A - General

0A - General
0B - Information about the model
0C - Technical data
0D - Use and maintenance
0E - Fairings
0F - Controls - Devices
0G - Wheels - Suspension - Brakes
0H - Frame
0L - Fuel/Exhaust System
0M - Fuel injection - ignition system
0N - Engine
0P - Electrical system
0GENERAL SUMMARY
Section A
0A - General
1 - How to use this manual 3
Layout of the manual 3

2 - Symbols - Abbreviations - References 5

Product specifications 5

3 - Hazardous Products - Warnings 7

General safety rules 7
General maintenance indications 8

Section B
0B - Information about the model
1 - Identification data 3
Hypermotard identification data 3

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 A - General

Section C
0C - Technical data
1.1 - Technical specifications 3
General 3
Colours 4
Transmission 4
Timing system/valves 4
Exhaust system 5
Cylinder/Piston 5
Gearbox 5
Cooling system 5
Front wheel 6
Front suspension 6
Rear wheel 6
Rear suspension 6
Hydraulic brakes 7
Charging system/alternator 7
Ignition system 7
Fuel system 8
Fuel system 8
Lights/instrument panel 8

1.2 - Dimensions 9
2 - Fuel, lubricants and other fluids 10
3 - Torque settings 11
Frame torque settings 11
Engine torque settings 16

4 - Service tools 19
Specific tools for the engine 19
Specific tools for the frame 23

Section D
0D - Use and maintenance

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 A - General

1 - Preliminary checks 3
Running-in precautions 3
Pre-ride checks 4

2 - Starting - Engine warmup 5

Starting the engine 5

3 - Routine maintenance table 6

Programmed maintenance plan: operations to be carried out by the dealer 6
Programmed maintenance plan: operations to be carried out by the customer 7

4 - Maintenance operations 8
Checking the engine oil level 8
Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge 9
Checking valve clearances 12
Changing and cleaning the air filters 14
Changing the brake fluid 17
Draining the brake circuits 20
Filling the brake circuits 22
Changing the clutch fluid 24
Draining the clutch hydraulic circuit 25
Filling the clutch circuit 27
Adjusting the steering head bearings 29
Adjusting the clutch lever and front brake lever 30
Adjusting the chain tension 31
Checking brake pad wear and changing brake pads 33
Adjusting the throttle cables 37
Adjusting the position of the gearchange and rear brake pedals 39
Adjusting the rear shock absorber 40

5 - Diagnostic instruments 42
Description of the Ducati Diagnostic System instrument 43
Tester power supply 46
DDS tester 50
Checking and adjusting timing belt tension 51
Self-learning throttle position sensor (TPS) 55
Adjusting the idle speed 59
Checking the engine oil pressure 64
Cylinder compression test 68
Fuel pressure test 71
Immobilizer override procedure 74

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 A - General

Guided diagnosis 77
Testing the battery charging system 80
Deactivating the “service” indication on the instrument panel 83
Icons table 87

Section E
0E - Fairings
1 - Headlight fairing - hand guards - rear-view mirrors 3
Removal of the hand guards - rearview mirrors 4
Refitting the hand guards - rearview mirrors 5
Removal of the headlight fairing 7
Refitting the headlight fairing 9

2 - Fairings 10
Removal of the side fairings 11
Refitting the side fairings 14

3 - Seat - side panels 15

Removal of the seat 16
Refitting the seat 16
Removal of the rear side panels 18
Refitting the rear side panels 19

4 - Front mudguard 20
Removal of the front mudguard 21
Refitting the front mudguard 22

Section F
0F - Controls - Devices
1 - Throttle twistgrip 3
Adjusting the throttle cable 4
Removal of the throttle twistgrip 4
Refitting the throttle twistgrip 5

2 - Hydraulic clutch control 7

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 A - General

Removal of the clutch master cylinder assembly 8

Refitting the clutch master cylinder assembly 9
Removal of the clutch slave cylinder 11
Refitting the clutch slave cylinder 12

3 - Front brake control 17

Removal of the front brake master cylinder 18
Refitting the front brake master cylinder 19

4 - Rear brake control 23

Removal of the rear brake master cylinder 24
Refitting the rear brake master cylinder 26

5 - Gearchange control 31
Removal of the gearchange control 32
Disassembly of the gearchange control 33
Refitting the gearchange control 33

Section G
0G - Wheels - Suspension - Brakes
1 - Front wheel 3
Removal of the front wheel 4
Overhauling the front wheel 6
Refitting the front wheel 9

2 - Front fork 11
Removal of the front forks 12
Overhauling the front forks 13
Refitting the front forks 21

3 - Hydraulic front brake 22

Maintenance operations 23
Removal of the front brake system 23
Removal of the brake discs 24
Refitting the brake discs 25
Overhauling the front brake components 25
Refitting the front brake system 26

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 A - General

4 - Rear wheel 29
Removal of the rear wheel 30
Overhauling the rear wheel 30
Refitting the rear wheel 32

5 - Rear swingarm 33
Removal of the rear eccentric hub 34
Refitting the rear eccentric hub 36
Removal of the swingarm 38
Inspecting the swingarm pivot shaft 41
Overhauling the rear swingarm 42
Refitting the swingarm 47

6 - Hydraulic rear brake 49

Removal of the rear brake system 50
Removal of the rear brake disc 52
Refitting the rear brake disc 53
Refitting the rear brake system 54

7 - Rear suspension 56
Rear suspension system 57
Removal of the rear shock absorber 57
Overhauling the rear shock absorber 58
Removal of the rear suspension rocker arm 60
Overhauling the rear suspension rocker arm 61
Refitting the rear suspension 63

8 - Final drive 66
Inspecting the final drive 67
Removal of the front sprocket 68
Refitting the front sprocket 69
Renewal of the oil seal on the gearbox output shaft 70
Removal of the rear sprocket 71
Refitting the rear sprocket 73
Washing the chain 74
Lubricating the chain 74

Section H
0H - Frame

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 A - General

1 - Handlebar 3
Removal of the handlebar 4
Refitting the handlebar 6

2 - Steering 9
Adjusting the steering head bearings 10
Steering angle adjustment 11
Removal of the steering head components 12
Refitting the steering head components 15

4 - Footrest brackets 21
Removal of the footrest brackets 22
Refitting the footrest brackets 25

5 - Sidestands 30
Removal of the sidestand 31
Refitting the sidestand 33

6 - Frame inspection 34
Disassembly of structural components and the frame 35
Removal of the rear subframe 35
Checking the frame 36
Reassembly of structural components and the frame 37

7 - Tail light and number plate holder 39

Removal of the tail light 41
Refitting the tail light 43
Removal of the number plate holder 47
Refitting the number plate holder 48
Removal of the rear turn signals 50
Refitting the rear turn signals 50

Section L
0L - Fuel/Exhaust System
2 - Fuel tank 3
Removal of the fuel tank 4
Removal of the fuel tank filler cap 8
Refitting the fuel tank filler cap 8

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 A - General

Removal of the fuel tank flange 10

Refitting the fuel tank flange 11
Refitting the fuel tank 12

6 - Throttle body 23
Removal of the throttle body 24
Refitting the throttle body 28

7 - Air intake 33
Removal of the airbox 34
Removal of the oil breather valve 39
Refitting the oil breather valve 39
Refitting the airbox 40

8 - Exhaust system 45
Removal of the exhaust system 46
Refitting the exhaust system 50

10 - Evaporative emissions canister 54

Evaporative emissions canister system (USA versions only) 55
Removal of the evaporative emissions canister 56
Refitting the evaporative emissions canister 57

Section M
0M - Fuel injection - ignition system
1 - Description of the system 3
General information on the fuel injection-ignition system 3
Fuel circuit 6
Air circuit 7
Operating phases 9

2 - Fuel injection-ignition system 10

3 - System components 11
Electronic control unit (ECU) 11
Removal of the electronic control unit 12
Refitting the ECU 12
Fuel injectors 14

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 A - General

Stepper motor 15
Lambda sensor 16
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) 18
Rpm/timing sensor 18
Air temperature sensor 19
Air pressure sensor 20
Spark plug 22
Coil 23
Injection relay 24
CAN Line 25

Section N
0N - Engine
1 - Removal - refitting of the engine assembly 5
Removal of the engine 6
Refitting the engine 9

2.1 - Lubrication system: oil pump 11

Removal of the oil pump 12
Disassembly of the oil pump 13
Reassembly of the oil pump 14
Refitting the oil pump 15

2.2 - Lubrication system: oil cooler 16

Removal of the oil cooler 17
Oil cooler inspection 19
Refitting the oil cooler 19

2.3 - Lubrication system: oil breather 22

Removal of the oil breather valve 23
Refitting the oil breather system 24

4.1 - Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments 25

Checking and adjusting valve clearances 26
Checking the engine timing 30

4.2 - Cylinder head assemblies: timing belt covers/timing system 32

Removal of the timing belt covers 33
Removal of the timing system assembly 34

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 A - General

Disassembly and reassembly of the timing belt pulleys 37

Refitting the timing system assembly 38
Refitting the timing belt covers 46

4.3 - Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts 47

Removal of the intake manifolds 48
Refitting the intake manifolds 49
Removal of the inner timing belt covers and camshaft end caps 50
Removal of the valve covers 52
Refitting the valve covers 53
Removal of the camshafts 54
Inspecting the camshafts 56
Checking the oil seals 56
Refitting the camshafts 57
Refitting the camshaft end caps 60

4.4 - Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms 62

Removal of the cylinder head assembly 63
Overhaul of cylinder head components 67
Refitting the cylinder head assembly 75
Refitting the cylinder heads 81

5 - Cylinder/piston assemblies 83
Removal of the cylinder/piston assembly 84
Overhaul of the cylinder barrel/piston components 87
Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly 93

6.1 - Clutch assembly: APTC wet clutch 97

Description of the APTC clutch assembly 98
Removal of the APTC clutch 99
Disassembly of the clutch hub-plates-centre assembly 101
Overhaul and inspection of the APTC clutch components 102
Reassembly of the clutch hub-plates-centre assembly 104
Refitting the APTC clutch 106

6.2 - Clutch assembly: clutch-side crankcase cover 109

Removal of the clutch-side crankcase cover 110
Disassembly of the clutch-side crankcase cover 111
Reassembly of the clutch-side crankcase cover 112
Refitting the clutch-side crankcase cover 113

6.3 - Clutch assembly: primary drive gears 115

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 A - General

Removal of the primary drive gears 116

Refitting the primary drive gears and checking backlash 118

7.1 - Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism 121

Removal of the gearchange mechanism 122
Disassembly of the gear interlock plunger and pawl assembly 125
Reassembly of the gear interlock plunger and pawl assembly 126
Refitting the gearchange mechanism 128

7.2 - Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts 130

Removal of the gearbox assembly 131
Disassembly of the gearbox shafts 133
Overhaul of the gearbox 141
Inspection of the gear selector forks 142
Inspection of the gear selector drum 143
Reassembly of the gearbox shafts 144
Reassembly of the gearbox 148

8 - Flywheel-alternator 149
Removal of the alternator-side crankcase cover 150
Disassembly of the alternator-side crankcase cover 151
Removal of the flywheel-alternator assembly 152
Checking the flywheel/alternator assembly 154
Refitting the flywheel-alternator assembly 159
Reassembly of the alternator-side crankcase cover 161
Refitting the alternator-side crankcase cover 162

9.1 - Crankcase assembly: external components 165

Removal of external components 166
Refitting the external components 169
Removal of the timing gears 173
Refitting the timing gears 174
Removal of the starter motor idler gear 175
Refitting the starter motor idler gear 176

9.2 - Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves 177

Separation of the crankcase halves 178
Overhaul of the crankcase halves 181
Overhaul of the main bearings 183
Reassembly of the crankcase halves 184
Shimming the shafts 185
Reassembly of the crankcase halves 188

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 A - General

9.3 - Crankcase assembly: crankshaft/connecting rods assembly 195

Removal of the crankshaft/connecting rods assembly 196
Disassembly of the crankshaft/connecting rods assembly 197
Overhaul of the connecting rods 197
Reassembly of the connecting rods 203
Refitting the crankshaft/connecting rod assembly 205

Section P
0P - Electrical system
1 - Wiring diagram 4
Key to wiring diagram 5
Wiring colour codes 6
Key to fuse box 6
Routing of wiring on frame 7
Plate A 9
Plate B 10
Plate C 13
Plate D 15
Plate E 16
Plate F 18
Plate G 19
Plate H 20
Plate L 22
Plate N 23
Plate O 25
Plate P 28
Plate Q 30
Plate R 31
Plate S 33
Plate T 35
Plate U 36
Plate V 37
Plate W 39
Plate X 41
Plate Y 43

2 - Battery charging system 44

Checking the battery charging system 44

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 A - General

Recharging the battery 45

Topping up the electrolyte 46
Battery 50
Alternator 52
Regulator/rectifier 55

3 - Electric starting system 58

Electric starting system 58
Starter motor 59
Starter contactor 62

4 - Lights and indicating devices 65

Removal of the instrument panel 65
Changing bulbs 66
Headlight aim 69

5 - Indicating devices 71
Checking the indicating devices 71
Changing bulbs 78

6 - Protection and safety devices 79

Checking protection and safety device components 79
Checking the fuses 81

7 - Instruments 82
Instrument panel 82
Instrument panel system 83
Display settings and functions 85

8 - Immobilizer and transponder 118

9 - Diagnostic instruments 123
Using a multimeter to check the electrical systems 123

10 - USB Data Acquisition kit 125

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 A - Impianto elettrico

0A - Impianto elettrico
1 - How to use this manual 3
Layout of the manual 3

2 - Symbols - Abbreviations - References 5

Product specifications 5

3 - Hazardous Products - Warnings 7

General safety rules 7
General maintenance indications 8

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 How to use this manual

1 - How to use this manual

This manual has been prepared for technical personnel at Ducati Authorized Service Centres with
the aim of providing fundamental information on how to work in accordance with the modern
concepts of “best practice” and “safety in the workplace” during the maintenance, repair or
replacement of original components of the cycle parts and engine of this motorcycle.
All operations described in this manual must be carried out by experienced, skilled technicians, who
are required to follow the Manufacturer's instructions in full.
Some information has been intentionally omitted, as we believe that all specialized technicians
should have a basic technical background. Additional information on how to install various
components is provided in the spare parts catalogue.

Important
This manual also describes the essential checks to be carried out prior to delivery of the motorcycle.

Ducati Motor Holding S.p.A. declines all liability for any technical errors or omissions in this manual
and reserves the right to make changes made necessary by the technical evolution of its products
without prior notice.
The information contained herein was correct at the time of going to press.

Important
Reproduction or disclosure of all or part of the contents of this manual is strictly forbidden. All rights
for this manual are reserved for Ducati Motor Holding S.p.A. Applications for authorization for
reproduction must be submitted in writing and must specify the reasons for such reproduction.

Ducati Motor Holding S.p.A.

Layout of the manual

This manual is divided into sections (1), each identified by a letter.

Each section (1) is made up of several chapters (2), which are numbered consecutively.
The chapters (2) may be further subdivided into paragraphs (3).

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 How to use this manual

The manual describes all repair operations starting from the fully assembled motorcycle.
The full procedure is described up to the point in which the motorcycle is restored to its fully
assembled starting condition.

Important
Some of the sections of this manual are not included, since the motorcycle in question is not
equipped with the relevant parts.

Important
The layout of the manual is designed in such a way as to be applicable to all the different models
manufactured by Ducati Motor Holding.
To facilitate consultation of the manual, the table of contents is identical for all motorcycle models.

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 Symbols - Abbreviations - References

2 - Symbols - Abbreviations - References

To allow quick and easy consultation, this manual uses graphic symbols to highlight situations in which maximum
care is required, as well as practical advice or information. Pay attention to the meaning of the symbols since they
serve to avoid repeating technical concepts or safety warnings throughout the text. The symbols should therefore
be seen as an aid to memory. Please refer to this page whenever in doubt as to their meaning.

The terms right-hand (RH) and left-hand (LH) are used with reference to the motorcycle's direction of forward
travel.

Warning
Failure to comply with these instructions may put you at risk, and could lead to severe injury or even death.

Important
Failure to follow the instructions in text marked with this symbol can lead to serious damage to the motorcycle and
its components.

Notes
This symbol indicates additional useful information for the current operation.

Text references
(X)
References in bold type indicate a part that is not illustrated in the figures next to the text, but which can be found
in the exploded views at the beginning of each chapter.

(X)
References in non-bold type indicate a part that is illustrated in the figures alongside the text.

Product specifications
Symbols in the diagram show the type of threadlocker, sealant or lubricant to be used at the points indicated. The
table below shows the symbols used and the specifications of the various products.

Symbol Specifications Recommended product

Engine oil (for specifications, see Sect. C 2, Fuel, SHELL
lubricants and other fluids). Advance Ultra 4

DOT 4 special hydraulic brake fluid. SHELL

Advance Brake DOT 4

SAE 80-90 gear oil or special products for chains with SHELL
O-rings. Advance Chain or Advance Teflon
Chain

Anti-freeze (nitride, amine and phosphate free) 30 to SHELL

40% solution in water. Advance coolant or Glycoshell

GREASE A Multipurpose, medium fibre, lithium grease. SHELL Alvania R3

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Symbols - Abbreviations - References

GREASE B Molybdenum disulphide grease, high mechanical SHELL

stress and high temperature resistant. Retinax HDX2

GREASE C Bearing/joint grease for parts subject to prolonged SHELL

mechanical stress. Temperature range: -10 to 110 °C. Retinax LX2

GREASE D Protective grease, with anti-corrosive and SHELL

waterproofing properties. Retinax HD2

GREASE E PANKL grease - PLB 05.

GREASE F OPTIMOL grease - PASTE WHITE T.

LOCK 1 Low-strength threadlocker. Loctite 222

LOCK 2 Medium-strength threadlocker, compatible with oil. Loctite 243

LOCK 3 High-strength threadlocker for threaded parts. Loctite 270

LOCK 4 Flange sealant resistant to high mechanical stress Loctite 510

and solvents. Resists high temperatures (up to 200 °
C) and pressures up to 350 bar; fills gaps up to
0.4 mm.
LOCK 5 Permanent adhesive for smooth or threaded Loctite 128455
cylindrical fasteners on mechanical parts.
High resistance to mechanical stress and solvents.
Temperature range: -55 to 175 °C.
LOCK 6 Pipe sealant for pipes and medium to large fasteners. Loctite 577
For water and gases (except oxygen). Maximum
filling capacity: 0.40 diameter clearances up to 0.40
mm.
LOCK 7 Speed bonder for rubber and plastics with elastomer Loctite 480
charged ethylic base.

LOCK 8 High-strength retaining compound for threaded parts, Loctite 601

bearings, bushes, splines and keys. Temperature
range: -55 to 150 °C.

LOCK 9 Medium-strength threadlocker. Loctite 406

LOCK 10 Product for metal parts to seal and lock cylindrical Loctite 128443
freely sliding or threaded couplings. Resistant to high
mechanical stress and high temperature, excellent
resistance to solvents and chemical attack.

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Symbols - Abbreviations - References

LOCK 11 Medium-strength threadlocker. Loctite 401

LOCK 12 Instant adhesive gel offering tensile/shear strength. Loctite 454 gel

DUCATI liquid gasket. 942470014

Exhaust pipe paste. Self-sealing paste, hardens when Holts Firegum

heated; resists temperatures exceeding 1000 °C.

Spray used to protect electrical systems. Eliminates SHELL

moisture and condensation and provides excellent Advance Contact Cleaner
corrosion resistance. Water repellent.

Dry lubricant, polymerizing on contact with air. Molykote D321R

Emulsion for lubrication of rubber. P 80

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 Hazardous Products - Warnings

3 - Hazardous Products - Warnings

General safety rules

Carbon monoxide
When a maintenance operation must be performed with the engine running, make sure that the
working area is well-ventilated. Never run the engine in an enclosed space.

Warning
Exhaust fumes contain carbon monoxide, which is a poisonous gas that can cause unconsciousness
or even death if inhaled.

Run the engine outdoors or, if working indoors, use an exhaust fume extraction system.

Fuel
Always make sure the working area is well ventilated. Keep any sources of ignition, such as
cigarettes, open flames or sparks, well away from working area and fuel storage area.

Warning
Petrol is highly flammable and can explode under certain conditions. Keep away from children.

Hot parts

Warning
The engine and exhaust parts become hot when the motorcycle engine is running and will stay hot
for some time after the engine has been stopped. Wear heat-resistant gloves before handling these
components or allow the engine and exhaust system to cool down before proceeding.

Warning
The exhaust system might be hot even after engine is switched off; take special care not to touch
the exhaust system with any part of your body and do not park the motorcycle next to inflammable
material (wood, leaves, etc.).

Used engine oil

Warning
Prolonged or repeated contact with used engine oil may cause skin cancer. If working with engine
oil on a daily basis, make it a rule to wash your hands thoroughly with soap immediately
afterwards. Keep away from children.

Brake pad dust

Never clean the brake assemblies using compressed air or a dry brush.

Brake fluid

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 Hazardous Products - Warnings

Warning
Avoid spilling brake fluid onto plastic, rubber or painted parts of the motorcycle to avoid the risk of
damage. Protect these parts with a clean shop cloth before proceeding to service the motorcycle.
Keep away from children.

Battery

Warning
The battery produces explosive gases; keep it away from any source of ignition such as sparks,
flames and cigarettes. When charging the battery, ensure that the working area is properly
ventilated.

General maintenance indications

Useful tips
Ducati recommends that you follow the instructions below in order to prevent problems and obtain
the best end result:
when diagnosing faults, primary consideration should always be given to what the customer
- reports about motorcycle operation since this information can highlight anomalies; your questions
to the customer concerning symptoms of the fault should be aimed at clarifying the problem;
diagnose the problem systematically and accurately before proceeding further. This manual
- provides the theoretical background for troubleshooting; this basis must be combined with
personal experience and attendance at periodic training courses held by Ducati;
repair work should be planned carefully in advance to prevent any unnecessary downtime, for
-
example obtaining the required spare parts or preparing the necessary tools, etc.;
limit the number of operations to those essential to access the part to be repaired. Note that the
- disassembly procedures in this manual describe the most efficient way to reach the part to be
repaired.

