WHITE BROTHERS E-SERIES MANUAL

HONDA XR600R (‘85-’87, ‘91-’98) & XR650L(‘93-’98)

INTRO

Thank you for purchasing White Brothers revolutionary E-Series exhaust system. A system so uniquely advanced, that
we have patented the shape and technology. Through years of being the leader in four stroke performance products, we
have come to know what you want: increased performance, innovative design, easy installation, technical support, and
most importantly, value for the dollar. The new E-Series is the cumulation of all these criteria, and much more.

Not only is the new E-Series exhaust systems available for most popular Offroad bikes and 4 wheelers, but also for
Sportbikes, Harley-Davidsons, Cruiser, Snowmobiles, and even Automotive applications! Give us a call for specific applications.

Unlike many other exhaust system manufactures, all E-Series exhaust systems are developed exclusively on the WB in-
house Dynojet dyno. After development for maximum horsepower and torque, they are painstakingly fitted to perfection
for easy, no hassle installation. Then, and only then, are they test ridden under the most extreme conditions, by some of
the most fearsome test riders on the planet. These are the same riders that thrash the OEM test bikes for the major
magazines. We do this to determine if dyno performance and track performance are perfectly matched. Bottom line,
you get products that have been thoroughly put to the test.

The overall design of the system from a styling standpoint was extremely important to us. The E-Series silencer body,
discs, and end cap, being an ELLIPTICAL SHAPE, give a much improved fit to the motorcycle. Even the end cap, that
actually has no exhaust outlet hole in it, was thoroughly thought-out to give you an esthetic appeal. The entire unit provides
better clearance, more aerodynamic shape, better flow, and most importantly, more horsepower than conventional exhaust
systems.

Another innovative feature is that we use stainless steel, aluminum, carbon fiber, and/or titanium components
through-out. Our stainless steel is 304 series; virtually impervious to rust or corrosion, and you never have to worry about
plating or paint flaking off. Our aluminum silencer bodies are made from 6063 extrusion. Our aluminum specific fit
mounting brackets are manufactured by the extrusion process, then CNC’d to perfection. Our carbon fiber silencer bodies
are built to standards unheard of previously (but that’s our secret) and in a four twill pattern. Our titanium head pipes are
from commercially pure stock normally reserved for the aircraft industry. Only the finest, most exotic materials for such a
revolutionary new product are being utilized.
 FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
QUESTION: Why doesn’t the end cap have a hole
ANSWER: The end cap has no hole because the exhaust exits through a precise gap in the E-Series diffuser discs.
The E-Series Discs create a suction that extracts spent exhaust gases from the pipe thus
creating a cleaner, hotter burn on the next compression stroke. In addition, exiting the
exhaust through the discs, and not an open hole, enables the E-Series to be a U.S.F..S.
approved spark arrestor.
QUESTION: Can I run a open end cap?
ANSWER: Yes, but you will actually lose horsepower and torque. For example, on the Yamaha YZ400F, the
E-Series loses over 2 horsepower on the dyno with the end cap & discs removed! You will also lose the
ability to adjust powerband, sound levels and jetting; as well, the system will no longer be a U.S.F..S.
approved spark arrestor. If you choose to run an open end cap, simply remove the blank disc and bolt
the end cap back on.
QUESTION: Do I have to run the E-Series Discs?
ANSWER: Yes, but only if you want maximum horsepower, maximum adjustability, and a U.S.F..S.
approved spark arrestor.
QUESTION: What is the minimum/maximum number of E-Series Discs I can run?
ANSWER: The minimum number of Discs you should use is 4. This will still be flowing the equivalent of a
straight through one inch hole, normally still much more than an OEM system. The maximum number
depends on the diameter of the core. In most cases, this will be somewhere between 18 & 28. Most sys-
tems utilizing a 2” core will make maximum horsepower with 7 to 12 E-Series Discs. It is very important
to remember that more Discs do not necessarily mean more horsepower. Every engine/exhaust system
has its “sweet spot”. See your individual dyno chart for the best combination to begin with.
QUESTION: Do I need to re-jet?
ANSWER: No. The E-Series is designed to work with stock jetting, while increasing horsepower. If maximum
horsepower via additional modifications such as aftermarket air filters, pistons, cams etc is your desire,
rejetting may be required. Refer to the tuning guide for additional information or contact our
Carburetion or R&D departments for assistance.

