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UNIT 7

MORTAR AND PLASTER

7.1 INTRODUCTION
Sand - cement mixes include bedding mortar, plaster and floor screeds. The successful use of sand-
cement mixes requires the selection of suitable materials, correct mix proportions, accurate batching,
thorough mixing, placing or using the mix without delay, good compaction and preventing rapid drying of
the placed material.

THIS UNIT DEALS WITH:

Bedding mortars for walling
Plaster
Floor screeds

7.2 OUTCOMES FOR THIS UNIT

SPECIFIC OUTCOMES ASSESMENT CRITERIA

The qualifying learners should be able to: The qualifying learners should provide evidence of
knowledge, skills and competence through:

SO23: State the mix proportions for mortar for AC1: Correctly stating the proportions of sand and
exterior and interior walls. cement, using all purpose cement.

SO24: Explain in detail how the hand mixing of AC1: Correctly describing the steps in hand mixing in
concrete is done. the correct sequence.

SO25: Explain how to assess the workability of AC1: Correctly describing each step of the test in the
mortar. sequence of the operations.

SO26: Describe how to avoid hair cracks AC1: Clearly explaining two methods of avoiding hair
between the mortar beds and bricks. cracks.

SO27: Describe the properties of good plaster. AC1: Correctly stating four criteria on which you may
assess good plaster.

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SO28: Explain how you will know when the AC1: Correctly stating two signs which show that
plaster sand has too high a clay content. plaster sand has too high a clay content.

SO29: State the mix proportions for plaster for AC1: Correctly stating the proportions of sand and
exterior and interior walls. cement, using all purpose cement.

SO30: Explain how to prepare walls for AC1: Correctly explaining how the preparation is done
plastering. under the headings: accuracy, strength, roughness,
cleanliness, absorption.

SO31: Explain in detail how plaster is to be AC1: Correctly stating five steps in the process of
applied. plastering, in the correct sequence of operation.

SO32: Explain structural and non- structural AC1: Clearly distinguishing between the two types of
cracks in plaster. cracks and explaining the problems and possible
remedies for them.

SO33: Describe how to prepare a floor for AC1: Correctly explaining how the preparation of a
screed. concrete floor is done.

SO34: Explain in detail how grout is to be AC1: Correctly explaining the methods of mixing and
mixed and applied before the screed is applied. application, with emphasis on the time of application
after mixing as well as the time that the grout must
remain wet.

SO35: Explain in detail how screed is to be AC1: Correctly explaining the methods of mixing the
mixed. screed with emphasis on the mix proportions.

7.3 MORTAR MIX PROPORTIONS

It is vitally important that the mortar (dagha) that is used to build a house is strong enough to hold the
bricks in the correct position for many years. To make sure that this happens, care must be taken to mix
the correct amounts of sand and cement together, using the correct amount of water. Walls which will be
exposed to dampness will have to have a different mix to those which are not exposed to dampness.

7.3.1 CLASS I

Table 1 gives the proportions, using all-purpose cement for highly- stressed brickwork. These conditions
may be found in multi-storey buildings as well as walls exposed to severe dampness.

For our purposes (single storey dwellings) we should concentrate on the mix which uses all purpose
cement. The approximate yield is in the table to give you an idea of how much fresh mortar will result
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from the given proportions. This means that if, for example, 0,11m3 is needed, you will use exactly half of
the given quantities.

Table 1 Mix proportions for highly –stressed brickwork.

2000 Cement and Concrete Institute publication

7.3.2 A MIX FOR EXTERIOR WALLS EXPOSED TO DAMPNESS

As a rule, the more cement that a mix contains, the stronger the mortar will be. Exterior mortar is
exposed to wind- borne particles (sand), which can wear the mortar down. Also, exterior mortar is
exposed to rain, which means that the mix must be such that the sealing properties of the mortar are
good. Table 2 gives the correct proportions for exterior mortar, as well as the approximate yield (the
volume of material that you can expect after mixing).

