B.

Sc in Textile Engineering
Course Name: Textile Quality Management (TQM)
(Course Code: TEX 3207)
 Outline
⚫ What is Quality?
⚫ Dimension of Quality.
⚫ History of Quality Methodology
⚫ Different Perspectives on Quality
⚫ What is Quality Management?
⚫ Deming‟s Principles
⚫ Costs related to quality
⚫ Benefits/Drawbacks

.
2
 What is Quality?
 Conformance to specifications (According to British
Defense Industries Quality Assurance Panel)

 Conformance to requirements (Philip Crosby)

 Meeting the (stated) requirements of the customer- now

and in the future (Mike Robinson)

⚫ “The degree to which a system, component, or process

meets
(1) specified requirements, and
(2) customer or users’ needs or expectations”

3
Scientists and associations of
Quality definitions
Quality

Guran definitions Quality is fitness for use, the basic criterion for judging the
(Juran & Cryna,1993) quality product if a product is suitable for use or is not,
regardless of the status and condition of the product.

Crosby definitions Quality is conformity to requirements; that means when

(Ross, 2000) more product specifications conform to the customer
requirement; this product has a good quality.

Edward Deming definition Quality is a trend to satisfy consumer needs at present and
(Evans & Dean, 2003) in the future.
American Society for Quality Quality is a group of goods and services able to meet the
Control definitions specific
(Goetsch & Davis, 2010) needs.

International Organization for Quality is meeting all features in the product to customer
Standardization; ISO requirements.
definitions
(Alwan, 2005)

4
Quality in different areas of society
Area Examples
Airlines On-time, comfortable, low-cost service
Correct diagnosis, minimum wait time, lower cost,
Health Care
security
Food Services Good product, fast delivery, good environment
Postal Services fast delivery, correct delivery, cost containment
Communications Clearer, faster, cheaper service
Consumer Products Properly made, defect-free, cost effective
Insurance Payoff on time, reasonable cost
Automotive Defect-free

5
History of Quality Methodology

⚫ Quality in service industries, government,

health care, and education

⚫ Current and future challenge: keep progress

in quality management alive.
⚫ To sum up: A gradual transition

Statistical Quality
Quality Control Quality
Assurance Management

10
Evolution of Quality Management.

11
 Dimensions of Quality
-according to Garvin (1987)

1. Performance

2. Features 5. Durability

3. Reliability 6. Serviceability

4. Conformance 7. Aesthetics

8. Perceived Quality
12
1. Performance:
 Will the product/service do the intended job?

2. Reliability:
 How often does the product/service fail?

3. Durability:
 How long does the product/service last?

4. Serviceability:
 How easy to repair the product / to solve the problems
in service?
13
5. Aesthetics:
 What does the product/service look/smell/sound/feel like?

6. Features:
 What does the product do/ service give?

7. Perceived Quality:
 What is the reputation of the company or its products/services?

8. Conformance to Standards:
 Is the product/service made exactly as the designer/standard
intended?
14
Differing Functional Perspectives on Quality

⚫ An Engineering Perspective
⚫ An Operations Perspective
⚫ A Strategic Management Perspective
⚫ A Marketing Perspective
⚫ A Financial Perspective
⚫ The Human Resources Perspective

. 16
 Engineering Perspective on Quality

Design Life Cycle

Idea
Generatio
n
Preliminary
Prototype Iterations
Design
Prototype
Developme t
n Product
Final
Design &
Evaluatio
Implementation

17
 The Conversion Systems Model of Operation Management

Planning Organizing

Conversion
Inputs Outputs Custome
Process
r

Process
Control
Controlling Customer
Feedback
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A Generic Strategic Planning Process
Extern FirmStrategi
Mission Interna
andc Goals

Business
Corporate Level
Level
Strategy
Strategy
Operation
al

Organizational Org. Reward

Conflict Politics
Design Strategic Alignment Systems
and Change
Between
Structure and Goals
. 19
 A Marketing System

Organization
Offering Payment

Offering Intermediary Payment

Offering Payment

Customer

. 20
 The Deming Value Chain
Improve
Cost decrease Productivity
Quality
Improves
&Capture
the Stay in Provide Jobs
and More Jobs21
Busines
.

Marke
s
 Financial Perspective on Quality
Basic Economic Quality Level
Total Quality Costs = Sum of Losses and
Cost
Costs

Minimum
Cost
Lossesdue to
poor uquality co sts of
Improving
q uality

Optimum Quality Level Quality

. 22
Human Resource Perspective on Qualit

HRM versus TQHRM:

Traditional HRM TQHRM
Process Unilateral role Consulting role
Characteristics Centralization Decentralization
Pull Release
Administrative Developmental
Content
Characteristics Nomothetic Pluralistic Holistic
Compartmentalized System-oriented
Worker-oriented
Performance measures Satisfaction measures
Job-based Person-based
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 Quality Management

Quality Management System:

 The act of overseeing all activities and tasks needed to
maintain a desired level of excellence.
 This includes creating and implementing quality planning
and assurance, as well as quality control and quality
improvement.

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 Quality Management

Quality Planning Quality Assurance Quality Control

Criteria driven Prevention driven Inspection driven

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 Quality Management Components

It identifies the standards and determines how to satisfy those

standards.
It lays out the roles and responsibilities, resources,
procedures, and processes to be utilized for quality control and
quality assurance.

◦ It is the review to ensure aligning with the quality

standards.
◦ Planned and systematic quality activities.
◦ Provide the confidence that the standards will be met.

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Quality Management Components
⚫ Quality Control- Inspection driven
◦ It addresses the assessment conducted during Quality
Assurance for corrective actions.
◦ Measure specific results to determine that they match the
standards.
◦ Use of Statistical Process Control (SPC) for monitoring a
process to identify special causes of variation and signal
the need to take corrective action when appropriate.

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Quality Management Vs Quality Audit

⚫ By quality management, we mean all the activities

that are intended to bring about the desired level of
quality.

⚫ By quality audit we mean the procedural controls

that ensure participants are adequately following
the required procedures.

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Responsibilities/duties of quality control officer

⚫ Ensure a high level of internal and external customer

service.
⚫ Investigate (and correct) customer issues and complaints
relating to quality.
⚫ Supervise workers engaged in inspection and testing
activities to ensure high productivity and high technical
integrity.
⚫ Develop and analyse statistical data and product
specifications to determine standards and to establish
quality and reliability expectancy of finished products.

.
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 Responsibilities/duties; cotd…
� Coordinate objectives with production procedures in
cooperation with other plant managers to maximize product
reliability and minimize costs.
� Create, document and implement inspection criteria and
procedures.
� Interpret quality control philosophy to key personnel within
Company.
� Provide, and oversee, inspection activity for product
throughout production cycle.

.
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 Deming’s system of thought/
profound knowledge
⚫ The System of Profound Knowledge (SoPK) is the
culmination of Dr. W. Edwards Deming‟s lifelong
work.
⚫ It is an effective theory of management that provides a
framework of thought and action for any leader wishing
to transform and create a thriving organization, with the
aim for everybody to win.
⚫ By management appropriately applying the principles and
practices of SoPK, a business can simultaneously reduce
costs through reducing waste, rework, staff attrition and
litigation, while increasing quality, customer loyalty, worker
satisfaction and, ultimately, profitability.
. 32
 Four components of Deming’s
system of thought.
⚫ Deming advocated that all managers need to have what he
called a System of Profound Knowledge, consisting of four
parts:
1. Appreciation of a system: understanding the overall
processes involving suppliers, producers, and
customers (or recipients) of goods and services.
2. Knowledge of variation: the range and causes of
variation in quality, and use of statistical sampling in
measurements;
3. Theory of knowledge: the concepts explaining
knowledge and the limits of what can be known.
4. Knowledge of psychology: concepts of human nature.

