Aspirazione:subaru legacy-impreza 2200 turbo 1990

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Fundamentally, increasing fuel flow means installing larger jets in the carburetor.
Sounds simple, doesn't it? Trust me, I've been doing it now for more than 30 years,
and it really is that straightforward.

Picking the right jet, now that's the hard part. Fortunately that element of the
job has been made much easier by the proliferation of jet kits now available. These
kits contain all of the bits and pieces you'll need plus detailed instructions, and
they are available to fit nearly every current and not-so-current motorcycle I can
think of. But this would be a damn short article if we left it at that.

Rather than just show you how to install a jet kit, let me walk you through the
basic steps used to jet a bike from scratch. Even though the kits greatly shortcut
the jetting process, individual circumstances may dictate some fine-tuning from
bike to bike. If you know how to evaluate jetting, you'll know what to look for and
what changes need to be made. Since the most popular carburetor in use is the
variable-venturi, slide-type carburetor, that's the model we'll use. For the sake
of convention we'll assume you have either installed a jet kit and want to make
sure the jetting is spot-on or you suspect some jetting changes need to be made.

Presumably you already have some fundamental understanding of a carburetor's

internal workings. If you don't, I suggest you bone up on a little theory first.
Mr. Bernoulli was a pretty bright guy, and his insights are well worth discovering.

IT JUST DOES NOT RUN RIGHT

Deciding where the problem is located is the first step. One of the more common
mistakes the novice tuner makes is trying to jet based on engine rpm. Throttle
position dictates which carburetor circuit is being used at the time, so jetting is
always predicated by throttle position, never rpm.

Experienced tuners and riders are pretty good at determining which carburetor
circuit is at fault.
If you're new to this, a visual aid may be very helpful.
A throttle index will show you exactly which circuit is in play at any given time.

Your markings should indicate 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and wide-open throttle, although the
last is usually pretty obvious, as is the closed position.

Too often a carburetor jetting chart seems to indicate a very clear delineation
among the effects of the various jets and circuits. There isn't; in fact, there is
always some overlap, and bear in mind that carburetor fuel-delivery circuits are
cumulative. In other words, even when we're running wide open on the main jet, the
pilot jet is still supplying some fuel. For this reason we start by addressing the
pilot jet first and the main jet last.

PILOT CIRCUIT ; 0 TO 1/4 THROTTLE

Start by bringing the engine up to operating temperature. Open the throttle

slightly. Does the engine pick up speed smoothly? If it doesn't, the fuel-mixture
screw may be out of adjustment or the pilot jet may be either too small or too
large. To determine the pilot screw setting, adjust the idle-speed screw so that
the engine is idling slightly fast, somewhere between 10 and 20 percent above the
recommended idle speed. Using either the manufacturer's or the jet kit's
recommended pilot screw setting as a starting point, turn the fuel screw left or
right between 1/4 and 1/2 of a turn. Select the screw position where the engine
speed increase is the greatest. Readjust the idle speed to the correct level.

Next, take the bike for a ride, preferably on a relatively quiet, straight section
of road. Using your throttle index, run the bike at 1/4 throttle. If the pilot
jetting is correct, the engine should run smoothly, and it should be easy to
maintain a constant speed without varying the throttle position.
If the bike surges or hunts, the pilot jet is probably too small (lean).
Other indications that the pilot circuit is lean are popping or spitting through
the carburetor when the throttle is opened and popping or backfiring through the
exhaust when the throttle is shut. If the pilot circuit is rich, the engine will
have a rough idle or may not return to idle without "blipping" the throttle. You
may also notice a distinct smell of raw fuel and some eye irritation from the
exhaust.

LOW TO HIGH SPEED TRANSITION; 1/4 to 3/8 THROTTLE

Although the throttle cutaway plays a significant role between 1/4 and 3/8
throttle, it is seldom changed when rejetting a bike, particularly a cruiser,
here's why.
Basically the only time the cutaway needs changing is when the transition from the
low-speed fuel circuit (pilot jet) to the high-speed circuit [needle(stright
diameter,clip position,cone), and main jet] gets seriously out of whack.

MEDIUM THROTTLE OPENING; 1/4 to 3/4 THROTTLE

The fuel delivery at this stage is controlled by the needle and the slow jet screw.