General advice on repair work

Always use top quality tools. When lifting the motorcycle, only use devices that comply fully with
-
the relevant European directives.
When working on the motorcycle, always keep the tools within reach, ideally in the order required,
-
and never put them on the motorcycle or in hard-to-reach or inaccessible places.
- The workplace must be kept clean and tidy at all times.
- Always replace gaskets, seals and split pins with new parts.
When loosening or tightening nuts and bolts, always start with the largest or start from the centre;
-
tighten nuts and bolts to the specified torque working in a crosswise sequence.
- Always mark any parts and positions which might easily be confused at the time of reassembly.
- Use exclusively Ducati original replacement parts and the recommended brands of lubricants.
- Use special service tools where specified.
Ducati Technical Bulletins often contain updated versions of the service procedures described in
-
this manual. Check the latest Bulletins for details.

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 B - Impianto elettrico

0B - Impianto elettrico
1 - Identification data 3
Hypermotard identification data 3

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 Identification data

1 - Identification data
Hypermotard identification data
Each Ducati motorcycle has two identification numbers - the frame number and the engine number
- and an EC nameplate (A) (not present on the US version).

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 Identification data

Notes
Please quote these numbers, which identify the motorcycle model, when ordering spare parts.

Data stamped on the frame

Europe version
1 Manufacturer: Ducati Motor Holding
2 Type, same on all Hypermotard models
3 Variant (01= EC homologation; 02= 25 kW homologation)
4 Version
5 Year of manufacture (A = 2010)
6 Manufacturing facility
7 Progressive serial No.

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 Identification data

Data stamped on the frame

US version
1 Manufacturer: Ducati Motor Holding
2 Motorcycle type
3 Variant – Numeric or X (Check digit)
4 Model year (A = 2010)
5 Manufacturing facility
6 Progressive serial No.

Data stamped on engine

Europe version
1 Manufacturer: Ducati Motor Holding
2 Engine type
3 Progressive production No.

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 Identification data

Data stamped on engine

US version
1 Engine type
2 Model year (A = 2010)
3 Progressive production No.

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 1.1 - Technical specifications 3

1.1 - Technical specifications 3

General 3
Colours 4
Transmission 4
Timing system/valves 4
Exhaust system 5
Cylinder/Piston 5
Gearbox 5
Cooling system 5
Front wheel 6
Front suspension 6
Rear wheel 6
Rear suspension 6
Hydraulic brakes 7
Charging system/alternator 7
Ignition system 7
Fuel system 8
Fuel system 8
Lights/instrument panel 8

1.2 - Dimensions 9
2 - Fuel, lubricants and other fluids 10
3 - Torque settings 11
Frame torque settings 11
Engine torque settings 16

4 - Service tools 19
Specific tools for the engine 19
Specific tools for the frame 23

0C - Impianto elettrico

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 Technical specifications

1.1 - Technical specifications

General

Reference Technical specifications

Motorcycle dimensions Total length 2170±20 mm
Total width 900±20 mm
Maximum height 1130±20 mm
Wheelbase 1460±20 mm
Height of handlebar grip from ground 1060 mm
Seat height 815 mm
Height of pillion passenger foot rest 320 mm
Minimum ground clearance 147 mm
Frame Type High-strength tubular steel trellis frame
Steering head angle 24°
Steering angle (on each side) 32°
Trail 102 mm
Front wheel Light alloy, five spokes
Front wheel size MT 3.50x17"
Front tyre size 120/70 - ZR 17
Rear wheel Light alloy, five spokes with cush drive dampers
Rear wheel size MT 5.50x17"
Rear tyre size 180/55 - ZR 17
Type of tyre Radial tubeless tyre
Front brake Semi-floating drilled dual disc
Rear brake With fixed drilled steel disc
Engine Type Longitudinal 90º “L” twin cylinder, four-stroke
Bore 88 mm
Stroke 66 mm
Displacement 803 cm³
Compression ratio 11±0.5:1
Timing system Desmodromic with two valves per cylinder,
operated by four rocker arms (two opening
rockers and two closing rockers) and one
overhead camshaft. The camshaft is driven by
the crankshaft through spur gears, belt rollers
and toothed belts
Lubrication system Pump-forced
Oil pump type Gear pump
Cooling system Air-cooled
Air filter One filtering element
Crankshaft type One-piece
Cylinder arrangement “L” at 90°

Colours

Description Code no
796 Ducati Anniversary Red F_473.101 (PPG)
Transparent 228.880 (PPG)
Red frame with black wheels

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 Technical specifications

StreetFighter pearl white L2909004 (LECHLER)

Basecoat L0050786 (LECHLER)
Transparent 923I1281 (PALINI)
Black frame with black wheels
Matt black 291.501 (PPG)
Black frame with black wheels

Transmission

Reference Technical specifications

Clutch Wet multiplate
Clutch control Hydraulic
Gearbox 6 speed
Primary drive 33/61
Transmission ratio 1.85
Final drive 15/42
Final drive ratio 2.8
Gearbox type With constant mesh straight-tooth gears,
operated by a lever on the left side of the
motorcycle
Transmission Gear ratios
1st 13/32

2nd 18/30

3rd 21/28

4th 23/26

5th 22/22

6th 26/24

Timing system/valves

Reference Adjusting clearance Checking clearance

Timing diagram With 1 mm valve clearance
Intake Opening 18° B.T.D.C.
Closing 60° A.B.D.C.
Exhaust system Opening 53° B.B.D.C.
Closing 23° A.T.D.C.
Intake valve diameter 44 mm
Exhaust valve diameter 38.5 mm
Valve lift With 0 mm valve clearance Intake 11.20 mm
Exhaust 10.80 mm
Opening rocker arm - intake 0.10 to 0.15 mm 0.10 to 0.15 mm
Opening rocker arm - exhaust 0.10 to 0.15 mm 0.10 to 0.15 mm
Closing rocker arm - intake 0 to 0.05 mm 0 to 0.05 mm
Closing rocker arm - exhaust 0 to 0.05 mm 0 to 0.05 mm
Reference Adjusting clearance Reset value
(new belt) (used belt)
Belt tensioning when cold DDS 145±5 Hz (horizontal) 100±5 Hz
160±5 Hz (vertical) (horizontal)
100±5 Hz (vertical)
Limit value of used belt when 70 Hz
cold

Exhaust system

Reference Technical specifications

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 Technical specifications

Exhaust system Catalytic converter with lambda Euro 3

sensor

Cylinder/Piston

Reference Standard value Service limit

Cylinder barrel Max. bore ovality 0.03 mm
Max. bore taper 0.03 mm
Nominal diameter 88 mm
Class A 88.000 to 88.010 mm
Class B 88.010 to 88.020 mm
Class C 88.020 to 88.030 mm
Piston-to-cylinder bore clearance 0.025 to 0.045 mm
Piston Nominal diameter 88 mm
Class A 87.965 to 87.975 mm
Class B 87.975 to 87.985 mm
Class C 87.985 to 87.995 mm
Connecting rod Connecting-rod big-end 43.67 mm
diameter
Crankshaft – Big-end journal diameter Ø 40.017 mm/0 to
0.016 mm
Gudgeon pin–to-piston clearance 0.015 to 0.024 mm
Nominal diameters Ø 18 mm
Piston Ø 18 mm/0.020 to
0.015
Gudgeon pin Ø 18 mm/0 to 0.004
Gudgeon pin-to-connecting rod clearance 0.028 to 0.041 mm
Cylinder compression Standard 11 to 13 bar
Minimum min 10 bar
Max. permissible difference max 2 bar

Gearbox

Reference Standard value Service limit

Gearbox shafts Endfloat 0.05 to 0.20 mm
Selector drum Endfloat 0.10 to 0.40 mm
Gear selector fork Selector fork end thickness 3.90 to 4.00 mm
Selector fork-to-gear 0.070 to 0.285 mm 0.4 mm
clearance

Cooling system

Reference Technical specifications

Type Air-cooled: heat dispersion through the
extensive finning on the two cylinder barrel/head
assemblies

Front wheel

Reference Standard value Service limit

Minimum tread depth In the most worn part 2 mm
Tyre pressure Cold 2.2 bar
Axle runout On 100 mm 0.2 mm
Wheel rim runout Radial 0.8 mm 2 mm
Axial 0.5 mm 2 mm

Front suspension

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 Technical specifications

Reference Technical specifications

Type Marzocchi hydraulic upside-down forks, non-
adjustable, Ø 43 mm
Travel along leg axis 165 mm
Fork Not adjustable
Oil charge per leg 450 cc (right fork)
470 cc (left fork)

Rear wheel

Reference Standard value Service limit

Minimum tread depth In the most worn part 2 mm
Tyre pressure Cold 2.2 bar
Swingarm pivot shaft runout On 100 mm 0.2 mm
Wheel rim runout Radial 0.8 mm 2 mm
Axial 0.5 mm 2 mm
Chain Make DID
Type 525 HV2
Dimensions 5/8" x 5/16"
No. of links 104

Rear suspension

Reference Technical specifications

Type Sachs, progressive, with adjustable
rebound, compression and spring preload
Shock absorber Stroke 59.5 mm
Hydraulic damping standard setting. Compression: NON ADJUSTABLE
Turn the adjusters fully clockwise Rebound: 12±2 clicks
until they stop, then turn them
anticlockwise
Spring preload 23 mm
Wheel travel 135 mm

Hydraulic brakes

Reference Standard value Service limit

FRONT
Brake disc Type Drilled semi-floating dual disc
Shim 4.5 mm 4 mm (min.)
Flange material Steel
Braking surface material Steel
Diameter 305 mm
Braking surface 84 cm2
Brake caliper Make Brembo
Type 30/34 - 4 piston
Caliper cylinder diameter 30-34 mm
Pad friction material FERIT I/D 450-FP
Brake master cylinder Type PSC18
Master cylinder diameter 18
REAR
Brake disc Type Fixed drilled disc
Shim 5 mm 4.5 mm (min.)
Material Steel

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 Technical specifications

Braking surface material Steel

Diameter 245 mm
Braking surface 25 cm2
Brake caliper Make Brembo
Type 34 - 2 piston
Caliper cylinder diameter 34 mm
Pad friction material FERIT I/D 450 FF
Brake master cylinder Type PS11
Master cylinder diameter 11

Charging system/alternator

Reference Technical specifications

Battery Voltage 12 V
Capacity 10 Ah
Type Sealed, maintenance free
Alternator Capacity 12 V - 480 W

Ignition system

Reference Technical specifications

Ignition Type Inductive electronic ignition
Spark plugs Make and type NGK DCPR8E - Champion RA 4 HC
Electrode gap 0.7 to 0.8 mm
Starting Type Electric starter motor, 12 V - 0.7 kW

Fuel system

Make Type
Unleaded fuel 95-98 RON
Throttle body Ø 45
Injectors per cylinder 1
Holes per injector 8

Fuel system

Make Type
Electronic Control Unit Siemens M3C

Lights/instrument panel

Reference Technical specifications

Headlight Bulb type (single bulb) H4 (12 V - 55 W/60 W)
Side light Bulb type W3W (12 V - 3 W)
Turn signals Bulb type Front: LED
Rear: 12 V - 3 W
Tail light and brake light LED
Number plate light Bulb type 12 V - 5 W
Fuses
Key to fusebox Key on, starter contactor, lambda, eng. stop 10 A
Lights 15 A
Loads 15 A
Injection 20 A

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Technical specifications

ECU 5A
Instrument panel 5A
DDA and battery charging 5A
Spare 20 A
Spare 20 A
Spare 15 A

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 Dimensions

1.2 - Dimensions

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Dimensions

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 Fuel, lubricants and other fluids

2 - Fuel, lubricants and other fluids

Fluids and lubricants Type dm³ (litres)

Fuel tank, including a reserve of 3.3 dm3 Unleaded fuel with 95 fuel octane rating (at 12.4
(litres) least)
Lubrication circuit SHELL Advance Ultra 4 3.4
Front/rear brake and clutch circuits Special hydraulic system fluid - SHELL Advance –
Brake Dot 4
Protection for electrical contacts SHELL Advance Contact Cleaner spray for –
electrical systems
Front fork SHELL Advance Fork 7.5 or Donax TA 450 cc (right fork)
470 cc (left fork)

Important
Do not use additives in fuel or lubricants.

Engine oil
A good quality engine oil has special properties. Use only a highly detergent engine oil with certified SE, SF or SG or
higher service ratings as marked on the container.

Oil viscosity
SAE 15W-50
The other viscosity grades specified in the table can be used where the average ambient temperatures are within the
limits shown.

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 Torque settings

3 - Torque settings
Frame torque settings

Part Thread/pitch (mm) Nm ±10% Tolerance Notes

Accessories and equipment
Bolt securing hand guard to handlebar (rh+lh) M6x1 10
Bolt securing hand guard mounting clamp/stud to M5x0.8 3
handlebar (rh+lh)
Bolt securing front turn signal to hand guard (rh+lh) AF2.9 0.33
Bolt securing hand guard to stud (rh+lh) M5x0.8 3
Bolt securing front turn signal to hand guard (rh+lh) AF3.5 0.33
Bolt securing mirror to pivot mounting (rh+lh) M4 1.1
Mirror pivot mounting bolt (rh+lh) M8 2.6
Bolt securing mirror arm to hand guard (rh+lh) M5 0.6
Sidestand
Sidestand pivot bolt M10x1.25 20
Sidestand pivot safety bolt M10x1.25 25
Bolt securing sidestand assembly to engine M10x1.5 36 LOCK 5 (on front bolt only)
Sidestand sensor bolt M6x1 5
Front sprocket
Pinion lock plate bolt M5x0.8 6* LOCK 2
Pinion cover bolt M6x1 8
Lights and reflectors
Fastener securing numberplate holder half shell to bracket M6x1 10
Fastener joining number plate holder half shells M4x0.7 3
Fastener securing number plate holder to support M6x1 6
Fastener securing number plate holder to support AF6 4
Fastener securing reflector support to number plate holder M6x1 4 For EU model only
Rear turn signal fastener (rh+lh) M6x1 6
Fastener securing light to number plate holder M6x1 1.5
Lower fastener securing rear light to passenger grab rail M5x0.8 2
Fastener securing vibration damper to rear light AF4.5 0.65
Fastener securing to rear light vibration damper bracket to M5x0.8 2
grab handle
Fastener securing passneger grab handle to subframe M8x1.25 18*
Seat to grab handle fastener adjustment M5x0.8 5
TPRT fastener push fit —
Fastener securing headlight to steering head M6x1 10
Fastener securing headlight to headlight support AF5 3
Instruments
Instrument panel fastener M5x0.8 2.5
Front fork
Front axle clamp fastener (rh+lh) M6x1 8.5* GREASE B
Sequence 1-2-1
Fastener clamping forks to bottom yoke (rh+lh) M6x1 8* GREASE B
Sequence 1-2-3-1-2 from
the bottom up
Fastener clamping forks to top yoke (rh+lh) M8x1.25 22* GREASE B
Steering stem nut M35x1 30* GREASE B
Steering limit (rh+lh) M8x1.25 16 LOCK 2 (on nut thread
only)

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 Torque settings

Fastener securing lower headlight fairing support M6x1 10

Electrical system
Fastener securing voltage regulator and horn to frame M6x1 10 LOCK 2
Immobilizer antenna — — Assembled in line apply
LOCK 11 or LOCK 12
between antenna and
commutator cover
Speed sensor fastener M6x1 10
Commutator fastener (rh+lh) M4x0.75 1.3
Fastener securing battery lead and starter motor lead to M6x1 4
contactor
Fastener securing ECU to support AF5 6
Fastener securing earth cable to crankcase M6x1 10 torque to be verified
Fastener securing HC coil to airbox M5x0.8 5
Fastener securing contactor-starter motor cable to starter M6x1 6 torque to be verified
motor
Fastener securing upper hose guides to crankcase M6x1 10
Fastener securing connectors support plate and tank M5x0.8 4
fFastener securing ECU support to frame M8x1.25 10
Ignition switch cover fastener M6x1 7
Fastener securing upper plate to tank for battery rubber M8x1.25 10
retaining strap
Fastener securing lower plate to tank for battery rubber M6x1 8
retaining strap
Fastener securing VC coil to airbox M5x0.8 5
Front brake
Front brake caliper fastener (rh+lh) M10x1.25 45* GREASE B
Fastener securing front brake master cylinder to handlebar M6x1 10 Sequence 1-2-1
Brake bleed valve M6x1 10
Brake hose connection fitting M10x1 23
Bolt securing brake hose guide to bottom yoke M6x1 TBD
Swingarm
Swingarm pivot shaft fastener M48x1.5 75* GREASE B
Chain tensioner eccentric screw M12x1.25 31* GREASE B Sequence 1-2-1
Caliper mounting bracket pin fastener M12x1.25 33* LOCK 5
Chain slider fastener (upper and lower) M6x1 10 LOCK 2
Chain guard fastener (upper and lower) M6x1 10 LOCK 2
Fastener securing heat shield to swingarm M6x1 10 LOCK 2
Rear brake
Brake bleed valve on caliper M6x1 10
Brake hose connection on caliper and master cylinder M10x1 23
Rear brake caliper fastener M8x1.25 25* GREASE B
Rear brake pushrod adjustment M6x1 8
Brake pedal adjuster screw M6x1 2.3
Rear brake pedal light switch fastener M8x1 5
Rear brake master cylinder fastener M6x1 10 LOCK 2
Rear brake fluid reservoir fastener M6x1 2
Handlebar - Clutch lever
Handlebar clamp fastener M8x1.25 25* GREASE B
Sequence 1-2-3-4-3
starting from the side
arrowed
Top yoke clamp fastener M10x1.25 45*
Clutch slave cylinder fastener M6x1 10 Sequence 1-2-3-1

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 Torque settings

Throttle twistgrip fastener M6x1 6 Sequence 1-2-1

Clutch master cylinder fastener M6x1 10 Sequence 1-2-1
Rear suspension
Fastener securing shock absorber/tie-rod to swing arm M10x1.25 45* GREASE B
Fastener securing the shock absorber to suspension rocker M10x1.25 45* GREASE B
arm
Fastener securing tie-rod to suspension rocker arm M10x1.25 45* GREASE B
Fastener securing suspension rocker arm to frame M10x1.25 45* GREASE B
Front mudguard
Mudguard support stud fastener (rh+lh) M8x1.25 12 LOCK 2
Fastener securing mudguard to stud (rh+lh) M6x1 5 LOCK 2
Front fork guard fastener (rh+lh) M5x0.8 3 LOCK 2
Footrests and Levers
Fastener. securing UNIBALL fitting between gearchange M6x1 10 Stake the bolt
lever shaft and link rod and adjustment
Gearchange pedal pivot bolt M8x1.25 23* LOCK 2
Footrest bracket to crankcase fastener (rh+lh) M10x1.5 36
Footrest bracket to swingarm pivot shaft fastener (rh+lh) M12x1.25 30 GREASE B
Fastener securing brake lever spring to rh footrest M6x1 10 LOCK 2
Fastener securing gearchange lever to selector claw M6x1 10 LOCK 1
Fastener securing rubber dampers to front footrest (rh+lh) M6x1 10
Footrest bracket to crankcase fastener (rh+lh) M10x1.5 36
Gearchange pedal pivot bolt M8x1.25 23* LOCK 2
Rear mudguard
Fastener securing rear sprocket gspray guard to bracket M6x1 4.5 GREASE B
Fastener securing spray guard bracket to eccentric M5x0.8 5 LOCK 2
Front wheel
Front wheel axle fastener M25x1.25 63* GREASE B
(apply to thread,
underside of nut and axle)
Fastener securing front brake disc to wheel (rh+lh) M8x1.25 25** LOCK 2
Rear wheel
Rear wheel axle fastener M33x1.5 156* GREASE B
Rear wheel fastener M38x1.5 177* GREASE B
Driving pin fastener M6x1 11* LOCK 2
Rear sprocket fastener M10x1.25 48* GREASE B
Rear brake disc fastener M8x1.25 25** LOCK 2
Fuel tank
Fastener securing BITRON flange and cover to tank M5x0.8 5 LOCK 2
BITRON flange cover fastener M5x0.8 4.5
Fastener securing cable clip to fuel tank M4x0.7 2
Fuel tank filler flange fastener M5x0.8 5
Fastener securing tank to subframe M8x1.25 12
Fuel tank rubber mounting fastener M6x1 10
Fuel tank hose clamp fastener M4x0.7 1 LOCK 1
Fastener securing BITRON flange to tank M5x0.8 5
Exhaust system
Fastener securing manifold to head (HR+VR) M8x1.25 24
CO plug (HR+VR) G1/8 25
Exhaust pipes joining clamp M8x1.25 19
Lambda sensor fastener (HR+VR) M48x1.5 45
Balance pipe to bracket fastener M6x1 10

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 Torque settings

Silencer joint clamp fastener M8x1.25 19

Silencer joint bracket fastener M8x1.25 24
Fastener securing silencers bracket to subframe M8x1.25 24
Fastener securing number plate bracket to silencers M8x1.25 24
Under-silencer spray guard fastener M6x1 10
Fastener securing presilencer stay to bracket M6x1 10
Seat
Fastener securing seat to tank M5x0.8 3
Fastener securing seat adjustment slide M6x1 10
Fastener securing side panel to subframe (rh+lh) M5x0.8 3
Fastener securingsie panel to silencer (rh+lh) M6x1 10
Frame
Nut for engine-frame bolt M12x1.25 60*
Fastener securing rear subframe to frame M8x1.25 35*
Bolt securing rear subframe and tank pin — — JOIN UPPER AND
LOWER BOLTS
Starter switch fastener M6x1 to shear point LOCK 2
Fastener securing seat bracket to frame M6x1 10 LOCK 2
Oil cooler
Connection fitting M14x1.5 23 Counterhold oil cooler
with LOCK 1
Oil cooler fastener M6x1 10
Oil pipe union on cooler with Twin Seal O-ring M16x1.5 18* Lubricate with engine oil
Oil pipe union on crankcase with Twin Seal O-ring M16x1.5 25* Lubricate with engine oil
Fastener securing wire to crankcase M5x0.8 5 LOCK 2
Air Intake - Oil Breather
Union for stepper motor hose M20x1 25
Fastener securing airbox to frame M6x1 10
Oil breather valve hose clamp — 2
Clamp securing hose to airbox — 1.1
Clamp securing throttle body to intake manifold — 1.1
Airbox support pin M5x0.8 5 LOCK 2
Airbox cover fastener M5x0.8 5
Fastener securing sound absorbing panel to airbox AF4.5 1
EVAP system canister filter
Clamp securing throttle body to intake manifold — 2
Fastener securing canister support to bracket M6x1 10
Fastener securing canister support to engine M6x1 10
Fairings
Fastener securing fairing to frame (rh+lh) M5x0.8 3
Fastener securing fairing to tank (rh+lh) M5x0.8 3
Fastener securing tank cover to tank M5x0.8 3
Fastener securing tank cover to tank filler flange M5x0.8 3
Rear grab handle cover fastener M4x0.7 1
Fastener securing headlight fairing to headlight support M5x0.8 3
Fastener securing headlight fairing to headlight support M5x0.8 0.33 Wellnut fastener
bracket
Fastener securing inner mudguard to headlight fairing M5x0.8 3

* dynamic safety-critical point; tightening torque must be within Nm ±5%.

