Sewing Machine Operator

(Job Role)

Qualification Pack: Ref. Id. AMH/Q0301

Sector: Apparel, Made-ups and Home Furnishing

Textbook for Class IX

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 ISBN 978-93-5292-124-9

First Edition ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

March 2019 Phalguna 1940  No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a
retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means,
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without the prior permission of the publisher.
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way of trade, be lent, re-sold, hired out or otherwise disposed
of without the publisher’s consent, in any form of binding or
© National Council of Educational cover other than that in which it is published.
Research and Training, 2019  The correct price of this publication is the price printed on
this page. Any revised price indicated by a rubber stamp or
by a sticker or by any other means is incorrect and should
be unacceptable.

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 Foreword

The National Curriculum Framework (NCF)–2005 recommends

bringing work and education into the domain of the curricular,
infusing it in all areas of learning while giving it an identity of its
own at relevant stages. It explains that work transforms knowledge
into experience and generates important personal and social values,
such as self-reliance, creativity and cooperation. Through work, one
learns to find one’s place in the society. It is an educational activity
with an inherent potential for inclusion. Therefore, an experience
of involvement in productive work in an educational setting will
make one appreciate the worth of social life and what is valued and
appreciated in society. Work involves interaction with material or
other people (mostly both), thus, creating a deeper comprehension
and increased practical knowledge of natural substances and
social relationships.
Through work and education, school knowledge can be easily
linked to learners’ life outside the school. This also makes a
departure from the legacy of bookish learning and bridges the gap
between the school, home, community and the workplace. The
NCF – 2005 also emphasises on Vocational Education and Training
(VET) for all those children who wish to acquire additional skills
and/or seek livelihood through vocational education after either
discontinuing or completing their school education. VET is expected
to provide a ‘preferred and dignified’ choice rather than a terminal
or ‘last resort’ option.
As a follow-up of this, the NCERT has attempted to infuse work
across the subject areas and also contributed in the development of
the National Skill Qualification Framework (NSQF) for the country,
which was notified on 27 December 2013. It is a quality assurance
framework that organises all qualifications according to the levels of
knowledge, skills and attitude. These levels, graded from one to ten,
are defined in terms of learning outcomes, which the learner must
possess regardless of whether they are obtained through formal, non-
formal or informal learning. The NSQF sets common principles and

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 guidelines for a nationally recognised qualification system covering
Schools, Vocational Education and Training Institutions, Technical
Education Institutions, Colleges and Universities.
It is under this backdrop that Pandit Sunderlal Sharma
Central Institute of Vocational Education (PSSCIVE), Bhopal,
a constituent of NCERT, has developed learning outcomes
based modular curricula for the vocational subjects from
Classes IX to XII. This has been developed under the Centrally
Sponsored Scheme of Vocationalisation of Secondary and Higher
Secondary Education of the Ministry of Human Resource
Development.
This textbook has been developed as per the learning
outcomes based curriculum, keeping in view the National
Occupational Standards (NOSs) for the job role and to
promote experiential learning related to the vocation. This will
enable the students to acquire necessary skills, knowledge
and attitude.
I acknowledge the contribution of the development team, reviewers
and all institutions and organisations, which have supported in the
development of this textbook.
NCERT would welcome suggestions from students, teachers and
parents, which would help us to further improve the quality of the
material in subsequent editions.

Hrushikesh Senapaty
Director
New Delhi National Council of Educational
June 2018 Research and Training

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 About the Textbook

Apparel, Made-ups and Home Furnishing sector is amongst the

fastest growing sectors in our country. It covers a great number of
activities from the transformation of raw material into fibres, yarns,
fabrics and produced end products. This sector includes activities
related to designing, drafting, cutting, stitching, finishing and
decoration of apparel, made-ups and home furnishing products. It
also includes their quality, merchandising and export aspects. One of
the very important areas of this sector is Sewing Machine Operation.
Sewing machine operations broadly involve stitching of fabrics and
other pliable materials using a sewing machine. A worker who
operates the sewing machine is called a Sewing Machine Operator.
They are also called a stitcher or machinist. The major responsibility
of a Sewing Machine Operator is to stitch various parts of a garment
or any other article. Generally, Sewing Machine Operators are
specialised in a specific type of sewing machine. These Operators
usually begin by performing simple tasks, and with experience,
they can perform more difficult tasks. Sewing machine operation is
one of the very important steps in the process of construction, and
the quality of apparel, made-ups and home furnishing. Hence, the
area has wide scope of manpower requirement, and there is a huge
demand of trained personnel.
The Student Textbook for the job role of Sewing Machine Operator
has been developed to impart knowledge and skills through hands-
on-learning experience, which forms a part of the experiential
learning. Experiential learning focusses on the learning process for
the individual. Therefore, the learning activities are student-centred
rather than teacher-centred.
The Student Textbook has been developed with the contribution of
the expertise from the subject and industry experts and academicians
for making it a useful and inspiring teaching-learning resource
material for the students of vocational education. Adequate care has
been taken to align the content of the textbook with the National
Occupational Standards (NOSs) for the job role so that the students
acquire necessary knowledge and skills as per the performance

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 criteria mentioned in the respective National Occupational Standards
(NOSs) of the Qualification Pack (QP). The textbook has been reviewed
by experts so as to make sure that the content is not only aligned
with the NOSs, but is also of good quality. The NOSs for the job role
of Sewing Machine Operator covered through this textbook are as
follows:
1. AMH/N0301 Carry out stitching activities using machine or by
hand
2. AMH/N0302 Contribute to achieve product quality in stitching
operations
3. AMH/N0102 Maintain work area, tools and machines
4. AMH/N0103 Maintain health, safety and security at workplace
5. AMH/N0104 Comply with industry, regulatory and organisational
requirements
This textbook covers sewing machine, its parts and attachments
which are very important for the stitching process. The common
terminology important for sewing machine operators is also given as
it is necessary that a Sewing Machine Operator should understand
the terms related to sewing and garments. The major activities of the
construction process are measuring, marking, cutting and stitching.
The required tools and equipment for these activities, their utility
and importance is included in this textbook. The textbook describes
the preparation and operationalisation of the sewing machine. In
construction, various types of stitches, seams and edge finishes
are used which have been covered here. The commonly occurring
hazards and their safety measures for the workers are also explained
in the textbook.
I extend my gratitude to all the contributors for sharing their
precious knowledge, expertise, and time and also positively
responding to our request for development of the present textbook.
I hope this textbook will be useful for students and teachers who
will opt for this job role. I shall be grateful to receive suggestions
and observations from readers which would help in bringing out a
revised and improved version of this textbook.

Pinki Khanna
Professor and Head
Department of Home Science
and Hospitality Management
PSSCIVE, Bhopal

vi

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 Textbook Development Team

Members
Aarti Lad, Senior Lecturer, Department of Fashion Technology,
Govt. Women’s Polytechnic College, Shivaji Nagar, Bhopal
Komila Sharma, Training Officer–Sewing Technology, Govt.
Model ITI, Govindpura, Bhopal
Nishi Sharma, Consultant, Apparel, Made-ups and Home
Furnishing Sector, Department of Home Science and
Hospitality Management, PSSCIVE, Bhopal
Ruchi Mishra, Designer and Boutique Owner, Vastra Vithika,
Bhopal
S. Kavitha, Associate Professor, Department of Home Science,
Mother Teresa Women’s University, Coimbatore, Tamil Nadu
Sneha Gyanchandani, Freelance Fashion Designer, Bhopal
and Former Assistant Store Manager, Levis (MyStore), Bhopal

Member - coordinator
Pinki Khanna, Professor and Head, Department of Home
Science and Hospitality Management, PSSCIVE, Bhopal

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 Acknowledgements

The National Council of Educational Research and Training (NCERT)

expresses its gratitude to the members of the Project Approval Board
(PAB) Rashtriya Madhyamik Shiksha Abhiyan (RMSA) and the officials of
the Ministry of Human Resource Development (MHRD), Government of
India for the financial support to the project for development of learning
outcome based curricula.
The Council acknowledges the contribution of the Review Committee
members—Atul Madan, Joint Director (Operations and Training),
Apparel, Made-ups and Home Furnishing, Sector Skill Council, New
Delhi; Sandhya Makkar, Joint Director (BD & CSR), Apparel, Made-
ups and Home Furnishing, Sector Skill Council, New Delhi; Renu
Jain, Associate Professor, Department of Fashion Design, Institute for
Excellence in Higher Education, Bhopal; Dharmendra Singh, Regional
Manager, Apparel Training and Design Centre, Madhya Pradesh and
Chhattisgarh; Alka Joshi, Freelance Fashion Designer and Boutique
Owner, Alka Boutique, Bhopal.
The Council is grateful to Saroj Yadav, Professor and Dean (A),
and Ranjana Arora, Professor and Head, Department of Curriculum
Studies, NCERT, for their sincere efforts in coordinating the review
workshops for the finalisation of this book.
The Council would also like to thank Rajesh P. Khambayat, Joint
Director, PSS Central Institute of Vocational Education (PSSCIVE),
Bhopal for providing support and guidance in the development of
this textbook.
Acknowledgement is also due to Vinod K. Soni, Computer Operator
Grade-II, Department of Home Science and Hospitality Management,
PSSCIVE, Bhopal for word-processing and composing; Apparel Training
and Design Centre (ATDC), Bhopal for permitting PSSCIVE to take
pictures of tools, equipment and infrastructure for this book.
The Council is grateful for the valuable contribution of
Garima Syal, Proofreader (Contractual), Publication Division,
NCERT in shaping this book. The efforts of Pawan Kumar
Barriar, DTP Operator, Publication Division, NCERT, and Nitin
Kumar Gupta, DTP Operator (Contractual), for layout design are
also acknowledged.

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 Contents

Foreword iii
About the Textbook v

Unit 1: Introduction to Sewing Machine 1

Session 1: Sewing Machine and its Types 2
Session 2: Terminology Related to Sewing and Garments 11
Session 3: Various Parts of a Sewing Machine and its Attachments 32

Unit 2: Sewing Tools and Sewing Machine Operations 43

Session 1: Measuring and Marking Tools and their Usage 43
Session 2: Cutting Tools and Usage 49
Session 3: Needles and Threads 54
Session 4: Preparation and Operation of Sewing Machine 61

Unit 3: Basics of Garment Construction 72

Session 1: Various Types of Stitch 73
Session 2: Different Type of Seams 79
Session 3: Edge Finishes 86

Unit 4: Care and Maintenance of Sewing Machine 90

Session 1: Cleaning, Oiling and Handling of Sewing Machine 90
Session 2: Machine and Sewing Defects and its Solutions 102

Unit 5: Hazards in Industry and Safety Measures 110

Session 1: Risk and Hazards in Industry 111
Session 2: Health and Safety Measures for Sewing 118
Machine Operator
Answer Key 126
Glossary 128
List of Credits 130

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 1 Introduction to
Sewing Machine

Introduction
A sewing machine is used to stitch the fabric and
other pliable materials together with threads. Sewing
machines were invented during the first Industrial
Revolution to decrease the quantum of manual sewing
done in garment industries. Since its invention, it has
greatly improved the efficiency and productivity of the
fabric, garment and needle industries.
The different parts of a sewing machine and its
functions help the Operator to know the functioning of
a sewing machine. There are different types of sewing
machine used in the manufacturing of garments and
other articles, but here in this Unit, we will study only
single needle lock stitch machine.
A sewing machine controls the fabric with feeding
devices and forms a perfect stitch to join the fabrics. It
has various parts and attachments, each of which have
their own importance and use. There are mainly two
categories of sewing machines that is, domestic sewing
machine and industrial sewing machine.
A Sewing Machine Operator should have the
knowledge and skills to operate the different types of
sewing machine. The Operator should know about the
various operations of the sewing machine, its parts,

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 Notes their functions, its attachments and the terms related
to stitching. Some of the common and important terms
are explained in this Unit.

Session 1: Sewing Machine and its Types

Introduction to sewing machine

Before the invention of a useable machine for sewing,
everything was sewn by hand. Many early efforts tried
to replicate this hand sewing method but were mostly
a failure. It looked to embroidery, where a needle was
used to produce decorative stitches but not for joining
the fabrics.
The final look of any garment or article depends on
how the different components are attached together
by sewing. Any variation in sewing leads to a defective
material. Thus, sewing must be done with caution.
Sewing can be broadly classified in two categories—
hand sewing and machine sewing. Hand sewing may be
used for temporary purposes or sometimes, it may be
used for some special purposes like hemming, buttonhole
making, blanket stitch, etc. Here in this session, our
main focus is on the sewing machine. The basic thought
behind sewing machines is to mechanically stitch two
or more pieces of material—mainly fabric, together
using thread and a needle. Sewing machines reduce the
amount of manual sewing in preparing a garment or
any other article. Sewing machines help the operator
in getting the work done quicker, with greater accuracy
and much more consistently.

Evolution of the sewing machine

The sewing machine device was invented in 1790 by
English inventor, Thomas Saint, but he could not
advertise his invention. He designed a wooden awl to
make holes in leather and canvas, thus allowing a needle
and single piece of thread through to hook underneath,
and forming locked chain stitches. Josef Madersperger
began developing the sewing machine in 1807 and he
presented the working machine in 1814.

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 John Greenough patented the first sewing machine Notes
in the United States in 1842. Elias Howe created a
sewing machine in 1845.
The sewing machine’s recognition quickly spread
like wildfire, initially selling to clothing manufacturers
so that they could construct standardised clothing sizes
on a larger scale. In 1860s, there was a quick popularity
of these machines in the middle class section. Later in
1889, the machines run by electricity were designed
with motors fixed in them. At first, these were standard
machines with a motor strapped on the side. As with
the expansion of the power in houses, these became
more popular and the motor was gradually introduced
into the casing. Later innovations include the ability
to make more sophisticated stitching patterns. In the
twenty-first century, sewing machine companies have
manufactured several type of machines used for different
sewing techniques and there are also computerised
machines, embroidery machines and special purpose
machines manufactured. The latest machines have LCD
screens, microprocessors, and pre-programmed fonts.

Categories of sewing machine

The following are the main categories of sewing machine.

Domestic sewing machines

These are designed mainly for one person to sew
individual dresses while using a single stitch type.
Modern sewing machines are designed in such a way
that the fabric easily glides in and out of the sewing
machine, speeding the stitching process and saving
time and energy. Some key points for domestic sewing
machines are as follows.
1. Domestic sewing machines are usually used in
homes by people simply interested in sewing.
2. These are commonly used by people in a variety of
projects for dressmaking, and for stitching simple
home furnishing items.
3. With little changes, these machines can perform a
variety of stitch types.

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 Notes 4. Domestic sewing machines usually work on
lightweight fabrics or work pieces.
5. These machines run on significantly smaller
motors compared to that of the industrial sewing
machines.

Industrial sewing machines

1. Industrial sewing machines are a heavy-duty
version of a standard basic sewing machine, and
it is used in garment and other related industries.
2. Industrial sewing machines are used for mass
production.

Fig.1.1: Operators working on industrial machines

3. These are heavy-duty machines that work

thousands of stitches per minute.
4. An industrial machine is well equipped with a
clutch and large servo motor.
5. Industrial machines are mainly designed to
perform one single specific function in assembly-
line based factories.
6. Some industrial machines are designed to operate
heavier than normal material.
7. Mainly, mass production requires an industrial
sewing machine, which is designed to sew heavy
material speedily, such as leather, canvas, and
vinyl, at one time.

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 8. The industrial machines are named based on Notes
the function that they serve. Typical names for
industrial machine class include pocket setter,
buttonhole, and programmable pattern sewers, etc.
For instance, a pocket industrial machine can sew
2,000 pockets in an eight-hour production cycle.
9. Programmable machines can store 10–30 or more
patterns in the memory.
10. Special purpose industrial machines can give better
output in production, for example, buttonhole
machines, pocket setter, pattern sewer.
Industrial sewing machines are larger, faster, more
complex, and more varied in their size, price and task.
The following are the comparison between domestic and
industrial sewing machines:
1. The industrial machine is faster, stitching from
3000–6000 stitches per minute, while the fastest
domestic sewing machine stitches not more than
1500 stitches per minute.
2. The presser foot (See Session 3) on a power machine
is raised and lowered with a knee lift to a special
foot pedal. On domestic machines, it is generally
operated manually using a lever at the back of the
needle bar.
3. Lubrication is done automatically in industrial
sewing machines whereas it is done manually in
domestic sewing machines.

Types of sewing machine

Though there are different types of sewing machine but
mainly, three types are considered for sewing, as given
below.
1. Mechanical sewing machines
2. Electronic sewing machines
3. Computerised sewing machines

1. Mechanical sewing machines

These machines are less expensive and are the simplest
type of sewing machines in terms of build. They are
the hand-operated sewing machine and treadle sewing
machine.

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 Hand-operated sewing machine
(i) This is the simplest form of
domestic sewing machine which
is operated by hand.
(ii) A handle is attached to the
flywheel (See Session 3) which is
detachable and is used to operate
the machine.
(iii) A hand-operated sewing machine
Fig.1.2: A hand-operated sewing machine is generally used for domestic
purpose for simple projects as it
does not work very speedily.
(iv) This machine is suitable where
there is no electricity supply.
Treadle sewing machine
(i) This machine is the same as a
hand-operated sewing machine
but it is operated by feet, with an
additional stand attached to the
machine.
(ii) A belt is attached to the lower
stand passing through the
balance wheel and driven by feet.
(iii) These machines run faster than the
hand-operated sewing machine.
(iv) This machine is also suitable
for the places where there is no
electric supply.
(v) When handling the treadle sewing
Fig.1.3: Treadle sewing machine machine, both the hands of the
Operator are free to handle the
fabric. Hence, this speeds up the
work of sewing.

2. Electronic sewing machine

These machines became popular
during the 1970s. There are many
more features in an electronic sewing
machine than in a mechanical sewing
machine.

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 (i) These sewing machines run faster than manually Notes
operated machines.
(ii) In the electronic machines, balance wheel comes
to motion by a belt, which is attached to an electric
motor.
(iii) A single motor is attached to the electronic sewing
machines and this motor supplies power to the
needle.
(iv) It is essential to control the speed of this machine
by putting pressure on an electronic foot pedal.
(v) Practice is essential to handle an electric sewing
machine.

3. Computerised sewing machines

(i) These sewing machines are very fast and specific
to use.
(ii) These machines are similar to the electronic
sewing machines. However, a computerised sewing
machine works with the help of various softwares.
(iii) Computerised sewing machines allow the Operator
to tailor the functions according to the sewing
needs. A computerised sewing machine functions
very appropriately in designing and stitching
various components of the garment like sleeves,
yokes, pockets, etc. These advanced computerised
machines have an LED display or LCD display or
touch screen. They are multi function machines
and are expensive.
The following are some other types of sewing machines
according to their specific applications.
(i) Lock stitch machine
(ii) Chain stitch machine
(iii) Double chain stitch machine
(iv) Buttonhole machine
(v) Button stitch machine
(vi) Bar-tack machine
(vii) Feed off arm machine
(viii) Over-lock machine
(ix) Blind stitch machine
(x) Over-edge machine

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 Fig. 1.4: Lock stitch machine

Fig. 1.5: Chain stitch machine

Fig. 1.6: Double chain stitch machine Fig. 1.7: Buttonhole machine

Fig. 1.8: Button stitch machine Fig.1.9: Bar-tack machine

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 Fig. 1.10: Feed off arm machine Fig. 1.11: Over-lock machine

Fig. 1.12: Blind stitch machine Fig. 1.13: Over-edge machine

Practical Exercises
Activity 1
Prepare a chart of the different type of sewing machines.
Material Required
1. Chart sheet
2. Pictures of sewing machines
3. Adhesive/glue
4. Scissors
5. Coloured pens/pencils
Procedure
1. Search and collect the pictures of different type of sewing
machines.
2. Cut the pictures very neatly with scissors.
3. Paste them on a chart sheet.
4. Label them.
5. Place the chart in the classroom/practical lab.

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 Notes
Activity 2
Visit the garment manufacturing industry/local distributors
of sewing machines/boutiques/workshops/units of garment
making and designing.
Materials Required
1. Notebook
2. Pen
3. Camera (if available/mobile phone with camera)
4. Vehicle (bus) for field visit
Procedure
1. Visit a garment manufacturing industry/local distributors
of sewing machines/boutiques/workshops/units of
garment making and designing with your teacher.
2. Observe the different parts and attachments of a sewing
machine and its functions.
3. List the type of sewing machines used and write about their
functions.
4. Prepare a report of the field visit.

Check Your Progress

A. Fill in the blanks

1. _____________ sewing machines are those usually used in

homes by people simply interested in sewing.
2. A _____________ sewing machine works with the help of
various softwares.
3. _____________ sewing machines use a single motor that
supplies power to the needle.

B. Short answer questions

1. Enlist the different type of sewing machines.

2. Write short notes on:
(a) Electronic sewing machines
(b) Computerised sewing machines
3. Write the difference between a domestic and industrial
sewing machine.

C. Long answer questions

1. Write down the different categories of sewing machine.

2. Explain mechanical sewing machines in detail.

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 Session 2: Terminology Related to Sewing Notes
and Garments
There are some special terms related to sewing and
garments which a Sewing Machine Operator should
know to facilitate the task.

