BIOFERMENTS

Making them on your farm

1 1
Author: David Hardwick at Soil Land Food
Technical Support: Gerry Gillespie, Dr Chandra Iyer at Green Microbes, Cetana
Wong
Graphic Design: ST Creative Design
Photos: Soil Land Food
Acknowledgements: Soil Land Food wishes to thank the numerous farmers
who have helped with practical tips and support on biofertilisers especially Mario
Raccanello (Tully, Qld), Wes Spencer (Kotupna, Vic), the Attard brothers (Mackay),
Fraser Pogue (Ardmona, Vic) and Bob Bright (East Feluga, Qld) who generously
shared their experience.
There are a number of simple bioferment products you
can make on the farm to improve soil condition, stimulate
plant growth and improve plant health. These include
biostimulants, biofertilisers and inoculants. This manual
has some recipes for making these on farm using simple
and effective fermenting methods.
 Contents

06
Biological products: an introduction

08
Making bioferments: the basics
12
Base Cultures
18
Compost Inoculant
20
Hydrolysates
22
Biofertilisers
5
 Biological Products:
an introduction

Biologicals: the different technologies

Over the last few decades farmers
around the world have started to apply
biological products to crops and pas-
tures. This is an emerging new area of
agronomy. In Australia a wide range of
biological products are now used by
farmers. Many of these products are
made with cultures of microbes.

There are three main methods used to

make biological products:

Aerobic Cultures
These products are made using
oxygen while culturing microbes. The
best known examples are compost tea
and aerated compost.

Fermentation Cultures
These products are made in cultures
with low or no oxygen levels. Effective
Microorganisms, fermented compost
and bioferments are examples.

Vermi-products
These are based on the products of
worms as they transform organic
materials into stable products. Worm
liquids and worm castings are two
examples.

6
 Biologicals: the types of products

The range of biological products available in Australia can be confusing. However there are
actually only four main types of biological products.

Inoculants
These are products that contain living microbes that can benefit the crop-soil system in some way.
The most well-known inoculant products are the legume inoculants, Rhizobia, a nitrogen fixing
bacteria. Legume inoculants are used to coat legume seeds before planting. By adding these
specialised bacteria to your paddock you can gain extra nitrogen into your soil.

Another example of an inoculant product is compost tea, which can contain a diverse range of
microbes. More and more commercial inoculants products are coming onto the market. Some
have a single strain of bacteria in them.
Others are multi-strain products containing
more than one microbe.

Biostimulants
These products contain non-nutrient
compounds that are known to stimulate
positively either the soil or plants. These
compounds are sometimes called plant
hormones or growth factors. They are often
used to minimise crop stress. Seaweed is
known to contain some of these compounds.
Humic Acid products are another commonly
used example of these type of products.

Biofertilisers
Fertilisers are products that contain nutrients or micronutrients for plant growth. Most fertiliser
products contain nutrients in a soluble form. The nutrients in biofertilisers are in a biological form.
This means the nutrients are attached to a carbon based compound. When nutrients are attached
to carbon we say they are in an organic form. When nutrients are not attached to carbon we say
they are inorganic. Nutrients in organic forms are more stable than soluble fertilisers and are better
for soil health as they do not negatively affect soil biology when used correctly.

Blood and bone and chicken manure are examples of biofertilisers. Modern biofertilisers are often
fermented, using microbes and carbohydrates to complex nutrients into biological forms.

Compound Biologicals
Some biological products have more than one function. They may contain beneficial microbes as
well as containing stimulant compounds and/or nutrients. For example some worm liquids contain
microbes as well as biostimulant compounds. These products are compound biological products.

7
 Making Bioferments:
the basics
Fermentation is the process of
using a culture of specialised
microbes to transform
material into stable beneficial
compounds under controlled
conditions. It is how alcohol
is made and many foods are
preserved. A home brew is an
example of fermentation!
Fermentation usually happens in conditions
of low or no oxygen. There are a wide range of
bacteria, yeasts and related organisms that can
ferment. Many of these are called anaerobic
microbes. Some of these microbes can also
live in conditions with oxygen. They switch their
activity depending on the level of oxygen.

During fermentation microbes create many

different compounds known as secondary
metabolites or fermentation byproducts. In a
balanced, controlled ferment these products are When making bioferments it is important to en-
beneficial and can include vitamins, enzymes, sure a balanced complete fermentation process
amino acids and organic acids. These com- occurs. This will result in a range of beneficial
pounds are biostimulants and may help with compounds and microbes in the final product.
plant and soil management.
The benefits of bioferments when used
In a poor fermentation process products like as part of a holistic, rational agronomy
gases and alcohol can be produced which may approach may include:
be toxic to plants at certain concentrations.
• Improving the uptake of nutrients
Depending on the culturing process you use, • Stimulating root growth
bioferments may also contain beneficial mi- • Reducing plant stress
crobes like bacteria and yeast. Finally you can • Increasing plant health
add nutrients to some bioferment recipes to • Cycling organic matter
make biofertilisers. • Improving a composting process

8
 Culturing on farm: getting it right

Culturing microbes is not too complicated and you can make quality products on farm as long as
you follow a few simple guidelines.