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 Deming‟s 14 Principles.
1. “CreateConstancyof Purpose”
 Define the problems of today and the future

 Allocate resources for long-term planning
 Allocate resources for research and education
Constantly improve design of product and service
2. “Adopt A New Philosophy”
 Quality costs less not more
 The call for major change
“ Stop looking at your competition and look at your customer instead
3. Cease Dependence On Inspection for Quality”
 Quality does not come from inspection

 Mass inspection is unreliable, costly, and ineffective
 Inspectors fail to agree with each other
Inspection should be used to collect data for process control

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 Deming‟s 14 Principles.
4. “End Proactive Awarding Of BusinessBased On PriceAlone”
 Price alone has no meaning

 Change focus from lowest inital cost to lowest cost

Work toward a single source and long term relationship
Establish a mutual confidence and aid between purchaser and vendor
5. “ImproveEvery ProcessConstantly/ Forever”
 Quality starts with the intend of management

 Teamwork in design is fundamental
 Forever continue to reduce waste and continue to improve
Putting out fires is not improvement of the process
6. “InstituteTraining”
 Management must provide the setting where workers can be succesful

 Management must remove the inhibitors to good work
 Management needs an appreciation of variation
This is management‟s new role

36
Deming‟s 14 Principles.
7. “Adopt And Institute Leadership”
 Remove barriers to pride of workmanship

 Know the work they supervise
Know the difference between special and common cause of variation
8. “Drive Out Fear”
 The common denominator of fear:

 Fear of knowledge
 Performance appraisals
Management by fear or numbers
9. “Break Barriers Between Staff Areas”
 Know your internal suppliers and customers

Promote team work
10. “Eliminate Slogans, Exhortations And Targets”
They
 generate frustration and resentment
Use posters that explain what management is doing to improve the work
environment

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Deming‟s 14 Principles.
11. “ EliminateNumericalQuotas”
 Theyimpede quality


Theyreduce production
The person‟s job becomes meeting a quota
12. “ RemoveBarriersThat Rob Pride Of Workmanship”
 Performance appraisal systems


Production rates
 Financial management systems
Allow people to take pride in their workmanship
13. “ InstituteProgramsFor EducationAnd Self Improvemen”t
 Commitment to lifelong employment


Work with higher education needs
Develop team building skills
14. “ Put EverybodyIn The CompanyTo Work For
ThisTransformation”
 Struggle over the 14 points


Take pride in new philosophy
Include the critical mass of people in the change
. 38
 Deming’s Cycle

A four-step problem-solving iterative technique used to

improve business processes. The four steps are plan-do-check-
act. The PDCA Cycle can be used to effect both major
performance breakthroughs as well as small incremental
improvements in projects and processes. Also known as the
Deming wheel or Shewhart cycle.
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⚫ PLAN: Establish the objectives and processes necessary
to deliver results in accordance with the expected output
(the target or goals) by establishing output expectations.

⚫ DO: Implement the plan, execute the process, make the

product. Collect data for charting and analysis in the
following "CHECK" and "ACT" steps.

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⚫ CHECK: Study the actual results (measured and collected
in "DO" above) and compare against the expected results
(targets or goals from the "PLAN") to ascertain any
differences. Look for deviation in implementation from the
plan and also look for the appropriateness and
completeness of the plan to enable the execution.

⚫ ACT: Request corrective actions on significant differences

between actual and planned results. Analyze the differences
to determine their root causes. Determine where to apply
changes that will include improvement of the process or
product.

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 Quality Cost / Cost of Quality
⚫ The "cost of quality" isn't the price of creating a quality
product or service. It's the cost incurred for NOT creating a
quality product or service.
⚫ Every time work is redone, the cost of quality increases.
Obvious examples include:
◦ The reworking of a manufactured item.
◦ The retesting of an assembly.
◦ The rebuilding of a tool.
◦ The correction of a bank statement.
◦ The reworking of a service, such as the reprocessing of a loan operation or
the replacement of a food order in a restaurant.

⚫ In short, any cost that would not have been expended if

quality were perfect contributes to the cost of quality.
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 Classification of Quality Cost
⚫ According to Philip B. Crosby the cost of quality
has two main components:

1. The cost of poor quality (or the cost of non-

conformance).
2. The cost of good quality (or the cost of conformance)

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Classification of Quality Cost

45
 Internal Failure Costs
⚫ Internal failure costs are costs that are caused by products or
services not conforming to requirements or customer/user
needs and are found before delivery of products and
services to external customers.
⚫ Examples include the costs for:
◦ Rework
◦ Delays
◦ Re-designing
◦ Shortages
◦ Failure analysis
◦ Re-testing
◦ Lack of flexibility and adaptability

. 46
 External Failure Costs
⚫ External failure costs are costs that are caused by
deficiencies found after delivery of products and services to
external customers, which lead to customer dissatisfaction.
⚫ Examples include the costs for:
◦ Complaints
◦ Repairing goods and redoing services
◦ Warranties
◦ Customers‟ bad will
◦ Losses due to sales reductions
◦ Environmental costs

. 47
 Prevention Costs

⚫ Prevention costs are costs of all activities that are designed

to prevent poor quality from arising in products or services.
⚫ Examples include the costs for:
◦ Quality planning
◦ Supplier evaluation
◦ New product review
◦ Error proofing
◦ Capability evaluations
◦ Quality improvement team meetings
◦ Quality improvement projects
◦ Quality education and training

. 48
 Appraisal Costs
⚫ Appraisal costs are costs that occur because of the needs to
control products and services to ensure a high quality level
in all stages, conformance to quality standards and
performance requirements.
⚫ Examples include the costs for:
◦ Checking and testing purchased goods and services
◦ In-process and final inspection/test
◦ Product, process or service audits

The total quality costs are then the sum of these costs.

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 Quality Control In Garments Industry

 In the garment industry quality control is practiced right from the

initial stage of sourcing raw materials to the stage of final finished
garment.
 For textile and apparel industry, product quality is calculated in terms
of quality and standard of-
o Fibers,
o Yarns,
o Fabric construction,
o Color fastness,
o Surface designs and
o The final finished garment products. However quality expectations for
export are related to the type of customer segments and the retail
outlets.
Quality control for textile and apparel
 Quality for textile and apparel:

• Certain quality related problems, often seen in garment

manufacturing like sewing, color, sizing, or garment defects
should never be over looked.
• These defects are discussed below -
 Sewing defects
• Open seams,
• wrong stitching techniques,
• non- matching threads,
• missing stitches,
• improper creasing of the garment,
• improper thread tension etc. are some of the sewing
defects which can affect the garment quality
adversely.
 Color defects

Color defects that could occur are difference of the color of

final produced garment to the sample shown, accessories used
are of wrong color combination and mismatching of dye
amongst the pieces.

