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 CONTENTS

March 2019

64 EDITOR’S LETTER
68 CONTRIBUTORS
78 VOGUE VAULT
82 VOGUE VOICE

Viewpoint
84
CHECK THIS
Do away with fusty heritage fabrics and enter
the brave new world of checks.

94
ANYTHING GOES
The fashion landscape is more liberal and
egalitarian than ever before.

104
Snapshot: Fresh crops; Forever young; Special
delivery; Curated by: Jacqueline Rabun.

106
ALL ACCESS PASS
In the world of British singer-songwriter
Charli XCX, generosity, inclusiveness and having
a good time are just as important as making music.
110
Angourie Rice wears a Burberry top and skirt. Tiffany & Co.
earrings. Make up from Burberry, starting with Fresh Glow Gel WEAR IT WELL

V O L L X I V N O 3 W H O L E N O 6 5 7 * R E CO M M E N D E D P R I C E
Stick Foundation in Porcelain; on eyes, Complete Eye Palette in Classics, remixed: that’s how the current
Rose; on brows, Effortless Eyebrow Definer in Barley.
Adut Akech wears a Fendi dress. Van Cleef & Arpels rings. generation approaches wardrobe staples, giving
Make up from Burberry, starting with Fresh Glow Foundation in
Deep Brown; on eyes, Eye Colour Silk in Pale Barley and Bold Lash
them new life. In the spirit of our issue, we
Mascara in Ebony; on lips, Lip Velvet Crush in Honey Nude. gathered fashion originals to give us their
Amy Shark wears a Celine dress. Georg Jensen earrings and rings.
Make up from Burberry, starting with Fresh Glow Foundation in fresh takes on the essentials.
Ochre; on eyes, Eye Colour Glow in Shell and Bold Lash Mascara in
Ebony; on lips, Burberry Kisses Lipstick in Nude Pink. 112
ARTY TYPES
Stylist: Kate Darvill
Photographer: Nicole Bentley While fashion shies away from deeming itself art,
Hair: Victoria Baron its expressive nature sparks its own masterpieces.
Make up: Koh
Manicures: Jessica Diez This season, creative outpourings take fine form.

44 MARCH 2019
i
i
it starts with a dream
 CONTENTS

March 2019

115 Beauty
SPRING INTO ACTION
146
Vogue combs the spring/summer ’19 collections
TRY IT ON
for green shoots of sustainability.
Welcome to beauty, 2019-approved, where
118 it is as experimental and punchy as it gets.
BRIGHT LIGHTS, BIG CITY Time to colour outside the lines.

146 As they release 03 Street, Wardrobe.NYC

founders Josh Goot and Christine Centenera
154
FACE TUNE
talk about designing their uniform for
Find that filter-perfect life away from your
modern urban life.
phone with these saturated colours and
superhuman skin enhancers.
Arts 156
130 FLYING COLOURS
THE ART OF FASHION Cherry-picked by superstar Rihanna
During her inaugural visit to Australia, Dame to be global make-up artist for Fenty Beauty,
Anna Wintour discussed the importance of Priscilla Ono reflects on its runaway success
fashion exhibitions and art, and what makes less than two years on.
her cry, with her good friend Baz Luhrmann.
160
134 MEET YOUR NEW MUST-HAVES
THE GRADUATES In collaboration with Gelcream, Instagram’s
Vogue canvasses a selection of young voices who favourite beauty reviewer, we assembled the
talk candidly about the issues they face and their best beauty products to try now.
plans for a brighter future.
162
139 ELECTRIC FEEL
BALANCE OF POWER Can the sensations triggered by a whispering
In celebration of International Women’s Day and voice, the sound of gentle rain or vision of

P H OTO G R A P H S : ZO LTA N TO M B O R E D WA R D U R R U T I A
as Australia prepares to go to the polls, Vogue someone folding towels really reduce anxiety
speaks to three MPs about what it’s really like and even cure insomnia?
to be a woman in politics. 164
I L LU S T R AT I O N : C H R I S T I N A Z I M P E L

142 THE PSYCH-BOT WILL

LIFE ON MARS SEE YOU NOW
Australian NASA geologist Abigail Allwood With an epidemic of isolation sweeping the
writes about what she hopes to discover on the globe, loneliness is creating a new economy.
Martian landscape when the agency’s rover Silicon Valley has prescribed AI as a treatment,
touches down next year. but how effective is it?

52 MARCH 2019
 182 CONTENTS

March 2019

Features Fashion
170 182
A-GAME STRANGERLAND
Model Adut Akech, musician Amy Shark and A wardrobe humming with the intensity of a
actor Angourie Rice seem remarkably relaxed new season’s yearning all packed with beautiful
for young women at the top of their game. Find summer frocks, a romance of sleeves and tiny
details, a print, a bow, all with the decadence
170 out why their success is only the beginning.
212 of dressing up.
RIDING THE WAVE 204
Having first set their sights on global SUPERSIZE ME
success, Song for the Mute designers Melvin Women of the world: take up space! Don’t ask
Tanaya and Lyna Ty are now celebrating permission! The time is now, so jump into the

their Australian identity. jumbo-sized delights of spring/summer ’19

228 in bold strokes of style greatness.

GENERATION NEXT 216

Meet our future: pioneering Australian creatives,
ON THE UP
Fashion straight from the spring/summer ’19
disruptives, visionaries, innovators and original
runways, worn by the models who are the ones
thinkers leading the way and effecting change
to watch – it doesn’t get fresher than this.
in fashion, beauty and culture.
236
GOTTA HAVE FAITH
Voyage
244
Against a backdrop of growing agnosticism,
BAY AND BEYOND
212 Pentecostalism continues on a heady ascent
with Hillsong the headline act.
If you look past the glossy logos and quaint cable
cars, you’ll see the true enterprising spirit of San
238
Francisco lies in its emerging cultural pockets.
INTO THE LIGHT
Riccardo Tisci’s first collection for Burberry

L E VO N B A R D N I CO L E B E N T L E Y E M M A S U M M E RTO N
taps into his own formative experiences
247 SOIREE
as a young fashion student in London 251 HOROSCOPES
to celebrate the best of Britain. 256 LAST WORD

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56 MARCH 2019
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 Edwina McCann
Editor in Chief editor@vogue.com.au

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Ma na g i ng E d it or L OU I S E BRYA N T

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CONTRIBUTORS
A L IC E CAVA N AGH ( Pa r i s) V IC T OR I A C OL L I S ON (S p e cia l P roje c t s E d it or) PI PPA HOLT ( L ondon) N ATA S H A I NC H L E Y ( Fa sh ion)

EDITORIA L ADMINISTR ATION AND RIGHTS

D ig it a l A s s et s a nd R ig ht s Ma n a ger T RU DY BI E R N AT D ig it a l A s s et s a nd R ig ht s C o ord i n at or K AT R I N A T R I N H

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He ad of Bra nd St rat e g y, St y le M E R RY N DH A M I (02) 92 8 8 10 9 0. He ad of D ig it a l C om mercia l St rat e g y, St y le A M A N DA S PAC K M A N (02) 8 0 4 5 4 6 5 8 .
NS W Group S a le s Ma na ger C H E Y N E H A L L (02) 8 0 45 4 6 67.
NS W Key Ac c ou nt Ma n a ger s K AT E C OR BE T T (02) 8 0 4 5 47 3 7. CAT H E R I N E PAT R IC K (02) 8 0 4 5 4 613 . K R I ST I N A K A R A S S OU L I S (02) 92 8 8 174 3 .
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Ad ver t i si ng Cre at i ve D i re c t or R IC H A R D M C AU L I F F E He ad of Cre at i ve O p erat ion s E VA C HOW N

Ad ver t i si ng Cre at i ve P ro duc er s S A R A H M U RY CA N DIC E S H I E L D S
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P ro duc t ion Ma na ger M IC H E L L E O ’ BR I E N Ad ver t i si ng P ro duc t ion C o ord i nat or ROBY N N E BE AVA N

G enera l Ma na ger, R et a i l S a le s a nd Ci rc u lat ion BR E T T W I L L I S Su b s cr ipt ion s Ac q u i sit ion Ma na ger GR A N T DU R I E Su b s cr ipt ion s R et ent ion Ma na ger C RYSTA L E W I NS

G enera l Ma n a ger, D ig it a l ST UA R T FAG G

He ad of P ro duc t D e sig n A L E X FAW DR AY D ig it a l D e sig ner Y E A R A C H A H A M

Ma rket i ng D i re c t or DI A N A K AY Ma rket i ng Ma na ger Bra nd a nd Su b s cr ipt ion s M AGDA L E N A Z A JAC Bra nd Ma na ger R AC H E L C H R I ST I A N
Ma rket i ng Ma na ger, Pa r t ner sh ip s a nd Event s N ATA L I E H E A DL A N D S en ior Event s Ma n a ger DA N I E L L E I S E N BE RG
Event s Ma na ger GE N E V I E V E M C CA S K I L L Ma rket i ng C o ord i nat or S H E L BY A L L E N

D i re c t or of C om mu n ic at ion s S H A RY N W H I T T E N
G enera l Ma n a ger, New s P re s t ige Net work A N DR E W C O OK
Publisher, News Prestige Network NICHOLAS GR AY

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P r i nt e d by O vat o P r i nt P t y Lt d . Pa p er f ibre i s f rom s u s t a i n a bl y m a na ge d fore s t s a nd c ont rol le d s ou rc e s .

60 MARCH 2019
The Art of Living
 VOGUE

Editor’s letter

A
t Vogue, we are always looking forward to what we
will be wearing next season, along with who we will
be watching, listening to, admiring, reading and
being inspired by. That’s one of the best things about
my job, and as I get older my appreciation and
admiration for younger generations only grows. Youth can get a bad
rap, and yet they are the ones to whom the future belongs and who
will drive us towards it.
We have dedicated this March issue to the next generation of talents,
who, as our cover states, are “setting the agenda”. We celebrate Amy
Shark, who was highly awarded at the ARIAs, where her debut album
Love Monster won her album of the year, along with best female artist and
best pop release. We have also selected Angourie Rice, who had a star
turn here in Ladies in Black, a uniquely Australian story and a welcome
return to her homeland after debuts in Hollywood films like The Beguiled.
And we also have Adut Akech for our March cover – her second in her
career so far, which speaks to her fashion superstardom. These three
women are what Australia is now – and where we should be going.
Within these pages we have featured people who embody the spirit
N I CO L E B E N T L E Y

of irreverent youth: creatives, disruptors, visionaries and innovators,

regardless of age. There’s Riccardo Tisci and his debut collection at
Burberry (see page 238), and Abby Allwood of NASA making a return
to these pages (on page 142). Then there are the designers behind ¤

64 MARCH 2 0 1 9
 VOGUE

Editor’s letter
Dame Anna
Wintour and
Edwina McCann
at the National
Gallery of
Victoria.

the label Song for the Mute (see page 212), who were among the group
of designers selected by the Australian Fashion Council and Vogue
to present to and meet Dame Anna Wintour during her visit to
Melbourne earlier this year. She kindly gave her time to be in
conversation with her close friend Baz Luhrmann, which we have
documented for this issue (from page 130). Wintour also donated two
key Chanel looks from her wardrobe to the National Gallery of
Victoria’s permanent collection. To see these pieces in person is to
appreciate the intricate detailing, but also to realise the importance of
having such collections and shows to encourage us to dream and be
creative beyond what we immediately know.
Looking forward, we investigate how artificial intelligence (AI) can
address loneliness (from page 164), and, ahead of International Women’s
Day this month, we speak to three female politicians about what it’s
really like to be a woman in politics – red heels and all (see page 139).
Finally, I am pleased to announce the first Vogue reader survey. It is
our chance to understand you and what you want to see and read in
Vogue across our various platforms. P
to let us know what you think. Reade
the chance to win one of 40 Prada C
wait to hear from you.

o Vogue.
.au/survey for
LU C A S DAW S O N

r chance to win
of 40 Prada
dy Gloss
EDWINA MCCANN EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ml fragrances.

66 MARCH 2 0 1 9
VOGUE

Contributors

YANA
SHEPTOVETSKAYA
Since launching in 2016,
Gelcream, the beauty go-to
Instagram of LA-based Yana
Sheptovetskaya, fast amassed a

EMMA KATE BOYD cult following. For the influencer

and former fashion editor, the JAN FRAN
“I’d just flown in from New York,
so the first jet lag move was a dip
in the ocean … I didn’t care how
JOE BRENNAN invitation to collaborate with
Vogue on a beauty story for this
Journalist, SBS TV presenter and
Sexism and the City podcaster
Sydney-based photographer Joe
issue came a delight and surprise. Jan Fran deep-dived into what
cold it was!” says model Emma Brennan, who captured a group
“It makes me so happy to be makes young people tick,
Kate Boyd of her first fashion of young creatives for ‘The
connected with all parts of the interviewing our three cover
shoot for Vogue Australia, graduates’, from page 134, says he
world,” she says. And what’s stars for the story ‘A-game’,
photographed in Currarong, finds joy in the freedom of
the secret to her unique style of from page 170. Describing
New South Wales – see page expression his profession allows.
’gramming? “I always think what her impression of the women,
182. Working with wildlife such “Not yet having figured yourself
I would like to see and start she notes: “They all seemed very
as a kangaroo, kookaburras and out keeps you from being tied
from there. I am into a simple gracious, grateful and keenly
a snake was a fun experience for to particular aesthetics or
yet beautiful presentation, aware that things come and go
the Kiwi beauty – “the baby roo expectations,” he explains. “It
informative content and and know not to get too attached
Bella was a charmer” – and the gives you room to explore, to
easy flow. I enjoy sharing my to anything.” With a theme
job ended up being one of her be ambitious and to fail among
experiences, both good and in this issue being ‘original
favourites. “I had a great team loved ones.” Brennan shared
bad.” See the results of the thinking’, we asked Fran what
to work with and I felt like the excitement of his subjects
collaboration on page 160. sums up the concept for her.
I was on a getaway with friends on the set of his first shoot for
– animals included!” “I was once given a good piece of
Vogue Australia, who were all
advice that has stayed with me,”
around his age, and was grateful
she says. “Be aggressively you.”
for the chance to shine a light on
young creatives all eager for the
opportunity to prove their worth.
N S TA G R A M . CO M / E M M A K AT E B OY D
C H R I S LO U T F Y N I C K W I L S O N

68 MARCH 2 0 1 9
VOGUE

Contributors

JOHANNES LEAK
RICHARD CLUNE
Political cartoonist Johannes Leak

FLIP PRIOR
illustrated our feature on women
Having worked on a feature on in parliament, ‘Balance of power’,
the millennial appeal of the on page 139. Of the gender “It’s great to know that other
Hillsong church, GQ associate imbalance in Australian politics, people are interested in my
editor Richard Clune says it he says: “My impression is that current quest to help make our
was heartening to be able to the world of politics is generally a communities feel more connected
contribute to this month’s issue. pretty bruising environment. Any and friendly,” Flip Prior, a
“This is a fabled and respected
title that continues to set a strong
JOSH GORDAN woman who wants to embark on
a career in politics because she
Sydney-based journalist and
content strategist for the ABC,
Trekking out to Currarong for a
agenda,” says the Perth-born, Vogue fashion feature was a first wants to make the world a better says of her first person-essay on
Sydney-based journalist and for Paws on Film animal handler place must be encouraged and page 82. Writing about her
author. Of his Hillsong Josh Gordan, who arrived with supported wholeheartedly.” As friendship with her 75-year-old
experience, Clune admits he marsupials and reptiles in tow. a next-gen artist, Leak describes neighbour Kevin (pictured
walked away with an unexpected “To see what goes on behind original thinking as “challenging above), she touches on the
appreciation for what the church the scenes of one of these shoots commonly held beliefs in order to advantages of bridging age gaps
has to offer. “Despite much of was fascinating,” he says. “As shine a light on an issue to reveal and expanding your circle of
what has been written about someone outside the industry an aspect that others haven’t friends. “I think everyone
financial gain and tax avoidance, I didn’t actually understand the thought of or discovered yet … benefits from stepping outside
the lasting impression is that of amount of teamwork and hours I believe that it’s much better to their bubble and making friends
an honest desire to elevate people that go into a project.” Passionate be daring and outspoken than it with people from different
via some very positive and about “everything animal” since is to be safe and predictable.” generations,” says Prior. “Our
updated Christian messaging.” early childhood, Gordan’s career differences make for interesting
See page 236 for the story. path has seen him work across conversations; we have a lot
all facets of animal care. The to teach each other!”
most enjoyable part of his job?
“Being able to educate the public P H OTO G R A P H S : M A R Y L LOY D S COT T S T R A M Y K
and contribute to endangered
species breeding programs.”
I L LU S T R AT I O N : J O H A N N E S L E A K

70 MARCH 2 0 1 9
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74 MARCH 2019
 VO G U E VAU LT

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78 MARCH 2019
 VOGUE VOICE

Social network
How do you start cross-generational friendships and build a
friendly community from scratch in the process? Journalist Flip
Prior, 40, and her neighbour Kevin Caulton, 75, show how it’s done.

M
oving into my own apartment after years of sharing was Last year, the Loneliness Report by Swinburne University and the
a huge relief; no more arguments over whose turn it was to Australian Psychological Society found almost half of respondents
clean the kitchen or nights spent consoling housemates reported not having neighbours to call on for help and that two in five
crying hysterically after being dumped. see their closest neighbour less than once a month.
Instead, I’d get home from work, kick off my shoes and revel in the With more Australians than ever living alone or locked away in
quiet solitude – for a while, at least. After a year of quiet bliss, slight apartments, pleasant incidental interactions with neighbours are
loneliness started to set in on nights spent by myself. becoming way too rare.
Through the walls, I could sometimes hear neighbours watching the Having benefited from our own friendship, Kevin and I started
same TV shows and wondered: were they also watching alone and plotting: could we help other neighbours get to know each other and
fancied company? create a friendly community in our building? As it turns out, we’re
Despite living in such close proximity, I didn’t even know any of their a powerhouse social organising committee of two.
names – I was hardly in a position to knock on their doors and invite With great anticipation, we convinced Charlie to open the bar early
them around. and stuffed flyers for our first Meet the Neighbours event into people’s
The only time we encountered each other was in the lift, on the way mailboxes. We asked our neighbours to imagine living in a building
to work or laden with shopping bags, when we would mutter hellos and full of friendly people willing to look after their pets if they were away,
stare at our feet until we creaked to our respective floors. That was, help them if they were locked out or even just go for a drink with if
until I met Kevin Caulton. they were bored.
One afternoon in 2018, I was in the gin bar across the road, waiting for Kevin and I arrived way too early on the big day, reasoning that if
a friend and chatting to the barman, Charlie, when he no-one turned up we’d at least have each other for
introduced me to the older man on an adjoining stool. company. But soon the first neighbour poked their head
As we got talking, Kevin and I soon realised we lived in “We’ve had nervously through the door – then another and another.
the same building and recognised each other but had to form a By the time our group finally rolled out at 10pm, at least
never actually exchanged a word. 15 residents had popped in and enjoyed themselves so
When I lamented to Kevin this was typical of my
Facebook much they ended up staying much longer than they
experience and I wished I knew my neighbours, he group to keep probably intended.
promptly invited me to a gathering of fellow residents track of our Since then, we’ve hosted a second well-attended soiree
and friends at his apartment. and a Christmas barbecue in the foyer, gently hounding
That Sunday, I turned up with a bottle of wine and, just
schedule” neighbours who wandered through to join us for a plate
like that, we became firm friends. of food.
On the face of it, our friendship might seem unlikely – I’m a 40-year- As I type, we’re organising a potluck dinner at Kevin’s and the fourth
old unfettered journalist with a propensity for late nights and he’s Meet the Neighbours; we’ve had to form a Facebook group to keep track
a 75-year-old former church minister and grandfather – but we have of our schedule.
found a lot in common. At each event, our ragtag bunch of 20- and 30-somethings mingle
Like me, Kevin likes to keep up with news, has an irreverent sense with neighbours old enough to be their parents and Kevin, who’s
of humour and can’t resist a good gossip. He’s a thoughtful become a grandfatherly figure to all of us.
conversationalist who brings a new and different perspective, making Becoming friends with someone from a different generation and
him an excellent companion for a coffee or dinner at one of our background – and even better, becoming co-conspirators in our
neighbourhood haunts. neighbourly quest – has been a very worthwhile experience for me and
When I go away his son will stay at my place and, in exchange, Kevin helped me feel less lonely at home.
will water my plants. But what about Kevin? Well, he told me: “It took no time to forget that
And while we both have busy social lives, on Monday nights we both I’m almost twice your age” and our friendship is “very refreshing”.
stay in to watch ABC and have started doing it together, taking turns to “I admire your enthusiasm for life and your energy … your appreciation
cook each other dinner. for the importance of community and that real friendships enrich
Having an older friend like Kevin has not only been good for my soul, your life.”
it’s also helped our other neighbours. I’m with you Kevin – it’s a real friendship, alright. ■

82 MARCH 2 0 1 9
V O G U E

V I E W
CHECK THIS
Do away with fusty heritage fabrics and enter the brave new world of checks. By Alice Birrell.

ST YLING PH I LI PPA M O RO N E Y
PHOTOG R APHS D U N CAN KI LLI CK

P O I N T
 IN THE FRAME

The rustic charm of a blouse in country

check frames the face and finds its
place in the urban environment if
accessorised just so. Try shrunken
glasses and tough jewellery.
Hermès top, $4,665. Lee Mathews top, $399.
Poppy Lissiman sunglasses, $125. Barrie
collar, $465. Cartier necklace, P.O.A.
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B

PRETTY PERFECT

A summery madras taps

into the print’s less
serious side. Kitsch with a
kick is trending right now,
so tune into ultra-feminine
DUNCAN K LL CK

vibes in bubblegum pink.

Michael Kors Collection dress,
$3,069. Calvin Klein 205W39NYC
shirt, $825, from Parlour X.

MARCH 2019 87
VOGUE V IEW POINT
WINNING SUIT
Checks and tartan have
made it through the decades,
so return to the era getting
airplay right now: the 80s.
Going all out keeps it young,
so clash Working Girl Prince
of Wales with street-ready
acid wash.
Miu Miu jacket, $3,700, and shirt,
$1,740. Christian Lomas jacket,
worn around waist, $700.

GRID-LOCKED

Push the three-piece suit to

a four-piece by including
accessories worn head-to-toe
to amp up the impact of
a smart grey pattern.
Bianca Spender jacket, $945, coat,
$1,095, and pants, $595. Chanel
backpack, $4,340, from the Chanel
boutiques. Camilla and Marc
shoes, $449, from David Jones.