Use a balanced recipe

There are many different agricultural bioferment recipes on the internet and Youtube. No matter what
recipe you follow, you need to get the right balance of a few key elements to get a quality culture.

1. Starter Culture - every bioferment will have culturing process is critical to get your
a specific culture of microbes. You normally chosen culture thriving. In some recipes
need to add a starter or base culture to help you need to seal the lid and put on a
get the ferment going. To get a consistent fermentation lock. For other recipes you
result you need to inoculate the ferment. keep the lid loose and for others you may
2. Energy – the culture of fermenting need to add oxygen.
microbes get this from simple 5. Water – Liquid based cultures are done
carbohydrates like sugars. This energy can in water and it is important that you use a
be supplied from molasses, sugar, fruits clean source of water. If using chlorinated
and some flours. water then it is a good idea to let it gas off
3. Nutrients – a culture needs a full range of for a few hours in your holding tank before
nutrients and micronutrients. These can making your culture.
come from plant or animal biomass, added 6. Temperature – not too hot and not too cold
nutrients/minerals or high protein materials is the rule for bio fermenting. The culture
like nutritional yeast. Seaweed, molasses microbes need warm conditions. Ideal is
and mineral powders are also sources of 25OC to 30OC. You can successfully ferment
micronutrients. below this range but under about 15OC it
4. Air – different cultures require either a full becomes very difficult to have success.
level of oxygen, low oxygen or no oxygen.
Controlling the oxygen level during the

9
Follow the process
It is important to follow the steps carefully
when making a bioferment. This ensures you
get a consistent, quality product each batch.
It is possible to adapt a recipe process. If you
do decide to adapt a recipe then trial it first
and make a note of the steps you followed. If
you get a good result you can then repeat the
process next time.

The process for making some of the bioferment

recipes in this booklet has been tested as part
of Soil Land Food’s Making Biofertilisers on your
farm project. Other recipes have been shared
by farmer collaborators and have been made
over some years on farm. Finally our technical
consulting microbiologist, Dr Chandra Iyer, has
given input and guidance to our project.

Monitor the quality

It is important to ensure each batch of

bioferment you make is of good quality. You
can do this by monitoring the process as
you go as well as the final product. Simple
equipment like a pH meter along with your
observation skills can help you track things.
You can also send samples off to a lab to test
quality if you want to invest more in checking
the quality of your products.

Use the right equipment

Generally fermentation creates acids so it is

best to use non-corrosive equipment. Plastic is
the best. Stainless steel is also fine but is more
expensive. Do not use other materials.

Keep things clean

Finally, always use clean equipment when

making bioferments. Thoroughly rinse
equipment between batches and before use.
Triple rinse second hand shuttles and storage
containers with sanitisers so they do not
contaminate your manufacturing. This will help
ensure quality.

10
 Using alternative ingredients

It is possible to swap some ingredients when making bioferments and get a similar result.
Sometimes ingredients may not be available to use locally. Sometimes you may want to use a local
source of material to get a locally adapted culture. For example some farmers like to use fresh
cow manure from their own farm as a starter culture. At other times you may have access to wood
ash or local minerals.

The recipes in this book are based on ingredients that can be fairly easily purchased and that are
consistent in quality. This will result in a consistent end product. Where possible we have also
given options for using local alternatives.

If you decide to use alternative ingredients then here are some tips:

• Using manures, paunch or other biomass

inputs that have large amounts of solids
can result in your ferment containing a
lot of materials that can block filters and
pumps. Extra steps to filter this off before
using are required. One way to solve this
issue is to make a slurry with the manure/
biomass and then strain the slurry, adding
only the liquid portion in your ferment.

• Manure contains a range of bacteria and

can be used successfully as a starter
culture. However it is important to use fresh
manure from a healthy cow that has not
been treated with animal health chemicals
for some weeks if possible.

• If you are in horticulture then you probably

have a Food Safety system in place.
Many Food Safety programs do not like • When adding soluble nutrients to
manures in fertiliser programs because biofertilisers it is recommended not to use
of the perceived risk to food safety from much nitrate or chloride based nutrients.
pathogens. Studies have shown that Sulphate forms of most soluble nutrients
fermentation with lactic acid bacteria will are best. Use technical grade products that
eliminate any risks. Despite this many Food dissolve easily in water. It is best to use
Safety programs may not allow you to use quality products that may cost a little more
manure based biofertilisers. All the recipes but will give you a consistent result.
in this book can be made without manures. • Certified organic farmers need to choose
• Use very fine grade rock minerals, biochar ingredients compliant for organic
or wood ash in ferments. The finer the certification. The recipes in this manual are
product is the more available it will be to not organic compliant but can be adapted.
the culture microbes and the more value it
will give you.