A
Anchoring stitches
Machine stitches sewn with zero stitch length to keep
from pulling out the stitch/thread, or the end of seam
where one stitch backwards for some stitches to anchor
the stitch
Apex
The highest point on the bust for ladies’ garment
Armhole
It is a hole for the arm where bodice joins the sleeve. It
is important to have the depth and width of the armhole
to be perfect for an individual, especially when clothes
are closely fitting.
Armhole scye
It is used to describe the scooped out curve of the
armhole on a block or pattern.

B
Balance
It refers to the hang and proportion of the garment.
Fashion does determine balance to a certain extent, for
example it is appropriate to wear long tops over short
skirts. Where the flat pattern cutting is concerned, it is
often difficult to judge correct balance until the garment
is test-fitted.
Balance point
It is a mark made on the various pieces of the garment
to maintain a balance while stitching.
Baste
To stitch the pieces of a fabric together temporarily (long
running stitches) created by hand or by machine.

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11

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 Notes Basting
Long, loose stitches employed to hold two pieces of
fabric together until they can be sewn firmly by hand or
by machine.

Bell sleeve
A style of sleeve that is full and flared at the elbow or
wrist level.

Bias
It is a diagonal line across the grain of the fabric. When
used to substitute crosswise or lengthwise grain in
pattern placement, a bias cut will cling to the figure
following body curves closely.

Bias cut
Any diagonal cut that is not on the lengthwise or
crosswise grain is a bias cut.

Binding
It is a strip of fabric used to cover a seam edge or enclose
raw edges. It can be straight or bias.

Blind hemming (stitch)

It is a hemming (stitch) that is not visible on the face of
a fabric or garment.

Bobbin winder tension angle

It is a device situated near the bobbin winder which
helps to wind the bobbin evenly.

Bodkin
Long, flat, needle-like tool used to thread elastic through
a loop
Brocade
In textiles, woven fabric having a raised floral or figured
design that is introduced during the weaving process.
The design, appearing only on the fabric face, is usually
made in a satin or twill weave. The rich, fairly heavy
fabric is frequently used for evening dresses, draperies,
and upholstery.

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 Button Notes
It is usually round in shape and is used to close an
opening in the garments or any other article. It is used
for decoration purpose also. Buttons are available in the
market in different size, shape, material and colours.

C
Cambric
It is a soft, plain weave cotton or linen fabric closely
woven, usually given a slight stiffening.
Canvas
It is a general classification of strong, firm, closely woven
fabrics usually made with cotton, originally made of
hemp. Produced in many grades and qualities, it may
be softly finished or highly sized.
Carding
It is a mechanical process that disentangles, cleans and
intermixes fibres to produce a continuous web or sliver
suitable for subsequent processing.
Centre point
The point that is equally distant from every point on
the circumference of a circle or sphere or place in the
middle.
Chain stitch
It is a stitch formed by making connected loops that
form a chain.
Cheesecloth
It is a plain weave, thin cotton fabric, loosely woven. It
has a slight crepe texture
Chiffon
It is a very lightweight, sheer silk or manufactured
filament fabric made in a plain weave with fine, hard
spun yarn of approximately the same size in warp and
filling and the same number of ends and picks per inch.
The finish is dull and soft, or sometimes stiff. The fabric
is delicate but relatively strong.

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 Notes Clip
It is a small snip or cut made in the edge of fabric. All
curved edges must be clipped so that the fabric lies flat
when final pressing is done.
Combing
It is a technique whereby fibres are passed through a
series of straight, metal teeth in order to lay the fibres
parallel to one another.
Cords
It is thin, flexible string or rope made from several
twisted strands.
Corduroy
It is a strong durable fabric with a rounded cord, rib, or
wale surface formed by cut pile yarn. The back of the
goods has a plain or a twill weave.
Couching
A method of embroidering in which a design is made
by various threads or cords laid upon the surface of a
material and secured by fine stitches drawn through
the material and across the cord. Couching is either
raised or flat.
Crêpe
It is a general classification of fabrics that may be made
of silk, rayon, acetate, cotton, wool, manufactured fibres,
or blends, characterised by a broad range of crinkled or
grained surface effects.
Cross grain
It refers to the yarn direction that is perpendicular to
selvedge.
Crotch point
This is where the inside leg seams meet the crotch
seams in a trouser. The exact position depends on the
figure but the crotch point should be towards the front
of the body.
Cutting board
It is a specially constructed, folded, corrugated board
which opens out to cover a table or bed to provide a
surface on which the pattern is cut out or made.

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 D Notes
Dart
It is a wedge or diamond-shaped section removed from
the surface area of a garment part by stitching.
Dart intake
The intake is the extra quantity of fabric taken while
making the dart.
Denim
A well-known basic cotton or blended fabric usually
woven in a 2/1 or 3/1 warp- faced right hand twill.
Generally, the warp is dyed blue or sometimes brown
with a white filling
Dobby weave
It is a style of patterned weave consisting of small
frequently repeated geometric designs.
Double-fold hem
It is a hem that is folded once for the hem allowance and
a second time to enclose the raw edge.
Double needle
Two machine needles attached to a single shaft that
sews two parallel rows of stitches at once with two spools
of thread and one bobbin. Sometimes it is known as
twin needle.

Drafting
It is a step/system for pattern making that depends on
the measurements taken from a dress form or model, or
the actual measurements, to create basic/foundation
or design patterns of the garment or article.

E
Ease
It is the amount of space added to the measurements
in order to ensure that there is space to move while
wearing the garment. The amount varies according to
the current fashion.

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 Notes Easing
This is needed when joining two edges that are of
different lengths and shape. The longer edge makes a
slight bubble of fabric as it is seamed, which provides
a slight ease for movement. Examples of easing include
sleeve heads into armhole, back shoulder on to front
shoulder, back edge of sleeve seam on to front edge at
elbow level.
Edge stitch
It is a kind of straight stitching very close to the edge
of a seam, trim, or outer edge. It secures seam
allowances, prevents the edge from stretching, and
supports the fabric.

Eye
It is the part on the needle that carries the thread to
keep forming stitches.

Eyelets
It is a small hole, usually round and finished along
the edge, as in cloth or leather for the passage of a lace
or cord.

F
Fabric weight
The weight of a fabric depends on the thickness of the
threads it is made of, of the density of the weave or
knit, as well as its composition. The dyeing or printing
process can also affect the weight. The weight will be
measured in grams per square metre (g/m2 or gsm)
or in ounce per square yard (oz/y2, often abbreviated
to oz.)
Very light: upto 4 oz. (135 g/m²)
Light: 4 to 6 oz. (135 g/m² to 200 g/m²)
Medium: 6 to 8 oz. (200 g/m² to 270 g/m²)
Medium-heavy: 8 to 10 oz. (270 g/m² to 340 g/m²)
Heavy: 10 to 12 oz. (340 g/m² to 400 g/m²)
Very heavy: above 12 oz. (400 g/m²)
Fabric width
It is the fabric cut from one selvedge edge to the other
selvedge.

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 Feeding devices Notes
These are the parts of a sewing machine which are used
to advance and raise the fabric while stitching.
Felt
It is a non-woven sheet of matted material made from
wool, hair, fur, or certain manufactured fibres. It is
an entanglement of a mass of fibres that takes place
by a combination of heat, moisture, and pressure; no
bonding adhesive (sticking material) is used.
Filament
It is a fibre of indefinite or extreme length. This length
permits the use of filament in yarn without twist or with
very low twist.
Flare
It is a shaped fullness added to the different parts of
a garment. While cutting a pattern, flare is added by
cutting from the top to the bottom of the basic shape of
the garment and spreading the pieces at one edge only.
Floss
It is a soft thread of silk or mercerised cotton for use
to clean between tension discs, feed dog, etc. It may be
used to clean the area between two narrow parts.
Flounce
It is a full circular edging for the neckline, sleeves and
hems.
Forearm seam
It is the seam nearest to the front of a two piece sleeve.
Frill
It is a strip of fabric of any width gathered and attached
to a garment as an edging.
Fringe
It is a decorative edge made of hanging strings of thread
or fabric. It is an edging or border of loose threads,
tassels, or loops. These may be produced by the
constituent threads or by threads added to a fabric after
weaving or knitting. The threads forming the fringe are

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 Notes sometimes bunched or knotted together to increase the
decorative effect.
Fullness
It is an extension on one of two sections of a garment
joined by a seam, used to create volume or shape in
the garment.

Fusible
It is a type of fabric or material that has heat-sensitive
adhesive on one side that enables it to bind to
another fabric.

Fusible interfacing tape

It is available in a variety of narrow widths. On heating,
this tape fuses to fabric to stabilise a seam or edge.
Fuzz
It refers to the fibre ends that protrude from a yarn
or fabric.

G
Gather
It means becoming contracted into wrinkles/small
folds, creases, etc., as cloth/fabric. Gathers are made by
sewing parallel rows of running stitch near the garment
edge and then pulling or drawing the stitching thread
so that small folds are formed.
Gathering
It allows for making a long piece of fabric to fit with a
shorter piece of fabric and also is a method of easing a
seam to allow insertion of sleeves and another rounded
pattern pieces.
Gingham
It is a medium weight cotton fabric, plain weave and
yarn died; made with carded or combed yarns. Gingham
varies in quality, depending upon the type of yarn,
fastness of colour, construction and weight.
Godet
It is a flared or triangular insert in the hemline of
any garment.

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 Grain Notes
It is the direction of yarns in a woven fabric along the
length to across the width. It is important for a good fit
and the garment should be cut on the right grain or in
other words on grain. An on grain garment hangs evenly
and appears symmetrical. If the garment is off-grain, it
will not hang straight.
Grain line
It is a line drawn from end to end on the pattern
piece to show how the pattern should align with the
lengthwise grain of the fabric. The pattern pieces will
always be placed parallel to the selvedge on the fabric
in the direction in which the grain line is drawn on
each pattern.
Gusset
It is a small piece of fabric inserted in the seam to allow
room for movement. Gussets are mostly required in
kalidar kurta sleeves to allow arm movement.

H
Halter
It is a style of neckline that has a strap or an extension
of fabric running from the front armhole to around the
back of the neck edge.
Ham
A tailor’s ham or dressmaker’s ham is a tightly stuffed
small pillow used as a curved mould when pressing
curved areas of clothing, such as sleeves, darts,
waistlines collars, or cuffs.
Hand overcast
A hand stitch that wraps around an edge like a spiral

Handle
It is attached to the handle attachment of the machine
and helps to drive it with hand.

Hem
It is an edge finish used to finish the bottom edge of a
garment or any other article.

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 Notes Hem allowance
It is the distance between the cutting line and
the hemline
Hemline
It is the lowest edge of the garment once the hem
is sewn.
Hemp
It is a fine, light-coloured, lustrous, and strong bast
fibre, obtained from the hemp plant. The term hemp is
often incorrectly used in a generic sense for fibres from
different plants.
Hook
A piece of metal or other hard material curved or bent
back at an angle, for catching hold of or hanging.

I
Interfacing
It refers to a sew-in or fusible fabric used to stabilise
the fashion fabrics. It can also add body, reinforce, or
shape.
Interlacing
During stitching, when one thread passes over or
around another thread or loop of another thread, it is
called interlacing.
Interlooping
It is the passing of a loop of thread through another loop
formed by a different thread.
Intralooping
When a loop of one thread passes through the loop of
the same thread during sewing
J
Jacquard weave
It is a decorative weave which is manufactured on a
jacquard loom. In this weave, detailed and intricate
designs are made. Manufacturing of the jacquard
designs involves at least two basic weaves in various

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 arrangements to form the pattern. Brocade is a common Notes
example of the jacquard weave.
L
Lawn
A fine, plain weave, relatively sheer cotton fabric made
in close constructions
Linen
This fibre is obtained from the stem of the flax plant.
Linen is a strong and durable fabric.
Lining
A fabric (usually lightweight) which helps to cover the
stitching details on the inside of the garment
Loop stitches
These are stitches formed by the loop section of a serge
or over locker.

M
Marking chalk
These are made of coloured powder that is used to
transfer markings on to the fabric.
Mending
It is a finishing process in fabric manufacture in which
irregularities such as weaving imperfections, tears, and
broken yarns are repaired after the cloth is taken from
the loom. It is primarily done on woollen and worsted
woven fabrics to prepare them for further finishing.
Mercerised thread
It is a boil-fast (that is, damage resistant at the boiling
temperature), plied, corded cotton thread which has
been treated with caustic soda, to give it more strength,
lustre and affinity for dyes.
Mercerising
It is a treatment of cotton yarn or fabric by swelling in
strong alkali. The process causes a permanent swelling
of the fibre, increasing its lustre, strength, and affinity
for dyes.

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 Notes Muslin
It is basically an unbleached plain woven cotton fabric
used for making test fits. It is available in light, medium
and heavy weight. Medium quality is used for test fitting
and draping. It is used by the designers to check the fit and
look of the design before the construction of a garment.

N
Nap
It is a layer of fibre ends raised from the ground weave of
the fabric by a mechanical brushing action. In napped
fabrics, a fuzzy, fur-like feel is created when the fibre
ends extend from the basic fabric structure to the fabric
surface. The fabric can be napped on either one or both
sides. In napped fabrics, the texture runs in a particular
direction and requires all pattern pieces to be cut facing
the same direction.
Needle clamp
It is a screw that is tightened to hold the needle
in position.
Notch
It is a small cut that is shaped like a V and that is made
on an edge or a surface.

O
Organza
It is a lightweight, transparent fabric in plain weave with
a crisp hand that usually is made of very fine filament
yarns. The most commonly used fibres are silk, nylon,
polyester, or rayon.
Overcast stitch
It is a slanting stitch used around cut edges or open
parts to prevent raveling.
P
Pattern
It is the paper or cardboard template from which the
parts of a garment are traced onto the fabric before
cutting out and assembling.

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 Pile Notes
A surface effect on a fabric formed by upright yarns, cut
or loops of yarn raised from the surface of the fabric
Pinning
Attaching pins for keeping the fabric and pattern
in place
Plain weave
A weave in which each weft yarn passes alternately over
and under each warp yarn in a square pattern that is,
the interlacing is one up and one down for the whole
length of the fabric
Pleat
It is a type of fold formed by doubling the fabric back
upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used
in garments and upholstery to gather a wide piece of
fabric to a narrower circumference.
Ply
It is one of the strands in a yarn. The thickness of yarn
is also determined by how many plies or strands it has
twisted together.
Point presser
A small tool used to insert into a tight corner or small
space for ease of pressing
Point turner
A tool used to turn a sewn corner to the right side with
a sharp, crisp point
Polyester fabric
It is a generalised term for any fabric, which is made
using polyester yarns or fibres. This name is used for
a synthetic, man-made polymer, which, as a specific
material, is most commonly referred to as a type called
polyethylene terephthalate (PET).
Pre-shrink
Washing the fabric before cutting to allow it to shrink
depending upon the type of fabric

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 Notes Princess seam
It is a lengthwise seam passing through the apex
and giving shape to the garment. The seam may
originate from the armhole, shoulder and neckline.
The seams are named accordingly. For example, a
princess seam originating from the shoulder is called a
shoulder princess.
Pucker
It is tightly gathered or contracted into wrinkles or
small folds, caused due to incorrect density of stitches,
blunt point needle, insufficient backing, and incorrect
thread tensions.
R
Raw edge
Fabric ends with an unfinished look
Rib weave
It is a variation of plain weave with cords in the warp or
weft direction.
Ripping
To cut or tear apart in a rough or vigorous manner to
rip open a seam
Rubber ring
This is a ring on the bobbin winder which comes in
contact with the nut of the balance wheel. This should
never be allowed to become oily which will make it
slippery and will not be able to make proper contact
with the balance wheel.
Ruffles
It is a pleated piece of fabric often used as trim on
clothes. A ruffle on the bottom of a dress is like a fancy
wrinkle. It can be used as linear trims to finish any edge
of the garment.
S
Seam
A line along which two or more fabrics are joined by
fusion, glueing, sewing, stapling. Usually near edges of
the fabric pieces.

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 Seam allowance Notes
It is the area between the edge and the stitching line on
two (or more) pieces of material being stitched together.
It can range from 1/4 inch wide to as many inches as
required (mostly not more than three inches).
Seam finish
Any technique that finishes the raw edges of a seam
Seam roll
It is a cylindrical-shaped long tool used to press open
long seams or to slide inside a sleeve for creaseless
pressing.
Selvedge
It runs parallel to the lengthwise grain of the fabric
which is a tightly woven finished edge of fabric.
Sewing needle
It is a fine cylindrical piece of metal with a sharp point
at the lower end, a hole or eye in it, used in sewing.

Sewing threads
It refers to special types of yarns that are designed to
pass through a sewing machine. The basic function
of a thread is to deliver aesthetics and help in the
performance in stitches and seams.

Shank
The back of a button through which the thread passes,
to attach the button to the garment

Shears
It is a cutting instrument in which two blades move past
each other, like scissors, but these are typically larger.
These are also known as large scissors.

Sheer
Any such transparent or very light-weight fabric as sheer
chiffon, crepe, georgette or voile of various constructions
and yarns, especially silk and manufactured fibre
yarns. Sheers are made in both spun and filament yarn
constructions.

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 Notes Shirring
It is a process to gather (an area of fabric or part of a
garment) by means of drawn or elasticised threads in
parallel rows.

Shuttle
It holds the bobbin case and moves to form the loop as
the machine is operated. It is fitted below the feed dog.
Skipped stitches
In skipped stitches, there is no needle thread or looper
thread movement during certain respective portions of
the stitch cycle. It is one of the most common sewing
machine problems. It can be one skipped stitch
or multiple skipped stitches between normally
sewn stitches.

Snagging
In fabrics, a yarn or part of a yarn pulled or plucked
from the surface

Snap tape
It is perfect for keeping bodysuits closed and taut that
is, not loose. Snap tape is made up of snap fasteners,
sometimes called press studs, which have been applied
to pieces of fabric. The snaps are made of mainly metal
or plastic.

Stabiliser
In the context of a garment, it is a fabric under the layer
used to hold the shape of the fabric/garment or support
its strength.
Staple yarn
It is produced from short-length fibres called staple.
With the exception of silk, mostly the fibres that come
from natural sources are staple fibres.

Stay stitch
Stitching placed on or just outside the seam line, used
to stabilise the fabric

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 Stitch Notes
Loop or loops of one or more threads when bound
with each other, either by interlooping, interlacing,
intralooping or combination of these three while sewing
fabric, each unit of such configuration is called stitch.

Stitches per inch (SPI)

A stitch per inch (SPI) is measured by counting the number
of stitches found within one inch. The number of stitches
per inch has a direct influence on the seam strength,
the stitch appearance and the seam elasticity on stretch
fabrics. Using the correct number of stitches per inch can
greatly enhance the strength, appearance and performance
of the seam for a given fabric type and application.

Stitch length
Length of a stitch determined by the movement of the
feed dog.

Stitch line
It refers to a line in the paper pattern where one complete
movement of a threaded needle passes through a fabric
or material over the line.
Strand
A general term for one component of a rope, thread, or
ply yarn, or any of the fibers that are twisted or plaited
together to form the aforementioned. Sometimes the
term also is applied to the entire rope, cable, thread, or
ply yarn.

Stretch fabric
The fabric in which the properties of substantial
elongation (stretching) and recovery that is, coming
back to its original position, have been produced

Stripe
A design consisting of bends or straight lines against a
plain background

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 Notes T
Tacking
Fastening pieces of fabric together, mostly temporarily,
with stitches

Tassels
A bunch of loosely hanging threads or cords knotted at
one end and attach for decoration of garments such as
dupattas, scarf, kurtis and home furnishing items

Terry
It is a woven fabric, usually cotton, or a blend with
manufactured fibre, with loops pile on one or both sides.
Loops may cover the entire surface or may form stripes,
cables, checks or other pattern. The fabric is noted for
its ability to absorb moisture.

Thread tail
The left-out thread, unfinished or untrimmed threads
on the edges

Thread tension
The degree of tightness of stitches in machine sewing or
the state of the thread being stretched tight

Top stitch
It is a row of continuous stitches on the top or right side
of a garment or any other article. It is a sewing technique
where the line of stitching is designed to be seen from the
outside of the garment, either decorative or functional.
Top stitching is used most often on garment edges such
as necklines and hems, where it helps facings to stay in
place and gives a crisp edge.

Trim
It is any decorative item, ribbon, lace, etc., that is put
on a garment or other item that is being sewn. The word
trim is also used to define the act of trimming excess
seam allowances or fabric with scissors.

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 Trimming materials Notes
Additional material used for decorative or functional
purposes on a garment and on other items are trimming
materials.

True bias
Also called true across, it refers to a bias of 45 degrees
to the selvedge.

Tucks
A flattened, stitched fold in a garment or material,
typically one or several parallel folds put in a garment
for shortening, tightening, or decoration

Twill weave
It is a type of textile weave with a pattern of diagonal
parallel ribs. This is done by passing the weft thread
over one or more warp threads then under two or more
warp threads.

U
Upholstery fabric
Any fabric used as upholstery, for example, to cover
furniture. It is made in a wide variety of fibres including
cotton, linen, silk, wool, manufactured fibres, and
blends. Weaves include plain, twill, satin, jacquard and
dobby. Some knits are also used.

V
Velvet
It is a warp ply fabric with shorts closely woven cut pile
that gives the fabric a rich, soft texture. Originally the
pile was made of silk but now, it is also made of cotton,
manufactured fibres, and various blends.