** dynamic safety-critical point.

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 Torque settings

Notes
For product specifications and symbols, see paragraph “Product specifications” (Sect. A 2).

Engine torque settings

Part Thread/pitch (mm) Nm Min. Max. Notes

Oil temperature sensor holder nut M30x1.5 38 34 42 LOCK 4
Camshaft timing belt pulley nut M15x1 71 64 78 GREASE A
Oil temperature sensor M12x1.5 18 16 19 LOCK 4
Cylinder head nut: M10x1.5 GREASE C on face
Stage 1 15 13 17 under cylinder head
Stage 1 30 28 32 and stud threads
Stage 2 48 46 50
Intake flange stud M8x1.25 15 13 17 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Intake manifold nut M8x1.25 23 20 26
Exhaust flange stud M8x1.25 15 13 17 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Timing hole cover M8x10 10 9 11
Bolt securing vertical cylinder oil temperature M8 9 8.5 9.5
sensor
Cylinder head service bolt (aluminium) M6x1 3 2 3 LOCK 5 or TB1375B
Intake/exhaust valve cover bolts M6x1 10 9 11
Valve cover bolts M6x1 10 9 11
Timing belt cover bolt M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Timing belt cover bolt M6x1 10 9 11
Pulley flange retaining bolt M6 10 9 11
Canister plug bolt M6x1 3 2.7 3.2 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Canister nipple (USA version) M6x1 3 2.7 3.2 LOCK 2 or TB1324
CAMOZZI union screw M5x0.8 3 2.7 3.2 LOCK 2 or THREE
BOND 1324
Blow-by valve M40x1.5 34 30 38
Pick-up filter housing plug M32x1.5 42 38 46
Oil pick-up filter M22x1.5 42 38 46
Oil drain plug with magnet M22x1.5 42 38 46 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Oil filter nipple M16x1.5 42 38 46 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Oil pump intake service hole plug M15x1 25 22 28 LOCK 5 or TB1375B
Oil cooler nipple M14x1.5 32 29 35 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Radiator connection blanking plug M14x1.5 32 29 35 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Main oil way plug M10x1.5 Fully seated with tool LOCK 5 or TB1375B
15 13 17
Neutral warning light switch M10x1.5 10 9 11
Cylinder barrel/head stud M10x1.5 25 23 26 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Crankcase bolt M8x1.25
Initial tightening 19 17 21
Final tightening 25 22 28
Crankcase drilled bolt M8x1.25 20 18 22
Crankcase bolt M6x1 9 8.5 9.5
Blow-by valve screw M6x1 10 9 11
Radial pick-up bolt M6x1 10 9 11
Clutch side primary bearing retaining plate bolt M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Gearbox bearing plate bolt M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Adler clutch oil calibration screw M6 6 5 7
Starter motor mounting bolt M6x1 10 9 11
Outer starter motor mounting bolt M6x1 10 9 11

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 Torque settings

Starter motor rear bolt M6x1 10 9 11

Idler gear shaft retaining bolt M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Alternator rotor nut M24x1 270 256 284 LOCK 5
Primary drive gear nut M22x1 190 171 209 GREASE B
Steel/aluminium crankshaft blanking cap M20x1 15 13.5 16.5 TB 1375B
Connecting rod bolt M10x1 Apply GREASE B
Tighten at 50 rpm 35 to thread
2 second pause, then back off through
360° at 30 rpm
20
Stage 2 at 30 rpm
35
Stage 3 at 10 rpm
Tighten through 65° ±1° at 14 rpm 70 to 103
Torque check
Crankshaft grub screw M8x1.25 13 11 15 LOCK 5 or TB1375B
Drilled crankshaft grub screw M8x1.25 13 11 15 LOCK 5 or TB1375B
Selector drum locating screw M16x1.5 30 27 33
Gear detent lever bolt M8x1.25 18 16 20 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Selector claw bolt M8x1.25 25 22 28
Selector claw locator nut M6x1 10 9 11
Selector claw bolt M6x1 9 8.5 9.5
Camshaft pulley retaining nut M15x1 71 64 78 GREASE A
Timing belt driveshaft gear nut M14x1 55 50 60 GREASE A
Tensioner pulley retaining bolt M8x1.25 26 23 29
Idler pulley retaining bolt M8x1 20 18 22 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Plastic cover bolt M6x1 10 9 11
Carbon fibre cover bolts M6x1 6 5.5 6.5
Wet clutch centre nut M25x1.5 190 180 200 GREASE B
Oil filler plug M22x1.5 5 5 6
Oil filler plug M20x2.5 5 5 6
Oil way blanking plug M10x1 15 13 17 LOCK 5 or TB1375B
Oil pressure sensor M10x1 19 17 21
Clutch cover bolt M6x1 10 9 11
Clutch cover bolt with cable guide M6x1 9.5 8.5 9
Wet clutch cover screw M6x1 9.5 8.5 9
Wet clutch spring screw M6x1 10 9 11
Alternator cover inspection plug M15x1 20 18 22 TB 1215
Pick-up sensor inspection bolt M12x1 15 13 17 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Spark plug M12x1.25 20 18 22
Alternator-side crankcase cover bolt M6x1 10 9 11
Inspection cover bolt M6x1 4.5 4.5 6
Alternator stator retaining bolt M6x1 10 9 11 LOCK 2 or TB1324
Alternator rotor/flywheel bolt M6x1 13 11 15 LOCK 5
Stator wiring clamp bracket bolt M5x0.8 5 5 7
By-pass pump cap M15x1 25 22 28 LOCK 5 or TB1375B
Reducer bush M10x1 - - - LOCK 5 or TB1375B
Oil pump retaining bolt M8x1.25 26 23 29
Oil pump retaining bolt M6x1 10 9 11
Oil pump assembly bolt M6x1 10 9 11

Notes
For product specifications and symbols, see paragraph “Product specifications” (Sect. A 2).

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 Service tools

4 - Service tools
Parts catalogue

Workshop service tools

Specific tools for the engine

Code No Description

88700.5644 Socket wrench for camshaft pulley nut

88713.3218 Timing belt roller tool

88713.2423 Torque wrench for tightening front sprocket nut

88713.2676 Wrench for tightening cylinder head nuts

88713.2103 Stand for cylinder head assembly

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 Service tools

98112.0002 Timing degree wheel

88713.0123 Timing check tool

DDS (Ducati Diagnosis System) + cylinder vacuum measuring

97900.0215
kit

88713.0137 Front sprocket holding wrench

88765.1581 Valve lift gauge

88713.2878 Spacer and fork feeler gauge 0.2/0.3 mm

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 Service tools

88713.2783 Tool for fitting spring and closing rocker

88713.2282 Pulley holding tool

88713.2011 Crankshaft holding tool

88700.5749 Crankcase assembly cap

88713.3334 Plate for gear selector fork positioning

88713.1749 Puller for drive pulley and cover

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 Service tools

88765.1297 TDC gauge

88713.2092 Primary drive gears puller

88713.1010 Exhaust gases pick-up connector

88713.2036 Alternator holding tool for tightening nut

88713.2442 Valve seal installer Ø 7

88713.2906 Oil filter cartridge wrench

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 Service tools

88713.2556 Clutch drum holding tool

88713.2591 Clutch screw

88713.3220 Engine repair bench

Parts catalogue

Workshop service tools

Specific tools for the frame

Code No Description

88713.2409 Swingarm ball bearing installer

88713.1058 Wrench for steering stem nut

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Service tools

88713.1062 Tool for installing steering head bearings

88713.3203 MARZOCCHI fork disassembly rod

88713.1068 Tool for installation of swingarm roller bearings

88713.1071 Drift to drive rocker arm needle rollers

88713.1038 Wrench for adjustment of the eccentric hub

88713.1073 Rear wheel balancing tool

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Service tools

88713.1344 Chain assembly tool

8000.70139 Front wheel axle wrench

88713.3204 Tool for overhaul of MARZOCCHI forks - oil seal installer

88713.1072 Drift to install half bearing in bottom yoke

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 D - Impianto elettrico

0D - Impianto elettrico
1 - Preliminary checks 3
Running-in precautions 3
Pre-ride checks 4

2 - Starting - Engine warmup 5

Starting the engine 5

3 - Routine maintenance table 6

Programmed maintenance plan: operations to be carried out by the dealer 6
Programmed maintenance plan: operations to be carried out by the customer 7

4 - Maintenance operations 8
Checking the engine oil level 8
Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge 9
Checking valve clearances 12
Changing and cleaning the air filters 14
Changing the brake fluid 17
Draining the brake circuits 20
Filling the brake circuits 22
Changing the clutch fluid 24
Draining the clutch hydraulic circuit 25
Filling the clutch circuit 27
Adjusting the steering head bearings 29
Adjusting the clutch lever and front brake lever 30
Adjusting the chain tension 31
Checking brake pad wear and changing brake pads 33
Adjusting the throttle cables 37
Adjusting the position of the gearchange and rear brake pedals 39
Adjusting the rear shock absorber 40

5 - Diagnostic instruments 42
Description of the Ducati Diagnostic System instrument 43
Tester power supply 46
DDS tester 50
Checking and adjusting timing belt tension 51
Self-learning throttle position sensor (TPS) 55
Adjusting the idle speed 59
Checking the engine oil pressure 64
Cylinder compression test 68

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 D - Impianto elettrico

Fuel pressure test 71

Immobilizer override procedure 74
Guided diagnosis 77
Testing the battery charging system 80
Deactivating the “service” indication on the instrument panel 83
Icons table 87

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 Preliminary checks

1 - Preliminary checks
Running-in precautions

Maximum engine speed

Rpm limits to be observed during the running-in period and in normal use:
1 up to 1000 km;
2 from 1000 to 2500 km.

Maximum engine speed up to 1000 km

During the first 1000 km, keep an eye on the rev counter. The engine speed must not exceed
5500-6000 rpm. During the first hours of riding, it is advisable to run the engine at varying load
and rpm, while keeping within the recommended limit.
For this reason, roads with numerous bends and hilly areas are ideal for running in the engine,
brakes and suspension. For the first 100 km use the brakes gently. Avoid sudden or prolonged
braking. This will allow the friction material on the brake pads to bed in against the brake discs. To
allow all the mechanical moving parts of the motorcycle to adapt to one another and above all to
avoid adversely affecting the life of basic engine parts, it is advisable to avoid harsh acceleration
and not to run the engine at high rpm for too long, especially uphill. It is also advisable to check the
drive chain frequently and ensure that it is lubricated as required.

Maximum engine speed from 1000 to 2500 km

During this stage you can use more of your engine’s power, being careful, however, never to
exceed 7000 rpm. Keeping strictly to these recommendations will extend the life of your engine
and reduce the likelihood of overhauls or tune-ups.

Important
Throughout the running-in period, be careful to stick to the recommended maintenance schedule
and periodic service intervals indicated in the warranty booklet. Failure to follow these instructions
shall release Ducati Motor Holding S.p.A. from all liability for any engine damage or shorter engine
life.

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 Preliminary checks

Pre-ride checks

Warning
Failure to carry out these checks before riding may result in damage to the motorcycle and serious
injury to the rider.

Before starting, check the following points:

Fuel level in the tank

Check the fuel level in the tank. Fill the tank if needed (Sect. C 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids).

Engine oil level

Check the oil level in the sump through the sight glass. Top up with recommended oil if necessary
(Sect. C 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids).

Brake and clutch fluid

Check the fluid levels in the respective reservoirs.

Tyres
Check tyre pressure and condition (Sect. C 1.1, Front wheel/Rear wheel).

Controls
Operate the brake, clutch, throttle and gear change controls (levers, pedals and twistgrip) to check
that they function correctly.

Lights and indicators

Make sure the lights, indicators and horn work properly. Replace any burnt-out bulbs with new
bulbs of the same rating (Sect. C 1.1, Lights/instrument panel).

Key locks
Check that the fuel filler cap, pillion seat lock, and right-hand side compartment lock are securely
closed (Sect. E 2, Fairings).

Sidestand
Make sure the sidestand operates smoothly (Sect. P 6, Checking the fuses) and is in the correct
position (Sect. H 5, Refitting the sidestand).

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 Starting - Engine warmup

2 - Starting - Engine warmup

Starting the engine
This motorcycle is equipped with an automatic starter (stepper motor). This allows automation of
the engine warmup procedure. For information on the operation of the stepper motor, see
Section M 3, Stepper motor.
Turn the ignition switch to ON.

Check the neutral indicator light N (3), and the red oil pressure warning light (4) on the instrument
panel are both illuminated (Sect. P 7, Instrument panel system) and that the engine stop switch (1)
is in the position (RUN), then press the starter button (2).
Allow the engine to start on its own, without turning the throttle twistgrip.

Important
The oil pressure warning light should go out a few seconds after the engine has started. If the light
stays on, stop the engine and check the oil level (Sect. P 7, Instrument panel system).
Never start the engine when the oil pressure is too low.

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 Starting - Engine warmup

Important
Do not run the engine at high speed when cold. Allow some time for the oil to warm up and reach
all points that need lubricating.

Warning
The engine can be started with the sidestand down and the gearbox in neutral. When starting the
engine with a gear engaged, pull in the clutch lever (in this case the sidestand must be in the raised
position).

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 Routine maintenance table

3 - Routine maintenance table

Programmed maintenance plan: operations to be carried out by the dealer

km x1000 1 12 24 36 48 60
List of operations with frequency
miles x1000 0.6 7.5 15 22.5 30 37.5
(distance or time interval*)
Months 6 12 24 36 48 60
Change the engine oil • • • • • •
Change the engine oil filter • • • • • •
Clean the engine oil pick-up filter •
Check the engine oil pressure • •
Check/adjust the valve clearances (1) • • • • •
Check the tension of the timing belts (1) • • •
Renew the timing belts • •
Check and clean the spark plugs. Renew if necessary • •
Check and clean the air filter (1) • • •
Change the air filter • •
Check throttle body synchronisation and idle speed setting (1) • • • • •
Check the brake and clutch fluid levels • • • • • •
Change the clutch and brake fluid •
Check and adjust the brake and clutch control cables • • • • •
Check/lubricate the throttle/choke cables • • • • •
Check tyre pressure and wear • • • • • •
Check the brake pads. Renew if necessary • • • • • •
Check the steering head bearings • •
Check the drive chain tension, alignment and lubrication • • • • • •
Check the clutch disc pack. Renew if necessary (1) • • • • •
Check the rear wheel cush drive • •
Check the wheel hub bearings • •
Check the indicators and lighting • • • • •
Check tightness of nuts and bolts securing the engine to the frame • • • • •
Check the sidestand • • • • •
Check tightness of the front wheel axle nut • • • • •
Check tightness of the rear wheel axle nut • • • • •
Check the external fuel hoses • • • • •
Change the front fork oil •
Check the forks and rear shock absorber for oil leaks • • • • •
Check the front sprocket retaining bolts • • • • •
General lubrication and greasing • • • • •
Check and recharge the battery • • • • •
Road test the motorcycle • • • • • •
General cleaning • • • • •
* Service operation to be carried out in accordance with the specified distance or time intervals (km, miles or
months), whichever occurs first.
(1) Operation to be carried out only at the specified distance intervals.

Programmed maintenance plan: operations to be carried out by the customer

km x1000 1
List of operations with frequency
miles x1000 0.6
(distance or time interval*)
Months 6
Checking the engine oil level •
Check the brake and clutch fluid levels •
Check tyre pressure and wear •
Check the drive chain tension and lubrication •
Check the brake pads. If necessary, contact your dealer to renew pads •

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 Routine maintenance table

* Service operation to be carried out in accordance with the specified distance or time intervals (km, miles or
months), whichever occurs first.

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 Maintenance operations

4 - Maintenance operations
Checking the engine oil level
Check the engine oil level through the sight glass (1) on the right-hand side of the oil sump.
Stop the engine and allow a few minutes for the oil to settle to a steady level. Check the level with the motorcycle
perfectly vertical and with the engine warm (but not running).
The oil must be between the MIN and MAX marks. If the level is low, top it up.
Remove the filler cap (2) and top up with the recommended oil.
Refit the cap (2).

If the level is below the bottom mark, top up with SHELL Advance Ultra 4 engine oil.

Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge

Notes
Change the oil when the engine is hot (but with the engine stopped). In these conditions the oil is more fluid and will
drain more rapidly and completely.

Remove the drain plug (3) with gasket (A) from the oil sump and allow the oil to drain off.

Warning
Dispose of oil and/or filter cartridges in compliance with environmental protection regulations.

Remove any metallic deposits from the end of the magnetic drain plug (3). Refit the drain plug complete with gasket
(A) to the sump.

Tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Remove the oil sump filter cartridge (4) using service tool 88713.2906.

Important
Dispose of the used cartridge, do not attempt to reutilise it.

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 Maintenance operations

Fit a new cartridge (4) using service tool 88713.2906: lubricate the seal with engine oil.

Notes
It is advisable to fill the filter cartridge (4) with engine oil before installing it: this enables the recommended oil level
to be maintained without topping up.

Screw the filter into place and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings), using service
tool 88713.2906.

Every two oil changes, clean the oil pickup gauze filter.
Remove the horizontal cylinder exhaust pipe (B) by unscrewing nuts (C) and clamp (D).

Unscrew the outer plug (6) with the seal (5).

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 Maintenance operations

Unscrew the filter (7) and withdraw it from the crankcase.

Clean the filter with petrol and compressed air. Take care not to damage the gauze.
Replace the pick-up filter (7), fit the seal (5) to the plug (6) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine
torque settings).

Remove the filler cap (2) and fill with oil of the recommended type (Sect. C 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids) up to
the MAX line in the sight glass.
Refit the filler cap (2). Run the engine at idle speed for a few minutes.

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 Maintenance operations

Check for oil leaks. Check that the oil pressure light on the instrument panel switches off a few seconds after
the engine starts. If not, switch off the engine and trace the fault.
After a few minutes, check the oil level again and top up to the MAX level line, if necessary.
Refit all parts removed.

Checking valve clearances

In order to check the valve clearances, it is necessary to gain access to the four valve covers on the cylinder heads
and then remove the parts listed below.

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat E 3, Removal of the seat
Remove the side fairings E 2, Removal of the side fairings
Remove the battery P 2, Removal of the battery
Remove the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Remove the fuel tank L 2, Removal of the fuel tank
Remove the oil cooler N 2.2, Removal of the oil cooler
Remove the valve covers N 4.3, Removal of the valve covers

Remove the inspection cover on the alternator side of the crankcase, insert the handle of service tool 88713.0123 in
the holes of the alternator-side crankcase cover in order to rotate the crankshaft to bring the valve being checked to
its rest position.
With the valve in the rest position, slide a feeler gauge between the opening rocker and the opening shim to measure
the clearance.
The clearances must be within the specified limits:

Opening rocker arm

Intake: (A)
Adjusting clearance 0.10 to 0.15 mm
Checking clearance 0.10 to 0.15 mm
Exhaust: (A)
Adjusting clearance 0.10 to 0.15 mm
Checking clearance 0.10 to 0.15 mm

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 Maintenance operations

With the valve in the rest position, slide a feeler gauge between the closing rocker arm and the closing shim to
measure the clearance:

Closing rocker arm

Intake: (B)
Adjusting clearance 0 to 0.05 mm
Checking clearance 0 to 0.05 mm
Exhaust: (B)
Adjusting clearance 0 to 0.05 mm
Checking clearance 0 to 0.05 mm

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 Maintenance operations

If the measured clearances are outside the prescribed limits, replace the opening and/or closing shim, as described in
the paragraph “Removal of the rocker arms, shims and valves” (Sect. N 4.4), with one of suitable height to obtain the
specified clearance.

Notes
Replacement opening shims are available in sizes ranging from 1.8 to 3.45 mm, while closing shims are available in
sizes from 2.2 to 4.5. Each shim is marked with its size.

Refit all the removed parts in the reverse order to that in which they were removed.

Changing and cleaning the air filters

The air filter must be renewed at the intervals indicated in the “Routine maintenance table” (Sect. D 3).

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat and the side panels E 3, Removal of the seat/Removal of
the rear side panels
Remove the battery P 2, Removal of the battery
Remove the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Remove the fuel tank L 2, Removal of the fuel tank

Unscrew the bolts (4) and remove the pad (5).

Unscrew the six bolts (1) securing the airbox cover (2).
Remove the cover (2).

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 Maintenance operations

Remove the filter cartridge (3).

The filter cartridge can be cleaned with a jet of compressed air or renewed as necessary.

Important
A clogged air filter will reduce air intake and engine power, increase fuel consumption and cause a build up of deposits
on the spark plugs. Do not run the engine without the air filter. This would draw foreign material present in the air
into the engine and could damage the engine.