11
 Base Cultures
These recipes are for the starter cultures that you use to make all the other products. They are
also called Serums. You can also use these products on their own. They can be used to reduce
odours in animal sheds and manure piles. There are 2 main Base Cultures. One is made with kefir,
a European style youghurt. The other is made with rice and milk. The dominant microbial group in
the culture is lactobacillus bacteria, along with some other bacteria and yeasts.

There are some commercial products that can be used instead of these base cultures. They are
sometimes called Effective Microorganisms (EM) or sometimes Lactos. Look for ones based on a
lactic acid bacteria culture. The farm made ones are usually much more economic. They also store
for a long time so you can make a batch and then use it as needed for a year or two.

If they are not used within a few weeks of making then seal the container tightly for long term
storage. It should last for at least 6 to 24 months but it should be checked regularly to see if it is
stable. Store in a shady location. If it is giving off gas you can take the lid off for a few hours every
month or so.

12
13
 LAB Culture
(LAB Serum)

This is a simple starter culture based on using rice, water, molasses and milk. It makes a
culture of mainly fermenting bacteria called Lactobacillus. This recipe is ideal when you are
working remote as milk powder, rice, molasses and water are available in most places.

Ingredients & Equipment

Clean water - Buckets - 10 and 20 litre

non-chlorinated
Rice - any type Measuring Jug - clean
Molasses 200L Barrels and 1000L
IBCs - clean with lid
Milk – must have lactose. pH tester - for liquids
Can be made from milk
powder

Batch Quantities

200* litres 1000 litres

Rice 1.5 - 2 kg Rice 5 kg
Water 125 L Water 625 L
Milk^ 70 L Milk^ 350 L
Molasses 10 L Molasses 50 L

* For the 200 litre batch size a 180 or 220 litre drum (44 gallon) can be used. Just use slightly more or less water.
^ Milk can be made from milk powder.

14
 METHOD
LAB Culture
1000 litre batch

Make rice water

• Add 175 litres of water to a 200 litre barrel or IBC.
• Add rice to the water.
• Leave for 3 - 7 days in a sheltered place with a loose fitting lid.
• Check the rice water each day. The liquid should change during this time. It should smell
slightly sour and may have a slightly milky colour to it.
• When the liquid rice water has soured somewhat, decant the water off and keep it.
• Throw away the rice.
• This liquid rice water is a culture mainly of Lactobacillus species.

Make whey
• Now add this rice water to the milk in a 1000 litre IBC with a wide lid.
• Cover with a loose fitting lid and store for a few days until it curdles and milk solids
separate.
• Remove and discard the solids with a scoop. Keep the creamy-yellow whey.
• You should have about 450 litres of whey.

Make culture
• Then add equal parts water (approx 450 litres) to this liquid whey.
• Add in 50 litres of molasses to the product.
• Leave for around 10 days with the lid loosely on.
• Protect from insects with mesh if needed.
• It will stop bubbling and giving off gas when it is finished.
• This is your stable LAB Culture product.
• Check the pH of the product. It should be at 4 or just below.
• Visually check the liquid. It should be light to mid brown colour with a slightly sweet-sour
smell.
• Store the product in a cool, shady place with the lid tightly on.
• Check fortnightly and let gas out if needed.

If it is not used within a few weeks of making then seal the container tightly for long term
storage. It should last for at least 6 to 24 months but it should be checked every few weeks
to see if it is stable. Some light brown, pink or light grey yeasts may colonise the surface
over time. This is OK. The pH should remain around 4 or under. The smell should remain the
sweet/sour smell of lactic acid and molasses. If it is giving off gas you can take the lid off for
a few hours every month or so.

15
 KAB Culture
(KAB Serum)

This is a simple starter culture based on kefir or filmjoilk

(types of European yoghurt), water, molasses and milk.
It makes a culture of fermenting bacteria containing
lactobacillus along with other bacteria and yeasts.
Commercial yoghurts have reliable quantities and strains
of bacteria in them so this culture will give you a consistent
culture each time. It takes less time to make KAB culture
than the LAB Culture. It is also a more diverse culture than
the rice water so we recommend using this starter culture
if you can when making biofertilisers. However kefir is not
available at all supermarkets across rural Australia.

