Alfred Guballa

Born in the United States, Alfred has been living in Japan since 2011. He is working as a high
school English teacher.
He entered a sento he happened upon while walking around Tokyo, and instantly fell in love with it.
He was completely captivated by the conversation of regulars, warm waters, high ceiling, and the
big mural of Mt. Fuji. Today, he not only visits various sento but also serves as a guide at events for
foreign nationals and tourists held by the Tokyo Sento Association. Here is a message from Alfred.
“During your time in Japan, you can have an excellent bathing experience without having to go to a
distant hot springs resort, just by going to your local sento! The sento is a part of Japanese culture
that most travelers tend to look over, but I definitely would like visitors to Japan to experience it!
There, you will experience the spacious tubs, folksy atmosphere, and most of all: the refreshing
feeling as all your worries and stress melt away in the waters! This is what sento is all about!”

Foreign nationals who love sento

Experience a sento during
your stay in Tokyo!
Born in France, Stephanie had her first experience of
a sento while attending a Japanese university under
a study-abroad program. At first, she was surprised
at the culture of entering a bath with strangers. But
Sento (public baths) are one of the symbols of Japanese culture. Today, they are a focus of keen with exposure to the kindness of the proprietor and
attention among visitors from other countries as an experience-oriented tourism destination. regulars in addition to the enjoyment of soaking in
There are presumably some people who would resist the idea of entering a bath in the nude the waters, she came to love sento. And now, she pro-
with people they don’t know. However, in Japan’s bathing culture, which has continued to exist vides information about sento on social media and
in Tokyo since around 1600, there is absolutely nothing shameful about soaking in a bath in the her website, out of her desire to convey their appeals
nude with complete strangers. to both Japanese and foreign nationals. Stepha-
In Japan, people have an expression that literally translates “socializing naked.” It has abso- nie publicizes particularly the artistic dimension of
lutely no sexual connotation; the term “naked” is used in the psychological sense. The mean- sento, with photos of items such as the traditional
ing is to narrow any emotional distance from another person by talking frankly and sincerely, Japanese sento architecture and huge wall paintings
regardless of differences of profession, rank, etc. of Mt. Fuji and several kind of art typically found in
There has recently been a steep rise in the number of people from other countries visiting dif- the bathing room. In 2015, she was appointed to be
ferent parts of Japan. These visitors are traveling to see things that could only be seen or felt in Japan’s first sento ambassador in recognition of her
Japan. It is really too bad that some of them leave without experiencing a sento. trips to sento throughout Japan and her activities to
And this is in spite of the fact that it takes only about one hour to do so. The bathrooms in hotels publicize their attractions. She published an art book
are liable to be cramped and small. We urge you to include a visit to a sento in your schedule,
also as a way to soothe bodies tired from walking around to see the sights.
on sento titled “Sento are Small Museums” in 2017
and a sento guidebook titled “A French Girl’s Guide Stephanie Crohin
If your eyes happen to meet those of a Japanese customer in the bathing room, don’t be afraid to Tokyo Sento” in 2018. Today, she is considered one
to say “konnichiwa, ii yu desu ne” (“hello, nice water, isn’t it”). Instead of just of the foreign nationals with the best
seeing the sights, please try and interact a bit with the locals. That is real knowledge of sento even in Japan. We
tourism, don’t you think? It will undoubtedly make your trip different from encourage you to discover the charms
any before. of Japan’s sento as viewed through the
eyes of Stephanie by taking a look at
If you want to learn more about the history of sento, click here. her Instagram account and website.