• Variation of color between the sample and the final garment,

• Wrong color combinations and mismatching dyes should
always be avoided.
 Size defects
• Wrong gradation of sizes,
• difference in measurement of various parts of a
garment like sleeves of XL size for body of L size
garment can deteriorate the garments beyond repair.
 Garment defects
Some of the remarkable defects are as below-

• Broken or defective buttons, snaps, stitches,

different shades within the same garment,
• Dropped stitches,
• Exposed notches,
• Fabric defects, holes,
• Faulty zippers,
• Loose or hanging sewing threads,
• Misaligned buttons and holes, missing buttons,
• Needle cuts,
Methods of quality control:

Basically two methods are used for garments quality control –

i) Testing
ii) Inspection.

Maximum garments manufacturers apply inspection method

due to high cost of testing equipment.
 Inspection
Inspection:
Inspection may be defined as the visual
examination in relation to some standards.

Objective:
The main objectives of inspection are –
i. Detection of defects.
ii. Correcting the defects or defective garments.
• To inspect garments an integral method named
„Inspection Loop‟ is used given below –

Inspection

Correction of Detection of
the defects defects

Determination Inform
of defects to
causes of appropriate
defects personnel
 Steps of inspection in garments industry:

1. Piece goods quality control

2. Cutting quality control
3. In process quality control (Sewing)
4. Washing section
5. Quality control of finishing sections
6. Testing (Lab test)
 Piece goods quality control
On receipt of fabrics in the ware house, at least 10% are
inspection as pear “4 Points” system/10 Points system/2.5 Point
system/6.0 Point system. The most commonly used 4 Points
system as per below -
Size of the defects Penalty point
3 Inches or less 1 point
Over 3, under 6 Inches 2 point
Over 6, under 9 Inches 3 point
Over 9 Inches 4 point
Holes & Openings(1inch or less) 2 point
Holes & Openings (more than 1inch) 4 point

A maximum of 4 points are changed in one linear yard.

 Cutting Quality
Control
In cutting section quality is insure in two stages.
a) Spreading quality control: Following points are checked
during spreading.
I. Table marking.
II. Ends
III. Tension
IV. Leaning
V. Narrow Goods
VI. Counts
VII. Ply height
VIII.Remnants
IX. Fabric flaws
X. Market placing
 Cutting Quality
b)After
Control
cutting quality control: After each cutting blocks and
bundles are checks on the following points.

I. Mis-cut
II. Ragged cutting
III. Pattern checks
IV. Matching Plies
V. Notches
In process quality control (Sewing)
During the swing “In process quality control” is done by the line
QC‟s through 7 pcs inspection system. For critical operations
100% process inspection are carried out. The following
parameters are also checked in sewing process –
a) Machine check.
b) Tension.
c) SPI checks
d) Needle check.
e) Cleanness.
d) Table inspection.
f) Inspection before wash.
 Washing section
a) Garments handling
b) Wash standard.
c) After wash thoroughly inspection.
 Quality control of finishing sections
• Following inspection/audit is done to attain AQL
(1.5/2.5/4.0etc).
a) Process inspection: Garments are checked process wise in the
finishing section to identify defects and pass only the passed
garments.
b) Two hourly audit: Every after two-hours audit is done on
finishing lot to attain AQL the requiredAQL.
c) Days final audit: At the end of the day accumulated lot of
finished garments are statistically audited to attain requiredAQL.
d) Lot final audit: On completion of packing of one complete lot
of garment, QA manager conduct statistical audit based on
required AQL garments. Garments are offered for final inspection
b2a/8yu/2db0i1u6t.yer /clients for shipment only when these are
 Quality control of finishing sections
through in this
 Quality control of finishing sections
The following parameters are also checked in finishing process –
a) After wash garments must be keep in the box / table covering.
b) Thread sucking.
c) Iron inspection.
d) Measurements inspection.
e) Poly inspection of top of garments.
f) Inspection before cartoning.
 Testing (Lab test)
a) Shrinkage test
b) Color fastness. test
c) Azo-free test.
 AQL (Acceptable Quality Level
)

A certain proportion of defectives will always

occur in any manufacturing process. If the
percentage does not exceed a certain limit, it will
be economical to allow the defective to go
through instead of screening the entire lot. This
limit is called the "Acceptable Quality Level" (
AQL )
 AQL (Acceptable Quality Level
)
• In practice, three types of defects are
distinguished. For most consumer goods, the
limits are:

– 0% for critical defects (totally unacceptable: a user

might get harmed, or regulations are not respected).
– 2.5% for major defects (these products would
usually not be considered acceptable by the end
user).
– 4.0% for minor defects (there is some departure
from specifications, but most users would not mind
 AQL (Acceptable Quality Level
it). )
 Statistical Process Control:
Definition
 SPC stands for statistical process control. Statistical process
control is a scientific visual method used to monitor,
control and improve processes by eliminating special
cause variation from manufacturing, service and financial
processes. SPC is a key continuous improvement tool.

 Is a collection of tools that can result in process stability

and variance reduction (process improvement) when used
together.

 Its also called statistical quality control (SQC).

 Application of SPC

The application of SPC involves three main

phases of activity:
1. Understanding the process and the specification
limits.
2. Eliminating assignable (special) sources of
variation, so that the process is stable.
3. Monitoring the ongoing production process,
assisted by the use of control charts, to detect
significant changes of mean or variation.
 Limitations
• SPC is applied to reduce or eliminate process waste.
This, in turn, eliminates the need for the process step
of post-manufacture inspection.
• The success of SPC relies not only on the skill with
which it is applied, but also on how suitable or
amenable the process is to SPC.
• In some cases, it may be difficult to judge when the
application of SPC is appropriate.
 Seven Management & Planning Tools

• In 1976, the Union of Japanese Scientists and Engineers

(JUSE) saw the need for tools to promote innovation,
communicate information and successfully plan major
projects.
• A team researched and developed the seven new quality
control tools, often called the seven management and
planning tools, or simply the seven management tools.
 What are the New Seven Q.C. Tools

 Affinity Diagrams

 Relations Diagrams

 Tree Diagrams

 Matrix Diagrams

 Arrow Diagrams
 Process Decision Program Charts
 Matrix Data Analysis
 Elementary/Basic SPC Tools
• Quality management is now extremely important for all
organizations, especially for the textile and apparel industry
as it struggles with competition from less developed
countries that offer much cheaper products.
• Tools for quality management can help companies in this
industry to reduce costs, realize zero defects and thus
achieve better results.
• Furthermore, the application of the quality tools help
companies to identify the causes of the problems and to
manage that problems.
 Elementary SPC Tools / Seven Quality Tools

• The Seven Tools

– Histograms,
– Pareto Charts,
– Cause and Effect Diagrams,
– Run Charts,
– Scatter Diagrams,
– Flow Charts,
– Control Charts
 Histograms
Histogram Defined
 A histogram is a bar graph that shows frequency data.
 Histograms provide the easiest way to evaluate the
distribution of data.
 It looks very much like bar chart.
 The data are represented as a series of rectangles.
 The width of a rectangle is the class interval and the
area represents the class frequency.