Ingredients & Equipment

Clean water - Buckets - 10 and 20 litre

non-chlorinated
Kefir or Filmjolk Measuring Jug - clean
Molasses 200L Barrels and 1000L
IBCs - clean with lid
Milk – must have lactose. pH tester - for liquids
Can be made from milk
powder

Batch Quantities

200* litres 1000 litres

Kefir/ 4L Kefir/ 15-20 L
Filmjolk Filmjolk
Water 140 L Water 700 L
Milk^ 30 L Milk^ 150 L
Molasses 20 L Molasses 100 L

* For the 200 litre batch size a 180 or 220 litre drum (44 gallon) can be used. Just use slightly more or less water.
^ Milk can be made from milk powder.

16
 METHOD
KAB Culture
1000 litre batch

Method: KAB Culture

• Add the water to an IBC/barrel
• Mix the molasses with the water and mix thoroughly
• Add the milk
• Add the kefir or filmjolk
• Agitate until mixed
• Leave for around 10 - 20 days with the lid loosely on.
• Protect from insects with mesh if needed.
• It will stop bubbling and giving off gas when it is finished.
• This is your stable KAB Culture product.
• Check the pH of the product. It should be at 4 or just below.
• Visually check the liquid. It should be light to mid brown colour with a slightly sweet-sour
smell.
• Store the product in a cool, shady place with the lid tightly on.
• Check fortnightly and let gas out if needed.

If it is not used within a few weeks of making then seal the container tightly for long term
storage. It should last for at least 6 to 24 months but it should be checked every few weeks
to see if it is stable. Some light brown, pink or light grey yeasts may colonise the surface
over time. This is OK. The pH should remain around 4 or under. The smell should remain the
sweet/sour smell of lactic acid and molasses. If it is giving off gas you can take the lid off for
a few hours every month or so.

17
 Compost Inoculant
This culture contains microorganisms that help to compost organic materials under low
oxygen conditions. It is used when making fermentation compost. It can also be used to
reduce odours in animal sheds and manure piles. You use the LAB or KAB culture to start this
recipe, adding other ingredients to it. It can be made easily on the farm. It is best made in a
large wheelie bin or 1000 L IBC. This inoculant is diluted in water and added to the compost
material as you are setting up the compost pile. This product needs to be used within a few
weeks of making.

For more information on how to make a fermentation compost using this inoculant and what
rates to use it at, see the Fermentation Composting Fact Sheet by Soil Land Food.

Ingredients & Equipment

Clean water - non-chlorinated Seawater – or equivalent*

Base Culture – KAB or LAB Culture Measuring Jug / Buckets
Molasses Wheelie Bin / 1000L IBC - with lid
Blood & Bone Meal Hessian sack & string – coffee or potato
sack
Bran – rice or any cereal Basalt powder/Wood ash - optional
Fresh green leafy plant material Seaweed liquid or meal - optional

*If you do not have access to seawater you can make it by adding 1 cup of sea salt to 7 litres of clean water. If you need a larger quantity then
just multiple this recipe, keeping the ratio the same.

Batch Quantities

Wheelie Bin (180 - 200 litres) 1000 litres IBC

Water 160 L Water 800 L

Green leafy material 15 – 20 L Green leafy material 100 L
Blood & Bone 3 kg Blood & Bone 15 kg
Bran 3 kg Bran 15kg
Basalt powder/Wood ash 1 kg Basalt dust* 5 kg
Seaweed 1 kg Seaweed Meal* 5kg
Molasses 3L Molasses 15 L
Seawater 7L Seawater 28 L
Base Culture 7- 10 L Base Culture 50 L

18
 METHOD
Compost Inoculant

Make liquid
• Fill bin or IBC with half the water
• Add molasses, seawater and Base Culture (KAB
or LAB Serum) to the Bin/IBC. You can also add
seaweed liquid instead of meal if available.
• Now add the balance of water to the Bin/IBC.

Add extras
• Prepare hessian ‘teabag” by placing fresh
green leafy plant material (grass, weeds,
herbs, fresh seaweed etc.), blood and bone
meal and bran into the sack and closing it
with string. You can add basalt rock dust or
seaweed meal if available.
• Place the ‘teabag’ sack into the Bin/IBC and
secure to the side so you can readily access it.
• Close the lid loosely on the Bin/IBC and leave
the mixture to activate for 5 days.

Activate the culture

• Every day open the lid to check on the mixture.
Jiggle the ‘teabag’ sack at least once a day
every day for the 5 days.
• After 5 days remove Hessian tea bag and
discard the contents of the tea bag.
• The liquid is your compost inoculant.
• Store the product in a shaded cool place with
the lid loosely on.

The product should have a bright, orange, mid

brown colour. Some light brown, pink or light grey It is applied to compost at 1 litre per
yeasts may colonise the surface over time. This every 10 cubic meters of material as
is OK. The smell should remain the sweet/sour you set up a compost windrow. It can
smell of lactic acid and molasses. be diluted in water before applying it
to the compost.

