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GETTING READY

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SEWING BASICS

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UTILITY STITCHES
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APPENDIX
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Operation Manual
Computerized Sewing Machine
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Important Safety Instructions

Please read these safety instructions before attempting to use the machine.
This machine is intended for household use.

DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1 Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet immediately after using, when cleaning,
when making any user servicing adjustments mentioned in this manual, or if you are leaving the
machine unattended.

WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons.

2 Always unplug the machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or
when making any adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual:
• To unplug the machine, switch the machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off, then grasp
the plug and pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do not pull on the cord.
• Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet. Do not use an extension cord.
• Always unplug your machine if the power is cut.

3 Never operate this machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has
been dropped or damaged, or water is spilled on the unit. Return the machine to the nearest
authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
While the machine is stored or in use if you notice anything unusual, such an odor, heat,
discoloration or deformation, stop using the machine and immediately unplug the power cord.
When transporting the sewing machine, be sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting the sewing
machine by any other part may damage the machine or result in the machine falling, which could
cause injuries.
When lifting the sewing machine, be careful not to make any sudden or careless movements,
otherwise you may injure your back or knees.

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4 Always keep your work area clear:

• Never operate the machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the
sewing machine and foot control free from the build up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
• Do not store objects on the foot controller.
• Do not use extension cords. Plug the machine directly into the electrical outlet.
• Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
• Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being
administered.
• Do not use the machine near a heat source, such as a stove or iron; otherwise, the machine,
power cord or garment being sewn may ignite, resulting in fire or an electric shock.
• Do not place this sewing machine on an unstable surface, such as an unsteady or slanted table,
otherwise the sewing machine may fall, resulting in injuries.

5 Special care is required when sewing:

• Always pay close attention to the needle. Do not use bent or damaged needles.
• Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the machine needle.
• Switch the sewing machine to the symbol “O” position to turn it off when making any adjustments
in the needle area.
• Do not use a damaged or incorrect needle plate, as it could cause the needle to break.
• Do not push or pull the fabric when sewing, and follow careful instruction when freehand stitching
so that you do not deflect the needle and cause it to break.
6 This machine is not a toy:
• Your close attention is necessary when the machine is used by or near children.
• The plastic bag that this sewing machine was supplied in should be kept out of the reach of
children or disposed of. Never allow children to play with the bag due to the danger of
suffocation.
• Do not use outdoors.

7 For a longer service life:

• When storing this machine, avoid direct sunlight and high humidity locations. Do not use or store
the machine near a space heater, iron, halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
• Use only neutral soaps or detergents to clean the case. Benzene, thinner, and scouring powders
can damage the case and machine, and should never be used.
• Always consult the operation manual when replacing or installing any assemblies, the presser feet,
needle, or other parts to assure correct installation.

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8 For repair or adjustment:

• If the Light unit (light-emitting diode) is damaged, it must be replaced by authorized dealer.
• In the event a malfunction occurs or adjustment is required, first follow the troubleshooting table
in the back of the operation manual to inspect and adjust the machine yourself. If the problem
persists, please consult your local authorized Brother dealer.
Use this machine only for its intended use as described in this manual.

Use accessories recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

Save these instructions.

The contents of this manual and specifications of this product are subject to change without notice.

For additional product information, visit our web site at www.brother.com

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FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY

IMPORTANT
• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the
mark, rating as marked on plug.
• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with the fuse cover omitted.
• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the plug supplied with this equipment, you
should contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct lead.

FOR USERS IN AUSTRALIA AND NEW ZEALAND

This sewing machine is not intended to be used by young children, and assistance may be required if
used by a person with a disability.

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Contents

Important Safety Instructions ..............................................................................................1

Introduction ........................................................................................................................8
Sewing Machine Features ....................................................................................................8
Accessories..........................................................................................................................9
Included accessories ......................................................................................................................................... 9
Optional accessories ....................................................................................................................................... 10
Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions ...................................................................11

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Machine.......................................................................................................................................................... 11
Needle and presser foot section ...................................................................................................................... 12
Operation buttons ........................................................................................................................................... 12
Operation panel.............................................................................................................................................. 13

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GETTING READY 15
Turning the Machine On/Off.............................................................................................16
Power supply precautions ............................................................................................................................... 16
Turning on the machine .................................................................................................................................. 17
Turning off the machine .................................................................................................................................. 17
Understanding the LCD Screens........................................................................................18
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Changing the Machine Settings .........................................................................................19
Changing the settings ...................................................................................................................................... 19
Adjusting the brightness of the LCD ................................................................................................................ 21
Winding/Installing the Bobbin...........................................................................................22
Bobbin precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 22
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Winding the bobbin ........................................................................................................................................22

Installing the bobbin ....................................................................................................................................... 26
Upper Threading ...............................................................................................................28
Threading the upper thread ............................................................................................................................. 28
Threading the needle ...................................................................................................................................... 31
Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader) ................................................................ 33
Using the twin needle ..................................................................................................................................... 33
Pulling up the bobbin thread........................................................................................................................... 36
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Replacing the Needle ........................................................................................................37

Needle precautions ......................................................................................................................................... 37
Needle types and their uses............................................................................................................................. 38
Checking the needle ....................................................................................................................................... 39
Replacing the needle....................................................................................................................................... 39
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Replacing the Presser Foot ................................................................................................41

Presser foot precautions .................................................................................................................................. 41
Replacing the presser foot ............................................................................................................................... 41
Removing the presser foot holder .................................................................................................................... 43
Using the optional walking foot ...................................................................................................................... 44
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces....................................................................................46
Stitching cylindrical pieces.............................................................................................................................. 46
Sewing large pieces of fabric ........................................................................................................................... 46

SEWING BASICS 49
Sewing...............................................................................................................................50
General sewing procedure .............................................................................................................................. 50
Positioning the fabric ...................................................................................................................................... 51
Starting to sew................................................................................................................................................. 52
Securing the stitching ...................................................................................................................................... 54
Cutting the thread ........................................................................................................................................... 56

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Adjusting the Thread Tension ............................................................................................57

Changing the tension of the upper thread ........................................................................................................ 57
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ..............................................................................58
Adjusting the stitch width ................................................................................................................................ 58
Adjusting the stitch length ............................................................................................................................... 59
Useful Functions................................................................................................................60
Changing the needle stop position .................................................................................................................. 60
Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches................................................................................................ 60
Useful Sewing Tips ............................................................................................................62
Trial sewing .................................................................................................................................................... 62
Changing the sewing direction ................................................................................................................................. 62
Sewing curves ................................................................................................................................................. 62
Sewing thick fabrics ........................................................................................................................................62
Sewing thin fabrics.......................................................................................................................................... 63
Sewing stretch fabrics...................................................................................................................................... 63
Sewing an even seam allowance ..................................................................................................................... 64

UTILITY STITCHES 65
Selecting Stitching .............................................................................................................66
Selecting stitch types and patterns ................................................................................................................... 66
Selecting stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 67
Overcasting Stitches..........................................................................................................71
Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G” ................................................................................... 71
Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”............................................................................................. 72
Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter ............................................................................... 73
Basic Stitching ...................................................................................................................75
Basic stitching ................................................................................................................................................. 75
Blind Hem Stitching ..........................................................................................................77
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing..................................................................................79
Buttonhole sewing .......................................................................................................................................... 80
Button sewing ................................................................................................................................................. 84
Zipper Insertion.................................................................................................................86
Inserting a centered zipper .............................................................................................................................. 86
Inserting a side zipper ..................................................................................................................................... 88
Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape ............................................................................91
Stretch stitching............................................................................................................................................... 91
Elastic attaching .............................................................................................................................................. 91
Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching ..........................................................................93
Appliqué stitching ........................................................................................................................................... 94
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching ..................................................................................................................... 95
Piecing ............................................................................................................................................................ 95
Quilting .......................................................................................................................................................... 96
Free-motion quilting........................................................................................................................................97
Satin stitching using the sewing speed controller ............................................................................................. 98
Reinforcement Stitching ..................................................................................................100
Triple stretch stitching ................................................................................................................................... 100
Bar tack stitching........................................................................................................................................... 100
Eyelet Stitching................................................................................................................102
Decorative Stitching........................................................................................................103
Fagoting ........................................................................................................................................................ 104
Scallop stitching ............................................................................................................................................ 105
Smocking ...................................................................................................................................................... 105
Shell tuck stitching ........................................................................................................................................ 106
Joining .......................................................................................................................................................... 107
Heirloom stitching ........................................................................................................................................ 107
Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns.............................................................110
Sewing beautiful patterns .............................................................................................................................. 110
Sewing patterns ............................................................................................................................................. 110

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Combining patterns ....................................................................................................................................... 111

Repeat sewing patterns.................................................................................................................................. 112
Checking the selected pattern ....................................................................................................................... 112
Mirror imaging the pattern ............................................................................................................................ 113
Saving patterns.............................................................................................................................................. 114
Retrieving a pattern ....................................................................................................................................... 115
Realigning the pattern ................................................................................................................................... 116

APPENDIX 119
Stitch Settings..................................................................................................................120
Utility stitches ............................................................................................................................................... 120
Other stitches................................................................................................................................................ 124
Care and Maintenance ....................................................................................................126
Cleaning the machine surface ................................................................................................................................ 126
Cleaning the race .......................................................................................................................................... 126
Removing the needle plate ............................................................................................................................ 127
Troubleshooting ..............................................................................................................128
Error messages .............................................................................................................................................. 132
Nothing appears in the LCD .......................................................................................................................... 134
Operation beep ............................................................................................................................................. 134
Cancelling the operation beep ............................................................................................................................... 134
Index ................................................................................................................................136

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Introduction
Thank you for purchasing this sewing machine. Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the
“Important Safety Instructions” (page 1), and then study this manual for the correct operation of the
various functions. In addition, after you have finished reading this manual, store it where it can quickly be
accessed for future reference.

Sewing Machine Features

a Easy upper threading

Since the spool can be installed at the front of the sewing machine, the upper thread can easily be threaded. In addition,
the needle can be threaded with a simple operation (page 28).
b One-touch lower threading
You can start sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread (page 26).
c Simple bobbin-winding
The bobbin can quickly and easily be wound with thread (page 22).
d Built-in stitches
You can select from the built-in stitches available, including utility stitches, character stitches and decorative stitches.

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Accessories
After opening the box, check that the following accessories are included. If any item is missing or
damaged, contact your dealer.

Included accessories
The following items should also be included in the box.

Note
(For U.S.A. only)
z Foot controller: Model T
This foot controller can be used on this machine model
NS80.
z The screw for the presser foot holder is available
through your authorized dealer.
(Part code: XA4813-051)

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

10.* 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18.

19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25.

26. 27. 28. * 75/11 2 needles

90/14 2 needles
90/14 2 needles: Ball point needle
(gold colored)

Part Code Part Code

No. Part Name U.S.A./ No. Part Name U.S.A./
Others Others
Canada Canada
1 Buttonhole foot “A” XC2691-033 16 Spool cap (large) 130012-054
2 Overcasting foot “G” XC3098-031 17 Spool cap (medium) XE1372-001
3 Monogramming foot “N” XD0810-031 18 Spool cap (small) 130013-154
4 Zipper foot “I” X59370-021 19 Extra spool pin XE2241-001
5 Zigzag foot “J” (on machine) XC3021-051 20 Spool net XA5523-020
6 Blind stitch foot “R” X56409-051 XD0501-021 (EU area)
21 Foot controller
7 Button fitting foot “M” 130489-001 XC8816-021 (other areas)
8 Seam ripper X54243-051 22 Operation manual XE2408-001
9 Bobbin (4) SA156 SFB (XA5539-151) 23 Quick reference guide XE2416-001
10 Needle set X58358-021 24 Accessory bag XC4487-021
11 Twin needle X59296-121 25 Disc-shaped screwdriver XC1074-051
12 Cleaning brush X59476-021 26 Stitch pattern plate XE2441-001
13 Eyelet punch 135793-001 27 Stitch pattern plate holder XE2238-001
14 Screwdriver (large) XC8349-051 28 Hard case XE2446-001
15 Screwdriver (small) X55648-051

Accessories 9
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■ Attaching the stitch pattern plate

The stitch pattern plate shows the stitches and the stitch numbers. A letter (A, G, J, N or R) indicating the
presser foot that should be used appears below the stitch number. Attach the stitch pattern plate to the stitch
pattern plate holder, and then attach the holder to the handle of the sewing machine as shown in the
illustration below.

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Optional accessories

1. 2.
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The following are available as optional accessories.
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4. 5. 6. 7.
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8. 9. 10. 11.
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Part Code Part Code

No. Part Name U.S.A./ No. Part Name U.S.A./
Others Others
Canada Canada
1 Side cutter SA177 F054 7 Non stick foot SA114 F007N
(XC3879-002) (XC1949-002)
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F016N F027N
2 Quilting guide SA132 8 Open toe foot SA147
(XC2215-002) (XC1964-002)
WT8 F035N
3 Wide table SA552 (XE2472-001) 9 Stitch guide foot “P” SA160 (XC1969-002)
F033N F001N
4 Walking foot SA140 (XC2214-002) 10 1/4 inch quilting foot SA125 (XC1944-052)

SA129 F005N 11 1/4

inch quilting foot with
5 Quilting foot SA185 F057
(XC1948-002) guide (XC7416-252)
F036N
6 Adjustable zipper/piping foot SA161 (XC1970-002)

Memo
z To obtain optional accessories or parts, contact the nearest authorized dealership.
z All specifications are correct at the time of printing. The part codes are subject to change without
notice.
z Visit your Brother dealer for a complete listing of optional accessories available for your machine.

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Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions

The names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before
using the sewing machine, carefully read these descriptions to learn the names of the machine parts.

Machine

a Bobbin winder (page 22) j Handwheel

Use the bobbin winder when winding the bobbin. Turn the handwheel toward you to sew one stitch or to
b Spool pin (page 22, 28) raise or lower the needle.
Place a spool of thread on the spool pin. k Main power switch (page 17)
c Thread tension dial (page 57) Use this switch to turn the sewing machine on and off.
Use the thread tension dial to adjust the tension of the l Power supply jack (page 17)
upper thread. Insert the plug on the power cord into the power supply
d Bobbin-winding thread guide and pretension disk (page jack.
22) m Foot controller jack (page 52)
Pass the thread around this thread guide and around the Insert the plug on the end of the foot controller cable
pretension disk when winding the bobbin thread. into the foot controller jack.
e Thread take-up lever (page 30) n Feed dog position switch (page 85)
Slide the thread into the thread take-up lever from the Use this switch to lower the feed dogs.
right side of slot to the left side of slot. o Presser foot lever (page 28)
f Thread cutter (page 56) Raise and lower this lever to raise and lower the presser
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut them. foot.
g Flatbed attachment (page 46) p Thread guide (page 24)
Store presser feet and bobbins in the flatbed attachment. Pass the thread under this thread guide when winding
Remove the flatbed attachment when sewing cylindrical the bobbin thread and threading the machine.
pieces such as sleeve cuffs. q Thread guide cover (page 24)
h Operation buttons (page 12) Pass the thread under this thread guide when winding
Use these buttons and the slider to start the sewing the bobbin thread and threading the machine.
machine and raise and lower the needle. r Air vent
i Operation panel (page 13) This vent allows the air surrounding the motor to
Use to select stitches and various other stitch settings. circulate.
s Handle
Carry the sewing machine by its handle when
transporting the machine.

Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions 11

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Needle and presser foot section

d Presser foot holder screw

Use the presser foot holder screw to hold the presser
foot in place.
e Presser foot
The presser foot applies pressure to the fabric during
sewing. Attach the appropriate presser foot for the
selected stitch.
f Needle plate cover
Remove the needle plate cover to clean the bobbin case
and race.
g Feed dogs
The feed dogs feed the fabric.
h Quick lower threader
Begin sewing without pulling up the bobbin thread.
i Bobbin cover/race
Remove the bobbin cover to insert the bobbin into the
race.
j Needle plate
The needle plate is marked with guides to help sew
straight seams.
k Needle bar thread guide
Pass the upper thread through the needle bar thread
a Needle threader lever guide.
Use the needle threader to thread the needle. l Presser foot lever
b Buttonhole lever Raise and lower this lever to raise and lower the presser
Lower the buttonhole lever when sewing buttonholes foot.
and bar tacks. m Needle clamp screw
c Presser foot holder Use the needle clamp screw to hold the needle in place.
The presser foot is attached to the presser foot holder.

Operation buttons
The operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.

a Start/stop button c Needle position button

Press the start/stop button to start or stop sewing. The Press the needle position button to raise or lower the
machine sews at a low speed at the beginning of sewing needle. Pressing the button twice sews one stitch.
while the button is continuously pressed. When sewing d Sewing speed controller
is stopped, the needle is lowered into the fabric. For Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or right to
details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page 52). adjust the sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to reduce
b Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
the sewing speed, or slide the speed controller to the
Press the reverse/reinforcement stitch button to sew
right to increase the sewing speed.
reverse stitches or reinforcement stitches. Reverse
stitches are sewn by keeping the button pressed down to
sew in the opposite direction. Reinforcement stitches
are sewn by sewing 3 to 5 stitches on top of each other.
For details, refer to “Securing the stitching” (page 54).

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Operation panel
The operation panel, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, consists of the LCD (liquid crystal
display) and keys for specifying various sewing settings.

1
2
3
5 7
4
6
8

A B
C D

a LCD (liquid crystal display) ■ Stitch mode keys (h-j)

Settings for the selected stitch and error messages for
incorrect operations appear in the LCD. Use keys b h Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key
and f through n, described below, to display various Press this key to select the utility stitch assigned to a
items and select the settings. For details, refer to numeric key or to retrieve a pattern that has been saved.
“Understanding the LCD Screens” (page 18). Each time this key is pressed, the machine switches
b Settings key between the preset utility stitch mode and the saved
pattern mode.
Press this key to select sewing settings, such as for left/
right mirror imaging, or other settings such as the i Utility stitch key
operation beep.
Press this key to select a straight stitch, zigzag stitch,
buttonhole, blind hem stitch, decorative stitch, satin
c Needle position key
stitch, or cross-stitch. Use the numeric keys to type in
Press this key to raise or lower the needle. the number of the desired stitch.

d Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key j Character/utility decorative stitch key

Press this key to select the automatic reverse/ Press this key to select character stitch mode or utility
reinforcement stitching setting. Press this key again to decorative stitch mode, where patterns can be
cancel the setting. combined. Each time this key is pressed, the machine
switches between utility decorative stitch mode and
e Needle mode selection key (single/twin)
character stitch mode.
Press this key to select the twin needle sewing setting.
Each time this key is pressed, the setting switches k Memory key
between single needle sewing and twin needle sewing. Press this key to save stitch patterns, such as combined
f Stitch width keys patterns, in the sewing machine's memory.
Press or to adjust the stitch width setting. l OK key
g Stitch length keys Press this key to apply the selection or perform the
Press or to adjust the stitch length setting. operation.
m Cancel/clear key
Press this key to cancel the operation and return to the
previous screen.
In addition, pressing this key removes the last pattern
added when combining characters or decorative
stitches.
n Numeric keys
Use these keys to quickly select one of the ten most
often used stitches. When selecting other stitches, use
these keys to type in the number of the desired stitch.

Names of Machine Parts and Their Functions 13

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1 GETTING READY

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The various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter.

Turning the Machine On/Off ..................................................................................16

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Power supply precautions ..................................................................................16
Turning on the machine .....................................................................................17
Turning off the machine .....................................................................................17
Understanding the LCD Screens..............................................................................18
Changing the Machine Settings ...............................................................................19
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Changing the settings .........................................................................................19
Adjusting the brightness of the LCD ...................................................................21
Winding/Installing the Bobbin.................................................................................22
Bobbin precautions ............................................................................................22
Winding the bobbin ...........................................................................................22
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Installing the bobbin ..........................................................................................26

Upper Threading .....................................................................................................28
Threading the upper thread................................................................................28
Threading the needle..........................................................................................31
Threading the needle manually (without using the needle threader)..................33
Using the twin needle ........................................................................................33
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Pulling up the bobbin thread..............................................................................36

Replacing the Needle ..............................................................................................37
Needle precautions ............................................................................................37
Needle types and their uses................................................................................38
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Checking the needle...........................................................................................39

Replacing the needle ..........................................................................................39
Replacing the Presser Foot ......................................................................................41
Presser foot precautions .....................................................................................41
Replacing the presser foot ..................................................................................41
Removing the presser foot holder ......................................................................43
Using the optional walking foot .........................................................................44
Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces..........................................................................46
Stitching cylindrical pieces.................................................................................46
Sewing large pieces of fabric..............................................................................46
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

Turning the Machine On/Off

This section explains how to turn the sewing machine on and off.

