Analysis of Tech – Pack

Introduction
Tech pack is an instruction guide for procedure of the garment manufacturing. This is a
graphical and written document which indicates the design specification, fit specification,
procedure for manufacturing the garment, measurement and sizing of the garment. Buyer
communicates the tech-pack with production merchandiser in order to get the desired outcome
with the desired quality and aesthetics. The provision is made in tech-pack to control the quality
of the product throughout the production procedure.

Specification sheets provide important details to ensure the correct execution of garment
patterns into finished garments. It helps to produce accurate samples, which improves
turnaround time and simplifies communication during all stages of manufacturing and quality
control. Tech pack includes detailed technical diagrams, construction notes, finished garment
measurements, fabric yields and material and trim details. It is normally tailored in terms of
the format and information provided to suit the company's needs.

Tech-pack provides base for communication to everyone related to production purpose by

providing the information about the measurements and technical design, product development
by providing the information about the silhouettes and measurements etc. For quality
department it provides the point of measurement and seam specification, fit specification.

Once the tech-pack for any style is frozen, the production department must be able to go ahead
with the manufacturing process without having to refer to the designer for any aspect of
production. The merchandisers are thus able to go ahead and ensure that the required material
as per the tech-pack is made available to the production department, in the right quantities at
the right time.

The marketing department can use this document in their presentation, particularly to the large
format stores and their key customers. The preparation of a tech-pack and using it to manage
and co-ordinate various activities in production brings in efficiency within the company as,
various departments refer to the common document for discussion or carrying out any activity.

Generally, the buyer gives tech-pack to merchandiser or manufacturer does have the in-house
capacity of design and product development, then tech-pack is prepared by design and technical
team and approved by buyer. It is the most important communication tool for the garment
manufacturer.

Importance of tech-pack

• Tech-pack is important from merchandiser point of view as in absence of tech-pack

merchandiser will be clueless for order processing.

• Tech-pack provides the direction for manufacturing of the particular style.

• Tech-pack provides guidance to quality department for judgement of quality of the

garment.

• It makes the process smoother for both production as well as quality department.

• Buyer specifies all aspect of garment manufacturing like stitch and seam specification,
size and garment construction details, graphic placemen. With tech-pack manufacturer
can understands the buyer’s expectation with tech-pack.
 • Tech-pack is designed in such a way that it eliminates many problems before they come
into existence.
• With tech pack sampling process will be smoother as; samples are designs according to
tech-pack hence capacity of manufacturer will test with tech-pack.
• If the information in the tech-pack is not proper or is not understandable then it will
lead to poor quality of the garment which will affect the sales of the buyer directly.
• Tech-pack contains procedures, forms, approval schedules, and responsibilities
required of sourcing partners.
• If tech-pack is applied throughout value chain of the apparels effectively, then there
will be success to everyone in the value chain.
• If it communicates poorly then, it is very difficult to convert designers’ perception into
actual 3D format.

Contents of tech-pack

• Measurement sheet
• Point of measurement
• Garment technical design or flat
sketch • Testing methods

• Fabric specification • Graphic specification

• Colour specification • Graphic placement

• Trim specification • Colour combo

• Embroidery design scan or sample • Style no.

• Embroidery placement • Other technical data related to

garment construction.
• Seam and stitch specification and
placement

Along with tech-pack buyer provides the following things which depend upon buyer and
situations:

• Sample of the garment developed by buyer for reference (depends upon buyer)

• Scan copy of the printed fabric

• Trim sample (depends upon buyer)

• Hard pattern

• Soft copy of pattern

Merchandisers perspective of tech-pack

Tech-pack is the most important aspect of the any export order. Production merchandiser
must know how to see and what to see in the tech pack. The important aspects of the tech-
pack can be given as

• Style no.
From the merchandisers’ point of view style no. is very important. The style number is a unique
identifier for the merchandise, and it may be numeric or alpha-numeric. Style number also
helps to indicate the classification or product group to which the product belongs and the
season. Style no. refers and sends by the buyer which is one of the most effective ways of
communication in apparel merchandising. Style no. indicates the style, year, season, colour and
one specific reference no. which show the specific style. The main significance of style no. is,
every time it is not necessary to describe the whole garment while writing the mail or telephonic
conversation. Only style no. will serve the purpose of both buyer and merchandiser. E.g.,
MH44SP 1101 depicts MH as the brand name — Mother Hood, SP is the spring Season, 44
will be garment size and 1101 is the identification number for the style.