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 Histograms
Purpose:
To determine the spread or variation of
a set of data points in a graphical
form

How is it done?:
• Collect data, 50-100 data point
• Determine the range of the data
• Calculate the size of the class
interval Stable process, exhibiting bellshape
• Divide data points into classes
Determine the class boundary
• Count of data points in each class
• Draw the histogram
 Scatter Diagrams

• Scatter Diagrams Defined

– Scatter Diagrams are used to study and identify the
possible relationship between the changes observed
in two different sets of variables.
 Scatter Diagrams

How is it done?:
• Decide which paired factors you want to examine. Both factors
must be measurable on some incremental linear scale.
• Collect 30 to 100 paired data points.
• Find the highest and lowest value for both variables.
• Draw the vertical (y) and horizontal (x) axes of a graph.
• Plot the data
• Title the diagram
The shape that the cluster of dots takes will tell you something about the
relationship between the two variables that you tested.
 Flow
Charts
• Flow Charts Defined
– A flow chart is a pictorial representation showing all
of the steps of a process.
 Flow Charts
Purpose:
Visual illustration of the sequence of operations required
to complete a task
 Schematic drawing of the process to measure or improve.
 Starting point for process improvement
 Potential weakness in the process are made visual.
 Picture of process as it should be.
Toolbox
How is it done?
 Write the process step inside
each symbol
 Connect the Symbols with
arrows showing the direction
of flow
Continuous Improvement
Continuous Improvement is an ongoing effort to
improve products, services or processes. These efforts
can seek “incremental” improvement over time.

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– Continually seeking ways to improve
operations,

– Not unique to quality – also applies to

improvements,
– Never-ending process of achieving small wins.
other process
 Areas for
Continuous
Improvement
•Machinery
•Materials
•Labor utilization
•Production methods
 .
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 Continuous
Improvement
Tools
• For Generating Ideas:
• Brainstorming
• Employee Suggestion Box

• To Collect & Organize the Data:

• Check sheet
• Pareto charts
• Flow charts (Process diagrams)

• For Identifying Problems:

• Cause & Effect diagram
• Scatter diagram
• Histogram
• Statistical Process Control
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8
 Continuous Improvement
Approaches we will
consider
• Deming Approach – Reduce variability

• Kaizen Approach – Just Do It

• Shingo Approach – Zero Defects

• Goldratt’s Approach – Theory of Constraints

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9
Continuous Improvement Approaches:
Deming
• Dr. J. Edward Deming, the famous quality guru, provided a simple
yet highly effective technique that serves as a practical tool to carry
out continuous improvement in the workplace.

• This technique is called PDCA Cycle or simply Deming Cycle.

• PDCA is acronym of Plan, Do, Check andAction.

• Deming Cycle provides conceptual as well as practical framework
while carrying out Kaizen activities by the employees.

• Let‟s understand the concept with following illustration:

.
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 Continuous Improvement Approaches: Deming

The four steps Plan, Do, Check and

Action should be repeated over time
to ensure continuous learning and
improvements in a function, product
or process.

PLAN stage involves analyzing the

current situation, gathering data, and
developing ways to make
improvements.

The DO stage involves testing alternatives experimentally in a laboratory establishing

a pilot process, or trying it out with small number of customers.

The CHECK stage requires determining whether the trial or process is working as
intended, whether any revisions are needed, or whether is should be scrapped.

The ACT stage focuses on implementing the process within the organization or with its
customers and suppliers.
.
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 Continuous Improvement Approaches:
Kaizen
• Kaizen is a Japanese word. It is basically composed of two words “KAI”
means change and “ZEN” means better. In other words it means change
for betterment or improvement.

• Kaizen is a philosophy that defines management‟s role in continuously

encouraging and implementing small improvements involving everyone. It
is the process of continuous improvement in small increments that
make the process more efficient, effective, under control, and adaptable.

• Improvements are usually accomplished at little or no expense, without

sophisticated techniques or expensive equipments.

• It focuses on simplification by breaking down complex processes into their

sub-processes and then improving them.
.
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 Continuous Improvement Approaches:
Kaizen
The Kaizen improvement focuses on the use of:

 Value-added and non-value-added work activities.

 Muda, which refers to seven classes of waste-overproduction, delay,
transportation, processing, inventory, wasted motion, and defective
parts.
 Principles of motion study and use of cell technology.
 Principles of material handling and use of one-piece flow.
 Documentation of standard operating procedures.
 The five S‟s for workplace organization. (Already explained in Lean
Production Post)

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 Continuous Improvement Approaches:
Kaizen
 Visual management by means of visual displays that everyone in the
plant can use for better communications.
 Just-in-time principles to produce only the units in the right
quantities, at the right time, and with right resources.
 Poka-yoke to prevent or detect errors.
 Team dynamics, which include problem solving, communication
skills, and conflict resolution.

Kaizen relies heavily on a culture that encourages suggestions by

operators who continually try to incrementally improve their job or
process.

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 What is Benchmarking???
•A method for identifying and importing
best practices in order to improve
performance.
•The process of learning, adapting, and
measuring outstanding practices and
processes from any organization to improve
performance.

4/18/2016 17
 Why Do
Companies
Benchmark?
• Companies use benchmarking as a way to become more
competitive. By looking at how other companies are doing,
they can identify areas where they are underperforming.

• Companies are also able to identify ways that can improve

their own operations without having to recreate the wheel.

• They are able to accelerate the process of change because they

have models from other companies in their industry to help
guide their changes.
4/18/2016
 Types of

benchmarking
Benchmarking can be internal (comparing performance between different
groups or teams within an organization) or external
(comparing performance with companies in aspecific industry or
across industries).

 Within these broader categories, there are three specific types of

benchmarking:

1) Process benchmarking,
2) Performance benchmarking and
3) Strategic benchmarking. These can be further detailed asfollows:
 4/18/2016
19
Benchmarking Process
Identify problem areas

Implement new and improved businessIdentify

practices
other industries that have similar processes

Visit the "best practice" companies to identify leading edge practices

Identify organizationsthat are leaders in these a

Survey companies for measures and practices

4/18/2016 88
1. Identify problem areas
• Select the process to be benchmarked

• Benchmarking can be applied to any business process or function

and a range of research techniques may be required. They include
informal conversations with customers, employees, or suppliers;
exploratory research techniques such as focus groups; or in-depth
marketing research, quantitative research, surveys,
questionnaires, re-engineering analysis, process mapping, quality
control variance reports, financial ratio analysis, or simply reviewing
cycle times or other performance indicators.

• Before embarking on comparison with other organizations it is

essential to know the organization's function and processes; base
lining performance provides a point against which improvement effort
can be measured.

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89
2. Identify other industries that have
similar processes

• For instance, if one were interested in improving a

particular process or performance, one would identify
other fields that also have same challenges.

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3. Identify organizations that are leaders
in these areas
• Look for the very best in any industry and in any country.
Consult customers, suppliers, financial analysts, trade
associations, and magazines to determine which
companies are worthy of study.

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 4. Survey companies for measures
and practices
• Companies target specific business processes using
detailed surveys of measures and practices and its used
to identify business process alternatives and leading
companies. Surveys are typically masked to protect
confidential data by neutral associations and
consultants.

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 5. Visit the "best practice" companies
to identify leading edge practices
• Companies typically agree to mutually exchange
information beneficial to all parties in a benchmarking
group and share the results within the group.