Power supply precautions

Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the power supply.

WARNING
● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may
result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
● Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and
the power supply jack on the machine.
● Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.
● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
• When you are away from the machine
• After using the machine
• When the power fails during use
• When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
• During electrical storms

CAUTION
● Use only the power cord included with this machine.
● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to
them. Fire or electric shock may result.
● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to
remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric
shock.
● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted,
or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These
things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged,
take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise a
fire may result.

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Turning on the machine Turning off the machine

Prepare the included power cord. When you are finished using the sewing machine,
turn it off. In addition, before transporting the sewing

a off (the main power switch is set to “

Make sure that the sewing machine is turned
”), and
machine to another location, be sure to turn it off. 1
then plug the power cord into the power Make sure that the machine is not sewing.
supply jack on the right side of the machine. a
Press the left side of the main power switch on
Insert the plug of the power cord into a b the right side of the machine (set it to “ ”).
b household electrical outlet.

X The sewing lamp and the LCD go off when

the machine is turned off.

c outlet.
Unplug the power cord from the electrical

Grasp the plug when unplugging the power

a Main power switch cord.
b Power cord
Unplug the power cord from the power supply
Press the right side of the main power switch d jack.
c on the right side of the machine (set it to “|”).

Note
z If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the
sewing machine and unplug the power cord.
When restarting the sewing machine, follow
X The sewing lamp and the LCD come on the necessary procedure to correctly operate
when the machine is turned on. the machine.
(For U.S.A. only)
z This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the
risk of electrical shock, this plug is intended
to fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If
the plug does not fit fully in the outlet,
reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact
a qualified electrician to install the proper
outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

Turning the Machine On/Off 17

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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

Understanding the LCD Screens

The LCD screen, located on the front at the right of the sewing machine, displays the settings for the
selected stitch and error messages if operations are performed incorrectly. The LCD displays the following
information.

1 5

2 6
34 7

a Presser foot that should be used

b Stitch mode
c Twin needle/needle stop position
d Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitches
e Selected stitch
f Stitch length (mm)
g Stitch width (mm)

Memo
z For details on the error messages that appear when an operation is performed incorrectly, refer to “Error
messages” (page 132).

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Changing the Machine Settings

Various sewing machine operations and sewing settings can be changed.

c
Press or (Stitch length keys) until the 1
Changing the settings stitch or machine attribute that you wish to set
is displayed.
The general procedure for changing machine settings
is described below.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

a Stitch length keys

X The LCD comes on.

Press (Settings key) in the operation

b panel.

X The settings screen appears.

Press or (Stitch width keys) until the

d desired setting is selected.

X The setting is changed.

Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear

e key).

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

Changing the Machine Settings 19

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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

■ List of stitch or machine attributes

The stitch or machine attributes that can be set are listed below. For details on each attribute, refer to the
corresponding reference page.

Attribute Icon Details Reference

Check pattern Allows combined patterns to be checked. page 112

Mirror imaging Mirror images patterns along a vertical axis. page 113

m
Repeated/ Specifies whether the pattern will be sewn once or page 112
single sewing repeatedly.

Initial needle Select the straight stitch that is automatically selected -

position when the machine is turned on.

Stitch width
control

Buzzer
.co
Allows the stitch width to be adjusted with the sewing
speed controller.

Specifies whether or not a beep is sounded with each

operation.
page 98

page 134
es
LCD brightness Adjusts the brightness of the LCD. page 21

Vertical pattern Adjusts the up and down position of the pattern. page 116
adjustment
uid

Memo
z The icon shown highlighted above is the default setting.
-g
all

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Adjusting the brightness of

the LCD
The brightness of the LCD can be adjusted.
1
a
Press (Settings key) in the operation
panel, and then press or (Stitch length
keys) until is displayed.

X The screen for changing the brightness of the

LCD appears.

b width key). To make the LCD darker, press

To make the LCD brighter, press (Stitch

(Stitch width key).

X The brightness of the LCD is changed.

Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear

c
key).

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

Changing the Machine Settings 21

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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

Winding/Installing the Bobbin

This section describes how to wind the thread onto the bobbin, and then insert the bobbin thread.

Bobbin precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the bobbin.

CAUTION
● Only use the bobbin (part code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)) designed specifically for this
sewing machine. Use of any other bobbin may result in injuries or damage to the machine.
● The included bobbin was designed specifically for this sewing machine. If bobbins from other
models are used, the machine will not operate correctly. Use only the included bobbin or
bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)).
1 a Actual size
b This model
4 c Other model
d 11.5 mm (7/16 inch)

2 3

Winding the bobbin

Wind the thread around the bobbin to prepare the bobbin thread.

a Hook of the bobbin-winding thread guide

b Pretension disk
c Bobbin winder shaft
d Bobbin

Memo
z The order that the machine should be threaded for winding the bobbin is indicated by a broken line on
the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine as indicated.

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Turn on the sewing machine. Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto
a e the spool pin.
Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is
horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front
at the bottom.
1
b that the spring on the shaft fits into the notch
Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft so

in the bobbin.
Press down on the bobbin until it snaps into • If the spool is not positioned so that the
place. thread unwinds correctly, the thread may
a become tangled around the spool pin.

f Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the

Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.

b right, as shown, with the rounded side on the

left.

a Notch
b Bobbin winder shaft spring

c it snaps into place.

Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right until
CAUTION
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may
become tangled around the spool pin and
Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the
d spool pin.
the needle may break.
● Three spool cap sizes are available (large,
medium and small), allowing you to
a choose a spool cap that best fits the size
of spool being used. If the spool cap is too
small for the spool being used, the thread
may catch on the slit in the spool and the
b needle may break.
a Spool pin
b Spool cap

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 23

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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

Pass the thread under the thread guide cover

Memo h from the back to the front.
z When sewing with fine, cross-wound thread, Hold the thread with your right hand so that
use the small spool cap, and leave a small there is no slack in the thread that is pulled out,
space between the cap and the spool. and then pass the thread under the thread guide
cover with your left hand.
c b

a
a Spool cap (small)
b Spool (cross-wound thread)
c Space
z When using thread that winds off quickly, a
such as transparent nylon thread or metallic
a Thread guide cover
thread, place the spool net over the spool
Pull the thread to the right, pass it under the
i hook of the bobbin-winding thread guide, and
before placing the spool of thread onto the
spool pin.
If the spool net is too long, fold it to fit the then wind the thread counterclockwise
size of the spool. between the discs, pulling it in as far as
When the spool net is used, the tension of possible.
the upper thread will slightly increase. Be
sure to check the thread tension. For details,
refer to “Adjusting the Thread Tension”
(page 57).
1 2
a Hook of the bobbin-winding thread guide
b Pretension disk

Note
z Make sure that the thread passes under the
3 pretension disk.

4
j that was passed through the bobbin-winding
While using your left hand to hold the thread
a Spool net
b Spool thread guide, use your right hand to wind the
c Spool cap
d Spool pin
end of the thread clockwise around the bobbin
five or six times.
While holding the spool with your right hand,
g pull the thread with your left hand, and then
pass the thread under the thread guide.

a Thread guide

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Pass the end of the thread through the slit in When the bobbin winding becomes slow, press
k the bobbin winder seat, and then pull the n (start/stop button) once to stop the
thread to the right to cut it. machine.

CAUTION
● When the bobbin winding becomes slow,
1
a
stop the machine, otherwise the sewing
machine may be damaged.
a Slit in bobbin winder seat (with built-in cutter)
X The thread is cut to a suitable length.
o to the left, and then remove the bobbin from
Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder shaft

m
the shaft.
CAUTION
● Be sure to cut the thread as described. If

.co
the bobbin is wound without cutting the
thread using the cutter built into the slit in
the bobbin winder seat, the bobbin may
not be wound correctly. In addition, the
thread may become tangled in the bobbin
or the needle may bend or break when
the bobbin thread starts to run out.
es
Slide the sewing speed controller back to its
p original position.
l (for a faster sewing speed).
Slide the sewing speed controller to the right
uid

a Sewing speed controller

Memo
-g

Press (start/stop button) once. z When the sewing machine is started or the
m handwheel is turned after winding the
X The bobbin starts spinning and the thread is bobbin, the machine will make a clicking
wound around the bobbin. sound; this is not a malfunction.
all

a start/stop button

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 25

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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

Press (needle position button) once or

a twice to raise the needle, and then raise the
Installing the bobbin
presser foot lever.
Install the bobbin wound with thread.

CAUTION
● Use a bobbin that has been correctly
wound with thread, otherwise the needle
may break or the thread tension will be
incorrect.
a Needle position button

Turn off the sewing machine.

b

● The bobbin was designed specifically for

this sewing machine. If bobbins from other
models are used, the machine will not
operate correctly. Use only the included
bobbin or bobbins of the same type (part
c
Slide the bobbin cover latch to the right.
code: SA156, SFB(XA5539-151)).
a b
1

2 3
a Bobbin cover
a Actual size b Latch
b This model X The bobbin cover opens.
c Other model
d 11.5 mm (7/16 inch) Remove the bobbin cover.
d
● Before installing the bobbin or replacing
Hold the bobbin with your right hand and hold
e the end of the thread with your left.
the needle, be sure to turn off the sewing
machine, otherwise injuries may occur if
start/stop button is accidentally pressed
and the machine starts sewing.

Memo
z The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the bobbin case is indicated
by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to • Be careful not to drop the bobbin.
thread the machine as indicated.

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Insert the bobbin with your right hand so that Guide the thread through the slot, and then
f the thread unwinds to the left side, and then g pull it toward you to cut it with the cutter.
pull the thread firmly under the tab with your
left hand.
a
1
b

a
a Slot
b Cutter

a Tab X The cutter cuts the thread.

• Be sure to insert the bobbin correctly. • Make sure that the thread is correctly passed
through the flat spring of the bobbin case. If it
CAUTION is not inserted correctly, reinstall the thread.

● Be sure to install the bobbin so that the

thread unwinds in the correct direction,
otherwise the thread may break or the
thread tension will be incorrect.

Memo
z The order that the bobbin thread should be
passed through the bobbin case is indicated
a
by marks around the bobbin case. Be sure to
thread the machine as indicated.

a Flat spring

Reattach the bobbin cover.

h Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover (A), and then lightly press down
on the right side (B).

X The lower threading is finished.

Next, thread the upper thread. Continue with
the procedure in “Upper Threading” (page 28).

Memo
z You can begin sewing without pulling up the
bobbin thread. If you wish to pull up the
bobbin thread before starting to sew, pull up
the thread according to the procedure in
“Pulling up the bobbin thread” (page 36).

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 27

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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

Upper Threading
In this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for the upper thread and threading the needle are
described.
a Spool pin
b Mark on handwheel

CAUTION Threading the upper thread

● When threading the upper thread, Set the spool of thread on the spool pin, and then
carefully follow the instructions. If the thread the machine.
upper threading is not correct, the thread
a
may become tangled and the needle may Turn on the sewing machine.
bend or break.
● The needle threader can be used with
sewing machine needles 75/11 through
100/16.
● Use appropriate thread and needle
combinations. For details on appropriate
Raise the presser foot lever.
needle and thread combinations, refer to b
“Needle types and their uses” (page 38).
● Thread with a thickness of 130/20 or
thicker cannot be used with the needle
threader.
● The needle threader cannot be used with a
the wing needle or the twin needle.
● If the needle threader cannot be used,
refer to “Threading the needle manually a Presser foot lever
(without using the needle threader)”
(page 33).
CAUTION
● If the presser foot is not raised, the sewing
Memo machine cannot be threaded.
z The order that the machine should be
threaded is indicated by a solid line on the
sewing machine. Be sure to thread the
machine as indicated.

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Press (needle position button) once or Place the spool of thread onto the spool pin.
c twice to raise the needle. e Slide the spool onto the pin so that the spool is
horizontal and the thread unwinds to the front
at the bottom.

a Needle position button

X The needle is at the correct height when the CAUTION
mark on the handwheel is at the top, as
shown below. Check the handwheel and, if ● If the spool or the spool cap is not
this mark is not at this position, press positioned correctly, the thread may
(needle position button) until it is. become tangled around the spool pin and
the needle may break.

f Slide the spool cap as far as possible to the

Slide the spool cap onto the spool pin.

right, as shown, with the rounded side on the

left.

a Mark on handwheel

Remove the spool cap that is inserted onto the CAUTION

d spool pin.
● If the spool or the spool cap is not
positioned correctly, the thread may
a
become tangled around the spool pin and
the needle may break.
● Three spool cap sizes are available (large,
b medium and small), allowing you to
a Spool pin choose a spool cap that best fits the size
b Spool cap of spool being used. If the spool cap is too
small for the spool being used, the thread
may catch on the slit in the spool and the
needle may break.

Upper Threading 29
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

While holding the spool with your right hand, Pass the thread into the thread take-up lever
g pull the thread with your left hand, and then j from the right to the left.
pass the thread under the thread guide.
a

m
a Thread guide a Thread take-up lever

Pass the thread under the thread guide cover

h from the back to the front.

.co
Memo
Hold the thread with your right hand so that
z If the needle is not raised, the thread take-up
there is no slack in the thread that is pulled
lever cannot be threaded. Be sure to press
out, and then pass the thread under the thread
the needle position button to raise the
guide cover with your left hand.
needle before threading the thread take-up
lever.
es
k guide.
Pass the thread behind the needle bar thread

The thread can easily be passed behind the

needle bar thread guide by holding the thread
in your left hand, and pulling the thread into
uid

the guide from right to left.

a
a Thread guide cover
Thread the machine by guiding the thread
i along the path indicated by the number on the
-g

machine.

a
all

a Needle bar thread guide

Lower the presser foot lever to lower the

l presser foot.

a
a Presser foot lever

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Cut the thread with the thread cutter on the

b left side of the machine.
Threading the needle

This section describes how to thread the needle. a

1
Memo
z The needle threader can be used with
sewing machine needles 75/11 through
100/16.
z Thread with a thickness of 130/20 or thicker a Thread cutter
cannot be used with the needle threader.
z The needle threader cannot be used with the
wing needle or the twin needle. Note
z If the needle threader cannot be used, refer z When using thread that quickly winds off the
to “Threading the needle manually (without spool, such as metallic thread, it may be
using the needle threader)” (page 33). difficult to thread the needle if the thread is
cut.
Therefore, instead of using the thread cutter,
Pull the end of the thread, which has been
a passed through the needle bar thread guide, to pull out about 80 mm (approx. 3 inches) of
thread after passing it through the thread
the left (A), and then firmly pull it from the
guide disks (marked “7”).
front (B) through the slit in the thread guide
disk.

a 80 mm (3 inches) or more

a
b
B
A

a Thread guide disk

b Thread guide

Upper Threading 31
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

Lower the needle threader lever on the left Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the
c side of the machine, and then slowly return the d thread through the presser foot, and then pull
lever to its original position. out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the
rear of the machine.

a Needle threader lever a 5 cm (2 inches)

X The thread is passed through the eye of the X The upper threading is finished.
needle. Now that the upper threading and the lower
threading are finished, you are ready to
begin sewing.
Note
z If the needle was not completely threaded,
but a loop in the thread was formed in the Note
eye of the needle, carefully pull the loop z If the needle is not raised, the needle
through the eye of the needle to pull out the threader cannot thread the needle. Be sure
end of the thread. to press (needle position button) to raise
the needle before using the needle threader.

CAUTION
● When pulling out the thread, do not pull
it with extreme force, otherwise the
needle may break or bend.

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Threading the needle manually Using the twin needle

(without using the needle threader)
With the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines
When using special thread, thread with a thickness of of the same stitch with two different threads. Both
130/20 or thicker, the wing needle or the twin needle upper threads should have the same thickness and 1
which cannot be used with the needle threader, quality. Be sure to use the twin needle, the extra
thread the needle as described below. spool pin and the spool cap.
For details on the stitches that can be sewn with the
twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 120).
a guide.
Thread the machine to the needle bar thread

• For details, refer to “Upper Threading” (page

28).

Lower the presser foot lever.

b a b
a Twin needle
b Extra spool pin

CAUTION
● Only use the twin needle (part code:
X59296-121). Use of any other needle
a may bend the needle or damage the
machine.
a Pressor foot lever
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can
easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
c from front to back.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
● The needle threader cannot be used with
the twin needle. If the needle threader is
used with the twin needle, the sewing
machine may be damaged.

Install the twin needle.

a
• For details on installing a needle, refer to
“Replacing the needle” (page 39).

Thread the upper thread for the left needle

Raise the presser foot lever, pass the end of the b eye.
d thread through the presser foot, and then pull
out about 5 cm (2 inches) of thread toward the • For details, refer to “Upper Threading” (page
rear of the machine. 28).

Manually thread the left needle with the upper

c thread.
Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
from the front.

Upper Threading 33
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

Insert the extra spool pin into the end of the Without passing the thread through the needle
d bobbin winder shaft. g bar thread guide, manually thread the right

a Bobbin winder shaft needle.

b Extra spool pin Pass the thread through the eye of the needle
c Thread spool from the front.

h
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• For details on changing the presser foot, refer
Install the thread spool and thread the upper
e thread.
to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).

CAUTION
Memo ● When using the twin needle, be sure to
z When setting the thread spool, set it so that attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the
the thread winds off from the front of the needle may break or the machine may be
spool. damaged.

Thread the upper thread for the right side in

f the same way that the upper thread for the left i
Turn on the sewing machine.

side was threaded.

X The LCD comes on.

a Thread guide cover

• For details, refer to step h through j of
“Threading the upper thread” (page 28).

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Select a stitch. Start sewing.

j l
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to • For details on starting to sew, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 67). “Starting to sew” (page 52).
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to
with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings”
(page 120).
each other. 1
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly

m
turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the

.co
needle may bend or break.

k
Press (Needle mode selection key).
Note
z When using the twin needle, the stitches
may become bunched together, depending
on the types of thread and fabric that are
es
used. If this occurs, increase the stitch
length. For details on adjusting the stitch
length, refer to “Adjusting the stitch length”
(page 59).

X or (Twin needle icon) appears in

uid

the screen, and the twin needle can now be CAUTION

used. ● When changing the sewing direction,
press (needle position button) to raise
• To return to single needle sewing, press
the needle from the fabric, and then raise
(Needle mode selection key) until the icon
the presser foot lever and turn the fabric.
switches to or . Otherwise the needle may break or the
-g

machine may be damaged.

• Even after the sewing machine is turned off,
the twin needle setting is not cancelled. ● Do not try turning the fabric with the
twin needle left down in the fabric,
CAUTION otherwise the needle may break or the
all

machine may be damaged.

● When using the twin needle, be sure to
select the twin needle setting, otherwise
the needle may break or the machine may
be damaged.

Upper Threading 35
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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

Pull out about 10-15 cm (4-5 inches) of the

e bobbin thread under the presser foot toward
Pulling up the bobbin thread
the rear of the machine.
When making gathers or before free-motion quilting,
first pull up the bobbin thread as described below.

Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case.

a
• Refer to steps a through e of “Installing the
bobbin” (page 26).

Pass the bobbin thread through the slot.

b Do not cut the thread with the cutter.

Reattach the bobbin cover.

f Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the
bobbin cover (A), and then lightly press down
on the right side (B).

While lightly holding the upper thread with

c your left hand with the needle in the up- A
position, press (needle position button)
twice to lower and raise the needle.

a Needle position button

X The bobbin thread is looped around the
upper thread and can be pulled up.

Carefully pull the upper thread upward to pull

d out the end of the bobbin thread.

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Replacing the Needle

This section provides information on sewing machine needles.
1
Needle precautions
Be sure to observe the following precautions concerning the handling of the needle. Failure to observe these
precautions is extremely dangerous, for example, if the needle breaks and fragments are dispersed. Be sure to
read and carefully follow the instructions below.