Voile
It is a lightweight, sheer fabric, made of hard twisted
yarns in a low count plain weave. It is made of cotton,
worsted, silk, rayon or acetate.

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 Notes W
Warp
It is the lengthwise yarns used in the weaving operation.
This forms the basic structure of the fabric. Warp yarns
generally have more twist than weft yarns because they
are subjected to more strain in the weaving process,
and therefore, require more strength.

Weft
The crosswise yarn that interlaces with warp in weaving
is known as weft or filling yarn. Weft yarns are carried
over and under the warp. Filling yarns, generally have
less twist than warp yarns because they are subjected
to less strain in the weaving process and therefore,
required less strength.

Worsted
The yarns spun wholly from combed wool to ensure that
all the fibres are reasonably parallel. The fabrics made
from such yarns are called worsted fabrics.

Y
Yarn
It is a continuous strand of textile fibres that may be
composed of endless filaments or shorter fibres twisted
or otherwise held together. Yarns may be single or ply,
and form the basic elements for fabric/threads.

Yoke
It is a shaped pattern piece which forms part of a
garment, usually fitting around the neck and shoulders,
or around the hips to provide support for looser parts
of the garment, such as a gathered skirt or the body of
a shirt.

Z
Zigzag stitch
The Z-shaped stitches used to finish raw edges. It may
be used for decoration purpose also.

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 Notes
Practical Exercises
Activity 1
Collect any ten pictures showing different stitches/parts of a
sewing machine/fabric, etc., from the terminology listed above
and prepare a scrapbook of the same.
Material Required
1. Scrapbook
2. Ten pictures of your choice from the terminology listed
above
3. Adhesive/glue
4. Scissors
5. Coloured pens/pencils
Procedure
1. Search and collect any ten pictures showing different
stitches/parts of a sewing machine/fabric, etc., from the
terminology listed above.
2. Cut the pictures very neatly with scissors.
3. Paste them in a scrapbook.
4. Label them.

Check Your Progress

A. Fill in the blanks with the most appropriate answer from
the choices given below

1. True bias refers to a bias of _____________ to the selvedge.

(a) 90 degrees
(b) 45 degrees
(c) 50 degrees
2. Selvedge is a tightly woven factory edge of fabric that runs
parallel to the _____________ grain.
(a) width wise
(b) crosswise
(c) length-wise
3. _____________ is the finished bottom edge of a garment.
(a) Warp
(b) Selvedge
(c) Hem
4. _____________ is the distance between the cutting line and
the hemline.
(a) Hem allowance
(b) Hem
(c) Hemline

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 Notes 5. _____________ is a strip of fabric of any width gathered and
attached to a garment as an edging.
(a) Gathers
(b) Frill
(c) Dart
6. _____________ is basically an unbleached, plain woven cotton
fabric used for making test fits.
(a) Voile
(b) Mulmul
(c) Muslin

B. Arrange the jumbled words

(a) seae (d) pwar (g) radngfit (i) ctshit
(b) iabs (e) denele (h) fewt (j) tpatner
(c) anigr (f) hteard

C. Questions

1. Enlist any ten sewing terminologies and explain the same.

2. Explain the given terminologies:
(a) Grain
(b) Hem
(c) Seam allowance
(d) Selvedge

Session 3: Various Parts of A Sewing

Machine and its Attachments
The basic structure of the mechanical sewing machines
is the same—whether it is a hand-operated sewing
machine, treadle sewing machine or motorised sewing
machine.

Sewing machine: parts and their functions

The basic parts of a sewing machine are:
1. Spool pin is a metal rod placed on the top of
the machine for correct positioning of the reel
of thread.
2. Thread guide takes the thread from the spool
pin to the needle through a small hole. It holds
the thread in position from the spool to the
needle. It smoothens the thread and protects it
from abrasion.

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 3. Tension disc is a combination
of two concave discs placed
together with the convex sides
facing. From spool pin, the
thread passes through the thread
guide, then between the tension
discs to the needle. Tension
discs control the delivery of the
upper thread from the spool to
the needle. The tension of the (a)
thread is adjusted by a spring
and nut which decreases or
increases the pressure.
4. Thread take-up lever is a lever
fitted to the body of the arm
located above the tension disc. It
receives its up and down motion
from the front axle. At the outside
end of the lever, there is a small
hole through which the thread
passes. The take-up lever first
loosens the top
(b) (c)
thread during
the stitch
formation, and
then removes
any slack to
set or lock the
stitch.

(d) (e)
Fig.1.14 (a–e): Parts of a sewing machine

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 Notes 5. Needle bar is a metal rod to hold the needle at one
end with the help of a clamp. Its main function is
to give motion to the needle.
6. Presser foot is a detachable device for holding the
material in place on the feed dog while stitching.
This device is not used when attachments for
tucks, ruffles or embroidery are used.
7. Presser foot lifter is the lever attached to the presser
bar (located inside the face plate) to control the up
and down movement of the presser foot. It must
always be lifted up to take out the material from
the machine.
8. Stitch regulator controls the length of the stitch.
9. Bobbin winder is a device which helps in winding
the bobbin (located inside the slide plate) properly.
The thread passes through it tightly or loosely,
as desired.
10. Fly wheel (or balance wheel) is a round wheel
located at the upper right of the sewing machine.
This is made to revolve the machine. It controls the
motion of the machine manually or electrically.
11. Slide plate is a rectangular plate, which facilitates
the removal of the bobbin case without lifting the
machine top.
12. Needle plate or throat plate is a semi-circular disc
with a hole to allow the needle to pass through
it. The fundamental purpose of this plate is to
provide a levelled surface for the material and to
prevent the dust from entering the inner parts of
the sewing machine.
13. Feed dog consists of a set of teeth fitted below the
needle plate. When the machine is in motion, the
feed moves upwards, thus advancing the material
as each stitch is made. It helps to move the material
forward while sewing.
14. Face plate is a cover, which when removed, gives
access to the oiling points on the needle bar,
presser bar and take-up lever.
15. Arm is a horizontal part of the head that houses
the drive shafts.

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 16. Check spring is a small wire spring behind or at the
top of the tension discs. It provides a little amount
of tension on the thread of the needle and acts a
shock absorber.
17. Slack thread regulator is a metal hook near the
tension discs.
18. Bobbin case is fixed in the shuttle case placed in
the bottom chamber (the hollow space under the
slide plate) of the sewing machine and moves into
position to catch the top thread and form the stitch
as the needle is lowered into the bobbin case. The
lower tension of the thread can be adjusted (by
loosening or by tightening) by a small screw fixed
on the bobbin case.
19. Clutch or thumb screw is in the centre of the fly
wheel and it engages and disengages the stitching
mechanism.
20. Rubber ring is a ring on the bobbin winder which
comes in contact with the nut of the balance wheel.
This should never be allowed to become oily, as it
will make it slippery and will not be able to make
proper contact with the balance wheel.
21. Bobbin winder tension angle is a
device situated near the bobbin
winder which helps to wind the
bobbin evenly.
22. Needle clamp is a screw that is
tightened to hold the needle in
position.
23. Handle driver is attached to
the handle attachment of the
machine and helps to drive it
with hand.
24. Shuttle holds the bobbin case
and moves to form the loop as
the machine is operated. It is
fitted below the feed dog or to its
left side. Fig 1.15: Shuttle and shuttle case
25. Treadle drive is a large wheel located under the
board in the treadle machine. It is connected to

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 the balance wheel with a leather belt. As it rotates,
the power is transmitted to the balance wheel by
the leather belt.
26. Treadle is the foot rest at the base of the treadle
machine which is pressed with the feet to operate
the treadle machine.
27. Pressure regulating screw is the screw above the
presser bar, which can be tightened to increase the
pressure on the fabric when stitching with fine/
lightweight fabric and loosened to accommodate
thick fabric.

Sewing machine: attachments and

their functions
Fig.1.16: Blind hem foot
Different machines have separate attachments
for different sewing processes such as hemming,
gathering, etc., but they operate differently
on various makes of machines. The details of
attachments are mostly given in the manual
provided with the machine. Students may discuss
with the teacher and according to the availability
of the sewing machine and attachments,
they can practise on it. Some common sewing
attachments are given here.

Blind hem foot

It is an additional attachment basically used for
Fig.1.17: Braiding foot edge finishing of various apparels like trousers
and skirts, and home furnishing items like
curtains, etc. (Fig.1.16).

Braiding foot
It allows lot of flexibility while attaching elastic
cord, braid or cord (Fig.1.17).

Button fixing foot

It can attach two-holed buttons and four-holed
buttons to the material or garment. In this
machine, the foot holds the button in place and
Fig.1.18: Button fixing foot then attaches the button to the fabric using
zigzag stitch (Fig.1.18).

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 Buttonhole foot
It is used for preparing precise buttonholes or
binding the raw edges. These attachments are
complicated to use on straight stitch machines.
In such cases, it is advisable to handsew the
buttonholes. On a sewing machine, the buttonhole
attachment produces a simple buttonhole stitch
by swinging the needle from side to side. Insert
the attachment by removing the presser foot and
putting the buttonhole attachment in its place
Fig.1.19: Buttonhole foot
(Fig.1.19).

Circular sewing attachment

It allows the operator to stitch in a circular
pattern using straight stitch, zigzag stitch and
any decorative stitches. Circles mostly up to 26
cm in diameter are stitched perfectly using this
popular attachment, which is very essential for
craft and decorative work. This is suitable for
most top loading machines (Fig.1.20). Fig.1.20: Circular sewing attachment

Cording foot
To attach decorative cords and threads, a
cording foot is attached to the machine. This foot
is designed for stitching closed to a raised edge.
It is used for applying cord to the seam (Fig.1.21)
Fig.1.21: Cording foot
Decorative tape foot
This attachment is used to fix trimmings and
ribbons on the fabric (Fig.1.22).

Gathering foot
It is attached to create gathers on a fabric Fig.1.22: Decorative tape foot
with high speed and precision to create perfect
ruffles. This attachment gathers the fabric as it
is stitched with fullness locked in every stitch
(Fig.1.23)

Zigzag foot
It is attached to create designs in fabric using Fig.1.23: Gathering foot

zigzag stitches of different widths (Fig.1.24).

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 Hemmer foot
It works on the sleek and small edges of
fabrics as it automatically curls using either
a straight stitch or decorative stitch at the
hemlines. It works for hems which are
too small to do by hand. It is best suitable
Fig.1.24: Zigzag foot for light weight fabrics. Hemmers make
hems from three-sixteenths of an inch to
seven-eighths of an inch wide, right on the
machine. This attachment means hours
saved from hand turning and basting. The
hem is turned by the hemmer, and at the
same time the line of stitching is guided
close to the edge of the hem (Fig.1.25).

Overcasting foot
Fig.1.25: Hemmer foot
It delivers an accurate and consistent
overcasting stitch where the thread is
locked around the edge of the fabric and
aligned with it to prevent the fabric from
ravelling (Fig.1.26).

Ruffling foot
It easily makes and attaches ruffles on
different types of fabric and finish the
fabric edges. This attachment is capable
of taking gathered or pleated frills, and
will take and apply frills to another section
at the same time. It is useful in making
Fig.1.26: Overcasting foot
children’s clothes and curtains. It is one of
the most important attachments of sewing
machine, and reflects a great deal of credit
upon the inventors of these remarkable
time-and-money-saving bits of steel. The
method of using this attachment varies
with different machines (Fig.1.27).

Zipper foot
It is the footer used for attaching mainly
zips and snap tape. Zipper foot has a
Fig.1.27: Ruffling foot

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 narrow toe foot which gives more precision
and visibility. The foot needs to be adjusted
to right or left to stitch both sides of the zip.
This foot also attaches decorative cording
and piping. There are two kinds of zip
foot attachment: one with an adjustable
foot, the other with a non-adjustable foot
(Fig.1.28).

Elastic foot Fig.1.28: Zipper foot

It helps in attaching elastic to the fabric

and provides even tension every time to
avoid pulling and tugging on the needle
(Fig.1.29).

Embroidery foot
It is suitable for shirring fabric. Its
design allows the elastic thread to pass
easily under the presser foot. On sewing Fig.1.29: Elastic foot
machines, the elastic is couched onto the
fabric. The thread is fed through the presser
foot hole and pulled gently. The more it is
pulled, the more the fabric gathers. On
a straight stitch machine, the elastic is
wound around the bobbin (Fig.1.30).

Overlock foot
It is useful for producing a durable finish on
seams which fray easily or are bulky. It is
Fig.1.30: Embroidery foot
suitable for use on a sewing machine and is
most effective when the fabric is positioned
under the presser foot so that the stitches
form slightly over the fabric edge. A metal
bar holds the edge in place to make sure
that the stitches are set correctly. Test that
you have the correct positioning and stitch
width before you start to sew. Fig. 1.31
shows the attachment of overlock foot. It
can be attached to the sewing machine.

Fig.1.31: Overlock foot

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 Notes
Practical Exercises
Activity 1
Draw the sewing machine and label its different parts.
Material Required
1. Pencil
2. Sharpener
3. Eraser
4. Practical file
5. Ruler
Procedure
1. Draw a diagram of the sewing machine in the practical file.
2. Label the different parts of the sewing machine.

Activity 2
Make a chart of the different attachments of a sewing machine.
Material Required
1. Chart sheet
2. Pictures of different attachments of sewing machine
3. Adhesive/glue
4. Scissors
Procedure
1. Search and collect pictures of different attachments of the
sewing machine.
2. Cut the pictures very neatly with scissors.
3. Paste them on a chart sheet.
4. Label them.
5. Place the chart in the classroom/practical lab.

Activity 3
Identify the different parts and attachments of the sewing
machine under the guidance of instructor/teacher.
Material Required
1. Sewing machine
2. Different attachments (as per availability)
Procedure
1. Identify the parts of the sewing machine one by one.
2. Identify the different attachments of the sewing machine
one by one.

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 Practical Exercises

Activity 4
Notes
Visit a sewing machine shop/boutique/workshop/garment
manufacturing unit. Study the machines and their attachments
used. Prepare a report on the parts, attachments and their
functions.
Material Required
1. Notebook
2. Pen
3. Camera (if available/mobile phones with camera)
4. Vehicle (bus) for field visit
Procedure
1. Visit the local sewing machine shop/boutique/workshop/
garment manufacturing unit with the teacher and study
different types of machine and its latest developments.
2. Identify the different parts of the sewing machine and
explain its functions.
3. Identify the sewing machine attachments.
4. Write down the types of sewing machine used in shop/
boutique/workshop/garment manufacturing units and
write about its parts, functions and operations.
5. Prepare a report of the field visit using photos and materials
collected from the site.

Check Your Progress

A. Fill in the blanks with the most appropriate answer from
the choices given below

1. _____________ is a metal rod to hold the needle at one end

with the help of a clamp.
(a) Thumb screw
(b) Bobbin winder
(c) Face plate
(d) Needle bar
2. ______________ consists of a set of teeth fitted below the
needle plate.
(a) Face plate
(b) Elastic foot
(c) Feed dog
(d) Fly wheel
3. _____________ sewing foot delivers a consistent and accurate
overcasting stitch around the edge of the fabric
(a) Ruffling
(b) Overcasting
(c) Cording
(d) Zipper

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 Notes 4. The function of the clutch is to _____________ .
(a) engage stitch mechanism
(b) raise presser foot
(c) control the speed of the machine
(d) feed the thread to the needle

B. Short answer questions

1. Write down the functions of the slide plate and feed dog.
2. Differentiate between a bobbin winder and bobbin case.
3. Explain the function of hemmer foot and zipper foot.
4. Write short notes on:
(a) Button fixing foot
(b) Overcasting foot
5. Enlist any five sewing machine attachments.

C. Long answer questions

1. Write down the different parts of a sewing machine and their

functions in detail.
2. Write down the functions of any five sewing machine
attachments.

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 2
Sewing Tools and
Sewing Machine
Operations

Introduction
The process of garment making mainly includes the
knowledge and skills of measuring, marking, cutting
and stitching, which is done using appropriate tools.
Different tools and equipment of measuring, marking
and cutting have their own utility and importance.
The selection of needles, threads and fabric based
on suitability is important for good quality production.
If ignored, it may lead to many defects. In this Unit, the
appropriate threads and needles to be used have also
been discussed.
A Sewing Machine Operator should know how to
make preparations before stitching. For example, one
must be aware about fixing the sewing needle, threading,
adjusting thread tension, checking of stitch formation,
etc. The operationalisation of sewing machine is also
described in this Unit.

Session 1: Measuring and Marking Tools

and their Usage
A Sewing Machine Operator must have sound knowledge
of the various measuring and marking tools so as to
enable one to stitch a garment that fits well.

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 Measuring tools
It is important to take accurate measurements to stitch
a well-fitted garment or any article. Proper selection
of measuring tools is essential for taking the
accurate measurements of the body. Accurate
measurements are needed for making correct
pattern to ensure proper fitting of the garment.
Different type of measuring tools which help to do
the job properly are as follows.

Measuring tape
It is a metal tipped cotton or plastic tape to take
measurements. Generally, the size of a measuring
tape is ½ inch to ¼ inch wide, 60 inches long and
has ⅛ divisions (Fig. 2.1). At one end, it has a small
Fig. 2.1: Measuring tape metal cover and at the other end of the tape, there
is a metal strip of about 3 inches long attached to
take measurements from points like round chest, round
waist and length of the garment, etc.

Ruler
It is made up of plastic, metal or wood.
It is better to have two rulers—one being
1 inch wide and 6 inches long, and the
Fig. 2.2: Ruler other one being 2 inches wide and 18
inches long. The 18-inch ruler is with ⅛ inch grid. A
ruler is convenient for measuring small measurements.
A transparent ruler is used to draw straight lines or
bias lines.

Yardstick
It is a straight edge tool used to physically measure
the lengths up to a yard. It is a flat wooden tool with
markings at regular intervals (Fig. 2.3). Yardsticks are
very useful to draw long seam lines on paper or fabric.
Fig. 2.3: Yardstick

L-square
It is an L-shaped wooden or metal ruler, the long arm of
which measures 24 inches and the short arm measures
14 inches. The L-square has a perfect right-angled
corner and it is used to draw the lines at right angles

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 while making drafts. It is very useful during
the process of straightening the fabric to check
whether the corners of the fabric have got a right-
angled structure.

Hem or skirt marker

It is used to mark the hem length
accurately. It is adjustable and is used
as a measuring guide for marking
width for various sections of the
garment like pleats, hems, seam allowances,
etc., accurately using notches provided at regular
intervals along the gauge (Fig. 2.5).
Fig. 2.5: Hem or
French curves skirt marker
It is a template made of plastic,
wood or metal composed of different curves. It is used
in making drafts to draw smooth curves of varying
radii. The French curve is placed on the material and
a pencil is traced around its curves to produce the
required curves. In garment making, French curves are
mainly used for pattern drafting, pattern alteration and
for shaping the armhole and neckline (Fig. 2.6). The
transparent, light and unbreakable plastic material is
most commonly used in French curves.

Vary form curve Fig. 2.6: French curves

It is the most accepted contour ruler. It is basically an

elongated French curve. This tool is used by pattern
makers, graphic artists, illustrators, etc., to sketch
smooth curved lines. The vary form curve draws a wide
variety of curves by turning smoothly. They are especially
helpful to the pattern makers for drawing more defined
curves of the neckline, collar design, sleeve caps, pocket
contour, armhole, elbow, skirt, trousers, or when a
specific contour is required (Fig. 2.7).

Seam or sewing gauge Fig. 2.7: Vary form curve

It is a small 6-inch metal ruler that has a sliding

distance indicator. It has inch markings on one edge
and centimetres on the other edge. It can take exact

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 measurements of small portions such as
hems, pleats, and buttons, or for other
alterations (Fig. 2.8). This is a useful tool
for detail designing and for small repetitive
designs.

Marking tools
Fig. 2.8: Sewing gauge The printed symbols and markings on the
patterns must be transferred to the fabric
to accurately match the seams and position
of pockets, folds, buttonholes, darts, tucks
and pleats. The object is to create precise
marks that do not remain permanently
or stain the fabric, but are visible during
construction.

Tracing wheel
It helps in marking the measurements and
pattern on the wrong side of the fabric using
tracing paper. Tracing wheels are available
in two styles, one with small serrated edge
Fig. 2.9: Tracing wheel which is appropriate for most fabrics, and
another, with a smooth edge used on fine
or knit fabrics to avoid snagging of the
yarns. The tracing method is to keep the
first layer of the right side of the fabric
facing the ground, the second layer is that
of the tracing paper, and the third layer is
a paper pattern on which the tracing wheel
is moved to transfer the markings.

Tracing papers and sheets

A tracing paper is used with the tracing
wheel/pen/pencil to transfer pattern
markings to the wrong side of the fabric
(Fig. 2.10). Care must be taken when
choosing from the wide range of available
colours, since most varieties produce a
Fig. 2.10: Tracing paper mark that remains in the fabric until it has
been laundered.

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 Tailor’s chalk
It is made of coloured powder that is used to transfer
markings on to the fabric. The tailor’s chalk is available
in assorted colours and in different shapes, mainly
rectangular and triangle. It is also available in the form
of a pencil (Fig. 2.11).

