Estee Lauder
Estee Lauder
History
Beauty, youth, and being forever young are common themes in the personal products
industry. A young entrepreneur named Estée Lauder felt that she could provide a product
that espoused those qualities. Estée Lauder Company was founded in 1946 by Estée
Lauder and her husband Joseph Lauder. Estée was always interested in beauty and began
her business selling the skin care products her chemist uncle, John Schotz, developed. Her
first products were sold to beauty salons and hotels.
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In the early years, Estée was unable to convince Madison Avenue to carry her prod-
ucts. Facing this rejection, she began to market her products directly to customers. With
that success, the Lauders began targeting high-class customers by selling products exclu-
sively through boutiques and department stores. In 1948, Estée Lauder established their
first department store account with Saks Fifth Avenue in New York. During the next 15
years, the products were selectively distributed in other stores in the United States. In 1960
the company globalized their operations with the introduction of Estée Lauder products at
Harrods in London, with the Hong Kong market opening the following year.
The first Estée Lauder products sold were Super Rich All Purpose Creme, Creme
Pack, Cleansing Oil, and Skin Lotion. Additional brands such as Aramis, a line of prestige
fragrance and grooming products for men was launched in 1964, and Clinique, the first
dermatologist-guided, allergy-tested, fragrance-free cosmetics brand was launched in
1968. Prescriptives and Origins Natural Resources were early brands too. Estée Lauder
acquired more brand licensing of names such as Tommy Hilfiger, MAC, Bobbi Brown, La
Mer, Kiton fragrances, Donna Karan, and Aveda.
Mrs. Estée Lauder was named one of ten Outstanding Women in Business in the
United States by business and financial editors in 1967. A year later she received the Spirit
of Achievement Award from Albert Einstein College of Medicine at Yeshiva University.
This was the same year that the company expanded again by opening Clinique Laboratories,
Inc. In 1983, their products were introduced in the Soviet Union.
In 1998, Estée Lauder began selling a variety of products over the Internet and was
one of the first major cosmetics firms to offer online shopping. A new division called ELC
Online was created to manage all online strategies and activities for all of its brands.
During this same time frame other acquisitions included Jo Malone, Stila Cosmetics, and
Gloss.com. New York-based Bumble and Bumble LLC was acquired. In 2003, Darphin
and Rodan + Fields were acquired and a license with Michael Kors was signed shortly
afterward. In 2004, the company’s teen-oriented Jane business was sold and Estée Lauder
launched Beauty, Flirt, and Good Skin through its BeautyBank division, followed by
Grassroots in 2005 and Daisy Fuentes in 2006.
The year 2006 also saw license agreements with Sean John, Missoni, and Donald
Trump, and the Stila brand was sold. Today Estée Lauder Companies has 26 brands, sells
products in over 130 countries and territories, and employs over 22,000 people worldwide.
Although Mrs. Estée Lauder passed away in April 2004, she witnessed the growth of a
small home operation into a worldwide corporation with annual revenues of more than
$5 billion. She was very proud that her company went public in 1995 and today is led by
Estée and Joseph’s children and grandchildren.
Mission Statement
In a short, succinct statement, Estée Lauder Companies, Inc. states that their vision is
“bringing the best to everyone we touch.”1 Furthermore, the company is committed to
uncompromised ethics and integrity. For all employees domestically and globally, and the
board of directors, the highest standard of ethics is a condition of employment. The com-
pany’s official home page elaborates by stating the following:
4 S H A RYNN TOMLIN
O rganizational Structure
As illustrated in Exhibit 1, it is not clear whether Estée Lauder uses a traditional functional
structure or some type of divisional structure. It is managed primarily by Lauder family mem-
bers as both the chief executive officer (CEO) and chairman of the board are Lauders. There are
Source: http://www.elcompanies.com
four group presidents who report to the CEO, but it is not clear whether these four persons have
authority over the four product lines or four geographic areas of the world. The management
systems at all Estée Lauder manufacturing operations conform to the ISO 14001 standards.
Estée Lauder has offices, stores, and facilities all over the world as indicated in Exhibit 2.
Financial Position
As indicated in Exhibit 3, Estée Lauder’s 2006 sales increased 3 percent to $6,463.8 mil-
lion due to growth in their makeup, skin care, and hair care product categories, which was
partially offset by lower sales in the fragrance product category. The net increase reflects
continued
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6 S H A RYNN TOMLIN
Source: http://www.elcompanies.com
sales growth in all geographic regions. Note that cost of sales as a percentage of total sales
increased to 26.1 percent as compared with 25.5 percent in the prior year. Operating
income decreased 15 percent to $619.6 million, and the operating margin was 9.6 percent
of sales in fiscal 2006 as compared with 11.6 percent in the prior year. Note in Exhibit 4
that Estée Lauder’s long-term debt decreased 4.6 percent to $431 million in 2006.