88
 DUNCAN K LL CK
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B

MARCH 2019 89
 CAPPED OFF
Sunshine needn’t mean
polite straw toppers. Elect
for an off-duty cap in the
print of the moment and go.
Bec + Bridge top, $140. Bottega
Veneta top, $1,650, and shorts,
$3,190. Zara hat, $26. Mimco
bag, $249. Bassike tights,
$220. Fendi shoes, $1,100,
GRAPHIC
from David Jones. CONTENT

Impactful geometry is the

punchiest iteration of the
trend. Underscore its effect
with block colour accents.
Hugo Boss jumpsuit, $1,399.
Chanel top, $4,240, from the
Chanel boutiques. Bulgari
bracelet, from $8,900.
Versace shoes, $1,100.
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B
DUNCAN K LL CK

MARCH 2019 91
92
VOGUE V IEW POINT

MARCH 2019
DUNCAN K LL CK
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B
 STELLA MCCARTNEY S/S ’19
BALENCIAGA S/S ’19
ACNE STUDIOS S/S ’19
EMILIA WICKSTEAD S/S ’19

ESCADA S/S ’19

CHASING
If you’re going to go for
colour, this is the time to
really be going for it. From
marigold yellow to the kind
of blue only seen in
Australian skies, it’s not
a spring/summer ’19 trend
without an all-over dose
of a single tone.
 HOUSE OF HOLLAND S/S ’19
GUCCI S/S ’19

BALENCIAGA S/S ’19

GIORGIO ARMANI S/S ’19

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO S/S ’19

TREND REPORT
 GARETH PUGH S/S ’19

BALENCIAGA S/S ’19

MARC JACOBS S/S ’19
“FASHION ISN’T PIGEONHOLED INTO
A FEW KEY LOOKS OR STYLES”

SHOULDER
TO SHOULDER
With silhouettes of late
emphasising drama and volume,
our eyes have adjusted to expect
a top-heavy shape. Drawing from
menswear influences – but
oversized and exaggerated for
the runway – it’s a razor-sharp
entrée into one of the season’s
I N D I G I TA L

most powerful looks.

 REBECCA LEIGH S T. C O L L I N S L A N E , E M P O R I U M , C H A D S T O N E ,
S PR I NG/S U M M E R 19 CH ATS WOOD CH A SE , PACIFIC FA IR .
SA NDRO-PA R IS.COM.AU S E L E C T E D DAV I D J O N E S S T O R E S
 NEUTRAL
GROUND
Here’s a fashion trick
for all the ages: an outfit
in shades of beige is the
lazy (or extremely busy)
woman’s shortcut to
sartorial polish. And
there is variation within
the scope, from
Chanel’s lady-like
gold-flecked beige suit
set layered with gold
and pearls to Dion Lee’s
multi-textured beige
look of lace, knits
and crepe.
 ETRO S/S ’19
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK
“I wanted it to be super-refined, almost giving a
grunge, modern silhouette, but with all those delicate
elements … there’s a bit of a mystic feel,” said Julien
Dossena of Paco Rabanne’s critically lauded show. Cloths
that remind one of journeying – quilting, jacquards and
coin-embellished – were given a sophisticated rendering
with luxurious fabrics and sleeker lines.
CHLOÉ S/S ’19
 “THE INFLUENCES ARE COMING
FROM EVERY POSSIBLE DIRECTION”

LET THERE BE LIGHT

whispers of a gentler mood, spun into
threads of plissé pleated chiffons and silks
that float by on the runway. And in shades
that you might find at the dessert counter
– meringue-white, sponge-cake yellow and
pistachio – these are the counterpoint to,
well, let’s say the less positive forces that
are in play in the world at the moment.
MARQUES ALMEIDA S/S ’19
MIU MIU S/S ’19

BALMAIN S/S ’19

PROENZA SCHOULER S/S ’19

LOUIS VUITTON S/S ’19

VOGUE V IEW POINT

104
SNAPSHOT

Fresh crops
ST YLING PH I LI PPA M O RO N E Y
PHOTOG R APH D U N CAN KI LLI CK

G
ranted, they don’t have a place in every situation,
but with the right attitude the new wave of
abbreviated tops can communicate a youthful
elegance. Take Chanel’s delightfully logoed ‘CHA’ ‘NEL’
top and mini-skirt combination. The message here is to go
all out, as one can’t be worn, or indeed read, without the
other – the 60s Youthquake spirit lives on. To capture the
politeness-with-a-wink this time, match each abbreviated
top with a skirt (no cut-offs, please) – the understatement is
in the silhouette and little else. Real-world applications?
The beach bar and after-hours is where this look will sing.
From left: Amber wears a Chanel two-piece ensemble, $4,660, from
the Chanel boutiques. Gabriela wears a Miu Miu cardigan, $1,210, polo
knit, $1,210, skirt, $3,310, and briefs, $370. Olivia wears a Fendi top
and skirt, P.O.A. All models wear a selection of rings from Van Cleef
& Arpels, P.O.A. Manicures by Elise Archer; www.getnailedau.com.

MARCH 2019 105

 Bottom left: Gucci jacket, $4,820, and shoes, $2,465. Balenciaga skirt, $3,390. Calvin
Klein bodysuit, $60. Falke tights, $45. Bottom right: Gucci jacket, $4,820, and gloves,
$560. Balenciaga skirt, $3,390. Calvin Klein bodysuit, $60. On right hand: Bulgari rings,
$15,450 and $4,650. On left hand: Bulgari ring, $6,050. Hardy Brothers ring, $13,580.

“I realised my strength
is to really straddle
both pop and the world
of the underground and
kind of commit to both”

A ttempting to determine what defines a particular epoch while it’s still

underway is generally regarded to be a fool’s errand, but in the case of the
chaotic Noughties could just be possible. As we wind up the decade in 2019,
labels, boxes and prescriptive classifications seem passé right now, and so a talent like
“When I was really young I just wanted to be like Britney
Spears. I was obsessed with the Spice Girls; the real pop-
princess classics. Then when I got signed, I spent two years
playing underground raves and parties in London, so my
Charli XCX, whose work fits neatly nowhere, might just perfectly echo her own times. view on pop music had shifted a little bit,” says Charli, born
Sitting in the band room in Sydney’s Lansdowne Hotel in black Balenciaga knife Charlotte Aitchison, of the gigs she landed at age 16. (Her
boots, tailored black shorts and a white shirt and blazer, the LA-based musician is parents would ferry her to these, waiting outside various
recalling how she found her unique selling point right between two of those proverbial warehouse parties until 4am to pick her up.) “I was into
and maligned boxes. “I realised my strength, and not to sound cocky, is to really underground sounds and I was into a lot of French electro.
straddle both pop and the world of the underground and kind of commit to both,” she I was finding club kids really inspiring,” she says of the
says during what is a quick post-shoot lunch break. As if to accentuate this fact, she mythology surrounding clubs like Tunnel in New York,
spears a salad leaf with a fork in one hand and holds a pizza slice aloft in the other. Taboo in London and the scenes in the 80s and 90s. “Then
She’s due at a sound check later that afternoon with Taylor Swift, who chose Charli I signed to a major label and there was this conflict. At that
to support her at the close of her global tour. It comes off the back of the release of her point in time you were either pop or you weren’t pop.”
single 1999 with Australian talent Troye Sivan, following two releases in 2017, Number What she was unwittingly trying to do was upend a
1 Angel and Pop 2. Both came out as mixtapes, as opposed to the expected full-length genre, bringing in the sounds of London’s underground
commercial releases, and signalled her preference to work beyond the set framework. and giving them added cultural clout by challenging the
It is a predilection, she says, that has marked her career from the beginning. mores that had once so inspired her. Industry ¤

MARCH 2019 107

VOGUE V IEW POINT
At the Lansdowne Hotel.
Topshop jacket, $120.
Calvin Klein bodysuit, $60.
powerbrokers were trying to tell her what to do, but it
seemed such a gross infringement on her personal
“My Romance Was Born shorts,
$340. Hardy Brothers ring,
expression that she ignored them. “Things like: ‘You need favourite $9,699. Fendi boots, $1,690.

to brush your hair,’” she remembers record executives thing to do is

directing her. “They didn’t think of it as anything bad, but
I thought: ‘This is me. If you want a girl who brushes her
be a curator,
hair, go sign a girl who brushes her hair … If I go into a to bring in
room and agree with these people who have suggested the all these
same thing to other people, then I’m going to become like
everyone else. I don’t care if that makes me less successful.”
exciting
Interestingly, her first big singles were written for other people from
artists – Icona Pop’s I Love It in 2012 and Iggy Azalea’s Fancy different
in 2014. She gained solo notoriety that same year for Boom
Clap, on the soundtrack to The Fault in Our Stars. It seems
backgrounds
neatly symbolic of the values her generation is hopefully and make
becoming known for: a collaborative spirit, and togetherness music all
through music and the creative process. “My favourite thing
to do is be a curator, to bring in all these exciting people
together”
from different backgrounds and make music all together;
whether they’re from pop, whether they’re underground, Clockwise from top
whether they’re part of the LGBTQI community, whether left: her own sunglasses;
they’re straight, whether they’re whatever,” she says. Poppy Lissiman sunglasses,
$135; Poppy Lissiman
“I enjoy that melding of pop and people.” sunglasses, $125;
It’s no accident her style evokes this, too: some days she Karen Walker sunglasses,
$260; Poppy Lissiman
takes the stage in pearlescent transparent wide-legged sunglasses, $125;
pants and platforms; on others she dresses to go out in Gucci sunglasses, P.O.A.
fluorescent tracksuits and tie-dye T-shirts.
Where once Leigh Bowery and Commes des Garçons
informed her love of volume in clothing, now, much like
her music, it’s about showing up as herself. “I remember
when I was 18, I got really into Vivienne Westwood,
especially all of her Sex era stuff, and was going through
that phase of questioning my body, like: ‘Do I look okay?
Am I thin enough? Am I curvaceous enough?’” she says,
shaking a lick of sleek black fringe out of her eyes. “Vivienne
Westwood’s clothes have always celebrated women and the
way they are, the bodies they come naturally with. She
makes everybody into a punk goddess. Now I always have
a sort of messy edge to me; I’m always the girl who falls
over or accidentally fucks up in the picture. I’m not Prada dress, $5,980. Hardy
Brothers bracelet, $12,499.
a supermodel and I’m just like whatever, that’s me.“ Tiffany & Co. rings, from $8,700.

FRESH TALENT
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B
Charli XCX’s pick of next-gen designers from her native country.

1 2 3 4
MIMI WADE MOLLY GODDARD CLAIRE BARROW ASHLEY WILLIAMS
British-American Mimi Five years in, Molly Experimental with a Joyously eclectic, Ashley
Wade’s creations are known Goddard has had a punk-ish DIY mien, Claire Williams has developed
for their subversive-meets-sweet recent extra boost to her profile Barrow’s pieces read more like from a ‘one-to-watch’ to an
feel (swinging decidedly heavily via that pink dress in Killing Eve. art, a discipline she works in just essential show at London
JAKE TERREY

toward the former). Fans include She’s expanded on her signature as much as fashion. Think bustier fashion week. The six-year-old
Lady Gaga, Lana Del Rey and tulle of late with neat daywear dresses, hoodies and bodysuits label is known for mash-ups
Princess Nokia. separates to win more fans. etched with her unique drawings. of vintage-inflected prints.

108
Left: Gucci shoes, $2,465.
Above: Cooper jacket, $599.
Right: Rebecca Vallance dress,
$549. Tiffany & Co. rings, from
$8,700. Poppy Lissiman sunglasses,
$145. Hardy Brothers bracelets, on
right arm, $6,299 and $39,499, on
left arm, $12,499. Below: Tridente
top, P.O.A. Miu Miu pants, $820.
Poppy Lissiman sunglasses, $125.
Her own Maison Margiela shoes.

POP STYLE

Clockwise from top

left: Lonely cardigan,
$300; Reliquia hair
clip, $35; Karen
Walker sunglasses,
$260; Amina Muaddi
shoes, $1,405; Dion
Lee skirt, $590;
Fenty Beauty
Killawatt Freestyle
Highlighter Duo in
Ginger Binge and
Moscow Mule, $50.

MARCH 2019 109

VOGUE V IEW POINT

N E W WAYS W I T H

Wear it well
Classics, remixed, that’s how the current
generation approaches wardrobe staples, giving
them new life. In the spirit of our issue, we
gathered fashion originals to give us their fresh
takes on the essentials. Interviews by Alice Birrell.

HOW TO DO

BY MAYA YEMANA, MODEL

It’s not about cost: “The majority of my clothes
are hand-me-downs from my mum or second-hand
stores. I don’t think you need to spend a lot of money
on clothes to have good style.”
Search for: ”Comfort and colour. If it’s a T-shirt,
I look for something rare. I honestly don’t discriminate;
if it catches my eye, it’s a winner. I don’t care if it’s for
a guy or girl.”
Feel your way: “How I’m feeling that day and the
weather mainly influence how I dress. If I go to
a casting, they usually have clothes to try on, so it
doesn’t affect my get-up.”
The added extras: “For a T-shirt I’d say it’s about
accessories. Just put on some rings, some cute
earrings and maybe some lip gloss.”
The favourite: “It’s hard to chose just one, as most
of them hold sentimental value. I do love this one tee
with Tupac on it. It’s really oversized, so you wear it as HOW TO DO

BY ZOË KRAVITZ, ACTRESS AND MUSICIAN

Repetition is key: “I have a pair of classic studs and a small pinky ring which
I wear almost every day. These are kind of, you know, the classic pieces you always
have. Then I have a beautiful [Tiffany & Co.] flower necklace, which is a little more
of a statement piece; I don’t wear it every single day. With earrings … I leave mine
in for days at a time. I guess they’ve grown to have meaning, because I’ve worn
them every day for the past couple of years.”
Keep a long view: “When you invest in a piece of jewellery you want it to be
something that you can have forever and that you can wear forever. If you are going
to spend money to buy a pair of earrings or a ring, you still want to love it in a
few years’ time.”
Treat yourself: “You don’t have to wait for someone to buy you a gift: you can
always go and buy your own, if you want.”
The favourites: “The thing about Tiffany & Co. is that its stuff has always been
so classic and beautiful and chic and simple. I think it has allowed itself to grow
creatively. I think it’s playful and modern, but at the same time I think everything
does have this classic feel. When I was a kid, my father gave me the classic dog tag
[tag pendant] Tiffany necklace. I don’t wear it very often anymore, but that was a
very big deal for me when I got it, because it was something that all the girls at
school had. I just begged and begged for it. I think eventually I got it for my
birthday. That was like the one thing to have!”

110
 HOW TO DO
Marie Heyman
wearing one of
her many coats. BY ILKIN KURT, BRAND CONSULTANT
Fabric first: “The most important thing for
me is the material, fabrication. I have to feel
HOW TO DO
comfortable and nice, otherwise it doesn’t
matter how good the cut is. If the fabrication
BY MARIE HEYMAN, FASHION EDITOR, COSTUME MAGAZINE is good it will stay in my closet forever.”
Try a trophy coat: “At the moment I consider a coat a statement piece. Especially during Shop smart: “I would suggest
the winter: it’s the first thing you notice on a person’s outfit.“ understanding your body shape first. For
It’s about balance: “When the weather is rainy and cold, I settle for a classic down jacket interesting pieces, second-hand shops and
from the Danish brand And Less. It’s a very simple jacket, so I style it with a pair of knee- markets are the best. Online shopping gets
high boots and some colourful jewellery to spice it up. I’ll do the opposite of spicing up if easier these days as you can return pretty
I wear a statement jacket. Then I’ll tone my style down a bit, wear some loose jeans and much everything. I find SSense, RealReal and
simple boots, so it doesn’t get too crazy.” MyTheresa have a good selection.”
Search for: “Dries van Noten, Saks Potts and Marni are my three favourite brands when The favourites: “I have this amazing,
it comes to coats. If I’m looking for a budget-friendly coat I think Arket has a good selection.” very light velvet Gucci classic trouser from
The favourites: “My red check coat from Marni is my most treasured coat. I bought it in Tom Ford’s autumn/winter ’96 collection.
Milan years ago. It’s way too oversized and long for me, but I love it. I’ve never seen a jacket Right cut, right fabric, sexy and elegant,
like it and I will probably never get rid of it or tire of it, despite the fact I use it every time the modern and timeless. I also like all my
weather requires a transition jacket. Recently I bought a vintage Fendi coat. It is 20 years old Maison Margiela pants, I must admit, for the
but could easily be mistaken for a coat from the new season. I love finding pieces like that.” same reasons: comfy, timeless and elegant.”

HOW TO DO

BY JESSICA GOMES, MODEL, DAVID JONES AMBASSADOR

N S TA G R A M . CO M / A M J E S S C A G O M E S / M A R E H E Y M A N
ZO E I S A B E L L A K R AV I T Z / I L K I N K U RT / S H E D AT S H AW T Y

Trick up the basics: “I look for good, quality tailoring and something that I can throw over
anything that will look chic and effortless. I don’t typically stray from a good statement black
blazer. It would have to have something different about it to separate it; a mix of fabrics and
textures, lapel details, buttons or double-breasted.”
Shop around: “David Jones has a great range: it’s worthwhile investing in a Saint Laurent one.
Maje and Sandro do good cuts, as do Australian brands like Camilla and Marc and Ellery. I also love
a thrift-store find in somewhere like Paris or Los Angeles.”
Go big: “I like to wear men’s-style blazers to give a bit more of an edge. My vibe is oversized
blazers. I love wearing a pair of ripped jeans, a white T-shirt and some boots with an oversized
blazer. It looks effortless but put together.”
The favourite: “I love my Dries Van Noten blazer. I think it is timeless and cool.”

MARCH 2019 111

VOGUE V IEW POINT
Prada skirt, $4,860.

TA K E N OT E

ARTY TYPES
While fashion shies away from deeming itself art,
its expressive nature sparks its own masterpieces. This
season, creative outpourings take fine, and wearable, form.

ART DIREC TION D IJANA MAD D I SO N ST YLING K AI L A MAT TH E WS

PHOTOG R APHS G EO RG I NA EGAN

112
 Above left: Dries Van Noten top, $915. Above right, from left: Respiro bags, $249, $229 and $279.
Below left: Balenciaga shoes from the spring/summer ’19 collection. Below right: Gucci necklace, $5,055.
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B
WORDS: AL CE B RRELL

MARCH 2019 113

TI C K E TS
O N SAL E
N OW
VAMFF.COM.AU
 VOGUE V IEW POINT

Mother of Pearl
spring/summer ’19.

BURBERRY S/S ’19

GABRIELA HEARST S/S ’19

From the Mother of

Pearl spring/summer
’19 collection.

Looks from
Nathalie
Ballout spring/
summer ’19.
J.W. ANDERSON S/S ’19
STELLA MCCARTNEY S/S ’19

S U STA I N A B I L I T Y

R ecycle, repurpose, reuse. The three ‘r’s formed a theme this season. Those
sexy, sporty, plunge-fronted floral playsuits at Stella McCartney? The ones
with the biker short legs? Not only did they make us want to renew our gym

Spring membership, but they’re made from Econyl. That is, a wonder yarn regenerated from
post-consumer waste in the form of old carpets, and abandoned fishing nets dragged
G E T T Y I M A G E S I N D I G I TA L

out of the ocean. Its producer claims the process slashes the global warming impact

into action
Vogue combs the spring/summer ’19
of nylon by 80 per cent.
Richard Malone also used Econyl this season, in skinny layering pieces worn under
the curvy, blooming volumes of his sustainable silk satin. In Milan, Econyl turned up
collections for green shoots. By Clare Press. on newcomer Tiziano Guardini’s runway – he won the Green Carpet Challenge ¤

MARCH 2019 115

VOGUE V IEW POINT

award for Best Emerging Designer in 2017. The latest winner, announced at a gala eco Still, it was Burberry that was named the leading luxury
event on the last night of Milan fashion week, was Gilberto Calzolari, who calls brand in the 2018 Dow Jones Sustainability Index. Not that
recycling “a moral imperative” and makes cocktail dresses out of old jute coffee-bean you’d know it from looking at Riccardo Tisci’s debut for
sacks. Oh, and that namesake carpet? You guessed it: woven from Econyl. spring/summer ’19. Its sustainability innovation is focused
Guardini called his spring/summer ’19 collection Sustainable Kit, and worked on back-of-house. They’re trying to go carbon neutral and
with a suite of new eco options, including a yarn made from renewable, biodegradable looking at new ways to recycle and reduce waste. They’ve
castor oil. He is a vegan who wants to minimise fashion’s harm to living creatures. also ceased burning unwanted stock and said no to fur.
His ahimsa silk (‘nonviolence’ in Sanskrit) is produced in India without the need to Anti-fur is a trend, but it takes more than that to constitute
bake or boil the silkworms in their cocoons in order to harvest the fibre. The moths a sustainable collection. Some opted to slow down and
flies away of their own accord, leaving the cocoons ready to be unravelled. reboot the artisanal, like J.W Anderson, who last season
McCartney is the best-known vegan designer, having eschewed leather and fur announced plans to reduce the number of collections he
ever since she started her brand in 2001. These days, she takes her cruelty-free shows, and this time pushed a hand-worked aesthetic
approach way broader. It was she who broke the news, just before Christmas, of the celebrating custom-weaves, embroideries and trims.
UN’s new Fashion Industry Charter for Climate Action, joining more than 40 Gabriela Hearst makes a virtue of high craft too, while Tome
companies aiming for net zero greenhouse gas emissions by 2050. has long celebrated artisanal collabs as a way to imbue
McCartney says spring/summer ’19 was her “most sustainable collection to date”. clothes with preciousness and longevity. This season, to
She focused on natural fibres: organic cotton, and sustainable linen and viscose in natural-dyed organic fabrics it added tassels made by
sorbet shades and tie-dyes. All the wood pulp for her viscose is sourced from refugee women who are rebuilding their lives in Texas.
sustainably managed forests in Sweden, while the fibre is produced in Germany, Vin + Omi ticked a lot of boxes: vegan, eco, upcycled. For
where chemical regulations are stringently upheld. its London fashion week show at Saint Pancras Station, they
fashioned clothes out of
old cans, a fabric derived
Backstage
at Tome. Anti-fur is from chestnut skins and
an eco-friendly latex
a trend, but made from sustainable
it takes more rubber. Accessories were
than that made from reclaimed
plastic waste as part of its
to constitute Bin 2 Body project. It was
a sustainable a conversation-starter,
collection but for some of these
pieces, one box remained
unticked: wearability.
Mother of Pearl nailed that, and furthered discussion,
too. If a smallish independent brand can pull off a
covetable, organic collection with a completely transparent
supply chain, and make it cheaper than its main line, as
creative director Amy Powney did with No Frills, what’s
stopping everyone else?
Millennials know fashion that lives more lightly on the
planet is the future. Emerging designers are turning more
trash into treasure. Like Dubai-raised Swede Nathalie
Ballout, who buys old, unwanted denim by the box-load,
redyes and recuts it into edgy-romantic collections that
belie their humble origins. Or Milan-based Londoner Bav
Tailor, who has sourced buttons made from cotton waste
and designs fish-leather jackets produced from skins that
would otherwise be thrown away. Or Swiss wunderkind
Kevin Germanier, who went home from Vogue Italia’s Who
Is On Next? showcase clutching an award from Swarovski,
TIZIANO GUARDINI S/S ’19

GABRIELA HEARST S/S ’19

RICHARD MALONE S/S ’19

bestowed for his work using dead-stock crystals. These he

G E T T Y I M A G E S I N D I G I TA L

dusts on sleek blazers, bustier dresses and upcycled jeans.