HOW THE E-SERIES DIFFUSER DISCS WORK WITH YOUR ENGINE

As a 4 stroke engine enters the exhaust phase, the piston moves upward, and the exhaust valve opens as spent gases
flow into the exhaust pipe making room for fresh fuel. There is however a quantity of unburned gases that remain in the
combustion chamber. It is at this instant, when both intake valves and exhaust valves open, that a properly designed
exhaust system can help scavenge as much of the residual gas as possible. The more efficient the scavenging, the less
diluted the incoming fuel-air mixture will be.

As the exhaust valves open, a shock wave is generated which travels down the pipe. When it reaches the end of the
pipe, negative pulse is reflected in the reverse direction. If the length of pipe is adjusted so that the suction wave arrives
back at the exhaust valve just before it closes, a vacuum is created, allowing the cylinder to be charged with a purer mix-
ture. The inertia in one moving exhaust packet assists the flow of the next charge. A purer mixture can now enter each
cylinder, resulting in stronger explosions and more power.

Essentially, this type of tuning produces an increase in power over a relatively small RPM range. The suction wave pro-
duced is a combination of high energy and short duration. A wider powerband can be created with the use of a diffuser.
There are two types of diffusers on motorcycles; Conical and Radial. A Conical diffuser is commonly called a megaphone
(or S-Bend/Tail pipe in some cases). A radial diffuser is the E-Series Disc. Basically, a diffuser creates suction waves with
a lower energy peak and longer duration. A simple way of understanding the process is thinking of a diffuser as creating
a continual series of suction waves, providing effective cylinder scavenging over a much wider RPM range.

So how does a megaphone differ from the E-Series Discs? They both cause a suction. They both create diffusion as
well as static & dynamic pressure. They both work on the “Bernoulli Equation” affect, relating total flow of energy being
made up of two components (static & dynamic pressure) and is a constant. In other words, the total power or energy
stored in the flow is the same at every point. As one component changes, the other changes the opposite amount to keep
the total the same. So as the flow area decreases, the velocity must increase (and vice/versa). A carburetor “venturi” is a
good example. At the throat of the venturi, the area is smaller and the velocity is greater than at the inlet or outlet.
Consequently, the static pressure at the throat is lower and creates a suction. When a megaphone is added to a straight
pipe, the final exit velocity where the exhaust enters the atmosphere is reduced because the exit flow area is now larger. In
the megaphone inlet, where velocity is greater, static pressure must be lower than at the exit. Since the exit pressure is
atmospheric, the static pressure at the inlet is below atmospheric. Below atmospheric pressure means that there is now a
suction at the end of the straight pipe when the megaphone is added. The E-Series Diffuser Discs create the same effect
as a megaphone, with the added benefit of being easily and readily tunable, as well as dispersing the sound level over a
broader area. Like changing megaphone lengths and diameters, the E-Series Discs allow you to adjust for Power, Sound,
and Jetting levels, only now you can do it in minutes.

1
 GENERAL TUNING GUIDE
Unless otherwise noted, it is highly recommended that you do not change the jetting after bolting on your new E-Series
until you first try it with the standard and/or existing jetting, or the jetting that is noted in the instructions for your spe-
cific model. The E-Series Discs are designed to maximize flow without necessarily adding fuel (changing jetting). So many
elements affect jetting such as altitude, weather conditions, engine and/or carburetor condition and cam timing etc. Even
different riders will affect this. For instance, a novice who rides at lower throttle settings may notice more changes with
the pilot and/or needle circuit. A professional using maximum throttle may not notice changes as much on the pilot
and/or needle circuit, but will only be concerned with how it carburates on the main jet. Again, first bolt on the system
and try it before making any changes.

Bolt the system on with the number of E-Series Discs supplied in the kit, then go out and ride it. Note the power and
how it carburates compared to stock exhaust system. We have many cases where actually using less discs, increased the
horsepower significantly. Your individual dyno chart for your model will show you the best overall combination to use.

