Zeiss Ikon Nettar I II
Zeiss Ikon Nettar I II
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CONTENTS 4
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THE NETTAR AND IKONTA CAMERAS... 4
i
The Nettars
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... 4
The lkontas ... 5
The Lenses ... t2
The Shutters l1
Viewfinders ... t8
Rangefinder for Nettar and lkonta 20
HANDLING 2l
Loading 2l
Shooting 22
Unloading 28
FOCUSING 30
Depth of Field 30
Control of Depth of Field 30
Zone Focusing 33
Hyperfocal Distance and Depth of Field Tabtes 34
Hyperfocol Distonces 34
Depth of Field Table for 7.5-B cm. Lenses 35
Depth of Field Table for l0.S-12 crn. Lenses 36
EXPOSURE 46
Exposure Toble for Doylight 47
The Right Negative 48
tl 49
CLOSE.UP WORK
C/ose-Ups with 2tx3f, in. lkonto ond Nettor ... 50
Close-Ups with 2f,x2f, in. lkonto ondltx 2t in. Nettor 5l
Close-Up Depth of Field Toble ... 52
FLASH PHOTOGRAPHY s3
How to Use Flash ... 53
Speed-Synch ronized Shutters 54
Suitoble Shutter SPeeds for Flosh 56
The Correct Aperture 57
Apertu res w ith F I ashb u I bs 57
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SUBJECTS IN FRONT OF THE CAMERA 58
l
Landscapes 58
Portraits 59
1
Children 6l
Animals 62
Sports 63
Shutter SPeeds to Arrest Movement 64
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The Nettar and the lkonta are roll film cameras of the
folding tlpe, fitted with a variety of lenses and shutters and
taking di-fferent picture sizes. They are d_esigned to suit the
diverie requirements in dimensions, performance and price
of the amateur photographer.
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It should be stated this stage that lkonta models are
numerous and widely varied. They include, in addition to
the simple roll film cameras dealt with in this guide, more
advanced models with built-in rangefinder, and miniature
cameras for 35 mm. film. These are the subject of separate
Camera Guides.
Both the Nettar and the lkonta have been produced over
a period of almost twenty years. They have in th.e course of
tiine undergone changei in construction and been fitted
with improvements. An)r significant change in the develo.p-
ment oi these camera models is covered in this guide,
though minor alterations which are of no material con-
sequence, may not always be listed.
The two cameras were constructed with particular regard
to simple and quick handling and ability to stand up to hard
wear. Yet they are of the smallest possible dimensions
consistent with full efticiency.
The Nettars
Basically, the Nettar is a standard roll film model equipped
with a rairge of lenses from the inexpensive to the medium
priced, and fitted with appropriate shutters.
l. THE 2*'ltx 3* in. NEfiAR will take 8 exposures on standard 120
size film. has an all-metal body with hinged back and is connected
with leather bellows to the self-erecting front. Focusing is done by
means of the front cell. The camera is also fitted with a brilliant reflect-
ing finder and direct vision frame finder, and is covered in black
teitherette. The early model (Code 51012), was fitted with an f 7.7
Nettar lens in a 2-sp'eed shutter, with or without built-in delayed
action release. {
fts successor (Code 5l5l2r, was similar In design. The earlier modefs
of this were without body release. Later ones had this addition, but
a!l were fitted with faster lenses and speedier shutter, namely the Nettar
f 6.3, f 4.5, or f 3.5, or Tessar f 4.5 in Derval, Klio, Telma, or Compur
shutters.
The early post-war camera,s were equipped with Vario, Pronto, or
Prontor S shutters.
In 1952 this type was redesigned and marketed as the Nettar ll. lt
was more streamlined, had an optical direct vision finder built into the
camera body (Code 517l2l, and a Novar f 6.3, or f 4.5 in Vario, Pronto,
or Prontor SV shutter was fitted as well as a depth of field indicator.
2. THE lf x 2f in. NETTAR takes 16 exposures on standard 120 size
film and has similar specifications to the 2f x 3i in. model, but is with-
rt out brilf iant-reflecting finder. The early model (Code 510) was fitted
with a Nettar f 6.3 in a Derval shutter. lts successor (Code 515) was of
t nearly identical design but fitted with the f 4.5 Nettar in a Klio shutter,
first without, later with, built-in body release. This model has not been
re-introduced since the end of the war.
3. THE 2l x 2! in. NETTAR was first introduced towards the end of
f 938 (Code5l5ll6), and was designed for 12 exPosures on_standard 120
film. lt is of the same design as the l$ x 2f in. Nettar (Code 515) and
fitted with a Nettar f 6.3 or f 4.5 in a Telma or Klio shutter. Early post-
war models were equipped with Vario, Pronto, or Prontor S shutters.
rl In 1952 the redeiigned 2f, x 2f in. Nettar was introduced on the
market as the Nettar ll (Code 517ll6l. This was more streamlined, with
an optical direct vision finder built in, and fitted with a NovarF6.1 9f
f 4.5'in Vario, Pronto, or Prontor SV shutter. lt also has a depth of field
indicator.
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The lkontas
The lkonta is the somewhat more de luxe counterpart of
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the Nettar, with superior body finish and lenses of high
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Performance.
l. THE BABY IKONTA is intended for 16 pictures lf x lf in. (3 x
4 cm.) on standard vest-pocket film (127 size), and is o{ the smallest
possible dimensions, I x'2f x 3fr in.,'weighin! 12 oz. The body is all
inetal, with hinged back and is finished in black enamel, with nickel-
plated fittings; -the fully self-erecting front gives perfect rigidity.
Focusing opelates by meins of the front cell from 3 ft. to infinity. The
finder ii of ihe folding direct vision frame type. Leather bellows connect
the camera front to the back.