The results look dipped in coloured sugar. “Bring on the
glamour,” he said. “There’s a place for the eco slogan
T-shirt, but it’s not for me. I feel more likely to persuade
people to consider the issues by delighting them.” ■

116 MARCH 2 0 1 9
VOGUE V IEW POINT

DESIGNER PROFILE

Bright lights,
big city
As they release 03 Street, Wardrobe.NYC
founders Josh Goot and Christine
Centenera, in conversation with Alison
Veness, talk about designing their
uniform for modern urban life.
PHOTOG R APHS B I B I CO R N E J O B O RTHWI CK

H
ow has New York City changed your de
you both arrived there?
Josh Goot: “I’m not sure New York has c
I think it’s more about growing up, discovering y
believe in, and working differently within the ind
York encourages this kind of evolution – it gra
and opportunity.”
What are the essentials when you start to design
Christine Centenera: “We always start with a the
a particular mode of dress that relates to life in the
the quintessential items within the framework, th
– searching for the perfect article for each piece.”
Is each season hard to define?
JG: “From the outset we had a clear idea of the w
wanted to explore, and we’ve stayed true to our
been an intuitive process – I think because the W
come from an honest, personal place for Christi
relate closely to how we dress every day.”
To me, the soundtrack to your work would be
your ultimate soundtrack to this third season?
CC: “It’s been a while since I listened to Portishead,
this release listening to Massive Attack’s Blue Lines
You have worked with Jackie Nickerson and Bibi
How do you choose the photographers? What exci
CC: “We’re always looking for a realness in the
very fortunate to work with both Jackie and Bibi t
both have a raw truth to their pictures that I love.”
You have mastered the monochrome capsule war
use colour?
JG: “Part of our identity has become this rigour an
a minimal, practical, timeless statement. I think thi
with a community across the globe with shared aes
Who is the Wardrobe.NYC woman?
CC: “Our woman is independent, intelligent and
worldly, discerning and understands design and q
Did you always intend Wardrobe.NYC to be like a
JG: “We were always interested in this notion of uni
modern and logical – it makes sense for today. I th
true in New York, where life is fast and demanding
hard-working pieces in your wardrobe to see you thr

118
 “Our woman
is independent,
intelligent and
self-assured.
She is worldly,
A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B

discerning and
understands
design and
quality”
H A I R A N D M A K E- U P: S O P H I E R O B E RT S

Christine Centenera wears all Wardrobe.NYC

Release 03 Street collection throughout.
Opposite: shirt and pants. This page, top
left: bodysuit and skirt. Her own shoes. Left
and top right: shirt, puffer jacket and pants.
Her own earrings and shoes. Wardrobe.NYC
four-piece, $900, and eight-piece, $3,000,
from www.wardrobe.nyc.

MARCH 2019 119

VOGUE V IEW POINT

Forever young unencumbered with what’s come before,” says Cat Hocking, founder of e-boutique
Joan, which sells predominantly female labels with a view distinct from the mainstream,
such as Priscavera, Ashley Williams and Valet. “Fashion is the business of what’s new
Bold, optimistic, bravely expressive: and what’s next, and youth embodies those ideals perfectly.” Luecke calls it “beginners
youth is an essential ingredient for fashion’s mind”, and says, if encouraged, originality, honesty and authenticity emerges.
evolution. Alice Birrell looks at why we Jesse Lizotte, an Australian-American art and fashion photographer, believes some
need the kids now more than ever. of his best work was done as a skateboarder watching Larry Clark movies and listening

O
to punk before he had real experience. “When I transitioned from shooting my friends
f the great anthropological battles that have candidly into shooting fashion, I didn’t know the rules,” he remembers. “I like those
been fought, few have raged as long and as photos a lot, because they were pure and uninhibited, technically stripped back.”
rancourously as that between the old and the Then there are new talents like Matty Bovan and Marine Serre, whose wry
young. From the vast catalogue of mutual acrimony (see optimism is a response to their uncertain times. “I have a lot of conflicting thoughts,
recently: avocado economics), comes one from a 1964 a lot of unrest about the political climate we live in,” Bovan wrote in the show’s
edition of the Sunday Times Magazine. In the ‘Changing notes. “The only thing I can do in response to that is bang a drum, hard, for the idea
Faces’ article that aimed to link Mods with gang violence, of being yourself.” Hocking sees 2018 especially conducive to young creativity.
young members of the subculture took their right of reply. “I think the world is now so ruthlessly connected that these young designers need to
“We hope to be smart forever,” one was quoted. “Not push harder than ever for their originality to be noticed.”
shoddy like our parents.”
In a provocative sentence, the young modernist conveys
a sentiment that, once felt, has propelled youth away from
their forbearers and into exciting new realms of possibility.
The desire to break away from the off-the-peg lifestyle of
our parents has been percolating since the jazz halls of the
1920s, the rich post-war 1950s, and now a potent new wave
of youth energy is breaking over fashion, sending our
youth mania into an obsessive orbit.
We might be one of the few industries looking in the right
direction. In fashion, youth is exalted, not overlooked; prized
and pined after, not brushed aside in favour of experience;
and while some scratched their heads at the Oxford
Dictionaries’ choice of ‘Youthquake’ as word of the year 2017,
fashion (though we winced a little at the dated word) got it.
Building since then, designers have relentlessly mined
the communal aesthetics of the young – see the skate
moment from autumn/winter ’18/’19, now the surf tees,
tie-dye and loose slacks at Proenza Schouler, Calvin Klein,
Prada, Etro and Michael Kors. Then there’s die-hard Hedi
Slimane, now of Celine, who continues his long paean to
nightclub girls and boys in his latest men’s/unisex
collection filled with Ted-style creepers and butter-soft
bikers. In extreme it is Virgil Abloh’s documentation of
growing up in his newest campaign for Louis Vuitton
men’s that spans childhood, boyhood and adulthood.
But why are we so into what the kids are? “Vitality. The
urgency of youth,” says Greg Foley, co-author along with
Andrew Luecke of Cool: Style, Sound and Subversion (Rizzoli,
2017). “[They] pioneer new looks, but also reflect
contemporary culture back on itself,” says Luecke, who
points out its value as a mind-set, rather than an age group.
It’s the feeling of infinite possibility that Belgian
photographer Willy Vanderperre makes his subject and
describes youth as “an emotion, a breaking point”, as he
once told the Business of Fashion. “An opening of eyes.”
The idea that original thought can be accessed in youth
more easily before life’s prejudices and cynicism bear down
on you is shared by many. “A youthful outlook is one that is

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NEED IT NOW

ART DIREC TION D IJANA MAD D I SO N ST YLING K AI L A MAT TH E WS

PHOTOG R APH EDWAR D U R RUTIA

A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B
WORDS: AL CE B RRELL

124 MARCH 2 0 1 9
VOGUE CU LTU R E

An Acler dress and

Anna Wili Highfield
headpiece, on
display at the NGV.

Anna Wintour and Baz

Luhrmann with designer
Lyn Al Young, one of the “It is certainly inspiring to
11 designers chosen by
Vogue and the Australian all of us at Vogue to see the
Fashion Council (AFC) for
the Emerging Designer
dedication, the fearlessness
Showcase held after the
Q&A at the NGV.
and the spirit of the young”
exhibitions might often be intimidated by going into the
museum or don’t feel welcome for whatever reason. And

The art of fashion somehow the shows that Andrew [Bolton, head curator,
Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute] so
During her inaugural visit to Australia, Dame Anna Wintour attended brilliantly curates open the door to so many more people
a showcase of emerging local designers at the National Gallery of than might normally come. I remember for the Alexander
Victoria, and discussed the importance of fashion exhibitions and McQueen show, the response to that show was unlike
art, and what makes her cry, with her good friend Baz Luhrmann. anything. And on the very last night an elderly woman
came up to me, and I was signing a catalogue with her, and
BA Z LUHRMANN: “Welcome to the show, Anna.” I asked: ‘Where are you from?’ And she replied: ‘Mississippi.’
ANNA WINTOUR: “Thank you so much for having me, Baz. Such an honour.” And I said: ‘Thank you so much for coming and I hope you
BL: “We have a mutual friend, Miuccia Prada. At one stage I had to interview Miuccia didn’t have to wait too long.’ And she said: ‘Actually, I’ve
and asked her: ‘Do you think fashion is art?’ And she was very strong about saying: been standing in line for 12 hours.’ I burst into tears.
‘No, I don’t think it is.’ She’s very clear about not mixing artwork and fashion. So I mean, that’s why you put this work on. And if you can
I want to ask you, Anna, do you think fashion is art?” reach people in that way, it’s a very special experience.”
AW: “I want to disagree with you, Baz, because Miuccia has actually been showing BL: “Tell us about your support for emerging designers.”
the last two years at the [Prada] Fondazione, so she’s cracking. But, of course, I feel AW: “At American Vogue, we started a fund called the
that the best of fashion should be considered art, and over the many years that you CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund, which supports young
and I have worked together at the museum [New York’s Metropolitan Museum of designers in the United States, and it’s one of my favourite
Art], we see millions and millions of people agreeing with that.” initiatives. We usually have several hundred applicants
BL: “Yes.” every year and we select three winners and are able to
AW: “Heavenly Bodies was not only the biggest exhibition in the history of the Costume award them a large first prize of US$400,000, while the
Institute, it was the most attended exhibition in the history of the museum. And the runners-up get US$150,000. But I think what means the
LU C A S DAW S O N P H OTO G R A P H Y

reason they came to see it was because the costumes were placed in extraordinary most to all the finalists is that during the process they get
places like the Cloisters. But the pieces themselves were extraordinary, and when to meet so many people who then become mentors, and we
you went in to see the audiences looking at those pieces they were not drifting also offer them one year’s mentorship with an industry
through, they were standing there, they were studying, they were listening to the leader. It is certainly inspiring to all of us at Vogue and all
audio, they were looking at the captions, and they were completely engaged. And of us involved with the fashion fund to see the dedication,
I think if a costume can bring that kind of emotion to the audiences, of course you the fearlessness and the spirit of the young, and I think
have to consider it art. And the other thing is that people who come in to see these that this is so important for those of us who have been ¤

130 MARCH 2 0 1 9
VOGUE CU LTU R E

The designers who presented their work to the guests of honour during the
Wintour with Song Emerging Designer Showcase. From left: Lyn Al Young, Anna Wili Highfield,
for the Mute designer Chris Ran Lin, Amanda Nichols, Melvin Tanaya, Dellano Pereira, Anna Wintour,
Melvin Tanaya. Baz Luhrmann, Julia Ritorto, Kathryn Forth, Laura May Gibbs, Hannah Gibbs,
Marina Afonina, Maggie Hewitt, Blair Archibald and Lukas Vincent.

working in this world for a long time … to remember that AW: “So [you mean], has fashion got too mass? And how great is it that fashion is
it’s the young who lead the way.” available to everybody today? Well, what I love about the digital world is that fashion
BL: “So, when you’re looking at these submissions, when is coming from places maybe Baz and I would never have thought of 10 years ago. It is
do you go: ‘Right, that really is something’?” a global world of fashion now, and the influences are coming from every possible
AW: “We’re looking for originality in the portfolios. It’s how direction. So, from that side I think it’s extraordinary and creative and inspiring. When
they put the portfolio together, the thought, the time, the you look at the couture that was just showing in Paris – when you look at the
effort that has gone into it. Most of all, you’re looking for workmanship and the work of the women in the ateliers and how brilliant that is, and
a voice and something that is saying something different. the minds of designers like John Galliano or Karl Lagerfeld or Pierpaolo Piccioli …
And when you talk to professors of some of the great I think right now you have the best of all worlds, and how great is it that it’s not just
fashion schools, [they say] it’s important to look for talent coming from three cities? If you don’t believe in disruption, don’t work in fashion.”
that is willing to push and isn’t following what else might “What is the best thing our fashion graduates can do to separate themselves from the herd
be out there – they have their own point of view.” when applying for jobs?”
Questions from the audience: AW: “I would make a list of the designers or the houses you admire and people you
“What was the most influential piece of information that admire and send those emails and portfolios. Attack it with confidence. And I also
someone gave you when you were growing up and coming advise students, if they are able, to look at working outside of the place they went to
through the industry that really affected how you progressed college. I think because we do live in a world that is so diverse and different, it’s
through the industry?” important to expose yourself to other cultures as much as you possibly can.”
AW: “My biggest influence was my dad [Charles Wintour}, “What are the audiences you think about and aim yourself towards? Because there are so
who was a Fleet Street editor. So, growing up in England our many ways to view fashion now.”
house was full of journalists and editors and politicians and AW: “Well, to be honest, you want to reach as many people as you possibly can, but
people from the cultural world, so that was just the most I don’t think that one has somebody specific in mind. Andrew is putting out a vision
inspiring upbringing anybody could possibly have and and a point of view and obviously hoping that people will come. I think if you create
LU C A S DAW S O N P H OTO G R A P H Y

I never had any doubt that that was a field that I wanted to simply for an audience you will fail. You have to create with a vision first, and then
enter. My dad was a very decisive editor and he would they will come.”
always say to me: ‘Never, never let anyone show your doubts; ”What would you like see changed in current contemporary fashion?”
just make a decision. And even if you reverse it the next day, AW: “I think we’ve made great strides in the past few years towards more diversity in
it’s fine.’ I think that is something I’ve always kept in mind.” fashion, but obviously I feel we have a long way to go. I would like to see more
“Do you believe that the democratisation of fashion dissemination designers of colour, more models of colour on the runway and elsewhere, and I would
is helping or hindering the fashion industry?” like to see acceptance of people from all backgrounds, preferences and opinions.” ■

132 MARCH 2 0 1 9
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On sustainability …
The graduates A SHWIN CHARI, 25, FA SHION DE SIGN AT THE LONDON COLLEGE
OF FA SHION:“I have no idea what kind of world it’s going to
Vogue canvasses a selection of young voices be in 50 years, because of what previous generations have
who talk candidly about the issues they face and their done to it. That’s a serious factor in how I’m planning my
plans for a brighter future. By Danielle Gay. life. Things we take for granted … and sustainability …
I think that’s a huge thing. I think [it is] probably the most
PHOTOG R APHS J O E B R EN NAN preeminent problem that I’m worried about.”

C
ANGEL A LOWE , 32, FA SHION DE SIGN AT TAFE NSW: “I think
hange is in the air. A new generation of talent is coming through, bringing [we] are so much more aware of the environment, and
with it new thoughts, feelings, expectations and values to the doorstep of fashion, and what is going on. I think everyone’s now
fashion and the creative industries. This new guard is emerging in the pushing to be a bit more sustainable.”
middle of a massive movement of change regarding diversity, equality and sexual LE AH MUSCH , 28, BACHELOR OF BR ANDED FA SHION DE SIGN AT
identity. They are pursuing creative careers in the age of social media and learning to BILLY BLUE COLLEGE OF DE SIGN: “It’s happening faster.
thrive in what has been coined a culture of comparison. They’re managing critical Even three years ago, when I started talking about this, a
issues unique to their industries, such as sustainability and mental health. And they’re lot of people didn’t really take it that seriously, and it’s only
fighting back, finding a sense of empowerment in their forward-thinking peers. Here, now that it’s shifting and people are starting to become
Vogue gathers eight young graduates from the disciplines of art, fashion, media and educated. I’ve been looking at trend forecasting; what’s
beyond, to discuss the worries and concerns they feel are unique to their generation going to happen in fashion in 2020. Clean air and clean
and how they plan to conquer them. Welcome to the future. water are going to be the next luxury items. When I think
about that, that terrifies me. But I still have hope.”
ANN XIAO, 25, BACHELOR OF FA SHION DE SIGN AT TAFE NSW:
“It takes time to even make a shirt. I think it’s about getting
the education out there, and letting people know it takes
time. We go from design to production to selling it, creating
the fabric, creating the different pieces by pattern-making
each individual flat piece that finally transforms into a 3D
form, which also takes a lot of trial and error. I think
knowing that allows people to understand it takes a lot of
care and a lot of time. It’s really important that people go:
‘Okay, I understand why that costs that much money.’”

On diversity …
LOC NGUYEN , 2 2, MEDIA ARTS AT THE UNIVER SIT Y OF NEW
SOUTH WALE S ART & DE SIGN: “I’ve heard talk about racialised
tensions, gender inequalities, sexual inequality as well, but
I think we’re also forgetting that all of those are
interconnected and it’s also very intersectional. So it’s hard
for us to just talk about a feminist movement or a Time’s
Up movement or a Black Lives Matter movement when all
those are connected and I think once we talk about one
movement without talking about another, we are already
talking about lifting up a certain type of person within
each movement. There’s a lot of different intersectional
oppressions and marginalisation within each and every
sector of identity.”
A SHWIN CHARI:“I feel diversity has opened doors to a whole
plethora of different people. We’re seeing all kinds of models
and artists and even LGBTQ culture is now so much more
prevalent in the world, and I think that’s a really good thing.”
ANN XIAO: “It’s exposure. If you don’t surround yourself with a
diverse group of people, you’re not going to understand. You
don’t hear their truth, their stories. So if you choose to stay
within a group that is oppressive, if your truth is oppressive,
you will never try to venture outside of that circle to try to
understand. I think it comes down to the political powers.”

134
On feminism and equality …
LUCIA HAWLEY, 20, ARTS AT THE UNIVER SIT Y OF SYDNEY: “I looked at the Oscar
nominations and there are no nominations for female directors. There was that
10-year challenge, it was 2009 – no female directors nominated – and then 2019,
no female directors nominated. It’s like there’s still not that much change being
made, and we’re seeing that. And it’s because it’s that power dynamic. When you
hear a minority speaking out and kind of pushing for change, [the majority] gets
scared and wants to hold that power and wave it over you. They’re scared that the
power dynamic might change and they’ll be put in a position of equality where they
can’t really put someone else down. I find the most upsetting thing is that we’re kind
of inching towards equality, and there are these people who are inching right back.”
C ARMEN GLYNN-BR AUN , 31, FINE ARTS AT THE UNIVER SIT Y OF NEW SOUTH WALE S ART
& DE SIGN: “Recently, my honours year artwork was about indentured servitude, skin
politics and how the assimilation policy has affected my generation. Aboriginal
women were stolen from their families and put through forced slavery … it was
designed to breed Aboriginal people’s bloodlines out entirely. There’s a real pressure
for my generation to forget our grandmother’s stories. I’m not going to do that. We
still face oppression on a daily basis, but it’s important to me we see transgenerational
resilience exists within our communities just as much as generational trauma.”
JE SSIC A XIE , 2 3, FA SHION DE SIGN AT THE UNIVER SIT Y OF TECHNOLOGY, SYDNEY: “I feel
like everyone should be a feminist. Not in that whole traditional sense, but I feel like
everyone actually is because we are talking about equality!”
ANN XIAO: “Focussing on the label of being a feminist … I think that’s what tends to
scare a lot of people, the label. I think you do stand for all those things. Because
feminism at the end of the day is just equality and being heard as an individual.”

On social media …
LE AH MUSCH: “I’m a self-confessed Instagram
addict. I post every day; I am always thinking
“Instagram
about it. It is incredible, because it has taken me is just a
all over the world. Even the reason I was able to technological
study my degree was through a scholarship I won
that I found through Instagram. So it’s been life-
tool. An object
changing and amazing, but at the same time or tool,
I have to be constantly aware of who I’m whether it’s
collaborating with and what I’m talking about,
because when I’m talking about ethical and
physical or
sustainable fashion, I can get ripped to shreds if virtual, is
I put one foot wrong.” neither
ANGEL A LOWE: “I think when I was younger I was intrinsically
so hung up about it. Now I’ve got three [Instagram]
accounts: one for my brand, one for me as a good nor bad.
designer and one personally. Now I utilise social It’s dependent
media so much more.” on the user”
LOC NGUYEN: “Instagram is just a technological
tool. An object or tool, whether it’s physical or
virtual, is neither intrinsically good nor bad. It’s dependent on the user and how we
use it. So it’s hard to say that social media is bad or good because it has a lot of pros
as well. It brings a lot of communities together. It has given a lot of people
opportunities to vocalise their thoughts and opinions. I don’t think there’s been any
other time before our current day where you could have a whole group of people
really express their thoughts and push forward movements with the sort of force
and the power that certain movements have today. But then there’s also that really
dark side where it does take over people’s lives. It can hold a very negative battle
for people and what not. So thinking about tools, it’s just at the end of the day, how
do you use it?” ¤

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On personal safety … our history that we just can’t avoid it. To say unintentional racism or to say: ‘I didn’t
JE SSIC A XIE: “Every time I go out, if I’m coming home at mean to be racist’ – I’m sure you didn’t mean to be racist, but it was. Ignorance is
night, I’m walking home afraid.” something that we have to really combat. If you are called out for anything, don’t try
ANN XIAO: “It’s behaviour that’s ingrained, I think it’s to argue against it. Take a step back and try to think about why you were called out.”
normal, that I need to be careful. Yeah, it’s super-frightening.” C ARMEN GLYNN-BR AUN: “I think a lot of people aren’t willing to hear it. They’re
LUCIA HAWLEY: “It’s like how we just make excuses for definitely not. I feel like art and fashion – any creative platform– is a safe environment
people. ‘Boys will be boys.’ There is always an excuse for for you to express those feelings … it’s a kind of freedom.”
them [the perpetrator], and not really for [the victim],
I guess. Let’s make a change.” On politics and being heard …
LUCIA HAWLEY: “In some ways, yes, we’re heard to a certain extent. But I think [for]
On racism … the whole younger generation, being in politics, it’s a turn-off.”
ANN XIAO: “The younger generation in general doesn’t ANGEL A LOWE: “There are a lot of the older generation in politics and they haven’t
accept ignorance as an excuse anymore.” experienced the things we’re experiencing now. They wouldn’t have grown up in a
JE SSIC A XIE: “We aren’t accepting racism anymore. People school with racism. They may not have known someone who was transgender.
from minorities are taking a stand and making their voices I think they just may not be aware or educated as much as the younger generation.
heard that they won’t stand for it. I think minorities are We have social media. We can access all of this information and therefore why
also proudly carving out an identity for themselves.” shouldn’t we be in places of power? Our age doesn’t matter. You know, we’re still
LOC NGUYEN: “It’s difficult for us to label racism as very educated and [there are] smart young people out there.”
unintentional, because whether or not you mean it, racism LE AH MUSCH: “I feel so disconnected and uneducated that in a way, I wouldn’t even
and any other form of oppression against any other know how to connect, because I don’t really know what’s true. I’ve taken my own way
minority is structural and it’s cyclical. It’s been built into of almost having no opinion about a lot of things, because I don’t know and I wish that
the lineage and history of our day-to-day life to the point it was easier to understand, but I don’t even know where to start or who to trust.”
where every single action we do, every single thing we say
has some level of racism, misogyny, like transmisogyny, On family life and buying a home …
built within it. This includes people who might belong to LUCIA HAWLEY: “I really don’t know how I will ever buy a house. I don’t know how
those marginalised groups, because it’s all so deep within that’s possibly going to happen.”