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 6. Implement new and improved
business practices
• Take the leading edge practices and develop
implementation plans which include identification of
specific opportunities, funding the project and selling the
ideas to the organization for the purpose of gaining
demonstrated value from the process

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 The Benefits of
Benchmarking
Benefits include:
·Better performance in meeting customer needs & requirements.
·Establishing effective business goals and objectives.
·Measuring true productivity.
·Becoming competitive
·Identifying & implementing best practice in business processes

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 What is
Lean?
Lean is a philosophy that seeks to eliminate waste in all
aspects of a firm‟s production activities: human relations,
vendor relations, technology, and the management of
materials and inventory.

Lean manufacturing or lean production, often simply "lean",

is a systematic method for the elimination of waste
("Muda") within a manufacturing system. Lean also takes
into account waste created through overburden ("Muri")
and waste created through unevenness in work loads
("Mura").

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 Objectives of Lean
management.
Some commonly mentioned goals are:
• Improve quality: To stay competitive in today's
marketplace, a company must understand its customers'
wants and needs and design processes to meet their
expectations and requirements.

• Eliminate waste: Waste is any activity that consumes

time, resources, or space but does not add any value to
the product or service.

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 Objectives of Lean
management.
• Reduce time: Reducing the time it takes to finish an
activity from start to finish is one of the most effective
ways to eliminate waste and lower costs.

• Reduce total costs: To minimize cost, a company must

produc only to customer demand. Overproduction
e
increases a company‟s inventory costs because of
storage needs.

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 Principles of
Lean
Manufacturing
• Elimination of Waste

– Continuous Improvement

• Respect For Humanity

– Levelized Production

» Just In Time Production

• Quality Built-in

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Principles of Lean Manufacturing

• Elimination of Waste:
• One of the most critical principles of lean manufacturing is the elimination of waste (known as
muda in the Toyota Production System). Many of the other principles revolve around this concept.
There are 7 basic types of waste in manufacturing:

• Over Production
• Waste of Unnecessary Motion
• Waste of Inventory
• Production of Defects
• Waste of Waiting
• Waste of Transportation
• Waste of Over-processing

• Although the above mentioned types of waste were originally geared toward manufacturing,
they can be applied to many different types of business. The idea of waste elimination is to review
all areas in your organization, determine where the non- value added work is and reduce or
eliminate it.

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10
0
 Principles of
Lean
Manufacturing
Continuous Improvement
• Continuous Improvement (commonly referred to by the Japanese word
kaizen) is arguably the most critical principle of lean manufacturing. It
should truly form the basis of your lean implementation. Without continuous
improvement your progress will cease. As the name implies, Continuous
Improvement promotes constant, necessary change toward achievement of
a desired state. The changes can be big or small but must lend itself toward
improvement (often many small changes are required to achieve the target).
The process truly is continual as there is always room for improvement.

• Continuous Improvement should be a mind-set throughout your whole

organization. Do not get caught up in only trying to find the big ideas. Small
ideas will often times lead to big improvements.
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10
1
Principles of Lean Manufacturing

Respect For Humanity

• The next lean manufacturing principle has to do with people. The most
valuable resource to any company are the people who work for it. Without
these people the business does not succeed. When people do not feel
respected, they tend to lose respect for the company. This can become a
major problem when you are trying to implement lean.
• Most people want to perform well in their jobs. Not only do they go to work
to earn a living, but they also want to develop a sense of worth in their work.
They want to feel like they have contributed to the company goals, like their
work and effort has meant something. A company supporting a respect for
humanity philosophy will appreciate their workers efforts and keep them in
high regard.
• Some of the methods to ensure your people know you respect them is
through constant communication, praise of a job well done, listening to their
ideas and helping out when necessary.

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10
2
 Principles of
Lean
Manufacturing
Levelized Production
• As mentioned on the home page, the foundation of lean manufacturing is
levelized production. The basis of this principle is that the work load is the
same (or level) every day. Most manufacturing companies are at the mercy
of their customers for orders. Before producing product, they wait to get
orders. This leads to increased delivery lead time which may not satisfy
customer requirements.

• On the other end of the spectrum, some companies will produce based
strictly on a forecast. This may result in excess product that is not required
by the customer. Levelized production takes into consideration both forecast
and history. The key ingredient for this lean manufacturing principle is
utilization of a pull system.
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10
3
Principles of Lean Manufacturing

Just In Time Production

• The next key principle to mention is Just In Time (JIT) production. The basis
behind this principle is to build what is required, when it is required and in
the quantity required. Working in conjunction with levelized production, this
principle works well with kanbans (a pull system). It allows for movement
and production of parts only when required. This means components are
not used in product that is not required and no time is wasted building
unsalable product.

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10
4
Principles of Lean Manufacturing

• Quality Built In
• The last key lean manufacturing principle that I would like to touch on is Quality
Built In . The idea behind this principle is that quality is built into the
manufacturing process. Quality is built into the design of the part. Quality is built
into the packaging. Throughout all areas of the product, from design to shipping,
quality is a major consideration.

• Automation with a human touch falls within this principle. Machines that can detect
defects and stop production are an excellent example of this principle. Part profile
mistake-proofing, which prevents an operator from mis-orienting parts, is another
excellent example. In Lean Manufacturing (or any other system), the focus must be
on doing it right the first time.

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10
5
Benefits of lean manufacturing
• Improved quality – A lot of the activity in a lean environment is geared
towards improving quality. As quality issues arise, problem solving
techniques are used to root cause the problem. From there, mistake
proofing is put in place to strengthen the process and prevent recurrence.
As a result, the quality of your product will be improved.
• Improved Visual Management – Another benefit of lean manufacturing is
management by sight. If done correctly, your plant will be set up so you can
evaluate an entire area with a visual scan. Any abnormalities will stand out
and be easy to identify as a problem.
• Increased efficiency – Line balancing will ensure each person in the
process is working in the most efficient manner. Standardized work will
ensure they are doing it correctly following the same method every time.
This leads to repeatability and increased efficiencies.

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10
6
Benefits of lean manufacturing
• Manpower reductions – One of the major benefits of lean is getting more done with
less people. With standardized work and increased efficiencies, the ability to do the
job with less people becomes a very real possibility. This does not mean you have to
send these people to the unemployment line. The concept of lean would have these
freed-up people utilized to perform further kaizen activity, training to enhance skill
level, or maintenance of the system once it is implemented.

• Easier to manage – The work instructions and standardized work let people know
what they have to do and when. This makes managing an area much easier. And
problems will still arise. But they will be much easier to deal with in a team
environment where the support groups are eager to help solve problems.

• Total Company Involvement – Lean is meant to involve the whole company. It is not
intended to be put into action in only one area. It is a management philosophy which
should include every part of your organization. This helps promote the concept that
everyone in the company is part of the team.

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10
7
Benefits of lean manufacturing
• Problem Elimination – Lean manufacturing forces you to attack an issue
and continue to investigate it until it has been eliminated. Root cause
analysis and cross-functional teams are utilized to ensure a problem
receives the level of attention it deserves to correct it.

• Reduced Space – As part of the waste reduction process, space will be

created. Reduction of finished and raw inventory will save space vertically in
your racking as well as horizontally across your floor.

• Safer Work Environment – Visual management and 5S will help identify

when things are out of place. When unnecessary elements are removed
from the operation, the workplace becomes much more organized. And an
organized work environment is a safe work environment.