• Fabric specifications:
Fabric specification is an important aspect from production merchandiser. As the fabric
specification contains EPI, PPI, Yarn count, fibre content, blend specification, design of the
fabric, GSM, width may be given by buyer or suggested by production merchandiser with the
help of sourcing department and supplier. Merchandiser must give immediate reply to buyer if
buyer does not specify width of the fabric. Colour combination and shade card is sent by buyer
separately or along with the tech-pack for colour development. Along with this information
additionally buyer may provide swatch of the fabric in, scan of the print design depending upon
the style and situation. The buyer also specifies the testing methods of fabric like fastness
properties, strength measurement etc.

• Trim specification
Trim specification has the particulars about all the trims, which may include zippers, buttons,
thread, lace and other trims, interfacings, and labels used in the product. The trim specks
contain colour of button, size, raw material etc. Labels specifications like woven with a unique
design of jacquard or printed. For thread, the spec includes the twist, colour, structure, fibre
content, source, and price of the thread. For zipper, type of zipper, length, raw material, colour
fastness properties requirements. For interfacing raw material, GSM, shrinkage
requirements etc. are the criteria. Trim specifications are equally important as to develop the
samples.

• Sewing specification/ production procedure

The sewing specs are of primary concern of the product manufacturers; the sew spec contains
detailed information about the stitches, seams, and order of assembly for the product. The
merchandiser sees the stitch class, stitch length, and seam class and SPI specified by the buyer
and gives the information to IE department to decide the operational break down and thread
consumption pre garment. Along with that Pictures, either 2D or 3D, of the stitches and seams
are provided can further illuminate the communication among merchandiser, plant manager,
and sewing operator. In addition to the basic stitch and seam information, the sew spec may
include detailed descriptions or pictures about specific design areas on the product. For
example, the back pocket on blue jeans is often stitched with a pattern that is unique to the
brand of jeans. The sew spec can contain a sketch of the stitching pattern, including a count of
the stitches from corner to corner on the pocket or the embroidery on premium jeans. The
colour of the thread, the stitch length, and other information are specified to make every pocket
on every pair of jeans.

• Sizing specification
In tech pack buyer specifies the different sizes of the garment. The size-wise breakup of the
order may not be given by the buyer with the tech-pack. Size specification also contains gender
of the customer, size range, size classification etc.

• Fit specification
Size and fit specs may be considered together because of the integration of information about
these two product features; however, they are two distinctly different features. Size involves a
standardized set of dimensions for the product, whereas fit defines how the apparel product
relates to the body. Fit is how the product feels to the wearer when wearing the garment and is
often a factor not only of size classifications but of cultural forces and fashion. Fit specs include
descriptions or pictures, illustrating the placement of the product on the body, and the looseness
or tightness of the product relative to the body. The amount of ease, or the difference between
the body dimensions and the garment dimensions that is built into the product, will dictate the
fit. This ease can come from the size of the pattern pieces or from the stretch that is natural to
the fabric. What is considered a close fit for one segment of consumers may be too loose a fit
to satisfy another segment of consumers. Circumference is the first point of fit that most
consumers consider; however, lengths of sleeves, pant crotch positioning and leg lengths, and
placement of seams are also important in fit.

• Point of measurement
From merchandisers point of viewpoint of measurement is an important issue. Most of the miss
understanding is happens in this respect. When it comes to garment quality then measurements
are bound to check, hence in tech-pack buyer advise the point of measurement either in pictorial
format or in coded format. The buyer gives the instructions e.g., use the flexible measurement
tape; measurements are to be taken by keeping garment flat on the table etc. which are needed
to follow at sampling stage and at production stage as well. If a merchandiser or quality person
misses something while measurements are taken then, it will not be acceptable to buyer.

• Placement details

From a merchandiser’s point of view placement of graphics, embroidery and applique is

important. Tech-pack provides all the details about the graphics design, size, font (if
applicable), colour combinations and placement details on garments. The thread of embroidery,
colour, SPI, font (if applicable), size of design etc. are provided by tech-pack. Merchandisers
need to give instructions to its production personalities accordingly, if printing, embroidery are
outsourced from sub-vendors then, the same information should be shared with sub-vendors,
so that error free production can be possible.