CAUTION
● Only use home sewing machine needles. Use of any other needle may bend the needle or
damage the machine.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.

Replacing the Needle 37

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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

Needle types and their uses

The sewing machine needle that should be used depends on the fabric and thread thickness. Refer to the
following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.

Thread
Fabric Type/Application Size of Needle
Type Weight

Broadcloth Cotton thread

60–80
Medium
Taffeta Synthetic thread
weight 75/11–90/14
fabrics Flannel,
Silk thread 50
Gabardine

Lawn Cotton thread

60–80
Thin fabrics Georgette Synthetic thread 65/9–75/11

Challis, Satin Silk thread 50

Denim Cotton thread 30–50

Thick
Corduroy Synthetic thread 90/14–100/16
fabrics 50–60
Tweed Silk thread

Jersey Ball point needle

Stretch
Thread for knits 50–60 (golden colored)
fabrics Tricot 75/11–90/14

Cotton thread
50–80
Easily frayed fabrics Synthetic thread 65/9–90/14

Silk thread 50

Synthetic thread
For top-stitching 50–60 90/14–100/16
Silk thread

Memo CAUTION
z The lower the thread number, the thicker the
thread, and the higher the needle number, ● The appropriate fabric, thread and needle
the thicker the needle. combinations are shown in the table
z Use the ball point needle when sewing on above. If the combination of the fabric,
stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped thread and needle is not correct,
stitches easily occur. particularly when sewing thick fabrics
z Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle with (such as denim) with thin needles (such as
transparent nylon threads, regardless of the 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or
fabric being sewn.
break. In addition, the stitching may be
z A 75/11 needle is already installed when the
sewing machine is purchased.
uneven or puckered or there may be
skipped stitches.

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Checking the needle Replacing the needle

Sewing with a bent needle is extremely dangerous Replace the needle as described below. Use the
since the needle may break while the machine is screwdriver and a needle that has been determined to
being operated. be straight according to the instructions in “Checking 1
Before using the needle, place the flat side of the the needle”.
needle on a flat surface and check that the distance
Press (needle position button) once or
between the needle and the flat surface is even. a twice to raise the needle.

1
2

a Needle position button

b
Turn off the sewing machine.
a Flat side
b Needle type marking
■ Correct needle

CAUTION
1
● Before replacing the needle, be sure to
a Flat surface
turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if (start/stop
■ Incorrect needle
button) is accidentally pressed and the
If the distance between the needle and the flat
surface is not even, the needle is bent. Do not use machine starts sewing.
a bent needle.
Lower the presser foot lever.
c

a Flat surface
a
a Presser foot lever

CAUTION
● Before replacing the needle, place fabric
or paper under the presser foot to prevent
the needle from falling into the hole in the
needle plate.

Replacing the Needle 39

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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

Hold the needle with your left hand, and then While holding the needle with your left hand,
d use a screwdriver to turn the needle clamp f use the screwdriver to tighten the needle
screw toward you (counterclockwise) to clamp screw.
remove the needle.

b Install the twin needle in the same way.

a

m
a Needle clamp screw
b Screwdriver
• Do not apply a strong force when loosening
or tightening the needle clamp screw,

.co
otherwise certain parts of the sewing
machine may be damaged.
CAUTION
● Be sure to insert the needle until it
touches the needle stopper and securely
tighten the needle clamp screw with the
screwdriver, otherwise the needle may
es
break or damage may result.

With the flat side of the needle toward the rear

e of the machine, insert the needle until it
uid

touches the needle stopper.

a
-g
all

a Needle stopper

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Replacing the Presser Foot

The presser foot presses down on the fabric.
1
Presser foot precautions Replacing the presser foot
Be sure to observe the following precautions Replace the presser foot as described below.
concerning the presser feet. For details on using the side cutter “S”, refer to
“Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side
CAUTION cutter” (page 73).

● Use the presser foot appropriate for the

a twice to raise the needle.
Press (needle position button) once or
type of stitch that you wish to sew,
otherwise the needle may hit the presser
foot, causing the needle to bend or break.
● Only use presser feet designed specifically
for this sewing machine. Use of any other
presser foot may result in injuries or
damage to the machine.

a Needle position button

X The needle is raised.

Turn off the sewing machine.

b

CAUTION
● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure
to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise
injuries may occur if (start/stop
button) is accidentally pressed and the
machine starts sewing.

Raise the presser foot lever.

c

a Presser foot lever

X The presser foot is raised.

Replacing the Presser Foot 41

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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

Press the black button at the back of the Raise the presser foot lever to check that the
d presser foot holder. g presser foot is securely attached.

a Black button
b Presser foot holder
X The presser foot holder releases the presser Note
foot. z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
presser foot that should be used appears in
Place a different presser foot below the holder the screen. Check that the correct presser
e so that the presser foot pin is aligned with the foot is attached before starting to sew. If the
notch in the holder. wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the
Position the presser foot so the letter indicating sewing machine, attach the correct presser
the presser foot type (A, G, I, J, M, N or R) is foot, and then select the desired stitch again.
positioned to be read.
Buttonhole foot “A”
a
Overcasting foot “G”

Zigzag foot “J”

b c
Button fitting foot “M”

Monogramming foot “N”

a Presser foot holder
b Notch
c Pin Blind stitch foot “R”

Slowly lower the presser foot lever so that the z For details on the presser foot that should be
f presser foot pin snaps into the notch in the used with the selected stitch, refer to “Stitch
presser foot holder. Settings” (page 120).

a Presser foot lever

b Presser foot holder
c Notch
d Pin

c d

a Presser foot lever

X The presser foot is attached.

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Hold the presser foot holder in place with your

b right hand, and then tighten the screw using
Removing the presser foot
the screwdriver in your left hand.
holder
Remove the presser foot holder when cleaning the
sewing machine or when installing a presser foot that 1
does not use the presser foot holder, such as the a
quilting foot. Use the screwdriver to remove the
presser foot holder.
■ Removing the presser foot holder
Remove the presser foot. a Screwdriver
a
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41). Note
Use the screwdriver to loosen the presser foot z If the presser foot holder is not correctly
b holder screw. installed, the thread tension will be incorrect.

c
a Screwdriver
b Presser foot holder
c Presser foot holder screw
■ Attaching the presser foot holder
Align the presser foot holder with the lower-
a left side of the presser bar.

a Presser bar
b Presser foot holder

Replacing the Presser Foot 43

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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

Using the optional walking CAUTION

foot ● Be sure to securely tighten the screw with
the screwdriver, otherwise the needle
With the optional walking foot, both pieces of fabric
may touch the presser foot, causing it to
are fed evenly by the feed dogs and the teeth on the
presser foot. This is useful when sewing fabrics that
bend or break.
are hard to feed such as vinyl and leather and when ● Before starting to sew, slowly turn the
sewing fabrics that easily slip such as velvets or when handwheel toward you (counterclockwise)
quilting. and check that the needle does not touch
Use the screwdriver to attach the walking foot. the presser foot. If the needle hits the
presser foot, the needle may bend or break.

Note
z When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a
speed between slow and medium.
■ Attaching the walking foot

Remove the presser foot holder. ■ Removing the walking foot

a
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser Press (needle position button) once or
foot holder” (page 43). a twice to raise the needle.

Hook the connecting fork of the walking foot

b onto the needle clamp screw.

b
a Needle position button
X The needle is raised.

Turn off the sewing machine.

b
a Connecting fork
b Needle clamp screw

Lower the presser foot lever, insert the presser

c foot holder screw, and then tighten the screw
with the screwdriver.

Raise the presser foot lever.

a c

a Presser foot holder screw

a

a Presser foot lever

X The presser foot is raised.

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With a screwdriver, loosen the presser foot

d holder screw, and then remove the walking
foot.

1
a

m
a Presser foot holder screw

Attach the presser foot holder.

e
• For details, refer to “Removing the presser

.co
foot holder” (page 43).

Memo
z Only the straight stitch (with reinforcement
stitching) and the zigzag stitch can be used
with the walking foot. For details on the
es
stitches, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 120).
z The optional walking foot is available
through your Brother dealer.
uid
-g
all

Replacing the Presser Foot 45

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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces

When sewing cylindrical or large pieces of fabric, remove the flat bed attachment.

Stitching cylindrical pieces Sewing large pieces of fabric

Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to The optional wide table makes sewing large pieces of
sew cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs. fabric easier.

Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.

a

a table.
Open up the legs at the bottom of the wide

Pull out the four legs until they snap into place.

X With the flat bed attachment removed, free-

arm sewing is possible.

b arm, and then sew from the top.

Slide the part that you wish to sew onto the
Pull the flat bed attachment off to the left.
b

c install the flat bed attachment back in its

When you are finished with free-arm sewing,

original position.

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Install the wide table. Install the flat bed attachment back in its
c Keeping the wide table level, fully slide it into f original position.
place. The lower right corner section of the
wide table extends over the front section of the
sewing machine bed.
1

2
1
a Lower right corner
b Sewing machine bed

Note
z The optional wide table is available through
your Brother dealer.

Turn the screw at the bottom of each leg to

d adjust their height so the wide table will be
level with the sewing machine bed.

CAUTION
● Do not move the sewing machine while
the wide table is attached, otherwise
damage or injuries may occur.

When you are finished using the wide table,

e remove it.
While slightly lifting up the wide table, pull it
off to the left.

Sewing Cylindrical or Large Pieces 47

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GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————

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2 SEWING BASICS
The necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter.

Sewing.....................................................................................................................50
General sewing procedure .................................................................................50
Positioning the fabric .........................................................................................51
Starting to sew ...................................................................................................52
Securing the stitching.........................................................................................54
Cutting the thread ..............................................................................................56
Adjusting the Thread Tension ..................................................................................57
Changing the tension of the upper thread ..........................................................57
Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length ....................................................................58
Adjusting the stitch width ..................................................................................58
Adjusting the stitch length..................................................................................59
Useful Functions......................................................................................................60
Changing the needle stop position .....................................................................60
Automatically sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches..........................................60
Useful Sewing Tips ..................................................................................................62
Trial sewing........................................................................................................62
Changing the sewing direction .............................................................................62
Sewing curves ....................................................................................................62
Sewing thick fabrics ...........................................................................................62
Sewing thin fabrics .............................................................................................63
Sewing stretch fabrics ........................................................................................63
Sewing an even seam allowance ........................................................................64
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————

Sewing
Basic sewing operations are described below.
Before operating the sewing machine, read the following precautions.

CAUTION
● While the machine is in operation, pay special attention to the needle location. In addition,
keep your hands away from all moving parts such as the needle and handwheel, otherwise
injuries may occur.

m
● Do not pull or push the fabric too hard while sewing, otherwise injuries may occur or the
needle may break.
● Never use bent needles. Bent needles can easily break, possibly resulting in injuries.
● Use the correct presser foot for the type of stitch that you wish to sew, otherwise the needle

.co
may hit the presser foot, causing the needle to bend or break.
● When sewing, make sure that the needle does not strike basting pins, otherwise the needle
may break or bend.
● Before replacing the presser foot, be sure to turn off the sewing machine, otherwise injuries
may occur if the start/stop button is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
es
General sewing procedure
Follow the basic procedures below to sew.

1 Turn on the machine. Turn on the sewing machine. For details on turning on the machine,
uid

refer to “Turning on the machine” (page 17).

↓
Select the stitch appropriate for the area to be sewn. For details on
2 Select the stitch. selecting a stitch, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page 67).
↓
Attach the presser foot appropriate for the stitch. For details on replacing
-g

3 Attach the presser foot.

the presser foot, refer to “Replacing the presser foot” (page 41).
↓
Place the area to be sewn under the presser foot. Be sure that the fabric
pieces are sewn in the correct order and that the right and wrong sides of
all

4 Position the fabric.

the fabric are aligned correctly. For details on positioning the fabric,
refer to “Positioning the fabric” (page 51).
↓
Start sewing. For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting to sew”
5 Start sewing. (page 52).
↓

6 Cut the thread. Cut the thread at the end of sewing. For details on cutting the thread,
refer to “Cutting the thread” (page 56).

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Positioning the fabric

Be sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct

order and that the right and wrong sides of the fabric
are aligned correctly.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

2
e
Lower the presser foot lever.
The straight stitch (left needle position) is
automatically selected.

Press (needle position button) once or

b twice to raise the needle.

a
a Presser foot lever
X The fabric is now positioned to be sewn.

a Needle position button

c
Place the fabric under the presser foot.
• If the seam allowance is positioned on the
right side, sewing in a straight line is easier
and the extra fabric does not get in the way.

While holding the end of the thread and the

d fabric with your left hand, turn the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) with your right
hand to lower the needle to the starting point
of the stitching.

Sewing 51
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————

Press (start/stop button) once.

b
Starting to sew

Once you are ready to start sewing, you can start the
sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted
using either the sewing speed controller or the foot
controller.

a Start/stop button
Note
Important: X The machine starts sewing.
z When the foot controller is plugged in,
(start/stop button) cannot be used to start
sewing.

■ Using the operation buttons

Sewing can be started and stopped using the
operation button (start/stop button).

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or • If you continue to hold (start/stop button)
a right to select the desired sewing speed. pressed immediately after the sewing starts,
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to the machine will sew at a slow speed.
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed. When the end of the stitching is reached, press
c (start/stop button) once.
X The machine stops sewing with the needle
down (in the fabric).

When you are finished sewing, raise the

d needle, and then cut the threads.

a Sewing speed controller X For details, refer to “Cutting the thread”

(page 56).
■ Using the foot controller
Sewing can be started and stopped using the foot
controller.

Turn off the sewing machine.

a When connecting the foot controller, be sure to
turn off the sewing machine in order to prevent
the machine from accidentally being started.

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Insert the foot controller plug into its jack on Once you are ready to start sewing, slowly
b the side of the sewing machine. e press down on the foot controller.
Pressing down on the foot controller increases
the sewing speed; releasing the pressure on the
foot controller decreases the sewing speed.

a Slower
2
2
b Faster
a Foot controller jack
• Slowly press down on the foot controller.
Pressing it down hard starts sewing too
quickly.
Note
(For U.S.A. only) X The machine starts sewing.
z Foot controller: Model T
This foot controller can be used on this When the end of the stitching is reached,
machine model NS80. f completely release the foot controller.

X The machine stops sewing with the needle

lowered (in the fabric).
Turn on the sewing machine.
c

Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or

d right to select the desired sewing speed.
Slide the sewing speed controller to the left to
sew at a slower speed, or slide the speed
controller to the right to sew at a faster speed.

a Sewing speed controller

• The speed set using the sewing speed
controller will be the foot controller’s
maximum sewing speed.

Sewing 53
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————

When you are finished sewing, raise the

g needle, and then cut the threads.
Securing the stitching
• For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page
56). When sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at
the end of an opening or where seams do not
overlap, use reverse stitching or reinforcement
Memo stitching to secure the end of the thread.
z When the foot controller is plugged in,

a beginning of the stitching, and then lower the

(start/stop button) cannot be used to start Lower the needle into the fabric at the
sewing.
presser foot lever.
z When sewing is stopped, the needle remains
lowered (in the fabric). The machine can be
set so that the needle will stay up when
sewing is stopped. For details on setting the
machine so that the needle stays up when
sewing is stopped, refer to “Changing the
needle stop position” (page 60).

CAUTION
● Do not allow thread or dust to
accumulate in the foot controller,
otherwise a fire or an electric shock may
Press (start/stop button) or press down on
b
occur.
● Do not place objects on the foot the foot controller.
controller, otherwise damage to the At this time, if (start/stop button) is held
machine or injuries may occur. down, the machine sews at a low speed.
● If the machine is not to be used for a long
period of time, unplug the foot controller,
otherwise a fire or an electric shock may
occur.

a Start/stop button
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page
52).
X The machine starts sewing.

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After sewing 3 to 5 stitches, press (reverse/ After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn,
c reinforcement stitch button). g release (reverse/reinforcement stitch
Keep (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) button).
held down until you reach the beginning of the
X The machine stops sewing.
stitching.
Press (start/stop button), or press down
h
on the foot controller.
At this time, if (start/stop button) is held
down, the machine sews at a slow speed.

X The machine starts sewing in the normal 2

m
sewing direction.
a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
After sewing to the end of the stitching, the
i sewing machine stops.
X While (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) is held down, reverse stitches are

.co
sewn. Press (start/stop button) or release foot
controller.
After sewing back to the beginning of the
d stitching, release (reverse/reinforcement 1
stitch button).
X The machine stops sewing. 3 1
es
2
Press (start/stop button), or press down
e
on the foot controller.
X The machine starts sewing in the normal
sewing direction
uid

5
4
6
2
a Beginning of stitching
b End of stitching
■ Sewing reinforcement stitches
-g

When sewing stitches other than straight or

zigzag stitches that are secured with reverse
When the end of the stitching is reached, press stitching, pressing (reverse/reinforcement
f (reverse/reinforcement stitch button). stitch button) sews reinforcement stitches, 3 to 5
all

Keep (reverse/reinforcement stitch button) stitches on top of each other.

held down until 3 to 5 reverse stitches are
sewn.
X While (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) is held down, reverse stitches are
sewn.
1 2
a Reverse stitching
b Reinforcement stitching

Memo
z Whether reverse stitches or reinforcement
stitches are sewn depends on the stitch that
is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch
Settings” (page 120).

Sewing 55
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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————

Cutting the thread

When you have finished sewing, cut the threads with

the thread cutter on the side of the machine.

When you wish to finish the stitching and the

a sewing machine is stopped, if the needle is not
raised, press (needle position button) once
to raise the needle.

a Needle position button

X The needle is raised.

Raise the presser foot lever.

b

a Presser foot lever

c and then pass the threads through the thread

Pull the fabric to the left side of the machine,

cutter to cut them.

a Thread cutter

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Adjusting the Thread Tension

The tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbin thread (thread tension) should be adjusted so that they
are equal.
Turn the thread tension dial to the left to loosen
Changing the tension of the the upper thread.
upper thread

You may need to change the thread tension,

depending on the fabric and thread being used.
2
■ Correct thread tension ■ Upper thread is too loose
The upper thread and the bobbin thread should If the upper thread is visible from the wrong side
cross near the center of the fabric. Only the upper of the fabric, the upper thread is too loose.
thread should be visible from the right side of the 5
fabric, and only the bobbin thread should be
visible from the wrong side of the fabric. 1
1
2

2
3
4
3 a Wrong side of fabric
4 b Right side of fabric
a Wrong side of fabric c Upper thread
b Right side of fabric d Bobbin thread
c Upper thread e The upper thread is visible from the wrong side of
d Bobbin thread the fabric.

■ Upper thread is too tight Turn the thread tension dial to the right to tighten
If the bobbin thread is visible from the right side the upper thread.
of the fabric, the upper thread is too tight.

2
Note
5 z If the upper thread is not threaded correctly
3
or the bobbin is not installed correctly, it
4
may not be possible to set the correct thread
a Wrong side of fabric tension. If the correct thread tension cannot
b Right side of fabric
c Upper thread
be achieved, rethread the upper thread and
d Bobbin thread insert the bobbin correctly.
e The bobbin thread is visible from the right side of
the fabric.

Adjusting the Thread Tension 57

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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————

Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length

The zigzag width (pattern width) and stitch length of utility stitches can be adjusted. Normally, when a
stitch is selected, the appropriate width and length are automatically selected. For details on the range of
values within which the width and length can be set, refer to “Stitch Settings” (page 120).

Adjusting the stitch width

The stitch width (zigzag width) can be adjusted to
make the stitch wider or narrower.
– +
a
Turn on the sewing machine.

• If the setting is changed, the highlighted

value is erased.

X The LCD comes on.

Memo
z To reset the stitch width to its standard
Select a stitch. setting, select the same stitch again or
b change the setting to the highlighted value.
X A screen containing settings for the selected z If the straight stitch (left needle position or
stitch appears. triple stretch stitch) was selected, changing
the stitch width changes the needle position.
Increasing the width moves the needle to the
right; reducing the width moves the needle
to the left.
z The sewing machine can be set so that the
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to stitch width can easily be changed with the
“Selecting stitching” (page 67). sewing speed controller. For details, refer to
“Satin stitching using the sewing speed
• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the controller” (page 98).
standard settings (highlighted) appear.
z indicates that the setting cannot be
adjusted.
c
To make the stitch width narrower, press
(Stitch width key). To make the stitch width
wider, press (Stitch width key).
CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you and
check that the needle does not touch the
presser foot. If the needle hits the presser
foot, the needle may bend or break.