Table 2
2000 Cement and Concrete Institute publication
7.3.3 A MIX FOR INTERIOR WALLS
Because internal mortar is not exposed to the elements, the mix does not have to be as strong as that for
external walls.

Table 3 gives the correct proportions for interior plaster, as well as the approximate yield (the volume of
material that you can expect after mixing).

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Table 3
2000 Cement and Concrete Institute publication

7.4 THE MIXING OF MORTAR

This may be done by machine or by hand. Machine mixing is preferable.

Hand mixing should be done on smooth concrete floor or steel sheet. First spread out the sand about
100 mm thick. Spread the cement uniformly over the sand. Mix the sand and cement dry until the colour
is uniform. Gradually add water while mixing until the right consistence is reached.

The mix is correct when it is like a thick paste that sticks to trowel, but spreads like margarine

7.5 THE WORKABILITY OF MORTAR

This is the relative ease with which the mix can be placed and compacted, and finished. It is the result of
a combination of factors such as: cohesiveness, consistence, plasticity, thickness and orientation of
application (eg horizontal, vertical or overhead). Good workability is essential for successful application,
especially for bedding mortar.

IT IS NOT POSSIBLE TO MEASURE THE WORKABILITY OF MORTAR. WE CAN, HOWEVER, FEEL

IF MIXES FOR THE HAND APPLICATION OF MORTAR FOR BRICKWORK ARE CORRECT BY
DOING THE FOLLOWING:

1. Make up a mixture of sand cement to the required proportions. Add water slowly while mixing
until the consistence is considered satisfactory.

2. Place some of the mix about 100mm thick and 200 mm diameter on a flat steel plate. Holding the
plate horizontal, try to force a trowel through the heap down towards the plate. If the plasticity is
good, the mix will extrude easily around the perimeter of the blade and it will be possible to push
it almost onto the plate (see figure 86). If workability is poor, the trowel will not move down more
than a few millimeters.

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3. Place some of the mix on a trowel, tap the trowel a few times to compact the mix then turn it
upside down. The mix should cling to the trowel but should fall off if it is shaken.

4. The finishability of a plaster mix can be assessed by floating the surface of some of the mix with
the trowel. The surface should not tear if finishability is good.

Figure 86 A workable sand-cement mix.

1998 Brian Addis (160)
7.6 WATER REQUIREMENT

The water requirement of a sand-cement mix is the volume of water required per cubic metre of the mix
to bring to the required consistence. Consistence of sand-cement mixes is not normally measured by
doing the slump test, but it is assessed by eye and by working the mix with a trowel as described in

7.5.

THE WATER REQUIREMENT IS IMPORTANT BECAUSE:

• It affects the water- cement ratio directly. The water – cement ratio determines the potential
strength, sealing properties and durability (life span) of the hardened mix.

• It largely determines the drying shrinkage of the hardened mix which, in turn, determines the
likelihood of cracking.
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THE WATER REQUIREMENT IS AFFECTED BY PROPERTIES OF THE SAND, NAMELY:

• Fineness modulus

• Particle shape

• Particle surface texture

THE WATER REQUIREMENT MAY BE MEASURED AS FOLLOWS:

Mix known masses of cement and dry sand at the required ratio until the colour is uniform.

Add water gradually while mixing until the desired consistence (e.g. suitable for bricklaying) is achieved,
noting down how much water is being used.

This (what you have written down) will be the required quantity of water to use for this batch of cement
and dry sand.

In the practice, the rule-of-thumb method is near enough, considering the differences in the thickness of
the applied mix, and also considering wastage. The wastage referred to is the water that runs away from
the mix while mixing is done by hand. This is obviously not a problem if the mortar is mixed in a
mechanical mixer.

7.7 BEDDING MORTARS FOR WALLING

These mortars are used to form the horizontal (bed) and vertical joints (perpends) between masonry
units (bricks or blocks). In the fresh state, bedding mortars must be highly workable or plastic (but not
liquid) so that a brick can be easily pushed down into its correct position, so that the mortar and the brick
make full contact with each other. In the hardened state these mortars must not shrink excessively or be
too absorbent.

