Anvil Industry ‘DUKW’ Armoured Personnel Carrier

Print and Assembly Instructions

Print settings
We have completed test prints on various different machines, and you should be able to get
excellent results with this kit.
If you already have resin settings dialled in well for regular size miniatures, they should work
fine, however we advise:
● Ensure your Light Off Delay is set correctly (usually at least 12-13 seconds).
● Max lift speed 40mm per minute.
● Slightly fewer attachment layers than usual, but increase the exposure for those
layers by 10% .
● Don’t overfill the build platform to ensure separation force is minimised. It’s possible
to print the kit in 3 prints, but we strongly advise doing it in 4 (details below).
● Ensure there is enough resin in the vat to complete the print- at least 5mm deep to
be safe.
● To minimise the risk of warping, we advise post curing the parts before removing
supports, as soon as possible after printing. Ideally using a proper post curing station
rather than sunlight. This is particularly important for thin components like the ramp,
panel inserts and hull tops.
● If you use lychee, it may complain that some parts are not manifold, you can safely
ignore these warnings.
● 50um layer height is recommended for optimum detail, but if you are just using the kit
for gaming then 100um will get perfectly good results and greatly reduce the print
time. Remember to adjust exposure time for 100um layers, 60% longer than the
setting for 50um should work ok but do a test print with a single wheel before jumping
in on a huge hull component.

Advanced note for blender users : we did not specifically design any of the components as
‘multishell’ however the way in which the kit was designed means that almost all the
components are made up of many shells - if you import a component into blender you can
individually select and delete, move or manipulate many parts of the vehicle detailing such
as rivets, d rings, panels, seatbelts etc.
Have fun, but be advised we take no responsibility if you delete or move something which is
structurally important and which causes a spectacular print fail.

Print Layout
We suggest one short print with the wheels, hull turret and axle (2 of each, they are
symmetrical so work on either side) , arranged like this so the rafts all slightly overlap, except
for the Axles which must not overlap and should be at least 1-2mm clear of other
components.
A second print contains Chassis - middle hull, interior detail panel(if you need one), rear
ramp (be sure to choose the correct ramp for your hull), rear light panels and main turret
components.
Again you can slightly overlap the rafts to make removal easier but do not overlap anything
with the middle hull. You can also print the hull turret machine gun with this print if you want
that option.

Your third print is the Chassis - front hull - either the DUKW or the Modern Hull + your Main
Turret Gun of choice.
4th print Option - Monohull or Full interior detail
If you want the standard armoured rear hull, and don’t intend to model or paint the rear
interior, then you can save quite time and resin by printing the MONOHULL option, in which
the armoured top, hatches and entire rear hull are printed in one piece, with the interior detail
removed and a stabilising connection between top and bottom used (don’t remove this!).
With the monohull, you need to print the light panels and the armoured top rear ramp
(included in print 2 above) but nothing else.

If you want to model and paint interior detail, then you need to print ‘Chassis - Rear section
with seats’ and then one of the following ‘chassis’ component sets (on the same print):
● Rear Roof Armoured with Hatch + Rear Top Hatch Left and Right + Internal Detail
Panel for enclosed Rear Hull Builds
● Rear Roof with High Turret Mount + second Main Turret Access Hatch (as this build
contains 2 hull holes) + Internal Detail Panel for enclosed Rear Hull Builds (optional
with this build, you could leave it out and just glue the rear ramp shut)
● Rear Roof Soft Top Cloth Cover + Internal Detail Panel for enclosed Rear Hull Builds
● For a fully open top build, you just need to print the open top rear ramp on print 2,
and the Interior Detail Panel for Open Top Rear Hull Build.

Assembly
The components are designed to ensure that support connection points are hidden when the
model is assembled, so very little clean up work is required. It is important to fully remove
supports where they would interfere with a smooth joint - the main gun, hull turret weapon
and rear ramp.

On the front and rear hull components, a number of ‘tabs’ stick out to ensure the print
remains attached to the build platform. These can be snapped off initially, but do then use
clippers or a file to fully remove any jagged edges.

The best approach to save time on removing supports is to remove supports only when test
fitting components together (without glue initially!) - you will quickly see where you need to
fully clean up supports to get a good fit, and where it's not important and no clean up work is
needed.
Start by attaching the interior detail panel (green, on the left, is the one used for any
armoured build, while the panel on the right has grab rails in place of a light and is suitable
for open top builds) and also gluing the rear light panels in place. The Monohull print option
is shown on the right and only needs the light panels at this stage.

Next, assemble the complete hull.

If you are using an interior detail panel, you must glue it to the rear chassis before gluing the
chassis, ensure edges are cleaned up so that it fits neatly.

The front and rear chassis components slot into the middle hull such that the join hides any
scarring from support tab removal. Ensure that you have an even all round fit and that the
horizontal ribs on the exterior are aligned. Dry fitting before applying glue is vital!!
Above: for a fully enclosed build, you can glue the top section onto the rear chassis either
before OR after assembly with the middle chassis. There are pros and cons to either method
and we advise dry fitting the top and both sections of the hull together first and then deciding
which works best for you.
In either case the key is to ensure that the top section is aligned correctly with the rear
chassis front to back.

The image below shows a middle and rear chassis assembled with the interior detail panel
for an enclosed build, you can see the gap where the top section will slot in.

At this point you can paint the model interior, or even the entire model, before completing the
build. You don’t actually have to permanently attach the top of the hull, it should stay in place
without glue.
Also above you can see the axles, which are glued on after the hull is complete. Remove
any excess resin from over cured attachment layers to ensure the axles slot neatly into the
locator tabs on the hull.
The axles are symmetrical so can be used on either side, but ensure they are attached the
right way up!

After the axles are securely attached, glue on the wheels. The rear wheels are fixed in place
- give them a little spin on the axle before applying glue, to grind down any support rod
distortion and ensure a good bond.

The front axles are designed so that the wheels can be posed if desired - hold the model
upside down while attaching them to ensure they both point in the same direction.
Attach the ramp - note the angle above - after smoothing the support scars on the ramp
hinge section you can easily slide it onto the hull hinge lugs from this angle. Carefully
rotating it upward will then lock the ramp in place and you can apply glue if desired or leave
it loose.

Main turret assembly is straight forward. Glue on your gun of choice. The hatch components
should not need glue unless you want to assemble the hatch partially open.
For the hull turret, we advise you glue the weapon (or recon array) to the turret first. Holding
the weapon, wiggle the turret into the hull ( having it point to the tanks left will make this
easier) and drop the locator pin (two are printed with the kit so you have a spare) to lock the
turret in place. You can carefully glue the top of the pin if desired (wiggle the turret to ensure
it stays moving) but do not have to use glue.

Congratulations!! Your vehicle is ready to send to the paint shop prior to deployment!

We’ve worked hard to make this kit and guide as user friendly as possible, and we hope you
will have a great time with it.
If anything in these instructions is unclear, or you have any trouble during your build, please
don’t hesitate to get in touch with us for further advice! We can be contacted at
support@anvilindustry.co.uk, on Patreon or on our Discord channel.

Thanks

Team Anvil