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 30 minutesby train 30 minutesby train
TAKARA-YU from
Ueno Station KAISEI-YU from
Haneda Airport
タカラ湯 Tattoo-friendly
改正湯 Tattoo-friendly Hot Spring

A Japanese-style garden said to be Relax at this black-water hot spring sento

the most beautiful one attached to a sento near Kamata Station
The appearance of this sento, which looks very much Within walking distance of the bustling Kamata Sta-
like a temple, reflects the traditional style that was tion, this sento features black hot spring water. Soak
adopted by many Tokyo sento in the past. The dis- in the “kuroyu” (literally black water) carbonated
tinguishing feature of this sento is a Japanese-style spring bath and two other types of black-water baths,
garden said to be the most beautiful one attached to and enjoy the sensation unique to rich black-water
a sento. Brightly colored carp swim gracefully in the spas! The bathing room has fish tanks in which many
pond. The bathing room is spacious and has many dif- little carp swim around. Children love to watch them.
ferent types of baths. Experience the electric bath and
hot water bath!
*The garden is on the side of the men’s bath. The men’s and women’s
baths are switched every Wednesday only. Women are advised to
come on Wednesdays!

Take a bus from Kita-senju Station (Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line), and get off
7 min. walk from Kamata station (JR Keihin-Tohoku Line)
at “Senju-sakuragicho” bus stop, then walk 5 minutes.
Address u 5-10-5 Nishi-kamata, Ota-ku
Address u 27-1 Senju-motomachi, Adachi-ku Tel u 03-3881-2660
Tel u 03-3731-7078 Opening Hours u 15:00-24:30 Closed u Friday
Opening Hours u 15:00-23:30 Closed u Friday

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 15 minutes 10 minutes by train
HIDAMARI NO IZUMI from
Yanesen Area
walk

INARI-YU from
Ikebukuro Station
HAGINO-YU 稲荷湯 Tattoo-friendly

ひだまりの泉萩の湯 Tattoos
are not allowed
Popular for its classic exterior
and new bathing room
Near Ueno and Yanaka, Built in 1930, this sento has a classic appearance.
it has an expansive full line of facilities Although the building is old, the bathing room has
This sento is also close to popular Tokyo districts such been renovated, so you can pleasantly soak in the
as Ueno and Yanaka, and is conveniently located near waters. There are baths with three different water
a train station. The bathing room is very large and temperatures, ranging from tepid to hot. Enter the
equipped with a full assortment of facilities, includ- bath with your preferred temperature. Wooden buck-
ing a jet bath, carbonated bath, open-air bath, electric ets, a Japanese-style garden with carp swimming in a
bath, and sauna. On the second floor is a restaurant pond, the warmth of wooden architecture – this sento
serving a wide range of menus from Japanese, Chi- is a showcase of Japanese esthetics!
nese, and other styles of cuisine. You can have food
and drinks right after bathing, without leaving the
building! photo : Imada photo service

3 min. walk from Uguisudani Station (JR Yamanote Line) 6 min. walk from Nishi-sugamo station (Toei Mita Line) /
Address u 2-13-13 Negishi, Taito-ku Tel u 03-3872-7669 6 min. walk from Itabashi station (JR Saikyo Line)
Opening Hours u 6:00-9:00, 11:00-25:00 (Reception ends 30 min. before the closing time) Address u 6-27-14 Takinogawa, Kita-ku
Closed u The 3rd Tuesday Tel u 03-3916-0523 Opening Hours u 14:50-25:15 Closed u Wednesday

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 10 minutes walk 30 minutesby train
KAIRYO-YU from
Shibuya Station MATSUNO-YU from
Takaosanguchi
Station
改良湯 Tattoo-friendly
松の湯 Tattoo-friendly

Close to Shibuya Station, Relieving fatigue on the way

simple yet stylish back from Mt. Takao
Within walking distance from Shibuya Station, this is This sento reopened in September 2019 after a reno-
a simple yet stylish sento. Imbued with a dream-like vation project. It attracts visitors with its chic design,
atmosphere, the bathing room has a tepid carbonated which exudes Japanese esthetics. Ease your fatigue
spring as well as a cold bath and sauna. The pictures and relax by soaking in the large bath while gazing
displayed on the upper part of the bathing room walls at the high ceilings lending the whole surrounding an
are original artworks depicting Shibuya, past and expansive air. Customers love the carbonated spring
present. The huge whale painted on the outer wall of and the open-air bath, which conveys a sense of the
the sento serves as a landmark. surrounding nature. If you climb Mt. Takao, drop by
this sento on the way home!