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 Maintenance operations

Install the cartridge (3) in its housing (A) in the airbox cover and replace all the removed parts; tighten the bolts (1)
to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings): in the sequence 1-2-3-4-5-6.

Important
If the motorcycle is used in very damp or dusty conditions, the air filter cartridge must be changed more frequently.

Changing the brake fluid

Warning
Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. In addition, it is very harmful in contact with the skin or
with the eyes; in the event of accidental contact wash the affected area with abundant running water.

Changing the fluid in the front brake circuit

Loosen the bolts (1) and remove the cover and membrane from the front brake fluid reservoir.
Siphon the brake fluid from the reservoir (A).
Fill the reservoir (A) with new clutch fluid up to the MAX mark.
Operate the clutch lever two or three times until the circuit is pressurized.
Hold the lever pulled in towards the handgrip.

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 Maintenance operations

Attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (2) and insert the other end of the tubing in a
container placed on the floor.
Loosen the bleed valve (2) to allow fluid to escape.

Warning
While filling the circuit, keep the fluid level above the MIN mark at all times to prevent the formation of air bubbles in
the circuit.

Allow the fluid to flow from the bleed valve (2) until it changes colour.
Tighten the bleed valve (2) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) and top up the reservoir fluid
level.

Notes
Repeat this operation on each brake caliper.
Replace the cover and membrane from the front brake fluid reservoir and refit the bolts (1).

Changing the rear brake circuit fluid

Unscrew the cover (1) and remove internal membrane (2) of rear brake fluid reservoir (A).
Siphon the brake fluid from the reservoir (A).
Fill the reservoir (A) with new clutch fluid up to the MAX mark.

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 Maintenance operations

Operate the brake pedal two or three times to pressurize the circuit.
Hold the pedal pressed down.

Attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (2) and insert the other end of the tubing in a
container placed on the floor.

Warning
While filling the circuit, keep the fluid level above the MIN mark at all times to prevent the formation of air bubbles in
the circuit.

Allow the fluid to flow from the bleed valve (2) until it changes colour.
Tighten the bleed valve (2) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) and top up the reservoir fluid
level.

Replace the cover (1) of the rear brake fluid reservoir (A).

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 Maintenance operations

Draining the brake circuits

Warning
Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. In addition, it is very harmful in contact with the skin or
with the eyes; in the event of accidental contact wash the affected area with abundant running water.

Undo the screws (1) and remove the cover and membrane from the front brake fluid reservoir (A).

Unscrew the cover (3) of the rear brake fluid reservoir (B).

Connect a commercially available brake bleeder to the bleed valve (4) or (5).

Notes
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial brake bleeding tool.

Open the bleed valve (4) or (5) and pump with the bleeder until no more fluid emerges.
If you do not have a bleeder available, attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (4) or (5) and
insert the other end of the tubing in a container of old brake fluid placed on the floor.

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 Maintenance operations

Unscrew the bleed valve by a 1/4 turn.

Operate the brake lever (or pedal) until all the fluid has drained out.
Repeat this operation for each brake caliper.

Filling the brake circuits

Warning
Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. In addition, it is very harmful in contact with the skin or
with the eyes; in the event of accidental contact wash the affected area with abundant running water.

Fill the reservoirs (A) and (B) with the recommended fluid (Sect. C 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids) from a
previously unopened container.

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Important
During the following operation, the fluid level must remain topped up at all times. The end of the transparent plastic
tubing must remain immersed in the discharged fluid at all times.

Operate the brake lever (or pedal) several times to allow the fluid to reach all points of the circuit and expel any air.

Connect the bleed tool to the caliper bleed valve (4) or (5).

Notes
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial brake bleeding tool.

Open the bleed valve (4) or (5) and pump with the bleeder. Make sure that the reservoir level does not fall below the
MIN mark.
Repeat the bleeding operation until the fluid emerging from the tube is completely free of air bubbles.
Tighten the bleed valve (4) or (5) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
If you do not have a brake bleeder available, connect a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve as
outlined in the draining procedure.

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Open the bleed valve (4) or (5) by a 1/4 turn and operate the brake lever (or pedal) several times until the fluid starts
to emerge from the bleed valve.
Pull the lever or depress the pedal fully and loosen the bleed valve by at least a 1/4 turn.
Wait a few seconds, then release the lever or pedal gradually while simultaneously closing the bleed valve.

Important
Do not release the brake lever (or pedal) until the bleed valve has been fully tightened.

Repeat the bleeding operation until the fluid emerging from the plastic tube is free of air bubbles.
Bleed air from the bleed valves one at a time.
Tighten the bleed valve (4) or (5) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings). Replace the dust cap.
Top up the fluid in the reservoir to the correct level and refit all removed parts.

Changing the clutch fluid

Warning
Clutch fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. In addition, it is very harmful in contact with the skin or
with the eyes; in the event of accidental contact wash the affected area with abundant running water.

Undo the screws (1) and remove the cover and membrane from the clutch fluid reservoir (A).
Siphon the brake fluid from the reservoir (A).
Fill the reservoir (A) with new clutch fluid up to the MAX mark.
Operate the clutch lever two or three times until the circuit is pressurized.
Hold the lever pulled in towards the handgrip.

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Attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (2) and insert the other end of the tubing in a
container placed on the floor.
Loosen the bleed valve (2) to allow fluid to escape.

Warning
While filling the circuit, keep the fluid level above the MIN mark at all times to prevent the formation of air bubbles in
the circuit.

Allow the fluid to flow from the bleed valve (2) until it changes colour.
Tighten the bleed valve (2) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) and top up the reservoir fluid
level.

Draining the clutch hydraulic circuit

Warning
Clutch fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. It is also very harmful if it comes into contact with the
skin or with the eyes; in the event of accidental contact, wash the affected area with abundant running water.

Remove the dust cap to expose the bleed valve (2).

Connect a clutch circuit bleeding tool to the clutch slave cylinder bleed valve (2).

Notes
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial clutch bleeding tool.

Open the bleed valve and pump with the bleeding tool until no more fluid emerges.
If you do not have a bleeding tool available, attach a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (2) and
insert the other end of the tubing in a container of old clutch fluid placed on the floor.

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Unscrew the bleed valve by a 1/4 turn.

Undo the bolts (1) and remove the cover and membrane from the reservoir (A).
Operate the clutch lever until all the fluid has been expelled.

To help drain the circuit fully, unscrew the three retaining bolts (3) and remove the clutch slave cylinder from the
engine.

Remove the clutch slave cylinder (4) taking care not to damage the internal O-ring (5).
Push in the piston to force out all the fluid from inside the slave cylinder.

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Refit the clutch slave cylinder and tighten the retaining bolts (3) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings).
Tighten the bleed valve to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings). Replace the dust cap.

Filling the clutch circuit

Warning
Clutch fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. It is also very harmful if it comes into contact with the
skin or with the eyes; in the event of accidental contact, wash the affected area with abundant running water.

Fill the reservoir with the recommended fluid (Sect. C 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids) from a previously unopened
container.

Important
During the following operation, the fluid level must remain topped up at all times. The end of the transparent plastic
tubing must remain immersed in the discharged fluid at all times.

Operate the clutch lever several times to fill the circuit and expel any air.

Connect the bleed tool to the bleed valve (2).

Notes
Follow the manufacturer's instructions when using a commercial clutch bleeding tool.

Open the bleed valve (2) and pump with the bleeding tool. Make sure that the reservoir level does not fall below the
MIN mark.
Repeat the bleeding operation until the fluid emerging from the plastic tube connected to the bleed valve (2) is free of
air bubbles.
If you do not have a bleeding tool available, connect a length of transparent plastic tubing to the bleed valve (2) as
outlined in the draining procedure.

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Open the bleed valve (2) a 1/4 turn and operate the clutch lever several times until the fluid starts to emerge from
the bleed valve (2).
Pull the lever fully in and then open the bleed valve by at least a 1/4 turn.
Wait for a few seconds, then release the lever gradually while simultaneously closing the bleed valve (2).

Important
Do not release the clutch lever until the bleed valve has been fully tightened.

Repeat the bleeding operation until the fluid emerging from the plastic tube is free of air bubbles.
Tighten the bleed valve (2) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) and replace the dust cap.
Fill up to 3 mm above the MIN level mark on the reservoir.
Replace the cap with the membrane and tighten down the screws (1).

Adjusting the steering head bearings

Excessive handlebar play or the forks shaking in the steering head indicate that the play in the steering head bearings
requires adjustment. Proceed as follows.
Unscrew the four bolts (1), remove the single clamp (2) and withdraw the handlebar (3) from the top yoke,
positioning it out of the way so it does not hinder subsequent operations.

Slacken the clamp bolts (4) securing the top yoke to both fork legs.

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Loosen the clamp bolt (5) that holds the steering tube to the top yoke.
Using service tool no. 88713.1058, turn the nut (6) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Tighten all previously loosened bolts to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Reposition the handlebar, fit the clamp (2) and tighten the four clamp bolts (1) to the specified torque
(Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) in the sequence 1-2-3-4-1-2, as shown in the figure.

Turn the handlebar to full lock and check that the bearing play is correct.

Adjusting the clutch lever and front brake lever

The clutch lever (1) is fitted with a span adjuster (2) which serves to alter the distance of the lever from the
handlebar.
To adjust the span, hold the lever (1) fully forward away from the handlebar and turn the adjuster (2) to one of the
four preset positions: position 1 corresponds to the maximum distance between lever and grip, while position 4
corresponds to the minimum distance.
The position of the front brake lever (3) can be adjusted in the same way.
When the clutch lever (1) is operated, drive from the engine to the gearbox and the rear wheel is disengaged. Correct
use of the clutch lever is very important in all riding situations, especially when moving off.

Warning
Any adjustment of clutch and brake levers must only be carried out when motorcycle is stationary.

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Adjusting the chain tension

Slowly move the motorcycle to determine the position at which the chain is most taut.
Place the motorcycle on its sidestand and measure the freeplay on the bottom run of the chain in correspondence with
the front end of the lower chain guard. Press down on the chain and release it, and check that the distance between
the edge of the aluminium swingarm and the centre of the chain pin is 37 to 39 mm, as indicated on the label on the
swingarm.

If not, adjust the chain tension as follows:

loosen the nuts (1) that secure the chain guard (2) to the support bracket in order to access and loosen the bolts (3)
securing the rear hub to the swingarm.

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Apply an extension bar to the wrench supplied and insert the tooth of the wrench in the eccentric hub.
Rotate the eccentric hub to obtain the correct chain tension. Rotate the hub clockwise to tighten the chain or anti-
clockwise to slacken it (as viewed from chain side of the bike).

Important
During this operation make sure that the axis of the wheel axle (R) remains at all times below the axis of the eccentric
hub (E).

Lubricate the undersides of the heads and the threads of the bolts (3) with the recommended grease, then gradually
tighten them to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) in the sequence 1-2-1.

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Warning
For the safety of the rider and passenger, it is essential that the eccentric hub bolts are correctly tightened.

After adjusting the chain tension, reposition the chain guard (2) making sure that its outer edges are equidistant from
the chain.
Tighten the nuts (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) and refit the rear wheel (Sect. G 4,
Refitting the rear wheel).

Checking brake pad wear and changing brake pads

Warning
Brake fluid will damage painted surfaces if spilled on them. It can also be very harmful if it comes into contact with
the skin or with the eyes; in the event of accidental contact, wash the affected area with abundant running water.

Important
On handing over the motorcycle after changing the brake pads, inform the customer that the front brake must be
used gently for the first 100 km to allow the pads to bed in completely.

Checking front brake pad wear

Check that the wear indicator groove in the friction material of the pads (1) is visible.

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Important
If either of the pads is worn, both pads must be renewed as a set.

Change the brake pads as follows.

Remove the cotter pin (2) from the pad retaining pins.
Withdraw the pad retaining pins (3) from the outside.
Remove the clip (4) from between the two caliper halves.
Force the caliper pistons back into their bores by forcing the old brake pads apart.
Withdraw the used pads (1) from the calipers.

Notes
Change pads that have a shiny or “vitrified” appearance.
Refit the pads as follows.
Insert the new pads and clip (4).
Insert the retaining pins (3) from the exterior of the caliper and secure them with the cotter pins (2).

Operate the brake lever repeatedly so that the pads are firmly bedded in against the disc by the force of the brake
fluid.
Check that the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir is above the MIN mark. If necessary, top up as
follows. Turn the handlebar so that the reservoir is level.
Unscrew the bolts (5) and remove the reservoir cover.

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Remove the inner membrane from the reservoir.

Top up to the MAX level with the specified brake fluid.
Refit all previously removed components.

Checking rear brake pad wear

Remove the bolts (1) and remove the front brake calipers from the forks. Check that the wear indicator groove (A) in
the friction material of the pads (4) is visible.

Important
If either of the pads is worn, both pads must be renewed as a set.

Change the brake pads as follows.

Remove the cotter pin (1) (on the inner side of the caliper) from the pad retaining pin (2). Withdraw the pad retaining
pin (2) towards the outside.
Remove the clip (3) from between the two caliper halves.

Force the caliper pistons back into their bores by forcing the brake pads apart. Remove the worn pads.

Notes
Change pads that have a shiny or “vitrified” appearance.

Insert the new pads and clip (3). Fit the retaining pin (2) from the outer side and secure it with the cotter pin (1),
positioning the lip (A) so that it faces the wheel.

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Operate the brake pedal repeatedly so that the pads are bedded in against the disc by the force of the brake fluid.
Check that the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir is between the MIN and MAX marks. If not, unscrew
the reservoir cover (4) and top up with the recommended brake fluid.

Notes
If it proves difficult to change the brake pads, first remove the caliper from the motorcycle (Sect. G 4, Removal of the
rear wheel).

Warning
As the brake calipers are components of vital importance to the safety of the motorcycle, refer to the instructions in
Section G 3, Removal of the front brake system, Section G 6, Removal of the rear brake system, and in particular, on
reassembly, take care to tighten the caliper bolts to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Adjusting the throttle cables

The throttle cable should have freeplay of 2 to 4 mm (measured in terms of rotation of the twistgrip) in all steering
positions.

For larger adjustments of the throttle cable, use the adjuster (2) located on the right-hand side of the throttle body.
Remove the cap, loosen the lock nut (3) and turn the adjuster (2) to obtain the required free travel.
Tighten the lock nut and replace the cap.

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Adjust travel of the cold start control cable by turning the control lever on the handlebar to its maximum position and
checking that plate (4) is located against the travel limit stop.

The condition of the outer throttle cables should be checked at regular intervals. The outer cables should show no
signs of kinking or cracking.
Lubricate the ends of the throttle control cables with the prescribed grease periodically to ensure they run freely.
Operate the control to check that the inner cable slides smoothly inside the outer cable: if you feel excessive
resistance or stiffness, renew the cable.
To lubricate throttle cable, undo the two bolts (6) and remove the upper half of the twistgrip housing (5).
Grease the end (A) of the cable and the race.
Replace the upper half of the twistgrip housing (5) very carefully, with the throttle cable correctly seated in slide (B).
Tighten the bolts (6).

Adjusting the position of the gearchange and rear brake pedals

The position of the gearchange and rear brake pedals in relation to the footrests can be adjusted to suit the preferred
riding position.

Gearchange pedal
To adjust the position of the gearchange pedal, proceed as follows.
Use an open ended spanner to hold the rod (1) on flat (A) and slacken off lock nut (2).
Turn the screw (4) to detach the rod (3) from the gear change lever.
Turn the rod (3) to move the gear change pedal to the position.
Tighten the bolt (4) to secure the gear change lever to the rod (3).

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Tighten the lock nut (2) against the rod (1).

Rear brake pedal

Loosen the locknut (5).
Turn the pedal travel adjustment bolt (6) until the pedal is in the desired position: the standard position is shown in
the above drawing.
Tighten the locknut (5) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Operate the pedal by hand and check that there is approximately 1.5 to 2 mm of free travel before the brake begins
to operate.

If not, adjust the length of the master cylinder pushrod as follows.

Slacken off the locknut (7) on the pushrod.
Screw the pushrod (8) into the clevis (9) to increase the freeplay, or screw it out to reduce it.
Tighten the locknut (7) and recheck the pedal freeplay.

Adjusting the rear shock absorber

The shock absorber has external adjusters that enable you to adjust the suspension to suit the load on the motorcycle.
The adjuster (1) located on the right-hand side, where the lower end of the shock absorber is attached to the
swingarm, controls rebound damping.
Turn the adjuster (1) clockwise to stiffen the damping H and anti-clockwise to soften it S.

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Adjuster nuts (2) and (3), located at the top end of the shock absorber, serve to adjust the preload of the outer spring.
To adjust the spring preload, unscrew the upper adjuster nut (3) using a pin wrench. Screw the adjuster nut (3) in or
out to respectively increase or reduce the pre-load.

STANDARD setting from the fully closed position (clockwise):

- unscrew the adjuster (1) by 12±2 clicks (rebound adjustment);
- spring preload: 23 mm.

Warning
To turn the preload adjuster nuts, use only a specific tool and take care, otherwise the wrench pins may slip off the
nut. This could injure your hands. Never use a wrench with a too small pin or with a too short handle.
Standard length of the preloaded spring on the shock absorber with the rear wheel raised off the ground: 166
±1.5 mm.

Warning
The shock absorber is filled with high-pressure gas and can cause injuries if inexpertly dismantled.

Important
If the motorcycle is to be ridden with a pillion rider and luggage, we recommend setting the rear shock absorber
spring preload to the maximum to ensure the best handling and proper ground clearance at all times. It may also be

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necessary to adjust the rebound damping accordingly.

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5 - Diagnostic instruments

1 97900.0215 DDS (Ducati Diagnosis System) + manifold vacuum measuring kit

2 97900.0227 Power and diagnostic cable D607
3 97900.0222 Power and diagnostic cable 1060838 (Measurement Module)
4 97900.0218 Vacuum sensor
5 552.1.039.1A Pressure sensor
6 97900.0220 Pressure/vacuum pipe
7 97900.0221 Pipe fitting
8 97900.0228 Battery socket adapter
9 814.1.114.1A Oil pressure connector
10 514.1.032.1A Auxiliary test cable
11 552.1.038.1A Cylinder compression cable with M10 connector
12 875.1.065.1A Oil pressure pipe
13 97900.0230 Mains power adapter
14 97900.0224 Mains power adapter
15 88765.1371 Belt tensioning sensor
16 88765.1374 Bracket for belt tensioning sensor
17 590.1.189.1A Fuel pressure test pipe
18 97900.0234 Ammeter clamp

Parts catalogue

DDS tester
Workshop service tools

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Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Description of the Ducati Diagnostic System instrument

The Ducati Diagnostic System (DDS) is used for diagnosis of the injection-ignition system via a serial connection. The
system is also equipped with functions to test various devices on the motorcycle. The DDS tester can be used to
measure current and voltage on any electrical device, to perform tests on individual components and to measure
pressure and temperature values.
The DDS tester (1) is comprised of a palmtop display unit (A), a BBAD self-diagnosis module (B) and a display
memory card (C).

The touch-screen display unit (A) serves for both data display and input, using the stylus housed on the side of the
unit.
The self-diagnosis module (B) enables communication between the DDS tester (1) and the motorcycle’s on-board
electronic control unit (ECU).
The user interface software resides in the display memory card (C) which is housed in the palm-top display unit (A).
The display unit is equipped with two connection panels: one at the top of the instrument and one at the bottom.
The top connection panel has 6 connection sockets with the following functions:
- one VGA output (D);
- one port for connection of the measurement module (E);

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- one RS232 serial port for connection of peripheral devices (COM1) (F);
- a second RS232 serial port for connection of peripheral devices (COM2) (G);
- two generic USB ports (USB1 and USB2) (H).

The bottom connection panel has 3 connection sockets with the following functions:
- one USB port (L);
- one power connection socket (M);
- one diagnostics connection socket (N).

You can connect a printer to the DDS tester (1) to print test reports: connect the printer to the serial port (COM1) (F)
located on the top connection panel of the tester (1).

Technical data
Power supply:
- from the mains - 220 V;
- from the motorcycle battery - 12 V.

Components supplied with the DDS tester

The DDS tester (1) is supplied in a kit together with the following items:
Rechargeable DDS battery
Battery charger
Mains power adapter
USB memory card reader
Power and diagnostic cable complete with fuse
CD containing DDS installation software for PC
USB cable
Belt tension sensor.

Tester power supply

The DDS tester (1) may be powered in any one of the following ways:

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- from the mains power supply: by connecting the mains adapter (14) to the power connection socket (M);
- from the motorcycle: by connecting the specific cables (see paragraph “Connection to motorcycle”);
from the tester's internal battery: the battery (P) is housed in the top part of the tester. To operate the tester (1)
-
using the internal battery and to recharge the battery, refer to the “User Manual” supplied with the DDS tester.
To switch on the display, press the button (Q).

Connection to motorcycle
The tester requires a power supply of between 9 and 16 Volts D.C.

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When using the tester, take care never to allow the power supply to fall below the minimum voltage: this situation
could occur during engine starting and idling on motorcycles in which the battery is not in perfect working order. If
the tester detects a power supply voltage of less than 9 Volts, the current procedures will be aborted; when the
voltage returns to within the acceptable tolerance limits the procedure must initiated again from the beginning.

The DDS tester (1) may be powered from the motorcycle in any one of the following ways:
connect the battery power adapter (13) to the power connection socket (M) on the tester and to the motorcycle
-
battery;

connect the power and diagnostic cable (2) to the diagnostic connection socket (N) on the tester; then connect the
- battery socket adapter (8) to the connection socket (R) on the power and diagnostics cable (2) and to the
motorcycle battery;

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connect the power and diagnostic cable (2) to the diagnostic connection socket (N) on the tester; then connect the
-
motorcycle power socket (S) to the connection socket (R) of the power and diagnostic cable (2).