A variety of lenses from the f 6.3 Novar to the fast f 3.5 Tessar have
been fitted in shutters ranging from the simple two-speed to the
I
elaborate Compur Rapid. A-tripod bush is let into the camera body.
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This model was discontinued in 1938.
t'- The Code No. of the Boby lkonto is 5201t,8. 5
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CURRENT NETTAR MODELS (Page 4)
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CURRENT IKONTA MODELS (page 5)
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The 2[ x 3[ in.
lkonto takes 8 ex-
posures on standard | 20 fi lm and is
very similar in construction to the
original 2t x 3* in. lkonta. The
brilliant reflecting viewfinder has
been discontinued but a body release
is fitted. Also a double expoiure lock
is built-in to avoid two or mor€ €X-
posures on one frame of film, Code
No. 521/2.
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In | 939 the masking device was dropped. (Code No. of thcse lost versions
s2t
--pbsi-war
12.)
models are similar. Those produced since 1950 have coated
lenses and flash-synchronized shutters' (Code.No. still 5]l l2').
'-i"
lgSf this m6del was replaced by ihe lkonta lt (Code No.523-l2l'
which has an optical finder iristead of'the folding one, a depth of field
indicator, and an accessorY shoe.
i. rHe i+ x + in. IKoNTA will take 8 exposures, 2{ x 4l in.(6.5 x
ll i
cm.) o'n Z+ +l in. film on metal spool (616 size). The dimensions
of this'model are i3 x f1 x 7$ in., weight 30 oL.
- From 1936 on tt hlas be6n fittid with aiecond film window and mask
allowing 16 exposures, 2$ x 2{ in. (5.1 x .0.S..f.) to be ,made' lts
qeneraid"scription is the-same-as that for the 4.5 X 6 cm. lkonta (see i
ibove) exceDt that it is fitted with two finders: the direct vision eye
ievel-6pttcai and a reversing reflecting (-britliant). {lagt^, This model
was distontinued in 1939. fFe Code No. oithis model is 520115.
The Irenses
The lenses of the Nettar and lkonta are not interchange-
able and consequently neither telephoto. nor wide anSle
lenses can be usbd. The only oPtical suPPlementary equip-
ment employable consists of converging me.niscus lenses
which all6w the camera to be set at nearer distances than
would be possible with the unaided lens (see p. 49).
THE NOVAR is a three-lens, air spaced, anirstigmat, made in three
apertures: f 6.3, f 4.5, F 3.5. lt has a good standard of definition over
if," n"g"ti;" fieid even at full ap6rture and is gradually improved
t"t ""tii"
rtoppea down to f 8. lt is suiiable for all general photographic
"n
work.
tte f 4.5 lens, being twice-as {Tt-T f 6.3, allows work under un-
tavouiiUte light ionditions. The f 3.5 lens is again gl.nP:t twice as fast
as the f 4.5 lins and almost four times as fqt as the f 6.3. Novar, and can
uiefully be employed for taking photographs in particularly poor light,
of fast movingiuSlects, in sporti photographYr etc.
TtlF NETTAR, fitted to earlv
THE NFTTaR- early Nettar iarireias,
cameras. isis of similar construc-
tion to the Novar and was also made in f 7 .7 .
iHE ifSSAn is a four-tens ani$tigmai, front component air spaced,
back component cemented. lt is accepted throughout the world as a
ii.t'-.|'..'.,ntiral design.
high-class'optical dcqion- The definition considered very good even
definiti6n is con
at-full apertlre, covering the negative
covering.the negative.fully an{_gvenly illuminating it to
fully and
"t?rtt
the veri, corners, ana iin"t gr"it.brilliaricy.. The bdst performance of
"p"rtirre,
in" furi"r is given around f 5.6; the correitions remains undiminished
aiimaller apErtures. Tessars of varying aPertures are built into the
t2 lkonta.
The Tessar f 4;5 may be called a universal type suitable for all average
exposures inciuding lindscapes, poftraits, street scenes, etc., except in
conditions of poor light.
The Tessars'f 3.8 ana 1a.S are almost, twice as fast as the f 4.5 Tessar.
They have the same fieid of application but are also suitable for more
unfavourable light conditioni,- fast moving subiects, sPorts photo'
graphy, etc.
sh utter ch
wh p;;;i;;h irotge r+frer to ap ihe
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p,eat-il:h u p hotog raph
himself. To usei'nJ "'l
ii.fii",i actioi rLlease, set camera in the usual l
ii'L" i-iigid support, best a tripod. Press down the
i way and mount isthe lever with a .tJ
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NETTAR AND TKONTA LENSES AND SHUTTERS (pages t2, a4)
Viewfinders
The present models of the lkonta and the Nettar are fitted with
built-in, direct vision optical viewfinders. Earlier models haveafolding'
type finder which sprihgs automatically into position on opening the
camera.
Alternatively, the front frame should be pulled towards the front of
the camera, when the back sight will spring into position.
In cameras with mask for two picture sizes, the finder also carries
a mask which has to be lifted up io reduce the field of the finder for
pictures of half size.
' Brilliont Finder: Some early models of the Nettar and the lkonta have
also been fitted with a brilliant finder, a reflecting finder fixed to the
shutter holder, which is used at waist level. Looking down into this
finder one sees a brilliant image, upright, but laterally reversed. The
finder can be turned through-9o" ind- can therefore be used also for
the horizontal camera position. The top of the finder shows a square
with a small blocked-out square in each corner. For horizontal photo-
graphs only the horizontal rectangle excluding the blocked-out corners
is uied, while for vertical photogiaphs only the corresponding upright
image counts.
Liter models of the Nettar and lkonta are not fitted with a brilliant
finder but carry a finder support on the top right-han-d side of the lens
holder, into wliich a detachbble reflecting finder may be inserted.