X The stitch width is changed.

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To make the stitch length shorter, press

c
Adjusting the stitch length (Stitch length key). To make the stitch length
longer, press (Stitch length key).
The stitch length can be adjusted to make the stitch
longer or shorter.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a

2
X The stitch length is changed.

X The LCD comes on.

Select a stitch.
b
X A screen containing settings for the selected
stitch appears.
– +

• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to

“Selecting stitching” (page 67).
• If the setting is changed, the highlighted
• Immediately after the stitch is selected, the value is erased.
standard settings (highlighted) appear.

Memo
z To reset the stitch length to its standard
setting, select the same stitch again or
change the setting to the highlighted value.
z indicates that the setting cannot be
adjusted.

CAUTION
● If the stitches are bunched together,
increase the stitch length. Continuing to
sew with the stitches bunched together
may result in the needle bending or
breaking.

Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length 59

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Useful Functions
Functions useful in improving sewing efficiency are described below.

Changing the needle stop Automatically sewing reverse/

position reinforcement stitches

When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to The sewing machine can be set to automatically sew
leave the needle lowered in the fabric when sewing is reverse or reinforcement stitches at the beginning and

m
stopped. However, the machine can be set to instead end of the stitching. Whether reverse stitches or
leave the needle raised when sewing is stopped. reinforcement stitches are sewn depends on the stitch
that is selected. For details, refer to “Stitch Settings”
Turn on the sewing machine. (page 120).
a

.co a
Turn on the sewing machine.

X The LCD comes on.

es
Press (Needle position key). X The LCD comes on.
b
Select a stitch.
b
X or (Needle stop position icon)
appears in the screen, and the machine is
uid

now set to stop with the needle in the raised

position.
• For details on selecting a stitch, refer to
“Selecting stitching” (page 67).
-g

• To return the machine to the setting where

all

the needle is stopped in the lowered position,

press (Needle position key) until the
icon changes to or .

• Even after the sewing machine is turned off,

the needle stop position setting is not
cancelled.

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Press (Automatic reverse/reinforcement After reaching the end of the stitching, press
c e (reverse/reinforcement stitch button)
stitch key).
once.
This step is not necessary if a stitch such as
This step is not necessary if a stitch such as
those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is
those for sewing buttonholes and bar tacks is
selected where reinforcement stitches are
selected where reinforcement stitches are
automatically sewn.
automatically sewn.

2
X (Automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch a Reverse/reinforcement stitch button
icon) appears in the screen, and the sewing X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
machine is set for automatic reverse/ sewn, the sewing machine stops.
reinforcement stitching.

• To turn automatic reverse/reinforcement

stitching off, press (Automatic reverse/
reinforcement stitch key) until the icon
disappears.
• When the sewing machine is turned off, the
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching
setting is cancelled.

Position the fabric under the presser foot, and

d
then press (start/stop button) once.
Memo
z Reverse/reinforcement stitches WILL NOT be
sewn until (reverse/reinforcement stitch
button) is pressed. (start/stop button)
may be pressed to stop stitching when
needed such as for pivoting corners.

a Start/stop button
X After reverse/reinforcement stitches are
sewn, the machine starts sewing.

Useful Functions 61
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Useful Sewing Tips

Various ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips
when sewing your project.

Trial sewing Sewing curves

After a stitch is selected, the machine automatically Stop sewing, and then slightly change the sewing
sets the stitch width and length for the stitch that was direction to sew around the curve. For details on
selected. sewing with an even seam allowance, refer to
However, a trial piece of fabric should be sewn since, “Sewing an even seam allowance” (page 64).
depending on the type of fabric and stitching being
sewn, the desired results may not be achieved.
For the trial sewing, use a piece of fabric and thread
that are the same as those used for your project, and
check the thread tension and stitch length and width.
Since the results differ depending on the type of
stitching and the number of layers of fabric sewn,
perform the trial sewing under the same conditions
that will be used with your project.
When sewing along a curve while using a zigzag
stitch, select a shorter stitch length in order to obtain
Changing the sewing direction a finer stitch.

When the stitching reaches a corner, stop the

a sewing machine.
Leave the needle lowered (in the fabric). If the
needle remained up when the machine stopped
sewing, press (needle position button) to
lower the needle.

Raise the presser foot lever, and then turn the

b fabric.
Turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.
Sewing thick fabrics
■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser foot
If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser
foot, raise the presser foot lever even higher to
bring the presser foot to its highest position.

Lower the presser foot lever and continue

c sewing.

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■ If thick seams are being sewn and the fabric does Release the button. The foot will lock in place
not feed at the beginning of stitching c level with the seam, allowing the fabric to

Zigzag foot “J” is equipped with a feature that feed.

keeps the presser foot level.

X Once the trouble spot has been passed, the

b
foot will return to its normal position.
2
a Sewing direction
b Misalignment

When you encounter a seam that is too thick CAUTION

a to feed under the foot, raise the presser foot
● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch)
lever.
thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed
with too much force, the needle may
Press the black button (presser foot holding
b pin) on the left side of zigzag foot “J”. Keep bend or break.
the button held in and lower the presser foot.

Sewing thin fabrics

When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become
misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this
occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under
a the fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When
you have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.

a Black button

a
Note
z The presser foot needs to be in a level
position before pressing the black button
a Stabilizer material or paper
(presser foot holding pin) on the left side of
zigzag foot “J”.
Sewing stretch fabrics
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew
without stretching the fabric.

a Basting

Useful Sewing Tips 63

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SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————

Sewing an even seam

allowance
To sew an even seam, start sewing so that the seam
allowance is to the right of the presser foot, and the
edge of the fabric is aligned with either the right edge
of the presser foot or a marking on the needle plate.
■ Aligning the fabric with the presser foot
Sew while keeping the right edge of the presser
foot a fixed distance from the edge of the fabric.

a Seam
b Presser foot
■ Aligning the fabric with a needle plate marking
The markings on the needle plate show the
distance from the needle position of a seam sewn
with the straight stitch (left needle position). Sew
while keeping the edge of the fabric aligned with
a marking in the needle plate. The distance
between the markings in the upper scale is 1/8
inch (3 mm) and the distance between the
markings in the grid is 5 mm (3/16 inch).

1
4

2 3

a Seam
b Presser foot
c Centimeters
d Inches
e Needle plate
f 16 mm (5/8 inch)

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3 UTILITY STITCHES

m
The various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter.

Selecting Stitching ............................... 66 Reinforcement Stitching ....................100

.co
Selecting stitch types and patterns....... 66 Triple stretch stitching..................100
Selecting stitching .......................... 67 Bar tack stitching..........................100
Overcasting Stitches............................ 71 Eyelet Stitching..................................102
Sewing overcasting stitches Decorative Stitching..........................103
using overcasting foot “G” ............. 71 Fagoting........................................104
Sewing overcasting stitches Scallop stitching ...........................105
es
using zigzag foot “J” ...................... 72 Smocking......................................105
Sewing overcasting stitches Shell tuck stitching .......................106
using the optional side cutter .........73 Joining ..........................................107
Basic Stitching ..................................... 75 Heirloom stitching........................107
Basic stitching ................................ 75 Sewing the Various Built-In
Blind Hem Stitching ............................ 77
uid

Decorative Patterns...........................110
Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing.... 79 Sewing beautiful patterns .............110
Buttonhole sewing.......................... 80 Sewing patterns ............................110
Button sewing ................................ 84 Combining patterns ......................111
Zipper Insertion................................... 86 Repeat sewing patterns.................112
Inserting a centered zipper ............ 86 Checking the selected pattern ......112
Inserting a side zipper .................... 88 Mirror imaging the pattern...........113
-g

Sewing Stretch Fabrics Retrieving a pattern......................115

Realigning the pattern ..................116
and Elastic Tape................................... 91
Stretch stitching ............................. 91
Elastic attaching ............................. 91
all

Appliqué, Patchwork
and Quilt Stitching .............................. 93
Appliqué stitching .......................... 94
Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching.........95
Piecing ........................................... 95
Quilting.......................................... 96
Free-motion quilting....................... 97
Satin stitching using the sewing
speed controller ............................. 98
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Selecting Stitching
You can select any of the various types of stitching available.
† Preset utility stitch
Selecting stitch types and The most frequently used utility stitches
patterns have been assigned to the numeric keys.
These stitches can be selected simply by
A stitch can be selected from the following types pressing the key.
available.
† Saved patterns
Stitch patterns can be selected through either direct
select (by pressing the key for a specific stitch) or Frequently used patterns and combined
number selection (by entering the number for the patterns can be saved on the machine's
stitch pattern). memory and easily retrieved using
For details on the types of stitches available, refer to
(Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key) and
“Stitch Settings” (page 120).
the numeric keys. For details, refer to
■ Direct selection “Saving patterns” (page 114).
After pressing (Preset utility stitch/saved
■ Number selection
pattern key) to select the stitch mode, press the
numeric key assigned with the desired stitch. After pressing (Utility stitch key) or
(Character/utility decorative stitch key) to select
With direct selection, there are two stitch modes:
the stitch mode, use the numeric keys to type in
preset utility stitch mode and saved pattern
the number for the desired stitch.
mode . When the machine is turned on or
when the (Preset utility stitch/saved pattern
key) is pressed, the machine enters preset utility
stitch mode, indicated by in the lower-left 1
corner of the screen. To enter saved pattern
/ 2
mode, indicated by in the lower-left corner
of the screen, press the (Preset utility stitch/
3
saved pattern key). Each press of (Preset
utility stitch/saved pattern key) switches the mode
a Utility stitch key
between the preset utility stitch mode and b Character/utility decorative stitch key
c Numeric keys
saved pattern mode .
† Utility stitches (No.01-80)
There are 80 utility stitches, including
/ 1 straight stitches, overcasting stitches,
buttonhole stitches, decorative stitches,
satin stitches and cross-stitches.

a Preset utility stitch/saved pattern key

b Numeric keys

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† Character stitches (No.01-55)

There are 55 characters, including letters, Selecting stitching
symbols and numbers, in the Gothic font.
Using the operation panel keys, select the desired
stitch. Ten of the most often used utility stitches can
If (Character/utility decorative stitch key) is quickly be selected with the numeric keys.
pressed once, character stitch mode is selected. Right after turning the power on, the straight stitch
(left needle position) is selected.
Character stitches are sewn in the Gothic font. The machine can also be set to select the straight
stitch (center needle position). For details, refer to
† Utility decorative stitches (No.01-62)
“Changing the settings” (page 19).
Some utility stitches can be used as
decorative stitches. There are 62 of these Determine the stitch that you wish to use.
a
stitches. • For the numbers of the various stitches, refer
to the stitch pattern plate and “Stitch Settings”
(page 120).
Multiple patterns can be combined in the utility
decorative stitch mode .
3
If (Character/utility decorative stitch key) is
pressed once, character stitch mode is
selected. If (Character/utility decorative
stitch key) is pressed twice, utility decorative
stitch mode is selected. Each press of
(Utility decorative/character stitch key) switches
the mode between character stitch mode
and utility decorative stitch mode .
a Stitch pattern plate

b with the selected stitch.

Determine which presser foot should be used

The presser feet are stored in the accessory

compartment.
• For details on the stitches that can be sewn
with the twin needle, refer to “Stitch Settings”
(page 120).

Attach the presser foot.

c
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).

d
Turn on the sewing machine.
X The straight stitch (left needle position) is
shown selected in the LCD.

After selecting the stitch mode, select the

e stitch pattern.

Selecting Stitching 67
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

■ With direct selection ■ With number selection

With direct selection, there are two stitch modes: There are three modes of stitches that can be
preset utility stitch mode and saved pattern
selected by number: utility stitch mode ,
mode .
character stitch mode and utility decorative
Press (Preset utility stitch/saved pattern
a
stitch mode .
key) to select the stitch mode.
Press the stitch mode key for the stitch that
a you wish to use.
: Preset utility stitch
The 10 stitch patterns printed on the
numeric keys can be selected directly. Utility stitches
appears in the lower-left corner of the 80 utility stitches, including decorative
screen when the machine is turned on or stitches, satin stitches and cross-stitches,
when (Preset utility stitch/saved are available.

pattern key) is pressed.

Character stitches
: Saved patterns
The 3 stitch patterns saved with the 55 letters, symbols and numbers are

numeric keys can be selected directly. available in the Gothic font.

When (Character/utility decorative
appears in the lower-left corner of the
stitch key) is pressed once.
screen when (Preset utility stitch/
saved pattern key) is pressed. Utility decorative stitches
62 utility decorative stitches are available.
X When a direct selection mode is selected,
When (Character/utility decorative
appears in the screen.
stitch key) is pressed twice.
X After the icon for the selected stitch mode X After the icon for the selected stitch mode
appears in the center of the screen, a screen appears in the center of the screen, a screen
for selecting the stitch appears with the icon for selecting the stitch appears with the icon
for the stitch mode in the lower-left corner.
for the stitch mode in the lower-left corner.
† Example: utility decorative stitches
However, when the machine is turned on,
appears only in the lower-left corner of
the screen and does not appear in the center
of the screen.

† Example: preset utility stitch

Memo
z When pressing a stitch mode key multiple
times, continue pressing the key after the
icon for the stitch mode appears in the
lower-left corner of the screen.
Press the key assigned with the stitch to select
b the stitch.

• Continue with step f (on page 69).

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————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Use the numeric keys to type in the two-digit ■ To select a different stitch
b number for the desired stitch.
Check the icon in the lower-left corner of the
For stitches 01 through 09, the stitch can also screen for the current mode.
be selected by using the numeric keys to type in
a one-digit number, then pressing (OK
key).

X After the entered number appears in the

center of the screen, the stitch is selected. The current mode is indicated.

† Example
† To select a stitch in the same mode as the
current one
• In the utility stitch mode, simply type in the
number for the desired stitch.
• In the decorative stitch mode and character
stitch mode, press (Cancel/clear key) to 3
cancel the stitch, and then type in the
• For the numbers of the various stitches, refer
number for the desired stitch.
to the stitch pattern plate and “Stitch Settings”
(page 120). • However, if the currently selected stitch was
sewn at least one time, typing in a stitch
• If the first number (tens when entering two-
number switches to the new stitch, even if
digit numbers, ones when entering one-digit the previous stitch was not canceled.
numbers) was incorrectly entered, press
(Cancel/clear key) to erase the entered
number. Memo
z Patterns can be combined by selecting a
• If an incorrect two-digit number was entered, different decorative stitch while a stitch is
an error beep is sounded, and the entered selected. For details, refer to “Saving
number is cleared. patterns” (page 114).

If necessary, specify the setting for automatic

f reverse/reinforcement stitching and adjust the
stitch length, etc.
• For details on sewing with each of the utility
stitches, begin on page 71.

Note
z When a stitch is selected, the icon for the
presser foot that should be used appears in
the screen. Check that the correct presser
foot is attached before starting to sew. If the
wrong presser foot is installed, turn off the
sewing machine, attach the correct presser
foot, and then select the desired stitch again.

Memo
z For details on adjusting the stitch width and
length, refer to “Adjusting the Stitch Width
and Length” (page 58).

Selecting Stitching 69
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

† To select a stitch in a different mode as the

current one
• After selecting a different mode, type in the
number for the desired stitch. (Refer to steps
e on pages 67 through 69.)

When switching from the utility stitch mode to

the decorative stitch or character stitch mode or
the other way around, all stitches that have been
selected are erased so that a new stitch can be

m
selected. A screen similar to the one shown
below appears, allowing you to confirm whether
or not to erase the stitches.

press
.co
• To erase the stitch and select a different one,
(OK key), and then change the
stitch mode.
es
• To stop the current stitch from being erased,
press (Cancel/clear key) to return to the
previous screen.
uid

Memo
z After changing stitch settings such as the
stitch length and width or after combining
patterns, the stitch pattern can be saved with
its current settings. For details, refer to
-g

“Saving patterns” (page 114).

all

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————————————————————————————————————————————————————

Overcasting Stitches
Sew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric to prevent fabric from fraying. Fifteen stitches are
available for overcasting. The procedure for sewing overcasting stitch is explained according to the
presser foot that is used.

Sewing overcasting stitches using overcasting foot “G”

Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting with overcasting foot “G”.

Pattern Numeric Stitch Width Stitch Length

Key [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
08 Preventing fraying in
3.5 2.5–5.0 2.0 1.0–4.0
medium weight and
thin fabrics
(1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) 3
Overcasting 09 5.0 2.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 G
stitch Preventing fraying in (3/16) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
thick fabrics and
10 fabrics that fray easily 5.0 3.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0
–
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)

Turn on the sewing machine. Sew with the edge of the fabric against the
a e presser foot guide.
Select a stitch.
b
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
1
67).

Attach overcasting foot “G”.

c

a Needle drop point

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser CAUTION

foot” (page 41).
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you
d against the guide of the presser foot, and then
Position the fabric with the edge of the fabric
(counterclockwise) and check that the
lower the presser foot lever. needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.

a Guide

Overcasting Stitches 71
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”

Six stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot “J”.

Pattern Numeric Stitch Width Stitch Length

Key [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Zigzag stitch
05 Preventing fraying
(center 3.5 0.0–7.0 1.4 0.0–4.0
(center baseline/
needle (1/8) (0–1/4) (1/16) (0–3/16)
reverse stitching)
position)
2-point 06 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0
–
zigzag stitch Preventing fraying in (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
thick fabrics and
3-point 07 stretch fabrics 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0
zigzag stitch (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
J
11 Preventing fraying in 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.5–4.0
– (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/32–3/16)
stretch fabrics

12 Preventing fraying in
Overcasting 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.5–4.0
– thick fabrics and
stitch (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/32–3/16)
stretch fabrics
13 Preventing fraying in 4.0 0.0–7.0 4.0 1.0–4.0
– (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/16) (1/16–3/16)
stretch fabrics

Turn on the sewing machine. Sew along the edge of the fabric with the
a d needle dropping off the edge at the right.

b
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).

Attach zigzag foot “J”. a

c

a a

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

foot” (page 41).

a Needle drop point

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Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutter

Using the side cutter, seam allowances can be finished while the edge of the fabric is cut off. Four stitches can
be used to sew overcasting stitches with the side cutter.

Pattern Stitch Width Stitch Length

[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
01 Sewing straight stitches while 0.0 0.0–2.5 2.5 0.2–5.0
cutting the fabric (0) (0–3/32) (3/32) (1/64–3/16)

08 Preventing fraying in thin and

3.5 3.5–5.0 2.0 1.0–4.0
medium weight fabrics while (1/8) (1/8–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
Overcasting cutting the fabric
S
stitch
09 Preventing fraying in thick 5.0 3.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0
fabrics while cutting the fabric (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
3
21 Sewing zigzag stitches while 3.5 0.0–7.0 1.4 0.0–4.0
cutting the fabric (1/8) (0–1/4) (1/16) (0–3/16)

When using the side cutter, adjust the stitch width setting to a value within the range indicated in the table
above.
d onto the needle clamp screw.
Hook the connecting fork of the side cutter

a
Remove the presser foot.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41). a Connecting fork
b Needle clamp screw
Lower the presser foot lever, and then
b manually thread the needle. Position the side cutter so that side cutter pin
e is aligned with the notch in the presser foot
• The needle threader cannot be used. If the holder, and then slowly lower the presser foot
needle threader is used with the side cutter, lever.
the sewing machine may be damaged.

Raise the presser foot lever.

c
b
a

a Notch in presser foot holder

b Pin
X The side cutter is attached.

Overcasting Stitches 73
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Raise the presser foot lever to check that the Position the fabric in the side cutter.
f side cutter is securely attached. j The cut in the fabric should be positioned over
the guide plate of the side cutter.
Pass the upper thread under the side cutter,
g and then pull it out toward the rear of the
sewing machine.

a
a Guide plate
• If the fabric is not positioned correctly, the
fabric will not be cut.
Select a stitch.
h
Lower the presser foot lever, and then start
k sewing.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).