Tailor’s wax Fig. 2.11: Tailor’s chalk

It has a consistency like that of a crayon. It is especially
suitable for use on wool or worsted materials. It is
available in a wide range of colours that is, white, yellow,
red, blue, black and fluorescent green, etc. The marks it
produces can only be removed from the fabric with heat
or laundering. Thus, it is advisable to test the tailor’s
wax on a small scrap of fabric before using it on the
right side of the material (Fig. 2.12). Fig. 2.12: Tailor’s wax

Fabric-marking pens
Such pens are air erasable or water soluble. These are
specifically used for marking designs. After tracing the
design, the colour can last for a long time but disappears
completely at once when damped with water (Fig. 2.13).
Air-erasable pens are especially used for dressmaking,
Fig. 2.13: Fabric-marking
shoe making, handicraft, embroidery, etc., for temporary pens (air erasable,
marking (Fig. 2.13). After drawing, the colour evaporates water soluble)
after 2 to 10 days. Sew the garments shortly after
marking, or seal the marked fabric in a plastic bag with
the air squeezed out. To remove the marks, you can dab
the marks with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol.

Pins
Dressmaking pins are mainly made of stainless steel or
brass and are sized from 10 to 32. Size 17 is the general
purpose dressmaker’s pin, but there are several special
varieties that can be useful (Fig. 2.14). Its main function
is to hold the paper or fabric in position during marking,
cutting and stitching. The correct selection of pins for
the specific fabric (based on the size and material of Fig. 2.14: Pins
the pin) is important as a wrong pin used may create a
defect in the fabric.

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 Notes
Practical Exercises
Activity 1

Draw the marking tools in the practical file (any four).

Material Required
1. Pen/pencil
2. Practical file
3. Sharpener
4. Eraser
5. Ruler
Procedure
1. Draw neatly and correctly, any four marking tools with the
help of a pencil and ruler.
2. Label them.

Activity 2
Prepare a chart of the measuring tools.
Material Required
1. Chart paper
2. Pictures of measuring tools
3. Scissors
4. Adhesive/glue
Procedure
1. Search and collect pictures of the measuring tools from the
Internet, books, etc.
2. Cut the pictures neatly.
3. Paste the pictures on a chart paper and label them.
4. Place the chart paper in the classroom/practical lab.

Activity 3
Identify and practise the use of different types of measuring and
marking tools under the guidance of the teacher/instructor.
Material Required
1. Different types of measuring and marking tools
Procedure
1. Visit the practical/sewing lab under the guidance of
the teacher.
2. Identify the different types of measuring and marking tools.
3. Practise the use of each of these tools.

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 Check Your Progress
A. Fill in the blanks

1. Tailor’s chalk is made of _______________, used to transfer

markings on to the fabric.
2. The available varieties of fabric-marking pens are ____________
and _______________.
3. The short arm of the L-square measures 14 inches and the
long arm measures _______________.
4. A _______________ curve is a template made out of metal,
wood or plastic composed of many different curves.
5. The correct selection of pins for the specific fabric is important
as a wrong pin used may create a ____________ in the fabric.
6. _______________ helps in marking the measurements
and pattern on the wrong side of the fabric using the
tracing paper.

B. Questions

1. Explain the various measuring tools and its uses.

2. Explain the various marking tools and its uses.

Session 2: Cutting Tools and Usage

The selection of cutting tools according to the fabric is
important before starting the cutting process. While
selecting the cutting tools, the quality of tools is very
important that is, the quality of metal used, strength/
hardness of blades, its weight and its plating, etc.

Cutting tools
Some of the important cutting tools that a Sewing
Machine Operator must be aware about are listed below.

Bent-handled shears
These shears are available commonly with
7- or 8-inch blades (Fig. 2.15). The bent
handle allows the fabric to lie smooth and
straight when it is being cut, thus yielding
better control over the cutting edge. These
scissors are available in right-handed or
left-handed styles. These scissors are used Fig. 2.15: Bent-handled shears
to cut fabrics only.

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 Scissors
These are the main tool for cutting fabric.
Scissors have sharp, pointed and slender
blades, used for cutting of different materials.
These scissors are mostly 3 to 10 inches long
Fig. 2.16: Scissors in size. These have round handles for both the
blades. Specific fabric-cutting scissors should
not be used for cutting of heavy material as it
may reduce the sharpness of the blades.

Pinking shears
These shears are generally 9 to 10 inches long
(Fig. 2.17). It is useful in finishing raw edges
of fabric or to produce a decorative edge. It
Fig. 2.17: Pinking shears
is one of the best shears for edge finishing of
various type of fabrics, which do not ravel too
badly. It creates a clean zigzag cut line of any
fabric/material or garments. Pinking shears
produce a notched cutting line (zigzag) to give
a neat look to the inside of the garment and
also prevent ravelling.
Fig. 2.18: Embroidery scissors
Embroidery scissors
These scissors are small, usually 4–5 inches
in length with very sharp blades, used for all-
purpose needlework, ripping and for making
buttonholes (Fig. 2.18).

Buttonhole scissors
Fig. 2.19: Buttonhole scissors
These scissors have notched blades
(Fig. 2.19). They are useful if one needs to
make many buttonholes. These scissors have
a bolt and lock nut which is adjusted to cut a
buttonhole of any length upto 1.5 inches.

Electronic scissors
These scissors are used mostly in the industry.
It can cut thin and heavy fabric (Fig. 2.20). It
is appropriate for cutting silk, nylon, soft and
Fig. 2.20: Electronic scissors
hard-to-cut fabric. The backside of scissors is
like a battery in which the cells are fitted. The
scissors move when the button is pressed.

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 Straight knife
It is a cutting machine basically used for cutting
fabrics with perfect edges. This machine has a
base plate and an upright stand to hold the
vertical blade. A straight knife consists of a
motor to transfer the complete assembly to
another position. The straight knife operator’s
efforts are affected by the weight, motor and Fig. 2.21: Straight knife
the base plate movement of the machine.
Straight knives are available with large variety
of sizes and blade speeds in the market. It is
widely used in the garment industry.

Round knife
It has a base plate with an electric motor placed
above it, with a handle to direct the blade for
cutting as per the requirement. It is used for
fabric cutting in garment factories. Though it
is not used as commonly as the straight knife
cutting machine, but it is used for some specific
Fig. 2.22: Round knife
purpose like cutting single ply as well as multi
layer. It is very suitable for gentle curve line
cutting. This is used to cut the larger part of
the garment.

Seam ripper
It is a simple pen-like device that allows
the removal of machine or hand stitched
seams by cutting the stitches in an
Fig. 2.23: Seam ripper
accurate and safe manner. A seam ripper
is the best equipment to rip or open seams
(Fig. 2.23). While removing the stitches, the
fabric should not be pulled as it can stretch
and easily tear the fabric.

Thread cutter
It is a small handy spring loaded tool,
specifically used for cutting extra threads
Fig. 2.24: Thread cutter
on the garments and ripping seams (Fig. 2.24).
Threads are simply cut by pushing the upper
blade down with the thumb.

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 Cutting table
It is a large, flat table used to spread the fabric and
patterns while marking, pinning, and cutting (Fig.
2.25). They are often covered with thick felt, which
allows the pins to be placed into the surface.

Notcher
Fig. 2.25: Cutting table
It is a tool commonly used in pattern making and
sewing. It creates notches in the paper pattern or
material. By notching, one marks the balance points
of the pattern and also seam allowance, centre lines,
ease, dart intake, etc. (Fig. 2.26). Notches are used
to align the pattern pieces.

Fig. 2.26: Notcher

Practical Exercises
Activity 1
Draw any five cutting tools in the practical file.
Material Required
1. Practical file
2. Pencil
3. Eraser
4. Sharpener
5. Ruler
Procedure
1. Draw any five cutting tools in your practical file with the
help of a pencil and ruler.
2. Label them.

Activity 2
Prepare a chart of the cutting tools.
Material Required
1. Chart paper
2. Pencil
3. Scissors
4. Ruler
5. Books/magazines

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 Practical Exercises
6. Pictures of cutting tools Notes
7. Adhesive/glue
Procedure
1. Search and collect pictures of cutting tools from books,
magazines or the Internet.
2. Cut the pictures neatly with scissors and paste on the
chart paper.
3. Label them.
4. Place the chart in the classroom/practical lab.

Activity 3
Identify and practise the use of the different types of cutting tools.
Material Required
Different types of cutting tools
Procedure
1. Visit the practical/sewing lab under the guidance of the
teacher.
2. Identify the different types of cutting tools.
3. Practise the use of these cutting tools.

Check Your Progress

A. Fill in the blanks

1. _____________ are used to align pattern pieces.

2. A __________________________ is used to rip or open seams.
3. _____________ shears are useful in finishing raw edges of
fabric or to produce a decorative edge.
4. _____________ is a small tool specifically used for cutting
extra threads.
5. The cutting table is mostly covered with _____________, which
allows the pins to be placed into the surface.
6. _____________ is the main tool for cutting fabric.

B. Questions

1. Make a list of cutting tools and give their uses.

2. Write short notes on the following:
(a) Pinking shears
(b) Seam ripper
(c) Cutting table

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 Session 3: Needles and Threads
There are various type of needles and threads available
in the market. It is important to select a suitable needle,
thread and miscellaneous tools for sewing.

Hand sewing needles

These needles are used for hand sewing work or
(a) Milliner needle
embroidery. The needle design varies according
to the purpose. Sharps of medium length can
be used on most fabric weights; betweens are
(b) Sharp needle
smaller, allowing them to make fine stitches. Use
long Milliner’s needles for tacking. Needles are
(c) Between needle
mostly available in different sizes—from the very
Fig. 2.27(a, b, c): Hand small size 9 to the heavy size 18 as shown in Fig.
sewing needles
2.27 (a, b, c). The selection of hand sewing needle
depends on the work to be done and the type of
fabric. For hand sewing, medium length needles with
a short oval eye are selected whereas, for embroidery
work, crewel needles with a long oval eye are selected.
The hand sewing needle has three parts—the eye,
stem and point.

Eye Stem Point

Fig. 2.28: Parts of a hand sewing needle

Sewing machine needles

In the garment industry, there are several types of
sewing machine, each requiring different type of needles.
Each manufacturer of the needle identifies its needles
in a different way; and needles for the same type of
system may have several different names or numbers,
depending on the manufacturer.
Though the sewing machine needles are of various
types, they may be selected according to its application.
The size of the needles mainly depends on the structure
and type of fabric, and sewing threads. Machine sewing
needles (Fig. 2.29) are mostly available from sizes
9 to 18. The different type of needles are made to fix
on specific sewing machines and specific models. The

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 needle sizes should match with the weight, thickness, Notes
and kind of the fabric .
If the needle is very fine, it will abrade the thread;
bend, break, affect the loop formation and cause
skipped stitches. If it is too coarse, it will damage the
fabric, producing an unattractive seam, and causing the
seam to pucker. The different parts of a sewing machine
needle are as follows.

Butt
It is a small pyramid at the upper end of the shank. It is
designed to make a single point contact with the hole in
the needle bar [see 2.29 (a, b)].

Shank
The upper end of the needle that is held in the needle bar
by the needle screw is the shank. The shank is usually
round, but it can have one or two flat sides. Designed
to support and stabilise the needle blade, the diameter
of the shank is mostly larger than the diameter of
the blade.

Short groove

Point Eye Blade

Shoulder Shank Butt

Fig.2.29 (a) A sewing machine needle

Scarf

Fig.2.29 (b) A sewing machine needle

Shoulder
It is the beginning of the shank just above the
needle blade.

Blade
It is the thin section of the sewing needle that extends
from the shank to the eye. It can be easily bent and hence,
should be examined regularly for its straightening.

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 Notes Scarf
It is a small indentation above the eye that permits the
hook to pick up the thread loop. On some needles, the
scarf is elongated and/or deeper to ensure that the
needle thread loop will be large enough to prevent the
skipped stitches.

Short groove
It is placed in the side of the needle where the hook or
looper is placed. It is a small groove between the tip and
the needle eye. Short groove helps the sewing thread to
create a loop.

Eye
It is an opening in the needle blade at the lower end of
the long groove. It carries the thread into the fabric to
the hook or looper to make a stitch. The size of an eye is
proportional to the diameter of the blade.

Point
It is the tapered end of the needle and is often considered
the most critical part of the needle. Mostly, the needles
have a round point, ball point, or a cutting point.
Generally, round points and ball points are used for
woven and knit fabrics because they can penetrate the
fabric by spreading the fibres or deflecting the yarns
without damaging them, while needles with cutting
points are used mainly for leather.

The different points of a needle are as follows.

Sharp needle
It is pointed and ideal for almost all woven fabrics.
Ball point needle
It has a slightly rounded tip, which is recommended for
all knit and elastic fabrics.
Wedge point needle
A specially designed needle with a wedge like, triangular
point, which enables it to make large, clean holes through

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 thick material like leather, vinyl or suede (pronounced Notes
as swayed). They are ideal for shoe repair, belts and
other leather garments and accessories.
Sewing machine needles can affect the output of a
sewing machine. When an inappropriate needle or bent
needle is used, it can cause skipped stitches, poor stitch
formation, and even damage to the machine.

Selection of needle, thread and stitch for

various fabrics
There is no rigid rule for the selection of needle and
thread but it should be chosen mainly as per the type of
fabric. The recommended needle and thread selection is
given in the table below.
Table 2.1: Recommended needle and thread selection

S. Type of Fabric Type of Needle Number

No. Thread Number of
Stitches
per inch*
1. Lightweight: lawn, Mercerised 9 or 11 10–15
voile, chiffon, cotton, silk,
organza, fine lace nylon, extra
fine (any fibre),
size: 60–100
2. Medium weight: Polyester, 11 or 14 10–12
crêpe, velvet, cotton-wrapped
gingham, stretch polyester,
fabric, terry, mercerised
brocade, linen, cotton, size:
corduroy, some 50–60
types of denim
3. Heavy: wide rib Polyester, 16 or 18 8–12
corduroy, terry cotton-wrapped
cloth polyester,
heavy duty (any
fibre) size: 30-40
4. Very heavy: Polyester, 16 or 18 8–12
canvas, cotton-wrapped
upholstery fabric polyester,
heavy duty (any
fibre) size: 20
*see terminology

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 Sewing thread
Wide varieties of sewing thread are available in the
market (Fig. 2.30). It is very important to select the correct
sewing thread for the fabric. They should share the
same characteristic as they will be laundered, ironed in
the garment and thus, will stretch and shrink together.
A long staple thread is smoother and creates less lint in
the sewing machine. Made of short staples, the thread
is uneven in texture and the result is less than perfect
stitching. A strong thread is good for construction,
especially on fabrics of natural fibre. Mercerised cotton
has been treated to be smoother and straighter with
less fuzz than other cotton threads. Polyester thread
has a high sheen and is abrasion-resistant. Silk
thread is strong and lustrous. This thread is used for
construction and stitched details such as buttonholes
and top stitching. Always select a thread according to
the type of fabric being used. Use synthetic threads with
man-made fibres and mercerised cotton or silk thread
with cotton or linen. Woollen fabrics should be sewn
with silk or synthetic threads as they have stretching
capacity with the fabric. Select a thread which is one
shade darker than your fabric because when worked on
Fig. 2.30: Sewing thread a garment, a thread appears lighter.
The higher the number on the label of a thread, the
finer it is. When stitched, the thread should be well set
into the fabric to give a firm long-lasting seam. If the
thread is too heavy for the fabric, it will remain on the
surface and tear out quickly, reducing the durability of
your garment.

Thimble
It is used to protect the fingers or thumb in the process
of hand sewing. A thimble helps push the needle to the
fabric painlessly, without harming the finger. Metal,
rubber and plastic thimbles are available in the market.
Always use a thimble while hand sewing. Thimbles can
Fig. 2.31: Thimble be worn in any of the fingers or the thumb of the hand.
Mostly, it is worn in the index or middle finger which
holds the needle. It must be comfortable and should be
light in weight (Fig. 2.31).

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 Stiletto
It is a sharp pointed tool used for punching holes in a
fabric/material (Fig. 2.32). It is used for forming eyelets Fig. 2.32: Stiletto
in belts, and for making intricate holes in garments.

Bodkin
It is a flat needle with a blunt end and a large eye
for threading elastic and tape through a loop or hem
(Fig. 2.33).

Fig. 2.33: Bodkin

Iron
Pressing is an essential part of sewing. Every
seam should be pressed as soon as it has been
sewn, to give a clear, crisp line to the seam.
Your pressing iron should be capable of both
dry and steam ironing. A spray attachment is
useful for dry ironing. An ordinary domestic
iron is essential for general pressing; a steam
iron is useful for lightweight fabrics. Pressing
cloths are most important. Use cheesecloth
for lightweight fabrics and cotton or linen for
heavier fabrics. Fig. 2.34: Iron

Practical Exercises
Activity 1
Visit a sewing machine shop/boutique/workshop/garment
manufacturing unit and make a report on the different type of
needles and threads used for different type of fabrics.
Requirements
1. Notebook
2. Pen
3. Camera (if available, or mobile phones with camera)
4. Vehicle (bus) for field visit

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 Practical Exercises

Notes Procedure
1. Visit the local sewing machinery shops/boutiques/
workshops/garment manufacturing units with your teacher
to study and observe the different type of needles and threads
used for different fabrics.
2. Write down the different type of needles and threads used in
shops/boutiques/workshops/garment manufacturing units.
3. Prepare a report of the study field visit using photos and
materials (if any) collected from the site.

Activity 2
Draw the different type of needles and label their different parts
in your practical file.
Material Required
1. Practical file
2. Pencil
3. Eraser
4. Sharpener
5. Ruler
Procedure
Draw a hand and sewing machine needle in your practical file
with the help of a pencil and ruler. Label its parts.

Activity 3
Identify the following tools—thimble, stiletto, bodkin
Material Required
1. Tools for identification
2. Notebook
3. Pen/pencil
Procedure
1. Visit the practical/sewing lab with your teacher.
2. Identify the given tools.
3. Write in the notebook.

Check Your Progress

A. Match the columns

Tools Functions
(a) Thimble 1. punching holes in material
(b) Needles 2. threading elastic through loop
(c) Bodkin 3. passing the thread through the fabric
(d) Stiletto 4. safety of the finger

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 B. Fill in the blanks Notes
1. Machine sewing needles are available from sizes ____ to _____.
2. _______________ is used for threading elastic or tape through
the loop.
3. _______________ is a protective tool used to fix on the thumb
and fingers for safety from injury.

C. Short answer questions

1. Explain hand sewing needles in brief.

2. Describe the different points of sewing machine needles.
3. Write short notes on:
(a) Thimble
(b) Iron
(c) Threads

D. Long answer questions

1. Explain the different parts of a sewing machine needle

in detail.

Session 4: Preparation and Operation of

Sewing Machine
There are some key steps that need to be kept in mind for
the preparation and operation of the sewing machine.

Preparation of a single needle sewing machine

Before starting the operation process in a single needle
sewing machine, an Operator should be aware of every
aspect relating to the sewing machine. This includes
the problems one may be faced with while working too,
so that they may be rectified by the Operator or can be
reported to one’s supervisor.
The steps for preparing a sewing machine for stitching
are listed below.
(a) Connect the machine to the power supply
(b) Placement of foot control
(c) Adjust the presser foot
(d) Wind the bobbin
(e) Select the correct needle and thread for sewing
(f) Fix the needle into needle bar
(g) Set the bobbin and bobbin case in the machine
(h) Thread the machine

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 (i) Adjust the thread tension
(j) Adjust the stitch length
(k) Check the stitch formation
(l) Check the reverse stitching lever

(a) Connect the machine to the

power supply
Before connecting the power cord, ensure
that the voltage and the frequency shown
on the sewing machine conform to the
electrical power.
1. Connect the plug to connect the
foot control.
2. Now, connect the foot control to the
machine socket.
3. Connect the power plug to the
power socket.
(1) Power plug (2) Power switch (3) Power socket 4. Switch ON the power and sewing light.
(4) Machine socket (5) Foot control plug
(6) Foot control
Note: This step is applicable for a
Fig. 2.35: Connection of power supply to the motorised sewing machine.
sewing machine
(b) Placement of foot control
1. The speed of the sewing machine can
be controlled by the foot control. The
stronger it is pressed on the control,
the faster the machine runs.
2. The foot control should be placed at
the correct position for the Operator
to operate it comfortably.
Note: This step is applicable for a
Fig. 2.36: Foot control
motorised sewing machine.

(c) Adjust the pressure of the presser foot

It is important for a Sewing Machine Operator to have
complete knowledge of the required pressure on the
material, and method of adjusting the pressure when
needed. The pressure of the presser foot is required to
be adjusted as per the thickness or heaviness of the
fabric/material to be sewn. Heavy fabrics require more
pressure than the lightweight fabrics. The pressure
should be heavy enough to prevent the fabric from

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 rising with the needle, and to enable the feed to move Notes
the fabric along evenly without side creeping.
The pressure of the presser foot can be adjusted by
using the thumbscrew. To increase the pressure, turn
the thumbscrew clockwise or downward. To lighten the
pressure, turn the thumbscrew anticlockwise.
When the pressure is appropriately applied correct
stitches will be formed (Fig. 2.37).