19
 Hydrolysates

A hydrolysate is a high protein bioferment made with material such as fish biomass, animal
carcasses or food scraps. These are macerated (smashed up) and then fermented with a
starter culture, water and a carbohydrate source like molasses. Sometimes the biomass
is pre-processed to help break it down. This can be chemically, usually with potassium
hydroxide, or physically with a mincer. The result is a bioferment with both fertiliser value
and a range of biostimulants. There has been a fair amount of research showing that the
compounds in hydrolysates, including amino acids and organic acids, are very beneficial to
plant growth and health.

Ingredients & Equipment

Clean water - non-chlorinated High Protein biomass – animals and/or

vegetable
Starter Culture – KAB or LAB Culture Measuring Jug / Buckets
Molasses 200 L Barrel / 1000L IBC - with
fermentation lock

Batch Quantities

200* litres
High protein 80 L*
biomass
Water 80 - 100 L
Base culture 16 L
Molasses 11 L

1000 litres
High protein 400 L*
biomass
Water 400 L
Base culture 80 L
Molasses 55 L

* Recipe is done by volume not weight

20
 METHOD
Hydrolysate

Prepare the culture

• Macerate the biomass using a mincer, insinkerator or smash with a spade. You may need
to add water to help this process.
• Fill barrel or IBC with biomass
• Add the water to the biomass
• Add the Base Culture to the mix
• Add molasses to the mix
• Mix thoroughly but not too vigorously
• Check you have a 10 - 20 cm gap between the top of the culture and the lid. Top up with
water if you need.

Ferment the culture

• Seal the ferment with a fermentation lock.
• Ferment for at least 2 months (60 days).
• Monitor the ferment by checking that gas is coming out of the fermentation lock.
• You can also check the ferment by briefly removing the lid to check it is active after 2
weeks. Make sure to reseal it again.
• It will stop bubbling and giving off gas when it is finished.
• This is a stable Hydrolysate product.
• Check the pH of the product. It should be at 4 or just below.
• Visually check the liquid. It should be light to mid brown colour with a slightly sweet-
sour smell.
• Store the product in a cool, shady place with the lid tightly on.
• Check fortnightly and let gas out if needed.

This product may need to be filtered before use. If it is not used within a few weeks of
making then seal the container tightly for long term storage. It should last for at least 6 to
24 months but it should be checked every few weeks to see if it is stable. Some light brown,
pink or light grey yeasts may colonise the surface over time. This is OK. The pH should
remain around 4 or under.

The smell should remain the sweet/sour smell of lactic acid and molasses. If it is giving off
gas you can take the lid off for a few hours every month or so. Sometimes this culture may
start to go putrid. It will darken in colour and start to emit a foul smell. In this case you can
add more Base Culture at 10% and molasses at 10% by volume to stabilise it.

21
 Biofertilisers
Biofertiliser products can be used for growing insoluble in the water. For example mixing
crops or pastures. There are a wide range phosphorous and calcium together in the same
of recipes for making biofertilisers.They are tank will lead to an insoluble phosphorous salt
sometimes called Biols. These are bioferments forming. Making biofertilisers is more complex
to which nutrients are added. In all recipes than making soluble liquid fertilisers. The goal is
nutrient elements are added to the recipe before to complex (chelate) the nutrients biologically.
or during fermentation. It is not a black and white science as it depends
on the culture dynamics
The nutrients in as well as the nutrient
biofertilisers are in combinations.
a biological form.
This means the Therefore when making
nutrients are attached biofertilisers you can
to a carbon based add nutrients that may
compound. When usually react in water.
nutrients are attached This is because the
to carbon they are culture will balance the
in an “organic” form. reactions. However, you
When nutrients still need to be careful
are not attached when adding different
to carbon they are nutrients. It is also
“inorganic”. During important not to add
fermentation, as the more nutrients than the
culture microbes culture can digest.
grow, they digest
the nutrients turning The three biofertiliser
them into biologically recipes in this booklet
based compounds. are designed to be
Nutrients in this simple and follow the
form are sometimes above principles. We
called chelated or have also avoided
complexed. Nutrients in biological forms are using chloride and nitrate based nutrients to
more stable than soluble fertilisers and are optimise the fermentation environment. You
better for soil health when used correctly as are welcome to adapt these recipes and add
they do not negatively affect soil biology. or replace nutrients as you like. Just follow the
principles in this booklet and you cant go too
Biofertilisers can be made using soluble, far wrong! There are options in the recipes that
“chemical” nutrients, or by using mineral, use soluble nutrients and options for certified
“natural”, forms of nutrients. They can also be organic farmers.
made with major nutrients or micronutrients
(trace elements). You can make single nutrient Biofertilisers can be applied between 5 and
biofertilisers or multi-nutrient biofertilisers. 50 litres per hectare. 5 to 10 litres is the rate
usually used in dry land cropping. You can also
Usually when making soluble liquid fertilisers tank mix other fertilisers and biologicals with
the goal is to dissolve the nutrients fully. It is the biofertiliser just before application. Dilute in
important not blend certain nutrients as they water for application.
can have a chemical reaction and become

22
23
 Biofert P Plus + Micronutrients

This is a Biofertiliser recipe with Phosphorous plus Potassium, Calcium, Magnesium, Sulphur
and micronutrients. It is low in soluble Nitrogen. It is a biofertiliser designed to support the
developing root system of growing plants. It can also be applied as a foliar spray.