The main cause of hair cracks between mortar bed and bricks is the shrinkage of the mortar before and
during setting. Such cracking can be limited by making the mortar bed as thin as practicable. Additional
weather- proofing can be achieved by first letting the mortar set, and then running a pointing tool
(formed of a 8 mm round steel rod) along the joints in such a way as to force the mortar against the
bricks.

Excessive suction in clay bricks should be controlled by wetting the bricks before laying them. Concrete
blocks should not be wet when used. Concrete blocks are built in a dry state in order to keep shrinkage,
once in the wall, to a minimum. Clay bricks (of good quality), on the other hand, change only slightly with
changing moisture content. Shrinkage, when they dry out is therefore not important.

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We have discussed the constituents that make up mortar. You must remember the most important
details of the mix proportions. Poor mortar mixes will cause cracking and much money can be lost as a
result thereof. We will now discuss plaster, which can either beautify a home, or make it look ugly.

7.8 PLASTER

Plaster is used on walls and ceilings to produce a neat surface that is normally flat and smooth. In some
cases, however, surfaces may be curved or textured.

This section deals with normal applications of plaster. Special applications such as squash courts and
swimming pools are outside the scope of this unit.

7.8.1 REQUIREMENTS OF PLASTER.

Plaster has important requirements in the fresh state and the hardened state.

In the fresh state, plaster must be workable and cohesive, meaning that it must be plastic, and have
good water retention (it must not lose water easily).

The properties of fresh plaster depend on the materials used, especially the sand, and on the mix
proportions.

In the hardened state, the plaster must be:

▪ Strong enough to withstand local impact and abrasion

▪ Free of unsightly cracking

• Well bonded to the substrate

• Have an acceptable surface texture

• Have acceptable surface accuracy.

The properties of hardened plaster depend on the properties of the fresh plaster and the substrate and
on workmanship.

7.8.2 SELECTING MATERIALS FOR THE PLASTER MIX

CEMENT

The choice of cement should be based on the properties of the sand

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SAND

Sand provides most of the volume of a plaster mix and has an important effect on mix properties and
cost.

In South Africa, natural sands include: pit sand, river sand and dune sands, which are widely used for
plaster mixes.

It is essential that sand should be free of organic matter such as roots and twigs.

IMPORTANT PROPERTIES OF SANDS ARE:

• Grading

• Maximum particle size

• Clay content

THE GRADING OF PLASTER SAND

Ideally, the sand should have a continuous grading from dust to the largest particle. The fractions
passing 0,15 and 0,075 mm sieves “fines” are the parts of the sand that retain water.

Increasing these fractions, that is the fines content, results in an increased water requirement. However,
this results in lower strength and higher shrinkage, but workability and water retention is improved.

The best fines content is therefore a compromise between these properties.

For conventional smooth plaster, all the sand should pass through a sieve with 2,36mm square openings.
For coarsely- textured decorative work the sieve size is 4,75mm.

Oversize particles (and lumps) should be removed by sieving.

CLAY CONTENT

Only a small portion of clay can be tolerated in plaster sand. The clay content of plaster sand may be
tested as follows:

- Sift the sand through a 0,075 mm sieve

- Moisten the granules that pass through the sieve

- Try to roll the paste into a thread about 3 mm or less in diameter.

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- If this is possible, the clay content of the plaster sand is too high.

Plaster mixes made with such sands are:

- Very “fatty” and tend to cling to a trowel.

- Have a high water requirement.

7.8.3 MIX PROPORTIONS

In table 4 we see mix proportions for plaster. Notice that there are proportions given when all purpose
cement is used.

In the first table we have mix A, which is for exterior walls exposed to dampness. For our course we will
only consider the mixes when all purpose cement is used.

Table 4 Mix proportions for exterior plaster.