Fig. 2.37: Correct stitches

(d) Wind the bobbin

A sewing machine has two thread sources for stitching—
a top thread and a lower thread stored on a bobbin. The
following steps are to be followed to fill the bobbin.
1. To wind the bobbin with the thread, place the
bobbin spool on the bobbin winder fitted on
the top.
2. Wrap the thread from the reel placed in the thread
spool around the bobbin.
3. Press the treadle/foot control or turn the hand
wheel to start winding.
4. The winding in the bobbin should be uniform.
5. Once the bobbin is sufficiently filled with thread,
stop winding and remove the bobbin.

(e) Selection of needle and thread for sewing

For the selection of the appropriate needle and thread,
kindly refer to session 3 of this Unit.

(f) Fix needle into the needle bar

Sewing machine needles have one side flat, so they
can only be placed from one side—usually the flat side
towards the back. The following steps should be followed
to fix the needle into the needle bar.
1. Pull the needle bar to the highest level to insert the
needle (Fig. 2.38 Label: 1).
2. Loosen the screw or needle clamp to fix the needle
(Fig. 2.38 Label: 2).

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 3. Keep in mind that there is a groove. Insert the
needle (Fig. 2.38 Label: 3) in a straight line in the
groove and tighten the needle clamp securely and
tightly to fix the needle properly.
4. If you are still having trouble, refer to your
machine’s manual.

Front

3
Long groove

Fig. 2.38: Attaching the needle

(g) Set the bobbin and bobbin

case in the machine
1. Hold the wound bobbin
1 and bobbin case with
2
both hands.
2. Place the bobbin in the bobbin
case correctly.
3. Pass the thread through a small
notch at the front of the bobbin
case and then pull the thread
out, as shown Fig. 2.39 Label: 1
3
and 2
4. It should be checked that the
bobbin should move clockwise
Fig. 2.39: Threading the lower thread when the thread is pulled out.
5. Leave the end of the thread
outside the bobbin case. It should

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 be brought up through the hole in the needle plate
after the top thread is threaded.
6. Hold the latch of the bobbin case and fix it into the
rotary hook (Fig. 2.39 Label: 3).
7. Lock the bobbin case in the machine.

(h) Thread the machine

1. The take-up lever should be raised to keep the
needle at its highest point which will help in
threading the upper thread.
2. This will make threading easier and it will prevent
the thread from coming out while sewing.
3. Take the thread end with the hand and pull it
through the thread guide at the top, and then
down.
4. Then thread it around the take up lever.
5. Follow the instruction to thread as per the
guidelines printed in your machine’s manual.
6. Usually, the thread follows this general pattern:
left, down, into a hook, through the needle.

(i) Adjust thread tension

For good quality stitching, a balanced
Lower thread
tension or balanced stitches are
desirable. When the tension of the Becomes weaker
Becomes stronger
upper and lower thread is balanced,
the threads interlock in the middle of
the fabric to make perfect or balanced 2
Becomes stronger
stitches. Adjust the tensions only as
Becomes weaker
needed until the stitch is balanced. 1
The tension of the stitch is regulated
by two controls. Fig. 2.40: Adjusting thread tension

1. Upper thread tension

After lowering the presser foot, turn the nut to adjust
the upper thread tension. For this, turn the nut to the
left to loosen it. Turn it to the right to tighten, as shown
Fig. 2.40 Label 1.
2. Lower thread tension
It is adjusted by tightening/loosening the screw of the
bobbin case, as shown Fig. 2.40 Label 2. The bobbin

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 Notes case screw is very short and will fall out if turned too far.
The bobbin case tension screw, which is located on the
bobbin case, controls the tightness of the bobbin case
spring. These controls increase or decrease the amount of
pressure on the threads as they feed through the machine.
Appropriate thread tension is needed for perfect
stitching. The tension on the needle and the bobbin
threads must be heavy enough to pull the threads to
the centre of the thickness of the fabric and make a
firm stitch.
Correct seam with balanced thread tension is shown
in Fig. 2.41.
Upper Thread

Lower Thread

Fig. 2.41: Correct seam

The appearance of seams when the upper tension is

too loose is shown in Fig. 2.42.

Fig. 2.42: Seams when the upper tension is too loose

The appearance of seams when the upper thread

tension is too tight is shown in Fig. 2.43.

Fig. 2.43: Seams when the upper tension is too tight

(a) Correct stitch (b) Too loose (c) Too tight

Fig. 2.44 (a,b,c): Tension problems

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 The structure, texture, thickness, density, and resilience
of the fabric, and the size and type of the thread, affect
the tension. The tension setting will vary with the
material and the thread size and type. Test the tension
before you begin stitching or sewing with a different
fabric, thread, or machine.

(j) Adjust the stitch length

A stitch length regulator/dial is used to adjust the stitch
length and get the desired length.
The stitch length regulator/dial controls the distance
that the feed dogs move the fabric to the back of the
machine to make a single stitch. The bigger number on
the stitch length dial produces a long stitch, and the
smaller number produces a smaller stitch. To change
the stitch length, dial from a larger setting to a smaller
setting, it is simpler to turn the dial.

(k) Checking the stitch formation

Before starting sewing on the final material, it is a
good practice to check the formation of stitch on a
rough fabric. Change the pressure and thread tension
as required for correct stitch on the final material
(Fig. 2.37).
The method of stitch formation in a sewing machine
(Fig. 2.45) is as follows.
1. The needle descend (that is, the downward action
of the needle) passes through the fabric.
2. Then it reaches its lowest point and begins to
rise slowly.
3. It creates a loop. The shuttle enters the slack-loop,
enlarging it and taking with it the under thread,
and when the needle reaches back to its highest
level, a complete interlock stitch is formed.

Fig. 2.45: Steps of stitch formation

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 Notes (l) Checking of reverse stitching lever
1. When the reverse stitching lever is pushed, the
cloth feed direction for sewing will be reversed.
2. When it is returned to its original position, the feed
direction for sewing will change back to normal.

Operating the sewing machine

Single needle sewing machines are mostly used in
domestic tailoring and also in industrial or commercial
production. They are most commonly used as they
serve the purpose of basic seam formation. As the name
suggests, the machine uses a single needle to make a
single seam line. The stitch is formed by interlocking
two threads—the upper and the lower bobbin thread.
The following are the steps for operating a single
needle sewing machine.

(a) Sew on the fabric

1. Raise the presser foot and then turn the flywheel
so that the take-up lever is at its highest level.
2. Pull the upper and lower threads straight back side
under the presser foot to avoid them from knotting
at the beginning of the stitching line.
3. Place the fabric to be stitched under the presser
foot, allowing the seam allowance to the right side
of the needle and the rest of the fabric to the left.
4. Turn the flywheel until the needle point enters the
fabric at the exact beginning point.
5. Lower the presser foot and then start the machine
slowly, simultaneously guiding the fabric gently
with the hand.
6. To check stitch length and proper tension, first
stitch on a scrap, that is rough cloth. Finalise it
and then stitch on the final material.
7. Gradually, increase the speed of the sewing
machine for stitching.
8. The fabric will move forward and the stitch will be
formed continuously.
9. Before the end of the stitching line, stitch slowly
with the right hand on the flywheel and left hand

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 on the fabric that is being worked on (while using Notes
hand machine). Stop the machine in time to not
sew beyond the fabric.
10. Take up the presser foot, then pull the material
straight back with threads under the presser foot
to avoid bending of the needle.
11. Cut the threads using the thread cutter or scissors.
Precaution
1. Do not pull the material/fabric forward or
backward, but hold the two layers slightly tight
and firm at the back and front of the presser foot.
2. Keep the take-up lever at its highest point to
avoid unthreading the needle when beginning to
stitch again.
3. Leave about two to four inches of thread, extending
from the machine to prevent unthreading.

(b) Fastening the thread ends

It is essential to fasten the threads at the ends of
the stitching lines which are not to be crossed later
(for example, points of darts). This can be done in
three ways.
Reverse stitching
Stitch till the termination point with the needle in the
fabric. Now carry out reverse stitching, and then cut
the threads.
Pivoting
Stitch till the termination point with the needle in the
fabric, lift the presser foot and stitch back a small
distance along the seam. Cut the threads.
Tying
After you have reached the end of the stitching line, pull
the fabric back and cut the threads, leaving a length of
about two to four inches extending from the fabric. Pick
the last stitch with a pin or needle point so that both the
thread ends come to the wrong side of the fabric, and
then tie a double knot.

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 Notes
Practical Exercises
Activity 1
Practise the following on a sewing machine in the practical lab.
1. Connecting the machine to the power supply
2. Understanding the placement of foot control
3. Adjusting the presser foot
4. Winding the bobbin
5. Selecting the appropriate needle and thread for sewing
6. Fixing the needle into the needle bar
7. Setting the bobbin and bobbin case in the
sewing machine
8. Threading the machine
9. Adjusting the thread tension
10. Adjusting the stitch length
11. Checking the stitch formation
12. Checking the reverse stitching lever
Material Required
1. Single needle lock stitch machine (manual operated
or motorised)
2. Power socket and outlet
3. Sewing machine needle
4. Screwdriver
5. Thread
6. Bobbin and bobbin case
7. Fabric scraps
Procedure
Follow the instructions given in this session.

Activity 2
Practise operating the sewing machine in the practical lab and
prepare a sample of the different stitch formations.
Material Required
1. Single needle lock stitch machine (manually operated or
motorised)
2. Power socket and outlet
3. Sewing machine needle
4. Thread
5. Bobbin and bobbin case
6. Fabric scraps (10"X10") 4 samples
7. Practical file

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 Practical Exercise

8. Scissors
Notes
9. Adhesive/glue
Procedure
1. Prepare the sewing machine as per instructions given in
this session for stitch.
2. Prepare the samples of correct stitch, or a stitch when the
upper tension is too tight and too loose. Finish the
prepared samples.
3. Attach samples in your practical file.

Check Your Progress

A. Fill in the blanks

1. Speed of sewing machine can be controlled by the

_________________.
2. Check that the bobbin turns _________________ when the
thread is pulled.
3. When the reverse stitching lever is pushed, the cloth feed
direction for sewing will be ________________.

B. Short answer questions

1. Write steps of threading the sewing machine.

2. Write short notes on:
(a) The steps for operating the sewing machine
(b) Placement of foot control
(c) Adjusting the stitch length
3. Write about adjusting the pressure of the presser foot.

C. Long answer questions

1. Explain the thread tension as per the stitch formation with

a diagram.
2. Explain the winding of bobbin and its setting in the machine
3. Describe the operating procedure of a sewing machine and
the precautions while sewing.

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 3
Basics of
Garment Construction

Introduction
Sewing is a creative and interesting art and skill. To
prepare a well-finished garment, its stitching is done by
combining the different garment components. Garment
construction is a technical accomplishment that requires
the knowledge and skills of basic sewing techniques—
application of stitches, seams, darts, gathers, pleats
and edge finishing, etc. Its appropriate application in
garment construction is necessary for a good quality
product. A garment that is made, will be attractive if it
fits well, and proper attention is paid to its finer details.
A Sewing Machine Operator must be aware about
the two sides of the fabric—the right side and wrong
side. These can be mainly identified by the selvedge of
the fabric. Generally the selvedges appear less finished
on the wrong side and are smoother on the right side.
It is essential to know and practise the various types
of stitch, especially constructive stitches which include
temporary and permanent stitches. To construct the
garment, various types of seam are also used such as
flat seam, lapped seam, French seam, slot seam, etc.
The edges of garments are finished using different type
of edge finishes like pinked finish, edge stitched finish,
double stitch finish, etc. This Unit will help you learn
about the various type of stitches, seams, edge finishes,
etc., all of which have a key role in garment construction.

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 Session 1: Various Types of Stitch Notes
This session will help provide the student with a through
understanding of the various kinds of stitch.

Stitches
Almost every garment or other stitched articles we sew,
needs some hand stitches. Thus, we should be able to
handle the needle and thread to carry out hand stitches
competently. Before learning stitching on the sewing
machine, one should learn the basic hand stitches
which are very commonly used in the manufacturing
of garments and other articles. A stitch may be defined
as one unit of conformation resulting from one or more
strands or loops of thread intralooping, interlooping or
passing into or through the material. Intralooping is the
passing of a loop of thread through another loop formed
by the same thread, while interlooping is the passing
of a loop of thread through another loop formed by a
different thread.
The basic hand stitches are divided into two types
depending on their use.

Constructive stitches
It is a line made by a portion of sewing thread passed
over and under an equal or unequal number of threads
for construction purpose. Such stitches can be classified
as temporary and permanent stitches.
1. Temporary stitches
Such stitches are used to hold the garment or fabric
pieces together before permanent stitches are made.
These stitches are also known as tacking or basting
stitches. Usually this stitch is horizontal and it is worked
from the right to the left side with a knot.
Various kind of tacking/basting stitches are as
follows.
(i) Even basting
It is used to hold the fabric together temporarily, but
more securely than in uneven basting. Make even
stitches of about ¼ inch to ⅜ inch long. When easing

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 one layer of the fabric to another layer, hold the layer
to be eased on top and gather this top layer to stitch
(Fig. 3.1).
(ii) Uneven basting
This is used to mark or to hold fabrics together, only
where there is no strain on the stitches. Use this type of
basting, as the guideline on the upper side of the fabric
is at least twice than that on the underside of the fabric.
Make a long stitch, about ½ inch on one side of the
Fig. 3.1: Even basting fabric and then a short stitch ¼ inch on the other side
of the fabric (Fig. 3.2).
(iii) Diagonal basting
This is used to hold two pieces of fabric together when
more than one row of tacking is required. For example,
when you are attaching interfacing to a collar or
mounting a fabric on to an underlining, etc. It may be
done vertically or horizontally (Fig. 3.3).
Fig. 3.2: Uneven basting
(iv) Slip basting
Also called invisible hand basting, it is used when
working from the right side of the fabric, and to mark
fitting alterations, or on occasions where patterns have
to be joined accurately. For example, strips, checks, etc.
Turn under one edge of the material on the seam line.
Fig. 3.3: Diagonal basting
Pin the folded edge carefully to the seam line on the
other edge with pins at right angles to the seam. Take
even tacking stitches alternately through the fold and
through the single edge on the seam line (Fig. 3.4).
2. Permanent stitches
The stitches that form a part of the stitched garment are
called permanent stitches.
Fig. 3.4: Slip basting
(i) Running stitch
This is the simplest form of hand stitch which is used
mainly for gathering and shirring fabrics. When it is
used for both gathering and shirring, make sure that
enough thread should be left to make an unbroken
line of stitches. It is similar to the even basting, but
the stitches are much smaller. The stitches should
be straight, fine and evenly spaced and mostly about

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 1/
16inch to ⅛ inch in length. To carry out the running
stitch, take several very small stitches on to the point of
the needle before drawing the thread through the fabric.
The stitches should be as small as the thickness of the
fabric to allow less than 2mm on fine fabrics (Fig. 3.5).
(ii) Back stitch
It is considered to be very strong and is many a times
Fig. 3.5: Running stitch
used as a substitute for machine stitching. It is mainly
applied when extra strength is needed. Back stitch is very
useful for making strong seams and for finishing
off a line of stitching. The stitches on the front
of the work are small and appear continuous. To
work the back stitch, make a small stitch back
from left to right. Then make a double length
stitch forward on the wrong side of the fabric. So
the needle emerges a stitch’s length in front of the
Fig. 3.6: Back stitch
first one. Repeat this way, keeping the stitches
uniform in size and fairly firm (Fig. 3.6).
(iii) Run and back or combination stitch
In this combination, a back stitch and three or four
running stitches are combined and can be used for
working plain seams done by hand. This stitch is
worked faster than the back stitch and stronger than
the running stitch.
(iv) Hem stitch
It is used for hems on medium weight or lightweight
fabrics. It is mainly used to fasten a raw edge which
should be turned in or to flatten a seam. It appears as
small slanting stitches on the wrong side of the fabric.
The stitch size will depend on the fabric. The thread
should not be pulled taut or the fabric will pucker
(Fig. 3.7).
(v) Half back stitch Fig. 3.7: Hem stitch
This stitch is quite similar to the back stitch, but with a
longer stitch at the back side of the fabric. To carry out
the stitch, make a small stitch back from left to right
and then make a stitch forwards, two and a half times
as long, on the wrong side of the work. Make another
small stitch from left to right on the right side.

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 (vi) Oversewing
It is used to finish seam edges on fabrics which fray
easily. To carry out the stitch, hold the fabric with the
edge to be worked away from the worker. Insert the
needle ⅛ to ¼ inch from the edge, and bring the thread
over the edge of the fabric. Make the next stitch ¼ inch
further on.
(vii) Blind hemming stitch
This stitch is worked on the inside fold of the hem so
Fig. 3.8: Half back stitch that the stitches are almost invisible; thus, the name
‘blind’. The thread should not be pulled tightly. To carry
out the stitch, hold the work with the fold of the hem
towards you, take a very small stitch inside the hem
fold edge, picking up a thread of the single fabric on the
point of the needle before taking another stitch on the
inside hem fold of the garment.
(viii) Buttonhole stitch
This stitch is worked with the needle
pointing towards you, and the fabric
edge away from you. To carry out the
stitch, insert the needle in the right
Fig. 3.9: Oversewing stitch
side of the edge of the buttonhole.
Bring it out ⅛ inch below. Loop the
thread hanging from the eye of the
needle from right to left under the
point of the needle and draw the Fig. 3.11: Buttonhole
needle upwards to knot the thread stitch
at the buttonhole edge.

Decorative stitches
These stitches are also known as embroidery stitches.
This art is practised on all kinds of pliable material
with different types of threads, precious and semi-
precious stones, pearls, shells, beads, etc. There are
different kind of hand embroidery stitches. Some
Fig. 3.10: Blind hemming stitch of the common hand embroidery stitches are stem
stitch, chain stitch, herringbone stitch, feather
stitch, lazy-daisy, satin stitch, cross stitch, Bullion
stitch, etc., which are used to decorate garments, home

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 furnishing items and other articles. As these stitches
are mainly used to decorate the garment or material,
hence, not discussed in detail in this book as shown in
Figs. 3.12(a–i).

(a) Stem stitch (b) Chain stitch (c) Cross stitch

(d) Herringbone stitch (e) Feather stitch (f) Lazy-daisy stitch

(g) Satin stitch (h) Blanket stitch (i) Bullion stitch

Fig. 3.12 (a–i) Decorative stitches

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 Notes
Practical Exercises
Activity 1
Make a scrapbook of the constructive and decorative stitches
and label them.
Material Required
1. Coloured pens/pencils
2. Scrapbook
3. Pictures of constructive and decorative stitches
4. Scissors
5. Adhesive/glue
Procedure
1. Search and collect the pictures of different types of
constructive and decorative stitches.
2. Cut the pictures very neatly with scissors.
3. Paste them in a scrapbook.
4. Label them.

Activity 2
Prepare samples of hand stitches as given in this session.
Material Required
1. Cotton fabric to prepare samples (12" x 12")
2. Needle
3. Thread
4. Frame
5. Pen
6. Pencil
7. Eraser
8. A3-sized chart sheet
9. Glue
10. Markers/coloured pens
Procedure
1. Use slip basting, running stitch, back stitch and hem stitch
to finish four sides of the sample fabric.
2. Make different constructive (temporary and permanent)
stitches on the sample.
3. Paste them on the chart sheet and write where they are used.
4. Label them.
5. Place the chart in the classroom/practical lab.

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 Check Your Progress Notes
A. Fill in the blanks with the most appropriate answer from
the choices given below

1. ____________ stitch forms part of a stitched garment.

(a) Temporary
(b) Permanent
(c) Constructive
(d) Hem
2. ____________ stitch is of equal length about ¼ inch on both
sides of the fabric.
(a) Uneven basting
(b) Slip basting
(c) Diagonal basting
(d) Even basting
3. ____________ stitch is used for hems on medium or lightweight
fabrics.
(a) Hem
(b) Back
(c) Run and back
(d) Decorative

B. Short answer questions

1. Write short notes on the following

(a) Decorative stitches
(b) Buttonhole stitch

C. Long answer questions

1. Describe how to make temporary stitches.

2. Describe how to make permanent stitches.

Session 2: Different Type of Seams

Seams refer to the stitching line where two pieces of
fabric are stitched together. It is the basic building unit
of any garment or stitched article. It is an application
of a series of stitches or stitch types to one or several
thickness of material. Seams mainly construct the
structure of the garment or stitched article. It is also
used for decorative purpose. Decorative seams are
mainly used for decorative purposes while functional
seams are used mainly for the purpose of construction.
An example of decorative seams is a tucked seam, and
example of functional seam is flat seam, French seam,

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 Notes etc. Good appearance in a seam normally means smooth
fabric joins with no missed or uneven stitches and no
damage to the material being sewn. Alternatively, it
means regular gathering to form a style feature, or a
varying but controlled amount of ease to ensure a good
fit of the garment to the body. With the wide variety of
fibre types and fabric construction available, good seam
appearance during manufacturing requires different
techniques. Once it has been achieved, it should be
maintained throughout the lifetime of the garment,
despite the many problems that arise during wearing,
washing and dry-cleaning. Performance of the seams
means the achievement of strength, comfort, durability
and elasticity. Seams should be as strong as the fabric.
Following are the points to be considered while making
seams. Seams are commonly machine stitched but one
can hand stitch a seam using back stitch. Before making
a seam, ensure that the needle and thread used are
appropriate for the fabric weight and texture. Because
the seams of a garment must withstand wear and tear,
the beginning and the end of the line of stitching should
be secured with a few back stitches. To prevent fraying,
enough quantity of fabric should always be left between
the line of stitching and the fabric edge.
There are different type of seams, and the type of
fabric and garment should determine the one you select.
Some commonly used seams are given below.