1000L Batch Ingredients

• Water - 650 to 700 litres

• Base Culture (KAB or LAB Serum) - 100 litres1
• Molasses - 100 litres
• Milk - 50 litres - Can be made from milk powder
• Liquid Seaweed - 5 to 10 litres
• Nutritional Yeast - 0.5 to 1 kg2
• Sea Salt - 0.5 kg
• MKP Fertiliser (Campbells MKP) - 25 kg3
• Micronutrients Mix Fertiliser (Campbells Trace It Total) - 4 kg4
• Calcium Thiosulphate Fertiliser (Campbells Thio Cal) - 5 litres5
• Magnesium Sulphate Fertiliser (Campbells Mag Sulphate) - 5 kg6
• Extras7

Options

1
You can substitute some of the Base Culture with fresh cow manure slurry if you like. We recommend including at
least 50 litres of Base Culture. To make a manure slurry, mix 1 part water with 1 part fresh manure. Leave covered
for 2 hours. Then filter the slurry before mixing it in to the biofertiliser. This lowers the risk of suspended materials
causing blockages in the final product. You can also add 1/2 kg of bakers yeast to the recipe.

2
Vegemite, Marmite or soy flour can be used instead.

3
You can substitute this with micronised rock phosphate and soluble potassium sulphate in whatever ratios you want.

4
You can leave the Micronutrients out of the recipe if you want. Alternatively you can just add single micronutrients
like Zinc, Copper, etc. Add them in at 3 - 5 kg to the 1000 litres. No more than 15 kg total micronutrients is
suggested.

5
You can substitute this with liquid lime or liquid gypsum. Use a high grade liquid calcium product that is properly
micronised. You could also use Calcium Chloride instead. Certified Organic farmers cannot use Thiocalcium or
Calcium Chloride.

6
You can leave the Magnesium Sulphate out if you have adequate to high magnesium in your soils.

7
Extras you can add into the recipe include biochar, basalt powder, wood ash, seaweed, zeolite or humic acid. Add
no more than 10 kg of these extras in total. Always use very fine grade materials to reduce the risk of equipment
issues when handing.

24
 METHOD
Biofert P Plus - 1000L IBC

Mix ingredients
• Add 500 litres of water to the IBC
• Dissolve the Sea Salt, MKP and Micronutrients into this 500 litres of water
• Separately dilute the molasses with 100 litres of water
• Add this molasses/water mix into the 500 litres of nutrient water thoroughly
• Add in the Kefir Culture to the IBC and mix well
• Add in the Milk, Liquid Seaweed and Nutritional Yeast to the IBC
• Agitate until everything is well mixed
• Dissolve the Thio Cal and Mag Sulphate into 100 litres of water
• Add this 100 litre mixture to the IBC
• Agitate again until all is mixed.
• Top up with extra water to 900 - 950 litres total as needed.
• Check you have a 10 - 20 cm gap between the top of the culture and the lid.
• Top up with water if you need.

Ferment the culture

• Seal the IBC and apply an airlock for fermentation.
• Ferment for at least 60 days
• Monitor the ferment by checking that gas is coming out of the fermentation lock.
• You can also check the ferment by briefly removing the lid to check it is active after 2
weeks. Make sure to reseal it again.
• It will stop bubbling and giving off gas when it is finished.
• This is a stable Biofertiliser product.
• Visually check the liquid. It should be light to mid brown colour with a neutral to slightly
sweet-sour smell.
• Store the product in a cool, shady place with the lid tightly on.
• Check fortnightly and let gas out if needed.

Store in a shady location. Once fermented it can be stored for at least 6 months under a tight
seal. Check it every 2 weeks to ensure it is stable. You can use any brand of soluble nutrients
but use quality products. We suggest Campbells Fertilisers because they are of high quality.
We do not represent that company! Filter product before use.

25
 Biofert Ca Plus + Micronutrients

This is a Biofertiliser recipe with Phosphorous plus Potassium, Calcium, Magnesium, Sulphur
and micronutrients. It is low in soluble Nitrogen. It is a biofertiliser designed to support the
developing root system of growing plants. It can also be applied as a foliar spray.