2000 Cement and Concrete Institute publication

In table 5 we have mix B, which is for dry, interior walls.

Table 5 Mix proportions for interior plaster.

2000 Cement and Concrete Institute publication

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7.8.4 IMPORTANT PROPERTIES OF, AND TECHNIQUES TO PREPARE SURFACES TO BE

PLASTERED (SUBSTRATES).
ACCURACY

In new work, surface preparation starts with accurate setting out and construction of walls and soffits.

A soffit is the underside of any opening in a wall. When you open a door, touch the horizontal
surface of the head of the door opening. You will be feeling the soffit of the opening

The substrate (surface to be plastered) should be accurate enough to be plastered to the required lines
by applying a coat (or coats) of uniform thickness. Excessively thick plaster, or plaster of uneven
thickness should not be used to hide inaccurate work. Where parts of the substrate surface are higher
than the required surface by more than about 10mm, the first option is remove high areas by hacking or
cutting. If this is not practicable, apply undercoats to low areas in such a way that the final coat is of
uniform thickness.

STRENGTH

For new work, the bricks must be strong enough to survive handling and transportation without being
damaged. They must also be strong enough to hold the plaster once they have been built in.

ROUGHNESS

Substrate surfaces should ideally be at least as rough as coarse sandpaper or as rough as rough-sawn
timber. Preferably use bricks which have grooves or keys, specially made to hold plaster. An example of
such a ribbed brick is shown in figure 87.

Figure 87 A ribbed brick for plastering

1990 A. Grobbelaar: Building Standards and Graphic Standards

Surface roughness can be achieved in one of the following ways:

- Using formwork with rough surface, eg sawn timber, for concrete. See figure 88.

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Figure 88 A concrete surface cast against timber, with a rough appearance.

1998 Brian Addis (196)

- Removing formwork early and wire brushing the concrete
- Hacking
- Abrasive blasting (sand blasting)
- Raking out mortar joints in masonry to provide a key (a depth of about 10 mm is normally enough).
- Applying a spatterdash layer
Spatterdash is a mixture of one part of cement to one and a half parts of coarse sand with enough water
for a sluggishly pourable consistence. A bonding liquid (key) may be substituted for part of the mixing
water, in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. The mixture is thrown with some force, using a
scoop or trowel against the substrate surface. (The impact drives out the water film at the meeting
between spatterdash and substrate and hence provides adhesion). The spatterdash should cover the
substrate surface completely and form a rough texture with high spots about 5 mm high.

CLEANLINESS

The surface must be free of loose material, such as dust, and films that can interfere with bonding.

Background surfaces may be cleaned by:

- Water jetting

- Blowing with (oil-free) compressed air

- Vacuum cleaning

Solvents should not be used to remove films formed by release agents or curing compounds (Such films
must be removed by mechanical means).

ABSORPTION

First assess absorptiveness by throwing about a cup full of water against the surface.

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The surface will fall into one of the three categories:

A. No water absorbed

B. Some water is absorbed but most runs off

C. Most of the water is absorbed.

Category A surfaces (no water absorbed) - Which would include hard-burnt clay face bricks, glazed
bricks and very dense high-strength concrete, should be prepared by applying a spatterdash coat that
includes a bonding agent. Such surfaces must not be pre-wetted.

Category B surfaces (some water is absorbed but most runs off) - Should not require any treatment to
control suction of water by the bricks.

Category C surfaces (most of the water is absorbed) - Should be wetted thoroughly and then allowed
to become surface dry before the plaster is applied.

7.8.5 APPLICATION OF PLASTER

WITH REFERNCE TO PLASTER THICKNESS, THE RECOMMENDED THICKNESSES ARE:

First undercoat: 10-15 mm

Second undercoat: 5 -10 mm

Finish coat: 5 – 10 mm

If the plaster is applied in a single coat, thickness should be 10 -15 mm. A single coat must not be thicker
than 15 mm.

APPLYING PLASTER

Never work in direct sun. Plastering should be protected from the sun and drying winds.