Flat seam
It is the basic seam (functional seam), joining the edges
of two pieces of fabric. This seam is used on medium
weight fabrics where there is no special strain on the
seam. Mostly, plain straight stitch is used to stitch the
seam. Flat seam can be used on most of the garments
and the seam edges should always be finished as
appropriate for the type of fabric. Although a flat seam
is always made with the right side of the fabric facing,
some other seams will require to be initiated with the
wrong sides of the fabric facing. With the right sides
of the fabric facing, pin the fabric together at both the
ends of the seam line and at intervals along the seam

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 line leaving an allowance of about ¾ inches properly,
close to the seam line. Then stitch along the seam line,
back stitching a couple of stitches at each end to secure
the seam, and remove the pins. After removing the pins,
finish the seam edge by pinking it or as necessary for
the fabric. Press the seam as stitched and then press
it open, using a pressing cloth between the iron and
the fabric.
(a)
Channel seam
This is a decorative seam mostly used in trousers,
pockets of jeans, jackets, etc. It has a strip of fabric
behind it which is visible through the seam fold. It can
be made of contrasting fabric, if desired. With the right
sides of the fabric together, pin and tack along the seam
line. Press the seam open and cut an underlay of the
same or contrasting fabric 1 inch wider than the two (b)
seam edges. With the wrong side of the work facing
you, centre the right side of the underlay on the seam
and pin in the position. Pin and then stitch an equal
distance, each side from the seam depression. Remove
the pins and tacking, then press as stitched.

(c)

(a) Tacked fabric together (b) Underlay pinned to seam

(d)
Fig.3.13 (a, b, c, d) Flat seam

(c) Completed seam

Fig. 3.14 (a, b, c) Channel seam

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 Lapped seam
This seam is used for joining sections of interfacing
to avoid bulking, that is a mass of fabric getting
thick. Lap one edge of the fabric over the other
with the seam lines directly over each other. Tack
and then stitch along the seam line with a wide
zigzag stitch or a straight stitch. Trim the seam
Fig. 3.15: Lapped seam
edges (Fig. 3.15).

Flat felled seam

This is a flat, durable and strong seam used mainly
on men’s sports shirts, work clothes, children’s
clothes and pyjamas. It is time consuming and
difficult to make on curved edges and on bulky
(a) fabrics. Place the fabric pieces to be joined at the
wrong side facing, and then stitch on the seam line.
Press both seam allowances together in the same
direction and trim the under seam allowance to ⅛
inch and the upper one to ⅜ inch (Fig. 3.16 a). Turn
under the raw edge of the wide seam allowance so
as to make a smooth fold of ¼ inch wide. Stitch
close to the folded edge on the right side of the
(b)
garment. The right side of the seam shows two rows
Fig. 3.16 (a, b) Flat felled seam
of stitching and wrong side shows only one row of
stitching (Fig. 3.16 b).

French seam
It is a narrow seam generally used for fine fabrics
or for those fabrics which fray easily. It is a seam
within a seam. When finished, it should be about
¼ inch or less in width. To make the French
(a)
seam, place the wrong sides of the fabric together
(Fig. 3.17 a). Pin and tack in position close to the
seam line. Stitch ¼ inch to the right of the seam line
to the end of the seam. Press as stitched. Pressing
can be done using hands to form a crease or using
a heat pressing iron. Then trim the seam allowance
to ⅛ inch. Press the seam open. Then turn the right
sides of the fabric together. Fold on the stitch line
(b)
Fig.3.17 (a, b) French seam and press. Tack in position. Stitch along the seam
line and press as stitched (Fig. 3.17 b).

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 Mantua maker’s seam
It is used to attach a frill to a straight piece of fabric.
With the right sides of the fabric together, tack along
the seam line and stitch. Trim the frill seam allowance
to ¼ inch. Double fold the other seam allowance over
the raw edge down to the seam line. Stitch very close to
(a)
the seam line then remove tacking and press the seam
upwards, keeping away from the frill.

Double stitch seam

It is used mainly for sheer fabrics. To make this seam,
take the right sides of the fabric together, tack and
stitch along the seam line and press as stitched. Make (b)
another line of stitching in the seam allowance ¼ inch Fig. 3.18 (a, b) Mantua
from the first line, using a fine multi stitch zigzag or maker’s seam
straight stitch. Then trim the raw edge using a scissors
or a pinking shear to prevent the fabric from fraying.

Lingerie seam
It is used mainly for making very fine seams. It is so
named because of its use in lingerie. To make the seam,
take the right sides of the fabric facing; pin, tack and
then stitch along the seam line. Then press as stitched.
Finish the seam edges with pinking scissors and press
both seam allowances to one side. Stitch seam edges on
Fig. 3.19: Double stitch seam
the right side with small stitches of zigzag.

Tucked seam
It is a decorative seam and generally used as a design
feature on a garment. If a tucked seam is used on a
fabric which frays easily, the seam edges should be
finished by oversewing. To make a tucked seam, take
the right side of the fabric facing you, turn under the
seam allowance on one piece of fabric, and then pin

Fig. 3.20: Lingerie seam

(a) (b) (c)

Fig. 3.21 (a, b, c) Tucked seam

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 Notes into place. Place the folded edge of the seam line on
the right side of the second piece of fabric, putting the
edges together. Tack and stitch the desired width from
the folded edge. Remove tacking threads and trim off
the seam edge underneath the seam. Press as stitched.

Practical Exercises
Activity 1
To identify the various seams used on a pair of denim jeans,
pillow covers, shirt, skirt, frock, bloomer and blouse.
Material Required
1. A pair of denim jeans
2. Pillow covers
3. Shirt
4. Skirt
5. Frock
6. Bloomer
7. Blouse
8. Pen
9. Pencil
10. A3-sized chart sheet
11. Eraser
Procedure
1. Place each of the above items in front of you.
2. Begin by observing and identifying the seams used in each
of these. Make a note of your observations.
3. Now take an A3-sized chart sheet and draw out a table.
4. While preparing the chart, remember to refer to the notes
you made earlier.
5. List the names of the items you observed such as frock,
shirt, blouse, etc., on the left side. Now write your
observations on the kind of seams used in each of these on
the right side of the table.

Activity 2
Prepare samples of different seams as given in this session.
Material Required
1. Cotton fabric to prepare samples (12" x 12")
2. Needle, thread and scissors
3. Pen

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 Practical Exercises

4. Eraser Notes
5. Pencil
6. Practical file
7. Adhesive/glue
8. Markers/coloured pens
9. Sewing machine
10. Bobbin/bobbin case
Procedure
1. Prepare samples of different seams.
2. Finish the edges of the samples.
3. Attach them in the practical file and write where they are used.
4. Label them.

Check Your Progress

A. Fill in the blanks with the most appropriate answer from
the choices given below.

1. Channel seam is a _____________ seam.

(a) decorative
(b) functional
(c) Both (a) and (b)
(d) None of the above
2. ________________ seam is used for joining section or parts of
interfacing to avoid bulk.
(a) Welt (b) Lapped
(c) Channel (d) French
3. Tucked seam is a _____________________ seam.
(a) functional
(b) decorative
(c) Both (a) and (b)
(d) None of the above
4. ________________ is a seam within a seam.
(a) Flat (b) French
(c) Lapped (d) Channel

B. Short answer questions

1. Write short notes on the following

(a) Double stitch seam
(b) Lapped seam
(c) Lingerie seam

C. Long answer question

1. Describe the various type of seams in detail along with

a diagram.

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 Session 3: Edge Finishes
Edge finishes are made to prevent fraying of the raw
edges of the fabric or garment and thus, make the fabric
edge more durable and attractive. They also provide
a neat appearance to the inner side of the garment.
Although edge finishes are not essential for completion
of the garment, it can add durability to a garment’s life.
There are various types of edge finishes. They may be
carried out by hand stitches or by sewing machine.
Some of the common edge finishes are described in
this session.

Different type of edge finishes

Pinked finish
This is a quick method of finishing done with pinking
shears (a kind of fabric cutting scissors). After stitching,
trim the edges, preferably at a distance of ⅛ inch by
using pinking scissors (also called pinking shears).
This technique is not used on fabrics that ravel badly
(Fig. 3.22).
Fig. 3.22: Pinked finish
Edge stitched finish
This is a neat finish for light to medium-weight, non-
bulky fabrics. In this finish, the seam is stitched and
pressed open. Then turn under ¼ inch on each seam
edge. Stitch close to the fold without catching the
garment (Fig. 3.23). This is a bulky type of finish and
is not suitable for deeply curved seams. This finish is
mostly used on unlined coats and jackets where the
Fig. 3.23: Edge stitched finish
seam allowance is wide.

Double stitch finish

After making a plain seam, to carry out double stitch
finish work, an extra line of stitching is made about
¼ inch from the raw edge of the fabric or garment
(Fig. 3.24). This is done for a plain unfinished seam or
pinked seam. It is not suitable for bulky fabrics. This
Fig. 3.24: Double stitch finish type of finish is commonly used on sheer fabrics.

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 Herringbone finish
This finish neatens the raw edges of heavy material
like flannel, brocade, tweed, etc. It also holds down the
turning, making the seam flat, avoiding the bulkiness.
After pressing the seam open, herringbone stitches are
worked on the two raw edges (Fig. 3.25).
Fig. 3.25: Herringbone finish
Bound seam edge finish
In this method, the seam is pressed open and a separate
piece of binding (a double folded bias strip) is attached
to both the seam edges (Fig. 3.26) and tacked. It is often
used on lightweight fabrics like silk, chiffon, etc.

Practical Exercises Fig. 3.26: Bound seam edge

finish
Activity 1
Draw pictures of various types of edge finishes and prepare
a scrapbook.
Material Required
1. Pen
2. Pencil
3. Sharpener
4. Eraser
5. Scrapbook
6. Ruler
7. Markers/coloured pens
Procedure
1. Draw edge finishes on the scrapbook and write where they
are used.
2. Label them.

Activity 2
Prepare samples of edge finishes as given in this session.
Material Required
1. Cotton fabric to prepare samples (12"X12")
2. Needle and thread
3. A3-sized chart sheet
4. Adhesive/glue
5. Pen

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 Practical Exercises

Notes 6. Pencil
7. Eraser
8. Markers
9. Coloured pens
10. Pinking scissors
11. Sewing machine
12. Bobbin/bobbin case
Procedure
1. Prepare samples of edge finishes.
2. Paste them on a chart sheet.
3. Label them.
4. Place the chart in the classroom or practical lab.

Check Your Progress

A. Fill in the blanks with the most appropriate answer from
the choices given below.

1. ______________ seam edge is trimmed with pinking shears

and gives a zigzag appearance.
(a) Pinked finish
(b) Herringbone
(c) Double-stitch finish
(d) None of the above
2. In ______________, a separate piece of binding is attached to
both seam edges.
(a) pinked edge
(b) bound seam edge finish
(c) herringbone finish
(d) double stitch
3. ______________ finish is suitable for heavy fabrics.
(a) Pinked edge
(b) Edge stitch
(c) Herringbone
(d) None of the above
4. ______________ finish is commonly used on sheer fabrics.
(a) Herringbone
(b) Double stitch
(c) Bound seam edge
(d) Edge stitch
5. Edge finishes are made to prevent ______________ of the raw
edges of the fabric/garment.
(a) Basting
(b) Hemming
(c) Fraying
(d) None of the above

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 B. Short answer questions Notes
1. Write short notes on the following
(a) Bound seam edge finish
(b) Herringbone finish
(c) Pinked seam
(d) Edge stitch finish
2. Explain the double stitch finish.

C. Long answer question

1. Describe various type of edge finishes and their use in detail

along with diagrams.

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 4 Care and
Maintenance of
Sewing Machine

Introduction
The care and maintenance of a sewing machine helps
to improve its working. This consists mainly of cleaning,
oiling, and right handling, which contributes to good
output, quality production and safety of the workers.
Care and maintenance is also necessary in order to
operate the machine smoothly and for its long term
use. It is very important to identify the sewing defects
such as upper thread break, bobbin (lower) thread
break, bunching of threads, skipped stitches, irregular
stitches and stitches that are not formed properly, etc.,
for proper working of sewing machine and good quality
production. This Unit discusses the cause and different
defects and the corrective action to be taken.

Session 1: Cleaning, Oiling and Handling of

Sewing Machine
A clean, well-oiled sewing machine is essential for good
output and safety. The maintenance of sewing machine
is also important in preventing stitching faults. When not
in use, keep the machine covered with a suitable cover to
prevent dust from settling on it. In some organisations,
this is done by the operators but in others, it is done by
a mechanic.

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 Cleaning of sewing machine
While cleaning the machine, pay attention to the various
parts of the machine, the machine table or stand, the
work station, and even your hands, to avoid soiling the
material being sewn, prevent accidents and damage to
the machine. These directions mainly hold true for the
lockstitch machine, but they can easily be adapted to
other machine types also. The machine should always
be kept covered when not in use to protect from dirt and
dust. Before attempting to clean the machine, it is wise
to remove the needle to avoid the danger of sewing into
the finger during the cleaning process.

Material required for cleaning

1. Flat paintbrush (½" to ¾" wide)
2. Cleaning solvent or fluid
3. Soft disposable cloth
4. Screwdriver
5. Sewing machine manual
6. Small handy vacuum cleaner
All dust and dirt can be removed by wiping the part
out carefully with the cloth, but if the machine is clogged,
a more careful cleaning is necessary. Common tools like
a small dry brush or old toothbrush or compressed air
and a soft cloth are used to remove dust and lint.

Fig. 4.1(a, b) Tools for cleaning sewing machines

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 Notes Points to be considered while cleaning
1. Before cleaning any machine, turn it off.
2. Open the slide plate and remove the bobbin
case. Then remove the throat plate. Whenever it
is required, remove the face plate from the left
end of the head.
3. Any lint, dust, or loose threads in the area
around the feed dog and rotary hook, shuttle
may be brushed or blown away. Do not use
anything hard, such as a screwdriver or scissors
points, to remove the lint. Instead, carefully use
a pointed instrument like a needle or pointed
tweezers/plucker to pick out bits of thread and
lint that cannot be brushed out.
4. Turn the hand wheel manually to expose any
areas that might have been hidden initially.
Brush again.
5. Carefully tilt the machine head back until the
head rests on the post on the back of the table.
6. Brush out any lint, dust, or threads from the
lower part of the machine.
7. Use a soft, thin and clean cloth to remove any
lint on the machine parts.
8. Unscrew all plates and screws and the
bobbin case.
9. Check the needle to be sure it is clean and the
eye is not clogged.
10. Replace the needle, if necessary.
11. Wipe away any excess oil or dust on the head,
machine bed, motor, table, and stand.
12. If there is lint between the tension discs and
in the thread guides, use thread to floss the
tension discs and remove any lint.
13. If you have oiled the machine, sew on few scraps
to remove any excess oil.
14. Wash hands after cleaning and oiling
the machine.
15. After completing the work, put a piece of fabric
under the foot, lower the presser foot, cover the
machine, and pick up any trash.

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 16. For cleaning the machine, it is good to clean one Notes
area at a time. Remove only those parts that
are detachable, and keep in mind the position
and direction of each part that is removed for
cleaning. Keep the parts in order to make it
easier to attach them.
17. When using a screwdriver, apply pressure on
the screw, if a screw does not loosen easily.
Soak it in a good quality cleaning fluid available
in the market for the sewing machine. Petrol or
kerosene can also be used as cleaning fluids.
Then set the screwdriver in the slot to loosen
the screws if required.
18. Remove all the parts that is, the needle, presser
foot, slide plate, throat plate, bobbin case, and
the face plate. Put them in the tray and soak in
cleaning fluid.
19. Wrap the motor to protect it from oil and cleaning
solvent. Ensure that the sewing machine has
been unplugged.
20. To clean the feed dog, remove the needle plate of
the machine and brush off all lint deposits and
dirt sticking to different parts.
21. To clean the shuttle case, remove all the screws
holding the shuttle case. Take out the shuttle
case and wipe its groove free of dirt, and
thread bits.
22. Sometimes loose threads wind around the pivots
of the treadle and make the sewing machine
hard to run. Thread bits must be removed which
are caught in the wheel along with all lint and
dust sticking to the treadle parts.
23. Use a cloth or small brush to clean near the
needle and feed dog.
24. If the machine starts to run hard, it is an
indication that dirt or lint is jammed inside a
bearing. In that case, remove the bobbin case to
remove all lint and stray threads. Continuously
run the machine and flush it with the cleaning
fluid until the dirt and gummed oil are washed
from the bearing.

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 Notes 25. The bobbin case can be removed from the sewing
machine easily. Use a dry brush to clean out
all lint. Remove any thread that may be wound
up around the hook shaft. In some machines,
the hook assembly can also be removed for
complete cleaning.
26. Remove bobbin and bobbin case, and clean
small thread particles from there.
27. Pull a piece of cloth soaked in the solvent, back
and forth between the discs to clean it from
dust, lint or any other particles. Repeat with a
dry cloth to make sure that no lint or thread is
caught between them. To remove any remaining
dirt and oil, dip a cloth or brush in a cleaning
fluid and scrub all parts of machine that can be
reached. Check the lower tension of the bobbin
case and the upper thread tension discs. Pull a
thread under the bobbin to remove dirt.
28. Clean the hand wheel, washer, and the shaft.
Lubricate the shaft with two drops of sewing
machine oil and place a small amount of
grease on all gears. Reassemble the hand wheel
and clutch.
After properly cleaning these areas, reassemble all the
parts of the sewing machine and run it. If reassembled
correctly, it should run smoothly.

Oiling the sewing machine

Always keep your sewing machine well oiled. All dust
should be removed from the exposed parts at least once
every week, and the important parts of the machine
should be oiled. Use good quality sewing machine oil.
Always remove lint deposits, dust and thread bits before
oiling any part of the machine. In order to operate the
machine smoothly, it is essential to oil it repeatedly.

Material required
1. Sewing machine manual
2. Sewing machine oil
3. Soft disposable cloth

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 Points to remember while oiling the sewing Notes
machine
1. Before oiling, ensure that the sewing machine is
turned off.
2. Oil the machine using the directions given in
the machine manual. Inspect the condition of all
visible parts of the machine every time you oil it.
3. If a manual is not available, oil the machine as per
the directions of the teacher/instructor as per the
required frequency.
4. Locate oil holes of the sewing machine. They are
mostly identified by arrows, or red or yellow paint.
Put one to two drops of oil into each hole. Too
much oil will clog the machine. Turn the hand
wheel manually so that the oil will work its way
between the parts.
5. Wipe off all dust and excess oil from the machine
or table; clean up any spilled oil immediately.
6. Sew on a few fabric scraps to remove any
excess oil.
7. Wash hands after oiling the machine.
8. Excess oil is a major problem that can spoil and
damage the fabric.

Method for oiling of the sewing machine

It is necessary to oil the sewing machine periodically. If
the machine is used everyday, oil it once a week. If you
do not use it very regularly, then oiling once a month is
sufficient. The frequency of oiling depends on its use,
and sometimes on the material sewn. To oil thoroughly,
remove the upper thread, needle plate, slide plate, face
plate, bobbin case, and needle and presser foot. Put
sewing machine oil in all oil holes and joints where one
part rubs against another. One or two drops of oil are
enough for each point. While oiling, turn the fly wheel
back and forth to facilitate the flow of the oil to different
moving parts. It is necessary to oil the shuttle case. After
oiling the points on the head of the machine, tilt the
machine head back to oil the points on the underside.
On a treadle machine, the belt will have to be released

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 Notes before tilting the machine head back. Remember to oil
the pivots of the treadle. When the machine has been
completely oiled, wipe away excess oil and run it slowly
for 2–3 minutes on a waste piece of material. Before
you close the machine, place a scrap of fabric under
the presser foot and lower the needle. The fabric will
absorb the excess oil that might drain down through
the machine and will prevent the formation of oil spots
on your work the next time the machine is used.
If the sewing machine becomes gummed and dirty
with oil, put a drop of kerosene or petrol in each oil hole
and at joints, and run it rapidly for 1–2 minutes. Then
wipe off the oil that oozes out with a soft cloth and re-oil
the machine. It will require a second oiling within few
hours after this treatment.
Check the machine instruction booklet/manual to
determine the types of oil lubricant to use and where to
use them. Do not oil the tension discs, the hand wheel
release or the belts and rubber rings in any machine.
Run the machine so the oil would be distributed
into all the bearings. Use oil freely because all oil has
been removed in the cleaning process. For later oiling,
one drop of oil on each bearing and in each oil hole
is enough.
After oiling the sewing machine, wipe away the
excess oil and reassemble the machine. The oil used
should be of good quality, preferably regular machine
oil, as otherwise it may clog the bearings. Care should
be taken to see that too much oil is not deposited in, as
it is liable to spoil the cloth being stitched. It is advisable
to do a few stitches on a waste piece of cloth until clear
stitches are obtained.

Care and maintenance of sewing machine

Most sewing machines encounter problems that can
be traced to poor general maintenance or neglect. But
with some simple tools and just a few minutes daily,
weekly, or monthly, depending on how much our
sewing machine is used, we can help keep our machine
running smoothly.