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DDS tester
The main functions of the DDS tester can be summarised as follows:
Retrieval of errors (faults) of the ignition - injection system stored in the engine control unit memory and their
-
subsequent deletion, if required.
Reading of engine parameters (rpm, coolant and air temperature, atmospheric pressure, throttle opening, battery
-
voltage, injection times and ignition advance, etc.).
Active diagnostics. Activation of ignition - injection system transducers to test functionality and control signals (fuel
- pump, ignition coils, rev counter, injectors, etc.). From this function it is also possible to adjust the CO software and
to enter the safety code to override the immobilizer.
Road test. Allows the technician to store engine parameters recorded within a previously specified engine speed
-
range interval. The resulting parameters can then be analysed and displayed once they have been acquired.
With specific sensors connected, the DDS tester can read electrical voltages, current, temperature, timing belt
-
tension, and pressure values (lubrication and fuel supply circuits for example).

Checking and adjusting timing belt tension

Notes
The on-screen icons used during this procedure are explained in a table at the end of this section.

Notes
This operation, which is performed using the DDS tester, has the advantage that it can be carried out on both timing
belts with the engine still installed on the frame. An optical reader is connected to the DDS. The optical reader has a
green LED that serves to determine that the reader is correctly positioned in front of the belt to be tested. It is also
equipped with an infrared transmitter (A) and receiver (B) designed to detect oscillations of the belt when caused to
vibrate with the flick of a finger.

Operation Section reference

Remove the right-hand side fairing E 2, Removal of the side fairings
Remove the seat and the side panels E 3, Removal of the seat/Removal of
the rear side panels

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Remove the battery P 2, Removal of the battery

Remove the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Remove the fuel tank L 2, Removal of the fuel tank
Remove the timing belt covers N 4.2, Removal of the timing belt
covers

Remove the spark plugs.

Position the crankshaft so that the piston of the horizontal cylinder is at TDC of its power stroke.
This is achieved by aligning the timing mark (C) on the driveshaft pulley (19) with reference mark (D) on the clutch
cover (20).

Take the measurement on section (21) of the horizontal belt as described in the paragraph “Measuring timing belt
tension”.
Turn the crankshaft through 270° in the direction of rotation of the engine (so that the piston of the vertical cylinder
is at TDC of the power stroke) and repeat the procedure used for the horizontal cylinder, measuring the tension on
section (22) of the vertical cylinder timing belt.

Remove the belt tension sensor and disconnect the DDS tester from the motorcycle.

Operation Section reference

Refit the timing belt covers N 4.2, Refitting the timing belt covers
Refit the fuel tank L 2, Refitting the fuel tank
Refit the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Refit the battery P 2, Refitting the battery
Refit the seat and rear side panels E 3, Refitting the seat/Refitting the
rear side panels
Refit the right-hand side fairing E 2, Removal of the side fairings

Measuring timing belt tension

Switch on the DDS tester (1); see paragraph entitled “Tester power supply”.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (Measurement Module) (3) to the measurement module connector (E) on

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the DDS tester (1).

Connect the belt tension sensor (15) to the connector (T) of the power and diagnostics cable (Measurement Module)
(3).

Fix the mounting bracket of the belt tension sensor (15) using the timing belt cover bolt (23).
Aim the central green LED of the sensor (15) at the mid-point of the belt run, with the reader parallel to the belt and
at a distance of about 1-1.5 cm from it.

On the DDS tester (1), select the “Measurement module” function by pressing the corresponding icon; then press the
“Belt Tension” icon followed by the “Start” icon to access the “Mechanical belt tension” screen.

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The socket to which the cable (Measurement Module) (3) is to be connected is indicated on the screen with a capital
letter: A, B or C.
Flick the belt lightly with your finger and read the frequency value (Hz) on the DDS tester.

Notes
Do not flick the belt several times repeatedly, as the minimum time necessary for the DDS tester to take a reading is
1 second.

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Correct tension values are as shown in Sect. C 1.1, Timing system/valves and must be checked with the engine cold:
apply the installation values when fitting a new belt, and the reset values when belt tension reaches 70 Hz.

Warning
The timing belts can become slack during normal operation. When checking belt tension, if the reading is less than
70 Hz, restore to the specified reset values (Sect. C 1.1, Timing system/valves).

If the tension value is incorrect, tighten or slacken the belt by loosening the bolts (25) and moving the tensioner
pulleys.
Manually raise the tensioner pulley (24) to increase belt tension or lower it to reduce belt tension.
Re-check the timing belt tension.
Repeat the above procedure until the correct belt tension is obtained.
Once the correct belt tension value has been obtained, tighten the bolts (25) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,
Engine torque settings).

Self-learning throttle position sensor (TPS)

The linear throttle position sensor is mounted on the throttle body and cannot be adjusted. It is therefore necessary
to teach the ECU the angle corresponding to the zero position of the position sensor itself, as follows.

Warning
This procedure must precede the first startup of the vehicle after replacement of the throttle body, potentiometer or
ECU.

Remove the seat (Sect. E 3, Removal of the seat).

Make sure the throttle butterfly valves are seated against the stop screws (throttle twistgrip released).
In this position you can teach the ECU the angle of the position sensor. To do this, use the DDS tester and follow the
procedure described below.
Switch on the DDS tester (1); see paragraph entitled “Tester power supply”.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (2) to the diagnostics connector (A) on the tester and to the diagnostics
socket (B) on the motorcycle.

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Enter the general functions menu by pressing the icon “Menu 1” (A).
Press the “Select vehicle” icon and, on the next screen, press the “Select motorcycle” icon; select the motorcycle
model and confirm, then select the version and confirm.

Press the icon “Select system” to display a list of the bike’s systems that can be analysed.

Select “Engine electronics” and press the “Confirm” icon (C). Next, press the “Self-diagnosis” icon to access the
corresponding function.

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The DDS tester will interrogate the electronic control unit and display the parameters analysed with their relative
values.

Notes
Make all connections with the motorcycle ignition key in the OFF position.

Press the “Settings” icon to display the special parameters.

Select the option “Reset TPS” and then press the icon “Apply”.

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On completion of the operation, the message “Was the operation was completed successfully?” will appear; press
“Confirm” (C).

If any problems were encountered during the operation, the tester will display the relative error messages: each
message must be confirmed, (by pressing the “Confirm” icon (C)), or rejected (by pressing the “Exit” icon (D)).

Once the reset has been performed, the ECU will be associated with the motorcycle's throttle body. Replacement of
the throttle body, the throttle position sensor or the ECU must always be immediately followed by a new reset
procedure.
Refit the seat (Sect. E 3, Refitting the seat).

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Adjusting the idle speed

Notes
Check that the motorcycle is fitted with a genuine Ducati ECU, intake system and exhaust system; if not, fit genuine
components.

Procedure
Connect the inserts of the exhaust gas analyser code 88713.1010 to the outlets on the exhaust pipes using the
fittings (19).

Connect the DDS and select HYPERMOTARD 796.

Make sure that the butterfly valve pulley is seated against the stop screw when the throttle twistgrip is fully closed.
Make sure that the throttle cable freeplay is correctly adjusted.
Check:
- that the throttle angle values read by the DDS with the engine stopped is 0°.
Start the engine and wait for the engine temperature to reach 100 °C.
When the engine temperature reading reaches 100 °C, carry out the adjustment operations described below.
The idle speed must be between 1250±1350 rpm (1300±50):
if the idle speed is lower or higher than the specified range, open or close the bypass screws (20) of both cylinders
- by a 1/4 turn, and, once the correct idle speed has been obtained, check that the CO level in both cylinders is
between 0.4% and 1.4%.

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If the idle speed adjustment procedure is unsuccessful, proceed as follows:

- Overhaul the cylinders (clearances, timing, valve seats, etc.).
- Repeat the entire idle speed adjustment procedure.
Check the vacuum pressures downstream of the butterfly valve (carry out this check only after completing the steps
-
described above).

Warning
If the engine is shut off before proceeding with adjustment of the CO level, wait three minutes after restarting for the
enrichment phase to finish and for the lambda sensors to start working.

If the idle speed is high and cannot be corrected by adjusting the air bypass screws, check the seals under the
throttle body, in particular check for cracks or other damage in the intake manifolds and the latter are firmly secured
to the engine, cuts in the pressure sensor pipes, etc.

Warning
Idle speed adjustment takes priority over balancing the vacuum pressures downstream of the butterfly valve.
Differences in pressure between the horizontal and vertical cylinder are therefore acceptable, provided that the idle
speed is adjusted correctly.

If you are unable to attain the desired idle speed setting, try reducing the vacuum differential downstream of the
-
butterfly valve as described in the following paragraph “Throttle body balancing” in this section.
- Repeat the entire idle speed adjustment procedure.

Throttle body balancing

Connect the Measurement Module cable (3) to the Measurement Module connector on the DDS tester as described in
the paragraph “Description of the Ducati Diagnostic System instrument”.
Connect the vacuum/pressure pipes (6) to the connectors (A) and (C) of cable (3) and connect the fittings (7) to the
pipes.

Switch on the DDS tester; see the paragraph “Tester power supply”. Enter the “Measurement module” function. Press
the “Cylinder synchronisation” icon.
The socket to which the Measurement Module cable (3) is to be connected is indicated on the screen with a capital
letter: A, B or C.

Remove the bolts (21) on the intake manifolds and install the fittings (7) in place of the bolts.

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Open both bypass screws (20) by one turn from the fully closed position.

Warning
Press the “Reset” icon (G), then connect the sensors (4) and (5) to connectors (A) and (C) of the cable (3) and to the
vacuum/pressure pipes (6).

Press the “Start” icon to begin the cylinder pressure measurement procedure.

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The onscreen indicator light (E) will turn red when the function is active.
Start the engine.

The values may be displayed in two different ways: in numerical form or in graphic form; to select the desired display
type, press the “Value display” icon (F). The values can be reset by pressing the “Reset” icon (G).

To adjust the balance (within the tolerance range of 260 mbar to 270 mbar), turn the bypass screws (20) until the
two lines on the graph coincide, if in graphic mode, or until identical numerical values are displayed, if in numerical
mode.
Correct balance is obtained when the two lines of the graph are very close together or when the two values are within
the specified tolerance range.

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Checking the engine oil pressure

To measure the pressure of the lubrication circuit, use the engine oil pressure test point (19) as described below.
Disconnect the wiring connector (A) and remove the pressure switch (19), taking care to recover the seal.

Insert the fitting (9) into the connection on the hose (12), interposing the two copper sealing washers (20). Insert the
fitting (9) of the pipe (12) in the threaded hole (M10x1 mm) of the right crankcase cover and screw it fully home.
Refit the pressure switch (19) on the fitting (9) along with its seal, and reconnect the wiring connector (A).

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Connect the pressure sensor (5) to the pipe (12) to transform the pressure signal into an electrical signal.

Switch on the DDS tester (1); see paragraph entitled “Tester power supply”.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (Measurement Module) (3) to the measurement module connector (B) on
the DDS tester (1).

Connect the pressure sensor (5) to socket (A) or (C) of the cable (3).

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On the DDS tester (1), select the “Measurement module” function by pressing the corresponding icon; then press the
“Pressure Test” icon (D) followed by the “Start” icon (E).

The socket to which the cable (Measurement Module) (3) is to be connected is indicated on the screen with a capital
letter: A, B or C.

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Start the engine.

The values may be displayed in three different ways: in one numeric form and in two graphic forms; to select the
desired display type, press the “Value display” icon.
The measured value is indicated alongside the letter (A) or (C) identifying the cable used for the measurement: i.e. if
you used connector (A) of the cable (3), the value measured will displayed next to the letter (A) on the screen.

Oil pressure test values:

Warm engine
(Minimum oil temperature = 80 °C)
1100 to 1300 rpm
greater than 0.8 bar.
3500 to 4000 rpm
greater than 4 bar.

Important
The maximum pressure must never exceed 6.0 bar.

Excessively high pressure may indicate that the relief valve is stuck. Excessively low pressure, on the other hand,
may be caused by the relief valve being stuck in the open position, the relief valve spring being too weak, or a faulty
oil pump. Other causes are excessively worn seals and gaskets or a badly worn engine.
Remove the tool and refit the pressure switch (19) along with its seal. Tighten the pressure switch to the specified
torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Reconnect the electrical system connector (A) to the pressure switch.

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Disconnect the DDS tester.

Cylinder compression test

Notes
The on-screen icons used during this procedure are explained in a table at the end of this section.

Engine performance is directly correlated to the pressure that can be measured in the combustion chambers of the
two cylinders.
Excessive or insufficient pressure, or an excessive difference between the two cylinders, will result in a reduction in
engine performance and can lead to component failure.
To test the cylinder compression you require a suitable compression gauge with a threaded adapter for the sparkplug
hole.
Warm up the engine by allowing it to run for at least ten minutes.
Open the throttles completely.
Pull the caps (F) off the spark plugs.
Remove the spark plugs.

Screw the cylinder compression fitting (11) into the spark plug bore.
Connect the pressure sensor (5) to the cable (11).

Switch on the DDS tester (1); see paragraph entitled “Tester power supply”.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (Measurement Module) (3) to the measurement module connector (B) on

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the DDS tester (1).

Connect the pressure sensor (5) to socket (A) or (C) of the cable (3).

Notes
Measure the compression on one cylinder at a time.

On the DDS tester (1), select the “Measurement module” function by pressing the corresponding icon; then press the
“Cylinder Compression” icon (D) followed by the “Start” icon (E).

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The socket to which the cable (Measurement Module) (3) is to be connected is indicated on the screen with a capital
letter: A, B or C.

Turn over the engine with the starter motor until the pressure stops rising.
Check the pressure in each cylinder:
standard value:
-
11 to 12 bar;
minimum value:
-
10 bar;
- maximum permissible difference between cylinders: 2 bar.

An excessively high pressure value can be caused by:

- build up of deposits in the combustion chamber.
An excessively low pressure value can be caused by:
- gas escaping between the cylinder head and the barrel;
- worn valve seats;
- bent valve stems;
- incorrect valve clearances;
- worn cylinder or piston rings.
Refit the spark plugs and reconnect the HT leads (F).

Fuel pressure test

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Notes
The on-screen icons used during this procedure are explained in a table at the end of this section.

To test the fuel pressure, use the fuel pressure test pipe (17).
Remove the fuel tank outlet pipe (D) on the left side of the flange along with the fitting (E).

Fit the fuel pressure test pipe (17), connecting one end (F) to the flange and the other (G) to the fitting (E): in this
way, the fuel pressure can be measured at the test outlet (H).

Connect the pressure sensor (5) to the test outlet (H) of pipe (17) to transform the pressure signal into an electrical
signal.

Switch on the DDS tester (1); see paragraph entitled “Tester power supply”.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (Measurement Module) (3) to the measurement module connector (E) on
the DDS tester (1).

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Connect the pressure sensor (5) to socket (A) or (C) of the cable (3).

On the DDS tester (1), select the “Measurement module” function by pressing the corresponding icon; then press the
“Pressure Test” icon (L) followed by the “Start” icon (M).

The socket to which the cable (Measurement Module) (3) is to be connected is indicated on the screen with a capital
letter: A, B or C.
The values may be displayed in three different ways: in one numeric form and in two graphic forms; to select the
desired display type, press the “Value display” icon (N).

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The measured value is indicated alongside the letter (A) or (C) identifying the cable used for the measurement: i.e. if
you used connector (A) of the cable (3), the value measured will displayed next to the letter (A) on the screen.
The maximum pressure must be 3 bar (nominal).
On completion of the test, remove all the components of the test instrument, refit the fuel tank outlet pipe (D)
securing it with the clamp (E).

Immobilizer override procedure

Notes
The on-screen icons used during this procedure are explained in a table at the end of this section.

In the event of a malfunction of the immobilizer system, it is possible to start the engine using the emergency
procedure this procedure, which is described in full in Section P 7, Immobilizer override procedure, requires a secret
code which may be entered using the DDS tester.

Remove the seat (Sect. E 3, Removal of the seat).

Switch on the DDS tester (1); see paragraph entitled “Tester power supply”.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (2) to the diagnostics connector (A) on the tester and to the diagnostics
socket (B) on the motorcycle.

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Enter the general functions menu by pressing the icon “Menu 1” (A).

Press the “Select vehicle” icon and, on the next screen, press the “Select motorcycle” icon; select the motorcycle
model and confirm, then select the version and confirm.

Press the icon “Select system” to display a list of the bike’s systems that can be analysed. Select “Engine electronics”
and press the “Confirm” icon (B). Next, press the “Self-diagnosis” icon to access the corresponding function.

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The DDS tester will interrogate the electronic control unit and display the parameters analysed with their relative
values.

Notes
Make all connections with the motorcycle ignition key in the OFF position.
Press the “Actuators” icon (C) to display the actuators and other components connected to the ECU.

Select the “Immobilizer Override” option and then press the “Apply” icon (D).

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A screen will appear in which you can enter the 5 digit secret code. Use the red arrows (E) and (F) to enter each digit:
after entering each digit, press the “Confirm” icon (B).
One the entire code has been entered, press the “Confirm” icon (B) again.
On completion of the operation, the message “Was the operation completed successfully?” will appear; press
“Confirm”.
If any problems were encountered during the operation, the tester will display the relative error messages: each
message must be confirmed by pressing the “Confirm” icon, or rejected by pressing the “Exit” icon (G).

Disconnect the tester.

Refit the seat (Sect. E 3, Refitting the seat).

Guided diagnosis

Notes
The on-screen icons used during this procedure are explained in a table at the end of this section.

The DDS tester guides the operator step-by-step through the various diagnostic procedures, providing descriptions
and documentation for motorcycle components, wiring diagrams for the electronic systems and information on the
locations of specific components.

Remove the seat (Sect. E 3, Removal of the seat).

Switch on the DDS tester (1); see paragraph entitled “Tester power supply”.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (2) to the diagnostics connector (A) on the tester and to the diagnostics
socket (B) on the motorcycle.

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Enter the general functions menu by pressing the icon “Menu 1” (A).

Press the “Select vehicle” icon and, on the next screen, press the “Select motorcycle” icon; select the motorcycle
model and confirm, then select the version and confirm.

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Press the icon “Select system” to display a list of the bike’s systems that can be analysed.
Select “Engine electronics” and press the “Confirm” icon (B).

Press the “Guided diagnosis” icon (C) to access the corresponding function.

A series of screens are displayed indicating the operations required for correct diagnosis.

To determine whether the system has any internal problems, you can access the “Self-diagnosis” function by pressing
the corresponding icon. If any errors are present, the symbol (D) will be displayed. To determine the type of errors
present, press the “Errors” icon (E). Once errors have been detected, you can then resolve them through the guided

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diagnosis procedure; press the “Guided Diagnosis” icon (C).

The DDS tester will interrogate the electronic control unit and display the parameters analysed with their relative
values.

Testing the battery charging system

Notes
The on-screen icons used during this procedure are explained in a table at the end of this section.

You can determine the engine rpm required for the alternator to produce sufficient current to charge the battery,
power the injection/ignition system and all the electrical equipment on the motorcycle. When applied to a cable, the
ammeter clamp (18) detects the magnetic field generated by the current passing through that cable.

Remove the seat (Sect. E 3, Removal of the seat).

Switch on the DDS tester (1); see paragraph entitled “Connection to motorcycle”.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (Measurement Module) (3) to the measurement module connector (D) on
the DDS tester (1).

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Connect the ammeter clamp to the connector (E) of the power and diagnostics cable (Measurement Module) (3).

Warning
The ammeter clamp must not be connected to wires through which electrical current is flowing.
Apply the ammeter clamp to the battery positive terminal lead with the arrow on the clamp pointing towards the
battery positive terminal (+).

On the DDS tester (1), select the “Measurement module” function by pressing the corresponding icon; then press the
“Ammeter” icon (F) followed by the “Start” icon.

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The socket to which the cable (Measurement Module) (3) is to be connected is indicated on the screen with a capital
letter: A, B or C.

If the measured current is a positive quantity, this means that alternator is powering all the electrical loads and
charging battery at the same time. If the current has a negative sign, this means that the charging system is not able
to power the electrical loads and a significant amount of the current required must be supplied by the battery, which
is therefore discharging.

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Refit the seat (Sect. E 3, Refitting the seat).

Deactivating the “service” indication on the instrument panel

The instrument panel multifunction display features a wrench symbol that signals the need for servicing in accordance
with the programmed maintenance routine.

After the scheduled service has been carried out, the indication must be switched off as follows.

Notes
The on-screen icons used during this procedure are explained in a table at the end of this section.

Remove the seat (Sect. E 3, Removal of the seat).

Switch on the DDS tester; see the paragraph “Tester power supply”.
Connect the power and diagnostics cable (2) to the diagnostics connector (A) on the tester and to the diagnostics
socket (E) on the motorcycle.

Enter the general functions menu by pressing the icon “Menu 1” (B).

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Press the “Select vehicle” icon and, on the next screen, press the “Select motorcycle” icon; select the motorcycle
model and confirm, then select the version and confirm by pressing the “Select vehicle system” icon.

A list of the motorcycle’s systems that can be analysed will appear on the display.
Select “Engine electronics”.
Press the “Confirm” icon (C).

Next, press the “Self-diagnosis” icon to access the corresponding function.

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The DDS tester will interrogate the electronic control unit and display the parameters analysed with their relative
values.
Press the “Settings” icon to display the special parameters. Select the option “Service light OFF” and then press the
“Apply” icon.

On completion of the operation, the message “Was the operation was completed successfully?” will appear; press
“Confirm” (C).

If any problems were encountered during the operation, the tester will display the relative error messages: each
message must be confirmed, (by pressing the “Confirm” icon (C)), or rejected (by pressing the “Exit” icon (D)).

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Notes
Once the “service” indication has been reset with the DDS tester, set the ignition switch to OFF and wait for at least
30 seconds before switching it ON again.

Refit the seat (Sect. E 3, Refitting the seat).