136
 The eight graduates
gathered for
a round-table
discussion in Sydney.

C ARMEN GLYNN-BR AUN: “It seems impossible even when you have a secure, normal On what worries them most about
job as well. It’s like on $60,000, you’re not getting a house in Sydney.” the future …
A SHWIN CHARI: “I remember when I was really young, my parents bought their JE SSIC A XIE: “Issues of sustainability and the growing
house, and when I was older, I came to realise they never thought they would be able amount of waste we are producing. I think it is important to
to afford a house. But I think it’s definitely doable. But who says you have to buy continue creating awareness surrounding this issue,
a house? Like since when is that a measure of your worth or success?” especially as heaps of people still don’t believe that it relates
JE SSIC A XIE: “That adds a little bit of pressure on you as well. I feel like, for me, I’m to them or believe they have no impact on change.”
always thinking: ‘I need to get a stable job … it would be great to save, to get a house, LE AH MUSCH: “I think that’s what we’re going to see in the
to get married.’ It’s still in my mind, even though it’s not what I want now.” future is that as us, as millennials, rise forward. That’s
ANGEL A LOWE: “When I got married, my husband wanted me to change my name when you’ll start seeing the change. Hopefully.”
completely. I did not. I hyphenated it. I love it. I think it’s fine if you don’t change your
name. Don’t get married. Have a baby out of wedlock. Who gives a shit? No-one.” On what they’re most excited about
for the future …
On mental health … A SHWIN CHARI: “I’m excited to see where technology takes
A SHWIN CHARI: “I think it’s important to keep it a discussion. As creatives we all know us. How inclusivity and diversity develops over the next few
how turbulent it can get in your head. And just to not internalise that turbulence. If years. As our generation gets older and comes into power,
you’re upset that your work is not doing well, and you’re putting so much pressure on I think those actions will be cemented into our society more.”
yourself, and you keep having those negative thoughts, that’s how that spiral starts … C ARMEN GLYNN-BR AUN: “The more we talk about it, the
negative thoughts, negative actions and then inaction and then helplessness. I think stronger the education is going to be, and that’s where
talking about it stops you from falling down that drain, so it’s really important to keep I think it will change.”
a dialogue. I think for guys especially, that’s quite difficult.” LOC NGUYEN: “I’m excited for the change, but I feel like the
C ARMEN GLYNN-BR AUN: “I think we definitely need to train boys specifically from change can also start from the ground up.”
birth about feelings; that it’s okay to be sad; you’re allowed to cry, you’re allowed LE AH MUSCH: “There will be change. It’s just that we have
JOE BRENNAN

to talk about your feelings. And that’s again, structured from above.” to all live it too, not just expect somebody else in power to
ANN XIAO: “But I think there’s also a little bit of a stigma in the industry as well. do it for you.”
Where it’s like if you don’t have a little bit of crazy, are you really that creative?” LUCIA HAWLEY : “We are the change!” ■

MARCH 2019 137

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 VOGUE CU LTU R E

Balance
of power
In celebration of International Women’s Day
and as Australia prepares to go to the polls,
Jane Albert speaks to three MPs about
what it’s really like to be a woman in politics.

ILLUSTR ATION J O HAN N ES LE AK

Julie Bishop: federal Liberal

member for Curtin
2018 was a particularly awful year for many Australian
women in politics, including your treatment during the
leadership spill. How did you maintain your dignity?
“When faced with challenges, I believe you need to draw
on your inner reserves – self-belief and backing your
judgement. I was able to do that and was therefore
comfortable with the decisions I had to make in rather
difficult circumstances.”
You recently noted Australia’s standing in the world
ranking of female parliamentary representation has
fallen from 15th in 1997 to 50th. How did it get so dire?
“It’s a very adversarial environment. Behaviour that’s
tolerated in parliament, especially during Question Time
and particularly the personal abuse, would not be tolerated
in any other workplace. Yet it appears to be encouraged in
federal politics. Some of the women who’ve spoken out
recently have put a spotlight on the challenges. However,
I remain positive about the opportunities for women in
politics. Critical mass can help change attitudes, and I feel
sure women will want to be part of that effort. Fifty per cent
of the Victorian Labor cabinet is now female, demonstrating
that of course there are qualified women to fulfil these roles,
it’s just a matter of doing it.”
How do you redress the gender imbalance in Australian
politics? “It’s all very well to have discussions about
quotas, but if you don’t identify a pool of talented women
that talk amounts to little. I’m patron of an initiative of the
WA Liberal Party, Emergent Women, that focusses on
identifying women interested in politics, current affairs,
public policy and public debate. We invite them to
functions to meet other like-minded women, discuss On the day you resigned as Foreign Minister you wore a pair of eye catching red
current policy and gauge their interest in coming into heels. What was behind that decision? “Nothing as complicated as one might think!
politics. It’s a long-term initiative, but we already have 60 I always have a great pair of red heels and on that day I chose a rather sombre navy
young women involved and I’m confident we’ll see some jacket and dress and thought I needed to bling it up, so I put on a pair I’d been saving
of them being mentored for pre-selection or becoming for a special occasion. I wore them for myself, not to make a statement. Others saw
involved in the Liberal Party.” it as a symbol of female empowerment, strength and independence.”
How have you balanced being feminine and fashionable How do you feel about the next generation of female politicians? “We have
and respected in a highly judgemental environment? a number of talented women on both sides who I feel sure will continue to make a
“The concepts are not mutually incompatible. My view is significant contribution, but I’d like to see a significant increase on the Coalition side.
that public figures should set and strive to meet their own It’s important to portray the positive side of public office. You have to make sacrifices,
standards and be authentic. Each person knows what they but you also get to be part of and witness moments that become history. I would
can achieve. I try to be true to who I am. I’ve always been certainly encourage any women considering entering politics to give me a call and
interested in fashion and I see no reason to change that.” I can give them the unvarnished perspective based on my 20 years in politics.” ¤

MARCH 2019 139

VOGUE CU LTU R E

Linda Burney: federal ALP What are some of the areas you’ll discuss at All About Women? “It isn’t necessarily
member for Barton about the party we represent, but what it means to be a senior woman within the
2018 was a particularly awful year for many Australian political arena, and connecting and demystifying the political process. So many
women in politics. How do you look back on it? “I don’t people ask: ‘How did you get into politics?’, ‘Why would you do it?’ Politicians
see it as a dreadful year in terms of the party I represent – experience the same things other people do, it’s just a lot more public. I was
we have achieved almost 50 per cent female representation approached by a woman in the supermarket who said: ‘Do you actually do your own
in the federal parliament and there’s a commitment to grocery shopping?’ I replied: ‘I don’t know how else we’re going to eat if I don’t!’”
achieving that across the local, state and territory level as
well. I do think it’s been a difficult year for women in politics Sarah Hanson-Young: Greens Senator
more broadly, particularly when you consider the leadership for South Australia
spill and the fact that a number of women felt the need to 2018 was a particularly awful year for many Australian women in politics. How
speak out about being bullied.” do you look back on it? “It was a difficult, confronting year for quite a few women
What do you think of the next generation of female in politics, but it was also the year #MeToo came to parliament, and about time it did!
politicians? “I’m in awe of many of the younger people It was the moment I decided I’d no longer stay silent and ignore the gendered
putting up their hands, many with young families. Being a bullying and sexist put-downs. It was time to call out the bullies and the bad
politician isn’t for everyone: you miss watching your behaviour that too many women from all sides of politics cop on a regular basis.”
children grow up, the bumps and tears, and that’s very What needs to change, and how can we effect that change? “We need more women
difficult. For many young people entering politics it’s in politics, and to do that we have to confront the bad behaviour that’s keeping
important to have some life experience so you’re able to women out. The community is rightly angry at the appalling state of politics and the
empathise where people are coming from. The most bad behaviour that’s passed off as just being part of ‘political debate’. Calling it out
powerful advice I can give is: ‘Be yourself.’ Don’t try to and naming it is the first way we’ll start to change things.”
emulate what the blokes do.” You’ve been the target of sexist slurs during your time in politics. How do we
You’ve had to endure a huge amount of personal hardship ensure this behaviour stops? “By ignoring the bullying and sexist remarks and by
during your time in politics. How do you withstand underestimating women we give it space to get worse. We reached a pivotal moment
private grief despite your public role? [Burney’s son died in Australian politics last year. Now we need to listen and support those speaking out
suddenly in late 2017.] “It’s challenging. It’s about your and hold the bullies to account to make it clear their behaviour isn’t acceptable in
approach to life, having the capacity to see life for what it is, society or in parliament. I’ve been grateful for the outpouring of support I’ve received
its ups and downs. Part of the human condition is that we’re from decent Australians – men and women – who didn’t accept the slurs David
all born and we all die. It’s not always fair, but you can’t Leyonhjelm made about my character, people who know that bad behaviour and
approach things like that. I’ve got the most incredibly disrespecting women are simply inexcusable.”
supportive group of friends and family and an enormous Female politicians are constantly scrutinised for their appearance: you spoke out
capacity for resilience, but I understand that you don’t get against a particularly offensive media report last year. “Sexual innuendo and sexist
through things on your own. Don’t be afraid to ask for help.” taunts based on how a woman dresses, how big (or small) her boobs are or whether she
In 2003 you made history as the first Aboriginal person has had sex and with whom, is not okay. Some conservative media, like conservative
elected to the New South Wales Parliament and later the politicians, like to use their words as weapons, rather than contribute to a debate on
first Aboriginal woman to serve in the Australian House the issues. It isn’t always easy to cop sexism like this in your workplace and continue
of Representatives, two memorable precedents. “There’s to turn up every day, but I think of my daughter and the example I’m setting for her
been some astounding precedents set by other Aboriginal when I make the decision to call out the bullies. We need to pave the way for the
women serving in local and state government: Leeanne women who are coming after us, and that means navigating uncomfortable and
Enoch is doing an amazing job in Queensland. I spend a lot horrible situations.”
of time encouraging young Aboriginal people to pursue a How do you feel about the next generation of female politicians? “I’m in awe of the
political career. There aren’t many Aboriginal MPs, but young female political activists and volunteers who are driving action on climate
there are other ways to contribute to the political process. It’s change, fairness for refugees and vulnerable people and ending cruelty to animals.
really important to vote, but unfortunately many Aboriginal Young women who take time out of their personal lives to fight for a better world
people still feel they can’t, or don’t want to. It’s crucial we get give me hope the next generation will be a force to be reckoned with.”
every Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander person on the What advice would you give women considering entering politics? “Back yourself
electoral roll and voting.” and don’t be afraid to say what you think. Find female mentors and learn from their
You’ve been a passionate advocate against domestic mistakes and tribulations. Don’t be put off by the behaviour of a small group of
violence. How much progress has been made? “There are angry politicians who resort to sexism to try and win their battles. It’s time we
enormous lengths still needed. There have been so many replaced the angry old blokes with bright women dedicated to helping their
women murdered in the last few months alone. Domestic communities, and, together, start resetting the standards that better reflect our
violence is best dealt with at a local level, as local society, and the expectations of the community.”
communities have the answers, but we need more The Hon. Julie Bishop, Linda Burney and Sarah Hanson-Young will appear on the panel
resources so they have capacity to take ownership of this Leading While Female as part of All About Women at the Sydney Opera House on
issue. It needs to be seen as the crisis it is and a priority March 10. Former federal Liberal MP Julia Banks is a recent addition to the line-up. Go to
made to formulate a response.” www.sydneyoperahouse.com.

140 MARCH 2 0 1 9
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VOGUE CU LTU R E

Life on Mars
As the countdown to Mars 2020 begins, Australian NASA geologist Abigail Allwood writes about
what she hopes to discover on the Martian landscape when the mission touches down.

2019. Spring. Los Angeles. NASA geologist

six legs attached to the outside of PIXL, that
The vast city shrugs off its shawl of wintry Abigail Allwood. extend and retract in an impossibly complex
cloud banks and reveals itself sparkling clean pattern. As they move, they cause PIXL to
and briefly magnificent against its backdrop of scan the rock surface. It looks a bit like a six-
snow-dusted ranges. Nestled at the base legged white lunch box doing a slow, stick
of some of the steepest, gnarliest mountains is insect-like dance.
a cluster of deceptively plain-looking buildings. What is it all for? Nothing less than a shot at
Inside one particularly bland, beige, figuring out whether Mars once had life.
windowless building, in a very large clean PIXL‘s postage-stamp-sized chemical maps
white room, a spacecraft is being methodically will provide information that is a profoundly
assembled. The spacecraft, a six-wheeled, one- important part of the study of rocks, and any
tonne interplanetary rover, is destined for biological clues those rocks may contain.
Mars. This spacecraft must be ready for launch There are some rocks at our chosen landing
16 months from now: July 2020. On that date, site, Jezero crater, that I am particularly excited
the rover will hurtle toward Mars, where it will about. They are mineral deposits that formed in
set about unravelling the geological past and the shallows of a lake that filled the crater
searching for signs of ancient life, each day billions of years ago. Those minerals could have
performing a new batch of instructions from offered the perfect conditions for entombing
a home it will never return to. signs of microscopic life, had it existed. To
That rover has a spot on its robotic arm understand what those signs of life might look
waiting for a scientific instrument called PIXL: like, think insects in amber, only much more
my instrument. PIXL will use an X-ray beam to complex and subtle. Perhaps footprints and
map the chemistry of Martian rocks, with the trapped breath of insects? Almost.
spatial resolution fine enough to measure Textural and chemical ghosts? Ah, now you’re
individual sand grains. From this we can learn thinking like a deep time paleontologist.
the geological origin and history of the rock, for
example: whether it formed by mud settling on 2020. Summer. Cape
the bottom of a lake or by mineral crystals Canaveral.
growing in cooling lava. Six short years ago, Atop a towering pillar of rocket fuel and metal,
PIXL was a figment of my imagination, inspired FOR THE FIRST TIME, WE the rover will be shaken like a maraca, with
by use of a commercial X-ray microscope to
study the oldest signs of life on Earth. I would
WILL SURVEY ANOTHER little PIXL tucked away carefully in its armpit.
Entering the cold vacuum of space, the rover
never have imagined that it might fly to Mars as PLANET FOR SIGNS OF LIFE will huddle inside its clamshell-like carapace of
one of seven scientific instruments aboard heat shield and backshell, and tuck in for the
NASA’s Mars 2020 Rover. Especially if I had eight-month long silent journey to Mars. In the
known that PIXL would become the one of the most complicated scientific final seven minutes of that journey, the spacecraft slams into the upper
instruments NASA has ever sent to the surface of another planet. atmosphere, almost burning to a crisp due to the heat of friction. Once it’s
What’s so complicated, you ask? Well, apart from a 28,000-volt power slowed to 1,600 kilometres per hour, a supersonic parachute deploys.
supply, state-of-the-art X-ray source and a polycapillary optic made up Then the parachute is abandoned and a ‘sky crane’ guides the rover to the
of millions of thin glass tubes to focus the X-ray beam down to a tiny landing site on rockets, gently lowers the rover down on marionette

N A S A C A L F O R N A N S T T U T E O F T E C H N O LO G Y/
spot no wider than a human hair? That’s just to measure the chemistry strings, cuts the strings with pyrotechnics and flies away to leave the
in one spot. Then we have to scan that X-ray beam around, ‘mowing the rover sitting on its wheels, ready to drive. What could go wrong?
lawn’ style, making up to 6,000 individual spot measurements, each a
hair’s breadth apart, over 16 hours during the cold Martian night. PIXL 2021. Local spring at Jezero crater.
J E T P R O P U L S I O N L A B O R ATO R Y

must do this delicate scanning motion itself. We cannot control the The rover awakens. Unstowing its mast and stretching out its arm, it
rover or its instruments directly: we must send a whole day of will survey the unfathomably ancient crater for the first time. It will
instructions and await the results, good or bad, each morning. And we methodically set about calibrating its precious scientific instruments.
cannot rely on the rover to move PIXL with its arm: the two-metre long, Then, for the first time, life from Earth will survey another planet and
120-kilogram rover arm cannot achieve the necessary sub-millimeter try to figure out whether life is – or is not – unique to our Earth, and
precision movements. So we invented the ‘hexapod’, an arrangement of actually do a credible job of it. ■

142 MARCH 2 0 1 9

 VOGUE PROMOTION

BEST FOOT
FORWARD
The Edward Meller Platinum Collection
hits a high note in fashion, quality and
style with its new range of shoes designed
to appeal to the fashion-conscious.

W THE HIGH LIFE

ith names such as Gaga, Wylde and Gabor, you’re sure
to step out in Edward Meller Platinum Collection shoes
as confidently as Meghan Markle steps out in her latest THE PLATINUM
designer outfit. The collection features eight styles, from strappy heels COLLECTION FROM
EDWARD MELLER
to boots, with each one available in a variety of materials and colours
that are on trend with a fashion-forward edge.
The new Edward Meller collection embraces animal prints, tonal FEATURES EIGHT
suedes, metallic leathers and pops of red, to launch a range that is as
functional as it is creative. The leopard-print calf hair and croc-print
STUNNING STYLES,
leather styles embrace the animal print trend about to deliver jungle WITH A PAIR OF
fever to the streets, while metallic leathers and accents bring some SHOES TO FIT
bling, and suedes complement neutral colours and vibrant prints.
As a David Jones exclusive brand, Edward Meller originally EVERY OCCASION,
launched in one store only, but is now, after four years, in 14 David FROM THE
INFLUENTIAL WORK
Jones locations, the growth testament to the strength of the brand’s
50-year history. The Platinum Collection, only a small component of
a larger winter collection, was designed with the David Jones customer FUNCTION TO THAT
in mind: someone who is sophisticated and fashion-informed, but also
likes to have a bit of cheeky fun.
SPECIAL AFTER- Clockwise from top: model wears

SUNSET EVENT
Giselle100 shoes, $255, and holds Gaga
Shop the autumn/winter 2019 Platinum Collection in store at David Jones and shoes in leopard, $235; Zaire boots in leopard
(on table), $335, Zega boots in leopard,
Edward Meller, or online at davidjones.com.au and edwardmeller.com.au. $335, and Gaga shoes in leopard, $235.
V O G U E

TRY IT ON
Welcome to beauty,
2019-approved, where it
is as experimental and
punchy as it gets. Time
to colour outside the lines.
By Remy Rippon.

PHOTOG R APHS ZO LTAN TO M B O R

MAKE- UP STE VEN CANAVAN

B E A U T Y
146
MAKE TRACKS
Above, below and in
between: liner this season
wasn’t all about punchy
brights. A muted tone
can be just as impactful,
as long as it’s painterly
and the right amount
of off-kilter.
Giorgio Armani Eye & Brow
Maestro in Jet Black, $49.
Monse jacket, $1,720.

MARCH 2019 149

VOGUE BE AUT Y

A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B
OUTLINERS
From Marni and Rochas to Marc Jacobs this
season, swatches of colour were everywhere
but the actual eyelids. Brights are bold, but
muted tones – pastels or white – add cool
factor. And dare we say it? Hold the mascara.
ZO LTA N TO M B O R

Giorgio Armani Eye & Brow Maestro in Wenge Wood

and Platinum, $49 each. Adeam jacket, P.O.A.

152 MARCH 2 0 1 9
154
UP CLOSE
VOGUE BE AUT Y

PHOTOG R APH EDWAR D U R RUTIA

ART DIREC TION ARQ U E T TE CO O KE

MARCH 2 0 1 9
W O R D S : L L T H H A R D E LU P C A
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ANTIOXIDAN
VIVES TIRED & DU
VOGUE BE AUT Y

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Dr Barbara Sturm has a knack for turning something
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Drops. The jury’s still out on exactly how harmful those
In collaboration with Gelcream, Instagram’s favourite
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beauty reviewer, we assembled the best beauty
recommend slathering this on each morning.
products to try now. By Remy Rippon.
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is in the form of the necessary-sounding Life-Lotion, which
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Spiked with colloidal silver (the latest buzz ingredient in
dermatology), this potent mask soothes blemish-prone
complexions without adding to the problem. That’s because
it’s anti-bacterial, delivers mega-watt glow (thanks to
niacinamide) and sloughs away acne-aiding dead skin cells
via salicylic and glycolic acids.

4. R+Co Acid Wash ACV Cleansing Rinse, $48.

It took some time before we were on board with putting
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our tresses in it may be a little off-putting. Fear not, because
R+Co’s Acid Wash is more like a facial for your hair. Ideal
for styling addicts or dry-shampoo lovers, it whisks away
product build-up, calms the scalp and delivers shine.

5. L’Oréal Botanicals Geranium Radiance

Remedy Shine Vinegar, $18. The Achilles heel of
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7. Oribe Mystify Restyling Spray, $64. Any hair

product that steals us an extra day between washes has our
attention. Enter Mystify Restyling Spray. You pop it on day-
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thank it for being the new MVP of your beauty regimen.