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 Handling of sewing machine Notes

Safe handling procedure of sewing machine

The safe handling procedure of the sewing machine
involves:
1. Setting up of the sewing machine
2. Adopting safety measures before starting sewing
3. Adopting safety measures during sewing

Setting up of sewing machine

(i) Position the machine on a hard flat surface.

(ii) Select and install the needle securely into the
needle bar.
(iii) Select the suitable thread according to the type of
fabric to be used.
(iv) Wind the thread into the bobbin.
(v) Following the thread guide, thread the machine
from the spool pin to the needle.
(vi) Set the machine of required stitch length.
(vii) Balance the thread tension on the sewing machine
(adjust the upper tension in relation to the
lower tension).

Adopting safety measures before starting sewing

(i) The sewing machine cord must be in good

condition. Switch off the sewing machine before
threading the needle, and after every use, turn the
machine off or unplug it.
(ii) Ensure that there is enough light while using the
sewing machine. Using a sewing machine in poor
lighting can lead to any accident or mishappening.
(iii) Keep the feet off the treadle when setting or
threading the needle.
(iv) Use the hand wheel to move the needle to its highest
position while the fabric is placed for sewing.
(v) One needs to hold the top and bottom loose thread
ends before starting the machine.

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 Notes Adopting safety measures during sewing
(i) Practise on a scrap material to check against oil
stains, etc.
(ii) Notice the way the sewing machine sounds. If the
sewing machine makes some abnormal sounds
or seems louder than usual, get it checked by a
technical expert.
(iii) Sew at a slow, steady pace and use a needle guard
to protect the fingers.

Handling of material, tools and equipment

Handling of material
1. Select appropriate needle, thread and stitch length
suitable for the different type of fabrics.
2. Practise on the scrap material prior to starting
work on the final fabric to avoid oil stains.
3. Also make a trial stitch on the waste fabric.
4. Take care to set the presser foot in a way so as to
hold the fabric in place.
5. Position the fabric on the machine in such a way
that the larger portion of the fabric falls on the left
hand side of the sewing machine.
6. Take care while sewing slippery fabrics, and
if essential, use lining to give firmness to the
slippery fabrics.

Care and handling of tools and equipment

Measuring tape
It is used for taking body measurements and requires
very little maintenance. The tape should be clean to
check the accuracy of the markings. After each use, the
measuring tape should be rolled or wrapped and kept
in a clean box.
Sewing gauge
These are hand tools for measuring small areas during
sewing. Sewing gauges are handy to have for hand
sewing, marking alterations, hemming, checking the
width of seam allowances, etc. A six inch aluminium

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 ruler is the most common gauge. Select a jigsaw puzzle Notes
shaped gauge which will have markings for the most
common sewing measurements that are either seam
allowances, turned under or hemmed. A sliding marker
helps to keep the measurements uniform. Do not allow
the metal gauges to get bent.
Pin cushions
These hold the pins and needles during working to
prevent accidents while working. A magnet attached pin
cushion is very helpful in holding the pins but when
more varieties of pins are used, it will not help to keep
the pins separated. Select a standard pin cushion filled
with fine sand, so that the abrasion of fillers may prevent
the pins from dust and getting rusted.
Hand sewing needles
These needles are available in varying sizes and points.
They guide the thread through the fabric while hand
sewing. It is advisable to purchase hand sewing needles
of good quality stainless steel material to prevent them
from rusting. The needle should always be kept in a dry
and clean case. To avoid a finger injury while searching
through the loose needles, they may be kept with a small
piece of thread passed through its eye. To avoid damage
to the point of the needle, it should not be pressed or
pricked on a hard surface.
Sewing needle threader
A needle threader is used for threading a sewing needle
easily and quickly. The needle threader should have
a large enough eye to hold the thread, as forcing the
metal wire of the threader can cause it to break. Being
very small, it should be kept carefully in a small box to
avoid any damage.
Seam ripper
It is used to remove the fine stitches and to pick out
single threads. Keep the seam ripper sharp and clean,
and use it only for sewing tasks. To prevent injuries and
damage, keep the seam ripper covered when not in use.
Select an appropriate seam ripper for use as it may cut
the fabric while removing the seam. For example, larger,

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 Notes heavier seam rippers are available for heavy removal
jobs or cutting through heavy threads.
Dressmaking shears
Such shears are used for cutting out patterns, fabrics
and soft material. Use the shear for cutting fabrics and
soft material only. If used on anything other than fabric,
(thick sheet, etc.), it will reduce the sharpness of shear
or cause it to become blunt, causing uneven cutting,
shredding of fabric and hand fatigue. Keep the blades
sharp and clean.
Pressing cloth
It helps to remove fabric creases and wrinkles while
ironing. A press cloth is essential to protect the fabric
from direct contact with a hot iron. Also a see-through
press cloth allows one to go through the pressing task
through the press cloth. It should always be clean and
oil free for protecting the garment from oil and dust.
Hams and sleeve rolls
Hams and sleeve rolls are wonderful for pressing curves.
They should always be clean and oil free.

Practical Exercises
Activity 1
Practise the cleaning of sewing machine and its different parts.
Material Required for Cleaning
1. Flat paintbrush (½" to ¾" wide)
2. Cleaning solvent or fluid
3. Soft disposable cloth
4. Screwdriver
5. Sewing machine manual
6 Small handy vacuum cleaner
Procedure
1. Visit the practical/sewing lab with your teacher.
2. Practise the cleaning of sewing machine and its different
parts as per the instructions given in this session.

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 Activity 2 Notes
Practise the steps involved in the oiling of sewing machine.
Material Required
1. Sewing machine
2. Lubricating oil
3. Cleaning cloth
4. Rough fabric
Procedure
1. Visit the practical/sewing lab with your teacher.
2. Place newspapers below the sewing machine so that the
floor should not be dirty and the newspapers can be
thrown away after oiling.
3. Oil all the parts of machine using machine oil.
4. After oiling the machine, clean the extra oil on
the machine.
5. Check stitching on a rough fabric so that the machine is
checked for smooth running.

Check Your Progress

A. Match the columns

Sewing Tools Uses

(a) Pin cushions 1. Cutting out of patterns and fabrics
2. Protect the fabric from direct
(b) Seam ripper
contact with hot iron
(c) Pressing cloth 3. Holds pins and needles
4. Remove fine lines and single
(d) Dressmaking shears
threads

B. Fill in the blanks

1. The measuring tape should be clean to check the

______________ of the markings.
2. ____________________________ is a hand tool for measuring
small areas during sewing.

C. Questions

1. Describe the cleaning of the sewing machine.

2. Write about the oiling of the sewing machine.
3. Explain the safe handling procedure of the sewing machine.
4. Write in detail about the care and handling of tools
and equipment.

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 Notes Session 2: Machine and Sewing Defects and
its Solutions
Some of the common defects related to sewing and
the sewing machine, the possible causes, and the best
possible corrective actions associated with these are
given below.

Defect: The machine does not feed the material.

Possible causes
(i) The stitch length has been set to zero.
(ii) The presser foot pressure is too low.
(iii) Feed dog is lowered.
(iv) Threads are knotted under the fabric.
Corrective action
(i)Set the proper stitch length.
(ii)Set pressure of presser foot.
(iii)Raise feed dog.
(iv) Remove fabric and knotted threads. Then again
place the fabric properly.
(v) Place both threads back under the presser foot
before starting to sew.

Defect: Machine running heavily

Possible causes
(i) Dust or lint clogging under the feed dog
(ii) Insufficient oiling
(iii) Thread caught in the shuttle
(iv) Machine not used for sometime with the result
that the parts have jammed
Corrective action
(i) Clean the feed dog.
(ii) Oil the machine properly.
(iii) Remove the thread from the shuttle.
(iv) Disassemble the removable parts, clean and
oil them.

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 Defect: The sewing machine does not run. Notes

Possible causes
(i) The presser foot is not properly placed and the
needle hits the presser foot.
(ii) The needle has come out and is in the shuttle area
of the machine.
Corrective action
(i) Place and tighten the presser foot properly.
(ii) Remove the needle and insert a new one again, or
place it at the right position.

Defect: The upper thread breaks.

Possible causes
(i)The threading is not correct.
(ii)The thread has a knot in it.
(iii)The upper thread tension is too tight/high.
(iv) The needle is bent or blunt.
(v) Wrong size of needle
(vi) The needle has been inserted wrongly.
(vii) The needle and thread do not match, and are also
not suitable for the fabric to be sewn.
(viii) Started stitching too fast
(ix) Thread take-up lever has not been threaded

Corrective action
(i) Thread the machine correctly.
(ii) Remove knots from the thread.
(iii) Make correct the thread tension.
(iv) Replace with a new needle, of good condition.
(v) Replace with a needle of the correct size.
(vi) Insert the needle properly.
(vii) Use a suitable thread and needle.
(viii) Start the machine at a medium speed.
(ix) Check the threading order.

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 Notes Defect: The bobbin thread breaks
Possible causes
(i) The bobbin has not been fully inserted/pushed in
the bobbin case.
(ii) The bobbin case has not been threaded correctly.
(iii) The bobbin does not turn smoothly in the bobbin
case.
(iv) A lint in the bobbin case or shuttle
Corrective action
(i) Securely install the bobbin in the bobbin case.
(ii) Thread the bobbin case correctly.
(iii) The bobbin should not be overwound.
(iv) Check that the bobbin has been wound evenly.
(v) Clean the bobbin case and shuttle, and remove
the lint.

Defect: Skipped stitches

Possible causes
(i) The thread tension is too tight/high.
(ii) The needle is bent or blunt.
(iii) Wrong size of the needle
(iv) The needle and thread do not match.
(v) The thread take-up lever has not been threaded.
(vi) Light pressure on the presser foot
(vii) Incorrect setting of the needle
Corrective action
(i) Correct the thread tension.
(ii) Replace with a new needle of good condition.
(iii) Replace with a needle of correct size.
(iv) Use a suitable thread and needle.
(v) Check the threading order.
(vi) Increase pressure on the presser foot.
(vii) Reset the needle properly.

Defect: The stitches are not formed properly

Possible causes
(i) The thread has not been pulled into the thread guide.

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 (ii) Threading is not correct. Notes
(iii) The bobbin case has been threaded wrongly.
Corrective action
(i) Fully pull the thread into the thread guide
(ii) Correct the threading.
(iii) Correctly thread the bobbin case.

Defect: Irregular stitches

Possible causes
(i) Incorrect size of the needle
(ii) Improper threading
(iii) Loose upper thread tension
(iv) Pulling of the fabric
(v) Light pressure on the presser foot
(vi) Loose presser foot
(vii) Uneven or overwound bobbin
Corrective action
(i) Choose the correct size of the needle for the thread
and fabrics.
(ii) Rethread the machine properly.
(iii) Tighten the upper thread tension.
(iv) Do not pull the fabric; guide it gently.
(v) Increase pressure on the presser foot.
(vi) Reset the presser foot.
(vii) Rewind the bobbin properly.
(viii) Remove overwinding of the bobbin.

Defect: Fabric pucker

Possible causes
(i) The stitch length is too long for the material.
(ii) The needle point is blunt.
(iii) Incorrect thread tension
(iv) Light pressure on the presser foot
(v) The fabric is too sheer or soft.
(vi) Using two different sizes or kinds of upper and
lower threads

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 Notes Corrective action
(i) Decrease the stitch length.
(ii) Replace with a needle of good condition.
(iii) Reset the thread tension.
(iv) Increase pressure on the presser foot.
(v) Use an underlay of tissue paper/backing.
(vi) The upper thread and bobbin thread should be of
the same size and kind.

Defect: Bunching of thread

Possible causes
(i) The upper and lower threads are not drawn back
under the presser foot.
(ii) The placement of the feed dog is down.
Corrective action
(i) Draw both threads back under the presser foot.
(ii) Fit the feed dog properly.

Defect: Needle breaks

Possible causes
(i) A thin needle was used for sewing a heavy weight
material.
(ii) The needle has not been fully inserted/pushed
into the needle bar.
(iii) The screw of the needle clamp is loose.
(iv) The presser foot is not the correct one.
(v) The presser foot is loose.
(vi) Pulling of fabric
Corrective action
(i) Use the correct size of the needle.
(ii) Properly insert/push the needle in the needle bar.
(iii) Securely tighten the needle clamp screw.
(iv) Use correct presser foot.

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 (v) Reset the presser foot. Notes
(vi) Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.

Defect: Loud noise is heard and/or knocking noise;

machine jammed

Possible causes
(i) Dust has accumulated in the feed dog.
(ii) Lint is in the hook and shuttle area.
(iii) The thread is caught in the shuttle.
Corrective action
(i) Clean the machine and remove the lint.
(ii) Disassemble the shuttle case and clean it.
(iii) Oil the machine.

Defect: Threading cannot be done

Possible causes
(i) The needle is not at the highest position.
Corrective action
(i) Turn the hand wheel until the needle reaches its
highest position.

Defect: The thread does not enter the eye of the needle.

Possible causes
(i) The eye of the needle is clogged.
(ii) The thread is thick in comparison to the eye of
the needle.
Corrective action
(i) Clogging should be removed by using a fine wire.
(ii) Change the needle.
(iii) Select the thread according to the needle.
Note: While there are various defects of the sewing
machine, the causes of these may be overlapping that
is, the same cause can lead to multiple defects.

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 Notes
Practical Exercises
Activity 1
Prepare a chart of the sewing machine and sewing defects. Also
mention the causes and remedies for the same.
Material Required
1. Chart sheet
2. Pen
3. Pencil
4. Eraser
5. Ruler
6. Markers
Procedure
1. List out the common defects in sewing and sewing machine.
2. Write the possible causes and list out the corrective action
for the problems.
3. Prepare a chart.
4. Place the chart in the classroom/practical lab.

Activity 2
Visit a garment manufacturing unit/workshop and attend a
demonstration of the defects of the sewing machine and sewing,
possible causes and its corrective action.

Material Required
1. Notebook
2. Pen
3. Camera (if available/mobile phones with camera)
4. Vehicle (bus) for field visit

Procedure
1. Visit a local garment manufacturing unit/workshop for the
demonstration with the teacher.
2. Attend a demonstration on the defects of a sewing machine
and sewing, causes and corrective action by a technical
expert.
3. Prepare a report of the visit.

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 Check Your Progress Notes

A. Match the columns

1. Remove bobbin and bobbin

(a) Poor thread quality
case and clean
(b) Tensions improperly set 2. Replace needle
(c) Dirt, lint, or thread in 3. Replace poor thread
bobbin case
(d) Blunt or bent needles 4. Adjust tension

B. Arrange the jumbled words

(a) pdese (e) fyaset (i) apteroe (l) niedwr
(b) polso (f) nutlb (j) ebuasilt (m) iltn
(c) thustle (g) psipdke (k) cpkrues (n) rsehe
(d) stfo (h) kgbiacn

C. Short answer question

1. Write short notes on the following machine defects:

(a) Excessive noise while stitching
(b) Needle break
(c) Fabric puckering

D. Long answer question

1. What are the common defects that occur while stitching?

Write the causes and corrective action for the same.

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 5 Hazards in
Industry and Safety
Measures

Introduction
There are different type of machinery that a Sewing
Machine Operator uses in the garment industry. Thus,
it is very important to have an understanding about
the safety and health measures while operating them.
Although it is essential that the management take
important steps to protect and safeguard the operators
from potential hazardous situations, but the best way
for any Sewing Machine Operator to be safe and healthy
is to be aware of the various occupational hazards
associated with sewing machine operation, and work-
related illnesses and injuries. Many of the injuries are
caused mainly by the Operator’s error, carelessness
and inattentiveness.
The Operators must be properly guided for the use
of all the tools and equipment, machines, their safety
measures, and precautions to be taken at the time of
working. It should be compulsory for the Operator to
follow the basic instruction to use machines, tools and
equipment. Suitable furniture, proper ventilation and
lighting and efficient safety measures for emergency
situations are necessary for the safety and health of
the Operators. First-aid kits, safety symbols/signs, fire
extinguishers, and alarms are the most important safety
measures in the manufacturing units.

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 Session 1: Risk and Hazards in Industry Notes
Risk is a random incident that may possibly occur, and
if it occurs, it would have a negative impact on achieving
organisational goals.
A hazard is an agent having the potential to cause
harm or hurt to the target. We can call the possible
source of danger as hazard. The terms ‘risk’ and ‘hazard’
are mostly used interchangeably. However, in terms of
risk assessment, they are two very different terms. A
hazard is any agent which can cause harm/damage/
injury to human beings and their environment. Risk is
defined as the probability that exposes one to a hazard
which leads to a negative effect.
All industries have different type of tools, equipment
and machinery. There is always a risk of hazard
while operating machines. They may be physical,
biological, chemical, mechanical, etc. It is crucial for all
operators to be aware of the risk of hazards associated
with the industry they work in. While handling tools
and machines, the Operators should follow safety
instructions. Specialised training must be given to
the Operators to prevent injuries from these hazards.
Operators should take precautions to guard against
work related hazards and accidents.
Most manufacturing units have similar hazards in
their processes and work areas. Hence, it is mandatory
to have adequate equipment and facilities in the unit
to avoid these hazards. Adequate planning, training
and awareness workshops are necessary to train the
Operators, in which they must be made aware of various
hazards associated with their units, and the precautions
to be taken.
All the manufacturing units, whether located
in a commercial or residential area, must comply
and should have the necessary equipment, like fire
extinguishers, hydrants, emergency exits, emergency
lights, hooters, first aids, etc. The Operators may suffer
many occupational accidents due to the processes and
equipment or machines used in the garment industry.
It is the prime responsibility of an organisation to
provide occupational health and safety conditions to
the Operators.

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 Notes Type of hazards
In a garment manufacturing unit, all the hazards
mentioned in this session may not be common, but
awareness about various hazards is essential to be
able to deal with them in case they occur. Different
work environments can pose different type of hazards
and risks to the health of the Operators. Therefore,
it is important to identify and address the different
type of hazards with appropriate safety measures, not
only by the employers but also for each individual to
be responsible for the safety and welfare of the self,
all persons working in the organisation as well as the
environment.
There is always a threat to the health and safety
of people at the workplace. These may be chemical
hazards, physical hazards, biological hazards, etc. Here
we have discussed some hazards keeping in mind the
exposure of students of this course towards machines
and industry.

Physical hazards
They often affect many Operators in the workplace, for
example occupational hearing loss, postural defects,
falls, accidents, etc. Hearing loss is one of the most
common problems in a manufacturing unit with heavy
noise-making machines like some industrial sewing
machines or cutters; postural defects like cervical
and bone shape change can occur if a person needs
to sit or stand in a particular wrong position for long
time. Accidents and falls are also a common cause of
occupational injuries and deaths in industries, like
transportation, construction, extraction, healthcare,
building, etc.
Some of the problems associated with the physical
environment at the workplace include:
1. respiratory problems, allergies, skin problem, etc.,
may be caused due to excessive dust. Adequate
ventilation, exhaust fans, etc., are helpful to make
the environment clean and dust-free.
2. a low light environment for working, and shortage
of eye protective glasses, can cause eye problems.

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 3. prolonged sitting, and continuous work involving
the eye, creates eye problems (strained eyes) and
backbone problems for the Operators. Repetitive
Strain Injury (RSI) is likely to occur at the workplace
due to long hours of sitting to complete the work.
Problems like backache, stiffening of neck, cervical
and wrist joint problems can also occur during
stitching work.
These problems can be solved with the following tips.

1. Always work with the right body posture.

2. Keep the stand/machines at a height till bust level
and straight wrist position to avoid bending your
neck and back for a long time.
3. Use wrist rests to avoid strain in the hand and
wrist joint.
4. Take short breaks from long sittings, maybe after
an hour or two, to relax the strain in the back.

Fire hazards
They are common in those industries
that use a lot of flammable material, like
cotton, chemicals, etc. Fire hazards occur
mainly due to the following reasons.
1. Improper working of fire and smoke
alarm bells in industries
2. Absence of fire and smoke alarm
systems in many industries
3. Improper maintenance of fire exits
or emergency staircase
4. Lack of proper exit route or
emergency staircase to reach the
place of safety

Every industry should keep fire

extinguishers as a safety measure.
Fig.5.1: Fire extinguishers
Biological hazards
These involve hazards due to bacteria,
viruses and toxins. It can be due to non-

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 Notes airy and dark rooms, suffocation (bad ventilation), and
unhygienic conditions of washrooms. These also include
animal bites and stings, problems from toxic plants,
and transmitted diseases through animals.

Chemical hazards
Some chemicals can cause a hazard in the work area.
There are many categories of hazardous chemicals.
Certain chemicals are harmful when mixed with other
chemicals. Chemical hazards are very common in
apparel and textile industry while at the time of dyeing
and printing.
A worker in the garment industry should practise
caution while handling chemicals. The worker must be
made aware of the specific instructions to be followed
while handling a particular chemical.

Psychosocial hazards
This means that the status of mental health and
emotional well-being of the Operators in an organisation
may not be normal. These could be due to a feeling of
job insecurity, long working hours, lack of enthusiasm
towards work, frustration about not being allowed to
deliver quality product due to pressure of quantitative
production, harassment at workplace and poor work-
life balance. This aspect should be dealt with care, as
these are sensitive issues. Behavioural therapy, like
continuous counselling, meditation, yoga, participation
in recreation centres, music therapy or occupational
care are effective in reducing sick leave days and poor
work efficiency at the workplace.