The plaster should be used up within two hours of being mixed and never be retempered by mixing in
additional water.

Ensure that the plaster is not continuous across the line of a damp-proof course or movement joint,
remember discussing this in unit 3? Plaster should be cut through where the substrate materials meet,
e.g brickwork and concrete, and the edge neatly finished off.

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THE GENERAL PROCEDURE FOR APPLYING PLASTER IS AS FOLLOWS.

For accurate work, apply screed strips before the wall is plastered. These are narrow strips of plaster
along the perimeter of the wall or ceiling, or at suitable intervals, that act as guides for the striker board.
Using a rectangular plasterer’s trowel, push plaster onto the wall or ceiling using heavy pressure to
compact the plaster and ensure full contact with the substrate.

The plaster should be slightly proud of the intended surface (it should stick out a little). Once the plaster
starts to stiffen, it should be struck off with a straight edge (a light striker board). Material removed in this
way should be discarded.

If plaster is to be applied in more than one coat, the undercoat(s) should be scored (scratched) with
roughly parallel lines about 20mm apart and 5 mm deep.

The purpose of scoring is twofold:

- To provide a key for the next coat.

- To distribute cracking so that it is less noticeable.

For the final coat, use a wood float to remove ridges made by the striker board. At the same time fill in
any depressions (low areas) and float these areas level with the surrounding plaster.

If a very smooth texture is required, a steel trowel may be used on the surface. Such a surface is,
however, not generally recommended because it tends to craze (will discuss in 8.7.6) and show up
imperfections.

Various decorative finishes are also possible. Techniques include brushing, flicking plaster onto the
surface and lightly floating.

PRECAUTIONS TO OBSERVE WHEN PLASTERING

- Mix only enough to use in one hour.

- Discard stiff plaster – mix fresh batch.

- Plaster small areas at a time.

- Complete a whole wall in one operation.

- Cover with plastic of a fine spray to keep it damp for as long as possible, eg 7 days

7.8.6 DEFECTS IN PLASTERING (Non – structural cracks)

- Crazing: fine cracks – hexagonal, 5 to 75 mm across, is usually the result of over-trowelling a rich mix.
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This type of non-structural cracking is shown in figure 89.

Figure 89 Crazing of plaster

2007 A photograph taken by the materials developer.
It often occurs within a few hours of plastering.

- May not become visible until dust or dirt accumulates.

- Map cracking: similar to crazing but deeper and may measure up to 200 mm across.
It is caused by an over- rich mixture allowed to dry too quickly in the sun or wind or badly- graded sand.

7.8.7 DEFECTS IN PLASTERING (Structural cracks)

1. CRACKING OF THE WALL, which may be due to:

- differential movement of the foundations.
- moisture expansion or drying shrinkage of masonry units
- thermal movement of the roof (expansion and contraction).
This often forms in straight horizontal or vertical lines, which are unsightly and may vary with seasons.
Do you remember discussing how seasonal changes may affect foundations in unit 5? It is no good
repairing the plaster.

See figure 90 on below, for a photograph of structural cracks in plaster.

Figure 90 Structural cracks in plaster (ignore the slot with the key in, we will discuss it)

2007 Journal of Construction Volume1 Number 1

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2. DEBONDING:

You hear a hollow sound when surface is tapped. This occurs if the inner skin and outer skin of plaster
shrink at different rates when drying. This is also caused by poor preparation of wall before plastering.

By poor preparation we mean:

- Not using a key, this means that no bonding liquid was used.

– The surface was not clean

– The surface was too dry.

To prevent this, use a bonding liquid (key), or a spatterdash coat first.

3. LACK OF HARDNESS This could be caused by the following:

- Insufficient cement.

- Too much dust in the sand.

- Mix with poor water retention properties.

- Addition of extra water some time after mixing (re-tempering).

- Rapid drying due to sun or wind.