Icons table

Symbol Description
Confirm

Exit

Measurement module

Belt tension

Start/Stop

Menu 1

Select vehicle

Select motorcycle

Self-diagnosis

Settings

Apply

Cylinder synchronisation

Value display

Reset

Pressure test

Cylinder compression

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Diagnostic instruments

Actuators

Guided diagnosis

Select system

Errors

Ammeter clamp

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 E - Impianto elettrico

0E - Impianto elettrico
1 - Headlight fairing - hand guards - rear-view mirrors 3
Removal of the hand guards - rearview mirrors 4
Refitting the hand guards - rearview mirrors 5
Removal of the headlight fairing 7
Refitting the headlight fairing 9

2 - Fairings 10
Removal of the side fairings 11
Refitting the side fairings 14

3 - Seat - side panels 15

Removal of the seat 16
Refitting the seat 16
Removal of the rear side panels 18
Refitting the rear side panels 19

4 - Front mudguard 20
Removal of the front mudguard 21
Refitting the front mudguard 22

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 Headlight fairing - hand guards - rear-view mirrors

1 - Headlight fairing - hand guards - rear-view mirrors

1 Headlight fairing
2 Spacer
3 Clip
4 Bolt
5 Washer
6 Lower support
7 RH mirror
8 LH mirror
9 RH hand guard
10 LH hand guard
11 Bolt
12 Bolt
13 Upper clamp
14 Bush
15 Bush
16 Bolt
17 Bolt
18 Washer
19 Bolt
20 RH mirror support
21 LH mirror support
22 Bolt
23 Right turn signal
24 Left turn signal

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 Headlight fairing - hand guards - rear-view mirrors

25 Cover
26 Bolt

Parts catalogue

HANDLEBARS AND CONTROLS

Headlight fairing

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the hand guards - rearview mirrors

Lift the rubber cover (C).
Disconnect the turn signal wiring connectors (A) from the main wiring loom.

Unscrew the bolts (16) and remove the clamps (13).

Loosen the bolts (11) and slide the hand guard-mirror assemblies (9) and (10) off the handlebars.

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 Headlight fairing - hand guards - rear-view mirrors

To disassemble the hand guard-mirror-turn signal assembly, refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this
section.

Refitting the hand guards - rearview mirrors

If the hand guard-mirror-turn signal assembly has been disassembled, proceed with reassembly, fitting the right turn
signal (23) to the hand guard (9), routing the wiring (A) behind clip (B) and fitting bolts (12). Tighten the bolts to the
specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Notes
The right turn signal can be identified by the word “RIGHT” and its correct position is shown by the word “TOP”.

Locate the cover (25), fit the cover retaining bolts (26) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings).

Proceed in the same way for the left-hand side.

Notes
The left turn signal can be identified by the word “LEFT” and its correct position is shown by the word “TOP”.

Insert the bolt (11) in the hand guard-mirror assembly (9) with bush (14) and bush (15).

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 Headlight fairing - hand guards - rear-view mirrors

Locate the hand guard-mirror assemblies (9) and (10) on the handlebar and tighten the bolts (11).

Refit the clamp (13) on the handlebar and tighten the bolts (16) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings).

Reconnect the turn signal wiring connectors (A) to the main wiring loom.
Replace the rubber cover (C).

Removal of the headlight fairing

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 Headlight fairing - hand guards - rear-view mirrors

Unscrew and remove the bolts (4) securing the bottom of headlight fairing (1) to the headlight support and recover
the washers (5).
Unscrew and remove the bolts (19) securing the headlight fairing (1) to the lower headlight bracket and recover the
washers (5).
Remove the headlight fairing (1) from the motorcycle.

Disassembly of the headlight fairing

Unscrew the bolts (17) securing the mudguard (6) to the headlight fairing (1) and recover the washers (18).

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 Headlight fairing - hand guards - rear-view mirrors

Reassembly of the headlight fairing

Make sure that the clips (3) are fitted to the headlight fairing (1).

Insert the bolts (17) complete with the washers (18) in the mudguard (6).
Fit the mudguard (6) to the headlight shell (1) and tighten the bolts (17) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame
torque settings).

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 Headlight fairing - hand guards - rear-view mirrors

Refitting the headlight fairing

Locate the headlight fairing (1) on the headlight support; fit the bolts (4) and (19) with their respective washers (5).
Tighten the bolts (4) and (19) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

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 Fairings

2 - Fairings

1 RH side fairing
2 LH side fairing
3 RH panel
4 LH panel
5 Bolt
6 Washer
7 Quick-release fastener
8 Bolt
9 Washer
10 Quick-release fastener

Parts catalogue

Fairing

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the side fairings

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 Fairings

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat E 3, Removal of the seat

Unscrew the bolt (5) securing RH side fairing (1) to the frame and recover the washer (6).

Unscrew the bolts (8) securing RH side fairing (1) to the fuel tank and recover the washers (9).
Remove the RH side fairing assembly (1) from the motorcycle.

Repeat the above steps to refit the LH side fairing (2).

Disassembly of the fairing

Unscrew the quick-release fasteners (7) and remove the RH panel (3).

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 Fairings

Repeat the above steps to disassemble the LH side fairing (2).

Notes
Removal of the LH panel (4) gives access to the document compartment.

Reassembly of the fairing

To reassemble the fairing, carry out the steps of the disassembly procedure in reverse order; in particular, prepare
the quick-release fasteners (7) by putting them in the “open” position, as shown in the photos. Locate the inner panel
(3) on the RH fairing (1). Insert the “open” fasteners in their corresponding locations on the panel. Secure the inner
panel by closing the quick-release fasteners as shown in the photo.

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 Fairings

Refitting the side fairings

Notes
If parts that have been removed are not refitted correctly, they may become loose suddenly while riding and cause
you to lose control of your motorcycle.

Fit the bolts (8) securing RH side fairing (1) to the fuel tank, interposing the washers (9).

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 Fairings

Fit the bolt (5) securing RH side fairing (1) to the frame, interposing the washer (6).

Tighten all the fairing bolts to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Repeat the above steps to refit the LH side fairing (2).

Operation Section reference

Refit the seat E 3, Refitting the seat

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 Seat - side panels

3 - Seat - side panels

1 Seat
2 RH side panel
3 LH side panel
4 RH heat shield
5 LH heat shield
6 Washer
7 Bolt
8 Rubber
9 Washer
10 Bolt
11 Rubber mounting
12 Spacer
13 Spacer
14 Bolt
15 Washer

Parts catalogue

SEAT - Tail light

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be

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 Seat - side panels

found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the seat

To remove the seat (1), unscrew the bolt (10), slightly raise the rear of the seat and pull backwards.

Refitting the seat

To fit the seat (1), fully engage the slots (A) on the pins (B) of the fuel tank.
Secure the seat with the bolt (10).

Warning
When refitting the seat, make sure that the wiring is held securely in the correct locations on the fuel tank to avoid
the risk of wires being pinched.

Tighten the bolt (10) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

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 Seat - side panels

Removal of the rear side panels

Remove the pillion seat, as described in the paragraph “Removal of the seat”.
Unscrew the bolts (7) securing the side panels (2) and (3) to the silencer, and recover the washers (6) and (9) and
spacer (13).

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 Seat - side panels

Unscrew the bolts (14) securing the side panels (2) and (3) to the subframe, and recover the washers (15).

Refitting the rear side panels

Refit the side panels following the steps of the removal procedure in reverse order.
In particular, check that the rubber dampers (8) are installed on the side panels; fit washers (9) on bushes (13),
insert the bushes in the rubber dampers from the inside of the side panel and fit washers (6) on bolts (7).
Fit the washers (15) on the bolts (14).
Locate the side panels and fit bolts (7) and (14).
Tighten the bolts (7) and (14) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

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 Seat - side panels

Refit the pillion seat, as described in the paragraph “Refitting the seat”.

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 Front mudguard

4 - Front mudguard

1 Right heel plate

2 Left heel plate
3 Bolt
4 Washer
5 Mudguard
6 Bolt
7 Washer
8 Stay

Parts catalogue

FAIRING

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the front mudguard

Remove the fork guards (1) and (2) by unscrewing the bolts (3) and recovering the washers (4).

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 Front mudguard

Release the front brake hose (A) from the mudguard (5).
Unscrew the bolts (6) securing the mudguard to the fork and recover the washers (7).
Remove the mudguard.
Unscrew the stays (8) and remove them from the fork legs.

Refitting the front mudguard

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 Front mudguard

Warning
Do not ride the motorcycle without the front mudguard. The front mudguard also acts as a brake hose support and
prevents the brake hose from fouling the wheel when braking.

Apply the recommended threadlocker to the threads of the stays (8).

Screw the supports (8) onto the fork legs.

Locate the mudguard (5) on the suppports (8), insert the bolts (6) complete with washers (7) and tighten to the
specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Locate the front brake hoses (A) in their respective clips on the mudguard.

Refit the fork guards (1) and (2) using the bolts (3) with washers (4) tightened to the specified torque
(Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

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Front mudguard

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 1 - Throttle twistgrip 3

1 - Throttle twistgrip 3
Adjusting the throttle cable 4
Removal of the throttle twistgrip 4
Refitting the throttle twistgrip 5

2 - Hydraulic clutch control 7

Removal of the clutch master cylinder assembly 8
Refitting the clutch master cylinder assembly 9
Removal of the clutch slave cylinder 11
Refitting the clutch slave cylinder 12

3 - Front brake control 17

Removal of the front brake master cylinder 18
Refitting the front brake master cylinder 19

4 - Rear brake control 23

Removal of the rear brake master cylinder 24
Refitting the rear brake master cylinder 26

5 - Gearchange control 31
Removal of the gearchange control 32
Disassembly of the gearchange control 33
Refitting the gearchange control 33

0F - Impianto elettrico

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 Throttle twistgrip

1 - Throttle twistgrip

1 Throttle twistgrip
2 Cable adjuster on throttle body
3 Throttle cable
4 Bolt
5 Left grip
6 Cover
7 Cable adjuster on handlebar

Parts catalogue

HANDLEBAR AND CONTROLS

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Adjusting the throttle cable

For instructions on how to adjust the throttle cable, see Sect. D 4, Adjusting the throttle cables.

Removal of the throttle twistgrip

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 Throttle twistgrip

Operation Section reference

Remove the RH hand guard-mirror E 1, Removal of the hand guards -
assembly rearview mirrors

Loosen locknut (A) and fully unscrew the adjuster (2) from the throttle body pulley (B).
Rotate the throttle body pulley (B) so that the cable end fitting (C) can be disengaged from the pulley.

Remove the bolts (4) and the cover (6) and disconnect the throttle cable from the twistgrip, freeing the cable end
from the race and fully unscrewing the adjuster (7).
Remove the throttle cable (3) from the motorcycle.
Loosen the two bolts (D) securing the throttle twistgrip to the handlebar.
Remove the throttle twistgrip (1) from the handlebar.

Refitting the throttle twistgrip

Lubricate the end of the throttle cable (3) with the recommended grease.
To refit the throttle twistgrip components, reverse the steps of the removal procedure. Tighten the bolts (4) and (D)
to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Notes

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 Throttle twistgrip

Refer to the photos on the following pages for correct routing of the throttle cable.

Operation Section reference

Refit the RH hand guard-mirror E 1, Refitting the hand guards -
assembly rearview mirrors

Throttle cable positioning

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Throttle twistgrip

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 Hydraulic clutch control

2 - Hydraulic clutch control

1 Clutch master cylinder

2 Inspection plug (replacement part)
3 Lever pivot pin
4 Lever with grub screw
5 Fluid reservoir cover
6 Clutch hose
7 Mounting clamp
8 Sealing washer
9 Rubber mounting
10 Banjo bolt
11 Bleed valve
12 Dust cap
13 O-ring
14 Clutch slave cylinder
15 Bolt
16 Clutch pushrod
17 O-ring
18 Microswitch

Parts catalogue

CLUTCH CONTROL

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 Hydraulic clutch control

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the clutch master cylinder assembly

Warning
The clutch master cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing of the clutch master cylinder (1) due to the safety-
critical nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul of this component could endanger rider safety.

Maintenance operations of the master cylinder are limited to replacing the following parts: control lever, reservoir
unit, and master cylinder fasteners.

Operation Section reference

Drain the clutch system D 4, Draining the clutch hydraulic
circuit
Remove the LH hand guard-mirror E 1, Removal of the hand guards -
assembly rearview mirrors

Remove the dust cap (12) and the bleed valve (11) and unscrew the banjo bolt (10) and remove the hose (6), taking
care to recover the sealing washers (8).

Unscrew the two clamp bolts (7) securing the clutch master cylinder assembly to the handlebar.
Remove the clutch master cylinder assembly (1). to dismantle the assembly, refer to the exploded view diagram at
the beginning of the chapter.

Refitting the clutch master cylinder assembly

Tighten the retaining screws (7) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings), in the sequence 1-2-1,
starting with the uppermost screw.

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 Hydraulic clutch control

Locate the hose (6) on the slave cylinder (14), ensuring that the hose end fitting is correctly positioned relative to the
slave cylinder (14).

Warning
An incorrectly positioned hose can cause clutch faults and interfere with moving parts.

Locate the two sealing washers (8) and tighten the banjo bolt (10) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings).
Refit the bleed valve (11) and the dust cap (12).

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 Hydraulic clutch control

For the positioning of the clutch hose (6) and retaining clips, see the illustration at the end of this section.

Operation Section reference

Fill the clutch circuit D 4, Filling the clutch circuit
Refit the LH hand guard-mirror E 1, Refitting the hand guards -
assembly rearview mirrors

Removal of the clutch slave cylinder

Warning
The clutch slave cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing of internal components of clutch slave cylinder (23).
Incorrect overhaul of this component could endanger rider safety.

Only the following parts may be replaced: the bleed valve, the seal and the complete pushrod assembly.

Operation Section reference

Drain the clutch system D 4, Draining the clutch hydraulic
circuit

Undo the three bolts (15) securing the clutch slave cylinder (14) to the engine and withdraw the unit from the
crankcase.

Remove the dust cap (12) and the bleed valve (11) and unscrew the banjo bolt (10), taking care to recover the
sealing washers (8): the unit (14) is now disconnected from hose (6).
Push in the piston to force out all the fluid from inside the cap.

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 Hydraulic clutch control

At this point the clutch pushrod (16) may also be withdrawn. Check the state of wear of the two O-rings (17) and
renew them if necessary.

Notes
If the two O-rings (17) are renewed, it will also be necessary to renew the O-ring (13) of the clutch slave cylinder
(14).

Refitting the clutch slave cylinder

Notes
If the clutch pushrod (16) is renewed, it will also be necessary to renew the O-rings (17) and (13) of the clutch slave
cylinder (14).

Grease and refit the clutch pushrod (16) with the two O-rings (17).

Notes
If the slave cylinder unit (14) is renewed, it will also be necessary to renew the O-ring (13) and the two O-rings (17)
of the clutch pushrod (16).

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 Hydraulic clutch control

Locate the slave cylinder unit (14) in the crankcase and tighten the bolts (15) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,
Frame torque settings).

Locate the hose (6) on the slave cylinder (14), ensuring that the hose end fitting is correctly positioned relative to the
slave cylinder (14).

Warning
An incorrectly positioned hose can cause clutch faults and interfere with moving parts.

Locate the two sealing washers (8) and tighten the banjo bolt (10) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings).
Refit the bleed valve (11) and the dust cap (12).
Refer to the diagram on the following page for correct positioning of the retaining clips for the hose (6).

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 Hydraulic clutch control

Operation Section reference

Fill the clutch circuit D 4, Filling the clutch circuit

Positioning of the clutch hose

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Hydraulic clutch control

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Hydraulic clutch control

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Hydraulic clutch control

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 Front brake control

3 - Front brake control

1 Front brake master cylinder

2 Brake lever pedal
3 Rubber mounting
4 Fluid reservoir cover
5 Microswitch
6 Lever pivot pin
7 Inspection plug (replacement part)
8 Mounting clamp
9 Calipers-master cylinder hose

Parts catalogue

FRONT BRAKE

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the front brake master cylinder

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 Front brake control

Warning
The brake master cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the brake master cylinder due to the safety critical
nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul of this component could endanger rider safety.
Maintenance operations on these units are limited to renewal of the following parts: control lever, fluid reservoir
assembly and relative fasteners and master cylinder fasteners.
If the hose connecting the master cylinder to the brake caliper is changed, ensure that the hose end fittings are
positioned correctly.

Warning
If incorrectly positioned, the hose can affect brake operation and foul moving parts. Position the hose as shown in the
figure.

Operation Section reference

Drain the braking system D 4, Draining the clutch hydraulic
circuit
Disconnect the brake hose from the G 3, Removal of the front brake
master cylinder unit system
Remove the RH hand guard-mirror E 1, Removal of the hand guards -
assembly rearview mirrors

Unscrew the bolts (A) securing the mounting clamp (8) and then remove the front brake master cylinder assembly
(1) from the handlebar.
For disassembly of components of the master cylinder unit (1), refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this
chapter.

Refitting the front brake master cylinder

Locate the clamp (8) of the master cylinder (1) using the grub screw to secure it in the correct position.
Tighten the bolts (A) of the mounting clamp (8) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings), in the
sequence 1-2-1.

If any work has been carried out on the hose (9), follow the instructions given in Section G 3, Refitting the front

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 Front brake control

brake system.

Operation Section reference

Reconnect the brake hose to the G 3, Refitting the front brake system
master cylinder
Fill the brake circuit D 4, Filling the clutch circuit
Refit the RH hand guard-mirror E 1, Refitting the hand guards -
assembly rearview mirrors

Positioning of front brake hose

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Front brake control

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Front brake control

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Front brake control

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 Rear brake control

4 - Rear brake control

1 Rear brake master cylinder

2 Clamp
3 Reservoir - master cylinder hose
4 Fluid reservoir
5 Filler cap
6 Sealing washer
7 Banjo bolt
8 Pushrod
9 Nut
10 Clevis
11 Pin
12 Bolt
13 Rear brake hose
14 Brake pedal
15 Rubber
16 Pin
17 Circlip
18 Bush
19 O-ring
20 Spring
21 Washer
22 Nut
23 Bolt
24 Adjuster screw

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 Rear brake control

25 Dust boot
26 Switch
27 Bolt
28 Washer

Parts catalogue

REAR BRAKE

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the rear brake master cylinder

Warning
The brake master cylinder manufacturer advises against servicing the brake master cylinder due to the safety critical
nature of this component. Incorrect overhaul of this component could endanger rider safety.

Maintenance operations on these units are limited to renewal of the following parts: control lever, fluid reservoir
assembly and relative fasteners and the complete master cylinder assembly.

Operation Section reference

Drain the braking system D 4, Draining the brake circuits

Undo the banjo bolt (7) securing the rear brake hose (13) and recover the sealing washers (6).

Unscrew and remove the bolts (12) securing the rear brake master cylinder (1).
The master cylinder (1) is now free of the footrest bracket.

Release the pin (11) from the return spring (20) and remove the pin after having removed the circlip (17).
Next unscrew the nut (9) and the pushrod (8) from the clevis (10).

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 Rear brake control

Remove the bolt (23) securing the reservoir (4).

Remove the complete master cylinder and the reservoir (4) with the hose (3).

If necessary, remove the footrest bracket as described in Section H 4, Removal of the footrest brackets.
Unscrew the pivot bolt (16).
Remove the pedal (14) and recover the washer (21) and O-rings (19).

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 Rear brake control

If the bush (18) in the footrest bracket is to be renewed, install the new bush using a press so that it is recessed
2 mm relative to the outer surface of the footrest bracket (B).

Refitting the rear brake master cylinder

Warning
After working on the rear brake control, check the operation of the brake pedal following the instructions given in
Section D 4, Adjusting the position of the gearchange and rear brake pedals.

Apply the recommended grease to the pivot bolt (16) and the seats of the O-rings (19).
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the thread of the hole for the pivot bolt (16) in the right-hand footrest
bracket.
Fit the pivot bolt (16) on the lever (14) with O-rings (19) and washer (21).
Fit the gearchange lever (14) to the footrest bracket and tighten the pivot bolt (16) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,
Frame torque settings).

Notes
When refitting the lever, make sure that the O-rings remain correctly seated.

Fit the spring (20), locating the end in the groove of in the clevis pivot pin (11).

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 Rear brake control

If removed, refit the right-hand footrest bracket as described in Section H 4, Refitting the footrest brackets.
Locate the rear brake master cylinder (1) on the motorcycle and fit the retaining bolts (12), applying the
recommended threadlocker.
Tighten the bolts (12) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Locate the reservoir (4) on its lug on the frame and secure it with the bolt (23) tightened to the specified torque
(Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

If the rod (8) - clevis (10) assembly has been dismantled, reassemble by screwing nut (9) onto the rod (8), then
screw the rod into the clevis (10) to obtain the measurement indicated in the figure.
Restrain the pushrod and tighten the nut (9) against clevis (10) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings).

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 Rear brake control

Lubricate the other end of the rod (8) with the recommended grease and insert it in the master cylinder (1).

Reconnect the hose (13), locating the sealing washers (6) on both sides of the hose end fitting, and secure it with the
banjo bolt (7).
Orientate the brake hose end fitting (13) so that is pointing inwards at 90° to the axis of the master cylinder.
Tighten the banjo bolt (7) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Operation Section reference

Fill the brake circuit D 4, Filling the brake circuits

Positioning of rear brake hose

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Rear brake control

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Rear brake control

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Rear brake control

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 Gearchange control

5 - Gearchange control

1 Gearchange pedal pivot bolt

2 Gearchange pedal
3 Bolt
4 Pedal rubber
5 O-ring
6 Bush
7 Washer
8 Gearchange lever tie-rod
9 Nut
10 Bolt
11 Bolt
12 Lever
13 Pivot

Parts catalogue

L.H. FOOTRESTS

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

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 Gearchange control

Removal of the gearchange control

Unscrew and remove the pivot bolt (1) securing the gearchange pedal (2).
Unscrew and remove the clamp bolt (10) securing the gearchange lever to the gear selector shaft.
Withdraw the lever (12) complete with the gearchange control assembly.

Notes
Mark the position of lever (12) relative to the gear selector shaft.

To remove the lever (12) from the gearchange control assembly, remove the bolt (11). Recover the nut (9) and slide
the lever (12) off the pivot (13).

Disassembly of the gearchange control

Refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this section for indications on disassembly and renewal of gearchange
control components.
If the bush (6) in the pedal (2) needs renewing, drive the replacement bush into place using a press. The bush must
be seated 2 mm below the pedal outer face.