Once a time all carburetors came with adjustable jet needles screw. Once the smog
Nazis got involved, fixed-position needles became the standard. Jet kits will
usually include new needles that can be raised (to richen mixture) or lowered (to
make it leaner) to suit or, less often, shims to change the height of your stock
needles.

To evaluate the needle/needle-jet performance, run the motorcycle in second or

third gear. Roll the throttle on from 1/4 to 1/2 throttle only. The engine should
accelerate cleanly without sputtering or bogging. If so, you're all done with the
midrange; if it doesn't, you'll need to do some experimenting to determine if the
needle position is too rich or too lean. Assuming you've installed adjustable
needles from the kit, begin your experiments by trying some alternative needle-clip
positions, perhaps a step richer to begin with.
If that makes the situation worse, try a step leaner. If the jetting is stock and
problems crop up, it's time to order the appropriate jet kit.

TOP END; 3/4 TO WIDE OPEN

At this stage of the game, the majority of the fuel flow is controlled by the main
jet (remember some fuel is still flowing through the pilot jet). The time-honored
method of determining main-jet size is via a plug chop. If you've never done one, a
plug chop is pretty simple. Start with new spark plugs. Run the bike flat out (full
throttle), in as high a gear as possible, for eight to 10 seconds (don't hold the
bike at the rev limiter, as it'll give you a false reading). Without cutting the
throttle or slowing down, simultaneously pull in the clutch and hit the kill
switch. Coast the bike, with the clutch still in, onto the shoulder and remove the
plug(s). The plug insulator should be tan to grayish-white. A white plug indicates
a lean mixture; a dark gray or black one means it's rich. You then select the main-
jet size accordingly.

Unfortunately, plug chops present a few problems. Some bikes require an

exstraordinary amount of work to remove the plugs, or at least more than you want
to do on the side of the road with a smoking-hot bike.

The alternative, and the method I personally prefer, is to use a dyno. It's
certainly a lot easier and arguably more accurate, but it may not be convenient.

IS IT LEAN OR RICH?

One of the reasons I'm so stoked about jet kits is because they remove 95% of the
guesswork. Be that as it may, even the best kits require some fine-tuning.
Essentially a jetting problem can always be reduced to one of two choices: Is it
lean or is it rich?

To determine if the bike is lean (too little fuel for the amount of air reaching
the engine through the carburetor) at any given throttle opening, partially cover
the air-filter intake with a piece of duct tape; if the carburetion improves, it's
running lean. If you suspect the bike is running rich (too much fuel in the air-
fuel mixture)), remove the airbox top or the air cleaner element; if the changes
are for the better, the bike was running too rich.

If your bike is equipped with a manual fuel shut-off (or you're clever enough to
disconnect and plug the fuel lines), take the bike for a ride with the fuel turned
off. If it runs worse as the float bowl drains, it's lean. If it gets better, it's
rich.

Troubleshooting

A lean condition is the end result of too little fuel and too much air. Slightly
lean conditions create drivability problems. Worst-case scenario: Lean conditions
can and do destroy engines. Holes in the pistons, burnt valves and trashed main
bearings are the direct result of lean mixtures.

Rich mixtures are the end result of too much fuel and too little air. Rich mixtures
waste fuel, contribute to carbon buildup and pollute the air.

TYPICAL LEAN CONDITION:

- Poor acceleration; the engine feels flat.

- The engine won't respond when the throttle is snapped open, but it picks up speed
as the throttle is closed. (A too-large main jet also mimics this symptom.)

- The engine runs hot, knocks, pings and overheats.

- The engine surges or hunts when cruising at partial-throttle.

- Popping or spitting through the carb occurs when the throttle is opened. Or
popping and spitting occurs through the pipe on deceleration with a closed
throttle.

- The engine runs better in warm weather, worse in cool.

- Performance gets worse when the air filter is removed.

TYPICAL RICH CONDITION

- Engine acceleration is flat and uneven and loses that "crisp" feel.

- The engine "eight-strokes" as it loads up and skips combustion cycles.

- The engine's idle is rough or lumpy, and the engine won't return to idle without
"blipping" the throttle.

- The throttle needs to be open continuously to maintain acceleration.

- Black, sooty plugs, a sooty exhaust pipe and black smoke from the tailpipe that
stinks of unburned fuel.

- Poor fuel economy.

- The engine works better when cold. Performance falls off as it warms up or the
ambient temperature rises.

- Engine performance improves when the air cleaner is removed.