All things being equal and in good working condition, a lean condition will be noted as a hesitation, increased tem-
perature, loss of power and(or) back firing/popping on deceleration. A rich condition will be sluggish performance, black
smoke, fouled spark plugs and(or) increased fuel consumption. Altering the number of E-Series Discs can improve and
solve most of these conditions. When you understand how they work in conjunction with each other, tuning becomes a
very simple procedure.

In the simplest form, increasing or decreasing the number of E-Series Discs basically increases and decreases the size
of the outlet hole. Adding Discs increases the outlet hole size. Subtracting Discs decreases the outlet hole size. In most
cases, 4 Discs will equal the flow of a stock exhaust system. Equally, 28 Discs is the maximum number of Discs (provided
the silencer core is large enough to handle this amount of flow). The core size will also affect the number of Discs you are
able to fully utilize. The chart below will provide you an example of how the Discs relate to flow/core size. You can note
the core size in your particular E-Series by removing the End Cap/Disc assembly and measuring across the O.D.of the per-
forated core. Most E-Series come with a 2.0” round or 2.25” elliptical core.

Number of Cubic Inches of

Discs Flow (size of hole/or core
straight through)

4 .96
8 1.36
12 1.66
16 1.92
18 2.03
24 2.35
28 2.54

By adding E-Series Discs, you are increasing the outlet area and thereby increasing: the powerband for more top-end
power, the sound level and leaning out the carburetion. By subtracting E-Series Discs, you are decreasing: the outlet area
and thereby decreasing the powerband for more bottom end or torque, the sound level and enriching the carburetion.

Remember, using more or less E-Series Discs does not necessarily equate to an increase or decrease in horsepower.
Every engine has its “sweet spot”. And of course every person has their preferred powerband preference. Your new E-Series
system has been supplied with enough Discs for an optimum overall powerband response, sound level, and stock jetting.
Additional Discs are available to provide you an even broader choice of tunability.

While it is difficult to determine without a dyno and EGA machine, the exact power increase and/or jetting for each
machine , the dyno graph and jetting specifications provided within this manual will give you a good base. Please contact
our Carburetion and/or R&D departments with any questions you may have. All you need do is tell us what it is doing or
not doing. We can then tell you what to do to correct it. Above all, do not be afraid to experiment with the Discs. Your new
E-Series is fully tuneable. Adding and/or removing Discs can and does make a huge difference!

2
 CARBURETOR CIRCUITS & THROTTLE POSITIONS
While tuning and/or diagnosing any glitches in your powerband that may arise, the following will provide you with a basic
understanding of which circuits are affected during a particular throttle position. In most cases, adjusting the number of E-
Series Discs will improve and/or fix most circuit problems. In case additional adjustments are required, this section will help
you locate and solve the problem. It is important to remember that adjusting carburetion should only be attempted on an
engine in good running condition that is thoroughly up to operating temperature. Do not make adjustments all at once, and
most importantly, do not make adjustments until first trying the exhaust system with the existing jetting. Then trying to adjust
by varying the number of E-Series Discs. Find the affected throttle position (circuit) and work on that area only. Doing one step
at a time will ensure optimum performance and smooth efficient operation.

Pilot Jet - Up to 1/4 throttle - Controls fuel flow through the idle circuit - Mixture is adjusted by means of the mixture screw -
There are two types of mixture screws - Fuel Screws and Air Screws ]
- A Fuel Screw, as the name implies, meters fuel - A Fuel Screw will be located on the engine side of the throttle valve, usually
on the bottom of the carb - Turn in to lean mixture - Turn out to richen mixture - The engine should have a smooth, steady
idle with the screw between 1/4 and 3-1/2 turns out from fully bottomed (gently!) - If the engine requires more than three
turns out, the pilot jet may be too lean - If it requires less than 1/4 turn, it may be too rich.
- An Air Screw meters air - An Air Screw will be located on the air cleaner side of the throttle valve, usually on the right or left
side - Turn in to richen mixture - Turn out to lean mixture - The engine should have a smooth, steady idle with the screw
between 1/2 and 2-1/2 turns out from fully bottomed - If the engine requires more than 2-1/2 turns out, the pilot jet may be
too rich - If it requires less than 1/2 turn, it may be too lean.
Symptoms and/or adjustment - With the idle at approximately 1000 rpm, turn the air screw mixture in slowly until the idle
slows or becomes erratic, then begin turning the screw back out until it again becomes erratic. Count the number of turns in
between the two positions. Set the position of the air screw between these two conditions, which should also be your smoothest
idle . Finally, adjust the idle screw if necessary to approximately 1000 rpm again.

