ABIL® EM 180

High performance emulsifier for all types of W/O formulations

• Very low usage concentration of down to 0.5 %

• Excellent stabilization in difficult systems

• Enhanced performance at high temperatures

• Great flexibility with electrolytes, UV filters and

active ingredients

• For hot and cold processing of creams, lotions

and gels
Personal Care
INCI name • The typical range for the oil phase content is
between 20 and 40 %.
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
• ABIL® EM 180 can be used to emulsify all types of
cosmetic oils (e.g. esters, ethers, silicones or
hydrocarbons).
• Substances with specific properties, such as UV
filters, plant extracts, moisturizers and
Polyether antiperspirants, are typically well tolerated by
emulsions based on ABIL® EM 180.
Silicone • At the very low use level of approx. 0.5 % an
addition of 3 – 5 % polyalcohol such as propylene
glycol or glycerin is recommended for freeze
Alkyl
stability.
• ABIL® EM 180 can typically be used as a sole
emulsifier. However, it can also be applied as a
Chemical and physical properties co-emulsifier in order to improve the overall
(not part of specifications) emulsion stability.
Form viscous liquid
HLB-value approx. 5 Influence on the visc
viscosity of the emulsion
The viscosity of the W/O emulsions based on
ABIL® EM 180 can be regulated via three variables.
Application
1. Viscosity of the oil phase
ABIL® EM 180 is a non-ionic W/O emulsifier which is The viscosity of the external phase correlates directly
based on silicone. The high emulsion stabilizing with the viscosity of the emulsion. This means that it
potential of ABIL® EM 180 is caused by the polymeric increases when low viscosity oils in a formulation are
and polyfunctional structure. replaced by more viscous oils or when waxes are
added; the latter show distinct effects even at 0.5 -
• ABIL® EM 180 is suitable for hot processed 1.0 %.
creams and lotions as well as for cold processed
creams, lotions and gels. 2. Phase ratio
• General use level is from 0.5 - 2.5 % for the In emulsions with predominant content of dispersed
production of W/O creams, lotions and gels. phase - as in the cosmetic W/O preparations - the
• The emulsifier is optimal for challenging viscosity increases significantly when the proportion
formulations: of the dispersed phase is increased. The reason for
• ABIL® EM 180 can handle a high amount of UV this is the interaction between the dispersed water
filters (oil phase level up to 55 % with a typical droplets which becomes stronger with increasing
SPF of 65+). packing density. Therefore ABIL® EM 180 creams on
• ABIL® EM 180 is able to stabilize a high average have lower oil contents than lotions.
amount of oil phase. Depending on the emulsifiable substances, creams
• Emulsions containing up to 20 % alcohol are can be prepared about 20 – 33 % of oil phase, lotions
possible. about 25 – 40 %.
• ABIL® EM 180 can create stable quick break
systems. 3. Degree of dispersion
• Due to the polyfunctional structure ABIL® EM 180 An additional parameter having an influence on
provides formulations with an extraordinary high viscosity is the degree of dispersion, which, however,
temperature stability. should not be used for regulation of viscosity due to
• ABIL® EM 180 offers great flexibility with respect its effect on the stability of the emulsion. The
to electrolytes. For example, the possible usage viscosity increases when, due to mechanical
range of sodium chloride is 0.05 % - 5.0 %. The processing, the diameter of the droplets is reduced
recommended usage concentration of sodium and the specific boundary area between the phases
chloride is 0.5 – 1.0 % is thereby increased. For this reason cream
• ABIL® EM 180 is suitable for a wide pH range formulations are still liquid in the pre-emulsion state
from 4.5 to 9.0. because of their coarse degree of dispersion.
• ABIL® EM 180 is an easy-to-handle liquid
product.
Preparation
Preparation Emulsifying
Emulsifying machines
A pre-requisite is the careful adjustment of the Stirring equipment or planetary mixers with high
formulation (phase ratio, viscosity of the oil phase) sheering force are very suitable for the manufacture
and optimum emulsification. The particle size for of creams and lotions on the laboratory and
creams which are stable over a long period of time is production scale, provided that they guarantee
below 1 •m, for lotions approx. 2 - 4 •m. More uniform work-up of the emulsion. Machines
coarsely dispersed emulsions tend to separate. predominately used in the cosmetic industry, which
Thorough, but not too intensive homogenization is are equipped with stirrer, stripper and rotor-stator
required. Extreme energy input frequently causes the homogenizer, fulfil all requirements for optimum
formation of highly viscous, metastable secondary emulsification.
structures which break down on storage. Under such
conditions lotions can transiently assume cream-like
consistency, e.g. by several passages through a Recommended usage concentration
colloid mill.
0.5 - 2.5 % of ABIL® EM 180
Optimum manufacturing conditions correspond to
the principles of normal production processes for • Gels 0.5 – 1.0 %
W/O emulsions. The water phase is incorporated • Lotions 0.5 – 1.5 %
slowly into the oil phase which contains the • Creams 1.0 – 2.5 %
emulsifier while stirring intensively. The coarsely
dispersed pre-emulsion is then homogenized. The
final homogenization should be performed below Packaging:
Packaging:
30 °C. 180 kg drum