1000L Batch Ingredients

• Water - 650 to 700 litres

• Base Culture (KAB or LAB Serum) - 100 litres1
• Molasses - 100 litres
• Milk - 50 litres - Can be made from milk powder
• Liquid Seaweed - 5 to 10 litres
• Nutritional Yeast - 0.5 to 1 kg2
• Sea Salt - 0.5 kg
• Calcium Thiosulphate/Calcium Chloride - 50 litres3
• Micronutrients Mix Fertiliser (Campbells Trace It Total) - 4 kg4
• Potassium Sulphate Fertiliser (Campbells Solu K) - 5 kg5
• Magnesium Sulphate Fertiliser (Campbells Mag Sulphate) - 5 kg6
• Extras7

Options

1
You can substitute some of the Base Culture with fresh cow manure slurry if you like. We recommend including at
least 50 litres of Base Culture. To make a manure slurry, mix 1 part water with 1 part fresh manure. Leave covered
for 2 hours. Then filter the slurry before mixing it in to the biofertiliser. This lowers the risk of suspended materials
causing blockages in the final product. You can also add 1/2 kg of bakers yeast to the recipe.

2
Vegemite, Marmite or soy flour can be used instead.

3
You can substitute this with liquid lime or liquid gypsum. Use a high grade liquid calcium product that is properly
micronised. You could also use Calcium Chloride but use half the amount when using Calcium Chloride. Certified
Organic farmers cannot use Thiocalcium or Calcium Chloride.

4
You can leave the Micronutrients out of the recipe if you want. Alternatively you can just add single micronutrients
like Zinc, Copper, etc. Add them in at 3 - 5 kg to the 1000 litres. No more than 10 kg total micronutrients is
suggested.

5
You can substitute this with wood ash if you like.

6
You can leave the Magnesium Sulphate out if you have adequate to high magnesium in your soils.

7
Extras you can add into the recipe include biochar, basalt powder, wood ash, seaweed, zeolite or humic acid. Add
no more than 10 kg of these extras in total. Always use very fine grade materials to reduce the risk of equipment
issues when handing.

26
 METHOD
Biofert Ca Plus - 1000L IBC

Mix ingredients
• Add 500 litres of water to the IBC
• Dissolve the liquid lime, Potassium Sulphate and Magnesium Sulphate into this 500 litres
of water
• Separately dilute the molasses with 100 litres of water
• Add this molasses/water mix into the 500 litres of nutrient water thoroughly
• Add in the Kefir Culture to the IBC and mix well
• Add in the Milk, Liquid Seaweed and Nutritional Yeast to the IBC
• Agitate until everything is well mixed
• Dissolve the micronutrients into 100 litres of water
• Add this 100 litre mixture to the IBC
• Agitate again until all is mixed.
• Top up with extra water to 900 - 950 litres total as needed.
• Check you have a 10 - 20 cm gap between the top of the culture and the lid.
• Top up with water if you need.

Ferment the culture

• Seal the IBC and apply an airlock for
fermentation.
• Ferment for at least 60 days
• Monitor the ferment by checking that gas is
coming out of the fermentation lock.
• You can also check the ferment by briefly
removing the lid to check it is active after 2
weeks. Make sure to reseal it again.
• It will stop bubbling and giving off gas when
it is finished.
• This is a stable Biofertiliser product.
• Visually check the liquid. It should be light to mid brown colour with a neutral to slightly
sweet-sour smell.
• Store the product in a cool, shady place with the lid tightly on.
• Check fortnightly and let gas out if needed.

Store in a shady location. Once fermented it can be stored for at least 6 months under a tight
seal. Check it every 2 weeks to ensure it is stable. You can use any brand of soluble nutrients
but use quality products. We suggest Campbells Fertilisers because they are of high quality.
Filter product before use.

27
 Biofert Maxi Micros

This is a Biofertiliser recipe with a range of micronutrients. It is a biofertiliser designed to

supply a range of micronutrients to support soil and plant systems. It can also be applied as
a foliar spray. You can customise the recipe to focus on one or a few micronutrients or you
can make a broad spectrum version.

1000L Batch Ingredients

• Water - 650 to 700 litres

• Base Culture (KAB or LAB Serum) - 100 litres1
• Molasses - 100 litres
• Milk - 50 litres - Can be made from milk powder
• Liquid Seaweed - 5 to 10 litres
• Nutritional Yeast - 0.5 to 1 kg2
• Sea Salt - 0.5 kg
• Calcium Thiosulphate/Calcium Chloride - 5 litres3
• MKP Fertiliser (Campbells MKP) - 5 kg4
• Magnesium Sulphate Fertiliser (Campbells Mag Sulphate) - 5 kg5
• Micronutrients Mix Fertiliser (Campbells Trace It Total) - 30 kg6
• Extras7

Options

1
You can substitute some of the Base Culture with fresh cow manure slurry if you like. We recommend including at
least 50 litres of Base Culture. To make a manure slurry, mix 1 part water with 1 part fresh manure. Leave covered
for 2 hours. Then filter the slurry before mixing it in to the biofertiliser. This lowers the risk of suspended materials
causing blockages in the final product. You can also add 1/2 kg of bakers yeast to the recipe.