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10
8
Benefits of lean manufacturing
• Improved employee morale – This is a benefit that may not be
realized during the initial stages of your implementation (see
resistance below). But once the concept of lean starts to get
accepted by the employees, you will see employee morale on the
rise. Employee involvement and empowerment will make all
members of your company feel like a contributing part of the team.
And the reduction of uncertainty in the workplace, as a result of lean,
will reduce stress in your team members and lead to improved
employee morale.

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10
9
 What is
5S???
• Developed by the Japanese, Housekeeping System,
helps to Create a Better Working Environment and a
Consistently High Quality Process.

• The 5S„s are simple but effective methods to organise

the workplace.
– Seiri (Organisation/Sort out)
– Seiton (Straighten/ Orderliness)
– Seison (The Cleaning/Shining)
– Seiketsu (Systematise/ Standardize)
– Shitsuke (Sustain)

.4/18/2016
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0
 The
5S‟s
• Seiri (Organisation/Sort out)
– Decide/classify what you need and what don‟t,
– Remove unnecessary clutter/items
– All tools, gauges, materials, classified and then stored
– Remove items which are broken, unusable or only occasionally
used.

• Seiton (Straighten/ Orderliness)

• to arrange items to minimise search time and effort,
• Ensure everything is available as it is needed and at
the “point of use”
• Positions of aisles and storage places clearly marked?
• Tools classified and stored by frequency of use?
• Safety equipment easily accessible?
• Floors in good condition? .4/18/2016
11
1
 The
5S‟s
• Seison (The Cleaning/Shining)
• Seison means cleaning the working environment.
• It can help in the spotting of potential problems as well
• as reducing the risk of fire/injury by cleaning away
the potential causes of accidents.

• Seiketsu (Systematise/ Standardize)

• Generate a maintenance system for the first three
• Develop procedures, schedules, practices
• Continue to assess the use and disposal of items
• Regularly audit using checklists and measures of
• housekeeping
• Real challenge is to keep it clean .4/18/2016
11
2
 The
5S‟s
• Shitsuke (Sustain)
– Shitsuke means self-discipline.
– Means inoculate courtesy & good habits
– Driving force behind all 5S
– Deming‟s point number 1: Constancy of purpose
– Make it a way of life
– Part of health and safety
– Involve the whole workforce

.4/18/2016
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3
What is Six Sigma???
 Six Sigma - Six Sigma at many organizations simply means a
measure of quality that strives for near perfection. Six Sigma is a
disciplined, data-driven approach and methodology for eliminating
defects (driving toward six standard deviations between the mean and
the nearest specification limit) in any process – from manufacturing to
transactional and from product to service.

 A method that provides organizations tools to improve the capability

of their business processes. This increase in performance and
decrease in process variation lead to defect reduction and
improvement in profits, employee morale, and quality of products
or services.

.4/18/2016
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4
 What is Six Sigma???
Six Sigma is a management philosophy developed
by Motorola that emphasizes setting extremely high
objectives, collecting data, and analyzing results to
a fine degree as a way to reduce defects in
products and services. The Greek letter sigma is
sometimes used to denote variation from a
standard. The philosophy behind Six Sigma is that
if you measure how many defects are in a process,
you can figure out how to systematically eliminate
them and get as close to perfection as possible. In
order for a company to achieve Six Sigma, it
cannot produce more than 3.4 defects per million
opportunities, where an opportunity is defined as a
chance
4/18/2016
for nonconformance.
 Six sigma
•
M e t
The re a re
ho d o l o g i e s
tw o S i x Si g m a processes: Six
Sigma DMAIC
and Six Sigma DMADV, each term derived from the
major steps in the process.

• Six Sigma DMAIC is a process that defines, measures,

analyzes, improves, and controls existing processes that fall
below the Six Sigma specification.

• Six Sigma DMADV defines, measures, analyzes, designs, and

verifies new processes or products that are trying to achieve
Six Sigma quality.
 .
4/18/2016
.
What is DMAIC?

• Define,
• Measure,
• Analyze,
• Improve &
• Control

4/18/2016 52
Define
• Define the Customer, their Critical to Quality
(CTQ)
issues, and the Core Business Process involved.

• Define who customers are, what their requirements are

for products and services, and what their expectations
are,

• Define project boundaries (scope) the stop and start of

the process.

• Define the process to be improved by mapping the

process flow.
4/18/2016
11
8
Measure
• Measure the performance
of the Core Business
Process involved.

• Develop a data collection plan for the process ,

• Collect data from many sources to determine types of

defects and metrics,

• Compare to customer survey results to determine

shortfall.

4/18/2016
11
9
Analyze
• Analyze the data collected and process map to
determine root causes of defects and opportunities for
improvement.

• Identify gaps between current performance and goal

performance ,

• Prioritize opportunities to improve ,

• Identify sources of variation.

4/18/2016
12
0
Improve
• Improve the target process by designing creative
solutions to fix and prevent problems.

• Create innovate solutions using technology and

discipline,

• Develop and deploy implementation plan.

.4/18/2016
12
1
Control

• This is the last step in the DMAIC methodology.

• Control ensures that any variances stand out and are

corrected before they can influence a process
negatively causing defects.

• Control the improvements to keep the process on the

new course.

• Prevent reverting back to the "old way“

4/18/2016
12
2
 What is DMADV?

• Acronym for:

 Define the project

 Measure the opportunity
 Analyze the process options
 Design the process
 Verify the performance

58 4/18/2016
What is DMADV?

• The DMADV project methodology, known as DFSS

("Design For Six Sigma”)
– Define design goals that are consistent with customer
demands and the enterprise strategy.
– Measure and identify CTQs (characteristics that
are Critical Quality), measure product capabilities,
To
production process capability, and measure risks.
– Analyze to develop and design alternatives
– Design an improved alternative, best suited per analysis in
the previous step
– Verify the design, set up pilot runs, implement the
What is DMADV?
production process and hand it over to the process
owner(s).
4/18/2016
When should six sigma be used?

Its usage depends on the type of business. In

general,

“If there are processes that generate a lot of

negative customer feedback, whether that
customer is internal or external, the components
of six sigma should be considered as a means to
study and rectify the problem.”

x4./18/2016
60
 Where can Six Sigma be
applieSde?rvice
Desig
Managemen
Purchas
Six
Administration
Sigma Productio
Methods

IT
Qualit
y
HR M&

4/18/2016 61
Benefits of six sigma

• Generates sustained success,

• Sets performance goal for everyone,
• Enhances value for customers,
• Accelerates rate of improvement,
• Promotes learning across boundaries,
• Executes strategic change.

4/18/2016 62
MERCHANDISING

 The activity of trying to sell goods or services by

advertising them or displaying them attractively.

 According to American Marketing Association,

merchandising encompasses "planning involved
in marketing the right merchandise or service at
the right place, at the right time, in the
right quantities, and at the right price.”

 The planning and promotion of sales by

presenting a product to the right market at the
proper time, by carrying out organized, skillful 2
advertising, using attractive displays, etc.
 MERCHANDISING
 The process of identifying and understanding what target
customers want and providing their desired textile
products to them in a certain price and lead-time by
making a communication bridge between the customer
and the company.

So merchandising process involve of at least three

parties:
1. Company: who offering product to the customer.
2. Customer: who is targeted by company with the help of
merchandiser?
3. Merchandiser: merchandiser places his position between
the above two parties. 3
 MERCHANDISING

Merchandising is executing an order from receiving to

shipment through proper following-up the in-between
processes.