CAUTION
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.
X A seam allowance is cut while the stitching
Make a cut of about 2 cm (3/4 inch) long in is sewn.
i the fabric at the beginning of the stitching.
• If the stitching is sewn in a straight line, the
seam allowance will be about 5 mm
(3/16 inch).
1

a 2 cm (3/4 inch)

a 5 mm (3/16 inch)

Memo
z The side cutter can cut as much as one layer
of 13-oz. denim.
z After using the side cutter, clean it by
removing any lint or dust.
z If the side cutter can no longer cut fabric,
use a rag to apply a small amount of oil to
the cutting edge of the cutter.
z The optional side cutter is available through
your Brother dealer.

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Basic Stitching
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three stitches are available for basic stitching.

Pattern Numeric Stitch Width Stitch Length

Key [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Basic stitching and
Straight stitch 01 sewing gathers or 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2-5.0
(left needle

m
pintucks (left baseline/ (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16)
position)
reverse stitching)
Basic stitching and
Straight stitch
02 sewing gathers or
(center 3.5 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2-5.0 J
pintucks (center

.co
needle (1/8) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16)
baseline/reverse
position)
stitching)
Reinforcing seams
3
Triple stretch 03 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.5–4.0
and sewing stretch
stitch (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
fabrics

When sewing is finished, cut the thread.

g
es
Basic stitching • For details, refer to “Cutting the thread” (page
56).
Baste or pin together the fabric pieces.
a

b
Turn on the sewing machine.
uid

Select a stitch.
c
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).

d
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
-g

J
all

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

foot” (page 41).

e beginning of the stitching.

Lower the needle into the fabric at the

f
Start sewing.
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page
52).
• For details on sewing reverse/reinforcement
stitches, refer to “Securing the stitching”
(page 54).

Basic Stitching 75
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

■ Changing the needle position

The needle position used as the baseline is
different for the straight stitch (left needle
position) and the straight stitch (center needle
position).

1 2

a Straight stitch (left needle position)

b Straight stitch (center needle position)
When the stitch width of the straight stitch (left
needle position) is set to its standard setting
(0.0 mm), the distance from the needle position to
the right side of the presser foot is 12 mm
(1/2 inch). If the stitch width is changed (between
0 and 7.0 mm (1/4 inch)), the needle position will
also change. By changing the stitch width and
sewing with the right side of the presser foot
aligned with the edge of the fabric, a seam
allowance can be sewn with a fixed width.

1
0.0 2.0 5.5 7.0

3 4 5 6
2
a Stitch width setting
b Distance from the needle position to the right
side of the presser foot
c 12.0 mm (1/2 inch)
d 10.0 mm (3/8 inch)
e 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
f 5.0 mm (3/16 inch)

• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch width”

(page 58).

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Blind Hem Stitching

Secure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitching.

Pattern Numeric Stitch Width Stitch Length

Key [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
14 Blind hem stitching on
00 2.0 1.0–3.5
medium weight (0) – 3← →3 (1/16) (1/16–1/8)
Blind hem fabrics
R
stitch
15 Blind hem stitching on 00 2.0 1.0–3.5
– – 3← →3
stretch fabrics (0) (1/16) (1/16–1/8)

Sew a blind hem according to the following procedure.

3
a hem, and then baste it about 5 mm (3/16 inch) e
Fold the fabric along the desired edge of the Attach blind stitch foot “R”.

from the edge of the fabric.

R

2 • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

foot” (page 41).
1 3

f hem against the guide of the presser foot, and

Position the fabric with the edge of the folded

then lower the presser foot lever.

a Wrong side of fabric
b Basting stitching
c Desired edge of hem
d 5 mm (3/16 inch)
R

b then position the fabric with the wrong side

Fold back the fabric along the basting, and

facing up.
a
c
2 b
a Wrong side of fabric
b Fold of hem
c Guide

a Wrong side of fabric

b Basting

c
Turn on the sewing machine.

Select a stitch.
d
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).

Blind Hem Stitching 77

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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly ■ If the needle does not catch the hem fold
g catches the fold of the hem.
The needle is too far to the right.
Press (of the Stitch width keys) to
a increase the stitch width so that the needle
R b slightly catches the fold of the hem.

a Needle
b Needle drop point
c Fold of hem

1 2

1
a Wrong side of fabric
– + b Right side of fabric
• For details on changing the stitch width, refer
to “Adjusting the Stitch Width and Length”
(page 58).

h presser foot guide.

Sew with the fold of the hem against the

i
a Stitch width Remove the basting stitching.
■ If the needle catches too much of the hem
fold
The needle is too far to the left.
Press (of the Stitch width keys) to
decrease the stitch width so that the needle 1 2
slightly catches the fold of the hem.

a Wrong side of fabric

b Right side of fabric

1 2

a Wrong side of fabric

b Right side of fabric

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Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing

Buttonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Ten stitches are available for sewing one-step
buttonholes and one stitch for sewing on buttons.

Pattern Numeric Stitch Width Stitch Length

Key [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Horizontal
42 buttonholes on thin 5.0 3.0–5.0 0.5 0.2–1.0
–
and medium weight (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
fabrics
Horizontal
43 buttonholes on areas 5.0 3.0–5.0 0.5 0.2–1.0
– (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
that are subject to
strain 3
44 Horizontal
5.0 3.0–5.0 0.5 0.2–1.0
– buttonholes on thick (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
fabrics
45 Buttonholes with bar
tacks on both ends for 5.0 3.0–5.0 0.5 0.2–1.0
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
stabilized fabrics
46 Buttonholes for stretch 6.0 3.0–6.0 1.0 0.5–2.0
Buttonhole –
or knit fabrics (15/64) (1/8–15/64) (1/16) (1/32–1/16) A
stitch
47 Buttonholes for stretch 6.0 3.0–6.0 1.5 1.0–3.0
–
fabrics (15/64) (1/8–15/64) (1/16) (1/16–1/8)
48 5.0 0.0–6.0 2.0 0.2–4.0
– Bound buttonholes (3/16) (0–15/64) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)

49 Keyhole buttonholes
– for thick or plush 7.0 3.0–7.0 0.5 0.3–1.0
(1/4) (1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
fabrics
50 Keyhole buttonholes
7.0 3.0–7.0 0.5 0.3–1.0
– for medium weight (1/4) (1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
and thick fabrics
51 Horizontal buttonhole
– for thick or plush 7.0 3.0–7.0 0.5 0.3–1.0
(1/4) (1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
fabrics
Button- 53 3.5 2.5–4.5
– Button sewing (1/8) (3/32–3/16) – – M
sewing stitch

Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 79

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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Buttonhole sewing
The maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inches) (diameter + thickness of the button).
Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown below.

m
1

.co 1
es
1
uid

a Reinforcement stitching

The names of parts of buttonhole foot “A”, which is Use chalk to mark on the fabric the position
used for sewing buttonholes, are indicated below. a and length of the buttonhole.

a b
-g

2
all

a Marks on fabric
5

b foot “A”, and then insert the button that will

Pull out the button guide plate of buttonhole
3
be put through the buttonhole.

a Button guide plate

b Presser foot scale
c Pin
d Marks on buttonhole foot
e 5 mm (3/16 inch)

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■ If the button does not fit in the button guide Position the fabric with the front end of the
plate e buttonhole mark aligned with the red marks on

Add together the diameter and thickness of the sides of the buttonhole foot, and then
the button, and then set the button guide lower the presser foot lever.
plate to the calculated length. (The distance 1
between the markings on the presser foot
scale is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)

1 A
2
a Mark on fabric
b Red marks on buttonhole foot
Pass the upper thread down through the hole in
2 the presser foot.
3
• When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
3
buttonhole will not be sewn with the correct
a Presser foot scale
b Length of buttonhole (Diameter + thickness of size.
button)
c 5 mm (3/16 inch)
Example: For a button with a diameter of
15 mm (9/16 inch) and a thickness of 10 mm
(3/8 inch), the button guide plate should be set
to 25 mm (1 inch) on the scale.

1
a
a Do not reduce the gap.

2
f possible.
Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as
a 10 mm (3/8 inch)
b 15 mm (9/16 inch)
X The size of the buttonhole is set. a

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

c
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).

Select a stitch. a Buttonhole lever

d
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
67). bracket on the buttonhole foot.
1

2
a Buttonhole lever
b Bracket

Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 81

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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Gently hold the end of the upper thread in

g your left hand, and then start sewing.

X Once sewing is completed, the machine

a Eyelet punch
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops. • When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever, the fabric before punching the hole in the
h and then remove the fabric. fabric.

Raise the buttonhole lever to its original

i position.
CAUTION
● When opening the buttonhole with the
Insert a pin along the inside of one bar tack at seam ripper, do not place your hands in
j the end of the buttonhole stitching to prevent the cutting direction, otherwise injuries
the stitching from being cut. may result if the seam ripper slips.
1 ● Do not use the seam ripper in any other
way than how it is intended.

■ Changing the density of the stitching

Adjust the stitch length.

a Pin – +
Use the seam ripper to cut towards the pin and
k open the buttonhole.

a Seam ripper • For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch

For keyhole buttonholes, use the eyelet punch length” (page 59).
to make a hole in the rounded end of the • If the fabric does not feed (for example, if it is
buttonhole, and then use the seam ripper to cut too thick), decrease the density of the
open the buttonhole. stitching.

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■ Changing the stitch width Turn on the sewing machine.

b
Adjust the stitch width.
Select stitch 46 or 47 .
c
– +
Attach buttonhole foot “A”.
d
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).

Adjust the stitch width to the thickness of the

e gimp thread.

Lower the presser foot lever and the

f buttonhole lever, and then start sewing.

When sewing is finished, gently pull the gimp

g thread to remove any slack.
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
width” (page 58).
3

Memo
z Before sewing buttonholes, check the stitch
length and width by sewing a trial
buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric.

Use a handsewing needle to pull the gimp

h thread to the wrong side of the fabric, and
■ Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics
When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use
then tie it.
a gimp thread.
With a seam ripper, cut the middle part of the
Hook the gimp thread onto the part of i gimp thread remaining at the top end of the
a buttonhole foot “A” shown in the illustration
buttonhole.
so that it fits into the grooves, and then loosely
Trim off any excess of the gimp thread.
tie it.

Note
z If gimp thread is not available use a thread
or cord of at least 12 weight.

Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 83

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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Adjust the stitch width so that it is the same as

f the distance between the holes in the button.
Button sewing
Place the button into button fitting foot “M”.
g
Buttons can be sewn on with the sewing machine.
Buttons with 2 or with 4 holes can be attached.

Measure the distance between the holes in the

a button to be attached.

a
a Button
Raise the presser foot lever, and then slide the
b drop feed lever, located at the rear of the X The button is held in place.
machine on the base, to (to the left as • When attaching four-hole buttons, first sew
seen from the rear of the machine). the two holes closest to you. Then, slide the
button so that the needle goes into the two
holes toward the rear of the sewing machine,
and then sew them in the same way.

h (counterclockwise) to check that the needle

Turn the handwheel toward you
a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the
machine) correctly goes into the two holes of the button.
X The feed dogs are lowered. If it seems as if the needle will hit the button,
remeasure the distance between the holes in
Turn on the sewing machine. the button. Adjust the stitch width to the
c distance between the button holes.

Select stitch 53 .
d

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

67).

Attach button fitting foot “M”.

e

CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser does not touch the button, otherwise the
foot” (page 41). needle may bend or break.

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Start sewing. ■ Attaching a shank to a button

i Set the sewing speed controller to the left (so
To sew the button with a shank, attach the button
that the speed will be slow). with space between it and the fabric, and then
wind the thread by hand. This attaches the button
securely.

Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”,

a and then pull the shank lever toward you.

m
X The sewing machine automatically stops
after sewing reinforcement stitches.
• If additional strength is needed to secure the

.co
button, perform the button-sewing operation
twice. a Shank lever 3
Use scissors to cut the upper thread and the
j bobbin thread at the beginning of the stitching.
After sewing is finished, cut the upper thread
b with plenty of excess, wind it around the
Pull the upper thread at the end of the stitching thread between the button and the fabric, and
to the wrong side of the fabric, and then tie it then tie it to the upper thread at the beginning
es
with the bobbin thread. of the stitching.
Tie together the ends of the bobbin thread at
the end and at the beginning of the stitching on
the wrong side of the fabric.
uid

When you are finished attaching the button,

k slide the drop feed lever to (to the right
as seen from the rear of the machine) to raise
Cut off any excess thread.
the feed dogs. c
-g
all

a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the

machine)

Memo
z The feed dog position switch is normally set
to the right side (as seen from the rear of
machine).
z The feed dogs come up when you start
sewing again.

Buttonhole Stitching/Button Sewing 85

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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Zipper Insertion
A zipper can be sewn in place.

Pattern Numeric Stitch Width Stitch Length

Key [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Straight stitch
02 Attaching zippers I
(center 3.5 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–5.0
Sewing concealed
needle (1/8) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16)
seams and pintucks
position)

There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a centered zipper and a side
zipper are described below.
Baste the two pieces up to the edge of the
c fabric.
Inserting a centered zipper

Stitching is sewn on both pieces of fabric butted 1

against each other.
3
2
b
4
a
a Basting stitching
b Reverse stitches
c c Wrong side of fabric
a Right side of fabric d End of zipper opening
b Stitching
Press open the seam allowance from the
d wrong side of the fabric.
c End of zipper opening

Turn on the sewing machine.

a
Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight stitches 1
b up to the zipper opening.
With the right sides of the fabric facing each
other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the
zipper opening.
• For details, refer to “Basic stitching” (page a Wrong side of fabric
75).
Align the seam with the center of the zipper,
e and then baste the zipper in place.

a Wrong side of fabric

b Basting stitching
c Zipper

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Topstitch around the zipper.

h
Select stitch 02
f
.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

67). 1
3
CAUTION 2
● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to
select the straight stitch (center needle
position), and slowly turn the handwheel 4
toward you (counterclockwise) to check
that the needle does not touch the presser
foot. If a different stitch is selected or the
needle hits the presser foot, the needle
may bend or break.
3
g of zipper foot “I”.
Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin

a Stitching
1 b Right side of fabric
c Basting stitching
d End of zipper opening
I

2 CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
a Pin on the right side needle may bend or break.
b Needle drop point
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
i
Remove the basting stitching.
foot” (page 41).

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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Press open the seam allowance from the

d wrong side of the fabric.
Inserting a side zipper

Stitching is sewn on only one piece of fabric. Use this

type of zipper application for side openings and back 1
openings.

a b a Wrong side of fabric

Press the seam allowance so that the right side
e (the side that will not be stitched) has an extra
3 mm (1/8 inch).

c
a Stitching
b Right side of fabric
c End of zipper opening 1
The following procedure will describe how to stitch
on the left side, as shown in the illustration.
2
Turn on the sewing machine.
a
a Wrong side of fabric
b 3 mm (1/8 inch)

b fabric.
Baste the two pieces up to the edge of the Align the zipper teeth with the pressed edge of
f the fabric having the extra 3 mm (1/8 inch),
and then baste or pin the zipper in place.
1

3 2
2
1
4

a Zipper teeth
b Basting stitching
a Basting stitching
b Reverse stitches Select stitch 02 .
c Wrong side of fabric g
d End of zipper opening
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
Attach zigzag foot “J” and sew straight stitches
c up to the zipper opening.
67).

With the right sides of the fabric facing each CAUTION

other, sew reverse stitches after reaching the
zipper opening. ● When using zipper foot “I”, be sure to
• For details, refer to “Basic stitching” (page
select the straight stitch (center needle
75). position), and slowly turn the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) to check
that the needle does not touch the presser
foot. If a different stitch is selected or the
needle hits the presser foot, the needle
may bend or break.

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Attach the presser foot holder to the right pin Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then
h of zipper foot “I”. k baste the other side of the zipper to the fabric.
If the stitching will be sewn on the right side,
attach the presser foot holder to the left pin of
the zipper foot.
1

I
1
2

a Basting stitching
a Pin on the right side
b Needle drop point
l of zipper foot “I”.
Attach the presser foot holder to the other pin
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41). If the presser foot holder was attached to the
right pin in step h, change it to the left pin. 3
Sew the zipper to the piece of fabric with the
i extra 3 mm (1/8 inch), starting from the base
1

of the zipper.
I

a Pin on the left side

b Needle drop point
Topstitch around the zipper.
m Sew reverse stitches at the end of the zipper
opening and align the zipper teeth with the side
of the presser foot.

CAUTION 3
● When sewing, be sure that the needle 4
2
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.
1 5

j end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine

When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the

with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise

the presser foot lever, and then open the a Right side of fabric
zipper and continue sewing. b End of zipper opening
c Reverse stitches
d Beginning of stitching
e Basting stitching

CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch the zipper, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.

Zipper Insertion 89
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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

When you are about 5 cm (2 inches) from the

n end of the zipper, stop the sewing machine
with the needle lowered (in the fabric), raise
the presser foot lever, and then open the
zipper and continue sewing.

Remove the basting stitching.

o

m
.co
es
uid
-g
all

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Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape

Stretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.

Pattern Numeric Stitch Width Stitch Length

Key [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
04 1.0 1.0–3.0 2.5 1.0–4.0
Stretch stitch Stretch fabrics (1/16) (1/16–1/8) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)

2-point 06 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0

– (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
zigzag stitch
Attaching elastic J
3-point 07 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0
zigzag stitch (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Elastic- 31 Attaching elastic to 4.0 0.0–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0
3
attaching – (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
stretch fabrics
stitch

Observe the corresponding precautions when performing each of the following stitching operations.

Stretch stitching Elastic attaching

Turn on the sewing machine. When elastic tape is attached to the cuff or waist of a
a piece of clothing, the finished dimensions will be that
Select stitch 04 of the stretched elastic tape. therefore, it is necessary
b
.
that a suitable length of the elastic tape be used.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

a fabric.
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of the
67).
Pin the elastic tape to the fabric at a few points
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c
to make sure that the tape is uniformly
positioned on the fabric.
J

1
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).

Sew the fabric without stretching it.

d
2

a Elastic tape
b Pin

Turn on the sewing machine.

b

c
Select a stitch.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).

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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

d

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

foot” (page 41).

Sew the elastic tape to the fabric while

e stretching the tape so that it is the same length
as the fabric.
While pulling the fabric behind the presser foot
with your left hand, pull the fabric at the pin
nearest the front of the presser foot with your
right hand.

CAUTION
● When sewing, be sure that the needle
does not touch any pins, otherwise the
needle may bend or break.

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Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching

The stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and quilts are described below.

Pattern Numeric Stitch Width Stitch Length

Key [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
05 Attaching appliqués
3.5 0.0–7.0 1.4 0.0–4.0
(center baseline/ (1/8) (0–1/4) (1/16) (0–3/16)
reverse stitching)
Zigzag stitch
21 Appliqué quilting,
– free-motion quilting, 3.5 0.0–7.0 1.4 0.0–4.0
(1/8) (0–1/4) (1/16) (0–3/16)
satin stitching
16 3.5 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.6–4.0
– Attaching appliqués (1/8) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
22
3
Appliqué Attaching appliqués 1.5 0.5–3.5 1.8 1.0–4.0
–
stitch and binding (1/16) (1/32–1/8) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
23 Attaching appliqués 1.5 0.5–3.5 1.8 1.0–4.0
– (1/16) (1/32–1/8) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
and binding
Piecing straight
stitching (with a seam
18 allowance of 6.5 mm 5.5 0.0–7.0 2.0 0.2–5.0
–
(1/4 inch) from the (7/32) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
right edge of the
Piecing presser foot)
J
straight stitch Piecing straight
stitching (with a seam
19 allowance of 6.5 mm 1.5 0.0–7.0 2.0 0.2–5.0
–
(1/4 inch) from the left (1/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
edge of the presser
foot)
26 4.0 0.0–7.0 1.2 0.2–4.0
–
(3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
27 5.0 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0
Joining stitch – Patchwork stitching (3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
28 5.0 0.0–7.0 1.2 0.2–4.0
– (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
Straight stitch quilting
Mock hand 20 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0
– that looks hand
quilting stitch (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
quilting
Quilting 24 7.0 1.0–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0
– Stippling (1/4) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
stippling

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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

f
Appliqué stitching
J
Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam
a allowance of between 3 and 5 mm (1/8 and
3/16 inch).