photo : Kentaro Imai Architectural office

17 min. walk from Nishi-hachioji station (JR Chuo Line) / 19 min. walk from Hachioji
12 min. walk from Shibuya or Ebisu station (JR Yamanote Line)
station (JR Chuo Line) / Take a bus from Hachioji station, get off at “Orimono kumiai mae”
Address u 2-19-9 Higashi, Shibuya-ku Tel u 03-3400-5782
bus stop, then walk 2min. Address u 20 Okadomachi, Hachioji-shi
Opening Hours u 15:00-24:30 (Mon. - Fri.), 13:00-23:00 (Sun. & P.H.) Closed u Saturday
Tel u 042-622-5356 Opening Hours u 14:00-23:30 Closed u Tuesday

8 9
HASUNUMA MIKOKU-YU
ONSEN 御谷湯 Tattoo-friendly Hot Spring

はすぬま温泉 Tattoo-friendly Hot Spring A black-water hot spring sento

near the Sumida Hokusai Museum
A hot spring sento with a classic mood Wrapped in a Japanese-style atmosphere, this hot
This hot spring sento features a stylish, classic atmo- spring sento has a retro flair. There are three black-wa-
sphere. Spend a soothing interlude in the bathing ter hot spring baths, each with a different tempera-
room, which is illuminated in calming pastel colors. ture (high/medium/low). Enjoy the distinctive feel of
The facilities include a hot spring bath, a tepid car- a black-water hot spring bath at the temperature of
bonated spring, a cold bath, and sauna. Enjoy the light your choice! On the fourth and fifth floors, which have
green waters of the hot spring, in a surrounding which mutually different facilities and decors, the men’s and
seems from a different age. women’s baths are switched every week. A 15-minute
walk from the Sumida Hokusai Museum.
photo : rou mochizuki
photo : Kentaro Imai Architectural office

30 minutesby train 15 minutes walk 16 min. walk from Kinshicho station (JR Sobu Line) /
take a bus from Kinshicho station, get off at “Ishihara
2 min. walk from Hasunuma station (Tokyu Ikegami from 3(san)-chome” bus stop, then walk 2 min.
from Line) Address u 6-16-11 Nishi-kamata, Ota-ku
the Sumida m
Haneda Airport
Address u 3-30-8 Ishihara, Sumida-ku Tel u 03-3623-
Tel u 03-3734-0081 Opening Hours u 15:00-25:00
Closed u Tuesday Hokusai Museu 1695 Opening Hours u 15:30-26:00 Closed u Monday
(open on P.H., and close the following day)

OSHIAGE ONSEN TOGOSHI GINZA

DAIKOKU-YU ONSEN
押上温泉 大黒湯 Tattoo-friendly Hot Spring 戸越銀座温泉 Tattoo-friendly Hot Spring

A hot spring sento A black-water hot spring sento located

with a view of TOKYO SKYTREE in the popular Togoshi Ginza Shopping Street
This hot spring sento is a 10-minute walk from TOKYO This hot spring sento is in the Togoshi Ginza, a popular
SKYTREE. Its full line of facilities includes a huge open- shopping street. Its black hot spring waters moistur-
air bath with a view of TOKYO SKYTREE, a carbonated ize the skin. The two bathing rooms have mutually dif-
spring, sauna, and a cold bath. It also has space with a ferent decors and facilities. The men’s and women’s
wooden deck and benches. You can relax here without baths are switched every week. Try out various tubs in
your clothes. Another popular attraction is the medic- a retro atmosphere! After bathing, it is recommended
inal bath, which changes daily. Open all night! to take a stroll on the Togoshi Ginza streets, which are
lined with little stores.
photo : Kentaro Imai Architectural office
6 min. walk from Oshiage station (Tokyo Metro