All Amounts in Millions Except Share Data (Year Ended June 30)
2007 2006 2005
ASSETS
Current Assets
Cash and cash equivalents $ 253.7 368.6 553.3
Accounts receivables, net 860.5 771.2 776.6
Inventory and promotional merchandise 855.8 766.3 768.3
Prepaid expenses and other current assets 269.4 270.8 204.4
Total Current Assets 2,239.4 2,176.9 2,302.6
Property, Plant, and Equipment, net 880.8 758.0 694.2
Other Assets
Investments, at cost or market value 22.2 13.4 12.3
Goodwill 651.3 635.8 720.6
Other intangible assets, net 113.4 77.0 71.8
Other assets, net 218.6 123.0 84.3
Total Other Assets 1,005.5 849.2 889.0
Total Assets $ 4,125.7 3,784.1 3,885.8
LIABILITIES AND STOCKHOLDERS’ EQUITY
Current Liabilities
Short-term debt 60.4 89.7 263.6
Accounts payable 1,440.3 264.5 249.4
Accrued income taxes – 135.5 109.9
Other accrued liabilities – 948.5 874.8
Total Current Liabilities 1,500.7 1,438.2 1,497.7
Noncurrent Liabilities
Long-term debt 1,028.1 431.8 451.1
Other noncurrent liabilities 376.6 266.4 228.4
Total Noncurrent Liabilities $ 1,404.7 698.2 679.5
continued
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Finances by Pro d u c t
As indicated in Exhibit 5, the company’s sales of skin care products increased 2 percent or
$48.7 million to $2,400.8 million primarily due to new product launches. Makeup net sales
increased 6 percent or $137.4 million to $2,504.2 million, reflecting growth from the
makeup artist brands of approximately $179 million. Net sales of fragrance products
decreased 4 percent or $47.3 million to $1,213.3 million as the company continue to strug-
gle in this product category, particularly in the Americas region. Hair care net sales
increased 16 percent or $44.8 million to $318.7 million, primarily due to sales growth from
Bumble and Bumble and Aveda products.
Finances by Geographic Region
Exhibit 5 also reveals that Estée Lauder’s sales in the Americas increased 3 percent to
$3,446.4 million, led by growth in the United States of about $190 million, primarily
attributable to makeup artist and hair care brands, Internet distribution, and the introduc-
tion of new fragrances. Net sales growth in Canada, Latin America, and Mexico con-
tributed an additional $48 million to the increase.
In Europe, the Middle East, and Africa, net sales increased 2 percent to $2,147.7 mil-
lion. Markets in Russia and the United Kingdom benefited from the success of the DKNY
Be Delicious franchise and the sale of MAC products. These increases were partially off-
set by decreases of approximately $26 million in Spain and Italy. Spain’s and Italy’s sales
were adversely affected by changes in the distribution policy and a difficult retail environ-
ment. Net sales in Europe, the Middle East, and Africa increased 5 percent.
The company’s 2006 sales in the Asia/Pacific region increased 6 percent to $869.7
million. Strategic growth in China combined with positive results in Korea and Hong
Kong, contributed about $57 million to sales growth of this region. These increases were
partially offset by decreases in Japan and Australia of about $18 million. Japan’s results
were negatively impacted due to the strengthening of the U.S. dollar against the Japanese
yen. The decrease in Australia reflected a slower and difficult retail environment, particu-
larly in the fragrance category. Net sales in Asia/Pacific increased 7 percent.
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8 S H A RYNN TOMLIN
Operating Income
2007 2006 2005 2004
Skin Care $341,500 $346,400 $365,800 $336,300
Makeup 339,300 329,400 294,900 257,700
Fragrance 28,100 7,700 35,800 24,800
Hair Care 42,500 26,500 22,800 23,600
Other (1,500) 1,700 1,300 1,600
Total $749,900 $711,700 $720,600 $644,000
Marketing
Product
Estée Lauder markets more than 9,000 quality products under its portfolio of brands.
Exhibit 6 summarizes the various products and dates of product launch or acquisition. Estée
Lauder was the first major prestige cosmetics firm to offer shopping via the Internet.