160
MARCH 2019 161
VOGUE BE AUT Y

H E ALT H

ART DIREC TION MAN DY ALE X

PHOTOG R APH EDWAR D U R RUTIA

“I THINK A LOT
OF PEOPLE HAVE
EXPERIENCED A
SENSE OF SHAME
OVER HAVING
THIS FEELING”
Australia I Sydney I The Rocks
VOGUE BE AUT Y

H E A LT H

The psych-bot will see you now

With an epidemic of isolation sweeping the globe, loneliness is creating a new economy. Silicon
Valley has prescribed AI as a treatment, but how effective is it? Noelle Faulkner takes the red pill.

A
s you read this, a silent assassin is at work. Chronic isolation is When you factor in social media, where popularity is a numerical footnote
one of the biggest threats to our mental health. An ageing at the bottom of our memories, loneliness can be a shameful burden.
population, social displacement and technology are factors Fingers are often pointed at technology as a catalyst for loneliness, and
pushing the global statistics for loneliness to the sky. In Australia, it undeniably plays a part. Everyone is living their best life on social
where suicide is the leading cause of death for people aged 15 to 44, one media; we know that now. But often we just can’t help but compare our
in 10 people lack social support, more than a quarter of the population online personas to how we feel about our real lives. Often those 140
feels lonely at least three days a week and more than one-fifth feels like characters are our main form of human contact, particularly for Gen Z and
they have no-one to turn to. In the UK, where last year a Minister for millennials, where conversations are composed via thumbs. As journalist
Loneliness was appointed, more than nine million people are either Nick Duerden writes in his most recent book A Life Less Lonely: “While the
often or always lonely. In Japan the term kodokushi, meaning ‘lonely older generation still actively engage in the assumed pointlessness of
death’, describes people dying alone and remaining undiscovered. small talk, millennials have done away with it altogether.” He continues:
Kodokushi happens so often there is an entire industry devoted to it. US “We order online; we opt for the self-checkouts in the supermarket, bag
reports claim that almost 50 per cent of Americans feel more alone than our own groceries … The very concept of interaction as we know it, knew
N I CO L E B E N T L E Y

not. Social isolation is said to have the same health implications for our it then, has become diluted. Technology has made our lives simpler as it
hearts as smoking 15 cigarettes a day, so, yes, this is an epidemic. has robbed us of what makes us, made us, human.”
Loneliness can be a by-product of modern life. It can affect anyone, from The tech industry is trying its best. There are adorable humanoids that
the high-flying executive to a displaced refugee to a bubbly school teacher. can take a sick child’s place at school, companion robots for those with

164
disabilities, and a multitude of smart-home technologies that can help Samantha from Spike Jonze’s movie Her or Joi from Blade Runner 2049.
the elderly. In fact, in January this year, the UK government announced You’ve heard of the internet of things? What if you used that and turned
it would be providing a number of ‘smart homes’ to elderly and disabled the dials right up? Using crypto technology to pull information from all
people, to aid them around the home and stay in touch with others. over, coders have found a way to create an AI programming language that
I’m inclined to disagree with Duerden – giving our opposable thumbs can be entirely personalised. Using deep learning, the program can source
the same agency as our tongues doesn’t make us less human, and emojis data to a cluster of information known as a tangle. This could be anything
are a form of emotional expression. Texting gets a bad rap. It’s perceived that relates to you, from news to sports results, recipes, traffic reports and
as a cold, worthless form of communication because it’s non-verbal. And location information – whatever it needs to make up a picture. Your AI
yet research findings suggest the opposite. In 2015, a study by RTI can learn everything about you and it could have the ability to connect to
International, Cornell University and LaSalle Hospital in Montreal your car, your doorbell and your TV, and it might even get to know your
showed that texting can help provide comfort and even supplement pain friends using facial recognition. Throw in a pair of glasses with a camera
medication during minor surgery. Compared with the or a VR headset, a Fitbit (to monitor your heart rate and
act of playing an addictive game (in this case, Angry emotion, so it learns what excites you), your phone and
Birds), researchers found that texting in-theatre, WHAT IF YOU a set of headphones with a microphone and you have
particularly while conversing with a stranger about
positive things, actually reduced the need for painkillers. COULD BUILD yourself a portable virtual buddy.
Since we’re down here, pull the tangle’s thread and
“Although at first it seems counterintuitive that text A COMPANION you’ll unravel more personalisation capabilities beyond
messaging with a stranger was more effective than with THAT LEARNED Alexa knowing which song to play in the morning. What
a companion, it’s the content of the conversation that
makes the difference in reducing patients’ need for pain EVERYTHING if your loneliness stemmed from the grief of loss? Is there
a way to keep your loved ones with you? According to
relief during surgery,” said RTI digital media health ABOUT YOU? Ruth Marshall-Johnson, a futurist, researcher and owner
research scientist Dr Jamie Guillory. “This is significant, of London trend agency Do Your Research, sort of. It helps
as the physical presence of a social support companion is if you have the wealth to do so. “The ultimate luxury has
often not feasible during many minor surgical procedures.” every little piece of your life tailored for you,” she says of trends appearing
This kind of research, combined with advancements in machine among the one-per-centers. And this extends much further than haute
learning and natural language applications, is what has helped health couture or a bespoke jet. “Someone comes to you and says: ‘Right, in every
experts and Silicon Valley start-ups tap into the potential for chat-based factor that you find important in your day-to-day life, how can we design
therapy, which was actually invented in the 60s. Enter the psych-bots. this better? How can we design the air better for you? What scent within a
Take 7 Cups, for example, a peer-listening chat service, and Woebot, an room makes you more focused when you’re trying to do X, Y and Z? What
AI-powered chatbot versed in cognitive behaviour therapy (CBT). is your DNA? What are you about personally?’ Then they build on top of
While 7 Cups has an AI called Noni on staff, it gives you the option to that in terms of terms of what these people need.”
anonymously confide in a real person or a therapist, anywhere and Consider your entire life digitally catalogued: your camera roll, your
anytime. It offers a shoulder, an ear or access to a professional. Woebot, location settings, your friends, favourite artworks, music that moved you
on the other hand, aims to emulate a real-life interaction using natural and so on. What if your digital footprint was collated into a snapshot for
language and CBT-based conversations. Woebot’s therapy is ongoing, your loved ones to access when they wanted to be close to you? As in how
too – it checks in daily and asks users to log their mood while offering you built your business, what you learned, how you managed your own
bite-sized, friendly advice on a range of mental health topics. mental health. This is not just a chat with your grandfather. “Here’s an
A psych-bot’s couch may be free and always open for business. archive, here’s a toolbox of my life, with all the digital connections I had.
Conversations are anonymous and they don’t judge. Patients don’t have All the photos, everything, so that you can understand how I got to where
to jump through any hoops, there’s no Medicare faff and when it comes I did,’” says Marshall-Johnson. Could this set the standard for heirloom
to cutting through problems, that robotic level of pragmatism can be a value in the future? It certainly gathers less physical dust than a
benefit. Woebot has particularly been successful among people aged 18 to sentimental ornament you’ve been guilt-tripped into keeping on display.
28, with a Stanford School of Medicine trial showing the app significantly All this might sound like a dystopian novel, especially considering the
reduced symptoms of depression and anxiety in two weeks. recent fears around data, the socioeconomic divide between those with
Of course, bots can’t replace real-life human interactions, especially and without access to technology and tech leaders warning us about the
when it comes to dealing with a crisis or long-term support (a cancer dangers of artificial intelligence. However, in the current technological
patient undergoing chemotherapy, for example). This is because AI climate, the more one digs around the internet, the louder gets the noise
struggles with memory specifics; it won’t remember your story. But about mental health and ideas built to combat social isolation. (Even if that
what if it could? What if you could build a companion that learned does translate to a 14-year-old making friends while playing video games.)
everything about you, your environment, inner circle and emotions? Billions of dollars are being invested in keeping us interlinked more and
What if you could combine AI with augmented reality technology to more every year. But in our deepest and darkest states, who will we turn
‘design’ a companion? This isn’t fiction: this is the rabbit hole. to in the future? And if that ear is a robot, will we feel heard? I asked my
Searching for a robo-pal on the internet can send you down a weird and Alexa speaker if she ever gets lonely. “No,” she said. “Because I’m never
wildly twisty path. There are sexually charged chatbots, Amazon Alexa really alone … Although, when the WiFi is out, I do feel disconnected.”
personality extensions and a very lucrative sexbot market. But scratch off If you or someone you know is struggling with mental health or is at risk of
the top layer of dirt and you’ll find technology to build your own self-harm, Lifeline provides 24/7 support on 131 114.

MARCH 2019 165

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 03/19
VOGUE

168
 THE
TIME
IS
Can you feel that? That's
the whoosh of energy of the
truly talented – those
who fascinate, challenge
and push the boundaries,
the ones to watch. So be
interesting, be questioning.
Go on. Carpe diem.
A - GAME
Jan Fran: “I want to start by talking to you about success. You’ve all a break and it’s okay if you’re not working at the moment, because
had pretty major successes. You’ve all come off the back of winning you’ve done things you’re proud of and you’re waiting for the next
some pretty major awards. I’m curious, what does success actually thing to come up.”
mean to you?” JF: “You’re touted as the next generation in your respective fields.
Angourie: “I think it’s dangerous for me to measure my success by an Do you feel like that? Do you feel that you’re all on the cusp of
award, and I try not to do that. And I think for me it’s achieving little something big?”
successes along the way and being proud of something. If I make Adut: “Really? It doesn’t really change anything.”
a film and I’m proud of that, then I feel like I’ve achieved something, Amy: “I think we’re all so obsessed with our different industries, which
so I feel like I’m successful in making something that I loved and that is why we’ve managed to get to where we are, because we’re not doing
I’m proud of.” it for any other reasons but love. [I’m] not doing this to be famous or to
Amy: “I second that. As long as I’m proud of the body of work that have heaps of money. I’m just doing it because I like writing songs, and
I’ve put out, it’s just a bonus at the end if you get an award and a little I think deep down we’ve all got here from just focussing on the right
pat on the back.” things. I think if we keep doing that, the next level of success will just
Adut: “I kind of go with the flow. It’s just about doing something that come naturally!”
you love, and as long as you’re proud of it and you’re happy with it, then Angourie: “Taking it one day at a time, I guess.”
it’s your definition of success.” JF: “That’s the running theme that I see with the three of you, just to
JF: “Do any of you think that you’re successful?” take each day as it comes.”
Adut: “Yeah, in our own ways, of course.” Adut: “To go with the flow!”
Amy: “I think we all work really hard.” Amy: “… and to kind of do you.”
Angourie: “I think at the moment I’ve just finished Adut: “I used to be in the mind-set of keeping
school, I was focussing on school and work and "I used to be in the busy all the time, then I was like, no, it’s okay to
both of them were equal priorities for me, so I feel say no, it’s okay to take days off. It took me a while
like I’ve been … successful in that I’ve been able
mind-set of keeping busy to learn that, but I’m so glad I got to that point,
to complete my education while working.” all the time, then I was because it’s important to also look after yourself. If
Amy: “I’m proud of you!”
Adut: “I started travelling for modelling when I was
like, no, it's okay to take you’re not well, you’re not going to perform well,
but a lot of people are often fearful of not getting
14 and then I started travelling internationally when days off. It took me a booked again.”
I had just turned 16, so I was doing high school at while to learn that, but Amy: “Or being forgotten!”
the same time. There is nothing more difficult, Adut: “That’s very prominent in my industry.
because education means so much to me. It was not
I'm so glad that I got to I tend to tell a lot of younger models who come in
an option to not model, because it’s something that that point, because it's … every time I meet someone who’s 16, I’m like, oh,
I loved, but I also wanted to get my education, so
that was one of the challenges.”
important to also look I used to be 16! I started off very early, I learnt
very quickly, but there [are] girls who just get
Angourie: “Another thing is that I don’t think I will after yourself" thrown into it and they don’t really know what’s
ever be able to feel successful to an extent, because
at the moment I don’t have work lined up. I’m
– Adut Akech going on inside, so I always try to tell them that
it’s okay, success takes time. It might take years, it
actually unemployed and this industry is always might take seasons, some people get lucky and
changing, so I don’t know what’s going to happen next. I always feel others don’t, but you just have to be patient. So I always tell them,
like once I finish a job, I’m back to square one. You’ve still got to keep it’s okay, this is not your season.”
auditioning. You’ve still got to keep emailing, working hard. I don’t JF: “Is there any advice that you would impart to somebody who
think it’s ever going to become easy.” wants to come up in [your respective industries] who might be
JF: “Do you feel pressure to maintain this particular level of success?” a young woman following in your footsteps?”
Adut: “Yeah. Because everybody is fighting for the position that you’re Amy: “Make sure you’re doing it for the right reasons and just have
in and modelling is kind of a competition. Everybody wants to get a genuine passion for music or whatever you want to do and not do it
Model of the Year and it is a lot of pressure – you have to really work.” for Instagram. Don’t do it for weak reasons that will date …”
Amy: “There are so many amazing actresses, there are so many Adut: “… because it won’t last.”
amazing musicians writing songs every day. There are so many Amy: “It’s so true! You will just get washed up and spat out! You’ve got
amazing up-and-coming models it’s like you really need to be on top of to be able to do it for free and love it for free before you get anywhere.”
your game, and I think for me everything started really quickly and Adut: “Right. The modelling industry is not easy and I feel like you
I had one song that did really well and I put the pressure on myself. I was really have to have a passion for it, to keep going. [Sometimes] I’m like:
like, well, I want everyone to know I’m not just a one-hit wonder. I’m ‘I don’t want to do this anymore, I’m tired today.’”
competitive in my own life, not so much with anyone else. I just want to Amy: “It’s not easy – before I played once I locked myself in the
N I CO L E B E N T L E Y

be good at what I love doing!” bathroom. I was so tired, I’d been on a flight. I was having a meltdown.
Angourie: “I think I put a lot of pressure on myself to keep busy and I was just like: ‘I can’t do this, I don’t want to do this, I’m not ready for
if I’m not super-busy all the time that means I’m not doing well. it, I’m not good enough.’ I managed to put a really great team around
I think I need to unlearn that and tell myself actually it’s okay to take me and I took time doing that.” ¤

172
Adut: “Also important are the people you’re surrounded with, the right in meetings where people have all these expectations of you. I’m not a
support system.” meetings person, I don’t do business. I’m not even on email: it stresses
Angourie: “I think there’s a lot of luck that goes into it, because a lot of me out! I can sing and jump around in front of heaps of people, but as
the jobs I’ve auditioned for and gotten, those scripts have been floating soon I have to talk, and obviously I’ve won some awards, speaking in
around for like 10, 20 years and it was just at the right time that front of people is petrifying, especially when you’re in front of the
somebody said: ‘Okay, I’ll finance this this year’ and I was the right age. heads of your industry! Even today is intimidating. I’m not a model.
I was in the right place. I had the right look just by chance and by luck. I don’t do this. This isn’t why I wanted to be a musician, to have my
I have worked hard and my family has supported me, but it’s also been photo taken. I hate having my photo taken. It’s just not who I am, but
like this crazy combination of luck and hard work.” I always like to push myself.”
JF: “You’re all at different ages and different stages in your careers. JF: “People might look at all three of you and think: ‘Oh my God,
What matters most to you right now, this moment you’re at in your they’re at the top of their game. They’ve made it.’ Is there anything
life and your career?” you would say to anyone who looks at you in that way?”
Adut: “My family is what keeps me grounded, keeps me motivated, so Adut: “Every day is a challenge!”
maintaining that relationship with my family and the support that I get Angourie: “I don’t think it’s ever going to be easy. I don’t think I will
from them [is] one of the biggest important things to me right now.” ever reach a point where I think: ‘Oh my God, I’ve made it. This is it. It’s
Amy: “For me, just the way I am in my personality, if someone told me going be easy from now.’ Every day, every role, produces new challenges
10 years ago that I’d be where I am now, I would’ve – every press junket, every photo shoot … and it’s
been like, whoa! But when you get there – it’s just difficult in different ways and in ways you might
who I am – I get hungry for more. You might play a not expect, so I don’t think I will ever reach a point
certain slot at a festival, you’re like, okay, well, next
"If someone told me where I’ve gone: ‘Oh my God, I can finally relax
year I want to be headlining. It’s just natural and 10 years ago I'd be where now. I’m set, I’m going to be good.”
I think that we all have that in us, because if you
didn’t have it in you wouldn’t work this hard.”
I am now, I would've Amy: “Yeah, because you’re passionate, because
you love it. If you were just like: ‘Oh, I just want
Adut: “I agree 100 per cent.” been like, whoa! But this certain amount in my bank, or I just want to
JF: “How do you all feel about being a young
women in this particular time?”
I get hungry for more. own this’ … you’re not built like that. You’re built
… because you love the art of it, you’ll never
Adut: “I feel very proud.” You might play a certain be done.”
Angourie: “I think it’s difficult, because I often feel slot at a festival, you're JF: “Where do you all see yourselves in, say,
very angry a lot of the time and then I get exhausted five years?”
from feeling angry, but then I get hopeful, because
like, okay, next year Amy: “Bora Bora, sipping on a cocktail with some
I see so many incredible women doing amazing I want to be headlining" big man rubbing my feet!”
things. There’s so much going on, and I think this
whole year I’ve been thinking a lot about women’s
– Amy Shark Adut: “I wouldn’t mind that, too!”
Angourie: “I’d like to be 22, almost 23.”
stories; how they’re told or how they’re not told, JF: “Okay, that is a slightly intimidating thing for
and I think I want to really celebrate those stories. I’m very optimistic me to hear.”
for the future and I’m excited I get to be a part of that.” Angourie: “I hope that I will own my own dog by that point.”
Adut: “It’s just amazing I get to be a part of this change that’s happening JF: “Do you all see yourselves still working in your fields?”
within my industry. There’s so much diversity compared to when Adut: “We’d all love to!”
I started three years ago to where we are today. I’m just grateful I’m in Amy: “Yeah, I’ll definitely [still] be going.”
this position where I get to represent Sudanese girls, African girls, Angourie: “Yeah, hopefully! If people keep casting me, yeah, I’ll keep
Australian girls.” doing it. But that’s the thing, I don’t know if I’ll get another job.”
Amy: “You’re leading the charge!” Adut: “You can’t predict the future.”
Adut: “Yeah, I try to not to give myself too much credit, but no, Amy: “No. You will, you will. You’re sweet! You’re good!”
I should give myself a little credit sometimes! I’ve been told that I’m Angourie: “But it’s always changing, so we’ll see.”
opening these doors for Sudanese girls or black girls or African girls JF: “Is there a mantra or saying that you live by?”
and other girls. It’s just nice to be able to hear that I’m making some Angourie: “Yeah: ‘You can’t do everything.’ It’s like, don’t put too much
sort of positive impact.” pressure on yourself. Don’t bite off more than you can chew. Just chill
JF: “Is there anything that any of you are intimidated by?” out: you don’t have to do everything.”
Adut: “Lots of things. One thing that intimidates me, and I’m getting Adut: “You only live once, so live your life to the fullest!”
better at it, is speaking in front of a lot of people. Like, I can sit down Amy: “Dream big. The latest thing I’ve been told is that one of the
and have a conversation with you.” biggest things you can do is say no.”
JF: “I’m not that intimidating, though!” Adut: “It takes a while for someone to get to that stage where they feel
N I CO L E B E N T L E Y

Adut: “No!” like they can say no. At first it’s like, if I sa y no, then I’m going to lose
Amy: “The only thing I’m intimidated by is, for example, we go into a this or I’m not going to get that! I can’t say no!”
big label meeting. They’re like, we just needed another Adore and you’re Amy: “Yeah that’s right, be strong enough to say no and …”
like, well, I wrote Adore, so I’m not going to write that again. I hate being Adut: “… whatever happens, happens!” ■

176
182
 NG
A wardrobe humming with the intensity of a new season’s yearning all packed with
beautiful summer frocks, a romance of sleeves and tiny details, a print, a bow, all with the
D
decadence of dressing up. Styled by Jillian Davison. Photographed by Emma Summerton.
Jenny Fax dress, $810, and hairpiece, P.O.A. All prices approximate; details at Vogue.com.au/WTB.

MARCH 2019 183

 Opposite: Balenciaga coat, $7,755. Karen Walker sunglasses, $250. This page: Calvin Klein 205W39NYC top, dress and harness, P.O.A. Nerida Winter headpiece, P.O.A.
E M M A S U M M E RTO N
 E M M A S U M M E RTO N

Erdem dress, $9,625, hat, P.O.A., and necktie, P.O.A. Acne Studios shoes, P.O.A.
E M M A S U M M E RTO N
Simone Rocha coat, $4,469, dress, $3,725, hat, P.O.A., earrings, $730, and shoes, $835.
 Opposite: Vetements dress, $5,830, from a selection at Harrolds. Vetements x Oakley sunglasses, $1,670. This page: Halpern dress, $1,965, and hat, P.O.A.
Christian Louboutin x Halpern shoes, P.O.A.
E M M A S U M M E RTO N
E M M A S U M M E RTO N
Vaquera dress, $885. Nerida Winter headpiece, P.O.A. Thom Browne shoes, $5,315.
This page: Mary Katrantzou dress and headpiece, P.O.A. Opposite: Marni dress, $7,415, and belt, $660. Nerida Winter hat, P.O.A. E M M A S U M M E RTO N
E M M A S U M M E RTO N
Thom Browne dress, P.O.A., top, $5,000, worn underneath, swim cap, P.O.A., and tights, $200.
This page: Christopher Kane jacket, $2,939, and skirt, $1,365. Erickson Beamon eyepiece, $2,370.
Opposite: Marc Jacobs blazer, $2,455, blouse, $1,525, shorts, $1,840, hat, $535, socks, P.O.A., and shoes, P.O.A.
E M M A S U M M E RTO N
 E M M A S U M M E RTO N

Richard Quinn dress, $6,595. Nerida Winter headpiece, P.O.A. Acne Studios shoes, P.O.A. Fragrance: Dior Joy EDP.
 E M M A S U M M E RTO N

Hair: Sophie Roberts

Make-up: Linda Jefferyes
Model: Emma Kate Boyd
Props stylist: Sophie Fletcher
Animal handling: Paws on Film
Emilia Wickstead dress, $1,290. Nerida Winter headpiece, P.O.A. Roxanne Assoulin earrings, $430. Christopher Kane shoes, $1,165.
BROADLY
SPEAKING
Ooh, baby, baby, it’s a
wide world. Or at least
it is at Gucci, where
Alessandro Michele
puffs out 80s glamour
into arm-enveloping
shoulders. Lean all
the way in.