10 minutes walk
Hanzomon Line / Tobu Isezaki Line / Toei Asakusa
Line / Keisei Oshiage Line) Address u 3-12-14 Yoko-
from
kawa, Sumida-ku Tel u 03-3622-6698 Opening Hours 3 minutes walk
3 min. walk from Togoshi station (Toei Asakusa Line)
Address u 2-1-6 Togoshi, Shinagawa-ku
TOKYO SKYTREE
u 15:00-10:00 (next morning), Open from 14:00 on
from Tel u 03-3782-7400 Opening Hours u 15:00-25:00 (8:00-
Sat., 13:00 on Sun. Closed u Tuesday (open on P.H.,
and close the following day) the Togoshi 12:00, 15:00-25:00 on Sun. & P.H.) Closed u Friday
Ginza Shopping
Street
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MYOHO-YU MANNEN-YU
妙法湯 Tattoo-friendly 万年湯 Tattoo-friendly

Relax in waters near Ikebukuro A sento in Koreatown

and beautify your skin that’s popular with travelers
The bathing room has a bright, modern atmosphere This sento seems to have been hidden away in a back-
and is equipped with all sorts of facilities. Besides street in the Koreatown district. The interior is very
the “soft-water/carbonated/silky” baths with an out- stylish, with a unified Japanese-style design making
standing effect for beautifying the skin, there is also abundant use of wood. In addition to a tepid bath and
a sauna and a cold bath. Make sure to experience the hot bath, the bathing room also offers a cold bath.
powerful water jets and the electric bath! Many of the Once you are refreshed from bathing, pay a visit to the
customers are foreign nationals who like the friendly Golden Gai section of Shinjuku!
owner. The sento is within walking distance from Ike-
bukuro Station.

10 minutesby train 2 min. walk from Shiinamachi station (Seibu Ike- 10 minutes walk 5 Min. walk from Shin-okubo station (JR Yamanote
from bukuro Line) Address u 4-32-4 Nishi-ikebukuro, from Line) Address u 1-15-17 Okubo, Shinjuku-ku

Ikebukuro Station Toshima-ku Tel u 03-3957-8433

Opening Hours u 15:00-25:00 Closed u Monday
Kabukicho Tel u 03-3200-4734 Opening Hours u 15:00-24:00
Closed u Saturday

MINATO-YU AKEBONO-YU
湊湯 Tattoos are not allowed 曙湯 Tattoo-friendly

A stylish sento Take a dip while sightseeing in Asakusa

near the Tsukiji and Ginza districts. Add a special experience to your tour of the must-see
This stylish sento is within walking distance from the Asakusa district! Akebono-yu stands out with its clas-
Tsukiji and Ginza districts. Its full assortment of baths sic exterior. Decorated with a mural taking Asakusa
includes one with a powerful jet. The two bathing as its motif, the bathing room offers enjoyment of var-
rooms have mutually different decors and facilities. ious types of baths. Consider yourself lucky if you can
The men’s and women’s baths are switched every make a visit from late April to late May. The wisteria
week. Enjoy a relaxing soak in the bathing room, which gracing the front entrance may be in full bloom then.
is illuminated by a soft light. The entrance looks quite
like that of a restaurant, so be careful not to miss it!

photo : Imada photo service photo : Imada photo service

15 minutes walk 7 min. walk from Hatchobori station (Tokyo 5 minutes walk 15 min. walk from Asakusa station (Tokyo
from Metro Hibiya Line) Address u 1-6-2 Minato, from Metro Ginza Line) Address u 4-17-1 Asakusa,
the Tsukiji Market Chuo-ku Tel u 03-3551-0667 Opening Hours u
15:00-24:30 Closed u Saturday
the Sensoji Temple Taito-ku Tel u 03-3873-6750 Opening Hours u
15:00-25:00 Closed u The 1st & 3rd Friday