The latest versions of these cameras, with the built-in oPtical finder,
have no provision for a brilliant finder, with the excePtion of the l$ x
2*- in. lkonta.
Atbodo Finder: This is an optical viewfinder built into some earlier
lkonta models, in which the actual field covered by the camera is
indicated by a white boundary line which seems to-be iustas far.away
as the subi6ct. As some part-of the surroundings of the field to be in-
cluded on the negative-outside the boundarf line-remains visible
through the finder] it is possible to keep an eye on these surround.ings
at the- same time. Thii is of particuiar vaiue when photographing
moving subjects.
The-actuil handting of the finder is the same as described previously
for the direct vision finder.
tn cameras with mask for two picture sizes, the finder also carries
a mask which has to be lifted up to reduce the field of the finder for
18 pictures of half-size.
NETTAR AND IKONTA ACCESSORIES
Coble Releose
with locking
device for
Reflecting Finder to
long time ex-
posu res for
view image from low
models fitted
viewpoi nt. Usefu I
for photograPhing with 'tB" set-
chi I d ren.
ting only.
Reflecting Finder fits
on accessory shoe on
top of the camera.
i
As guess work in estimating distances is unsatisfactory, t
particularly with wide apertures, and the use of a taPe .:1
Shooting
l. Open camera front.
2. Check that film has been transported.
3. Set distance.
4. Set aperture.
5. Set exposure time.
6. View the image.
7. Release.
8. Wind on fllm for next exposure.
9. Close camera.
t. Press the front-opening button to release the camera front, which
will spring into'proper taking position (hence the name "self-
erecting" camera). The camera should be tilted slightly forward
asit is opened. There is no need to retard the quick-opening tnov€-
ment by applying the hand as a brake (as some users do) to Prevent
the film from being sucked forward out of its focal plane. The camera
is fitted with bellows ventilation which prevents the film from being
pulled out of true when the camera is opened.
2. in the modern models with double exposure lock no special check
is required as the shutter cannot be released unless the film has
been wound on. When using an older model without this device it
is advisable to adhere strictl)' to the sequence of operatlons given
(see No.7, above). Then the film is always wound on after exPosure'
thus confusion and uncertainty will be avoided.
3. The distance is set by rotatins-the front cell of the lens, the scale of
focusing distances b6ing eng[ved on the outside of the lens front.
Turn the lens front until-the distance figure-representing the
distance from the back of the camera to the subiect to be photo-
graphed-comes to lie opposite the index mark fixed to the shutter
casing.
22 The distance between camera and subject can be determined
LOADING THE NETTAR AND THE IKONTA (page 2l)
ilffiilllll
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ilffi- @q
Top left: Open the camera back.
Top centre: Place the empty spool in the chamber below the film transport knob.
Pull out the spring for this.
Bottom left: Wind the film until No. I aPPears in the film window.
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HOLDING THE N ETTAR AND THE IKONTA (page 26)
I $ x 2[ in. models .' For hori-
zontal pictures hold the camera
with the right hand from above,
while the thumb of the left hand
rests on the body release. Support
the lower part between thumb
and index finger.
a"finiti"n. On th-e other hand, if oni has a steady hand and a chance
of leaning against a wall or-even !9t9er{ suPPorting the carnera
on someihitg firm, not only the l/25 but also l./10 and even l/S-sec. I
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SHOOTING WITH THE NETTAR AND THE IKONTA (page 22)
Centre: Set the shutter by turning the speed ring, and tension the shutter.
Centre right: Sight the subject through the finder and press the shutter release to
Unloading
l. Wind ofr paper end.
2. Open camera back.
. 3. Rdmove exposed film.
4. Close camera back or reload with new film.
l. After all exposures have been taken, wind on the film key until
the paper end disappears in the film window on the back of the
. camera, and finally give a further three turns to the key to wind
the paper fully on to the take-up spool.
2. The camera back is opened as described on p.21, No. l.
3. Remove the film by pulling back the spring stud on the bottom of
the camera and lift the film out of its chamber. Keep it firmly
fastened by the gummed label adhering to it and keep it wrapped up
until it is developed. ':
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'^^ 1. Close the cameri back as described on p. 22, No. 6, or reload as t
28 instructed on p. 21. {
UNLOADING THE NETTAR AND THE tKoNTA (page 28)
Top left; Turn the transport knob to wind off the end of the backing paper.
Top right: Open rhe camera back.
Bottom left: Pull out the spring and remove the roll of film. Seal the film
immediately.
Bottom right; Close the camera or reload with new film (page 2l).
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FOCUSING
Depth of Field.
The lens is focused at some definite distance. This means
that its position relative to the.film is ad.ju.sted in such a
way that whatever is exactly at the focused distance will be
,.pr.r.nted by a "sharp" image on the film. Everything
else-everythi'ng nearer to the camera or farther from it-
will be, stiictly-speaking, "unsharp".
In practice the'declin6 of definidion is, of course, $radual.
Thus there is a zone-stretching from somewhere in front
of the focused distance to somewhere behind it-which -1
The depth of field indicator shows clearly how much gf tllg subj-ect will be sh.1p
at any given aperture and distance setting. The depth of field itself varies according
to the listance and the aperture. To facilitate accurate indication pairs of aPerture
numbers are engraved facing the distance scale. The figures on the distance scale
opposite any twt similar aperture figures indicate the near and distant limits of
thd depth of field at that aperture. In the example shown, setting the lers to
l5 ft. dsing f 4.5 gives a depth from 12 ft. to 25 ft., at f 16 ffgry 9 ft.^to infilily-.
When the-tens is set to 6 fi. the depth of field ranges from 5| ft. to 8 ft. at f 4.5
and from 4t ft. to | | ft. at f 16. (See also Page 30.)