The temperature program is variable and can take

the form of:
Hazardous goods classification
• hot/hot procedure
• hot/cold procedure Information concerning
• cold/cold procedure • classification and labelling according to
regulations for transport and for dangerous
In addition to the traditional hot/hot procedure (both substances
phases 80 - 90 °C) the hot/cold procedure can be • protective measures for storage and handling
used. It is characterized by incorporation of the cold • measures in case of accidents and fires
water phase (15 - 30 °C) into the hot oil phase which • toxicity and ecological effects
significantly shortens the time of manufacture. A
final homogenization step should be carried out is given in our material safety data sheets.
below 30 °C in order to ensure that the waxes are
homogeneously distributed in the formulation.

It is possible to manufacture W/O lotions based on

ABIL® EM 180 in a cold process. In such formulations
additives like zinc stearate can be used to improve
the overall stability.

The decisive criterion for production is the viscosity.

Mechanical processing is discontinued when the
viscosity is equal to that of the standard emulsion
developed and tested in the laboratory.
Guideline formulations

W/O Lotion with 0.5 % Emulsifier and 20 % Ethanol Quick-

Quick-Breaking
Breaking W/O Emulsion
DCA-
DCA-5631-
5631-190 H 8/10-
8/10-7
Phase A Phase A
ABIL® EM 180 0.50 % ABIL® EM 180 0.80 %
Mineral Oil (30 mPas) 10.00 % ABIL® Wax 9801 1.60 %
Bees Wax 0.50 % (Cetyl Dimethicone)
Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.50 % TEGOSOFT® DEC 4.00 %
TEGOSOFT® OS 10.00 % (Diethylhexyl Carbonate)
(Ethylhexyl Stearate) ABIL® 350 1.00 %
Cyclopentasiloxane 6.00 % (Dimethicone)
Tocopheryl Acetate 0.50 % Cyclopentasiloxane 4.00%
Phase B Magnesium Stearate 0.30 %
Water 47.80 % Phase B
Sodium Chloride 0.50 % Water 81.50 %
Glycerin 3.00 % Sodium Chloride 1.00 %
Phase C Propylene Glycol 5.00 %
Ethanol 20.00 % Phase C
Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, 0.70 % Dipropylene Glycol, Methylparaben, 0.80 %
Propylparaben, Ethylparaben Ethylparaben, Aqua,
(Phenonip XB, Clariant International Methylisothiazolinone
Ltd.) (Microcare MEM, Thor GmbH)
Phase Z Phase Z
Perfume q.s. Perfume q.s.*

