Toota's Tractor: Before You Start
Toota's Tractor: Before You Start
The size of the finished tractor will vary depending on the yarn used, hook used and how tightly you crochet. I use DK
yarn and a 3.0mm hook, and my tractors measure approx. 21cm long x 19cm high.
The best advice I can give you for yarn selection is find something suitable for the windows, then find the colours you
need in a similar weight. It really looks best with a silvery shine on the windows rather than plain yarn. I use Ice Yarns
Silver Shine, but as it is only available in packs of 8 balls you may prefer to find something similar available in smaller
quantities.
Some parts of this toy are constructed and/or finished using embroidery chain stitch.
Thank you for purchasing this pattern. It has been supplied for personal use only and may not be copied, shared or
reproduced in any way, although I am happy for you to sell the finished articles.
Photos within this pattern may not be used without permission from Toota Toys.
Yarn weight doesn’t matter, as long as all colours are a similar thickness and an appropriate hook size is selected.
This toy does not need to be stuffed as firmly as most amigurumi and therefore the stitches don’t need to be really
tight. Using DK yarn and a 3.0mm hook, I used the following quantities:
I use foam rubber for most of the stuffing to help keep the shape right. Using fibrefill will cause pieces to bulge if
stuffed firmly, ie wheels will become balls instead of flat discs.
Also required is a tapestry needle and a few large head pins to use for markers and holding parts being sewn.
Abbreviations
This toy needs a lot of sewing together. Where it is useful to leave a long start or finishing tail to use for sewing, it is
marked with *. Eg FO*
In the last st in colour 1, stop This completes the st in colour 1, Work the required sts in colour 2,
before the final yo and make this in and is ready to make the next st in leaving colour 1 skein hanging at
the new colour, then pull through colour 2 back of work
remaining loops on hook
Crochet in colour 2 as normal, Bringing colour 1 up to become the Before making the first st in new
including turning if necessary until active thread leaves a loop of yarn colour, pass the hook under this loop
it is time to change back to colour between the 2 rows
1. As above, make final yo of last st
in new colour
Then through the st as normal, and This tightens and tidies the join
complete the st.
Underneath Photo 3
Photo 3
Place the first roof section behind the second, and work
17
sc through blo of front section, and flo of back section.
Work 3 sc in the corner to change direction smoothly,
and continue joining the 2 sections together evenly
around all sides, working 3 sc in each corner. Ss to join,
ch 1 Photo 4
18 Sc BLO round all sides, working 2sc in the centre st in
each corner. Ss to join and FO*.
Assemble Cab
Do the same for the front section, joining cab into a Photo 5
square box shape. Again, hold the side piece behind the
front. Photo 6
Photo 15 Photo 16
Fold flap just made down and sew in place on both sides.
(Photo 29)
Photo 29
*With black, ch 11
1 10 hdc
2 10 fphdc
3-11 Repeat last row 9 more times
12 Work 1 row sc
FO* (Photo 30)
Sew grill into front of bonnet, with ridges running vertically Photo 30
Photo 31
Ladders
Ladder framework is worked in embroidery chain st, then sc worked onto the frame. I believe a video would have
worked better than endless photos, but I simply am not capable of producing a video of reasonable quality, so
apologies for that
4: Work 6 embroidery ch sts, 5: Pass needle back through last st 6: Starting with the loop just
finishing at bottom of cab made to form a loop made, crochet 9 ch
13: Work 2-3 embroidery ch sts 14: Insert hook under 1st
across bottom cab seam to form embroidery ch made, and pull up a 15: Ch 1
2nd rung loop from the skein
16: Work sc down the 6 ch st, 17: FO, leaving a tail around 50cm 18: then back through the top of
around the 9 ch, then back up the long and thread it into needle. Pass the st to form a loop
other side of 6 ch st needle back through tops of sc to
3rd st,
19: Sc in each ch st on 1st rung, 20: Sew top of rung to side of 21: Pass needle through tops of
then FO ladder sc down to lower rung, and
repeat from 18-20
Front Wheels
Make another the same but don’t FO, and join with black as
for rear mudguards, working
3 Sc 15, [2sc], sc, [2sc], sc, [2sc], sc 17, [2sc], sc, [2sc], sc, [2sc]
Ss to join, FO*.
Counterweight
End (Make 2)
Pick up and sc 3 st across end of counterweight
ch 1, turn, sc 3
FO* and sew end into counterweight Photo 35
Photo 36
Photo 37
Line up the front wheel assembly so the front of the wheels
are in line with the counterweight, and sew in place, stitching
wherever wheels touch bonnet or counterweight. Sew axle in
place to underside of bonnet assembly. Again, make sure
wheels are the right way round (See Page 12)
Mirrors (Make 2)
Photo 40
Beacon
Place a small ball of fibrefill into beacon and stitch onto cab
roof
Headlights (Make 2)
With silver, make a magic ring of 10
sc, pull tight, ss to join and FO
Join in black and ss BLO in each st, ss
to join and FO*