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

1 foot” (page 41).

Turn the handwheel toward you

g (counterclockwise), and then begin sewing
around the edge of the appliqué, making sure
that the needle drops just outside of the
appliqué.
a Seam allowance

Place a pattern made of thick paper or

b stabilizer on the back of the appliqué, and then
fold over the seam allowance using an iron.

• Remove the thick paper after pressing the

seam allowance. When sewing around corners, stop the
machine with the needle in the fabric just
Turn the fabric over, and then baste or pin it
c onto the fabric that it will be attached to.
outside of the appliqué, raise the presser foot
lever, and then turn the fabric as needed to
change the sewing direction.

a Basting stitching

Turn on the sewing machine.

d
Select a stitch.
e
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).

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Patchwork (crazy quilt) Piecing

stitching
Sewing together two pieces of fabric is called
Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and “piecing”. The fabric pieces should be cut with a
a place it over the lower piece. 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance.
Sew a piecing straight stitch 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) from
Sew the two pieces of fabric together so the either the right side or the left side of the presser foot.
b pattern spans over both pieces.
Baste or pin along the seam allowance of the
a fabric that you wish to piece together.

m
Turn on the sewing machine.
b

Select stitch 18 or 19
c
.

.co d
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

3
es
J

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

uid

foot” (page 41).

Sew with the side of the presser foot aligned

e with the edge of the fabric.

■ For a seam allowance on the right side

Align the right side of the presser foot with
-g

the edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch

18
.

1
all

a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)

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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

■ For a seam allowance on the left side

Align the left side of the presser foot with the Quilting
edge of the fabric, and sew using stitch
19 Sandwiching batting between the top and bottom
. layers of fabric is called “quilting”. Quilts can easily
be sewn using the optional walking foot and the
1 optional quilting guide.

a
Baste the fabric to be quilted.

Turn on the sewing machine.

b
Select a stitch.
c
• For details, refer to “Selecting Stitching”
a 6.5 mm (1/4 inch)
(page 66).

Attach the walking foot.

Memo d
z To change the width of the seam allowance • For details, refer to “Using the optional
(the needle position), adjust the stitch width. walking foot” (page 44).

e foot, and hold fabric taut while sewing.

Place one hand on each side of the presser

Note
z When sewing with the walking foot, sew at a
speed between slow and medium.

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■ Using the optional quilting guide

Use the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that Free-motion quilting
are equally spaced.
With free-motion quilting, lower the feed dogs (using
the drop feed lever) so that the fabric can be moved
freely in any direction.
The optional quilting foot is needed for free-motion
quilting.

Insert the stem of the quilting guide into the

a hole at the rear of the walking foot or presser
foot holder.
† Walking foot
Turn off the sewing machine.
a
Remove the presser foot and the presser foot
b holder. 3
• Refer to “Removing the presser foot holder”
(page 43).
Secure the quilting foot with the presser foot
† Presser foot holder c holder screw.
The pin on the quilting foot should be
positioned over the needle clamp screw.
a

c
Adjust the stem of the quilting guide so that b
b the guide aligns with the seam that has already
been sewn.
a Pin on quilting foot
b Presser foot holder screw
c Needle clamp screw

d hand, and then tighten the presser foot holder

Hold the quilting foot in place with your right

screw using the screwdriver in your left hand.

a
Note
z The optional quilting guide is available
through your Brother dealer.

a Presser foot holder screw

CAUTION
● Be sure to securely tighten the screws
with the screwdriver, otherwise the
needle may touch the presser foot,
causing it to bend or break.

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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Slide the drop feed lever, located at the rear of

e the machine on the base, to (to the left as Satin stitching using the
seen from the rear of the machine). sewing speed controller

A decorative stitch can be sewn by changing the

stitch width of a satin stitch. If the sewing machine is
set so that the stitch width can be adjusted using the
a sewing speed controller, the stitch width can quickly
and easily be adjusted. In this case, the sewing speed
is adjusted with the foot controller.

Connect the foot controller.

a
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page
a Feed dog position switch (as seen from the rear of 52).
the machine)

b
X The feed dogs are lowered. Turn on the sewing machine.

Turn on the sewing machine, and then select a

f stitch.
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
J
67).

g then move the fabric to follow the pattern.

Use both hands to hold the fabric taut, and

Reinforcement stitches are sewn at the • For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
beginning and end of sewing. foot” (page 41).

Press (Settings key) in the operation

d panel.
a

X The settings screen appears.

a Pattern
e
Press or (Stitch length keys) until
is displayed.
After sewing is finished, slide the drop feed
h lever to (to the right as seen from the rear
of the machine) to raise the feed dogs.

a
X The screen for specifying that the stitch
width can be controlled with the sewing
speed controller appears.

a Drop feed lever (as seen from the rear of the

machine)
• Normally, the drop feed lever is positioned at
the right.

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Press or (Stitch width keys) to select When you are finished sewing, set the stitch
f j width control setting back to OFF.
.
To return to , press or (Stitch
width keys).
Memo
z Although the stitching result differs depending
on the type of fabric being sewn and the
thickness of the thread being used, for best
results, adjust the stitch length to between 0.3
and 0.5 mm (1/64 and 1/32 inch).

X The machine is now set so that the stitch

width can be controlled with the sewing
3
speed controller.

Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear

g key).

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

Select stitch 21 .
h

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

67).

While sewing, slide the sewing speed

i controller to adjust the stitch width.
Slide the controller to the left to make the width
narrower. Slide the controller to the right to
make the width wider.

1 2
a Narrower
b Wider

• Adjust the sewing speed with the foot

controller.

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 99

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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Reinforcement Stitching
Reinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners.

Pattern Numeric Stitch Width Stitch Length

Key [mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
03 Reinforcing the seams
Triple stretch 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.5–4.0
of sleeves and (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) J
stitch

m
inseams
52 Reinforcing the ends
Bar tack 2.0 1.0–3.0 0.4 0.3–1.0
– of openings, such as A
stitch (1/16) (1/16–1/8) (1/64) (1/64–1/16)
the corners of pockets

Triple stretch stitching

and inseams.
.co
Use triple stretch stitching to reinforce sleeve holes
Bar tack stitching

Bar tacks are used to reinforce points subject to

strain, such as pocket corners and openings.
As an example, the procedure for sewing bar tacks at
es
Turn on the sewing machine. pocket corners is described below.
a

Select stitch 03 .
b

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

uid

67).

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

c
Determine the desired length of the bar tack.
J a Set the button guide plate on buttonhole foot
“A” to the desired length. (The distance
-g

between the markings on the presser foot scale

is 5 mm (3/16 inch).)
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
1
foot” (page 41).
all

Start sewing.
d
• For details, refer to “Starting to sew” (page
52). 2
3

a Presser foot scale

b Length of bar tack
c 5 mm (3/16 inch)
• A bar tack with a maximum length of about
28 mm (1–1/8 inches) can be sewn.

b
Turn on the sewing machine.

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Pull down the buttonhole lever as far as

g possible.
Select stitch 52
c
.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page a

67).

Attach buttonhole foot “A”.

d
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
a Buttonhole lever

e in the presser foot, and then pull it under the

Pass the upper thread down through the hole The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the
bracket on the buttonhole foot.
presser foot, as shown.
1

3
2
a Buttonhole lever

f position the fabric so that the needle drops 2

With the opening of the pocket toward you, b Bracket

Gently hold the end of the upper thread in

h your left hand, and then start sewing.
mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket opening,
and then lower the presser foot lever.

a
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
a 2 mm (1/16 inch)
then stops.

Cut the threads, raise the presser foot lever,

Note i and then remove the fabric.
z When lowering the presser foot, do not push
in the front of the presser foot, otherwise the
Raise the buttonhole lever to its original
bar tack will not be sewn with the correct j position.
size.

Memo
z If the fabric does not feed, for example,
because it is too thick, increase the stitch
length. For details, refer to “Adjusting the
stitch length” (page 59).

Reinforcement Stitching 101

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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Eyelet Stitching
Eyelets, such as those on belts, can be sewn. Three sizes of eyelets are possible: 7 mm, 6 mm and 5 mm
(1/4, 15/64 and 3/16 inch).

Pattern Stitch Width Stitch Length

[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
7.0, 6.0 or
54 Sewing eyelets, for example, on 7.0 5.0
Eyelet stitch – – N
belts (1/4) (1/4, 15/64
or 3/16)

a f
Turn on the sewing machine. Start sewing.
X Once sewing is completed, the machine
Select stitch 54 .
b
automatically sews reinforcement stitches,
then stops.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
Use the eyelet punch to cut a hole in the
67). g center of the eyelet.

c
Attach monogramming foot “N”.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

foot” (page 41).

d length to select the desired eyelet size.

Adjust either the stitch width or the stitch
• When using the eyelet punch, place thick
paper or some other protective sheet under
the fabric before punching the hole in the
fabric.
a b c
a 7 mm (1/4 inch)
b 6 mm (15/64 inch) Memo
c 5 mm (3/16 inch) z If light weight thread is used, the stitching
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch may be sparse. If this occurs, sew the eyelet
width” (page 58). twice before removing the fabric, one on top
of the other.
Lower the needle into the fabric at the
e beginning of the stitching, and then lower the
presser foot lever.

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Decorative Stitching
Various decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewing machine.

Pattern Stitch Width Stitch Length

[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
29 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0
(3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
Fagoting Sewing two pieces of fabric
stitch 30 together across an open seam
5.0 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0
(3/16) (3/25–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
26 4.0 0.0–7.0 1.2 0.2–4.0
(3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)

Joining stitch
27
Decorative bridging stitches
5.0 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 3
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
28 5.0 0.0–7.0 1.2 0.2–4.0 J
(3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)

Shell tuck 17 Shell tuck stitching on collars 4.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–4.0
stitch and curves (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16)
29 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0
(3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)

Smocking 30 Smocking fabrics to add texture 5.0 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0

stitch and elasticity (3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
40 5.0 0.0–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0
(3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
25 5.0 2.5–7.0 0.5 0.1–1.0
Scallop stitch Satin scallop stitching
(3/16) (3/32–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16)
36 3.5 1.5–7.0 2.5 1.6–4.0
Lace sewing, decorative (1/8) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
hemming, heirloom stitching,
37 etc. 6.0 1.5–7.0 3.0 1.5–4.0
(15/64) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16)
38 5.0 1.5–7.0 3.5 1.5–4.0 N
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16)
Hemstitching
39 5.0 1.5–7.0 4.0 1.5–4.0
Decorative hemming and
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/16) (1/16–3/16)
heirloom stitching, etc. on thin,
40 medium weight and plain weave
5.0 1.5–7.0 2.5 1.5–4.0
fabrics (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
41 5.0 1.5–7.0 2.0 1.5–4.0
(3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
32 4.0 0.0–7.0 3.0 2.0–4.0
Ladder stitch Decorative stitching J
(3/16) (0–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16)

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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Pattern Stitch Width Stitch Length

[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Presser
Stitch Name Application
Foot
Auto Manual Auto Manual
Rick-rack 33 4.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0
stitch (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
J
Decorative 34 5.5 0.0–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0
Decorative stitching (7/32) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)
stitch

Serpentine 35 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 N

stitch (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)

Attach zigzag foot “J”.

e
Fagoting
J
Stitching across an open seam is called “fagoting”. It
is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stitch
is more decorative when thicker thread is used.
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
Use an iron to fold the two pieces of fabric foot” (page 41).
a along their seams.
Set the stitch width to 7.0 mm (1/4 inch).
Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated by f
b about 4 mm (3/16 inch), onto thin paper or a • For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch
width” (page 58).
sheet of water-soluble stabilizer.
If you draw a line down the middle of the thin
g along the center of the two pieces of fabric.
Sew with the center of the presser foot aligned
paper or water-soluble stabilizer, sewing is
easier.
3

2
a Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer
b Basting stitching
c 4 mm (3/16 inch)

c
Turn on the sewing machine.

Select stitch 29 or 30 .
d
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67). After sewing is finished, remove the paper.
h

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Scallop stitching Smocking

The wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like The decorative stitch created by stitching or
shells is called “scalloping”. It is used on the collars of embroidering over gathers is called “smocking”. It is
blouses and to decorate the edges of handkerchiefs. used to decorate the front of blouses or cuffs.
The smocking stitch adds texture and elasticity to
Turn on the sewing machine. fabric.
a
Select stitch 25 . Turn on the sewing machine.
b a

m
b stitch length to 4.0 mm (3/16 inch) and loosen
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page Select the straight stitch, and then adjust the
67).
the thread tension.

c
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
• For details, refer to “Adjusting the stitch

.co
length” (page 59) and “Changing the tension
of the upper thread” (page 57).
3
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
c

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser J

foot” (page 41).
es
d not to sew directly on the edge of the fabric.
Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making sure
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser
foot” (page 41).
uid

Sew parallel stitching at intervals of 1 cm

d (3/8 inch).

1
-g

• For better results, apply spray starch to the

fabric and press with a hot iron before it is
sewn.

Trim along the stitches.

e
a 1 cm (3/8 inch)
all

• It is not necessary to sew reverse/

reinforcement stitches or cut the thread.
• At the end of the stitching, the thread is
pulled out about 5 cm (2 inches).

e Smooth the gathers by ironing them.

Pull the bobbin threads to create gathers.

• Be careful not to cut the stitches.

Decorative Stitching 105

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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Select stitch 29 , 30 or 40 . Attach zigzag foot “J”.

f d
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
J
67).

g
Stitch between the straight stitches.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

foot” (page 41).

Sew while making sure that the needle drops

e slightly off the edge of the fabric.

1
h
Pull out the threads for the straight stitches.

Shell tuck stitching

a Needle drop point

The gathers that look like shells are called “shell

Unfold the fabric, and then iron the tucks
tucks”. They are used to decorate trims, the front of f down to one side.
blouses or cuffs made of thin fabrics.

Fold the fabric along the bias.

a

Turn on the sewing machine.

b

Select stitch 17 , and then increase the

c
thread tension.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).

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Joining Heirloom stitching

Decorative bridging stitches can be sewn over the When sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes
seam allowance of joined fabrics. This is used when are enlarged, creating a lace-like decorative stitch.
making a crazy quilt. This is used to decorate hems and tablecloths on thin
or medium weight fabrics in addition to plain weave
Turn on the sewing machine. fabrics.
a
Sew together the right sides of the two pieces
b of fabric, and then open up the seam
CAUTION
allowances. ● The needle threader cannot be used with
the wing needle, otherwise the sewing
2 machine may be damaged. Manually pass
the thread through the eye of the needle
1
from the front to the back. For details,
refer to “Upper Threading” (page 28).
1
3
Insert the wing needle.
a
3
a Wrong side of fabric
b 6.5 mm (1/4 inch) seam allowance
c Straight stitch

c
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
• Use a 130/705H 100/16 wing needle.

J • For details on inserting a needle, refer to

“Replacing the needle” (page 39).

Turn on the sewing machine.

b
• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser Select stitch , 32 , 36 , 37 , 38 ,
foot” (page 41). c

39 , 40 or 41 .
Select stitch 26 , 27 or 28
d
.

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

d
Attach monogramming foot “N”.
67).

Turn the fabric over so that the right side faces CAUTION
e up, and then sew over the seam with the
center of the presser foot aligned with the ● Select a stitch width of 6.0 mm (15/64
seam. inch) or less, otherwise the needle may
bend or break.
● After adjusting the stitch width, slowly
turn the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.
a Right side of fabric

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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Start sewing. With the right side of the fabric facing up, sew
e e along the right edge of the frayed section.

Partially removing threads is called “drawnwork”.

This gives a beautiful result with fabrics that have a Press (Settings key) in the operation
loose weave. f
panel.
Two ways to create drawnwork are described below.
■ Drawnwork (Example 1) X The settings screen appears.

Press or (Stitch length keys) until

g
is displayed.

Pull out several threads from the fabric.

a

X The screen for mirror imaging the pattern

9

appears.
Turn on the sewing machine.
b

Select stitch 36 .
c

• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page

67).

Attach monogramming foot “N”.

d

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

foot” (page 41).

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Press or (Stitch width keys) to select ■ Drawnwork (Example 2)

h
.
To return to , press or (Stitch
width keys).

Pull out several threads from two sections of

a the fabric, separated by an unfrayed section of

X The pattern is flipped. about 4 mm (3/16 inch).

3
Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear
i key).
1
X The initial stitch screen appears again. a 4 mm (3/16 inch)

Turn on the sewing machine.

b

Select stitch 39 .
c

Sew along the other edge of the frayed section

j so that it looks like the previous stitching.
• For details, refer to “Selecting stitching” (page
67).

Attach monogramming foot “N”.

d

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

Set the mirror image pattern setting back to foot” (page 41).
k .
Sew along the center of the unfrayed section.
e

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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns

Satin stitches, cross-stitches and decorative satin stitches can be sewn. All are sewn with monogramming
foot “N”.
Start sewing.
d
Sewing beautiful patterns

In order to sew the patterns correctly, the following

must be considered.

m
■ Fabric
Before sewing stretch or thin fabrics or fabrics
with a coarse weave, affix the optional stabilizer
material to the wrong side of the fabric or place a

.co
thin sheet of paper, such as tracing paper, under
the fabric. Since material puckering or bunched
stitches may occur when satin stitches are sewn,
be sure to affix stabilizer material to the fabric.
■ Needles and threads
es
When sewing thin, medium weight or stretch
fabrics, use the ball point needle. When sewing
• The stitching is sewn in the direction
thick fabrics, use a 90/14 home sewing machine
indicated by the arrow.
needle. In addition, #50-#60 thread should be
used. Sew reinforcement stitches.
e When sewing with a character stitch,
uid

■ Trial sewing
reinforcement stitches are automatically sewn
Depending on the type and thickness of the fabric
after each character.
being sewn and whether or not stabilizer material
is used, the desired result may not be achieved. • When sewing a pattern with a stitch other
Be sure to sew a trial piece of fabric before than a character stitch, it is useful to first set
sewing your project. In addition, while sewing, be the automatic reverse/reinforcement stitching
setting. For details, refer to “Automatically
-g

sure to guide the fabric with your hands in order

sewing reverse/reinforcement stitches” (page
to prevent the fabric from slipping.
60).

f trim off any excess threads at the beginning of

Sewing patterns When you are finished sewing, use scissors to
all

Turn on the sewing machine. the stitching and between the patterns.
a
Select a stitch.
b
• For details, refer to steps d through f of
“Selecting stitching” (page 67).

Attach monogramming foot “N”.

c

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

foot” (page 41).

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Repeat steps b .
c
Combining patterns

Multiple patterns can be combined and sewn

together.
After all of the desired patterns are selected,
Character stitches and utility decorative stitches d start sewing.
(stitches selected with ) can be combined.
1
However, utility stitches (stitches selected with
and ) cannot be combined.

Select the first pattern.

a
a Sewing direction
X The first pattern is selected and appears in X The order that the patterns appear in the
the LCD. LCD is the order that they will be sewn.
3

• When the sewing is started, the selected

pattern is sewn repeatedly until the sewing
machine is stopped.

b
Select the next pattern.
Use the numeric keys to type in the number for
Note
the desired stitch.
z When the combined pattern is sewn at least
To change the stitch type, press one time, sewing of the combined pattern is
temporarily stopped. Typing in the number
(Character/utility decorative stitch key). After of a stitch after sewing clears the combined
the icon for the desired stitch mode appears in pattern and selects the new stitch, instead of
adding the new stitch to the combined
the lower-left corner of the screen, type in the pattern.
number for the desired stitch. z If you do not wish to clear the pattern, save it
before typing in the number of the new
stitch. For details on saving patterns, refer to
“Saving patterns” (page 114).

Memo
z Up to 35 patterns can be combined.
z If multiple patterns have been combined, the
X The combined patterns appear in the LCD.
sewing machine stops once all the selected
patterns displayed in the LCD have been
sewn. To repeatedly sew the combined
pattern, refer to “Repeat sewing patterns”.
• To remove a selected pattern, press z The combined pattern can be saved for later
(Cancel/clear key) in the operation panel. use. For details, refer to “Saving patterns”
The pattern that was selected last is removed. (page 114).