4
 MERCHANDISING FUNCTIONS

 Study of fashion trend and fashion forecast in association

with fashion designer;
 Studying potential target customer;

 Sourcing information about the customer and his profile;

 Sourcing information about the product, its categories,

styles, specifications, assortments, size details etc. ;
 Sourcing foreign buyer;

 Negotiating orders, cost calculation, pricing, securing

orders through master LC;
 Sourcing fabrics, trims and accessories;
5
 MERCHANDISING FUNCTIONS

 Placing order for the fabrics, trims and accessories materials

and making regular follow-up;
 Getting samples made, making costing and pricing of the same;

 Rectifying samples if necessary;

 Completing the whole sampling procedure as per customer

requirement;
 Getting buyer approval of the sample;

 Estimating lead time;

 Production and shipment planning;

 Keeping track of raw material arrival, production cycle, and

organizing inspections; 6
MERCHANDISING FUNCTIONS

 Monitoring production and product quality;

 Making regular liaison with the customer and keeping him
update on order & production status;
 Follow up of customer instruction in respect of packing and
packaging;
 Arranging product delivery on time;
 Follow up with the customer in respect of shipment and
informing him shipment details;
 Coordinate with shipping/ export department;
 Arranging payment against export order;
 Quick response follow up in respect of any of the buyer‟s 7

query.
 ROLE AND RESPONSIBILITY OF MERCHANDISER

 Securing order, sourcing materials and constant follow-

up with the customer;
 Coordinate with all the concerned departments of
manufacturing factory, supplier organization and the
buyer.
 Needs to cut a balance between quality, lead time,
delivery schedule and price of the merchandise;
 Organize the purchase of materials, follow-up of
production, costing, quality & delivery schedule under
tight deadlines.
8
TIME AND ACTION (TNA) CALENDAR

 TNA: Normally merchandisers prepare a plan of the

order in a spreadsheet by listing down the key processes
in first column and planned date of action for each
process in the next column. This planning sheet is
popularly known as time and action calendar (TNA).
Once TNA calendar is made, then it can be easy for
merchandiser list down their daily 'to do list' and taking it
one by one.

15
IMPORTANCE OF (TNA)

 It helps to streamline the pre-production activities.

 Easy understanding of order processing.
 Clear understanding of timelines given by buyer.
 It gives the clear idea about the minor or sub activities
that need to perform during order processing at different
level.
 TNA gives the idea about the status of running order and
talks about delay or deviation, if any
 TNA gives the dates at which raw material need to be
sourced, in a way it helps to optimize the inventory.
 TNA also reduces the risk of delivery delay. 16
FACTORS TO BE CONSIDERED WHILE PREPARING

TNA

 Production capacity of plant

 Style type of merchandise
 Festivals of manufacturing country
 Holidays
 Shipment details
 Festivals of country from where raw material is imported
 Logistics facilities
 Lead time estimated by buyer
 Style complications
 Fabric and trims manufacturing complications
 Buffer required from each department
 Political stability of the country
 Flexibility of freight forwarder
 Response time from buyer at different stages
 Lead times of various activities like L/C payment, custom clearance,

etc 17
 Cut off dates for shipments
 FLOW CHART OF MERCHANDISING ACTIVITIES

Marketing

Buyer Request

Pricing-costing

Order Receipt & confirmation

Order execution through

coordinationg following steps
22
 FLOW CHART OF MERCHANDISING ACTIVITIES

Trims/Accessories
Sampling Fabric

• Development sample Source suppliers

• Receive
• sample preparation Develop trims/accessories
color
and send to buyer for Trims/accessories preparation and sen
standards Trims/accessories
approval • L/D or Y/D booking booking
• Proto sample • L/D or Y/D In-house trims/accessories
• sample preparation preparation and
and send to buyer for send to buyer
approval for approval
• PP sample • Fabric quality send
• sample preparation to buyer for approval
and send to buyer for • Fabric / Yarn dyeing
approval booking
• Production sample • 1st Bulk dyed
• sample preparation fabric send to
and send to buyer for buyer for shade
approval. approval 23
• continue dyeing
 FLOW CHART OF MERCHANDISING ACTIVITIES

Start Production

Arrange Inspection after

Production

Vessel Booking (about 15

days prior to inspection)

Export documentation &

logistics
24
 SAMPLING

 Sample: A few item or goods taken from a large number

of similar goods are called sample.

 Sampling: Sampling is the most technical feature of the

merchandiser‟s job. This involves developing new
products or taking some existing products to the new
customer to meet the customer demands.

25
 SAMPLING PROCESS

Getting Buyers
1. Getting buyer requirement: On query
reception of the request from the
buyer, merchandiser evaluates the
Sample
request.
preparation
–Clarify the sample specifications
with the help of R&D people.
Evaluating Results
–Checking possibility:
•If not possible, buyer should If
be informed instantly. ok
Packing and
•If possible, its completion and dispatch
dispatch date is to be confirmed
to the buyer ASAP keeping in Buyer’s feedback
view all processes time. 26
 SAMPLING PROCESS
2. Sample Preparation: After doing the necessary calculations,
merchandiser first checks whether such sample in stocks or not?
–In case of sample already present in finished stocks in the right
quantity and quality, then he can inform the buyer about the
dispatch date in this regards
–In case, Merchandiser does not have any sample available, he
will forward the sample request (sample booking) to the relevant
department.

3. Evaluating results: merchandiser gets the results from the

Quality Control lab and compares it with the standards specified
by the buyers. If the sample results are consistent with the
desired results, then it can be sent to the buyer.
27
 SAMPLING PROCESS
4. Sample packing and dispatch: the sample is properly
packed for its safe arrival at the destination. For the
sample dispatch, the merchandiser sends the sample via
courier and puts complete detail along- with the sample
for buyer reference.
5. Seeking buyer’s comments: Once the sample reaches
the buyer, merchandiser gets the comments from the
buyer and keeps records of it.
–If sample is approved, then he go for bulk production or
next processes.
–If rejected , requires rework according to buyer
comments.
28
 TYPES OF SAMPLES

 Prototype sample
 Fit sample
 Size-Set sample
 Sales man / Marketing /Showroom sample
 Pre- production sample: (PP sample)
 Approved samples
 Production Samples
 GPT sample (Garment Performance Test)
 Photo Samples
 Counter Samples
29
 TYPES OF SAMPLES

 Prototype samples: These are samples developed during the

preliminary stages of product development. They are made by
similar but not always exact fabrics & trims. But must be made as
per buyer sketch, specification sheet.

 Size-Set Samples: A sample of each size is required by the buyer

after giving comments on “ Prototype Samples”. Size-Set samples

\
are requested to check the accuracy of each size pattern.

 Fit sample: Fit sample is made and sent to conform the fit of the
garment on live models or on dummy and for approval of
construction details.

30
 TYPES OF SAMPLES

 Sales man / Marketing /Showroom sample: These are

the samples used by the buyer for promotion or sale of their product.
It is a special order from buyer. These are required in exact fabrics,
shades and accessories. More quantities are required in this case and
payments are made by the customer.

 Pre- production sample (PP sample): Must be in actual

fabrics, trims and accessories. Bulk fabric cannot be cut until these
samples are approved by the buyer.