Department stores remain the best venue for high service and great brands since $7.6 bil-
lion in beauty sales were generated in U.S. department stores in 2006, representing 18 per-
cent of the total beauty market in the United States. Dan Brestle, COO of Estée Lauder,
stated that distribution channels in North America, sales on TV, and sales in doctors’
offices are growing. However, the major shift has been in mall-based specialty stores. In
Europe, the skincare business continues to migrate to pharmacies. While there is growth in
perfumeries in Asia, the Asian department store continues to dominate that channel.3
Promotion
Estée Lauder was the first cosmetics company to offer free samples and gift-with-purchase
and continues this strategy today. The company was also the first in the industry to intro-
duce consistent brand imagery around the world. For this purpose, the company uses
celebrities as endorsers in testimonial advertising for commercials on TV, as well as in
magazines. Elizabeth Hurley, Carolyn Murphy, Liya Kebede, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Anja
Rubik have been signed by the company, as well as Hilary Rhoda, who was named the new
face of Estée Lauder in January 2007.
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Source: http://www.elcompanies.com
Price
Estée Lauder prices vary from product to product and from brand to brand, but tend to be
in the mid-high to high range of the industry. Prestige pricing appears to be an effective
strategy given their target markets.
Industry Fa c t o rs
Much of the expected growth in the personal products industry will be fueled by the rising
demand from emerging and developing markets. Estimates have shown that in “the next 20
years . . . 70 million people across the globe [will] reach an income level that allows pur-
chasing of cosmetic products.”4 The U.S. Census Bureau predicts that by the year 2030,
Americans over the age of 65 will represent one-fifth of the population, which is expected
to devote a substantial part of their discretionary income to anti-aging products. Younger
consumers, age 20–30 years old, are choosing to invest their purchasing dollars in preven-
tive cosmetics to battle the effects of aging, and even teens are spending money on these
types of products.
The world’s aging population will multiple by 2.5 times in the next 40 years, repre-
senting over 33 percent of the total population. All geographic regions will be impacted by
this increase, including high growth countries such as China and India. Additionally, the
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10 S H A RYNN TOMLIN
life ex p e c t a n cy of the aging population will continue to improve, with the difference
between men and women gradually diminishing.
Companies will continue to devote substantial sums to research and development of
new and appealing products. However, given the competitive pricing at megastores such as
Wal-Mart, companies may be challenged to continue their patterns of innovative research.
Additionally, there have been consumer complaints and inquiries into the use of animal
testing for new products and many personal care product companies are dropping this form
of product testing for more humane and creative testing techniques.
Though the federal Food and Drug Administration does not require testing of cos-
metics, the agency has notified manufacturers that it would start to enforce labeling that
included the statement “Warning—the safety of this product has not been determined.”5
However, these issues are not new, having affected the industry for more than 100 years.
Concerns about the use of aerosols and fluorocarbons which first emerged in the
mid-1960s still remains an issue, especially as the need for decreasing damaging environ-
mental pollutants continues to be debated by governments, companies, and consumers.
Recent restrictions on products that can be carried in-flight have created uncertainty in the
outlook for the travel retail business. In fiscal 2006, the travel retail business comprised
approximately 7 percent of total net sales, and accounted for approximately 20 percent of
operating income.
Competitors
Top competitors in the cosmetics business are dive r s i fied with many brand names and a
wide range of products. A summary of key financial data on Estée Lauder and competitors
is shown in Exhibit 7.
L’ O re a l
L’Oreal is one of the worldwide leaders in cosmetics and distributes products in 130 coun-
tries with 19 global brands and offices in 58 countries. In 2006, the company statements
reflected €15.7 billion in consolidated sales, operating profits of €2.5 billion, and a com-
mitment of 3.4 percent of the annual sales to research and development.
EXHIBIT 7 Info on Competitors (2006) (in millions; amounts in US$ unless denoted otherwise)
Total
Company Revenues EBITDA Net Income Total Assets Liabilities PE Ratio
Alberto-Culver $ 3,772 378.9 205.3 2,582.5 823.6 20.80
Avon Products 8,763.9 477.6 917.0 5,238.2 4,447.8 28.91
Colgate-Palmolive 12,237.7 2,489.2 1,353.4 9,138 7,727 22.98
Estée Lauder 6,463.8 818 244.2 3,784.1 2,136.4 23.25
L’Oreal (euros) 15,729.3 3,157.4 2,062.1 24,783 10,158.8 NA
Procter & Gamble 68,222 16,159 8,684 135,695 72,787 20.11
Revlon 1,331.4 60.5 –251.3 931.9 2,161.7 –2.62
Unilever (euros) 39,642 4,687 5,015 37,072 25,400 NA
Source: Mergentonline.com
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year of sales growth and free cash flow productivity. P&G reported $68.2 billion of rev-
enues with a net income of $8.6 billion in 2006.
