(SOP) Standard Operational Procedure Date of Issue: 02-01-2023

Revision No: 00
Process – Fabric Inspection, Shrinkage Test Serial/Ref No:

and Blanket making Format Ref

RAL/TQMS/SOP/003/23

SOP – Fabric Inspection, Shrinkage and Blanket.

Performed By: - Fabric Inspection Team.

Responsible Department - Fabric Inspection Team.

Purpose:

- To cut the required quality full fabric.

- To cut the fabric as shrinkage with appropriate pattern.
- To control the shade.

Scope:

- To be done just after the fabric is in-housed.

Equipment:

- Fabric inspection machine

- Measurement Tape

- Scissor

- Template

-Marker

-Sewing Machine

-Alter Sticker

-And necessary format

Procedure:

FABRIC INSPECTION PROCEDURE

4 Point System

a) Quantity selection for the inspection.

 If the fabric quantity is 1000 yrds or less : 100% inspection
 If the fabric quantity is: 1001 yrds to 10000 yrds: Minimum 1000 yds.
 If the fabric quantity is 10001 yrds or more : 10% inspection
 Selection of fabric rolls : From the total number of rolls
 10% must be randomly selected from each color, dye lot / batch and each shade if available
(If the fabric quantity is more than 10001 yrds)

b) Penalty Points Evaluation – Defects in both the wrap / fill or course / wale directions are assigned
points using the following criteria.

Size of Defect Size of defects

Penalty Points
(imperial) (metric)

1 3” or less 75mm or less

2 3” to 6” 75mm to 170 mm

3 6” to 9” 170mm to 230 mm

4 Over 9” Over 230 mm

** Any kind of hole is given 04 Penalty point.

The Four Point System observes following basic grading rules…..

 No more than four penalty points may be assigned for any single defects.
 No more than four penalty points may be assigned to one linear yard /meter, regardless of the
number of defects found within that one yard / meter.

c) Point Calculation ( Imperial ) –

All textiles are evaluated on a square yard computation. The formula used to determine the point
count level of a roll of fabric is as follow:

- Total Penalty Points in Sample X 3600 = Penalty Points per 100 sq. yd.

Sample Yardage X Sample Width (inch)

d) Point Calculation( Metric ) –
All textiles as evaluated on a sq. meter computation. The formula used to determine the point count
level of a roll of fabric is as follow:

- Total Penalty Points in Sample X 10,000 = Penalty Points per 100 sq.m.

Sample Meter X Sample Width (cm)

e) Defects marking and reporting :

Any major defects that are being given 4 points will be marked on the defective points as well as at
the edge of the fabric using a red sticker. All these red stickers will be placed at only one end of the
fabric so that it will be very easy to identify rejected or defective rolls without reopening it. The
details of defects found and the number of points given will be stated on the particular work sheet
and the summarized details of the inspection and the final result shall be stated on the Fabric
inspection summary report.

Points calculation :
Woven Points per 100 sq meter Points per 100 sqyds

Fabric types Average shipment Individual roll Average shipment Individual roll

Worsted wool 12 15 10 13

Synthetic 15 20 13 17

Corduroy 28 33 25 30

Other natural 20 26 18 24

 Synthetic – Polyester, Polymide, Lycell mold, Tensel, Viscose, Elastane etc.

 Other Natural – Cotton, Silk, Rayon, Cotton twill, Spin Rayon, Cotton Canvas, Filament
Rayon etc.
 If the total aggregate percentage of fabric construction is above 50 in either side, be it
Synthetic or Other Natural, the fabric classification will be the majority one.
 Knitted Points per 100 sq meter Points per 100 sqyds

Fabric types Average shipment Individual roll Average shipment Individual roll

Single jersey 17 22 15 20

Double jersey 20 26 18 24

Interlock 24 31 22 28

Wrap knit/lace 22 28 20 26

The above standard points are applied in following manner.

 It the measured points of any individual roll are higher than the agreed maximum points / roll, the
entire roll is failed.
 If the average shipment points exceed the acceptable average points the whole fabric inspection is
failed.

f) Fabric Group Classifications :

Group “A”

 Basic Denim ( Open End Spun / Ring Spun )

 All synthetics ( Polyester/Nylon/Acetate )
 Dress Shirting
 Filament Rayon
 Cotton Twill
 Cotton Canvas
 Yarn dyed Fabric
 Printed Fabric
 Spin Rayon
 Woolen Spun
 Corduroy
 Velvet
 Basic knitted Fabric.
Group “B”

 Hand loom and power loom fabric

 Madras
 Silk Fabric
  Pocketing

g) Other rejections :
 Cuttable width is less than the required width as per specification. The cuttable width is
measured between pinholes/coated area.
 Uneven Width / Dia of the fabric.
 Weight of the fabric (GSM) exceeds 5% more / less than the required weight.
 Fabric shade / color not matched with the approved Lab Dip/Sample swatch.
 Uneven dyeing within the fabric which causes color variation between panels of the complete
garment.
 If fabric rolls found with Unpleasant odour, will be rejected

If the 1st 10% inspection is failed, another 15% of fabric out of the total consignment will be taken for 2 nd
inspection. The result will be recorded on the same inspection reports as 2nd inspection. The acceptable limit
of total number of points per 100 Sq Yards will be as same as the 1 st inspection. If the 2nd inspection is failed
the whole consignment of fabric will be considered as rejected and the concerned parties will be informed
such as the concerned Merchandiser, Fabric supplier etc......