 Approved samples: Upon approval of the pre-production

samples by the buyer, they will be sealed and tagged with comments
if necessary. The approved pre-production samples is called
31
approved samples.
 TYPES OF SAMPLES

 Production Samples: Representative samples taken from a

production line on random basis by buyer‟s representative is called
production sample. A production samples approved and accepted by
buyer may represent shipment samples.
 GPT sample (Garment Performance Test): The main purpose of
GPT is to perform the physical and chemical testing on garment to
ensure the performance of the garment. The tests done on garments
are: Shrinkage, Color Fastness, Seam performance etc. Garments for
GPT sample can be done along with Size Set sample. Normally,
GPT Sample is sent to 3rd party inspection and results are sent to
both factory as well as buyer.

 Photo Samples: These samples are photographed for making

brochures, catalogs, etc for distribution to stores and for end-use. 32
 TYPES OF SAMPLES

 Counter Samples: Sometimes required approved samples in

different departments but there is only one approved samples. So
merchandiser can reproduce a number of samples against the
available approved samples.

33
REQUIREMENT OF SAMPLE SUBMISSION

34
 SAMPLING DOCUMENTS

 There are some reports along-with the sample to be sent

to the customer.

A. Covering letter
B. Specification sheet
C. Sample tag

35
 SAMPLING DOCUMENTS
 Covering letter: In covering letter, Merchandiser
mentions the below details:
 The name of company which asks the sample
 Contact person
 Phone no of destination
 The brief description of the sample
 The weight and quantity of sample

36
 SAMPLING DOCUMENTS
 Specification sheet: In specification sheet, Merchandiser
mentions the technical aspects of the sample with quality
lab results. Example- Knitted Garments T-Shirt:
 GSM of Fabric
 Fabric Type
 Half chest
 Garments length
 Sleeve length
 Armhole
 Shoulder with etc.
37
 SAMPLING DOCUMENTS
 Sample Tag: The sample Hang-tag is attached to the
fabric/garments. It can contain the following
information:
 Sample Number
 Garment style #
 Composition
 Fabric/Garments type
 Shade
 GSM
 Price
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 DEPARTMENTAL STRUCTURES IN
MERCHANDISING

 Merchandising can be structured in numerous ways but more

commonly, it is structured on the basis of -
1. Customers
2. Products
3. Geography

On Basis of Customers:
Merchandisers are supposed to retain the customers and they are
their representatives, so the division based on customers is very
logical from this point of view.
 Merchandiser A: taking care of “IKEA”
 Merchandiser B: Taking care of “WALMART”
 Merchandiser C: Taking care of “LI &FUNGs”
3
 Merchandiser D: Taking care of “TESCO”
ON BASIS OF CUSTOMERS

40
ON BASIS OF PRODUCTS

41
ON THE BASIS OF GEOGRAPHY

42
 QUALITIES OF A MERCHANDISER
 Good knowledge about fiber, yarn, fabric, dyeing, printing,
finishing, dyes, color fastness, garments production, etc.
 Clear conception of the usual potential quality problems in the
garments manufacturing.
 Good knowledge of the usual raw materials inspection
systems & garments inspection system
 Knowledge of the quota system used in each of the production
countries, duty rates, custom regulation, shipping and banking
documentation etc.
 Right consumption knowledge of various goods
 Costing knowledge of raw materials
 Order getting ability
 Sincere& responsible
43
 Hard worker
 QUALITIES OF A MERCHANDISER (CONTD…..)
 Communication Skills (Verbal, Written, Listening)
 Managerial Skills (Technical, Human, Conceptual)
 Well-Groomed Personality
 Accessibility, Available and Mobility
 Politeness & Tolerance
 Coordination and Follow-ups
First and foremost, you‟ll need to have a passion for retail.
Employers will look for commercial awareness, numeracy
and the ability to think logically, and you will need to be good
at quickly identifying problems and recommending solutions.
It will help if you have experience of working with customers
and experience working in a retail environment will set you 44
ahead of the competition.
 Scope of Merchandising

Manufactu
Buying
ring Houses/
Brands Companies Liaison
offices
 SCOPE OF MERCHANDISING
(CONTD….)
 Brands: Merchandising doing all sorts of marketing research,
promotions, fashion designing, selecting new fabrics,
garments styles and shades for the upcoming seasons.
⚫ Example: Adidas, Benetton, Calvin Klein, Esprit, Hugo Boss, J.
Crew, Izod, Levi's, Lee etc.

 Manufacturing companies: Merchandisers are usually

involved in the completion of sampling, price negotiations and
then following-up of production. They liaise with brands
directly or with their liaison office/buying house in order to
get their work done.
 Buying House/Liaison offices: Merchandisers play the role
of Middle-men between the above two situations and make a
communication bridge. Their purpose is to get the work done 46
from manufacturers as per their customer‟s requirement.
ORDER NEGOTIATION
 Orders that have been sent to factories will be negotiated for
price, delivery, quota and quality etc. The order negotiation
between the buyer and the manufacturer is not always an easy
task. The buyers are always trying to get this garments made
at very low prices whilst the manufacturers are hoping they
will get at least 2 per cent more than what they got last time
for a similar style.
 The buyer always has a target price for the merchandise he
hopes to buy. He has already finished his home work and fully
aware of the market price for the particular type of garment.
Therefore, he will do his best to buy the garments bellow his
target price or for his target price. We should not forget the
globe is full of manufacturers and suppliers. The buyer will
certainly move to another manufacturer or country if he fails 47
to buy at his price.
ORDER NEGOTIATION
 On the other hand, the manufacturers will promise the best
quality and prompt delivery to convince the buyers to pay
extra dollar or two for his merchandise. It is rather difficult to
convince a buyer to pay more than his target price, but it may
be possible to do so if the company has a good relationship
with the buyer or if the company has a very good reputation
for excellent performance. In other words a good image
should do the trick.
 Buying offices or their representatives should not consult
companies operating at very high CMT to do very low
priced merchandise. Therefore the buying offices not
only should have knowledge on company‟s
performance
but also their average CMT prices. 48
ORDER NEGOTIATION
 Another important aspect in the order negotiation is to know
the fairly accurate cost of making the garment. Most factories
do this in a hurry and invariably arrive at out of focus cost.
This situation will cause frustration to both parties during an
order negotiation. The buyers are generally more conversant
with the costing and would be able to judge almost
immediately the manufacturer‟s operations if the price quoted
is very much different from his target price,
 If the quoted price is higher it may be due to
1. Higher overheads in the factory
2. Lower productivity in the factory
3. Higher mark-up (the amount added by a seller to the cost of a
commodity to cover expenses and profit in fixing the selling price.)
4. Raw material cost at high prices
49
5. Wrong consumption etc.
ORDER NEGOTIATION
 However the Buyer may not be that dissatisfied if the price quoted is
little higher than his expected price. We might think that the price
would be able to bring it down through negotiations. He might offer
his help to improve productivity consumption and in the purchase of
raw material at very competitive prices.
 If the quoted price is significantly low, the buyer might think the
factory is not capable of manufacturing his goods for his
satisfaction. Low price would reflect bad on the factory rather that
securing he order. It looks rather funny, because we are in era where
prices are at rock-bottom but still there is a minimum price which is
offered by the buyer. Anything below means poor quality
merchandise.
 Therefore it is paramount importance to be at least 80 percent
accurate - the costing of a garment. It must also be remembered that
the buyer will not buy a particular garment at one price from two 50
different companies. The successful company will be offered the
contract to manufacture.