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fens of 7.5 or 8 cm. focal length of a l$ x 2! in. or Zf, in. sq.
lkonta or Nettar.-only. T-here remiains ihe inteiplay dr
"aperture" and "focusing distance". Their effect cari be
read off on the depth of field table on p. 35-36.
Let us assume we are working with f 5.6 and the rens is
set to I ft. We find in the horizontal column f 5.6, above
the bold distance figure g, G-g* and below g-gj.', and so the
rang€.of focu.s strerches from 6ft.9* in. to 9 ft.9! in. When
working with rhe lens set at the sime distance 6f g ft., but
with apertjle f.3.5, the range of sharpness will exrend
only.from 7.ft.2[ in. to 9 fr.0-+ in., whili aperture f g will
produce a sharp area from d ftl +y in. to lO ft. 9 in. Note
how we.can var)r the area of sharpness by playing with the
stop, without changlng the setting of the disiance: the
smaller the.stop the-larger the. depih of field. So the stop
(apertu-re) is one of the variables by which a convenient
zone of sharpness can be obtained.
The other one ir, olt course, the distance setting. Let us
compare the de-pth values for, let us say, aperturei5.6 at a
distance first of l0 ft., then of 20 ft. and iastlv 50 fr. we
learn that in the first case the depth of fierd st'retches from
8 ft. lf; in. to 12ft. ll in. in the s6cond case from 13 ft.9 in.
to 36 ft. ll in.; and in the last case from 2l ft.3 in. to o
(inftnity). So we see confirmed that the depth of field
grows as we set the lens at distances farther'and farther
away from the camera.
. f ncidenyally,
front
we also conclude that the depth of field in
of the focused distance is always more limlted than the
depth gained behind it. With the iens set ar r0 ft. we ser
!* rt. depth in front of the focused distance and almlst
3 ft. behind it. At 20 ft. we ger over 6 ft. in front of the
focused disrance and 17 ft. behlnd it. At 50 ft. we get27 ft.
in front and to co in the rear.
,^With,gf". l?ng9r.foc.a! length lens 10.5 cm. (4$ in.) to
12 cm. (af in.) of the 2* x 3J in. and 2* x 4* inl moders
the.depth of field is somewhar-reduced (s-ee tab-le on p.36).
, The co.mparative shallowness of the depth of field i;
32 front of the focused distance will sometimes make it neces-
sar)r-e.g. in landscape ph.otography, where the subjea
ma), have to include much foleground-to set the iens
nearer than the main point.of
.interest lies, in order to gain
additional sharpness t6wards the foreglound whire coveiing
the majn.point of interest by the depth of field behind thE
focused distance. This trick, however, must be used with
moderation. lt should be recalled, that the widerv herd
idea that everything.is equally sharp within the depth of
locus area and completely unsharp outside these liririts is
quite wrong. There is a gradual decline of sharpness even
withi.n. the depth of field areas. Critical ..pin-point"
definition can be expected only in the plane actualiy focused.
so care should be taken to plate the focus as near is possible
lg th9 spot on whi_ch. the-greatest sharpness is r6quired.
Thus in the case of distant-landscapes dse shourd not be
made of the hypgrfo.col distonce. (discribed below) if rhe
sharpness is.required in the far distance; focusing af the far
distance will give better results.
When a lens is focused on such a distance that the depth
of freld just reaches the far distance (infinity) then the lbns
1
I is focused on the "infinity-near-point',' 'or hyperfocal
distance. This setting of focus'is adviiable when it fs'desired
{ to secure adequate sharpness from the farthest distance
to as far as possible in the foreground, rather than extreme
sharpness in the far distance only (see table on p. 34).
I Zone Focusing
On the Nettor ond the lkonto 2[ x 2t in. and some lg x 2* in. models
there is a red dot between f s and f ir on the apertfru tiilu ;"J 33
NET_C
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30 ft. on the distance scale. lf both distance and aperture are set to these
red dots everything from l3 ft. to infinity will be sharp.
On the 2{ x 3i in. ondZt x 4* in. models a red dot will be found on
the aperture scale between f ll and f l6 and on the distance scale at
about 33 ft. lf both distance indicator and stop indicator are set to the
red dots--everything from obout 16 ft. to infinity will be shorp.
HYPERFOCAT D'STANCES
(For conversion into metric units see page 651
This ls the approximate focusing distance giving the greatest possible
depth of field from the foreground to infinity.
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4
FITMS AND M,TERS
Colour Sensitivity
The ordinary emulsion is only sensitive to violet and blue
light, and therefore is bound to give an untrue black-and-
whjte rendering..of subjects containing yellow, green and/or
red (as practically all objects do).
An improvement has been made in the orthochromotic
emulsion which is sensitive also to green and yellow, while
the.ponchromotic film has been made sensitiv6 not only to
violet, blue, green and yellow, but also to red. Sbme
particularly fast panchromatic films are over-sensitive to
red and will render this colour too light.
The advantages of having a negative material sensitive to
all colours-violet, blue, green, yellow and red-are so ;
striking that it
was evident that the genuine panchromatic i
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Speed .l
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The sensitivity of film materials to light in general is !
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be paid for by possible disadvantages of the materlal in some
other respect. To call the fastest film the best would be
Ju1 q.foolish as to select a racing car for daily motoring.
While a scientifically correct conversion of one speed
rating s)rstem to another cannot be made owing to their
different principles, the following list gives some guidance
as to their practical relationship.
ln this table each value represents twice as fast a film speed as the one
immediately above it. In some systems this doubling of fiim speed means
p9-r.9asin-g the speed number by 3 each time (Scheiner, BS Log. lndex,
qlN), while in others the film speed itself is'directly proportional to
the speed 1qm-ber, and therefore inversely proportionil to the exposure
required (BS Arith. lndex, Weston, G.E., H. & D.).