 If necessary a 100% inspection will be carried out on the whole fabric consignment to segregate it into
acceptable rolls and completely defective rolls. In this case the fabric supplier must agree to re-place the
total rejected quantity with fresh fabric.

 Any lot or roll of fabric that is rejected will be separately stored in the “Rejected Fabric Area”. All the
rejected fabric rolls shall be clearly labeled as “REJECTED GOODS” / Markedby a RED
STICKER/RED TAPE.
 SOP FOR FABRIC INSPECTION.

1. Collect the Delivery Challan and Packing lists from the Store.
2. Determine the quantity to be inspected based on the total fabric quantity.
3. Select rolls to be inspected.
4. Load the 1st roll on inspection machine.
 Inspector should have the approved fabric swatch of the color to be inspected and that swatch will
be considered as the reference sample for the inspection.
 If any reference sample is not provided by the fabric mill or Merchandiser the inspector will cut
one yard / meter of fabric from the first roll inspected. This cutting will be used as the approval
sample and if any further approval needed from the buyer this fabric cutting will be submitted as
the sample of bulk fabric.
5. Cut off a 6-inch fabric piece across the width of the fabric roll.
6. Mark this piece to identify the right and left sides of the fabric. Use this fabric strip to check for shading on
side-to-side, side to middle and end-to-end by checking it at least once in the middle and end of the roll.
7. Check the fabric for visual defects at a speed slow enough to find the defects. Recommended speed is 20
yds / 18 meters (+/- 5 ) per minute.
8. Paste 6” x 6” / 15cm x 15cm fabric swatches cut from the beginning and the end of each roll inspected and
make strap. These straps will be compared to assess on shade continuity from roll to roll within the shade
group supplied by the fabric mill and the 6”x 6” swatch cut from beginning of the first roll will be used as
the reference sample.
9. Evaluate the hand feel of each roll at least three times, at the beginning, middle, and end of the roll. The
supplied original fabric approval sample or the 6” x 6” swatch cut from the first roll will be used as the
reference sample. On this step the inspector will also evaluate the fabric for any naps or unacceptable
peeling and report the findings.
10. Check for Skewing, Bias and Bowing fabric. Pre-determine the tolerance you will allow. This will depend
on your product.
Bowing :

A Bow depth

Fabric Width
Skewing / Twisting :

Skew depth A

Fabric Width

Tolerance Calculation:

A
X 100 = Maximum %
Cuttable width

Maximum tolerance allowed:

Fabric type Woven Knit

Solid colors / Printed 3% 5%

Stripes / Checks 2% 4%

11. Measure the width of each roll at least three times, at the beginning, middle and end of the roll.
12. Mark all 01 – 04 defects with adhesive stickers/ chalk. The details of defects will be recorded on the
particular inspection work sheet at the same time.
13. The actual length of each roll shall be verified and recorded on inspection report.
14. If any of the rolls are graded as second quality, inspector will forward representative samples of the defects
together with the Inspection summary report, Inspection work sheet (Individual roll report) and the shade
continuity card to concerned authorities in order to make necessary decisions.
 FABRIC SHRINKAGE TEST PROCESS FLOW CHART

Shrinkage test should be done on 100% rolls of fabric if the final product is a washed
garment and no matter whether the fabric is Non-Denim or Denim.

Cut a Square fabric piece out of each roll in the size of 70cm x 70cm in length and width.

Write the roll number, Roll Ydgs, Style , Order # and Job # on each fabric cut piece by
permanent marker / fabric marker.

Mark 50cm x 50cm square on each fabric blanket by a permanent marker pen using the
Shrinkage Test marking template.

Make an Overlock stitch along the edges of each fabric blanket to secure the edge getting
damaged during washing.

Wash the fabric blanket following the same recipy and washing procedure which need
to be done on bulk production. If the final product has got any Dry Process the same must
be done even on fabric blankets.

Iron all washed fabric blankets in a normal way without letting the fabric to be stretched
just to remove crincles and make the surface flat.

Measure the shrinkage of length and width of the 50cm x 50cm square by using the
Srinkage measuring ruler and note down the result on shrinkage test report. Seperate
shrinkage groups as necessary and finalize the reort.
 FABRIC BLANKET MAKING PROCESS FLOW CHART

Fabric Blanket should be made on 100% of the rolls received for Denim and Non denim
fabrics.

Cut a 6" fabric piece across the width of fabric roll. This need to be done out of each
and every roll.

Mark the roll number and Way of fabric on each fabric cut piece by a permanent
marker.

Join each end every fabric piece together by Over Lock stitch. Makesure that all fabric
pieces are joined together following same direction.

Cut the Blanket in to 2 halves. Secure the fabric edges by Over Lock stitch and keep 01
half as non wash Blanket and send the other half for washing.

If the order is having any washing process... Follow the same and wash the Blanket.
After wash the shade should be matched with the approved sample.

Evaluate the washed blanket in the Light Box whether the shade is matched with
approved sample. Minimum 02 persons must check together and make the decision.

Segregate all the rolls those are in different shades and seperate them in to shade
groups A, B, C, D.....etc.
 FABRIC TWISTING TEST PROCESS FLOW CHART

Cut a fabric length and width wise 106 cm ⨉ 50cm

The cut piece will be folded and overlocked in the both side seam and 1cm hemming
will be done in the opening.

Twisting panel will be 50cm ⨉ 50cm in length and width.

After wash bowing and side seam skew will me measured.

Twisting percentage will be based on the difference in overlapping discrepency.