• Final inspection specification

The final inspection specification ensures that the product will be packaged and delivered to
the customer as dictated by a contract agreement. Contents of final inspection specification for
apparel products include the placement of hangtags, the fold of the product, bagging or hanging
information, and packaging of the products. For apparel manufacturers, the final inspection
spec for fabric could include the size of the fabric roll, the placement of rolls within the delivery
truck, and the types of inspection information that will be delivered with the fabric rolls. The
final inspection spec may also include any information needed about finishes that are applied
to the product after it is sewn. Some of the "washes" such as stone washing or acid stripping
are done on the finished garment to develop the desired streaks or seam shading that may be
popular.

Conclusion:

Tech-pack is the most important aspect of export merchandising process. The buyer gives
detailed tech-pack; accordingly, merchandiser is expected to act. Tech-pack is a bible of the
running style, which gives all necessary information about the style. Without a tech-pack it is
impossible to move further. If there is any doubt in tech-pack, it should be communicated to
buyer immediately. Merchandisers should read the tech-pack thoroughly, the specifications
related to sampling, production, construction, fit and measurement. It is advisable that
merchandiser must understand the technicalities in tech-pack, problems related to tech-pack
should clarify at early stages of order.
 PO Sheet
Purchase order is a written document that includes specification of product, Product Price
(FOB), Total order quantity, size break-up, packing instruction and shipping address etc.
Purchase Order is known as PO.

Garment buyers and garment sourcing agents follow a standard format for purchase orders.
Each of those PO includes the above documents and includes additional information as per
buyer’s requirement to explain things in a better way. For export orders, buyers sent
specification sheets and construction details during sample development.

In the following table list of information are included those are found in a PO.

Parameters Description
Product/Style name Mention the name of your garment. Is it a T-
Shirt order or Shirts or Polo or Sweatshirt or
else?
Product description Add text that describes your style. Like Half
sleeve T-shirt, full Sleeve Shirt etc. If you
have image of the product, you can add that
image also.
Order quantity Total number of pieces you like to source
from the supplier. For uniform order you can
calculate order quantity just by counting
heads of group members. If you are a retailer,
you can decide order quantity based on your
sales forecast.
Size break-up in order You might need to source garment multiple
sizes, based on wearer. If you are going to
order college uniforms or uniforms for your
employees, you can check with the wearer
who wear what size of garment and make a
list. Send the summarized size break-up.
Fabric Details • Fabric type: For knits fabric GSM,
Single jersey etc. If your design has
different types of fabric mention
details of all fabrics.
• Fabric color: Specify color or colors
for multiple color orders.

Print and Logo design You want a design in your garment? Send the
design and logo that to be printed on the
garment. Also clearly mention the placement
of logo or print designs on the garment.
Washing Details Add washing instruction if applies to your
order.
Measurement sheet In case you develop one spec sheet, send it to
the supplier. Otherwise, you can ask supplier
to use standard measurement for your
design-based demographic.
Labeling Add what all labels you like to attach to your
garment like care labels, main label and size
label or else.
Price Agreed price that is finalized with suppliers.
 Packing details Provide folding and packing instruction.
Tags details If applies to your order you must mention
where to attach hang tags and means of
attaching hang tags. This applies for retail
orders. Suppliers normally don't design or
develop tags (price tags, hand tags). You
must develop tags and provide supplier.
Shipping Address Complete address where you want supplier
to send finished goods
Others Add what other information supplier asked
from you prior to order confirmation.

An Example of How I Ordered a T-Shirt Uniform.

I made one purchase order with the following information. And it explains everything that I
needed in our T-Shirts. For measurements I followed standard measurement chart. I didn't
have design of the T-shirt. So, I asked supplier to submit one sample and I approved that for
my order.

Product Name: Crew neck T-shirt (Half Sleeve).

Order Quantity: 200 pieces, Size: Medium only
Fabric Details: 100% cotton Single jersey 160 gsm. Neck rib – 1X2 ribs matching gsm,
Back neck tape – Self fabric
Color: Solid Blue Pantone#19-4052 TPX
Printing Details: Logo print on chest (Logo design attached in a separate sheet and send
separate image file)
Measurement (Size chart): Send a standard size chart.
Packing Instruction: Single piece packing.
Price: As confirmed in mail.