SLOW FILMS of less than about 26" Sch. can be usefully employed for
scientific photography, copying, architectural details.' Theii main
advantage is tlgir extremely fihe grain, making special development
to cope widh live
unnecessaD/. Their- disadvantage is their inability-lighting
subjects in other _than exceptionally favourable conditions,
lack of latitude and, in most cases, hard gradation.
MEDIUM FILMS of 26-29" Sch. are the right material for the beginner,
and can be well employed for any of the avtrage subjects. Their-advan.
tages are: reasonably fine grain without the use of too complicated
methods of development, correct tone rendering, good r6solving
power.. Disadvantlges: further loss of speed if fine lrain developmeni
hal!9 be employed and sometimes steep gradation.
FAST PAN FILMS of 31" Sch. and dver are for high-speed shots,
interiors, stage pictures and night photography. Advaniagei: increased
sensitivity_to.red (artificial light), use of smaller apertules (depth of
focus). Disadvantages: graininess which, however, can be improved
aA by special methods of developing (at some cost of speed), and somewhat
JU uneven tone rendering (reds too light). $
I
PICTURE SIZES FOR NETTARS AND IKONTAS
/-
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Grain
_ silver g.rainsthemselves form the picture in the emutsion.
To the naked eye.they form a compact, dark mass, but under
the. magnifylng- glass-or microscope the separare crumps of
grains are vis.ible. obviously, if the grain of a negative is
coarse' it will soon become visible in an enlargemEnt, and
the finer the structure of grain, the gre"t"i degree of
magnification will be visible without the-appearance-of any
u.npleasant granular effect in the print. As a idre, it can be sail
that the grain size is in direct relation to the speed of the film
. (p. 38). _The faster the film, rhe coarser the grain and vice
versa. The grain can to a certain extent be influenced by
development- (fi ne-grain developm"ntj, u*p*rr", etc.
Gradation fi
Every film has an ability of its own to reproduce various
'the
i:Sr9es of brightness. on its emulsion. lf ability of a
film is confined go olly a..small number of black-greylyn6ir"
tones' we speak .o.f . "high contrast" or harii negative
material. lf it is. able to reproduce many delicate shaies of ii
Lratitude
Latitude is the ability of the-film to yield usable negatives,
even with a certain amount of under-'or (more often-) over-
exp.osure. Films praised for particularly wide latitude may
facilitate exposure, but are iikely to have ress "resolvini
power", causing loss of definition,'which in big entargementi
is just as unpleasant as graininess.
.help negative material has a number of additionar
9urtowards properties which
good results. There is a special "proteciive coating",
a hardened gelatine layer on. top of the ictual sensitive layer which
protects aglinst scratches. The base has a coloured backing in order
40 i?"il::l:"i.":ff| g":iL"r'i,t"li;'J'"g through the emursi6n on the
\*-'-,*.,r.".
CHARACTERSI,CS OF SOME FIUqIS
Speed Field of
in Grada- Applico-
l,/loke TyDe Scheiner Groin tion tion
Agfo:
lsochrom o
lsopan
lsopan
F
ISS
F
P
R
7?:
32o
',:,
mg
n
n
n/s
A
A
B
Dufoy:
Ortho
Pan
Ensign:
o
P I3: IE
n
n
A
A
F. G. Pan P 27" ef n A
Ultrachrome o
Ultrapan
Ferronio:
R 3?: lE,
n
n/s
A
B
,^
i|6 film for use in daylight.
+
I
The Use of Filters
The photographic film, even when orthochromatic or
panchromatic, fails to render colours in their true black-
and-white tone values, so that the photograph often giu",
qyiq". a false impression of the real icene.-The explanition
of this discrepancy is the following.
s.peaking, to.the human.eye yeilow appears
--scientifically
to be over ten times. as bright as blue, thiee iimes as'bright
as red, and one and a hali times as bright as green. fh"
average. pancf rglnatic film -howevjr,
.(see p-. 3Z), registers
blue with a brilliance of about four-hfths that of y-ellow,
tt green yitt.one-third and red with two-thirds of the'bright-
l
ness of yellow.
It is, therefore, evident that in order to obtain a colour
rendering which shall correspond ro the impression of
'i' colours .as .perceived by qhe eye-(with_ some degree of
accuracy), the relative sensitivit.j of bur film to the various
colours will have to be correcred. This can be achieved by
I
the use of filters.
Filters are employed correct on our negative material
-tg
.various,degrees. of brig.htness of the ictual picture.
th_e
()n the whole they lighten obJects of their own col6ur and
darken those of thericomplemenra.ry. colour (".g. yellow
filter will darken the blue'of the ski). They'miy "b6 used
to obtain a colour rendering in our"picture'whiih corres-
ponds more closely to the i-mpression made upon our- eye
by the object; her6 we speak of ,'correction filiers". -t -
. Fifters
lor
may afso be employed to produce certain effects;
Instance, our pictu.re.can be made to show heavy clouds
against a particularly dark sky, whereas the actuat landscape
only light clouds in a blue sky. Filters employid
I:":il:d
to such ends are termed "effect filterst'.
All filters cut out certain parts of the light and an increase
,j exposure time is.always nece_ssary ilhen using ttrurn.
Exact
.figures can^only be'given for 6ach particulir ;r;;
according to the film used, for the exposure ratio aepenas
not only on the nature of the fitter but also on the cblour 43
rL _ .**id&'. .-,+j.s-,
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l
x
f
consider.ing that photographic exposure and devefopment
are hardl)t ever scientifically controlled processes, even in
the hands of very careful workers.