Warning
After working on the gearchange control, check the position of the gearchange pedal.

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 Gearchange control

To adjust the position of the gear pedal, follow the instructions provided in Sect. D 4, Adjusting the position of the
gearchange and rear brake pedals.

Refitting the gearchange control

To refit the gearchange control, reverse the operations of the removal procedure.
In particular, grease the O-rings (5), apply threadlocker to the bolt (10), pivot bolt (1) and then tighten them to the
specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Tighten the nut (9) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) while counterholding the bolt (11).

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 G - Impianto elettrico

0G - Impianto elettrico
1 - Front wheel 3
Removal of the front wheel 4
Overhauling the front wheel 6
Refitting the front wheel 9

2 - Front fork 11
Removal of the front forks 12
Overhauling the front forks 13
Refitting the front forks 21

3 - Hydraulic front brake 22

Maintenance operations 23
Removal of the front brake system 23
Removal of the brake discs 24
Refitting the brake discs 25
Overhauling the front brake components 25
Refitting the front brake system 26

4 - Rear wheel 29
Removal of the rear wheel 30
Overhauling the rear wheel 30
Refitting the rear wheel 32

5 - Rear swingarm 33
Removal of the rear eccentric hub 34
Refitting the rear eccentric hub 36
Removal of the swingarm 38
Inspecting the swingarm pivot shaft 41
Overhauling the rear swingarm 42
Refitting the swingarm 47

6 - Hydraulic rear brake 49

Removal of the rear brake system 50
Removal of the rear brake disc 52
Refitting the rear brake disc 53
Refitting the rear brake system 54

7 - Rear suspension 56
Rear suspension system 57

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 G - Impianto elettrico

Removal of the rear shock absorber 57

Overhauling the rear shock absorber 58
Removal of the rear suspension rocker arm 60
Overhauling the rear suspension rocker arm 61
Refitting the rear suspension 63

8 - Final drive 66
Inspecting the final drive 67
Removal of the front sprocket 68
Refitting the front sprocket 69
Renewal of the oil seal on the gearbox output shaft 70
Removal of the rear sprocket 71
Refitting the rear sprocket 73
Washing the chain 74
Lubricating the chain 74

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 Front wheel

1 - Front wheel

1 Nut
2 Valve
3 Right spacer
4 Seal
5 Bearing
6 Front wheel
7 Inner spacer
8 Washer
9 Left spacer
10 Front wheel axle
11 Bolt

Parts catalogue

FRONT FORKS
FRONT AND REAR WHEELS

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

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 Front wheel

Removal of the front wheel

Remove the front brake calipers complete with hoses by undoing the bolts (A).

Warning
Do not operate the brake lever when the calipers are removed. This could cause fluid to leak out from the actuating
pistons.

Support the bike so that the front wheel is raised from the ground.
Loosen and remove the nut (1) on left side of the axle.
Recover the washer (2).

Loosen the axle clamp bolts (11) on the ends of the fork legs.

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 Front wheel

Working from the left-hand side, use a plastic mallet to drive the axle (10) out from the opposite side and remove it.

Remove the wheel and recover the spacers (3) and (9).

Overhauling the front wheel

Wheel bearings
Before checking the dimensions, check the wear on wheel bearings (5). Check for wear by hand after cleaning and
degreasing the bearings in their seats.
Turn the inner race.
Check the amount of radial (A) and axial (B) play. Excessive play will cause vibration and make the bike unstable and
therefore the bearings must be renewed.

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 Front wheel

Position a drift (A) against the inner race of the bearing (5).

Tap the drift with a hammer to drive out the bearing. Apply the drift at different points to keep the bearing square
during removal.

Importante
Once removed, the used bearings and seals must not be refitted.
Before fitting new bearings, check that the housing is clean and free from scoring and damage.
Grease the bearing seat and then push the new bearing (5) into its seat.
Using a tubular drift (D) which bears only on the outer ring of the bearing, drive the bearing fully into its seat.
Use the same method to install the seals (4).
Ensure that spacer (7) is fitted between the two wheel bearings.

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 Front wheel

Notes
Wheels must be rebalanced after repair, maintenance and overhaul operations.

Front wheel axle

Check the wheel axle for straightness.
Roll the axle on a reference surface and measure maximum distortion using a feeler gauge (see Sect. C 1.1, Front
wheel).

Overhauling the front wheel

After you have checked the bearings, check the rims as follows.
Visually inspect the rim for cracks, scoring and deformation: change the wheel if damaged.
Insert the axle in the wheel and mount it on two fixed reference blocks.
Using a dial gauge, measure rim runout and out-of-round relative to the wheel axle (see Sect. C 1.1, Front wheel).
If the values measured are not within the tolerance limits, renew the wheel.

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 Front wheel

Refitting the front wheel

When all the necessary inspections have been completed, refit the wheel as follows.
Lubricate and fit the spacers (3) and (9) to the seal rings on the sides of the wheel hub.

Install the complete wheel between the fork legs.

Lubricate the shank and thread of the wheel axle (10).
Fit service tool no. 8000.70139 on the wheel axle (10).
Drive the axle (10) fully home into the wheel hub, inserting the locating peg of the service tool in the special notches
at the bottom end of the fork.

Fit the washer (2) on the end of the axle.

Grease the thread and the underside of the head of the axle lock nut (1), then screw it on.
Tighten the nut (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

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 Front wheel

Refit the front brake calipers complete with hoses securing them with the bolts (A).

Warning
Do not operate the brake lever when the calipers are removed. This could cause fluid to leak out from the actuating
pistons.

Check that the brake discs turn freely inside the calipers.
Before tightening the axle clamp bolts (11), lower the bike to the ground and push up and down on the handlebars to
load the suspension so the fork legs will become properly seated onto the wheel axle.
Lubricate the bolts (11).
Tighten the bolts (11) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings), in the sequence 1-2-1.

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 Front wheel

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 Front fork

2 - Front fork

1 Bolt
2 Bolt
3 Top yoke
4 Bottom yoke
5 Right fork leg assembly
6 Left fork leg assembly
7 Right inner tube assembly
8 Spring kit
9 Dust seal
10 Circlip
11 Seal
12 Collar
13 Top bush
14 Spacer
15 Outer tube
16 Top cap assembly
17 Left inner tube assembly
18 Seals kit
19 Overhaul kit
20 Bolt

Parts catalogue

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 Front fork

FRONT FORKS
handlebar and controls

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Notes
Not all parts shown are available separately as spares: however they are indicated for clearer explanation of the
procedure.

Removal of the front forks

Before removing the front forks, it is first necessary to remove the following parts:

Operation Section reference

Remove the front brake calipers G 3, Removal of the front brake
system
Remove the front mudguard E 4, Removal of the front mudguard
Remove the front wheel G 1, Removal of the front wheel
Remove the headlight fairing E 1, Removal of the headlight fairing

Loosen the clamp bolts (1) holding the fork legs to the top yoke (3).
Loosen the clamp bolts (2) securing the fork legs to the bottom yoke (4).
Withdraw the fork legs (5) and (6) downwards in order to carry out to all the necessary overhaul operations.

Overhauling the front forks

Notes
It is advisable to loosen the top cap (16) when the fork is still fitted to the motorcycle.

Notes
The service tools required for front fork overhaul are listed in Section C 4, Specific tools for the frame.

Unscrew the top cap (16).

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 Front fork

Disassembly of the front fork

Restrain the lock nut (A) with a hex wrench.
Using a second wrench, unscrew and remove the cap (16) with its O-ring seal from the damper.

Withdraw the complete spring kit (8), recovering, in order, the spring (B), the preload tube (C) and the bush.

Drain the oil from inside the leg by pumping with the outer tube (15) and the damper (F).

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 Front fork

Warning
This movement generates pressure so that the oil will be rapidly expelled from the fork.
Aim the jet of oil into a previously prepared container and avoid contact with fork oil.

Clamp the inner tube (7) in a vice with soft-faced jaws.

Withdraw the damper assembly (F).

Slip the dust seal (9) off the outer tube (15), prising it off with a screwdriver.

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 Front fork

Remove the circlip (10).

Important
Take care not to damage the inner tube (7) and the seat of circlip (10) in the outer tube (15).
Slide the outer tube (15) off the inner tube (7).
From the outer tube, remove:
- oil seal (11);
- collar (12);
- lower bush (13);
- preload tube (14);
- top bush (13).

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 Front fork

Inspection of the front fork

Place the spring on a flat surface and measure the free length (L).
Service limit:
- 270 mm.

Renew the spring if the length is not within the specified limit.
Inspect the outer surfaces of both fork inner tubes and the internal surfaces of both outer tubes. They must be free
from scoring, steps, or dents.
Check that the outer tubes are straight:
- maximum permissible error 0.10 mm.
Whenever the inner tube is removed from the outer tube it is good practice to renew the bushes (13).

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 Front fork

Check the collar (12) for distortion in the area indicated. Renew if distorted.

Reassembly of the front fork

Clamp the inner tube in a vice.
Protect the end of the inner tube (7) with tape.

Important
Before installation, smear the sliding edges of oil seal (11) with fork oil or oil seal grease.
Install the oil seal (11) with the marked surface facing the dust seal (9).

Fit the following components to the inner tube (7):

- dust seal (9);
- circlip (10);
- oil seal (11);
- collar (12).

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 Front fork

Install the following components in the outer tube (15) using the oil seal installer no. 88713.3204:
- bush (13);
- preload tube (14);
- bush (13).

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 Front fork

Notes
Before assembling the inner and outer fork tube (15), lubricate the sliding surfaces of the bushes (13) with fork oil.

Assemble the inner tube (7) with the outer tube (15).
Push the collar (12) and the oil seal (11) using the oil seal installer no. 88713.3204.
Fit the circlip (10) and the dust seal (9).

Important
The outer tube must slide freely on the inner tube. Handle the inner and outer tubes with your hands only. The use of
tools might damage the oil seals and bushes.

Pour half the specified quantity of oil in each fork leg (Sect. C 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids).
Pump with tool 88713.3203 to force the oil to fill internal volume completely.
Slide both the damper and outer tube fully down the inner tube.
Pour the remaining oil into the fork leg and measure the oil level.

Important
Keep the fork leg vertical when measuring the oil level. Make sure the oil level is the same in both fork legs.
Recommended oil:

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 Front fork

SHELL ADVANCE FORK 7.5 or DONAX TA

Standard capacity:
450 cc (right fork).
470 cc (left fork).

The quantity of oil affects fork response during the final part of the compression stroke.
High oil level increases compression loading, low oil level will decrease it.
Before reassembly, remove any oil from the spring kit (8).

Install the spring kit (8) comprised of, in order, bush (D), preload tube (C) and spring (B), on the inner tube (7).

Restrain lock nut (A) and screw the top cap (16) complete with its O-ring on to the damper rod (8).
Tighten the top cap (16) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Refitting the front forks

Refit the fork legs, positioning them at the height shown in the figure relative to the upper surface of the bottom yoke.

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 Front fork

Warning
The difference in height between the two fork legs must be no greater than 0.1 mm.

Locate the fork legs (5) and (6) in the bottom yoke (4).
Locate the fork legs (5) and (6) in the top yoke (3).
Grease the threads and the undersides of the heads of bolts (1) and (2).
Tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) the clamp bolts (1) and (2) securing the legs to the
bottom yoke (4) and to the top yoke (3): tighten the bolts (2) in the sequence 1-2-3-1-2.

Important
If the clamp bolts (1) and (2) were fully removed on disassembly, smear the threads with the specified grease before
tightening.

Refit any parts removed from the frame:

Operation Section reference

Refit the front mudguard E 4, Refitting the front mudguard
Refit the front wheel G 1, Refitting the front wheel
Refit the headlight fairing E 1, Refitting the headlight fairing
Refit the front brake calipers G 3, Refitting the front brake system

Warning
Do not ride the motorcycle without the front mudguard. The front mudguard also acts as a support for the brake hose
and prevents the brake hose from touching the wheel when braking.

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 Hydraulic front brake

3 - Hydraulic front brake

1 Pad retaining pin and clip

2 Bolt
3 Right brake caliper
4 Sealing washer
5 Bleed valve
6 Banjo bolt
7 Dust cap
8 Calipers–master cylinder hose
9 Pair of brake pads
10 Left brake caliper
11 Spring
12 Hose guide
13 Brake disc
14 Bolt
15 Support
16 Bolt

Parts catalogue

FRONT AND REAR WHEELS

FRONT BRAKE

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 Hydraulic front brake

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Maintenance operations

Warning
Brake fluid is corrosive and will damage paintwork. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In case of accidental contact,
wash the affected area with abundant running water and consult a doctor if necessary.

For maintenance instructions (brake pad wear check and renewal, brake fluid change, etc.) refer to Section D 4,
Maintenance operations.

Removal of the front brake system

Operation Section reference

Drain the braking system D 4, Draining the brake circuits

Loosen the bolts (16) securing support (15) and withdraw hose (8) from the support.
Remove the hose guides (12) from the hoses.

Unscrew the banjo bolts (6) on both brake calipers and disconnect the calipers from the hoses (8), recovering the
sealing washers (4).
Free the hose (8) from the guide (A) on the mudguard.
Unscrew the two bolts (2) securing the right-hand front caliper (3) to the fork leg.
Repeat the operation for the left-hand caliper (10).

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 Hydraulic front brake

Removal of the brake discs

Operation Section reference

Remove the front wheel G 1, Removal of the front wheel

The front discs are comprised of a rotor.

Undo the bolts (14) securing the brake discs to the wheel and remove the discs (13) from both sides of the wheel.

Refitting the brake discs

Before refitting the brake disc to the wheel, clean all contact surfaces thoroughly and apply threadlocker to the
threads of retaining bolts (14).
Screw in the bolts (14) securing the front brake disc (13) to the front wheel in the sequence: 1-3-5-2-4-6.

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 Hydraulic front brake

Tighten the bolts to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Operation Section reference

Refit the front wheel G 1, Refitting the front wheel

Overhauling the front brake components

Important
Critical safety components. The brake caliper manufacturer advises against any servicing of the internal components
of calipers. Incorrect overhaul of this component could endanger rider safety.

Operations should be limited to renewal of the pads, fasteners and the bleed valve assembly.
Refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this section for indications on renewal of the above components.
The brake disc must be clean without any signs of rust, oil, grease or dirt and no deep scoring.
To check brake disc wear, refer to the service limits given in the paragraph “Hydraulic brakes”(Sect. C 1.1).

Refitting the front brake system

Warning
When refitting the brake system, take care to position correctly the end fittings of the hose (8) connecting the master
cylinder and calipers (3) and (10).

Warning
If incorrectly positioned, the hose can affect brake operation and foul moving parts.

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 Hydraulic front brake

Fit the sealing washers (4) to either side of the connection fitting when connecting the brake hose to the brake caliper.
Reconnect the hose (8) to the front brake calipers (10) and (3) and tighten the bolts (6) to their specified torque
(Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Fit the calipers (3) and (10) over the disc.
Grease the threads and undersides of the heads of the bolts (2).
Fit the two bolts (2) securing the caliper to the fork leg.
Tighten the bolts (2) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Locate the brake master cylinder-lever assembly (Sect. F 3, Refitting the front brake master cylinder).

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 Hydraulic front brake

If removed, insert the clips (12) in the front brake hose grommets (B), positioning them so that the tabs (C) lie flush
with the tops of the grommets, without however altering their position relative to the brake hoses.

Notes
Apply the recommended lubricant to facilitate insertion of the clips.

Position the grommets so they seat against the sleeves (D), orienting the clips so that they are positioned on the
front sides of the hoses, as shown in the figure.

Notes
The purpose of the sleeves (D) and (C) is to provide positioning reference points for the brake hose guides; it is
therefore important not to alter their positions on the brake hoses.

Insert the hose (8) in the headlight support (15), making sure that the guide (12) is positioned correctly.
The special shape of the guide restrains the movement of hose (8) during braking.
Position the hose as shown in the figure.
Tighten the bolts (16) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Operation Section reference

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 Hydraulic front brake

Fill the brake circuit D 4, Filling the brake circuits

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 Rear wheel

4 - Rear wheel

1 Circlip
2 Nut
3 Washer
4 Bush
5 Valve
6 Wheel

Parts catalogue

FRONT AND REAR WHEELS

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the rear wheel

Place the motorcycle on the rear service stand and engage 1st gear.
Remove the circlip (1) securing the wheel nut.

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 Rear wheel

Using a suitable socket, loosen the wheel nut (2).

Fully unscrew the wheel nut (2), then slide of the washer (3) and the bush (4).
Remove the rear wheel (6) from the motorcycle.

Overhauling the rear wheel

Inspect the condition of the rear wheel.
As the rear wheel has no bearings, it should be supported on the service tool part no. 88713.1073.

Notes
This service tool can also be used to install the wheel on a balancing machine.

Overhauling the rear wheel

Inspect the wheel as described below.
Visually inspect the rim for cracks, scoring and deformation: change the wheel if damaged.
Fit the wheel on service tool no. 88713.1073 using the original fasteners.
Using a dial gauge, measure rim run-out and out-of-round relative to the wheel axle (see Sect. C 1.1, Rear wheel).
If the values measured are not within the tolerance limits, renew the wheel.

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 Rear wheel

Refitting the rear wheel

Clean the mating surfaces. Fit the rear wheel (6) on the axle (C), inserting the pins (A) in the corresponding holes (B)
in the wheel.
Install the tapered spacer (4) on the axle, with the tapered side facing the wheel, as shown in the figure.
Fit the washer (3).
Apply grease to the axle thread and to the contact face of the nut (2).
Fit the nut and tighten it to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Install the safety clip (1), positioning it as shown in the figure.

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Rear wheel

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 Rear swingarm

5 - Rear swingarm

1 Rear swingarm
2 Bearing
3 Spacer
4 Seal
5 Bush
6 Roller bearing
7 RH spacer
8 LH spacer
9 Swingarm pivot shaft
10 Special nut
11 Pin
12 Bolt
13 Plug
14 Upper drive chain slider
15 Bolt
16 Lower drive chain slider
17 Upper chain guard
18 Lower chain guard
19 Plug
20 Plate
21 Bolt
22 Heat shield
23 Circlip
24 Shim

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 Rear swingarm

25 O-ring
26 Caliper mounting bracket
27 Bolt
28 Hub assembly
29 Pin
30 Bolt
31 Nut
32 Splashguard
33 Bracket
34 Bush

Parts catalogue

REAR WHEEL AXLE

SWINGARM

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the rear eccentric hub

Before removing the rear brake disc, you must first remove the following parts.

Operation Section reference

Remove the rear wheel G 4, Removal of the rear wheel
Slacken off the drive chain D 4, Adjusting the chain tension
Remove the rear sprocket G 8, Removal of the rear sprocket
Remove the rear brake caliper G 6, Removal of the rear brake
system

Slacken off the bolts (12).

Remove the spacer (34) on the chain side and withdraw the stub axle (28) complete with brake disc from the
opposite side.

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 Rear swingarm

Remove the splashguard (32) by unscrewing the bolts (21) securing it to the bracket (33).

Remove the circlip (23) on the wheel side of the eccentric hub.

Remove the washer (24), the caliper mounting bracket (26) with the O-rings (25) and the other washer (24).

Withdraw the eccentric hub (28) from the chain side of the swingarm.

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 Rear swingarm

Important
The rear hub is a component particularly critical to the dynamic safety of the motorcycle. For this reason, any
overhaul of the internal components of the hub is strictly forbidden. The hub is available as complete assembly, part
no. 756.2.006.2A.

Refitting the rear eccentric hub

Refitting is the reverse of removal, with attention to the following points.
Before refitting, apply the recommended grease to the seat on the eccentric hub (28) of the caliper mounting bracket
(26) on which the rings (25), also greased, will be located.

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 Rear swingarm

If the caliper bracket locating pin (11) was removed, apply the recommended threadlocker on reassembly.

Fit the washer (24) on the hub (28).

Fit the caliper mounting bracket (with the 2 O-rings) on the hub, inserting the locating pin (11) on the swingarm in
the slot on the bracket (26) as shown.
Fit another washer (24).
Secure the caliper bracket in place by fiting the circlip (23) in the groove in the hub (28).

Apply the prescribed threadlocker to the bolts (12) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings).

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 Rear swingarm

Operation Section reference

Refit the rear brake caliper G 6, Refitting the rear brake system
Refit the rear sprocket G 8, Removal of the rear sprocket
Adjust the drive chain tension D 4, Adjusting the chain tension
Refit the rear wheel G 4, Refitting the rear wheel

Tension the drive chain as indicated in the paragraph “Adjusting the chain tension” in Section D 4.

Removal of the swingarm

Before removing the parts in question, you must first remove the following parts:

Operation Section reference

Remove the footrest brackets H 4, Removal of the footrest brackets
Remove the rear wheel G 4, Removal of the rear wheel
Slacken off the drive chain D 4, Adjusting the chain tension
Remove the rear sprocket G 8, Final drive
Remove the rear brake caliper G 6, Removal of the rear brake system
Remove the shock absorber and G 7, Removal of the rear shock
suspension tie-rod from the absorber
swingarm

You can check the play in the swingarm bearings while the swingarm (1) is still installed on the motorcycle frame.
Grasp the rear of the swingarm (1) and try to move it in the four directions shown by the arrows.
Any abnormal movement is a sign of worn bearings that could cause instability when riding.
Refer to the indications for checking swingarm bearing play in Section G 1, Wheel bearings.

Remove the eccentric rear hub as described in “Removal of the rear eccentric hub” in this section.
Free the speed sensor wiring from the lower chain slider (16) and from the heat shield (22) by unscrewing the bolts
(15) and (21).

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 Rear swingarm

Disconnect the speed sensor wiring connector (A) from the main wiring loom.

Unscrew the nut (10) and drive out the pivot bolt (9) using a suitable drift.

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 Rear swingarm

Withdraw the swingarm (1) from its seat sufficiently to recover the bush (5).

Where the right-hand side of the swingarm is attached to the frame, there are two internal spacers (8) and (7).
Disconnect the wiring connector (A) from speed sensor.

Remove the bolt (B) securing the rear brake fluid reservoir.