Jet Needle - from 1/8th to 3/4” throttle - Controls fuel flow through needle jet - Raising or lowering the clip location on the
grooves, richens or leans fuel flow, as well as determines at what throttle position the tapered part of the needle is to be raised
out of the needle jet - Raising the needle (lowering the clip) richens the mixture - Lowering the needle (raising the clip) leans
the mixture.
Symptoms and/or adjustment - Accelerate to 1/2 to 3/4 throttle, preferably in top gear. If acceleration seems weak, soft or
flat, or the engine responds slow when the throttle is quickly
opened, the mixture is too lean. Lower the needle clip one position
to raise the needle. Conversely, if acceleration is crisp and strong,
but hesitates or shutters as the throttle is closed from 3/4 to 1/2, the
mixture is too rich. Raise the clip one position to lower the needle.
The optimum setting will be crisp acceleration, with no load up
(rich) as the throttle is backed off.

Main Jet - from 3/4 to full throttle - Controls fuel flow as the jet
needle is lifted far enough out of the needle jet. Until this point
(throttle position), the main jet has no effect on mixture strength. A
larger # jet richens the mixture - A smaller # jet leans the mixture.
Symptoms and/or adjustment - The main jet is the last jet you
deal with and by far the easiest to diagnose. You will only change the
main jet if a problem exists at 3/4 to full throttle. Any other prob-
lems in the carburetion are not affected by the main jet. The two eas-
iest ways to find the optimum setting are:
1) Set-up an area approximately 50 to 100 yards long. Have
someone time you through this area. As you pass the entry, open the
throttle fully (on the main jet circuit) and motor through this area.
Essentially, the jet size that provides the least amount of time to run
through this, is the correct main jet.
2) Starting with a fresh set of spark plugs that have been run for
at least a few miles to gain some color to them, run the engine
(under a load) for approximately a minute or so at 3/4 to full throt-
tle. Then, in a safe area, pull in the clutch, hit the kill switch, and
leave the throttle in its wide open position; all at the same time and
coast to a stop. Then remove the spark plug and inspect its condi-
tion/color. The porcelain should be a reasonably clean color/condi-
tion, light gray to brown is good. If the plug is black and/or sooty,
the main jet is too rich (big) and you should go down in size to a
smaller number. If the plug is white, with no apparent change in
color from brand new, and the engine appears to be running hotter
than normal, it may be lean (small). You need to go up in size to a
larger number.

3
 WB E-SERIES EXHAUST ACCESSORIES & REPLACEMENT PARTS

Description Part number

Complete End Cap Assembly, Elliptical 06-910

Complete End Cap Assembly, Turn Down 06-915
End Cap, Elliptical 06-920
End Cap, Turn Down 06-921
End Cap Screws (6, holds up to 18 Discs) 06-926
End Cap Screws (6, holds up to 28 Discs) 06-927
Exhaust Disc Shield (covers inner 120O of Discs) 06-925 *8:00 - 12:00 position
End caps
Exhaust Disc Shield (covers inner 180O of Discs) 06-935 *6:00 - 12:00 position
Exhaust Disc Shield (covers top 180O of Discs) 06-936 *9:00 - 3:00 position
Exhaust Disc Shield (covers 360O of Discs) 06-937 *12:00 - 12:00 position
E-Series Disc 6 pack 06-922
E-Series Disc 12 pack 06-923
Blank Disc (no opening for Spark Arrestor) 06-924
Silencer Rivets (6) 06-928
Silencer Core Button-head Screws (4) 06-929
Silencer Core, S-Bend Series 06-940
Silencer Core, Meg Series 06-945
Silencer Repack Cartridge 68-002
T-Bolt Clamps, Stainless Steel 1.5” 01-150
Carbon Fiber Silencer
1.75” 01-175C
2.0” 01-200
2.25” 01-225C
2.5” 01-250C
Anti-Seize/High Temp Lube, 1cc tube 06-960
E-Series Name Plate 06-965
Replacement Shell - Carbon Fiber Silencer 06-970
Replacement Shell - Aluminum Silencer 06-980
Mounting Bracket, Extruded/CNC 05-0200