- Expansion: swelling, softening, layer cracking and spalling. This is usually because of inclusion of
gypsum-based products in the mix. Sulphates react with Portland cement. To remedy this, remove the
defective plaster and re-plaster.

- Popping: Cone-shaped fragments break out of plaster leaving holes – caused by contaminants, e.g.
seeds. Repair with a filler.

7.9 SCREEDS

Screed is a mixture of one part of cement and four parts of building sand is applied to the concrete
surface bed to provide a smooth flat floor surface. Builders usually call this the topping.

PROPERTIES OF SCREEDS

- May be applied to concrete slab or surface bed – bonded screeds

- May be applied while concrete is being placed – monolithic screeds

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- Bonded screed needs a good concrete base, free of cracking, with a reasonably even, horizontal
surface. The surface must also be clean and free of oil and dust, etc.

- Thickness of screed – about 25 mm (between 15 and 40 mm thick).

PREPARATION

Chip the base material and /or scrabble with power tools (pecking with pick- axe is inadequate)

MIXING THE GROUT

Mix grout: equal parts of cement and fine sand, mixed with water to consistence of PVA paint – stirred
continuously and used within 30 minutes of mixing.

APPLYING THE GROUT

- The day before, test the concrete base with a cup of water. If the water is being absorbed then the
suction of the concrete is too high. The following steps must be taken in such a case:

- Wet, and keep wet for 4 hours.

- Allow to become visibly dry – apply the grout

- Apply grout with a stiff brush to get into roughness of concrete.

- Apply grout in small areas. Now apply the screed while the grout is visibly wet

SCREED MATERIALS

- Screed materials: Building sand (not plaster sand) not more than 5 mm.

- 1 part cement: 3, 5 parts dry sand by mass

- Mix for not less than 3 minutes.

- Machine mixing is preferable.

Hand mixing: sand and cement mixed before water added.

APPLICATION

- Place in strips 3m to 4m wide and compact.

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- Time from mixing to finishing compaction should not be more than 45 minutes.

FINISHES

- Ordinary non-slip left as finished with wooden floats

- Steel-trowelled: for hard, smooth finish, after bleeding has ceased, all bleed water has evaporated or
been removed, the surface has started to stiffen.

- Hard non-slip: Steel- trowelled and lightly textured.

CURING

- Cover with plastic sheeting for at least 7 days.

- Raise plastic sheet off the screed.

- Light foot traffic may be allowed 24 hours after finishing, provided plastic is not damaged.

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7.10 WORKSHEET

1. State the mix proportions for mortar for exterior and interior walls, in terms of bags of cement and
wheelbarrows of building sand, when all-purpose cement is used. [4]

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2. Explain in detail how the hand mixing of mortar is done. [5]

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3. Explain how to assess the workability of mortar that has already been mixed. [4]

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4. Explain why the water content of a mortar mix is important. [2]

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5. Describe two ways avoid hair cracks between the mortar beds and bricks. [4]

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6. Describe three properties of good plaster. [3]

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7. Explain how you will test if plaster sand has too high a clay content. [3]
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8. State the mix proportions for plaster for exterior and interior walls, in terms of bags of cement and
wheelbarrows of plaster sand, when all-purpose cement is used. [4]

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9. When one prepares a wall for plaster, the absorptiveness of the wall must be assessed. This is done
by throwing about a cup full of water against the surface.

9.1 What should be done to the wall before applying plaster if no water is absorbed by the wall? [3]

9.2 What should be done to the wall before applying plaster if most of the water is absorbed by the
wall? [2]

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10. State five precautions to observe when plastering. [5]

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11. State three causes of debonding of plaster from the substrate (wall). [3]

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12. Give any three causes of the plastering defect: Lack of hardness. [3]

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13. Explain how grout is to be mixed before the screed is applied. [5]

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14. When the concrete floor to be grouted was tested, it was found that a cup of water was absorbed by
the floor. This showed that the suction of the concrete was too high.

State what one should do to the floor before applying the grout for the screed. [3]

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15. Explain how screed is to be cured. [3]

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