2
Vegemite, Marmite or soy flour can be used instead.

3
You can substitute this with liquid gypsum or liquid lime. Use a high grade liquid calcium product that is properly
micronised. Certified Organic farmers cannot use thiocalcium.

4
Organic farmers can substitute MKP with a mixture of rock phosphate and potassium silicate at 3 kg each. Use
super fine rock phosphate (colloidal).

5
Use tech/horticulture grade that dissolves in water.

6
Use a high quality multi-element micronutrient product that is fully soluble. Alternatively substitute the multi-
element product for one or a few micronutrients. Use no more than 30kg of micronutrient products in total. Use no
more than 2kg of any Cobalt product in total.

7
Extras you can add into the recipe include biochar, basalt powder, wood ash, seaweed, zeolite or humic acid. Add
no more than 10 kg of these extras in total. Always use very fine grade materials to reduce the risk of equipment
issues when handing.

28
 METHOD
Biofert Maxi Micros - 1000L IBC

Mix ingredients
• Add 500 litres of water to the IBC
• Dissolve the micronutrients into this 500 litres of water
• Separately dilute the molasses with 100 litres of water
• Add this molasses/water mix into the 500 litres of nutrient water thoroughly
• Add in the Kefir Culture to the IBC and mix well
• Add in the Milk, Liquid Seaweed and Nutritional Yeast to the IBC
• Agitate until everything is well mixed
• Dissolve the Liquid Lime, MKP and Magnesium Sulphate into 100 litres of water
• Add this 100 litre mixture to the IBC
• Agitate again until all is mixed.
• Top up with extra water to 900 - 950 litres
total as needed.
• Check you have a 10 - 20 cm gap
between the top of the culture and the lid.
• Top up with water if you need.

Ferment the culture

• Seal the IBC and apply an airlock for
fermentation.
• Ferment for at least 60 days
Monitor the ferment by checking that
gas is coming out of the fermentation
lock.
• You can also check the ferment by briefly
removing the lid to check it is active after 2 weeks. Make sure to reseal it again.
• It will stop bubbling and giving off gas when it is finished.
• This is a stable Biofertiliser product.
• Visually check the liquid. It should be light to mid brown colour with a neutral to slightly
sweet-sour smell.
• Store the product in a cool, shady place with the lid tightly on.
• Check fortnightly and let gas out if needed.

Store in a shady location. Once fermented it can be stored for at least 6 months under a tight
seal. Check it every 2 weeks to ensure it is stable. You can use any brand of soluble nutrients
but use quality products. We suggest Campbells Fertilisers because they are of high quality.
Filter product before use.

29
 Important Information

When using bioferments it is important to

apply the product using a sound agronomic
decision-making process. Soil tests, tissue
tests and/or assessing visual performance
of the soil/crop/pastures are important
tools to help make an informed decision.
This booklet has been prepared as general
information only. It is provided in good
faith and based on the most appropriate
technical information available. The
information provided is given as a guide
only and is not intended to substitute for
professional agronomic advice. Results
from using bioferments depend on many
factors beyond the control of Soil Land
Food. Where materials are mentioned
other suitable similar materials may be
available from alternate suppliers. Those
mentioned are just those that Soil Land
Food is familiar with. These recipes are not
compliant for certified organic farmers.
If you a certified organic farmer you will
need to adapt these recipes. Soil Land
Food accepts no liability arising from use
of the information in this booklet for any
loss, damage or injury. The user takes the
information in this Booklet on these terms.

References
Chontal et al; 2019. Nutrient content of fermented fertilisers and its efficacy in combination
with hydrogel in Zea Mays L. International Journal of Recycling Organic Waste in Agriculture

Kalema & Chacon; 2010. Organic fertilisers and bio-ferments; a practical manual for
smallholder farmers; Louis Balk Institute

Plamer, N; 2020. The Regenerative Growers Guide to Garden Amendments. Chelsea Green.

Reddy, R; 2011. Cho’s Natural Global Farming. SARRA

30
Notes
 Bioferments: making them on your farm
2021 - 2022

is an extension project initiated by Soil Land Food in partnership with Returning Organ-
ics to Soils to help develop capacity in Australian farmers to make quality compost,
biofertilisers and biostimulants on farm using applied fermentation technologies. The
project is developing a range of simple and effective recipes for bioferments that can
be made on farm and conducting testing to validate the quality of the recipes. These are
freely available to farmers. We aim to do field efficacy trials of the products in the next
stage of the project.