Processing:
Processing: Processing
Processing:
ocessing:
1. Heat phase A to approx. 80 °C. 1. Mix phase A and B separately.
2. Add phase B (80 °C or room temperature) 2. Add phase B to phase A slowly while
slowly while stirring. stirring.
3. Homogenize for a short time. 3. Add phase C.
4. Cool with gentle stirring and add phase C 4. Homogenize.
below 40 °C.
* Stability tests and scale-up were performed with 0.10%
5. Homogenize again below 30 °C perfume.
High SPF Sunscreen
Sunscreen Lotion with EU Approved Very High SPF Sunscreen with US Approved Filters
Filters, SPF 30*
30* SPF 50+*
50+**
SZ 24/11-
24/11-1 DCA-
DCA-5787-
5787-144
Phase A Phase A
ABIL® EM 180 2.00 % ABIL® EM 180 2.00 %
Tocopheryl Acetate 0.50 % Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.50 %
Zinc Stearate 0.80 % Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5.00 %
Phase B Homosalate 15.00 %
TEGOSOFT® XC 9.00 % Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3.00 %
(Phenoxyethyl Caprylate) Benzophenone-3 6.00 %
TEGOSOFT® DEC 6.00 % Octocrylene 10.00 %
(Diethylhexyl Carbonate) TEGOSOFT® TIS 2.00 %
TEGOSOFT® TN 6.00 % (Triisostearin)
(C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) Microcrystalline Wax 1.20 %
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 3.00 % Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.80 %
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 2.00 % ABIL® Wax 9801 2.00 %
Octocrylene 9.00 % (Cetyl Dimethicone)
Phase C TEGOSOFT® DEC 2.00 %
TEGO® SUN T 805 4.00 % (Diethylhexyl Carbonate)
(Titanium Dioxide, Phase B
Trimethoxycaprylylsilane) Water 40.00 %
Phase D Sodium Chloride 0.10 %
Sodium Chloride 0.50 % EDTA 0.10 %
GluCare® S 0.20 % Propylene Glycol 3.00 %
(Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan) Phase C
Allantoin 0.10 % Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, 0.30 %
Water 56.20 % Methylparaben, Propylparaben
Phase E (Germaben II, ISP)
Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, 0.70 % Phase Z
Propylparaben, Ethylparaben Perfume q.s.
(Phenonip XB, Clariant AG)
Phase Z Processing
Processing:
ocessing:
Perfume q.s. 1. Heat phase A to approximately 80 °C.
2. Add phase B (80 °C or room temperature)
Processing
Processing:
ocessing: slowly while stirring.
1. Mix and heat phase B to 80°C until the UV- 3. Homogenize for a short time.
filters are dissolved, cool down. 4. Cool with gentle stirring and add phase C
2. Add titanium dioxide (phase C) and below 40 °C.
homogenize with full speed (Ultra Turrax). 5. Homogenize again below 30 °C.
3. Add phase B/C to phase A. ** Static SPF: 88 (in-vivo measurement according to FDA)
4. Charge phase A/B/C and add the water
phase (D) slowly while stirring (490 rpm).
5. Add phase E.
6. Homogenize.
* SPF 38 (in-vitro measurement, Labsphere 2000S,
1.00 mg/cm2 on PMMA slide)
UVA-balance: 50%
DHA Gel with Quick Break Action Color Foundation
DCA-
DCA -5787-
5787-38 DCA-
DCA -5787-
5787-166
Phase A Phase A
ABIL® EM 180 0.80 % ABIL® EM 180 2.50 %
TEGOSOFT® DEC 1.00 % TEGOSOFT® CT 5.00 %
(Diethylhexyl Carbonate) (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride)
Cyclopentasiloxane 5.00 % TEGOSOFT® OP 5.00 %
TEGOSOFT® SH 1.00 % (Ethylhexyl Palmitate)
(Stearyl Heptanoate) Dimethicone (10 mPas) 20.00 %
TEGOSOFT® TN 1.00% Titanium Dioxide 6.40 %
(C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate) Red Iron Oxide 0.78 %
ABIL® Wax 9801 0.50 % Yellow Iron Oxide 0.85 %
(Cetyl Dimethicone) Black Iron Oxide 0.27 %
Aerosil® R812S 0.80 % Phase B
(Silica Silylate) Water 56.10 %
Phase B Sodium Chloride 0.80 %
Water 32.70 % Propylene Glycol 2.00 %
Dihydroxyacetone 4.50 % Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, 0.30 %
Sodium Chloride 0.90 % Methylparaben, Propylparaben
Glycerin 29.00 % (Germaben II, ISP)
Butylene Glycol 18.00 % Phase Z
Ethanol 4.50 % Perfume q.s.
Citric Acid (10 % aq.) q.s. Processing
Processing:
ocessing:
Phase C 1. Mix phase A until uniform.
Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, 0.30 % 2. Mix phase B.
Methylparaben, Propylparaben 3. Add phase B to phase A slowly while
(Germaben II, ISP) stirring.
Phase Z 4. Homogenize.
Perfume q.s.

Processing
Processing:
ocessing:
1. Mix phase A and B separately.
2. Adjust the pH of phase B to 3.5 - 4.0.
3. Add phase B to phase A slowly while B 10/2011
stirring.
4. Add phase C.
5. Homogenize.