FILTER FACTORS
Polarizing Fitter
There are times when the judicious use of reflections wiil enhance
the. pictoriat effect
9f.tl9 pictgi'.e, but they are arso i;;q;;ili), outiusi"e
and undesirabte. Highty-polished subjeits, foi;r#;1";-;re difficult
to illuminate successfully sb as to obtairi a.true pt otolr'"pii. ,"nJ"ri'g,
since they.will reflect tbo.much right and spoil itre-i'epiod-uction
with
a glare. wh!9h obscures the detail ro overcome this difffur;y ;h;
polarizing filter has been introduced. lt consists-oi'" t"yu. of
hera-
pathite' cemented between
.two. opticar -frat g_lasses. rd suppresses
Ii iil'.' :x! i:: i: ffi ';ii';*i'. fl ',.1'f; il,} Ii,
8l:lss, chtna, enamel, polished wooden surfaces, *ater, vibrate
J :''* i xi{:. - *:*
" to a
.(i.e. it is polarized) and ian,'ti.,ururo.",-ue
large extent, in one. p.iane
almost extinguished byplicing the' polarizi;g-filt;;"in-'ii," correcr
position.over the lens. This filier wili prove p-articularly useful when
taking shop windows, furniture, photoiraphirij ;;;bl'".;s, erc.
I ne frrter has to be rotated to find out its belt position
on the lens.
It is^simply held in-front of the eye, tt"n-il6*li i"t":t"a. Then
Ene fllrer must De stipped over the lens"na in the position selected. As the
polarizing filter is tihted, the exposure time ihould u" incieued.
the
racror oetng aDout three times. 45
-,"**'-
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EXPOSIJRE
Moy Nov.
June Aug. Sept. Oct. Dec.
July April Morch Feb. Jon.
ll a.m. to 2 p.m.
9 a.m. to ll a.m.
2 p.m. to 4 p.m.
4 p.m. to 6 p.m.
4. | + 2 * 3: "Value"')
Result (sum of Tobles
Value 6 7 I 9 t0 tl ,2 t3 t4
Seconds l/50O I l25O l/100 l/50 | l2S l/10 tl' tlz I
Value 15 16 17 18 19 20 Value 2l 22 23 24
Seconds 2 4 I 16 30 60 Minutes 2 t6 4r
r.*
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The Right Negative
The photographer who shoots haphazardly, relying on
the latitude of modern films, just like a snapshotter with a
box camera, does not deserve and will not get better pic-
tures than the man with that instrument.
The employment of some exposure help is strongly
recommended to secure negatives suitable for considerable
enlarging. The negatives must be sharp, have fine grain and
show a well-balanced gradation.
The beginner will be particularly well advised to use the
exact exposure time suggested by his table or meter and
to employ straightforward methods of development; that
is to sa)r, a developer giving fine grain without loss of
emulsion speed. ln this way he will achieve negatives with
the best definition for a reasonable degree of enlargement.
It should be borne in mind that the latitude allowed for
under-exposure by any film is very small indeed, while on
the other hand the old rule rather to over-expose does not
hold good for small negatives, as an over-exposed negative
will as a rule show more grain and poorer definition.
Further, the shutter speed must not be selected solely
to give a well-exposed negative, but should be kept short.
Short shutter speeds are important in counteracting the
danger of camera shake. Even the slightest shake will
result in less crisp definition. Practical experience goes to
show that l/100 sec. is safe, while one has to hold the
camera particularly steady when using l/25 sec. or even
l/50 sec. (see also p. 26). Short shutter speeds are also
desirable to arrest movement of the object.
Bearing in mind that the next bigger aperture (smaller
number) allows one to halve the shutter speed should
make it easy to arrive at a suitable compromise between
a stop yielding sufficient depth of field (see p. 30) and
still short enough a shutter speed to exclude camera shake
and to arrest movement. ll for example, one has found
that the right shutter speed is l/25 sec. at f 8, the corre-
sponding shutter speed at f 5.6 will be l/50 sec. and at
48 f 4.5 U 100 sec.
CTOSE-I'P WORK
While l$ x 2f in. and 2* x2[ in. Nettar and lkonta
models generally focus down to 3.5 ft. and the larger models
to 7 ft., one can work still closer with the Proxar lenses.
Where the original lenses are not available any photo-
graphic dealer or optician will be in a position to supply a
range of meniscus type lenses of suitable size for the right
sort of filter mount, and which will serve the same purpose
as the original lenses with the same efficiency.
These close-up lenses can be applied to all t)'pes of near
distance photography such as plants, objets d'art, small
creatures, table top work, copying of books, documents, etc.
Mount the camera on the tripod, and approach the subject
until it appears the desired size in the viewfinder field.
According to the distance, place the appropriate Proxar
lens on the lens mount. Then measure accurately the dis-
tance between the front of the Proxar lens and the centre
of your subject and look for this distance In the focusing
table on page 50.
Besides the special Proxar lenses, a range of meniscus
lenses in suitable mounts can equally well be used. The lenses
suggested are *l diopter, +2 diopters, f3 diopters. The
distances obtained with these lenses are:
With +l diopter, from 39f to 20{. in. (100 to 5l cm.).
With +2 diopter, from 20 to l3 in. (50 to 33 cm.).
W,th +3 diopter, from l3 to l0 in. (33 to 25 cm.).
When working with these lenses the distance should be
measured from the front of the supplementary lens to the
subject. No increase in exposure is called for, but it is
advisable to stop down to f 5.6 when using them.
The tables on p. 50 give the distance at which the lens has
to be set, when used with the Proxar lens, to obtain sharp
focus at a given distance of an object.
The depth of field, when working at very short distances,
is rather limited. The table on p. 52 gives a clear indication
of the depth of field to be expected at various working
distances and apertures.