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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear

e key).
Repeat sewing patterns
X The initial stitch screen appears again, and
To repeatedly sew the combined pattern, follow the the machine is set to repeatedly sew the
procedure described below. selected pattern.

Select the pattern.

a 1 2
• For details, refer to “Combining patterns”
(page 111).

Press (Settings key) in the operation

b panel.

X The settings screen appears.

c
Press or (Stitch length keys) until
is displayed.

a Single
b Repeated

Note
z If repeated sewing is set, the pattern is
repeatedly sewn until the sewing machine is
X The screen for specifying repeat sewing stopped.
appears. z If the sewing machine is turned off, the
repeated/single sewing setting returns to its
default setting.

Checking the selected pattern

Press or (Stitch width keys) to select
d Up to 35 patterns can be combined. If all of the
(repeat sewing).
selected patterns cannot be displayed in the LCD at
To return to (single sewing), press or the same time, the pattern can be checked according
(Stitch width keys). to the following procedure.

a panel.
Press (Settings key) in the operation

X The settings screen appears.

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Press or (Stitch length keys) until

b
is displayed. Mirror imaging the pattern

The pattern can be mirror imaged along a vertical

axis.

Select a stitch.
a

b
Press (Settings key) in the operation
panel.
X The screen for checking the pattern appears. X The settings screen appears.

Press or (Stitch width keys) to scroll

3
c through the pattern and check it.
Press or (Stitch length keys) until is
c
displayed.

X The screen for mirror imaging the pattern

appears.

• Press to scroll through the pattern to the left. If

the key is pressed while the leftmost (first) pattern is
displayed, a beep sounds.
• Press to scroll through the pattern to the right.
If the key is pressed while only the rightmost (last)
Press or (Stitch width keys) to select
pattern is displayed, a beep sounds. d
.

d key).
Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear To return to , press or (Stitch
width keys).
X The initial stitch screen appears again.

X The pattern is mirror imaged.

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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Press (OK key) or (Cancel/clear

e key).
Saving patterns
X The initial stitch screen appears again.
Combined patterns can be saved for later use. Since
saved patterns are not lost after the sewing machine is
1 2 turned off, they can be retrieved at any time. This is
convenient for patterns, such as names, that will be
used often. Utility stitches can also be saved. Up to
three patterns can be saved.

Create the combined pattern that you wish to

a Normal a save. Otherwise, display the pattern to be
b Mirror-imaged
saved.
• For details, refer to “Combining patterns”
Memo (page 111).
z Some of the utility stitches, most of the
decorative stitches, and all of the character
stitches can be mirror imaged.
z Mirror imaged patterns can also be
combined with other patterns.
Press (Memory key) in the operation
b panel.

X The machine enters pattern memory mode,

and appears in the upper-left corner of
the screen.

Press the numeric key (1 to 3) for the pocket

c where the pattern is to be saved.

X The saved contents of the pocket for the

selected number are displayed.
• If nothing has been saved, nothing appears in
the bottom of the screen.

• If the pocket contains a pattern, the pattern is

displayed. To leave this pattern in the pocket,
select a different pocket.

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Check the contents, and then press (OK

d key).
The contents saved in the selected pocket are Memo
overwritten. z Each time (Preset utility stitch/saved
X An screen appears, indicating that the pattern key) is pressed, the machine switches
pattern is being saved in the pocket. between the preset utility stitch mode and
X After the pattern is saved, a beep is sounded, the saved pattern mode. (For details on the
and the initial stitch screen appears again. preset utility stitch mode, refer to “Selecting
stitch types and patterns” (page 66).
Note

m
z Do not turn off the sewing machine while a
pattern is being saved, otherwise the pattern Press the numeric key (1 to 3) for the pocket
data may be lost. b where the pattern is saved.

.co
X The saved contents of the pocket for the
selected number are retrieved.
Memo 3
z The pattern saved in the pocket can be
erased by performing the save operation
with no pattern selected.
es
• If nothing was saved in the selected pocket, a
beep is sounded, and the screen displayed
before the numeric key was pressed appears
Retrieving a pattern again.
• To select a different pocket, use the numeric
uid

Press (Preset utility stitch/saved pattern

a
keys to type in the number of a different
pocket.
key) in the operation panel.
X After appears in the center of the
screen, the machine enters retrieve pattern
Memo
z After a decorative stitch or character stitch
mode, and appears in the lower-left
pattern is retrieved, press (Character/
-g

corner of the screen.

utility decorative stitch key) to combine
additional patterns with it or edit it.
all

Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 115

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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

Press (Settings key) in the operation

f
Realigning the pattern panel.

The pattern may not be sewn correctly, depending on X The settings screen appears.
the type of fabric being sewn or the sewing speed. If
this occurs, adjust the pattern while sewing on a
piece of scrap fabric that is the same as that used for
your project.

Turn on the sewing machine.

a Press or (Stitch length keys) until is
g
b
Select (No. 62 of , selected with displayed.
).

Press (Character/utility decorative stitch

key), and then use the numeric keys to type in
“62”.

X The pattern alignment stitch is selected.

Attach monogramming foot “N”.

c
X The screen for adjusting the pattern appears.

• For details, refer to “Replacing the presser

foot” (page 41).

Start sewing.
d

X The pattern for making the adjustment is

sewn.
X The sewing machine stops after it has
finished sewing the pattern.

Check the sewn pattern.

e If the part of the pattern indicated in the
illustration is sewn uniformly, the pattern is
correctly aligned.

If the pattern is not sewn correctly, follow the

steps below to adjust the sewing.

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Press or (Stitch width keys).

h

X Make the necessary adjustments according

to how the pattern is sewn.

Press (Stitch width key) to increase the

3
adjustment setting.

Press (Stitch width key) to decrease the

adjustment setting.

Start sewing again, and then check the pattern.

i Continue adjusting the pattern until it is sewn
correctly.

When the pattern is sewn correctly, press

j
(OK key) or (Cancel/clear key).

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

Sewing the Various Built-In Decorative Patterns 117

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UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————

118
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4 APPENDIX
The various maintenance and troubleshooting procedures are described in this chapter.

Stitch Settings........................................................................................................120
Utility stitches ..................................................................................................120
Other stitches...................................................................................................124
Care and Maintenance ..........................................................................................126
Cleaning the machine surface.............................................................................126
Cleaning the race .............................................................................................126
Troubleshooting ....................................................................................................128
Error messages .................................................................................................132
Nothing appears in the LCD.............................................................................134
Operation beep ................................................................................................134
Cancelling the operation beep............................................................................134
Index .....................................................................................................................136
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APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————

Stitch Settings
Applications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin needle can be used are listed for utility
stitches in the following table.

Utility stitches

Walking Foot
Stitch Width Stitch Length

m
Twin Needle
Presser Foot
Pattern

[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Reverse/

Stitch Name Application Reinforcement
Stitching
Auto Manual Auto Manual

.co
01
Basic stitching, sewing 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–5.0 Yes
Left

J (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J)

Reverse No
gathers or pintucks, etc.
Straight
stitch 02 Attaching zippers, basic
Center

3.5 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–5.0 Yes

J/I stitching, sewing gathers Reverse No
(1/8) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J)
or pintucks, etc.
Attaching sleeves,
Triple 03
sewing inseams, sewing 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.5–4.0 Yes Reinforcement No
stretch J
es
stretch fabrics and (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J)
stitch
decorative stitching
04
Stretch Sewing stretch fabrics 1.0 1.0–3.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes
J (1/16) (1/16–1/8) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J) Reinforcement No
stitch and decorative stitching

05
Center

Zigzag Overcasting and 3.5 0.0–7.0 1.4 0.0–4.0 Yes

J Reverse No
uid

stitch attaching appliqués (1/8) (0–1/4) (1/16) (0–3/16) (J)

Overcasting on medium
06
2-point weight or stretch fabrics, 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes
J
zigzag stitch attaching elastic, (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J) Reinforcement Yes
darning, etc.
Overcasting on medium
07
3-point weight or stretch fabrics, 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes Reinforcement No
J
zigzag stitch attaching elastic, (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J)
darning, etc.
-g

08
Overcasting on thin or 3.5 2.5–5.0 2.0 1.0–4.0
G
medium weight fabrics (1/8) (3/32–3/16) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement No

09
Overcasting on thick 5.0 2.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0
G
(3/16) (3/32–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement No
all

fabrics

10 Preventing fraying in
Overcasting 5.0 3.5–5.0 2.5 1.0–4.0
G thick fabrics and fabrics
stitch (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement No
that fray easily
11
Overcasting on stretch 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.5–4.0 Yes
J
fabrics (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/32–3/16) (J) Reinforcement No

12
Overcasting on thick or 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.5–4.0 Yes
J (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/32–3/16) (J) Reinforcement No
stretch fabrics

13 Overcasting on stretch
Overcasting 4.0 0.0–7.0 4.0 1.0–4.0 Yes
J fabrics and decorative
stitch (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/16) (1/16–3/16) (J) Reinforcement No
stitching
14
Blind hem stitching on 00 2.0 1.0–3.5
R – 3← →3 No Reinforcement No
medium weight fabrics (0) (1/16) (1/16–1/8)
Blind hem
stitch 15
Blind hem stitching on 00 2.0 1.0–3.5
R – 3← →3 No Reinforcement No
stretch fabrics (0) (1/16) (1/16–1/8)

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Walking Foot
Stitch Width Stitch Length

Twin Needle
Pattern

Presser Foot
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Reverse/
Stitch Name Application Reinforcement
Stitching
Auto Manual Auto Manual

16
Appliqué 3.5 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.6–4.0 Yes
J Appliqué stitching
stitch (1/8) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J) Reinforcement No

17
Shell tuck 4.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–4.0 Yes
J Shell tuck stitching
stitch (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) (J) Reinforcement No

Piecing straight stitching

18 (with a seam allowance
J of 6.5 mm(1/4 inch) from 5.5 0.0–7.0 2.0 0.2–5.0 No Reinforcement No
(7/32) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)
the right edge of the
Piecing presser foot)
straight
stitch Piecing straight stitching
19 (with a seam allowance
J 1.5 0.0–7.0 2.0 0.2–5.0
of 6.5 mm(1/4 inch) from
(1/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement Yes
the left edge of the
presser foot)
Straight
stitch that 20
Straight stitch quilting 0.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0
looks J (0) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement No
that looks hand-sewn
hand-sewn
(for quilting)
Zigzag
stitch
(for quilting)
21
J
Appliqué quilting, free-
motion quilting, satin
stitching
3.5
(1/8)
0.0–7.0
(0–1/4)
1.4
(1/16)
0.0–4.0
(0–3/16)
No Reinforcement Yes 4
22
Attaching appliqués and 1.5 0.5–3.5 1.8 1.0–4.0
J
Appliqué binding (1/16) (1/32–1/8) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement No
stitch
(for quilting) 23
Attaching appliqués and 1.5 0.5–3.5 1.8 1.0–4.0
J No Reinforcement No
binding (1/16) (1/32–1/8) (1/16) (1/16–3/16)

Quilting
24
stitch Quilting background 7.0 1.0–-7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0
J (1/4) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement No
(for stitching (stippling)
stippling)
25
Satin scallop 5.0 2.5–7.0 0.5 0.1–1.0 Yes Reinforcement No
N Scallop stitching
stitch (3/16) (3/32–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) (J)

26
Patchwork stitching and 4.0 0.0–7.0 1.2 0.2–4.0 Yes Reinforcement No
J
decorative stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J)

Patchwork stitching,
27 decorative stitching and
Joining 5.0 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes
J sewing overcasting on
stitch (3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J) Reinforcement No
both pieces of fabric,
such as with tricot
28
Patchwork stitching and 5.0 0.0–7.0 1.2 0.2–4.0 Yes
J (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J) Reinforcement No
decorative stitching

29
Fagoting and decorative 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes
J
stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J) Reinforcement No
Fagoting
stitch 30
Fagoting and decorative 5.0 2.5–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes
J
stitching (3/16) (3/32–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J) Reinforcement No

Elastic- 31
Attaching elastic to 4.0 0.0–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes
attaching J
(3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J) Reinforcement No
stretch fabrics
stitch
32
Ladder 4.0 0.0–7.0 3.0 2.0–4.0
J Decorative stitching
stitch (3/16) (0–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement No

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APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————

Walking Foot
Stitch Width Stitch Length

Twin Needle
Pattern

Presser Foot
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Reverse/
Stitch Name Application Reinforcement
Stitching
Auto Manual Auto Manual

33
Rick-rack 4.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 1.0–4.0 Yes
J Decorative stitching (3/16) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16) (J) Reinforcement No
stitch

34
Decorative 5.5 0.0–7.0 1.6 1.0–4.0 Yes
J Decorative stitching (7/32) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) (J) Reinforcement No
stitch

35
Serpentine Decorative stitching and 5.0 1.5–7.0 1.0 0.2–4.0 Yes
N (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) (J) Reinforcement No
stitch elastic-attaching

36 Lace sewing, decorative

N hemming, heirloom 3.5 1.5–7.0 2.5 1.6–4.0 No Reinforcement No
(1/8) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
stitching, etc.
37
Decorative hemming, 6.0 1.5–7.0 3.0 1.5–4.0
N (15/64) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement No
heirloom stitching, etc.

Decorative hemming on
38
thin, medium weight and 5.0 1.5–7.0 3.5 1.5–4.0
N
Hem- plain weave fabrics, (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/8) (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement No
stitching heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on
39
thin, medium weight and 5.0 1.5–7.0 4.0 1.5–4.0
N
plain weave fabrics, (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/16) 1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement No
heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on
40
thin, medium weight and 5.0 1.5–7.0 2.5 1.5–4.0
N No Reinforcement No
plain weave fabrics, (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (3/32) (1/16–3/16)
heirloom stitching, etc.
Decorative hemming on
41
Hem- thin, medium weight and 5.0 1.5–7.0 2.0 1.5–4.0
N
stitching plain weave fabrics, (3/16) (1/16–1/4) (1/16) (1/16–3/16) No Reinforcement No
heirloom stitching, etc.
42 Horizontal buttonholes
5.0 3.0–5.0 0.5 0.2–1.0 Automatic
A on thin and medium No No
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement
weight fabrics
43 Horizontal buttonholes
A on areas that are subject 5.0 3.0–5.0 0.5 0.2–1.0 No Automatic No
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement
to strain
44
Horizontal buttonholes 5.0 3.0–5.0 0.5 0.2–1.0 Automatic
A No No
on thick fabrics (3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement

45 Secured buttonholes for

5.0 3.0–5.0 0.5 0.2–1.0 Automatic
A fabrics that have No No
(3/16) (1/8–3/16) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement
backings
46
Buttonholes for stretch or 6.0 3.0–6.0 1.0 0.5–2.0 Automatic
A No No
knit fabrics (15/54) (1/8– 15/64) (1/16) (1/32–1/16) reinforcement
Buttonhole
stitch 47
Buttonholes for stretch 6.0 3.0–6.0 1.5 1.0–3.0 Automatic
A No No
fabrics (15/54) (1/8– 15/64) (1/16) (1/16–1/8) reinforcement

48
A Bound buttonholes 5.0 0.0–6.0 2.0 0.2–4.0 No Automatic No
(3/16) (0–15/64) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) reinforcement

49
Keyhole buttonholes for 7.0 3.0–7.0 0.5 0.3–1.0 Automatic
A No No
thick or furry fabrics (1/4) (1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement

50 Keyhole buttonholes for

A medium weight and 7.0 3.0–7.0 0.5 0.3–1.0 No Automatic No
(1/4) (1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement
thick fabrics
51
Horizontal buttonholes 7.0 3.0–7.0 0.5 0.3–1.0 Automatic
A No No
for thick or furry fabrics (1/4) (1/8–1/4) (1/32) (1/64–1/16) reinforcement

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Walking Foot
Stitch Width Stitch Length

Twin Needle
Pattern

Presser Foot
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Reverse/
Stitch Name Application Reinforcement
Stitching
Auto Manual Auto Manual

52 Reinforcing openings
Bar tack 2.0 1.0–3.0 0.4 0.3–1.0 Automatic
A and areas where the (1/16) (1/16–1/8) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) No reinforcement No
stitch
seam easily comes loose
Button- 53
3.5 2.5–4.5 Automatic
sewing M Button sewing (1/8) (3/32–3/16) – – No reinforcement No
stitch
54 7.0, 6.0, 5.0 7.0, 6.0, 5.0
Sewing eyelets, for 7.0 7.0 Automatic
Eyelet stitch N (1/4)
(1/4, 15/64, (1/4, 15/64, No
reinforcement No
example, on belts 3/16) (1/4) 3/16)

55
N For decoration, etc. 7.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–4.0 No Reinforcement No
(1/4) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16)

56
7.0 0.0–7.0 2.0 0.2–4.0
N For decoration, etc. (1/4) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No

57
7.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–4.0
N For decoration, etc.
(1/4) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No

58
N For decoration, etc. 7.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–4.0
(3/32) (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No
(1/4) (0–1/4)
4
59
7.0 0.0–7.0 2.0 0.2–4.0
N For decoration, etc.
(1/4) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No

60
7.0 0.0–7.0 2.0 0.2–4.0
N For decoration, etc.
(1/4) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No

61
Decorative 7.0 0.0–7.0 1.6 0.2–4.0
N For decoration, etc.
stitches (1/4) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No

62
7.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–4.0
N For decoration, etc.
(1/4) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No

63
7.0 0.0–7.0 2.0 0.2–4.0
N For decoration, etc. (1/4) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No

64
N For decoration, etc. 5.0 0.0–7.0 2.0 0.2–4.0
(3/16) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No

65
N For decoration, etc. 7.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–4.0
(1/4) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No

66
N For decoration, etc. 7.0 0.0–7.0 1.6 0.2–4.0 No Reinforcement No
(1/4) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16)

67
7.0 0.0–7.0 1.4 0.2–4.0
N For decoration, etc. (1/4) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No

68
N For decoration, etc. 7.0 2.5–7.0 0.4 0.1–1.0 Yes
(1/4) (3/32–1/4) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) (J) Reinforcement No

69
Satin 7.0 2.5–7.0 0.4 0.1–1.0 Yes Reinforcement No
N For decoration, etc.
stitches (1/4) (3/32–1/4) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) (J)

70
N For decoration, etc. 7.0 2.5–7.0 0.4 0.1–1.0 Yes Reinforcement No
(1/4) (3/32–1/4) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) (J)

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APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————

Walking Foot
Stitch Width Stitch Length

Twin Needle
Pattern

Presser Foot
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)] Reverse/
Stitch Name Application Reinforcement
Stitching
Auto Manual Auto Manual

71
7.0 2.5–7.0 0.4 0.1–1.0 Yes
N For decoration, etc. (1/4) (3/32–1/4) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) (J) Reinforcement No

72
7.0 2.5–7.0 0.4 0.1–1.0 Yes
N For decoration, etc. (1/4) (3/32–1/4) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) (J) Reinforcement No

73
Satin 7.0 2.5–7.0 0.4 0.1–1.0 Yes
N For decoration, etc. (1/4) (3/32–1/4) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) (J) Reinforcement No
stitches

74
N For decoration, etc. 7.0 2.5–7.0 0.4 0.1–1.0 Yes Reinforcement No
(1/4) (3/32–1/4) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) (J)

75
7.0 2.5–7.0 0.4 0.1–1.0 Yes
N For decoration, etc. (1/4) (3/32–1/4) (1/64) (1/64–1/16) (J) Reinforcement No

76
7.0 0.0–7.0 1.6 0.2–4.0
N For decoration, etc.
(1/4) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No

77
N For decoration, etc. 6.0 0.0–7.0 1.4 0.2–4.0
(15/64) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No

78
Cross- 6.0 0.0–7.0 2.5 0.2–4.0
N For decoration, etc.
stitches (15/64) (0–1/4) (3/32) (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No

79
6.0 0.0–7.0 1.4 0.2–4.0
N For decoration, etc.
(15/64) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No

80
N For decoration, etc. 6.0 0.0–7.0 1.4 0.2–4.0
(15/64) (0–1/4) (1/16) (1/64–3/16) No Reinforcement No

Other stitches
Left/Right Flipping
Adjustable Pattern

Pattern
Twin Needle
Presser Foot

Length/width

Stitch Type

01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30

Character stitches N No No Yes

31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50

51 52 53 54 55

Memo
z To select Character stitch mode, press (Character/utility decorative stitch key) once.