Electrical hazards
These are common in the textile industry as fabrics,
machines and other fire-prone equipment are being
dealt with here. It is quite dangerous when an Operator
creates an electrical contact with keyed up equipment
or a conductor. Electrical accidents mostly occur when
the individuals are working around electrical apparatus
which is live but they think it is dead. Wrong use of
equipment and use of faulty electrical equipment
also causes accidents. Working on, or near electric

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 equipment, without adequate training or appropriate Notes
equipment, may be one of the reasons.
Shocks from faulty equipment can lead to brutal and
permanent injuries. Due to serious injuries, the chances
to fall off from ladders or other work platforms are
high. Apart from injuries or accidents, such mistakes
or avoidance lead to damage of the plant, machines,
equipment and property.
To reiterate, it is the role of the management to
provide basic facilities like day care, canteen, rest
room, recreational room, dispensary for first aid, etc.,
so that the Operators focus on their routine work in
the units, uninterrupted. Critical emergency essentials,
such as alarms, evacuation plans, emergency lights
and gathering areas, must be invested in. There is a lot
of machinery used in the garment industry. However,
before any work starts on a machinery, the Operator
should be trained in its proper operations and all safety
precautions should be taken. Proper training and
demonstration of work technique or process is valuable
for each Operator.
Table 5.1: Some Common Hazards and Potential Accidents
and their Preventive Measures

Common hazards Preventive measures

Finger and hand injury The machine must be switched
during cleaning and off, with the plug removed, and
repair work must be stationary before any
cleaning or repair work is started.
Eye injury from broken Proper adjustment of the eye
parts accidentally guard should be checked before
entering the eye work starts. Safety glasses
should be used.
Finger injury from the Setting of the finger guard should
needle be checked before work starts
Injury from tools and Shears and needles should be
equipment of drafting put at the right place after use.
cutting and measuring
tools
Electrical injury Never use a machine with
damaged covers, cables,
switches, etc. Report the damage
at once. Never try to repair it
yourself.

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 Notes Internal injury from Never store items temporarily in
accidentally swallowed the mouth. Place needles, etc., in
items suitable containers.
Tripping and falling in the The work area must be clean
surrounding work area and tidy.
Fire hazards: loss of life Place MCB (Motor Circuit
and damage to machinery Breaker), ACB (Air Circuit
due to electric short circuit Breaker), restrict unauthorised
or welding operation person for welding

Practical Exercises
Activity 1
Prepare a chart of the hazards in the garment manufacturing
industry.
Material Required
1. Pen
2. Glue
3. Chart sheet
4. Pictures of hazards related to the garment manufacturing
industry
Procedure
1. Search pictures of various type of hazards in the industry
through the Internet and books.
2. Collect pictures of various type of hazards in the industry.
3. Cut the pictures very neatly with scissors.
4. Paste them on a chart sheet.
5. Label them.
6. Place the chart in classroom/practical lab.

Activity 2
Students will watch a short video on the hazards that occur in
the garment manufacturing industry and the safety measures
that should be taken. Prepare a report of it.
Material Required
1. CD/DVD of short video
2. Internet access for online video
3. CD/DVD player or laptop
4. Projector
5. Screen
6. Seating arrangement for students

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 Practical Exercises

Procedure Notes
1. The teacher should arrange to make the students watch a
short video on the hazards in industry and safety measures.
2. The teacher should organise a group discussion regarding
the same.
3. Following the instructions of the teacher, prepare a report
on the hazards in the industry and the safety measures.

Check Your Progress

A. Fill in the blanks
1. Excessive dust can cause respiratory problem,
_____________, skin problem, etc.
2. RSI stands for ____________ ____________ ____________.
3. Biohazards involve contagious bacteria, _____________
and _____________.

B. Find the following words from the maze below

HAZARD, MACHINE, INJURY, ELECTRICAL, ACCIDENT,
ALLERGY, DAMAGE, RISK, HURT

H I N J U R Y A M E
A A S T R A I N A L
C A Z K H U R T C E
C Z D A M A G E H C
I B R L R I S K I T
D M E L G D S C N R
E S H E A R S R E I
N P O R J P K M S C
T Q P G I S S M S A
S R N Y N U V N S L
C. Questions
1. Define the risks and hazards in the garment
manufacturing industry.
2. List out the type of hazards in the garment manufacturing
industry.
3. How can the management reduce the risks and hazards
in the garment manufacturing industry?
4. Write at least two physical hazards that might be faced
by the Operator and give causes and precautions to
avoid them.

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 Notes Session 2: Health and Safety Measures for
Sewing Machine Operator
It is always very important for an Operator to be aware of
the hazards associated with sewing machine operations
as many of the injuries are caused by error, carelessness
or inattentiveness on the part of the Operator. The
Sewing Machine Operator should take precautions to
guard against work-related illnesses and injuries. The
Operator must be trained to handle and operate the
sewing machine properly and safely. One should follow
all safety precautions.
Sewing Machine Operators should follow these safety
precautions while working.
1. While sewing always concentrate on the machine
and the task at hand.
2. Always use shields and guards while working with
the open moving parts of machine.
3. Use safety glasses and earplugs while working on
high-speed sewing machinery.
4. Always wear proper footwear to avoid leg and feet
injury. The footwear worn should not slip off from
the feet while operating the machine.
5. Turn off the sewing machine before oiling it or
while changing parts.
6. In the event of a cut wound, or any other injury,
immediately report to the group leader. Wounds
should be cleaned and covered with a bandage.
7. All tools and machinery required for production
should incorporate ergonomic design principles
and should not require an excessive force
to operate.
8. The tools should be easy and comfortable in
holding and using.
9. Work area should be properly designed like enough
space for performing tasks, appropriate working
height and proper sitting arrangement.
10. Improper furniture and poor ergonomic
conditions lead to serious health problems such
as musculoskeletal disorders for example carpal
tunnel syndrome, lower back pain, forearm
tendinitis, neck pain, etc.

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 Notes

Fig. 5.2: Operators working on a sewing machine

11. Unpadded stools that may also lack a backrest lead

to the Operators having to sit in an uncomfortable
position without adequate support for the entire
working shift.
12. If there is constant use of pressing irons in sewing
units, the humidity level becomes very high, which
may create discomfort for the Operators.
13. Be provided with short breaks to prevent
muscular pains.
14. Take proper physical rest and mental relaxation in
order to prevent injuries.
15. Adopt an appropriate sitting posture while working.
Avoid working in uncomfortable and awkward
postures.
16. Do not work with hands above the shoulder height
on a regular basis. Arms must be placed at a lower
level and near to the body. Frequent bending and
twisting of wrists, back and neck should also
be avoided.
17. Operators should take proper rest. Give your
muscles rest during the tea/snacks break, lunches
and weekends by doing something different from
what is routine.

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 Notes

Fig. 5.3: Sitting position while working on a sewing machine

Good lighting
Proper lighting at the workplace is very essential for
productivity. Conversely, poor lighting can cause eye
strain, fatigue and headache, which results in poor
productivity.

Practices for good lighting

1. There should be an arrangement for proper natural
lighting in the sewing department/unit. This may
help decrease the electricity bill.
2. Work stations that need more light should be
moved closer to the windows.
3. Use a combination of natural and artificial lighting
arrangement, and try to adjust the lighting at the
work area such as, drafting and cutting.
4. The interior colour of the walls affects the
illumination needed. Make sure that the ceilings
should be as close to white as possible. Use pale
colours on walls.

Benefits
1. Good quality of work with less faults and high
production

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 2. Decreased tiredness and work-related illnesses, Notes
like itching and strain in the eyes
3. Better health of operators will decrease the number
of sick leaves, and increase productivity

Other things to consider

Many a times, chemicals are used for different
processing in textile and garment industries. Dyes,
solvents and other chemicals are used to create different
fabric finishes. Hence, proper ventilation, respiratory
protection, and other personal protective equipment
should be readily available to protect Operators during
chemical processing.
As a lot of work involves close viewing of the fabric,
material or garment, eye protection is critical. Operators
in the garment industry can avoid eye injuries by using
proper shields on high-speed sewing machinery or
appropriate safety glasses.
Before using any tool or machine, the Operator
should be trained in safe working practices. Some of
the measures are given below.
Safety measures to prevent accidents with scissors
Hand scissors can cause accidents when not used
properly. Scissors injuries usually happen when the
scissors slips during cutting or trimming. In most cases,
the blade cuts the Operator’s hand and/or fingers.
Injuries can also occur to other parts of the body. The
following safety measures should be taken.
1. Use suitable storage system, such as racks, boxes,
etc., near the working area at a comfortable height
to place scissors, blades, etc., after use.
2. Ensure placing lighting fixtures in a way that
the light should fall on the working surface from
the left side or from the front. This promotes
better visibility.
3. Prohibit carrying scissors in pockets, or in the hand
when going from one place of work to another.
4. Do not hold scissors with sharp sides up. Do not
use it when the middle screw is loose.
5. Fix disposal points for used blades.

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 Notes 6. Use protective footwear with adequate resistance to
slipping and penetration from a dropped scissors
or other sharp objects.
7. Avoid leaving scissors around the work area. This
can injure both the Operator as well as others
walking around.
8. Provide even floor surfaces with slip resistance so
the operators do not slip.
9. Free the work surface and floor off debris
(pronounced as day-bree) and other waste to avoid
tripping and falling.
Safety measures to prevent accidents with needles
1. Keep needles and pins at a fixed place, such as in
a special box, and all small tools in separate bags
or boxes. Do not leave them at the workplace.
2. Do not hold the needle, pins, etc., in your mouth
or tuck them in the clothes. Do not leave it in
the fabric too. An Operator can sew through
one’s finger.
Safety measures while using spray guns
Spray guns are used to get rid off any stains on the fabric
that may have been transferred while manufacturing.
These guns use a cleaning fluid (many times ethylene)
which may cause headache, dizziness and fatigue if
inhaled, or spirit which can cause redness and excessive
dryness of the skin, if exposed.
Train the Operators in the use of the gun. Spray the
cleaning fluid onto a rag and then use the rag to clean,
rather than spraying on the garment directly.
Safety measures while ironing
1. Practise caution while using a hot iron as it can
cause a major injury.
2. Check for any faults with the cord before using it.
3. Turn on and hold the plug with dry hands.
4. Place the iron only on a heat-resistant stand.
5. Ensure that the cord does not touch the iron
soleplate while ironing.
6. Select an ironing mode (heating temperature)
suitable for the fabric to be ironed.
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 Safety and navigation symbols
A signage or symbol is a picture, written word or mark
that represents a message. It is important to know the
different type of symbols used in a workplace so that they
can be followed. There are two type of symbols—safety
symbols and navigation symbols. Safety symbols are
those used for warning and the protection to be taken.
Navigation symbols are used to show the direction or
placement of a certain object or department. Some of
the commonly used symbols are shown in Fig. 5.4.

Symbol for explosives Sign to prohibit flames Sign indicates Hazard symbol
or an explosion hazard and smoking flammable gas for nonflammable gas

Sign for protective Sign for eye protection Symbol for gloves Sign for protective Sign for protective
eyewear required required footwear clothing

Sign for escape route

Sign for ear protection Sign for Symbol for first-aid
required fire extinguisher

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 Hazard symbol Hazard symbol for a Symbol for fire exit Hazard symbol for a harmful
for toxic corrosive substance or irritant substance

Hazard symbol for Hazard symbol for Warning sign Symbol for no sitting Sign for fire alarm
flammable oxidising

Fig. 5.4: Safety and navigation symbols

Practical Exercise
Activity 1
Search from the Internet and books, and list out the safety and
navigation symbols used by a Sewing Machine Operator in the
garment industry. Prepare a chart of the same.
Material Required
1. Chart sheet
2. Pictures of safety and navigation symbols
3. Glue
4. Scissors
Procedure
1. Search and collect pictures of safety and navigation
symbols from the Internet and books.
2. Cut the pictures very neatly with scissors.
3. Paste them on a chart sheet.
4. Label them.
5. Display the chart in the classroom/practical lab.

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 Check Your Progress Notes

A. Fill in the blanks

1. Operators should wear proper ____________ to avoid leg
and feet injury.
2. Working with improper and insufficient light results in
eye strain, _________ and _______.
3. Operators should take proper physical rest and ________
_______ in order to prevent injuries.
4. Always use ______________ and ____________while
working with open moving parts of machine.
5. Short breaks are necessary to prevent ________________
pain.
6. There are basically two type of symbols — _______________
and _______________.

B. Short answer questions

1. Write a short note on good lighting while working in a
garment manufacturing industry.
2. Write short notes on any five safety practices while
working on sewing machines.

C. Long answer questions

1. Why is it important to take health and safety measures
for a Sewing Machine Operator in the industry?
2. Write about the importance/benefits of good lighting for
the Sewing Machine Operator.

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 Answer Key

Unit 1: Introduction to Sewing Machine Session 2: Cutting Tools and Usage

Session 1: Sewing Machine and its Types A. Fill in the blanks
A. Fill in the blanks 1. Notches
1. Domestic 2. Seam ripper
2. Computerised 3. Pinking
3. Electronic 4. Thread cutter
5. Thick felt
Session 2: Terminology Related to Sewing 6. Scissors
and Garments
A. Fill in the blanks Session 3: Needles and Threads
A. Match the columns
1. (b) 45 degrees
2. (c) Length-wise (a) 4. safety of the finger
3. (c) Hem (b) 3. passing the thread through the fabric
4. (a) Hem allowance (c) 2. threading elastic through loop
5. (b) Frill (d) 1. punching holes in material
6. (c) Muslin B. Fill in the blanks
B. Jumbled words 1. 9, 18
(a) Ease (e) Needle (h) Weft 2. Bodkin
(b) Bias (f) Thread (i) Stitch 3. Thimble
(c) Grain (g) Drafting (j) Pattern
(d) Warp Session 4: Preparation and Operation of
Sewing Machine
Session 3: Various Parts of a Sewing A. Fill in the blanks
Machine and its Attachments
1. Foot control
A. Fill in the blanks
2. Clockwise
1. (d) Needle bar 3. Reversed
2. (c) Feed dog
3. (b) Overcasting Unit 3: Basics of Garment Construction
4. (a) Engage stitch mechanism Session 1: Various Types of Stitch
A. Fill in the blanks
Unit 2: Sewing Tools and Sewing Machine
Operations 1. (b) Permanent
Session 1: Measuring and Marking Tools 2. (d) Even basting
and their Usage 3. (a) Hem
A. Fill in the blanks Session 2: Different Type of Seams

1. Coloured powder A. Fill in the blanks

2. Water soluble, air erasable 1. (a) Decorative
3. 24 inches 2. (b) Lapped
4. French 3. (b) Decorative
5. Defect 4. (b) French
6. Tracing wheel

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 Session 3: Edge Finishes B. Maze
A. Fill in the blanks
H I N J U R Y A M E
1. (a) Pinked finish
2. (b) Bound edge seam finish A A S T R A I N A L
3. (c) Herringbone C A Z K H U R T C E
4. (b) Double stitch
C Z D A M A G E H C
5. (c) Fraying
I B R L R I S K I T
Unit 4: Care and Maintenance of Sewing
Machine D M E L G D S C N R
Session 1: Cleaning, Oiling and Handling of E S H E A R S R E I
Sewing Machine
N P O R J P K M S C
A. Match the columns
T Q P G I S S M S A
(a) 3. holds pins and needles
S R N Y N U V N S L
(b) 4. remove fine lines and single threads
(c) 2. protect the fabric from direct
contact with hot iron Session 2: Health and Safety Measures for
(d) 1. cutting out of patterns and fabrics Sewing Machine Operator
B. Fill in the blanks A. Fill in the blanks
1. Accuracy 1. Footwear
2. Sewing gauge 2. Fatigue, headache
3. Mental relaxation
Session 2: Machine and Sewing Defects and
4. Shields, guards
its Solutions
5. Muscular
A. Match the columns 6. Safety, navigation
(a) 3. replace poor thread
(b) 4. adjust tension
(c) 1. remove bobbin and bobbin case
and clean
(d) 2. replace needle
B. Arrange the jumbled words
(a) Speed (f) Blunt (k) Puckers
(b) Spool (g) Skipped (l) Winder
(c) Shuttle (h) Backing (m) Lint
(d) Soft (i) Operate (n) Sheer
(e) Safety (j) Suitable

Unit 5: Hazards in Industry and Safety

Measures
Session 1: Risk and Hazards in Industry
A. Fill in the blanks
1. Allergy
2. Repetitive strain injury
3. Viruses, toxins

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 Glossary
Abrade: to rub hard or scrub, or wear away by friction or erosion
Abrasion: the process of rubbing or grinding away the surface of a
fabric by friction
Anticlockwise: in the opposite direction to the way in which the
hands of a clock move round
Bearing: it is a part of a machine that supports another part that
turns around.
Blunt: not having a sharp edge or point
Clockwise: in the direction of the typical forward movement of the
hands of a clock
Clog: a blockage due to a piling up of some material
Coarse: rough in texture
Conformation: it is the manner of formation/structure/form or as
of a physical entity
Dab: to press lightly in a repeated motion with a soft object, without
rubbing
Damp: make something slightly wet
Debris (here): the remains of sewing material
Deflecting: a changed direction, or the turning aside of the yarn
from a straight course after hitting
Descend: to pass from a higher to lower place or to move downwards
Durability: continuing to be used without getting damaged
Ergonomic: relating to or designed for efficiency and comfort in the
working environment
Fasten: secure the end of a thread with stitches or a knot
Fray: the wearing out of the fabric at the edge due to friction or
constant rubbing
Indentation: a notch on the edge or surface of something (needle)
Intricate: very complicated or detailed, having a lot of small parts
that are arranged in a complicated or delicate way
Latch: a fastening that has a bar fitted into a slot and is lifted by a
lever or a string from either side
Lingerie: women’s undergarment or the clothing worn in bed, or
sleep wears
Lint: short, fine fibres which separate from the surface of the fabric
or yarn during processing. It may be the minute shreds or ravelings
of yarn or bits of threads.
Locknut: a nut so constructed that it locks itself when screwed
tight against another part

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 Lubricate: to apply a substance such as oil or grease to (an engine
or component) so as to minimise friction and allow smooth movement
Pliable material: the material flexible enough to bend freely or
repeatedly without breaking
Point: the part of the needle that makes the first contact with the
fabric and is responsible for how the needle pierces the fabric
Pressing: apply pressure to (something) to flatten, shape, or smooth
it, typically by ironing
Ravel: it is a thread from a woven or knitted fabric that has frayed.
It means to become disjoined thread by thread or fibre by fibre, or
fraying
Reservoir: a place for storing liquid
Resilience: the ability of a fabric to spring back to its original shape
after being twisted, crushed, wrinkled or distorted in any way
Rotary hook: the part which enters a loop or needle threads, and
carries it around the bobbin case to form the lock stitch
Scrap: a small piece of leftover fabric after the greater part has
been used
Serrated edge: an edge lined with small teeth
Shaft: a part of the needle between the eye and the point. It is a
suitable length for driving the eye and thread through the material
Sheen: a soft shine on a surface or a smooth and gentle brightness
of the surface. It is a quality of things that are shiny, usually with
reflected light
Slack: not taut or held tightly in position, or loose
Spill: the unintentional flowing of a liquid over the edge of its
container
Taper: reduce in thickness towards one end
Termination point: the action of coming to a close or end
Thumbscrew: a type of screw, the head of which is so constructed
that it may be turned easily with the thumb and a finger
Turning: it is the movement in a circular direction wholly or partly
round an axis or point. When moved something so that it is in a
different position. It is the act or course of one/something that turns
a place of a change in direction.
Wooden awl: a handy tool for piercing holes for rivets, snaps,
eyelets, etc.

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 List of Credits
Figures
Chaurasia, Pragati [3.12(a–i), 5.4]
Khan, Zainab [2.5, 2.10, 2.11, 2.13, 2.15, 2.17, 2.19, 2.20, 2.25,
2.26, 2.32, 2.36, 3.1, 3.2, 3.4, 3.5, 3.15, 3.16(a,b), 3.17(a,b), 3.23,
3.24, 4.1(b), 5.3]
Naidu, A. Renu [2.16, 2.18, 2.23, 2.27(a,b,c), 2.28, 2.29(a,b), 2.30,
2.31, 2.35, 2.37, 2.38, 2.39, 2.40, 2.41, 2.42, 2.43, 2.44, 2.45, 3.3,
3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 3.10, 3.11, 3.13(a,b,c,d), 3.14(a,b,c), 3.18, 3.19,
3.20, 3.21, 3.22, 3.25, 3.26]

Photographs
Uppal, Shveta [5.1(a,b)]
Soni, Vinod K. [1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 1.10, 1.11,
1.12, 1.13, 1.14(a,b,c,d,e), 1.15, 1.16, 1.17, 1.18, 1.19, 1.20, 1.21,
1.22, 1.23, 1.24, 1.25, 1.26, 1.27, 1.28, 1.29, 1.30, 1.31, 2.1, 2.2,
2.3, 2.4, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 2.12, 2.14, 2.21, 2.22, 2.24, 2.33, 2.34,
4.1(a), 5.2]

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