NET_D
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CTOSE-UPS WITH 2t x 3* in. IKONIA
ond NETTAR
j (For conversion into metric units see p. 66)
f . Proxor 0.5 or + 0.5 diopter lens
@ 7e* 43 x 65f
50 68* 37t x stt
25 6ti 33f x slf
t5 s4* 291 x asl
t2 s0* 27[ x att
9 44* 24 x 36t
6 36 tet x Tet
5 32+' t7[ x 26t
@ 3e* 30 x30
50 36* zftxzft
25 34* 26f x 261
l5 32 24[ x 24i
t2 30+ 23i x 23[
9 28* ztt x ztt
4 2t* lsf x 15$
rrhe field size for l$ in. x 2f in. negatives has the same length as
given, but is only two-thirds as *ide. 51
,.*r..-
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FIASH PHOTOGRAPTTY :
,.1
,i
.. .,,-. .,- - .. , .--;', /
For use, connect the flash lead from the flash gun to the
flash socket on the shutter. Set the synchronizing lever and
the delayed action lever (except at the X-setting) to the delay
time required. Set the aperture and shutter speed as usual.
Put a bulb in the flash gun, focus, and release the shutter to
fire the flash and take the picture.
With the M-setting the delayed action lever must be
reset for every exposure. At X no resetting is needed.
With the X-setting you can use the delayed action release
in the usual way if you want to appear in the picture yourself.
At the M-setting the delayed action mechanism is part of the
synchronizing system and thus cannot be used for its original
purpose as "delayed action".
THE SPEED.SYNCHRONIZED SYNCHRO.COMPUR
shutter has two synchronizing settings which are set by
means of a synchronizing lever.
For the X-setting move the synchronizing lever to position
X. The shutter closes the flash circuit at the moment when
rthe shutter blades are fully open. This setting, which is
similar to the normal synchronization of the Compur-
Rapid shutter, is suitable for electronic flash at any speed,
and for flash bulbs at speeds up to l/25 sec.
For the M-setting move the synchronizing lever to position
M. The shutter closes the flash circuit l6-18 milliseconds
before the shutter blades open, to allow for the firing delay
of most average flash bulbs. This setting is suitable for
normal flash bulbs at all shutter speeds up to l/500 sec. The
M-setting will not synchronize electronic flash or Speed
Midget type bulbs which have a firing delay of 5 milliseconds.
For use connect the flash lead from the flash gun to the
flash socket on the shutter. Set the synchronizing lever to
the appropriate position. Set the aperture and shutter
speed as usual. Put a bulb in the flash gun, focus, and release
the shutter to fire the flash and take the picture.
The table on p. 56 summarizes the shutter speeds at which
most flash bulbs on the market can be synchronized with the
various synchro-settings ofthe Prontor SV and the Synchro-
Compur speed-synchronized shutters. S
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SUITABLE SHUTIER SPEEDS FOR FI.ASH
Sylvania: SF.
Philips: PFS.
6 ft. (2 m.) t6 t6
8 ft. (2.5 m.) t2.5 t6
l0 ft. (3 m.) t0 r2.5 ;
l2 ft. (3.6 m.) I tl t6 l6
l5 ft. (a.5 m.) 6.3 9 il t2.5 t6
20 ft. (6 m.) 4.5 6.3 8 l0 t2.5
25 ft. (7.5 m.) 4 5.6 6.3 I tl
30 ft. (9 m.) 3.5 4.5 5.6 6.3 9
Landscapes
To the user of the Nettar or the lkonta who carries his
camera as a constant companion, landscapes will offer a rich
variety of pictorial opportunities. There are, of course'
pitfalls,
- too.
The typical picture postcard view with wide oPen fore_-
grounds and distant background rich in diminutive detail,
is a somewhat thankless subject. When it is reduced to a so
much smaller size than it appears to our eyes, it may drop
altogether beyond the resolving power of the film Par-
ticularly when over-exposed. Much more easy to take are I
small sections of a landscape with a pronounced foreground. :,
Portraits
Proper pofrraits should have roundness and have no
disturbing'background detail. This calls for critical.focusing
and widJ apertures. Avoid going too_ close. The most
suitabfe working distance is around 7-5 ft.
--As-uotrt
iiin?iri bacLground-should be carefully S9
"no
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controlled, it is often easiest to work indoors In artificial
light. The Nettar or lkonta user who has never tried his
hand at artificial .light photography may suspect that a fair
amount of complications will be involved in this type of
photography. But nothing js simpler and more satiifying
than using these cameras indoors.
Two Photoflood lamps in reflectors are all you need. The
background for portrait work is formed by a'plain-coloured
waJl g. a piece of dalf or.light cloth hung from the picture
rail. The sitter should be kept away fromlhe background as
far as possible-as a rule abdut 3 fd.
. The exposure time with two lamps will be reasonably
short-e.g. with the lamps about 5 ft. from the subject and i
medium pan film of 29" Scheiner, it will be l/25 sei. at f 4.5.
A good way to hold the camera is to straddle a chair,
supporting th9 camera on the chair-back, and so do awa),
with the need for atripod. This position ensures ar the samb
time that the camera is about at the eye-level of the model.
lf the camera looks down on the sitter, the picture would
show a foreshortened skull and diminutive ch'in.
. Full figure portraits can be shown with advantage from a
low angle.
. The use of high s.peed pan filmsof excessive red sensitiviry
is not very advisable, as faces are likely to turn out too pald.
lf you have to use this type of film, usd also a pale blue filter.
Candid portraits outdoors can be obtained most easily by
zone focusing. But wherever possible, focus accurately'ani
!I:e a yvide. aperture. to keep the background unshari. A
blue sky, darkened by a yellow filter, will make a suitable
background; or a plain-coloured house will serve the same
PUrPose.