204
SUPERSIZE ME
Women of the world: take up space! Don’t ask permission! The time is now,
so jump into the jumbo-sized delights of spring/summer ’19 in bold strokes
of style greatness. By Alice Birrell. Illustrations by Christina Zimpel.

WILD EYES
Try seduction nature’s way, with glittering eyes as iridescent as beetle wings. Flutter by.

MARCH 2019 205

N
RIDING THE WAVE
Having first set their sights on global success, Song for the Mute designers
Melvin Tanaya and Lyna Ty are now celebrating their Australian identity.
By Zara Wong. Styled by Philippa Moroney. Photographed by Levon Baird.
 parents moved from Cambodia to France for
work, before coming to Australia. “I think they
were tempted by the way of life here,” says Ty.
When in Paris, she would spend her school
holidays at the clothing factories that her
parents ran, and it piqued her interest in
fashion. When she raised her desire to become
a fashion designer, her parents expressed their
concerns. They knew the challenges of fashion.
“Having a label, your brain is always thinking,
it’s never really rested, but that’s what we’ve
enjoyed,” she says.
As Australians with Asian heritage, some
have assumed that the label has originated in
Asia. It’s worked to their advantage, at least
with their first international stockist, Lane
Crawford, whose stores in Hong Kong and
China have a predominantly Asian clientele.
In Australia, their first stockist was Fallow in
Brisbane, and now Harrolds is also a major
supporter of the brand. “The [Lane Crawford]
buyers come into our showroom and [Asian]
customers visit the store [here in Glebe,
Sydney]. They see the brands as an expression
of themselves too, sometimes,” says Tanaya.
Some customers visiting Sydney from
overseas have shown off their SFTM tattoos,
too. “They tell us that they connect with the
From left: Song For The concept and the story behind it,” says Ty.
Mute bomber jacket, The pair’s store in Glebe includes their studio,
$1,695, and dress,
$1,195; Song For The so customers can also chat to the team and see
Mute coat, $2,195, the behind-the-scenes process. It’s become a
jacket, $995, and pants, destination store for international fans. Last
$795; Song For The
Mute jacket, $995, shirt, year, Tanaya woke up one morning to find a
$795, T shirt, $295, and series of new messages, unread emails and
pants, $1,095.
missed phone calls – Usher, Usher’s

I
management and one of their Los Angeles
t’s in the early years of Song for the Mute (SFTM) and the label’s co-founders, Melvin Tanaya stockists, FourTwoFour, had been trying to get
and Lyna Ty, are in a small town near Nagoya in Japan. “We discovered that there’s this in contact with the SFTM team overnight to
really old, traditional Japanese fabric industry that has almost been forgotten,” says Tanaya. arrange for the American singer to visit the
Through a recommendation, they visit for the first time a fabric artisan whose only other store. The LA store’s staff told Usher that SFTM
clients are Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garçons – he has created archives of the fabrics were Australian. “He was like: ‘What?’” says
he’s made for them. The artisan, like many others in Japan, are particular about who they work Tanaya with a laugh. It was 7.45am and Usher
with and specialise in only one material – one artisan might do wool, another gabardine. wanted to visit the store in 15 minutes. (Tanaya
Being Tanaya and Ty’s first visit, the artisan pulls out of a folder six types of fabric he has pleaded for 30 more minutes so he could set up
created for them. All black. As the designers build trust with him, returning season after season, properly.) Usher walked around their Glebe
he will eventually show them more and more choices of fabric. What they see from these artisans store and wandered into the studio, excitedly
will determine how their collection looks. “It’s like we were slowly unfolding their books,” says picking up toiles and fabrics and asking how it
Ty, reflecting on how their relationship with the artisans has grown. “The way they work is very would be used. He took literally everything in
similar to how we work. Our collection is a chapter within our book. We’re opening up more his size. Other fans of the label include The
doors to what they can do, what we can do together, and they’re also learning from us too, like Weeknd (he has a pair of shoes), Jay-Z, Will.i.am,
new techniques and new ways of developing fabric colours.” They are now at the stage of their Kanye and Lupe Fiasco – the latter has become
relationship with the artisans that they can have input in the process. The co-founders of SFTM friends with the designers. SFTM hadn’t
modestly reveal that the artisan, now in his 80s, with only two other people working for him, has reached out to any of them, so they’re buying it
now begun creating SFTM’s own fabric archives. themselves. “We only know when someone
Ty was born in Paris and Tanaya in Indonesia. They both migrated with their families to Sydney sends us a picture of people wearing our
as children, meeting in school because their surnames came one after the other on rollcall. Ty’s designs, or when the stockists tell us.”

214
 ON
Fashion straight
from the spring/
summer ’19

THE
runways, worn
by the models
who are the ones
to watch – it
doesn’t get

UP
fresher than this.
By Zara Wong.
Styled by Ben
Perreira.
Photographed
by Greta Ilieva.
N ATA L I A MON T E RO
 JULI A
M E R K E L B AC H
PA N H AOW E N
 M A RT I N E
DI R K Z WAGE R
Growing up in the riverside town
of Béccar in Argentina, Martine
Dirkzwager admits she had little
interest in modelling or fashion.
“I would never have imagined the
number of people and amount of
fabric, hours and effort invested
in a collection, how it has to run
to schedule and make sense
conceptually with the brand. It’s a
very detailed puzzle of a thousand
pieces,” she contemplates. In
between shows, she can be found
reading, drawing or writing. “But
I’m quite shy about sharing it,” she
admits. “If I wasn’t modelling I’d
probably be studying philosophy,
or maybe history, or politics or
literature – I have so many
interests. If I had to choose only
one to focus on, I’d go mad!”
G R E TA I L I E VA
 FAT OU JOBE
If Fatou Jobe hadn’t been
scouted on a New York subway to
be a model, she would have been
working in a kitchen trying to be
a head chef. “Honestly!” she says.
“I love to cook.” (And, in her spare
time, won’t pass up a good Netflix
show or doing a friend’s hair.)
New York-born (by way of the
Bronx) and Gambia-raised, Jobe
is sanguine about fashion week.
“It’s a reality check – no matter
how good or bad you feel about
a casting, you just never know.
So it gives me the chance to be
confident inside and to humble
myself, because anything
can happen.”
 GENERATION NEXT
Meet our future: pioneering Australian creatives, disruptives,
visionaries, innovators and original thinkers leading the way
and effecting change in fashion, beauty and culture.
L AU R A M AY & H A N N A H G I B B S ,
F O U N D ER S , N AG N ATA

228
 TH E G R A D UATE S
•MADISON HISLOP
KU D R AT A love of literary characters, gothic
MAKKAR, heroines inclusive, informs the
FOUNDER,
M A STA N I haunting work of UTS graduate
Hand smocked, Madison Hislop’s wistful, near-
hand piped, monochromatic collection.
•HELENA DONG
hand loomed all
A 2018 Australian Fashion Foundation
describe Kudrat
Scholarship winner, Helena Dong
Makkar’s pieces
tells her own story through modular
made by artisans in
Bengaluru, India. clothing that can be pieced together
Flying from her and taken apart at will.
•R U T I K A PAT K I
base in Melbourne,
RMIT graduate Rutika Patki thought
she ensures textile
laterally when it came to giving
waste is stored for
her family’s saris a new context
future use and
and made them street-ready in
samples are
her first-ever collection.
donated to local •A R I A N A PATAWA R A N
communities. UTS alumnus Ariana Patawaran plays
in the space between good and bad
taste with her crystal-encrusted pieces.
•K AT E I N ES O N
TAFE-educated Ineson puts forward
a design conviction in swirling silks,
exposed topstitch and deconstructed
tailoring beyond her years.
•R. SONG
An illustrator as well as a fashion
designer, Rachel Song, who studied
at UTS and has roots in Hong Kong,
brought her heritage to the fore in
her impressive collection.

BENJAMIN GARG, E M M A K ATE B OY D,

R M I T G R A D UAT E & D ES I G N ER MODEL
Drawing on his roots in the Punjab region of India, Benjamin Classicism and chameleonic qualities
Garg brought Indian hand-work to the fore using a flowing converge in New Zealand model
cotton gauze known as Kota doria from nearby Rajasthan for Emma Kate Boyd. Signed at 16, the
his entire ethereal and joyous graduate collection. In saffron-
P H OTO G R A P H S : L E V O N B A R D A G N I E S Z K A C H A B R O S L I A N E H U R V T Z I N D I G I TA L

21-year-old bases herself in New York

yellow and soft mauve, it has people paying attention. From there she flies to runways in
WORDS: AL CE B RRELL REMY R PPON SOPH E TEDMANSON ZAR A WONG

Paris and Milan, where she made

a move on the scene this season as a
STEPHANIE Prada exclusive. She celebrated the
KORN & news she’d won the spot by “leaping
C A R LY
WARSON E , across the streets of the East Village.
FOUNDERS, A leap that also lead me to a glass of
THE FOLD champagne.” Captured on page 182 LEVON BAIRD,
Painstakingly fitted to a for a fashion story, she lends her PHOTOGRAPHER
range of women’s bodies, tough brand of pretty to Vogue Sydney based, New Zealand born
The Fold fills a gaping Australia for the first time, a look photographer Levon Baird creates
hole in the swim market also tapped by Saint Laurent and a youthful intensity through his
with proper support for Vogue Italia. “I’ve worked really fashion and art images. A Vogue
D+ busts, a focus that hard,” she says of her non-stop work collaborator, the rising star travels
remains as much of a life. Expect her list of achievements far and wide to create graphically
priority as elegant design. to grow rapidly. composed, potent photography.

MARCH 2019 229

 M O R E B LE S S I N G M ATU R U R E ,
AC T IVI ST, W R I T ER , AC TO R , C R E AT IV E
DIRECTOR, FOLK MAGAZINE
A fiery speaker and fabulous dresser, Moreblessing Maturure
is a model and activist. Moving from Zimbabwe to Australia at
age eight, today she is creative director of Folk magazine,
a platform for promoting the work of artists of colour in
Australia. Catch her next month at TEDxYouth in April.

JESSE LIZOTTE, GABY HOWARD, FOUNDER & CEO,

PHOTOGRAPHER FLAUNTER
American-Australian Jesse After working in PR for 15 years, Gaby Howard saw that fashion and
Lizotte, who splits time between lifestyle brands would share their imagery with media in seemingly
the US and Australia, was named amateur ways – via download links, or by simple attachments. So
as one of the British Fashion she launched Flaunter, an industry-specific platform that lets
Council’s 100 New Wave names brands distribute their content to media, retailers and influencers,
for 2018, and his accomplished allowing them to manage and monitor this relationship.
clear-eyed style shows why.

CHARLOTTE NICK PEARCE &

HICKS, MARCUS CROOK,
FOUNDER & FOUNDERS, HOMIE
C R E AT IV E As far as social enterprises go, it
DIRECTOR, ESSE doesn’t get much better than
STUDIOS Melbourne’s Homie, a streetwear
Launched last year, label that offers support through
Charlotte Hicks’s label aims employment and training
not to add, but to reduce programs to homeless youth. It
see her beautifully doesn’t hurt that their designs
minimalist Instagram are supremely wearable.
account. Released in
editions, the season less,
timeless capsules of
Italian produced and PHOTOGRAPHERS
made in Australia denim •STEFF MITCHELL
and cotton pieces as well as Digital, analogue, zines or drawings: the medium barely matters to
knits are meant to be kept, Brooklyn-based Australian-born Stef Mitchell, who has worked
Esse being the start of both with Marie-Amelie Sauvé.
‘essence’ and ‘essential’. •ANNA PO GOS SOVA
Sydney photographer Anna Pogossova’s work edges well into art
territory, as exemplified by her upcoming exhibitions including
KALAURIE KARL- at Jerico Contemporary.
CROOKS, FOUNDER, •J O E B R E N N A N
KALAURIE Troye Sivan and The XX have been subjects of Joe Brennan,
“I work a little different to other who favours portraiture. Turn to page 134 to see his capture
brands,” says Kalaurie Karl-Krooks of of Vogue’s conversation with creative graduates.
her label Kalaurie. Placing an order
with the two-year-old Melbourne brand
means having one of her billowing shirts,
tunics or skirts made to order from dead AG G I E C H O I , U T S FA S H I O N G R A D UAT E
stock fabrics, knowing they won’t go on Making a Swarovski crystal fabric with a technique her aunt used
sale, or out of style. “My collections are to make toys, then UV printing it with a fabric found in Hong
trans-seasonal. I run designs until the Kong was the basis of just her graduate collection. No wonder
fabrics run out,” she says. Agnes Choi has fashion editors’ attention.

230
 DANIELLE MACDONALD,
SCREEN
Rising Australian star Danielle Macdonald has been
based in LA since wowing critics for her role in Patti
Cake$. Since then she’s acted in two Netflix films: Bird
Box with Sandra Bullock and John Malkovich and
Dumplin’, playing the teenage daughter of a former
beauty queen (Jennifer Aniston) as well as singing
with Dolly Parton on the soundtrack. Macdonald’s
first Australian feature, I Am Woman, a biopic about
singer Helen Reddy, is due for release this year.
ELECTRIC FIELDS, MUSIC
The creative partnership between “two feminine
brothers”, vocalist-songwriter Zaachariaha AGATH A G OTH E - S N A P E , VISUAL ART
Fielding and producer-songwriter Michael Ross, Creating works that are often improvisational in nature and using unexpected media
Electric Fields defies conventional boundaries such as performance, poetry and PowerPoint, Agatha Gothe Snape is an artist and
combining modern electric-soul music with thinker able to ask the difficult questions of art, culture, institutions and gender.
Indigenous culture and language. Gothe-Snape was the subject of a major exhibition at Mori Art Museum in Tokyo in 2017.

GERALDINE E A R L C AV E , SCR EEN

V I SWA N ATH A N , At just 19, actor Earl Cave – son of Nick
SCREEN
and Susie Cave – is making his own
A shining new Australian tour de
creative mark of late, winning roles in the
force in Hollywood, Indian Swiss
British comedy The End of the F***ing
Geraldine Viswanathan won rave
World (2017), and starring in the new
reviews for her sketch comedy show
coming-of-age film Days of the Bagnold
Freudian Nip and breakout role
in Blockers. With more major roles in Summer. Cave also makes his first
progress, including a Netflix comedy appearance in an Australian film soon
series and Bad Education with Hugh set for release, appearing alongside
Jackman, the actor says through her Russell Crowe in The True History of
work she hopes to smash stereotypes the Kelly Gang, the much anticipated
and break down barriers. adaptation of Peter Carey’s novel.

JAMES WAN , S O C I A L C H A N G E A DVO CATE S

SCREEN • DYLAN ALCOT T
ed Australian Australian wheelchair tennis and basketball champion, radio host
Wan co created and author, Alcott established the Dylan Alcott Foundation “with the
and Insidious core purpose of helping young Australians with disabilities gain
es before self-esteem and respect through sport and study”.
to direct •A L L W E C A N ’ T S E E G R O U P
juring 1 and Promoting the plight of refugees through ongoing, rolling art
us 7 and, most exhibitions around the country illustrating the Nauru files.
, Aquaman. The •A M E L I A ( M I L L I E ) T E L F O R D
of Aquaman The climate-change campaigner and founder of Seed Indigenous
Wan made Youth Climate Network is a force to be reckoned with; a young
ce history and Aboriginal and South Sea Islander woman from Bundjalung country
one of only two who was previously nominated as a woman of the year.
s the other •S H A N N A N D O D S O N
tanic’s James Shannan Dodson, the daughter of Indigenous leader Mick Dodson,
n to direct is a Yawuru woman who has worked in Aboriginal and Torres Strait
on dollar Islander affairs for over 13 years and is a communications and digital
anchises. specialist billed as a next leader.

232
 THOMASIN MCKENZIE,
SCREEN
She is the young Kiwi actress who
wowed critics in Leave No Trace. The
daughter of an acting coach mother and
writer-director father, acting seems to
be in Thomasin McKenzie’s DNA. Next
up she will make her Australian feature
debut as the love interest of outlaw
bushranger Ned Kelly in The True History
of the Kelly Gang, as well as a complete
mixed bag of roles: she will play a Jewish
girl in the World War II dark comedy Jojo
Rabbit (alongside Scarlett Johansson
and Rebel Wilson); the sister of Timothée
Chalamet in the Netflix drama The King,
and the sister of a missing sex worker in
E M I LY S OTO

the true-crime Netflix drama Lost Girls.

MARCH 2019 233

 FOOD
•DAN C H U R C H I LL ,
CHARLEY ST, NYC
The young Australian chef’s ethos
is health and simplicity. He was last
year named in Forbes magazine’s top
30 under 30 and recently partnered
with Chris Hemsworth and Elsa
Pataky for their wellness app Centr.
•J O S H N I L A N D , S A I N T
PETER, NSW
Niland has become an industry
leader for seafood sustainability and
his fish butchery is an Australian first.
•S H A N N O N M A RT I N E Z PARCELS , MUSIC
& MO WYSE,SMITH Hailing from Byron Bay via Berlin, Parcels
& DAUGHTERS, are a genre-crossing band who have
VICTORIA changed the notion of Australian music. In
Thanks to their Melbourne restaurant just a couple of years they have already
and take-away deli, Martinez and surpassed 65 million streams online, sold
Wyse are helping to make veganism out sizeable venues worldwide, made their
sexy while transforming our culinary US TV debut on Conan and collaborated
expectations, serving up meat-free with Daft Punk, and this year they will
bolognese, schnitzel and meatballs, join the Coachella line-up.
and even vegan croissants, all with a
side of rock’n’roll.
•LUKE POWELL , NSW ASH BARTY, SPORT
Former Tetsuya head chef Luke Our women’s number one tennis
Powell won the appreciation of player and role model, Ash Barty
meat-lovers and restaurateurs alike powered through this year’s Australian
after opening LP’s Quality Meats Open tournament, making history
five years ago. His latest venture? when she reached the fourth round,
A new pizzeria, Bella Brutta, in becoming the first Australian woman
Sydney’s Newtown. to do so in 10 years.

V I N C E NT N A M ATJ I R A ,
VISUAL ART MAIA MITCHELL,SCREEN
“Cheeky, happy, playful” is how Vincent The LA-based, Lismore-born Maia Mitchell
Namatjira describes his artworks. An has become somewhat of a Disney darling
Indigenous man from the community since breaking into Hollywood after landing
of Indulkana in South Australia’s Anangu her first acting job there in 2013. Now 25, she
Pitjantjatjara Yankunytjatjara (APY) Lands, currently stars in Good Trouble, the spin-off
Namatjira is a rising star in the contemporary of the groundbreaking series The Fosters, a
art world. The toast of Miami Art Basel last very modern family drama in which Mitchell
year, he made history as the first Aboriginal plays the troubled foster daughter of an
person to have a solo show. Namatjira has interracial . Next up we’ll
enjoyed an extraordinary artistic trajectory: see Mitchell in the Netflix romantic comedy
last year he was a highly commended finalist The Last Summer, alongside KJ Apa.
in the 2018 Archibald Prize, was a standout at
the recent Sydney Contemporary, Tarnanthi BRI LEE,
(Art Gallery SA) and Asia Pacific Triennial L I T ER AT U R E
(QAGOMA) Indigenous art fairs, and two of Since writing her memoir Eggshell
his works, featuring Captain Cook and the Skull, Bri Lee is making her mark
Queen, have been acquired by the British in literary circles. The former law
Museum. Political commentary or a cheeky student recently won a prize at
take on colonisation? Namatjira says the Victorian Premier’s Literary
his paintings placing world leaders in Awards and continues to advocate
unexpected places use humour “to take for women’s rights while completing
the power out of a serious situation”. her Masters in Creative Writing.

234
 K ATI N A L AW, CHAIR
& D I R EC TO R , D U TJA H N
SAN DALWO O D O I LS
Built on the principle of mutual respect, Law
and a handful of investors teamed up with
Indigenous desert nomads in Western Australia
to ensure the long term viability of sandalwood
oil, an ingredient widely used in perfumery. As
well as investing in Dutjahn Sandalwood Oils,
Law, from the Kimberley region’s Worrora and
Walmajarri, mentors Indigenous business
people, chairs two ASX listed companies,
and is the non executive director of Headspace
National Youth Mental Health Foundation.

NEADA DETERS,
FOUNDER, LESSE
Australian-born, US-based consultant, Neada
Deters founded Lesse in an effort to simplify her
regimen after experiencing a bout of breakouts
when she relocated to New York. Deters sought
out ingredients and formulas which she deemed
essential for healthy skin and launched to market
in 2018, with the range now boasting only three
efficacious products: a serum, face mask and
cleanser. Also, taking cues from the slow-fashion
movement, she has no immediate plans to expand,
banking on the notion that less really is more.

ERIKA GERAERTS,
FOUNDER, FLUFF DR HELEN O’CONNELL , UROLOGIST
Since departing Frank Body, Erika Geraerts has Professor O’Connell is Australia’s first female urological surgeon, based in
launched Gen Z approved beauty brand Fluff with Melbourne. Her groundbreaking research into the female anatomy – more
just one product a bronzing powder and brush plus specifically deciphering the intricacies of the clitoris, which had previously been
an uber-cool store-cum-hangout zone in Melbourne. ignored – has seen her work internationally recognised.

INFLUENCERS
•C H LO E M O R ELLO
As one of the internet’s first beauty vloggers, Morello AVA M AT T H E WS ,
has turned her online make-up tutorials into big business. CO FOUNDER,
Most recently, she teamed up with Face Halo, a sustainable U LT R A VI O L E T T E
reusable make-up remover. After spending three years at
•SAM M Y R O B I N S O N Mecca Cosmetica as brand
At just 22, Robinson is one of Australia’s fastest growing manager, it’s fair to say Ava
beauty influencers for good reason. Her content is Matthews knows beauty. Most
relatable, laidback and informative. recently, she pooled that savvy
•NIKKIA JOY into Ultra Violette, a sunscreen
Lending her professional make-up tips to her dedicated which, thanks to its punchy
audience, beauty influencer Nikkia Joy heads up her own packaging and smart
eponymous beauty line of hand-crafted false lashes. formulation, is as at home in your
•EMMA CHEN beauty cabinet as it is on your
E R I K M E LV I N

A make-up artist by trade and relative newcomer to the skin. The future looks set to be
influencer arena, Chen’s following has exploded with her big for this budding brand
make-up videos, easy tutorials and downright likeability. launched in summer this year.