8-12 position 6-12 position

Aluminum Silencer

Mounting Bracket, Extruded/CNC

9-3 position 12-12 position

Silencer Repack Cartridge

4
 DYNO GRAPH FOR HONDA XR650L

DYNORUN.037 E-SERIES MEG 12 D.JE PSTN, AR CAM,41F/S

DYNORUN.001 AS RECEIVED STOCK 98 650L PUMP FUEL

Dynojet Research Inc.

60

50

40

DYNORUN .037 Max POWER=50.6

30
DYNORUN .001 Max POWER=34.6

20

10

-10
2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0 4.5 5.0 5.5 6.0 6.5 7.0 7.5 8.0 8.5 9.0

This particular 1998 model ran best when using a range of 6 - 15 E-Series Discs. The system(s) are pro-
vided with 12 Discs, which offers an excellent base between power, sound, and running the stock jetting.
The dyno graph shows an all stock 49 state bike with stock exhaust. We then installed a JE 10.5:1 piston
(stock bore), WB All-Around Camshaft, 41mm Flat side Mikuni Carb, ported the cylinder head and installed
a Pro Meg E-Series Exhaust. As you can see, the power increase was incredible (32% on top).

On a stock engine, you can expect a 3 - 4 horsepower increase with the S-Bend Series and a 5 - 7 horse-
power increase with the Pro Meg Series. Both have superior increases over stock.

The stock jetting (stock carb) worked fine with either exhaust system. When using a aftermarket air filter
(such as WB Power Filter) you may need to richen the air/fuel screw and also go up one size on the main jet

5
 E-SERIES INSTALLATION
PRO MEG AND/OR S-BEND MODELS
HONDA XR600R (‘85-’87, ‘91-’98)
XR650L (‘93-’98)
Part numbers covered in this installation sheet are: 05-030, 05-070, 05-050, 05-153

STOCK SYSTEM REMOVAL

Be sure engine/exhaust is cool before removing and/or attempting to remove.

1) Remove/loosen clamp at junction of headpipe/silencer section.

2) Remove side cover and bolts securing silencer to frame.
3) Slide assembly off of headpipe.

E-SERIES INSTALLATION

1) Loosen headpipe exhaust flange bolts/nuts so it can be adjusted slightly if necessary during installation
of E-Series. *NOTE; If installing WB large diameter performance headpipe, simply remove stock
headpipe and install. Be sure to replace exhaust port gaskets with new ones if necessary.
2) Slide new T-bolt clamp (provided) onto inlet section of S-Bend/Meg, along with inserting WB
aluminum gasket (provided) into inlet section (this is only necessary if using stock headpipe).
NOTE: If using the WB large diameter performance headpipe, you do not use the gasket. Install onto
headpipe, adjusting as necessary. Install stock bolt into frame standoff mount. NOTE: It is recommended
that you retain the stock metal heat shield that protects the brake line/master cylinder from excessive
heat. Simply install between the frame standoff (just like stock system). Do not tighten.
3) S-BEND MODELS - Install the 2 conical/beveled spacers (provided) into the silencer mounting bracket
(beveled ends go into bracket), along with aluminum spacer and new bolt/washer. The spacer goes
on the backside (frame side) of the bracket/beveled spacer assembly. Do not tighten.
4) PRO MEG MODELS - Remove rear fender bolt from right side (6mm bolt). Install aluminum spacer
(provided) into rear fender mount hole, line up bracket, and secure with bolt/washer (provided). Do
not tighten.
5) Starting at the front, and adjusting as necessary for proper clearance and fit, tighten headpipe flange
nuts, standoff frame bolt, T-Bolt clamp(s), silencer mounting bolt. Tighten securely and re-check
periodically.