Avoid direct sunlight; the diffused light of an overcast sun
is better for life-like portraits. The high midday sun is
particularly.bad as it will produce hard-shadows cutring
across the characteristic lines of the face.
- -Apart
from. holiday snapshots of a purely record rype-
Mum and Dad on the pier at Brighton-try to avoid includ-
60 ing half the surroundirig countrys-ide in a p'ortrait. A photo- 'j
{
'*
graph can be a poftralt of a percon or a picture of a landscape
but not both at the same time. So get close enough to
include only your model-your camera permits you to do
that-and ignore everything else.
The background can so easily spoil a portrait. lt may be too
fussy, and detract the eye. Often it is not enough to keep the
background out of focus. Pinpoints of light shining through
foliage will be magnified when they are unsharp, and a
harshly-lit brick or stone wall, even when out of focus, can
still be very obtrusive. So try and find a fairly plain back-
ground.
lf the sun is bright keep your model as farfrom the back-
ground as you can. lf you don't there will be unwelcome
shadows on it which can spoil the picture. Great masses of
black are bad but they are avoidable.
Use a fast shutter speed, especially when taking head-and-
shoulder portraits. You must avoid camera-shake at all costs,
and you can afford to use a large aperture since the depth of
field need be as little as twelve inches. Focus on the eyes,
and don't over-expose.
Children
lf you don't want posed and sentimentally arranged
pictures of children (which after all do not require a
technique different from that applied to normal portraits)
you will have to work inconspicuously. Af low for the child's
attention to be diverted by keeping the camera at some
distance. Let the children play, while you play with the
camera; set the lens to a suitable focusing zone and watch
until)rou are sure that the camera does not attract attention,
then shoot quickly. This not only produces life-like child
studies but also includes some of the surroundings.
Do not worry about using comparatively slow snapshot
speeds (e.g. because of a small aperture needed for depth of
field), as slightly blurred outlines due to sudden movement
wi||notshowunp|easant|ybutactua||yaddtothelive
appearance of the shot. 61
www.butkus.us
Avoid looking down at chlldren with the camera; it
dwarfs them in a ludicrously unflattering manner. Low
angles are strongly recommended-get right down to the
floor if possible
After a while, children will become used to your presence
and will take no further notice. Sometimes, though, it is
useful to be able to shoot from the waist without looking
through the viewfinder. To do this you need practice in
aiming the camera and in knowing how close to get to
objects of various sizes so that they fill the film.
You can't afford to be too fussy about things like back-
ground and composition. The chances of everything happen-
ing just the way you want it to are Prett), slim. So when you
see the action you want, press the release. You may wait
all day and not have the chance again.
Taking photographs of children indoors need not present
any problems. There is less room forthe child to move about
in, which simplifies the task. Adequate over-all lighting
gives mobility.
Animals
The technique is the same as for children. tC; ;;;;
focusing or pre-focus at some point at which the animal is
likely to be, and shoot when its picture appears in the finder.
When taking animals behind bars or wire netting at the
Zoo, bring the camera lens right up to the barrier, letting
it look unobstructed through it.
Posing animals is not an easy job. A dog will not willingly
permit himself to be dressed up.in a collar and tie nor will he
consent to smoke a pipe unless he is extremely well-trained.
A cat has similar and even more pronounced views on the
matter.
But by simple psychology you can arrange a fair degree of
action.
lf you want a picture of a dog chewing a bone, by way of
simple example, get a dog, get a bone, put them together
62 and there's your picture.
lf you want a picture of a cat stalking, dangle a. piece of
string out of camera range, and the cat is almost bound to
stal k.
Sports
It is not advisable to attempt photographing the whote
field ol let us say, a football ground from a great distance.
It is more practical to look out for the possibility of get-ting
close-up sections-for example, concentrating on one of the
goals.
- As mostly the very short shutter sptltids are required to
arrest movement, it is hardly ever Possible to stop down
considerably for depth of field. Nor will you, as a rule, have
sufticient time to ihange the setting of distance while the
game is on. Consequently, the camera should be set at some
iiistance where interesting action is likely to occur-in our
example 2 or 3 yards from the goal mouth.
Wiih other siorts the distanie setting is often simplified
as action is confined to some definite point which can be
pre-focused.
' More often than not the success of a sPort photograph
depends solely on pressing the release at the right moment.
Select the most iriterestihg phase of the action, and look
out for "dead points" of hovement, which allow slower
shutter speeds. Such "dead points" occur whenever a
movement changes its direction because at such moments
the action comeJto a standstill for a fraction of a second.
The actual shutter speed required to arrest movement
depends on the speed of the subject, its direction of move-
ment, and its distance from the iamera (see table on p. 64).
The best sports pictures are usually possible onlywhen you
'are
familiar with the game. Then you will be less likely to be
taken unawares by unexpected excitement.
Sometimes there are two speeds of subject movement to
be considered. A cyclist may be travelling at 30 m.p.h., but
his feet are moving iluicker than that. A shutter speed which
will stop his forwird motion will still show his feet blurred.
Use ihe fastest film in the camera and develop in an 63
www.butkus.us
SHUTTER SPEEDS TO ARREST MOVEMENT
The values given are for movement across the view of the camera.
For motion at 45 degrees to the view of the camera increase time
100 per cent. In other words, if the motion photographed obliquely
approaches or moyes eway from the camera the exposure time can be
twice as long, say l/50 sec. instead of l/100.
For subjects coming directly towards, or going away from, the
camera, increase the time by 300 per cent. In other words, in such a
case the exposure time can be four times as long-say l/25 sec. instead
6{ of l/100.
energetic developer which needs no extra exposure. For
very bright subjects like winter sports or sailing, slower
film may be used.
Filters are not usually necessary, but if the light is good a
yellow filter will improve the tone rendering of outdoor
shots.
65
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