Unilever
Unilever, the Anglo-Dutch food and personal products group, has 400 brands that span
over 14 categories of home, personal care, and food products. Examples of their brands
include Sunsilk, Suave, Dove, Lipton, and Hellman’s. With a sales growth of 3.8 percent,
increased operating margins, and net profits increasing 10 percent (€5.4 million) since
2005, the company remains a strong competitive player. The growing financial health of
the company enabled Unilever to return €750 million to shareholders as a one-off div i-
dend. The personal care products division continues to represent an impressive share of
their growth, showing an increase of 6.3 percent in 2006.
The percentage of Unilever’s U.S. research conducted online has more than doubled
to 80 percent in five years. While the U.S. is its most advanced market, Unilever envisages
similar trends in countries where Internet access is widely available, such as the United
Kingdom and Japan. The shift to Internet projects by Unilever, which spends an estimated
€400 million a year (2006) on research, reflects the Web’s accelerating impact on the
global market research industry.
Colgate-Palmolive
Colgate-Palmolive, who marks their 200th year in 2006, markets a variety of products in
the oral, personal, and home care segments. The company had industry-leading revenues
of $11.3 billion in 2006 with a gross margin of 54.4 percent and a price earnings ratio of
26.77. The company reported a net income of $1,351,400,000 in 2006. Colgate-Palmolive
also has a strong and supportive relationship with professional and trade groups that has
increased with the introduction of new dental products.
Av o n
Avon Products Incorporated sells beauty and related products consisting of cosmetics, fra-
grances, skin care, and toiletries. Their principal offices are located in New York City near
Estée Lauder. As the world’s largest direct seller of personal products (primarily cosmet-
ics), Avon markets their products in over 100 countries through over 5 million independent
sales representatives. Avon’s product line includes beauty products, fashion jewelry, and
apparel. Their top-selling products include brand names such as Avon Color, Anew, Skin-
So-Soft, Avon Solutions, Advance Techniques, Avon Naturals, Mark, and Avon Wellness.
Despite 2006, considered a transition year in the company’s restructuring efforts, Avon
Products had total revenues of $8.7 billion, with a gross margin of 60.80, a price earning
ratio of 34.07, and net income of $477,600,000. Committed to their restructuring efforts,
advertising increases by 83 percent, new market development such as China, and product
and brand innovation, Avon continues to be a formidable competitor. Avon now has more
than 700,000 saleswomen in China alone.
Alberto-Culver
Alberto-Culver Company operates a beauty supply distribution network and deve l o p s ,
m a n u factures, and sells consumer beauty products with a strong presence in the profes-
sional salon market. The company is led by Carol L. Bernick as chairman and V. James
Marino as chief exe c u t ive officer and president with headquarters in Melrose Pa r k ,
Illinois. Alberto-Culver Company had $3.5 billion worth of revenues in 2006 with a
gross margin of 50.22 percent, a price earnings ratio of 10.27, and a net income of
$210,901,000.
Revlon
Revlon Worldwide Corporation offers a variety of cosmetic and beauty products under mul-
tiple brands. Revlon is one of the best known brand names in the world and the company
excels at mass marketing. The company is led by Wade H. Nichols, III as senior vice
president and general counsel and Howard Gittis as chairman, with principal offices in New
York, New York. Revlon Worldwide Corporation had $2.1 billion in total revenues in 2006
M11_DAVI5703_12_SE_CS01.QXD 2/16/09 5:33 PM Page 12
12 S H A RYNN TOMLIN
with a gross margin of 66.51 percent. The company’s net income was $94,600,000 for 2006.
International markets showed an increase in the first quarter of 2007 of 6.4 percent to
$135.3 million, compared with net sales of $127.2 million in the first quarter of 2006.
Conclusion
At a recent meeting of the Estée Lauder stockholders, William Lauder stated about the
c o m p a ny ’s future plans that “we expect to enhance our leadership in prestige beauty
around the world. We will continue to deliver innovative, cutting-edge products and build
strong global brands. We will target and reach diverse consumers by leveraging numerous
distribution channels in key markets all over the world. Our goal is to optimize, diversify,
and grow the business over the long term.”6 With these goals in mind, Estée Lauder has
developed a long-term strategy based on five imperatives:
• Optimization of brand portfolio
• Strengthening of product categories
• Strengthening and expansion of global markets
• Diversification and strengthening of channels of distribution
• Operational and cost excellence.7
Acknowledgments: Joshua Colyar, Anna Flores, Pauline Gullett, Logan Mueller,
Daniel Nichols, and Jasmine Reimann for their valued input.
Endnotes
1. http://www.elcompanies.com
2. http://www.elcompanies.com
3. www.lexisnexis.com/EsteeLauder
4. http://www.researchandmarkets.com/reports
5. “Toiletries and Cosmetics.” Encyclopedia of Global Industries. Online Edition,
Thomson Gale, 2006.
6. www.lexisnexis.com/esteelauder
7. www.elcompanies/el2006-10K