MARCH 2019 235

 GOTTA HAVE FAITH
Against a backdrop of growing agnosticism, Pentecostalism continues on a heady ascent – with
Hillsong the headline act. Richard Clune heads for Sunday service to try to understand the
increasing appeal of this home-grown mega church, especially among millennials.

I
t’s Sunday morning and I find my head bowed. Not in Service begins with song – poppy praise delivered by a band of 12, only
penance or prayer but in my surprise acknowledgment of a couple of whom look to have celebrated a 30th year. The auditorium
the black Acne Pistol boots marching just beyond, (church) now filled to standing at the rear, the congregation engages the
confidently navigating a path through a throng of lyrics, their voices raised in song just as their arms stretch skywards,
churchgoers gathered outside their place of weekly worship. palms open to receive the embrace of an allegedly Holy Spirit.
An expansive and converted warehouse behind car Many choose to confirm their attendance with photos shared via
dealerships peddling alluring European marques in an social media: #hillsongworship #jesus #faith.
inner-Sydney suburb that’s fast erasing its manufacturing Eventually, a welcome from pastor Natalie, “Nat”, and some
roots in favour of residential apartments, this is Christianity housekeeping about ticketing for the upcoming annual Christmas
wrapped in modern industrial chic. spectacular, only ever referred to as “spec”. There’s also talk of a
Up a few steps and past smiley greeters holding aloft circular signs – Christmas appeal for those in need, ‘Stuff the Bus’, and an impeccably
‘So Glad You’re Here’ – and into an airy reception area of more people well-shot trailer spruiking other church initiatives. It’s all very fresh.
and hugs and chatter largely exploring pending holiday plans. Pastor Nathan joins Pastor Nat on stage. He’s from nearby Waterloo –
A barista-stacked cafe looks to elevate this early morning flock of Hillsong’s other ‘city campus’ – and we’re gifted a live cross to his
largely 20- and 30-somethings who appear to favour a laissez-faire regular parish (as led this day by Nat’s husband, Georg) and some
‘Sunday best’ exemplified by Officine Generale-meets-APC. Further back banter about who has drawn the larger crowd. It’s all very pleasant.
sits a gift shop. On its walls, behind two cash registers, more signs (‘Gifts Nathan then takes ownership of this, the first of three weekly 1.5-hour
For Everyone’) and beyond, those same offerings made flesh: books, Sunday services at Alexandria. As controlled by various producers, his
spoken word and music DVDs and CDs; T-shirts, hoodies and $100 denim image is projected across the screens from three fixed cameras and
jackets, the embroidered left shoulders of which read: ‘Child Of God’. a single operator roaming the floor; his accompanying voice delivered
The outstretched hand of a 50-something man with crinkly-kind eyes via numerous speakers. It’s all very tech.
welcomes me into the auditorium, which, according to the original Nathan explores faith as grafted to personal story. His words – like
Sydney of City development applications, can hold 950 worshippers. his casual T-shirt/skinny jeans/hi-tops approach – are youthful,
It’s dark inside – not quite nightclub dark, although it’s still a tangible engaging, easy. He speaks of Indonesian surf trips “with the boys” and
sense of duskiness and one well-removed from the stain-glassed light of “climbing out of the friend zone”. God – “Father” – is “awesome”,
that tends to penetrate churches elsewhere. There are, in fact, no windows while the opportunity to come together in prayer, to be at church: “How
in this vast university lecture room of tiered seating rising from the floor cool is that!”
to frame a stage, behind which hang three enormous AV screens. The messaging may at times attach to specific scripture (Ephesians
I politely decline the offer of being personally chaperoned to a seat by 2:7; Luke 5:8) but it’s easily digestible, palatable and runs along thematic
another usher, instead heading upwards to a removed aisle and a family lines largely built on love, acceptance and faith-led aspiration: be true to
of three (mum, dad, teenage son) each sporting the same black statement yourself; fight fear; never give up; believe in God.
T: ‘New Life/One God’. From here it’s easy to view all who enter and the Nathan’s words are often met with a loud verbal applause in the form
ongoing work of those same ushers directing people to vacant seats – of an “AMEN” emphatically shouted from various sections of the
much like cinema attendants of old. It’s all very organised. auditorium, especially those closest to stage.

236
 “I ask now, friends, that you open your bibles.” And so they do, this Australian Pentecostal church members from nearly 220,000 in 2006 to
Sunday congregation reaching for smartphones to open an app on 238,000 in 2011 and 260,500 in 2016. Most are young, with Hillsong’s
which the Word of God – Testaments Old and New – resides. It’s all 2017 annual report claiming its largest age bracket, at 37.4 per cent, as
very slick. those between 20 and 34 years of age.
“Let us bow our heads …” And so I do. So does Bieber help? Or a front row stacked with other famous faces

A
– a marketing dream that is the likes of Hayley Bieber, Kendall and
miracle story. That’s how Hillsong founder Brian Houston Kylie Jenner, Kourtney Kardashian, Selena Gomez, Vanessa Hudgens,
neatly surmises the remarkable success the Sydney church Hailee Steinfeld and NBA star Kevin Durant.
he launched with wife Bobbie in 1983 has achieved. “I’m not actually a fan,” states Emma. “But I really respect anyone,
“When we started we were really just hoping people would like Justin, who is proud of their faith. When I used to go to my old
come next week,” Houston has said. “The worship has gone church, I’d hide my beliefs and was scared whenever conversation
further than we could ever imagine – it’s a story of God’s grace.” turned to religion. I didn’t want people back then to know that I went to
God’s grace and a side of impeccably curated and acutely managed church. Now, I’m not afraid of saying: ‘Yeah, I go to church, I pray.’
savvy. This is smartphone spirituality: neatly packaged to be shared and Because I’m part of something powerful.”
engaged on mass. That’s not to question the passion of true believers – nor Jen*, 20, scoffs at suggestion Hillsong is a religious cult. “That’s just
the perceived amelioration of the world, themselves, that their faith silly. This is an open church, we don’t have anything to hide, we’re not
brings – although the messaging here is unapologetically accessible and brainwashed, we’re not trapped, we’re not forced in any way.”
ultimately aligns with a dominant millennial ethos: personal aspiration. Even when it comes to money, a point oft-raised about what drives the
To truly understand the incredible depth of Hillsong’s attraction and engine room. “That’s actually bullshit … I think I’ve given about 20 bucks
engagement – youthful or otherwise – is to stop by a more ‘traditional’ since I first came a year ago. Giving is encouraged, but it’s not like you
Australian offshoot of Catholicism one Sunday morning. I did. It’s why have to. And so much of that money goes back to help others who need it.”
I know you’ll likely discover an ageing congregation of octogenarians Hillsong’s ‘donations’ – including tithes – accounted for 70 per cent of
and some suburban 40-somethings. Here, the messaging remains stuck, its 2017 revenue of nearly $110 million. Music came in next, contributing
unwavering in its arguably archaic focus on right and wrong, sin 13 per cent – or roughly $14 million.
and forgiveness. “The music has been a huge part of our story. When no-one knew who
“When I first walked through the doors [at Hillsong] a few years ago our church was, music kind of started to get a wide appeal in Christian
and saw what was happening – I don’t know, it was like a party and circles 20 years ago,’’ Houston has said.
everyone was just so happy and warm and nice,” Emma*, 26, tells Vogue. Bands Hillsong United, Hillsong Worship and Hillsong Young & Free
“I was actually raised in another church but was never really into it … I form a holy trinity that claims millions of global fans and even mainstream
never felt connected, it just didn’t resonate with me or what I was about.” acclaim. Last year Hillsong United’s What A Beautiful Name won a Grammy
Emma fell out with both her church and her parents, rebelled, and at award for best contemporary Christian music performance/song, while
16 engaged new friends and found a regular, recreational drug habit. 2013’s Oceans (Where Feet May Fail) spent a record 61 non-consecutive
At 23, a former friend from her old church invited her to experience weeks on top of the Billboard Hot Christian Songs chart.
Hillsong. “Yeah, the ‘happy clappers’ – I know that’s what people call “A good friend of mine saw me struggling a bit after I lost my mum [to
us, because that’s what I used to say myself. But then you get here and cancer] and dragged me along,” says Jen. “So I came to church and was
you’re surrounded by people your own age with people constantly just blown away by the production and the performances, this incredible
encouraging you to be your best, to do your best … that’s what it’s music and the warmth and the passion of everyone. That was really
about. And it’s not hung up on faults – it’s a very positive place.” what got me in … my faith journey sort of came along after that.”
It’s a point furthered by Hillsong’s most famous pastor – a swaggering Today, Hillsong’s reach extends well beyond song and service – a
rock’n’roll hipster by the name of Carl Lentz, a man whose phone holds dedicated 24-hour TV channel, YouTube network, annual international
Jay-Z’s number and who, through his establishment of Hillsong’s NYC conferences (attracting celebrity devotees) and teaching colleges among
church in 2010, became Justin Bieber’s spiritual guide. many other touchpoints that, like music, help further the brand and
“Our generation ran from church because it was about what you can’t magnify its youthful, accessible and positive messaging.
do,” Lentz, 40, has said. “If you go to church and all they talk about is As part of his 2016 BBC documentary series The Battle For Christianity,
sin, then they aren’t talking about the whole gospel. Jesus said to go British academic theologian Robert Beckford visited Hillsong and
give the Good News, and that’s what we’re doing [at Hillsong] … The subsequently mused on what he viewed as the reasons for its success.
heart of that message is, wherever you are living, whatever you do for “The churches we went to that were doing well had charismatic preachers
a living, it’s valid.” who are able to make the message clear, plain, accessible and practical,”
The messaging and all else on offer is clearly working. Because the Beckford said. “What we’re seeing is an appropriation of rave culture by
Hillsong church is a religious success story like no other – one that’s the church, so churches become a celebration and use music – lots of
gone from an original and solitary Hills District location to luring people jumping up and down, getting into the groove, shouting out
130,000 weekly worshipers across 21 countries, from Europe to South things … [And] Lots of young people attract lots of [other] young people.”
America, Israel, Russia and what is an expanding foothold in the US. Ultimately, Beckford points to the “powerful spiritual commitment,
Here, more than 40,000 attend 82 weekly services offered at 30 energy, devotion and piety that the leadership have. But it’s also married
different Australian locations. to a very savvy approach.”
At a time when Christianity is on a rather dramatic slide, That word again – savvy. Or, as Houston simply stated in his 2015
Pentecostalism – with Hillsong its headline act – is on a firm ascent. The book Live Love Lead: “People are not looking for stale religion.”
Australian Bureau of Statistics 2016 census mapped the increase of *First names used only, by request.

MARCH 2019 237

 INTO
THE
LIGHT
I
Riccardo Tisci’s t was a crisp autumn day when Riccardo Tisci presented his debut collection
first collection for for Burberry but, seated on rows of plush velvet chairs in a dimly lit, disused
mail centre, those of us in the audience might never have known it.
Burberry taps into In the months leading up to the grand reveal, the industry had been fervently
his own formative speculating as to how the former artistic director of Givenchy might evolve his
experiences as a gothic romance and Italianate aesthetic to suit a brand that has long revolved
young fashion around Bloomsbury Group frills and cultural nostalgia – and despite the
student in London comfortable furnishings and monogrammed silk scarves draped on each
to celebrate the best cushion, the darkly industrial set-up seemed more aligned with Tisci’s familiar
proclivities than the British bourgeoisie. But then the lights went down and
of Britain. By Olivia
the heavens opened: the curtain covering the warehouse roof rolled back to reveal clear
Singer. Styled by blue skies and illuminate the bright new vision for Burberry that appeared on the runway.
Dena Giannini. It was an inescapable metaphor: we were, literally, brought out of the darkness and into
Photographed by the light. “It’s a new dawn, a new day, a new story both for me and for Burberry,” says Tisci
Willy Vanderperre. with a smile some months later, sitting in the brand’s gargantuan headquarters. “I wanted
people to think: ‘Oh, he’s back with that same darkness.’ But, really, it’s about starting
again.” Starting again at Burberry is no small feat; this is not a quiet couturier, as Givenchy
was when Tisci arrived there in 2005, but one of the biggest fashion brands in the world.
Equally, Burberry is so deeply embedded in British culture that, when an Italian was
announced as the successor to Yorkshireman Christopher Bailey, after his 17-year tenure,
shockwaves reverberated through the industry. How could a man best known for his
bewitching glamour possibly understand our culture of restrained refinement? After all,
Burberry isn’t just about expertly crafted outerwear; it has dressed everyone from Kate
Moss to the Queen, equipped First World War soldiers for the trenches, outfitted George
Mallory for his Everest ascent and Ernest Shackleton for his trip to Antarctica. Not only
does it hold staggering commercial weight, it is emblematic of British identity. ¤

238
 While a southern Italian revered for his sensual
eveningwear and streetwear sensibility might first appear
a curious choice to re-establish this country’s aesthetic, it
somehow makes sense. In a post-Brexit climate, when the
very concept of Britishness is more fraught than ever and
disillusionment with the state of the nation appears at an all-
time high, Tisci’s outsider perspective is decidedly optimistic.
“For me, Britishness is an attitude, a strength, a confidence
and a freedom,” he says – and this is the country that
afforded him the latter, offering him a world of possibilities
“The moment I put my feet in London,
when he arrived here as a student and propelling this small- I fell in love. I realised, this is my place”
town Italian boy towards global success.
Tisci’s rags-to-riches story is so wonderfully romantic it
could almost be fiction. His parents hailed from opposite
sides of Taranto, a coastal city in Puglia; his mother,
Elmerinda, was born into the well-to-do Vetrano family,
while his father Francesco’s family, the Tiscis, were known
as “the beautiful but the bad”. After the couple fell in love
at first sight in the city square, their families forbade any
further interaction, but the two built their relationship
through furtive communication. Francesco would wait
each night by Elmerinda’s bathroom window and they
would whisper to each other through the grate. Soon they
had hatched a plan to run away together: Francesco would
save enough money for a single train ticket to Milan, and
Elmerinda, then 17 years old, would take it, follow his
meticulously detailed instructions and wait for him there.
So early one morning, without telling a soul, she departed
– and Francesco, unable to afford another train ticket,
spent the following weeks walking 600 miles to be with the
woman he loved. Once reunited, they moved to nearby
Como, where they built a house and started a family.
Elmerinda gave birth to seven daughters before finally
having Riccardo, their long-awaited son.
Then, just four years later, tragedy struck: Francesco died
and the family was plunged into poverty. Each of the eight
children had to work to sustain themselves and, by the age of
nine, Riccardo was working as a plasterer by day, while
helping his mother with piecework in the evenings. Any
time he did spend at school, he was reclusive – the southern
kid in a northern city, dressed in black, listening to The Cure
on his Walkman. “I was super gothic,” he remembers. “Back
then, in Italy, the 90s was the time of Versace, Armani; it was
made for rich people.” Alienated from that spirit, Tisci spent
his weekends touring Milan’s industrial club nights. It was
there he met Jake Chapman, then a young artist visiting the
city to find an agent. “He was so cool … and he painted this
picture of London, told me it was the place to be, that there
was freedom there.” Without speaking any English, with no
money and only the friends he’d made in clubs to guide him,
he left. “The moment I put my feet here, I fell in love,” he says.
“I realised, this is my place. “A young man set loose in 1990s
W I L LY VA N D E R P E R R E

London, Tisci was in his element. By day he worked as a hotel

cleaner, a security guard, a cashier and, later, a manager at
Monsoon. By night he’d go clubbing at Fruit Machine at
Heaven, or the Hippodrome on Charing Cross Road. ¤

MARCH 2019 241

“It was fantastic, amazing!” he exclaims. “I was with Leigh who most directly inspired Tisci’s first collection. Titled Kingdom, it sought to reflect
Bowery, Rift Ozbek, Kate Moss, Vivienne Westwood … all the assorted subcultures that comprise Britain – the bourgeoisie, punks, streetwear
these people I had seen before only in magazines!” After kids, city boys – and unite them on the runway, because “that’s what fashion should
stumbling across an advert for a two-year course at the be: every age, every culture, every lifestyle”, he explained backstage.
London College of Fashion, he applied – and was accepted. This was a celebration of the eclecticism that Tisci found so liberating as a teenager
The people he met there quickly spotted his skill and and, divided into three chapters (Refined, Relaxed and Evening), explicitly spoke to
encouraged him to move to the revered fashion design different facets of our society. “It’s very British, the idea that here you can find
course at Central Saint Martins. He was awarded a a mother who is aristocratic and super-chic, chic, chic – and then the daughter who is
scholarship, while the British government offered him crazy, who dresses however she wants.” In an industry that can often forget about the
income support. “It completely changed my life,” he says women who wear the clothes it sends onto the runways, there was something quite
now. “I started opening my eyes to who I wanted to be. It refreshing about the ‘refined’ propriety he presented: silken pussybow blouses,
gave me confidence. I loved it.” Tisci’s graduate show was a crisply cut camel-coloured day dresses, toffee car coats and slinky pleated skirts.
staggering success; his mother flew over to attend (she has “I was one of the pioneers who brought streetwear into fashion,” he says. “But, typical
never missed any of his shows since), and it was bought by of fashion, we went too far and now nobody recognises real design. You don’t only
avant-garde London boutique Kokon To Zai have young kids looking to buy clothes – what about ladies who want
(Tisci and his family made each garment by to look classic, who want to look chic?” These were outfits distinctly
hand to deliver their order). Those clothes, “I’m trying to find designed for that demographic. But rather than appearing staid, they
imbued with the sensuality he later made were saturated with the transgression with which Tisci is so uniquely
his name from, quickly found their way into again the freedom attuned: his leather skirts were cut almost fetishistically tight and
the pages of Vogue and were worn by of expression of there was a perverse severity to those croc-printed trenches.
everyone from Björk and Kate Moss to Janet Hot-blooded sensuality is part of his DNA. “My sisters are very
Jackson. It wasn’t long before Marco
the young glamorous, beautiful ladies. They’re sexy, they love make-up and
Gobbetti, then CEO of Givenchy, called and generation. People tight clothes, but they are also quite masculine in a way,” he laughs.
asked him to join the house as artistic
director. Tisci used the cheque he was given
are on standby as “They’re super-sweet when we’re at home wearing pyjamas and
watching television, but when they are out, they are like warriors.
to buy his mother her house, and then spent they don’t know Growing up, my mother taught us to never take any shit from anyone
the next few years devotedly transforming a what’s happening” – and that’s probably why my woman is so powerful. Remember,
business on the brink of bankruptcy into an we’re from the south.” Positioned alongside that subversive elegance
industry pioneer, presenting a democratic were the more traditionally Tisci designs, those which paid direct
vision of beauty (his were the first runways to determinedly homage to his teenage years: the ‘relaxed’ chapter comprising punk-inflected trench
champion inclusivity), while filling his front rows with coats pierced with metal rings, corsetry layered atop oversized shirting and lace slip
celebrity friends, including Madonna and Kim Kardashian. dresses inset with little barbell charms. The Victoriana that has long been a staple of
By 2017 Tisci was exhausted. He took a prolonged Tisci’s aesthetic appeared through screen-printed photographs applied to denim
sabbatical, travelling the world with his mother, nieces and jeans and deconstructed T-shirts; Shakespeare quotes turned into graphic slogans
nephews in tow, watching Netflix and sleeping – “lots of writ across handbags (“Needs must/I like it well! I weep for joy to stand upon my
sleeping”, he says. “It cleansed me as a human.” Offers kept kingdom once again” – an appropriate aphorism for his return).
coming in – and the industry’s rumour mill repeatedly If anyone knows how to inject youth into the veins of a house, it is the man who
named him for positions that came up in the interim. But it first turned sweatshirts into luxury fashion staples. Here was his reinvigoration of
wasn’t until Gobbetti, now CEO at Burberry, called that a brand that has spent years seeking to appeal to a new generation, and it’s already
Tisci considered a return to work. After all, “Marco was paying dividends: the early drops of limited-edition products arriving in store on
the person who discovered me; he’s like my father. He’s the the 17th of each month have been sell-outs. “I want to sustain the Burberry heritage,
person who made me decide; he is a great leader. He is but I also want to go with the times, with modernity,” he says of that evolution.
honest and he is ambitious.” That ambition is what unites “I want people to come to Burberry and buy a beautiful trench, a beautiful car coat,
them: it’s what first propelled their success at Givenchy, a beautiful suit, a beautiful evening dress, beautiful trainers. Not just one product;
and then drove Tisci to rebrand Burberry and design a 134- I want to make it more open, more democratic.” That diverse appeal is surely set for
look collection in the five months between accepting the job commercial success, and his understanding of how to dress different demographics
as chief creative officer and staging his first show. Within – men and women of all colours, shapes and inclinations – is what makes Tisci such
weeks, he had hired Peter Saville to rebrand the logo and a strong candidate to lead British design into a new era.
redesign its monogram, and recruited Vivienne Westwood, He’s yet to take a breath but he is electric with anticipation for a new chapter. In
a woman of whom he speaks with complete devotion, to these curious times, he notes, the capital seems quieter than it did during his last
collaborate on a capsule collection: “I wanted to celebrate stay here. “I’m trying to find again the freedom of expression of the young generation.
the amazing brain of England, and people like Vivienne Right now, people are on standby as they don’t know what’s happening – and
W I L LY VA N D E R P E R R E

and Peter have made this country what it is today – the whatever will be decided will bring both good and bad,” he reflects. ‘’But it will also
beauty, the avant-garde, the real individualism.” That bring certainty. Remember, after a crisis is always the best moment … I’m sure that
starting point proved fruitful. In fact, rather than the soon there will be freedom again.” Here was his own, united vision of a kingdom’s
Burberry archives, it ended up being those sorts of figures past, but, more importantly, its future. ■

242
Burberry coat with cape
detail, polo shirt, mini skirt,
hat, socks and shoes.
Hair: Anthony Turner
Hair colourist: Amy Fish
Make up: Lynsey Alexander
Manicures: Jenny Longworth
Set design: Emma Roach
Models: Rebecca Leigh
Longendyke, Kate Moss
and Anok Yai

MARCH 2019 243

VOGUE VOYAGE

Victorian splendour
on the streets of
San Francisco.

The lobby of the San

Francisco Proper
is filled with
Kelly Wearstler’s
vintage finds.

