Invisible Stranding in The Round
Invisible Stranding in The Round
back-side netting over areas in your garment that has very long floats, anyway:
This is an awesome colorwork knitting technique for when you have to deal with long floats, as in motif
knitting.
I find it far easier to work with 2-4 colors at the same time, than
the backside layer will bulge out over your frontside stockinette in
the length).
You can combine this technique with for instance Fair Isle in the
same round, for instance Fair Isle for the steek or on the Deer Socks, toe, sole and heel is in Fair Isle,
It is long and not that easy to hear, but below are my notes on how it is worked in the video + my ovn
notes/suggestions:
- The back layer are all the looong floats, that are held together by singular spaced out purls. You can see the
effect of the purl stitch if you follow the link to youtube and do not press play, just look at the picture in the link.
My notes: purling the floats makes the smoothest back side of your garment, but if that doesn´t matter much,
knitting the floats together might be easier for you – try it out and decide for yourself
My notes: you are not increasing the circumference of your knitting, the yarn overs are the basic stitches to make
You can have more or less stitches between you yarn-overs, depending on your gauge or the pattern – for the
Worked with BC and the first color you will use in your stitch pattern (PC)
*K5 with BC, turn the yarn-over on your left needle to avoid holes, P1 with PC* repeat from *to * in the full round.
My notes: make sure that you do not twine BC and PC. If you knit continental style, place both yarns on your index
I find it easier and a bit better looking to work the yo-s in Ktbl
*K5 in the intarsia pattern, purl all floats together in one stitch* repeat from *to * in the full round.
When you have finished the stitch pattern and either continue in one yarn or in a stich pattern with shorter
floats:
Only with BC: *slip 5, P1* repeat from *to * in the full round.
Ny notes: I consequently k this stitch instead of p, as it makes a nicer transition in the next round
*Knit to next backside-purl, knit next frontside stich + the backside purl together*.
- tighten the stitch before and after the backside stitch a bit, to avoid laddering.
- if first stich after a backside-stitch is in a new color: put new color to the front of work and then purl (or knit)
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Yarn and needles: any as long as needle size matches yarn weight/meters pr 100 grams.
If you prefer to work by charts: Cast on 12 stitches with white (W) in your favorite way. Repeat chart 4 times for
a full round and follow texted version lines 15-23 for the Invisible Stranding instructions.
If you prefer to work by text: it might still help you in the process to look at the chart: the vertical red line
marks where you work your back-side layer and anchor your floats invisibly. The chart is repeated 4 times in the
round.
Pattern as text
NOTE: repeat the instructions 4 times in each round, advice: put in markers or change DPNS after each
repeat.
Round 1: Knit while distributing the stitches to your needles and join to work in the round. (3 sts)
Round 15, first setting up round for Invisible stranding: K1, k tbl,
laddering.
Rounds 21 and 22: [Bk3, Wk1, Bp1, Wk1, Bk3, Wp1]x2. When done, break W yarn.
Closing of round and from here on in B yarn only: [slip4, k1]x full round (this round to make avoid the W showing
Round 23, here you join front and back layer: k4 [k2tog, k3]x full round
Round 26: K last stitch from round 23 ad first stitch of round 26 together, ssk, k11, k2tog. (14 sts)
Note: now might be a good time to start filling the ball with some pillow filling and continue doing so, regularly
over the next rounds, while you still have ample space to do that.
Fill more stuffing into ball, if necessary, eventually make a (crochet) loop for hanging, break yarn ad pull through
stitches
You can work the motif on all 4 sides or combine with other motifs of your
https://www.pinterest.dk/citasteinmeier/julekugler/
Right in the pic are a pair of socks that I designed. They are worked toe-up, with embossed travelling stitches and
purls on the foot and I wanted that part to merge into the knits-only leg and then merge back to structure in the
cuff.
It is 6 rows of rather concentrated knitting, to avoid twisting the 2 yarns, you really have to observe where the
And very difficult to describe in the pattern – especially if it is the first time you work Invisible Stranding, so I
came up with these 2 balls for practicing … not quite solving my writing problem, so today (May 2020) they have
But the ball is still a good way to practice the technique and to explore its many options.
How to work the cross- stitches (Embossed traveling stitches or faux 1/1 cable)
Cross-left: Slip first stitch, turn it anti clockwise and put it back on your left needle.
Take your right needle behind that stitch and knit the next one, but leave it on the needle.
Cross-right: Knit both stitches together but leave them on our left needle. From the left side, knit the rear stitch
in the round.
Note: the vertical red line marks where you work your back-