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Left/Right Flipping
Adjustable Pattern
Pattern

Twin Needle
Presser Foot

Length/width
Stitch Type

01 02 03 04 05 06 07 11

12 13 16 17 18* 20 21 22
Yes
J(*2) (*Not possible) Yes
(J)

m
23 24 25 26* 27 28

08 09 10

.co
G(*2) No No

14 15

R(*2) No No
Utility decorative Yes
stitches 19* 29* 30 31 32 33 34 35

N No Yes
(*Not impossible)
es
36 37 38 39 40 41
4
N No Yes
42 43 44 45 46 47 48 62(*1)
uid

49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56
Yes Yes
N (J)

57 58 59 60 61

N No Yes
-g

( 1)
* Pattern for making adjustment
( 2)
* Use monogramming foot “N” when combined with other pattern
all

Memo
z To select utility decorative stitch mode, press (Character/utility decorative stitch key) twice.

Stitch Settings 125

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APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————

Care and Maintenance

Simple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below.
Loosen the presser foot holder screw and
d remove the presser foot holder, and then
Cleaning the machine surface
loosen the needle clamp screw and remove the
If the surface of the machine is dirty, lightly soak a needle.
cloth in neutral detergent, squeeze it out firmly, and
then wipe the surface of the machine. After cleaning
it once with a wet cloth, wipe it again with a dry
cloth.

CAUTION
● Unplug the power cord before cleaning
the machine, otherwise injuries or an Grasp both sides of the needle plate cover, and
electric shock may occur. e then slide it toward you.

Cleaning the race

Sewing performance will suffer if dust collects in the

bobbin case; therefore, it should be cleaned
periodically. a
a Needle plate cover
Turn off the sewing machine.
a X The needle plate cover is removed.

f Grasp the bobbin case, and then pull it out.

Remove the bobbin case.

Unplug the power cord from the power supply

b jack on the right side of the sewing machine.

CAUTION
a
● Unplug the power cord before cleaning a Bobbin case
the machine, otherwise injuries or an
Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum cleaner to
electric shock may occur. g remove any lint and dust from the race and its
surrounding area.
Remove the flat bed attachment.
c

a
b
a Cleaning brush
b Race
• Do not apply oil to the bobbin case.
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Insert the bobbin case so that the projection

h on the bobbin case aligns with the spring.
Removing the needle plate

When the thread is tangled and cannot be removed

a by cleaning the race, remove the needle plate.

Follow steps a through f on page 126.

a

b screws with the included screwdriver.

Remove the needle plate by removing the

a
b Remove the tangled thread from the needle
c plate.

Return the needle plate to its original position,

d and then tighten the screws with the included
4
screwdriver.
a Projection
b Spring

Insert the tabs on the needle plate cover into

i the needle plate, and then slide the cover back
on.

Note
a
z Align the two screw holes on the needle
a Needle plate cover plate with the two holes on the machine.

j position.
Install the flat bed attachment in its original
Follow steps g through j (page 126-127).
e

CAUTION
● Never use a bobbin case that is scratched,
otherwise the upper thread may become
tangled, the needle may break or sewing
performance may suffer. For a new
bobbin case (part code: XC3153-151),
contact your nearest authorized service
center.
● Be sure that the bobbin case is correctly
installed, otherwise the needle may break.

Care and Maintenance 127

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APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————

Troubleshooting
If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service.
If the problem persists, contact your dealer or the nearest authorized service center.

Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference

The machine is not turned on. Turn on the machine. page 17

The start/stop button was not

Press the start/stop button. page 52
pressed.
The sewing The presser foot lever is raised. Lower the presser foot lever. –
machine does not
operate. Do not use the start/stop button
The start/stop button was pressed, when the foot controller is
even though the foot controller is connected. To use the start/stop page 52
connected. button, disconnect the foot
controller.

The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle.

Use the screwdriver to firmly

The needle clamp screw is loose. page 39
tighten the screw.

The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle.

Select a thread and needle that

The combination of fabric, thread
are appropriate for the type of page 38
and needle is not correct.
fabric being sewn.

The presser foot that is used is not Attach the presser foot that is
appropriate for the type of stitch that appropriate for the type of stitch page 120
you wish to sew. that you wish to sew.

The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 57

The fabric is pulled too much. Lightly guide the fabric. –

The needle breaks.
The spool is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the spool. page 28

The area around the hole in the Replace the needle plate. Contact
needle plate is scratched, or has a your dealer or the nearest –
burr on it. authorized service center.

The area around the hole in the Replace the presser foot. Contact
presser foot is scratched, or has a your dealer or the nearest –
burr on it. authorized service center.

Replace the bobbin case. Contact

The bobbin case is scratched, or has
your dealer or the nearest –
a burr on it.
authorized service center.

Incorrect bobbins will not work

A bobbin designed specifically for properly. Only use a bobbin
page 22
this machine is not used. designed specifically for this
machine.

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Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference

The upper thread was not threaded

correctly (for example, the spool is
not installed correctly, the spool cap
Correct the upper threading. page 28
is too big for the spool being used, or
the thread has come out of the
needle bar thread guide).

There are knots or tangles in the

Remove any knots or tangles. –
thread.

The selected needle is not

Select a needle that is appropriate
appropriate for the thread being page 38
for the type of thread being used.
used.

The upper thread tension is too tight. Loosen the upper thread tension. page 57

Remove the tangle thread. If the

The thread is tangled, for example, in
thread is tangled in the bobbin page 126
the bobbin case.
case, clean the race.
The upper thread
breaks. The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle.
page 39
The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle.

The area around the hole in the Replace the needle plate. Contact 4
needle plate is scratched, or has a your dealer or the nearest –
burr on it. authorized service center.

The area around the hole in the Replace the presser foot. Contact
presser foot is scratched, or has a your dealer or the nearest –
burr on it. authorized service center.

Replace the bobbin case. Contact

The bobbin case is scratched, or has
your dealer or the nearest –
a burr on it.
authorized service center.

Incorrect bobbins will not work

A bobbin designed specifically for properly. Only use a bobbin
page 22
this machine is not used. designed specifically for this
machine.

The bobbin thread is incorrectly Correctly install the bobbin

page 26
installed. thread.

The bobbin is scratched or does not

Replace the bobbin. –
rotate smoothly, or has a burr on it.
The lower thread is Remove the tangled thread and
tangled or breaks. The thread is tangled. page 126
clean the race.

Incorrect bobbins will not work

A bobbin designed specifically for properly. Only use a bobbin
page 22
this machine is not used. designed specifically for this
machine.

Troubleshooting 129
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APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————

Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference

The upper thread was not threaded

Correct the upper threading. page 28
correctly.

The bobbin thread is incorrectly Correctly install the bobbin

page 26
installed. thread.

Select a thread and needle that

The combination of fabric, thread
are appropriate for the type of page 38
and needle is not correct.
fabric being sewn.
The thread tension

m
is incorrect. The presser foot holder is incorrectly Correctly install the presser foot
page 43
installed. holder.

Adjust the tension of the upper

The thread tension is incorrect. page 57
thread.

.co
Incorrect bobbins will not work
A bobbin designed specifically for properly. Only use a bobbin
page 22
this machine is not used. designed specifically for this
machine.

The upper thread was not threaded Correctly thread the upper thread
page 26,
correctly, or the bobbin is incorrectly and correctly install the bobbin
page 28
es
installed. thread.

The spool is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the spool. page 28

Select a thread and needle that

The combination of fabric, thread
are appropriate for the type of page 38
and needle is not correct.
uid

The fabric is fabric being sewn.

wrinkled.
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 39

Shorten the stitch length or sew

If thin fabrics are being sewn, the
with stabilizer material under the page 59
stitch is too long.
fabric.
-g

Adjust the tension of the upper

The thread tension is incorrect. page 57
thread.

The upper thread was not threaded

Correct the upper threading. page 28
correctly.
all

Select a thread and needle that

The combination of fabric, thread
are appropriate for the type of page 38
and needle is not correct.
Stitches are fabric being sewn.
skipped.
The needle is bent or blunt. Replace the needle. page 39

The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 39

Dust has accumulated under the Remove the needle plate cover
page 126
needle plate or in the bobbin case. and clean the race.

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Symptom Probable Cause Remedy Reference

Dust has accumulated in the feed

Clean the race. page 126
dogs or in the bobbin case.

The upper thread was not threaded

Correct the upper threading. page 28
correctly.
A high-pitched Replace the bobbin case. Contact
noise is made while The bobbin case is scratched, or has
your dealer or the nearest –
sewing. a burr on it.
authorized service center.

Incorrect bobbins will not work

A bobbin designed specifically for properly. Only use a bobbin
page 22
this machine is not used. designed specifically for this
machine.

The needle has not been raised to the

Press the needle position button. page 31
The needle threader correct position.
cannot be used.
The needle is incorrectly installed. Correctly install the needle. page 39

The presser foot that is used is not Attach the presser foot that is
appropriate for the type of stitch that appropriate for the type of stitch page 120
you wish to sew. that you wish to sew.

The stitch is not

The thread tension is incorrect.
Adjust the tension of the upper
page 57
4
sewn correctly. thread.

Remove the tangle thread. If the

The thread is tangled, for example, in
thread is tangled in the bobbin page 126
the bobbin case.
case, clean the race.

Slide the drop feed lever to the

The feed dogs are lowered. right. (as seen from the rear of the page 97
machine)

The stitch is too short. Lengthen the stitch length. page 59

The fabric does not
The presser foot that is used is not Attach the presser foot that is
feed.
appropriate for the type of stitch that appropriate for the type of stitch page 120
you wish to sew. that you wish to sew.

Remove the tangle thread. If the

The thread is tangled, for example, in
thread is tangled in the bobbin page 126
the bobbin case.
case, clean the race.

The sewing lamp Contact your dealer or the nearest

The sewing lamp is damaged. –
does not come on. authorized service center.

Nothing appears in The brightness of the LCD is either

Adjust the brightness of the LCD. page 134
the LCD. too light or too dark.

Troubleshooting 131
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APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————

Error messages
If (start/stop button) is pressed before the sewing machine is correctly set up or if an operation is performed
incorrectly, an icon indicating the error appears in the LCD. Follow the instructions that appear. The icon will
disappear if (OK key) or (Cancel/clear key) is pressed while the icon is displayed.

Error
Error Message Probable Cause
Code No.

E1 The motor locked up because the thread is tangled.

The start/stop button or reverse/reinforcement stitch button was pressed

E2 while the presser foot was raised.

The reverse/reinforcement stitch button or needle position button was

E3 pressed, or the foot controller was operated while the bobbin winder
shaft is moved to the right.

The start/stop button was pressed while the foot controller was
E4 connected.

A stitch other than the buttonhole or bar tack stitch was selected and
E5 the start/stop button was pressed while the buttonhole lever is lowered.

The buttonhole or bar tack stitch was selected and the start/stop button
E6 was pressed while the buttonhole lever is raised.

The start/stop button or reverse/reinforcement stitch button was pressed

E7 after a stitch has been deleted.

E8 The bobbin winder is winding the bobbin.

You tried to combine more than 35 character stitches and utility

E9 decorative stitches.

The start/stop button was pressed without connecting the foot controller
E10 while the setting for adjusting the stitch width using the sewing speed
controller is set to [ON].

The twin needle setting is selected while a pattern that cannot be sewn
E11 with the twin needle is selected.

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Error
Error Message Probable Cause
Code No.

The stitch mode was changed.

E12 This icon appears when the current pattern is to be deleted.

E13 The selected setting cannot be changed with the selected pattern.

E14 A pattern is being saved. Otherwise, the stitch settings are being saved.

Troubleshooting 133
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APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————

Nothing appears in the LCD Cancelling the operation beep

If nothing appears in the LCD when the sewing When the sewing machine is purchased, it is set to
machine is turned on, the brightness of the LCD is beep each time an operation panel key is pressed.
either too light or too dark. If this is the case, perform This setting can be changed so that the machine does
the following operation. not beep.

a a
Turn off the sewing machine. Turn on the sewing machine.

X The LCD comes on.

b
While pressing (Cancel/clear key) in the
operation panel, turn on the sewing machine. Press (Settings key) in the operation
b
panel.
c Adjust the brightness of the LCD so that the
Press or (Stitch width keys).

screens can be seen.

X The settings screen appears.

Press or (Stitch length keys) until is

c
displayed.

Turn off the sewing machine, then turn it on

d again.

Operation beep

Each time a key is pressed or an incorrect operation is

performed, a beep is sounded. X The screen for changing the beep setting
appears.
■ For a correct operation
One beep is sounded.

■ If an incorrect operation is performed

Two or four beeps are sounded.

■ If the machine locks up, for example, because

the thread is tangled
The sewing machine continues to beep for four
seconds. The machine automatically stops.
Be sure to check for the cause of the error, and
correct it before continuing to sew.

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Press or (Stitch width keys) to select

d
.
To return to , press or (Stitch width
keys).

m
e
beep.

Press (Cancel/clear key) or .co

X The machine is now set so that it will not

(OK key).

X The initial stitch screen appears again.

es
4
uid
-g
all

Troubleshooting 135
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APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————

Index

Numerics curves ...........................................................................62

cylindrical pieces ..........................................................46
1/4 inch quilting foot ....................................................10
1/4 inch quilting foot with guide ...................................10
2-point zigzag stitch ......................................................72
D
3-point zigzag stitch ......................................................72 decorative satin stitches ..................................... 110, 124
decorative stitches ............................................. 110, 124
A decorative stitching .....................................................103
direct selection .............................................................66
accessories ......................................................................9 disc-shaped screwdriver ..................................................9
accessory bag .................................................................9
adjustable zipper/piping foot .........................................10
air vent .........................................................................11
E
appliqué .......................................................................94 elastic tape ....................................................................91
automatic reinforcement stitching .................................60 electrical outlet .............................................................17
automatic reverse stitching ............................................60 error messages ............................................................132
automatic reverse/reinforcement stitch key ...................13 even seam allowance ....................................................64
extra spool pin ......................................................... 9, 34
B eyelet ..........................................................................102
eyelet punch ................................................... 9, 82, 102
bar tack .......................................................................100
baseline ........................................................................76
basic stitching ...............................................................75
F
blind hem stitch ............................................................77 fagoting .......................................................................104
blind stitch foot ...............................................................9 features ...........................................................................8
bobbin ..................................................................... 9, 26 feed dog position switch ........................................ 11, 98
bobbin case ................................................................126 feed dogs ............................................................... 12, 97
bobbin cover ......................................................... 12, 27 flatbed attachment ........................................................11
bobbin thread ...............................................................26 flipping .......................................................................113
pulling up ...............................................................36 foot controller .......................................................... 9, 52
bobbin winder ..............................................................11 foot controller jack ........................................................11
bobbin winder shaft spring ............................................23 free-arm sewing ............................................................46
bobbin-winding ....................................................... 8, 22 free-motion quilting ......................................................97
bobbin-winding thread guide and pretension disk .. 11, 24
brightness .....................................................................21
built-in stitches ...............................................................8
H
button fitting foot ..................................................... 9, 84 handwheel ............................................................. 11, 51
button sewing ........................................................ 79, 84 heirloom stitching .......................................................107
buttonhole foot ........................................................ 9, 83
buttonhole lever ............................................ 12, 81, 101
buttonhole stitching ......................................................79
I
included accessories .......................................................9
C
cancel/clear key ............................................................13
J
care ............................................................................126 joining ........................................................................107
changing machine settings ............................................19 joining stitch .................................................................93
changing sewing direction ............................................62
changing the settings .....................................................19
L
character stitches ........................................ 67, 110, 124
character/utility decorative stitch key ............................13 LCD ........................................................13, 18, 21, 134
checking patterns ........................................................112 brightness ...................................................... 21, 134
cleaning ......................................................................126 leather/vinyl fabrics .......................................................64
cleaning brush ....................................................... 9, 126 lower threading ........................................................ 8, 26
combining patterns .....................................................111
crazy quilt stitching .......................................................95
M
cross-stitch ..................................................................110
cross-stitches ...................................................... 110, 124 machine settings ...........................................................19

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main power switch ................................................ 11, 17 R

maintenance ...............................................................126
manual threading ..........................................................33 race ............................................................................126
memory key ..................................................................13 realigning ....................................................................116
mirror imaging ............................................................113 realigning patterns ......................................................116
monogramming foot .......................................................9 reinforcement stitching ................................. 54, 60, 100
repeat sewing patterns ................................................112
replacing the needle .............................................. 37, 39
N retrieving a pattern ......................................................115
needle ...........................................................................37 reverse stitching ............................................................54
needle bar thread guide ................................................12 reverse/reinforcement stitch button ...............................12
needle clamp screw ............................................... 12, 40
needle mode selection key ............................................13 S
needle plate ........................................................... 12, 64
needle plate cover ........................................................12 safety instructions ...........................................................1
needle position ...................................................... 58, 76 satin stitches ...................................................... 110, 124
needle position button ..................................................12 satin stitching ................................................................98
needle position key .......................................................13 saved patterns ........................................................ 66, 68
needle set .......................................................................9 saving patterns ............................................................114
needle stop position ......................................................60 scallop stitching ..........................................................105
needle threader lever ....................................................12 screwdriver .............................................................. 9, 40
needle threading ...........................................................31 seam ripper .............................................................. 9, 82
non stick foot ................................................................10 selecting stitching .........................................................67
number selection ..........................................................66 settings key ............................................................ 13, 19
numeric keys ................................................................13 sewing machine needles ...............................................37
sewing speed ................................................................52
sewing speed controller ......................................... 12, 98
O shell tuck stitch ...........................................................106
OK key .........................................................................13 side cutter .............................................................. 10, 73
open toe foot ................................................................10 sleeves ........................................................................100
openings .....................................................................100 smocking ....................................................................105
operation beep ............................................................134 spool cap .......................................................... 9, 23, 29
operation buttons ................................................... 11, 12 spool net .........................................................................9
operation manual ............................................................9 spool pin ......................................................... 11, 23, 29
operation panel ...................................................... 11, 13 start/stop button ..................................................... 12, 52
optional accessories ......................................................10 starting to sew ...............................................................52
overcasting foot ....................................................... 9, 71 stitch guide foot ............................................................10
overcasting stitches .......................................................71 stitch length ..................................................................59
stitch length keys ..........................................................13
stitch mode ...................................................................66
P stitch pattern plate ..........................................................9
patchwork stitching .......................................................95 stitch settings ..............................................................120
patterns .......................................................................110 stitch width ...................................................................58
piecing ..........................................................................95 controlling ..............................................................98
pocket corners ............................................................100 stitch width keys ...........................................................13
positioning fabric ..........................................................51 straight stitch ...............................................................120
power supply ................................................................16 stretch fabrics ......................................................... 63, 91
power supply jack .................................................. 11, 17
preset utility stitch .................................................. 66, 68 T
preset utility stitch/saved pattern key .............................13
presser foot ............................................................ 12, 41 thick fabrics ..................................................................62
presser foot holder ................................................. 12, 43 thin fabrics ....................................................................63
presser foot lever .................................................... 11, 12 thread cutter .................................................................11
thread guide ..................................................................11
thread guide cover ........................................................11
Q thread take-up lever ......................................................11
quick reference guide .....................................................9 thread tension ...............................................................57
quilting .........................................................................96 thread tension adjustment .............................................57
quilting foot ........................................................... 10, 97 thread tension dial ................................................. 11, 57
quilting guide ......................................................... 10, 96 trial sewing ...................................................................62
triple stretch stitch .......................................................100
troubleshooting ...........................................................128
twin needle ....................................................... 9, 33, 40

Index 137
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APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————

U
upper thread .................................................................28
upper thread tension .....................................................57
upper threading ....................................................... 8, 28
utility decorative stitches ............................. 67, 110, 125
utility stitch key .............................................................13
utility stitches ....................................................... 66, 120

W
walking foot .................................................... 10, 44, 96
wide table .............................................................. 10, 46
wing needle ................................................................107

Z
zigzag foot ............................................................... 9, 72
zipper foot ......................................................................9
zipper insertion .............................................................86

138
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