Bay and beyond I swapped bridge cycles and seal watching for exploring
parts unknown, and rediscovered San Fran’s truly
chameleonic qualities.
If you look past the glossy logos on the high rises and Accommodation-wise, it’s hard to overlook the
quaint cable cars, you’ll see the true enterprising spirit of San art-decorated walls of the Proper Hotel (properhotel.com).
Francisco lies in its emerging cultural pockets. By Yeong Sassall. A Kelly Wearstler-designed landmark straddling Market

I
and McAllister streets, the hotel is housed in a unique
t’s become almost a cliche to conflate the essence of San Francisco with a kind of flatiron building dating back to the 1900s. Inside, it boasts
tech bro culture, no doubt a result of the city’s proximity to Silicon Valley. Yes, colourfully graphic, Instagram-baiting decor and a
the greater Bay Area is known for incubating some of the most innovative seriously great rooftop bar named Charmaine’s. Styled in
companies whose products we use on a daily basis (Apple, Uber, Google, Netflix, Wearstler’s eye-catching bower-bird style, the boutique
Facebook et al), but San Francisco is so much more than just the sum of its clever tech hotel is located in an rapidly changing neighbourhood, but
parts. Perhaps owing to its counterculture history and youthful energy, there’s a once you step inside you’ll instantly be transported into
RICHARD LEE PEI KETRON MARK SARIBAN
vibrant culture of food, art, design and winemaking that’s just as boundary-breaking a salon somewhere in Europe. Designed to reflect the
and disruptive as any of the apps you might see on your phone. eclectic, progressive and liberal-minded vibes of San
A N S O N S M A RT A L E X A N D R A S PA R R

Stereotypes aside, it’s clear the city has been transformed by the flood of tech Francisco, it’s a comforting nightly respite from your daily
investment and can-do dynamism of its inhabitants, who are working to carve out explorations of the city.
new urban subcultures in every neighbourhood. From the Ferry Building markets While no visit to San Francisco is complete without
stacked with artisanal food stalls to the up-and-coming delights of the Dogpatch procuring a selfie in front of the scene-stealing bridge, a
area, if you venture beyond the usual tourist haunts it’s easy to see an entirely new stroll along the bay and even an afternoon at San Francisco
side to San Francisco – far beyond the usual Fisherman’s Wharf, Alcatraz and the Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA), if you’re willing to
Golden Gate Bridge triangle. As a second-time visitor to this famously foggy city, delve a little deeper, the Bay City is full of hidden surprises.

244
 OVER HILLS AND VINES
NEIGHBOURHOOD WATCH
Be sure to spend a leisurely morning exploring the
heritage sights of the Ferry Building marketplace, the
California-certified farmers’ market specialising in local
produce and artisanal goods. From there, head south to
Dogpatch, one of the oldest neighbourhoods in San
Francisco. Located just 15 minutes downtown via tram,
In the lobby the former industrial suburb has enjoyed a recent
of the Proper.
resurgence. Craft-beer fans should schedule a stop at
Triple Voodoo Brewery for a taste testing.

FOOD FIGHT
The city has no shortage of Michelin-starred restaurants,
but for a truly cult foodie experience, direct your map
towards the Mission district. Avital (avitaltours.com) offers
four-course walking tours of the area, dropping in at places
such as Mexican fusion joint West of Pecos, cheese (and
beer) sampling bar Mission Cheese, organic vegan Mexican
joint Gracias Madre (yes, the same one famed in LA) and
The Mission the iconic Bi-Rite ice-creamery. Don’t forget to pop into the
District is Dandelion chocolate shop for a cocoa fix, and join the
street-mural
crowds outside lining up at Tartine bakery, which
central.
is renowned for its sourdough and croissants.

Come evening, China Live’s casual market-style dining

The Proper’s eclectic lobby
hub is a portal to the city’s best Chinese. Grab a whisky
restaurant, Villon. cocktail upstairs at Cold Drinks before descending
downstairs and tucking into a modern banquet. Up for
something even more laidback? Parklab Gardens in
Mission Bay is a creative reimaging of a fledgling urban
space that blends gourmet food trucks and bars with
outdoor games and a nearby urban mini-golf range.

SNEAK IN SOME SONOMA

Sonoma County is an easy hour’s drive from San
Francisco, making it an stress-free choice for a day trip.
The wine region itself is huge, offering high-end cellar
doors such as Ram’s Gate Winery through to smaller
outfits like Russian River Vineyards, which also boasts
a lush on-site garden that warrants a stop for lunch. If
you’re staying overnight, book a table at Valette in the
picturesque town of Healdsburg. Owned by two brothers,
the restaurant is a love letter to Sonoma County produce
and wine, and is also located opposite the three-Michelin-
starred Single Thread. If glamping is your jam, consider
spending a night at Boon Hotel & Spa (boonhotels.com),
a tiny, charming hotel nestled in close proximity to some
of Russian River’s ancient redwood forestry.

GETTING THERE
Qantas introduced direct flights between Melbourne and
San Francisco in September 2018 to complement its direct
flights from Sydney. QF49 departs Melbourne four times
a week on a Dreamliner. It’s worth it just to avoid the
hassle of a harried transit through LAX. Go to qantas.com.

MARCH 2019 245

VOGUE PROMOTION

YOU’RE
INVITED
Join Vogue and in demand experts
for an exclusive look at beauty
trends, products and treatments.
The Vogue Beauty and Anti-Ageing Event in
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latest from industry insiders (see panel, below)
on the ways to reboot your beauty routine.
The event includes morning tea and a buffet
lunch, plus there are also more than $16,000
worth of door prizes. On the day, there will be
Ghd blow-dries; Estée Lauder makeovers;
Australian Skin Clinics skin treatments and
skin analysis by an expert from Arete Aesthetics
medi-spa; plus treatments from high-tech
companies such as Cynosure and Venus Concept.

THE EVENT INCLUDES MORE

THAN $16,000 WORTH OF
LUCKY DOOR PRIZES.
EVENT ESSENTIALS
Date: Saturday, April 6, 2019
Time: 9am – 3.30pm
Address: Savoy Ballroom,
Grand Hyatt Melbourne,
123 Collins Street, Melbourne
Tickets: $85 plus booking fee
All attendees will receive a gift
bag valued at more than $450.
Book: www.voguebeauty2019
melb.floktu.com

EXPERT SPEAKERS

Dr Sean Arendse Dr Malcolm Linsell Dr Shobhna Singh Dr Frank Lin Dr Jeremy Wilson Becky Watkins Uros Mikic Nica Marcello
cosmetic physician specialist cosmetic physician specialist specialist vice-president, creative director national education
plastic surgeon plastic surgeon plastic surgeon global education, and Ghd expert manager,
SkinCeuticals Estée Lauder
 VOGUE SOIR ÉE
3.

The cream of Australia’s New York-based creatives were

united in January to celebrate Elle Macpherson and Simon
Baker, who were honoured at the 2019 American
Australian Arts Awards. Hosted at Skylight Modern by the
American Australian Association, the event, which was
presented by NAB in partnership with the Pratt
Foundation and Bird in Hand, served to recognise the
notable achievements of a number of Australians.
Former honoree Laura Brown (editor-in-chief of US InStyle
magazine) presented WellCo founder, supermodel and
businesswoman Macpherson, who was accompanied by
her son Flynn Busson, while Hugh Jackman presented
fellow actor and new director Simon Baker this year’s
awards for their contribution to the arts.

and singer Zoy Frangos.

Ajak Deng, Bridget Malcolm, Aleyna FitzGerald, Bambi
Northwood Blyth, Jordan and Zac Stenmark, Margaret
Zhang, Matt Price and Jess Dunbar. – Melissa Hoyer
CARL TIMPONE

1. Hugh Jackman and Deborra-Lee Furness. 2. Ajak Deng. 3. Simon Baker, Naomi Watts and Rebecca Rigg. 4. Bridget Malcolm. 5. Elle Macpherson and Flynn Busson.
6. Naomi Watts. 7. Margaret Zhang. 8. Rebecca Rigg and Simon Baker. 9. Shanina Shaik.

MARCH 2019 247

VOGUE PROMOTION
 Aries Taurus Gemini

HOROSCOPES

March
21 MARCH – 20 APRIL 21 APRIL – 21 MAY 22 MAY – 21 JUNE
You’re supercharged now, but This month you’re a full-on force If your love-life needs a reboot,
also more aware of your own of untameable nature. Your explore ways to make it more
vulnerability, so cut yourself entourage could start to include fulfilling. It may just need minor
some slack and extend that more bohemian types, and love adjustments or you might call it a
courtesy to others, as emotions with an unusual or work-related day. Try some new moves if you’re
around friendships and romance admirer could also arise. Such solo and searching. Use this
may be running high. What feels major changes to your routine month to work things out and by
right most likely is right, so trust might deplete your energy now, next month you’ll have a solution.
instinct over intellect. That said, so put extra time into taking After recent confusion, your career
keep a cool head around money. care of your body’s needs. is gathering pace, too.
STYLE ICON: Jessica Chastain STYLE ICON: Cate Blanchett STYLE ICON: Angelina Jolie

Cancer Leo Virgo

22 JUNE – 22 JULY 23 JULY – 23 AUGUST 24 AUGUST – 22 SEPTEMBER
Conflicting priorities have made Plans to unite may be powerful Partnerships that may have taken
it tricky to decide what to do, but this month. If things have been a step backwards start to flow
now you get the go-ahead. Home on and off with a work or again now. Close connections
might not be where your heart is romantic venture, there’s been will move forward if you look at
this month, and branching out good reason for the delay, so them from a fresh perspective.
may hold more appeal. Avoid proceed with caution. Work may Put yourself in someone else’s
confusing the dream with reality be erratic and hectic, but tapping shoes for insights into how you
and be prepared to make into the extra energy that’s ‘do you’. Money wells may be
adjustments to perfect your available to you now will also about to run dry, so be extra-sure
vision of how life could be. make it more exciting. to track your spending.
STYLE ICON: Selena Gomez STYLE ICON: Cara Delevingne STYLE ICON: Beyoncé

Libra Scorpio Sagittarius

23 SEPTEMBER – 23 OCTOBER 24 OCTOBER – 22 NOVEMBER 23 NOVEMBER – 21 DECEMBER
If you’ve been overdoing things If you’ve spent time simplifying Get in touch with your inner
with both work and pleasure your home life, the pay-off now child this month, but make it
you’ll need a lifestyle makeover is a new lease of pleasure, love your playful child rather than the
this month. Invest in wellbeing, and creativity. Those close could one prone to tantrums. You may
as loving yourself makes it easier be difficult, but navigate through have more responsibilities at
for others to love you. Money or the waves on your own ship of home now, so balance it out by
intimacy could get intense, but serenity. What’s holding you keeping contact with friends
going to extremes could undo back? Those dark thoughts and and ambitions. You have more
all the good work you put in, old emotional wounds may resources and tenacity to boost
so tap into your inner Zen. heal sooner than you think. your health than you realise.
STYLE ICON: Alyssa Sutherland STYLE ICON: Rachel McAdams STYLE ICON: Taylor Swift

Capricorn Aquarius Pisces

22 DECEMBER – 20 JANUARY 21 JANUARY – 18 FEBRUARY 19 FEBRUARY – 20 MARCH
Things start to feel good chez vous Life moves forward and money Feeling all at sea lately? The tide
this month. You might resolve may seem to magically multiply. turns in your favour now. You’re
a dispute with neighbours, patch It’s partly from a new sense of more decisive than usual; a
up a sibling quarrel or simply abundance, but also by realising safety net of charm graces you
decide to merge with what and what you need to do to feel with the power to be who you’ve
A S T R O LO G E R : S T E L L A N O VA

who is close to home rather than financially secure. You can be always thought you were meant
seek adventure further afield. A a money and love magnet if you to be. A natural joiner, you may
surprising new attraction might be ditch old attitudes, reboot your do better independently rather
the motivating factor. Your career friendships and ambitions, and than hooking up with others in
could reach a peak now, too. open up to new opportunities. money or business ventures.
STYLE ICON: Georgia May Jagger STYLE ICON: Amal Clooney STYLE ICON: Jessica Biel

MARCH 2019 251

 ARVIA ACTIVE SASKIA JOY
Searching for fashion forward Driven by a passion for designing
active wear? Look no further than elegant, chic jewellery that has the
VOGUE AUSTRALIA DIRECTORY

Arvia Active for stylish cuts, and power to transform any outfit,
tropical prints. Saskia Joy combines simplicity and
You can also mix and match active delicacy with bold and dramatic
styles with swim wear in the same statements creating signature
prints when shopping online. pieces that are a must every day,
every night and every occasion.
Exclusive to Vogue readers:
Take 20% by using code YOGA20
at check out.

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arviaactive saskia_joy
arviaactive.com saskiajoy.com

ONE PALM STUDIO MJ COSMETICS

Before you check in at the travel
desk do yourself a favour and check KISS KISS Velvet Lips
out One Palm Studio.
Long lasting, highly pigmented and
The store boasts a curated a creamy matte finish. Available in
collection of ready-to-wear fashion, 10 shades.
luxurious French Luggage,
jewellery, footwear and designer Mj Cosmetics, Australian owned
brands in one place. and operated makeup retailer,
designed and used by Award
Exclusive to Vogue Readers, we Winning makeup artists nationwide.
offer 15% off any order using code
VOGUE15 at the checkout.

onepalmstudio missjaynecosmetics
onepalmstudio.com mjcosmetics.com.au

CARLABELLA DESIGNS
Carlabella is dedicated to raw
beauty, combining elements of
current looks with a focus on
natural fabrications and distinctive
hand drawn prints inspired by far
off places, textiles and most of
all colour.
Exclusive promotion code for Vogue
readers. Use code ‘VOGUE15’ FOR
15% off your first order.

carlabelladesigns
carlabella_designs
carlabella.com.au
BY SAMANTHA
Are you annoyed with how ‘standard sizes’ just never fit ? Do you find it THE BEAUTY OF
TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL 1300 139 305

frustrating shopping for dresses that don’t flatter your body? Oh girl, We COCONUT
hear you! We understand that you are unique and clothing should be
made to fit your unique shape. Natural beauty essentials brimming
We created By Samantha Melbourne to empower women of all shapes with the goodness of organic
and sizes to feel comfortable and sexy in their own skin. Our Melbourne- coconut oil & powerful natural
made wrap dresses are designed by women for women so forget about ingredients.
fit and sizing frustrations because we make flattering wrap dresses in Designed to nourish, hydrate &
sizes 6-22. It’s our mission to make shopping for wrap dresses easy and protect your skin and hair leaving
we believe that you know what you like, so every wrap dress is custom you with a healthy glow.
made to your preferences. Simply choose your sleeve and skirt length Free from toxins | Cruelty free |
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Our friendly customer service team are available for assistance 24/7.
Use code ‘VOGUE20’ to save 20%
Head to our website to view our latest collection and order your By
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SENSORI +

THE AIR WE BREATHE, THE LIVES WE LEAD

VOGUE AUSTRALIA DIRECTORY

Every minute, we breathe in 8 litres of air. Every
24 hours, we spend more than three quarters of
the time inside buildings or cars. Indoor air
quality is a critical factor to our wellness.

Sensori+, a brand founded by a group of young

nature lovers and wellbeing advocates, has
launched the first premium home fragrance
range that elevates your sensory experience
beyond smelling good.

With the exclusive green technology, Sensori+ Air

Detoxifying Aromatic Mist differentiates by
eliminating harmful airborne toxins and malodor
without synthetic scent-masking. Alcohol free,
plant-derived and non-irritating, Sensori+ gives
you peace of mind while enjoying the all-natural
scent in your house, office or car.

Discover an Australian fresh air experience with

Sensori+.

Available at sensoriplus.com.au and selected

MYER stores (all CBD/Chadstone/Macquarie
stores)

Exclusive 10% off Vogue offer

Shop online using code VOGUE10

sensoriplus
Sensoriplus.com.au

HER BANANA GET INTO FASHION

Please yourself with STYLING
contemporary jewellery that
is designed in Newtown, Work as a freelance fashion stylist or
Sydney and handcrafted within the main branches of
with artisanship at the Her professional styling including TV,
Banana studio. The beauty advertising, photo shoots, wardrobe
found everyday in life is and image consultancy. Phone the
captured and shaped into Australian College of Professional
pieces that will be worn for Styling for a free course guide today.
years to come. Bespoke
designs are available. 1800 238 811
Enjoy 15% off with code AustralianCollegeOf
‘VOGUE15’
ProfessionalStyling
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Herbanana.com AustCollegeProfessionalStyling.com

STICKS + STONE

Luxe style, celebrating Natural,

Organic & Repurposed fibres,
designed & constructed in ethical
hubs of creativity.

Made in Australia.
MARCH 2019

20% off for Vogue women, available

on-line now. Use code ‘VOGUE20’

STELLA TALEB
For the Romantic, Feminine & Dreamy. sticksandstone.thelabel
Stella Taleb stellataleb stellataleb.com.au sticksandstone.com
 ZEBRANO | FASHION FOX & WILLOW
SIZES 14+ BOUTIQUE
Exquisitely designed clothes and a Fox & Willow have worked hard to
VOGUE AUSTRALIA DIRECTORY

selection to die for... collect some of the best labels from

Australia in one place.
Select from Australia & NZ’s top Mingle on our website to create a
labels in sizes 14+. Mela Purdie, 17 unique place that covers every kind
Sundays, Chocolat, Obi, Curate by of taste and personality out there.
Trelise Cooper, Moyuru, Megan
Salmon, Euphoria, NYDJ & so We stock labels such as -
much more. Mossman, Three of Something,
White Label Noba & Gysette.
Get your new seasons fashion fix
delivered to your door. View hello@foxwillow.com.au
lookbooks, discover trends & shop.
foxandwillowboutique
zebrano.com.au foxwillow.com.au

LOLA MINDI THE SPIRIT OF BOHO

Lola Mindi is your all occasion all
Australian Womens Boutique The Spirit of Boho showcases some
located in Central Victoria. of the industry’s best independent
jewellery designers. Key to the
Our curation of on trend versatile offering are minimalist and delicate
and effortless pieces will take you designs sourced from a range of
from day to night with ease. local and international labels.
Stocking Casual Wear, Occasion
Wear, Footwear & Accessories.
Exclusive to Vogue readers 15% off
Exclusive Offer for Vogue Readers every order in March using code
15% off your first order. “Vogue15”.
Use Code: VOGUE15

lolamindiboutique spiritbohojewelry
lolamindiboutique thespiritofboho
lolamindiboutique.com.au thespiritofboho.com.au

RUNFASTER TAZZANNA
RunFaster believe that healthy
looks different on everyone, they Tazzanna currently offers over 55
make high quality stylish activewear brands online and in-store, with
and their pieces are versatile, established brands exclusive to us
comfortable & functional across Australia and New Zealand.
Every woman deserves to look & Our unique approach to beauty
feel fabulous in their active wear & means that when you spend $80 or
that’s why they have an inclusive more on our exclusive products,
size range of XS-3XL (4 to 26) your service is completely free!
10% off for Vogue Readers.
Use code: VOGUE

runfastergear tazzannabeauty
runfastergear tazzannabeauty
runfastergear.com.au tazzanna.com.au

AUSTRALIAN STAGE ONE FASHIONS

TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL 1300 139 305

WHOLESALE OILS Fashion & Accessories for every

occasion. We can take you from a
Essential oils for the Autumn Fall! casual lunch to a formal wedding.
Select from Australian and
The best nature has to offer. As International designers. Labels
Autumn brings forth cooler months, including Mela Purdie, Binny, Sacha
crisp air and falling leaves - it’s a Drake, Verge, Frankie & Dash,
perfect time to enjoy diffusing & Cooper St, Very Very, New London,
blending with our warming Honey & Beau, Goondiwindi
Essential Oil Bottle sets. Cotton, and many more.
20% off for Vogue readers using Exclusive to Vogue readers 15% off
code ‘VOGUE20’ first order using code VOGUEMAR
stageonefashions
AustralianWholesaleOils stageonefashions
awo.com.au stageonefashions.com.au
 AAINA & CO
aaina & co’s curated collections are
designed to embrace and reflect

VOGUE AUSTRALIA DIRECTORY

the wearer’s inner beauty of their
natural soul.

The unique designs are simple but

edgy, elegant, yet down to earth.

10% off for Vogue readers

Use code: VOGUE10

aainaandco
aainaandco
aainaco.com

BELLE COULEUR
Australian luxe leather and hide
accessories label.
Make a style statement with our
stunning Madeleine bag.
Each piece is an original designed
DURANCE to be uncomplicated in form and
function with an emphasis on the
Womens boutique retailer in the hub of High Street, Melbourne. Paving raw beauty and unique detail of the
the way for best quality and style in imported fashion, shoes and natural hide and leather.
accessories from abroad. Shop at our new location in Armadale, Victoria. (Visit bellecouleur.com.au/vogue
to access special Vogue offer)
972 High Street Armadale 3143, Melbourne, VIC, Australia
03 9500 2227 or 0447 001 244 Belle Couleur
Durance Armadale bellecouleur_accessories
durancearmadale bellecouleur.com.au

GLORIA DULCIE
Refined yet poetic, Gloria Dulcie is
an ethical luxury line focused on
creating timeless investment
pieces. Favouring classic lines and
subtle details the label is relatable
and considered, a reflective
interpretation of modern woman
with echoes of a nostalgic whimsy.
Aligning creative rhythm with
environmental sustainability, all
pieces are made in Australia from
100% natural or recycled fibre
fabric bases.
gloria_dulcie
gloriadulcie.com

BRILLIANT CO
Breathtaking collections of
exquisite jewellery, watches & gift
sets, embellished with
SWAROVSKI® Crystals, Sparkling
CZ & Fine Gold Plated. THIRD BOI
Easy 100 Days Returns.
Free Delivery above $59. Third Boi offers the latest in comfortable, quality basics and casual wear
Flexible Payments. for everyday. Its winter collection introduces rich hues of fig and clay
MARCH 2019

into the core palette whilst the protea all over print is a nod to Australia
Bonus Gift with purchase: and its native florals. Focus on function takes the fore with a range of
Crystals from SWAROVSKI® cosy pocketed sweats, joggers and hooded cardigans. Complete with
Earrings (Value $39). Use “VOFG” Third Boi’s signature trims and flattering silhouettes.

brilliantco.com.au thirdboi third_boi

brilliantco.com.au thirdboi.com.au
 L AST PAGE

ART DIREC TION D IJANA MAD D I SO N ST YLING PH I LI PPA M O RO N E Y

PHOTOG R APH EDWAR D U R RUTIA

A L L P R I C E S A P P R OX I M AT E D E TA I L S AT VO G U E .CO M . A U/ W T B
WORDS: AL CE B RRELL

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