INSTALLING E-SERIES DIFFUSER DISCS

Referring to the dyno chart provided for guidance, choose the number of discs best suited to begin with.
It is very important to always install the blank disc (the one without the hole) on as the last disc before the end
cap. Place a small amount of the 1cc tube of high temp lube (provided) onto the threads of the 6 socket head
cap screws (provided). Install the entire assembly onto the core/silencer base and snug the screws down.
Tighten securely in cross pattern with the 4mm hex key wrench (provided). When tightened securely, the
discs provide a spring back affect, similar to a lock washer. Do not over tighten. Check periodically.
Correct direction of discs
When adding or removing discs, always be sure to use a
small amount of high temp lube on the screws to
ensure that the threads will not gall or seize.

DING
NT PEN
PATE

6
 MAINTAINANCE
To clean the aluminum and/or stainless steel components, simply use soap & water. For blemishes and/or discol-
oration, simply use a fine scotch-brite pad to touch up these areas.

For Carbon Fiber components, again use soap and water to clean. A light coating of a good automotive wax will help
dirt/mud slide off easier the next time around.

After washing, towel off the system and start your engine and warm thoroughly to operating temperature to remove all
condensation and/or water.

The silencer packing cartridge is an exclusive blend of synthetics and steel from White Brothers. It will provide you
with long life and easy maintenance. To repack the silencer, simply remove the button head screws securing the diffuser
disc base (where the discs sit) and the entire assembly will slide out. Then simply inspect the condition of the packing
material and determine if a new cartridge is needed. If the material is worn out, simply order a new cartridge (WB # 06-
930) and install per the instructions supplied. Insert the entire assembly back into the silencer shell and you are done. It’s
never been simpler to repack a silencer!

For maximum sound intenuation and long life of your silencer shell, we highly recommend that you check the pack-
ing material in aluminum silencers at a minimum of 2 month intervals. For carbon fiber silencers, check at 1 month inter-
vals. Though the carbon shell is extremely strong and durable, extreme heat caused by a dissipated packing cartridge can
cause it to be damaged.

Keep in mind that the life of your silencer packing can vary greatly by your riding conditions and engine state-of-tune.
Check often at first. This will then provide you a gauge for future maintenance intervals.

LIMITED WARRANTY
White Brothers warrants its E-Series aluminum silencers and stainless steel megaphones/s-bends/headpipes for a period of one year against workmanship and material failure from date
of purchase and to the original owner. Carbon fiber silencers and titanium headpipes are limited to a period of ninety days.
Under the terms of said warranty, White Brothers will repair or replace the defective component at their discretion. White Brothers does not pay for the cost of removal or reinstallation of
the affected unit from any vehicle or delivery and pick up of the unit. Removal/reinstallation costs are the sole responsibility of the original owner. To obtain service under this warranty, the
original purchaser must contact White Brothers customer service/warranty department for return number authorization prior to returning said unit. You must include a copy of original the sales
receipt and/or warranty registration tag.
White Brothers has made every effort to improve cornering clearance; however, due to the design and space limitations on some motorcycles (center stand, oil filter, oil pan, ect.), ground
clearance and corner clearance may not be improved and in some cases may be reduced. Be sure to follow proper installation instructions.
White Brothers shall not be responsible for any consequential, special or incidental damages of any nature, including, but not limited to the loss of the vehicle on which the unit was
installed and the cost of obtaining another substitute exhaust system.
This warranty is valid only if the proper part number was installed in accordance with the proper model vehicle and operated and maintained within reasonable guidelines. This warranty
is not valid if the system is modified or altered, installed improperly, dropped/crashed, or serviced by anyone other White Brothers.

WHITE BROTHERS, 24845 CORBIT PLACE, YORBA LINDA, CA 92887

PHONE 714-692-3404 - FAX 714-692-3409