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 Do sento have a special etiquette? Wooden shoe key
First, take off your shoes and put them in the
【下足札】
shoe rack or cupboard. Do not enter the bath
in a swimming suit or your underwear. Before
getting into the bath, wash your body. Before
Noren In some cases, there is a wooden key
for the shoe cupboard. After putting
returning to the dressing room, wipe your 【のれん】 your shoes inside, remove the wooden
whole body off with a towel. There are other This is a curtain that is often hung at the entrance to key and make sure not to lose it.
rules as well. For details, see the poster in the business establishments in Japan. While you may
sento. feel some reluctance, resolutely step through the
noren and enter the building.
Can I enter a sento
if I have a tattoo? Can I take photos inside a sento?
It is generally permitted, but some sento refuse Sento are both public places and facilities for Noren 2
entry to people with tattoos. Although tattoos bathing. For these reasons, it is prohibited not 【のれん 2】
are widely perceived as fashionable decora- only to take photos but also to use a smart-
tions in other countries, please note that some phone after entering the building. The men’s bath (blue curtain) and
businesses in Japan prohibit entry by people women’s bath (red curtain) usually
who have tattoos due to its association with an- have mutually separate entrances.
ti-social organizations. Are there hot springs in Tokyo
too?
Do all sento charge
Peculiarities in a sento
There are famous hot springs in all parts of Ja-
pan. Tokyo has hot springs known as kuroyu,
a fee of JPY470? meaning “black water.” It is said that these wa-
The approximately 530 sento that are mem- ters can stand comparison with those in other
bers of the Tokyo Sento Association charge a hot spring areas. When you get into the tub, you
reasonable JPY470 for admission, but the fees
Attendant’s Booth/
may be surprised by the depth of the black col-
for facilities and services differ depending on or, which makes it impossible to see your body

Front Desk
the sento. (In some cases, there is an extra under the water. However, black-water baths
charge for use of the sauna.) Please appreciate
Put the hand towel
are very good for health and beauty, and defi-
the individuality of each bathhouse. It should nitely something to experience at least once. 【番台・フロント】
on your head
be added that facilities known as “super sento”
Sento have either a tradition-
are not members of the Tokyo Sento Associa-
al attendant’s booth located
tion and generally charge a very high admis- 【頭にタオル】
sion fee of JPY2,000 or more. Why is there a painting of Mt. between the men’s and the
women’s baths or a front As a point of etiquette, do not put
Fuji on the walls of sento? desk. Pay the fee of JPY470 your towel in the water of the bath.
Can I go to a sento without All Japanese know that sento in Tokyo have a here. (Some sento have a Leave it beside the bath or fold it
painting of Mt. Fuji on the wall. The practice re- and put it on your head.
bringing anything along? portedly began when an artist painted Mt. Fuji
ticket vending machine.)

You can buy towels and other items at the bath, as seen from his hometown on the wall to de-
generally for a price ranging from JPY100 to light the children using the sento. The picture
200. In almost all cases, body soap, shampoo,
and other items are available for use at the
won praise, and the practice spread among
other sento in Tokyo. Mt. Fuji symbolizes Japan
Basins and stools
bath. to begin with, and is widely regarded as an aus- 【桶と椅子】
picious motif. It is therefore not hard to see how Once you enter the bathing
painting it on a sento wall became popular. At room, take a basin and a stool
What are the bathing hours? present, there are only three such artists who to the washing area, and wash
Sento are usually open for bathing from 3:00 make paintings on sento walls in Japan. One of your body. When you have fin-
pm to 11:00 pm. Check locations on a sento them is Kiyoto Maruyama, who is more than 80 ished washing, take the basin
map and drop in while you are out sightseeing. years old. He stays very active and continues to and the stool back to where you
A sento map is available here. do paintings on sento walls. found them.

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