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 Rear swingarm

Inspecting the swingarm pivot shaft

Before refitting the swingarm pivot shaft, check it carefully for distortion.
Roll the shaft on a reference surface and measure maximum distortion using a feeler gauge (see Sect. C 1.1, Rear
wheel).

Renew the pivot shaft when distortion exceeds the specified limit or if cracked or otherwise damaged.

Overhauling the rear swingarm

Inside the swingarm (1), at the point at which it pivots on the frame, there are a pair of ball bearing races (2) on the
right-hand side and a pair of roller bearings (6) with seals (4) on the left-hand side.

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 Rear swingarm

To change the bearings, proceed as follows.

Remove the spacers (8) and (7) from the right-hand side of the swingarm and remove the bush (5) from the left-
hand side.

Remove the bearings (2), the seals (4) and the roller bearings (6) using a suitable punch and a press. Support the
swingarm and take care not to damage the bearing bores.

Important

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 Rear swingarm

Once removed, the bearings (2), seal rings (4) and roller bearings (6) must not be reinstalled.

Heat the entire swingarm up to 150 °C and support it.

Insert the new roller bearings (6) in the service tool no. 88713.1068 and install them from the outside into the bore
on the left–hand side of the swingarm.
Drive them in until the tool is fully seated against the swingarm.

Use the same tool to fit the new seals (4), positioned as shown in the sectional view, so that they seat against the
newly installed roller bearings.

To install the ball bearing races (2) you will need service tool no. 88713.2409 comprised of:

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 Rear swingarm

(A) - drift for internal bearings;

(A) - drift for external bearings;
(C) - guide pin.
Fit a new bearing (2) with the internal spacer (3) onto the drift (A) and position it on the interior of the right-hand
side support of the swingarm.

Insert the guide pin (C) into the previously mounted roller bearings and insert the other end in the bore in the tool
(A).

Drive the bearing (2) fully into the swingarm.

Fit the other new bearing (2) at the outer end of tool (A).
Using tool (A) as a stop, use tool (B) to drive the external bearing up against spacer (3): remove the tools.

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 Rear swingarm

Before refitting the swingarm (1), grease the ball bearings (2), roller bearings (6) and seals (4) with the
recommended grease.

Refitting the swingarm

If the swingarm has been disassembled, reassemble it referring to the exploded view at the beginning of this chapter.
Locate the swingarm assembly (1), making sure that spacers (7) and (8) are present on the RH side and that
the bush (5) is present on the LH side.

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 Rear swingarm

Lubricate the swingarm pivot shaft (9) with the recommended grease and insert it fully into the frame.

Lubricate the nut (10) with the recommended grease and screw it on the opposite end of the pivot shaft.
Tighten the nut (10) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Fit the upper chain guard (17), feeding the drive chain through it; apply threadlocker to the bolts (15) and tighten
them to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Reconnect the wiring connector (A) of the speed sensor and secure the rear brake fluid reservoir with the bolt (B)
using the prescribed threadlocker.

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 Rear swingarm

Operation Section reference

Refit the shock absorber and tie-rod G 7, Refitting the rear suspension
to the swingarm
Refit the rear wheel G 4, Refitting the rear wheel
Refit the rear brake caliper G 6, Refitting the rear brake system
Refit the final drive assembly G 8, Final drive
Adjust the drive chain tension D 4, Adjusting the chain tension
Refit the footrest brackets H 4, Refitting the footrest brackets

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 Hydraulic rear brake

6 - Hydraulic rear brake

1 Banjo bolt
2 Sealing washer
3 Pair of brake pads
4 Rear brake hose
5 Bolt
6 Rear brake caliper
7 Dust cap
8 Bleed valve
9 Clip
10 Rear brake disc
11 Locating dowel
12 Bolt
13 Bolt
14 Pad retaining pin
15 Clamp

Parts catalogue

REAR WHEEL AXLE

REAR BRAKE

Important

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 Hydraulic rear brake

Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the rear brake system

Before removing the parts in question, you must first carry out the following operations:

Operation Section reference

Remove the banjo bolt securing the F 4, Removal of the rear brake
hose to the rear brake master master cylinder
cylinder and recover the sealing
washers
Remove the exhaust catalyser L 8, Removal of the exhaust system

Rear brake caliper and master cylinder

Unscrew and remove the banjo bolt (1) securing the hose (4) to the rear brake caliper and recover the sealing
washers (2).

Notes
For the sake of clarity the following photos show the swingarm removed from the motorcycle, however all the
operations described can also be carried out with the swingarm installed on the frame.

For the relative removal operations, refer to the exploded view in Sect. G 5, Rear swingarm.
Unscrew the bolts (A) and remove the heat shield (B).

Unscrew the bolts (C) and remove the lower chain slider (D).

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 Hydraulic rear brake

Remove the hose (4).

Unscrew the two bolts (5) securing the rear brake caliper to the caliper mounting bracket and remove the caliper (6).

Notes
See “Checking brake pad wear and changing brake pads” (Sect. D 4) for instructions on how to change the brake
pads.

Important
Critical safety components. The brake caliper manufacturer advises against servicing the internal components of
calipers or the master cylinder. Incorrect overhaul of this component could endanger rider safety.

Only the following parts should be renewed:

- brake caliper: pads, fasteners and bleed valve assembly;
- brake master cylinder: pedal, bleed valve assembly, reservoir and its parts (Sect. F 4, Rear brake control).
Refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this section for indications on renewal of the above components.

Removal of the rear brake disc

Operation Section reference

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 Hydraulic rear brake

Remove the rear wheel G 4, Removal of the rear wheel

Slacken off the drive chain D 4, Adjusting the chain tension
Remove the rear sprocket G 8, Removal of the rear sprocket
Remove the rear brake caliper G 6, Removal of the rear brake system

Unscrew and remove the four bolts (13) securing the brake disc to the stub axle and remove the rear brake disc (10).
If they are to be renewed, unscrew the bolts (12) from the hub and remove the locating pins (11).
The disc must be perfectly clean with no signs of rust, oil or grease deposits or other contaminants and must be free
of any deep scoring. Refer to Section C 1.1, Rear wheel for the brake disc wear tolerance limits.

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 Hydraulic rear brake

Refitting the rear brake disc

Proceed with refitting of the rear brake disc (10). Install the brake disc (10), positioning it so that the countersinks
(S) for the bolt heads are facing upwards.
Apply the recommended threadlocker and tighten the bolts (13) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings) in the sequence 1-2-3-4.

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 Hydraulic rear brake

Operation Section reference

Refit the rear brake caliper G 6, Refitting the rear brake system
Refit the rear sprocket G 8, Refitting the rear sprocket
Adjust the drive chain tension D 4, Adjusting the chain tension
Refit the rear wheel G 4, Refitting the rear wheel

Refitting the rear brake system

If the brake hoses are renewed or if one of the components of the rear brake system have been removed, make sure
that the hose connection fittings on the master cylinder and the caliper are correctly positioned.

Warning
If incorrectly positioned, the hose can affect brake operation and foul moving parts. Position the hose as shown in the
figure.

Fit the copper sealing washers (2) to either side of the hose end fittings when attaching the hose to the calipers and
master cylinder.

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 Hydraulic rear brake

After positioning the end fittings correctly, tighten the banjo bolts (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings).

Notes
For the sake of clarity the following photos show the swingarm removed from the motorcycle, however all the
operations described can also be carried out with the swingarm installed on the frame.
Position the rear brake hose (4) under the swingarm, securing it with the clip (E) to the speed sensor cable (F).
Route the hose (4) and cable (F) through the slot in the swingarm.
Fit the lower chain slider (D) with the bolts (C) using the recommended threadlocker.

Fit the heat shield (B) with the bolts (A), applying the recommended threadlocker, and tighten bolts (C) and (A) to
the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Fit the rear brake caliper (6) over the brake disc, aligning it with the holes in caliper mounting bracket.
Apply grease to the bolts (5) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

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 Hydraulic rear brake

Operation Section reference

Tighten the bolt securing the rear F 4, Refitting the rear brake master
brake master cylinder hose cylinder
Refit the catalyser L 8, Refitting the exhaust system

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 Rear suspension

7 - Rear suspension

1 Shock absorber
2 Tie rod
3 Plug
4 Bush
5 Bolt
6 Ball joint
7 Bolt
8 Rocker arm
9 Roller bearing
10 Seal
11 Spacer
12 Bolt
13 Spacer
14 Nut
15 Bolt
16 Special nut

Parts catalogue

REAR SUSPENSION

Important

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 Rear suspension

Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Rear suspension system

The rear suspension uses a fully adjustable progressive hydraulic monoshock (1). The system consists of an upper
rocker arm (8) and a non-adjustable tie-rod (19), which is fixed to the single-sided swingarm.
The swingarm pivots on the frame and the engine to achieve maximum rigidity; the rear end of the swingarm
supports the eccentric wheel hub which allows chain tension adjustment.
For adjustment of the rear shock absorber, refer to Section D 4, Adjusting the rear shock absorber.

Removal of the rear shock absorber

Operation Section reference

Remove the presilencer L 8, Removal of the exhaust system

To remove the rear shock absorber (1) from the swingarm and from the upper rocker arm, remove the rubber plug
(3) and remove the upper bolt (5) and lower bolt (15).

On removing the lower bolt (15), the lower ball-joint end fitting (6) of the tie-rod (2) is also released from the
swingarm. Recover the threaded bush (16) and the bushes (4) located either side of the lower ball joint of the tie-rod.

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 Rear suspension

Overhauling the rear shock absorber

Before dismantling the shock absorber, measure the spring preload length (L). The same length must be restored on
re-assembly.

Disassembly of the rear shock absorber

Slacken off the locknut (A) and the spring adjuster nut (B) with a pin wrench or special tool.
Remove the retaining ring (C) and the spring.

Visually inspect the shock absorber for oil leaks and other problems.
Renew the shock absorber if necessary.

Reassembly of the rear shock absorber

Fit the spring into its seat in the shock absorber with the tapered end towards the lower mounting.
Refit the retaining ring (C).
Screw in the spring adjuster nut (B) to obtain the previously measured length (L).

Notes
One full turn of the adjuster nut changes the length of the spring by 1.5 mm.

Tighten down the lock nut (A) against the adjuster (B).

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 Rear suspension

Removal of the rear suspension rocker arm

Disconnect the top of the rear shock absorber from the rocker arm as described in “Removal of the rear shock
absorber” in this chapter.
Separate the linkage assembly (2) from the rocker arm (8) by undoing the bolt (7) and recover the bushings (6) at
the sides of the ball joint (4).

Before removing the rocker arm (8) from the frame, check the play of its internal needle roller bearings (9).
Grasp the rear end of the rocker arm and push and pull it in all directions.
If excessive play is encountered, the bearings need to be renewed.
To remove the rocker arm (8) from the frame, unscrew the nut (14) and withdraw the spacer (13).
Slide out the pivot bolt (12) and remove the rocker arm assembly (8) from the frame.

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 Rear suspension

Overhauling the rear suspension rocker arm

Disassembly of the rear suspension rocker arm

The rocker arm's movement is obtained by needle roller bearings (9) rotating on an inner spacer (13). Two seals (10)
keep the lubricant inside the roller cages.
Remove the inner spacer (13) and remove the seals and the roller bearings using a drift with outside diameter Ø
21.6 mm.

Important
Take care not to damage the bearing housings on the rocker arm while driving out the bearings. Once disturbed, the
seals (10) and needle roller bearings (9) may not be refitted.

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 Rear suspension

Reassembly of the rear suspension rocker arm

Insert a new roller cage (9) on the service tool no. 88713.1071 and lubricate the rocker arm bore with the
recommended grease.

Support the rocker arm and drive the needle roller bearing into the rocker arm bore until the tool seats against rocker
arm.

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 Rear suspension

Important
Make sure to drive the bearings perfectly square into the bore without jamming. Use a press, if necessary.

Fit a new seal (10) onto the drift with its metal side outermost. Seat it against the previously installed bearing (9).
Repeat the above procedure for the other roller bearing (9) and the other seal (10).

Lubricate the bearings and seals with the recommended grease and insert the inner spacer (13).

Refitting the rear suspension

Lubricate the shank and thread of the bolt (12) and the underside of the head of the nut (14) with the recommended
grease.
Insert the complete rocker arm assembly between the frame supports, as shown in the figure.
Drive the bolt (12) fully home against the frame.
Fit the washer (13) and the nut (14).
Restrain the nut and tighten the bolt to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Apply grease to the thread and under the head of the bolts (5) and (7) that secure the upper part of the shock
absorber to the tie-rod and insert them in the rocker arm.
Position the shock absorber (1) with the reservoir at the top, on the left-hand side of the frame.
Insert the upper ball joint of the shock absorber, aligning it with the rear hole in the rocker arm.
Tighten the bolt (5) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Install the bushes (4) on both the ball joint end fittings of the tie-rod (2).

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 Rear suspension

Insert the upper end of the tie-rod in the rocker arm and tighten the bolt (7) to its specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame
torque settings).

Insert the lower end of the shock absorber (1) and the tie-rod (2) in the swingarm.
Grease the sliding surface of the threaded bush (16) and insert it in the bore on the swingarm.
Grease the thread, underside and sliding surface of the lower retaining bolt (15) and insert it in the swingarm from
the right-hand side.
Tighten the bolt (15) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Refit the plug (3) in the bore on the swingarm.

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 Rear suspension

Operation Section reference

Refit the presilencer L 8, Refitting the exhaust system

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 Final drive

8 - Final drive

1 Circlip
2 Nut with left-hand thread
3 Washer
4 Nut
5 Rear sprocket flange
6 Washer
7 Bush
8 Bush
9 Cush drive bush
10 Rear sprocket
11 Seal
12 Collar
13 Chain
14 Front sprocket
15 Bolt
16 Front sprocket retaining plate
17 Bolt
18 Front sprocket cover

Parts catalogue

GEARBOX
REAR WHEEL AXLE

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 Final drive

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Inspecting the final drive

To check wear of the final drive, carry out a visual inspection of the front sprocket (14) and the rear sprocket (10). If
the teeth are found to worn as shown in the figure (dotted line), the sprocket must be renewed.

To check the amount of wear on the chain (13), keep the chain taut and measure 16 links.
If the length (L) is greater than 254 mm, the chain should be renewed.

Important
The rear sprocket (10), front sprocket (14) and chain (13) must all be renewed together.

Removal of the front sprocket

Remove the LH footrest bracket assembly as described in Section H 4, Removal of the footrest brackets.
Undo the bolts (17) and remove the sprocket cover (18).

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 Final drive

Slacken the chain (Sect. D 4, Adjusting the chain tension).

Engage a low gear and unscrew the two screws (15) on the sprocket retaining plate (16).
Remove the retaining plate (16) from the gearbox output shaft.
Slide the front sprocket (14) with the chain (9) off the gearbox output shaft and take the chain (13) off the sprocket.

Refitting the front sprocket

Check that the splines of the gearbox output shaft and the sprocket are in perfect condition.
Hook the chain (13) onto the sprocket (14).
Install the front sprocket on gearbox output shaft (B) as shown in the figure. Push the sprocket beyond the groove
(A).

Fit the sprocket retaining plate (16) to the gearbox output shaft (B) and turn it in the groove (A) until the holes in the
plate (16) are aligned with the threaded holes in the sprocket (14): position the retaining plate with the rounded edge
facing the sprocket.
Apply threadlocker to the threads of the screws (15).
Engage first gear.

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 Final drive

Tighten the screws (15) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Important
Adjust the chain tension as described in Section D 4, Adjusting the chain tension.

Fit the sprocket cover (18) and tighten the bolts (17) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Renewal of the oil seal on the gearbox output shaft

Notes
For clarity, the figures show the engine removed from the frame. The procedure can also be carried out with the
engine installed in the frame.

After removing the front sprocket as described previously, prise the oil seal (11) out of the crankcase with the aid of
screwdriver.

Important
The old oil seal and O-ring must be discarded and new ones fitted on reassembly.

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 Final drive

Install the bush of service tool no. 88713.2060 on the output shaft. Lubricate the new oil seal (11) and press it into
position.
Using the drift of the tool, drive the oil seal home so that seats against the crankcase bearing.

Refit the front sprocket as described in the previous paragraph.

Removal of the rear sprocket

Operation Section reference

Slacken the chain D 4, Adjusting the chain tension
Remove the rear wheel G 4, Removal of the rear wheel

Remove the circlip (1) from the nut (2).

Restrain the stub axle against rotation and, using a socket wrench, loosen the nut (2).

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 Final drive

Fully unscrew the nut (2) and remove the washer (3) and the flange (5) complete with the rear sprocket.

Recover the collar (12).

Using a mallet, tap the sprocket flange (5) with the cush drive bushes (9) off the sprocket (10).

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 Final drive

Check the cush drive bushes (9) for signs of wear and, if necessary, remove from the sprocket flange and renew
them.

Refitting the rear sprocket

Refitting is the reverse of removal; ensure that all mating surfaces and the undersides of the retaining nuts (4) of the
cush drive bushes (9) are lubricated with the recommended grease.

Check for wear following the instructions given at the beginning of this section.
Insert the rear wheel stub axle (C) in the hub (D).
Install the tapered spacer (6) on the axle (C), with the tapered side facing the axle, as shown in the figure.
Fit the chain (13) to the rear sprocket (10), inserting the sprocket teeth in the chain links.
Fit the sprocket (10) on the axle.
Fit the washer (3) on the axle.
Apply grease to the axle thread and to the contact face of the nut (2).
Fit the nut and tighten it to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

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 Final drive

Install the safety clip (1), positioning it on the nut (2) as shown in the figure.

Operation Section reference

Refit the rear wheel G 4, Refitting the rear wheel
Adjust the chain tension D 4, Adjusting the chain tension

Washing the chain

Chains with O-rings must be washed in oil, diesel fuel or paraffin (kerosene).
Do not use petrol, trichloroethylene or other solvents, which could damage the rubber O-rings. For the same reason
use only sprays specifically formulated for use with O-ring chains.

Lubricating the chain

Chains with O-rings are lubricated and sealed to protect the O-rings themselves against wear in the pin/bushing area.
However, these chains need lubricating at regular intervals to protect metal parts of the chain and the O rings.
Lubrication also serves to keep the O-rings soft and pliable to ensure the maximum sealing efficiency.
Using a brush, apply a thin protective film of high-density engine oil along the entire length of the chain both inside
and outside (see specifications in Sect. C 2, Fuel, lubricants and other fluids).

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 H - Impianto elettrico

0H - Impianto elettrico
1 - Handlebar 3
Removal of the handlebar 4
Refitting the handlebar 6

2 - Steering 9
Adjusting the steering head bearings 10
Steering angle adjustment 11
Removal of the steering head components 12
Refitting the steering head components 15

4 - Footrest brackets 21
Removal of the footrest brackets 22
Refitting the footrest brackets 25

5 - Sidestands 30
Removal of the sidestand 31
Refitting the sidestand 33

6 - Frame inspection 34
Disassembly of structural components and the frame 35
Removal of the rear subframe 35
Checking the frame 36
Reassembly of structural components and the frame 37

7 - Tail light and number plate holder 39

Removal of the tail light 41
Refitting the tail light 43
Removal of the number plate holder 47
Refitting the number plate holder 48
Removal of the rear turn signals 50
Refitting the rear turn signals 50

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 Handlebar

1 - Handlebar

1 Upper clamp
2 Bolt
3 Bolt
4 Handlebar
5 Grips
6 Spacer
7 Washer
8 Lower clamp
9 Nut
10 Washer

Parts catalogue

HANDLEBAR AND CONTROLS

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the handlebar

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 Handlebar

Operation Section reference

Remove the LH and RH hand guards E 1, Removal of the hand guards -
rearview mirrors
Remove the throttle twistgrip F 1, Removal of the throttle twistgrip
Remove the right-hand and left- P 5, Checking the indicating devices
hand handlebar switches
Remove the front brake lever F 3, Removal of the front brake master
cylinder
Remove the clutch lever F 2, Removal of the clutch master
cylinder assembly

Unscrew and remove the bolts (3) securing the upper clamp (1).
Remove the upper clamp (1).
Remove the handlebar (4) from its seat on the top yoke.

Slide the grips (5) off the handlebar (4).

While counterholding the nuts (9), unscrew the bolts (2) and remove the lower clamps (8) from the top yoke.

Remove the bolts (2), the lower clamps (8) and the washers (7) and (10).

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 Handlebar

Refitting the handlebar

Refit the grips (5) to the handlebar (4).
If the spacers (6) were removed from the top yoke, lubricate with silicone spray.
Seat the spacers (6) in the bores (A) in the top yoke, orienting them as shown in the figure.

Important
To drive in the spacers (6), use a drift that bears only on the outer ring (B) while applying a counterforce on zone (C)
on the underside of the top yoke.

On completion of the operation, clean all excess lubricant from the components.

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 Handlebar

Locate the lower clamps (8) on the top yoke.

Fit the bolts (2) in the clamps (8), screw on the nuts (9) complete with washers (7) and (10).
Tighten the bolts (2) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) while counterholding the nuts (9).
Position the handlebar (4) in its seat on the lower clamps (8).

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 Handlebar

Position and orientate the handlebar so that the punch marks (A) are equidistant from the lower clamps and aligned
with the faces of the clamps.

Apply the recommended grease to the threads and undersides of the heads of the bolts (3).
Refit the upper clamp (1) and insert the bolts (3).

Notes
Position the upper clamp so that arrows (D) are pointing to the rear.

Tighten the bolts (3) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) in the sequence 1-2-3-4-1-2, as
shown in the figure.

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 Handlebar

Operation Section reference

Refit the front brake lever F 3, Refitting the front brake master
cylinder
Refit the right-hand and left-hand P 5, Checking the indicating devices
handlebar switches
Refit the throttle twistgrip F 1, Refitting the throttle twistgrip
Refit the clutch lever F 2, Refitting the clutch master cylinder
assembly
Refit the LH and RH hand guards E 1, Refitting the hand guards - rearview
mirrors

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 Steering

2 - Steering

1 Bolt
2 Top yoke
3 Nut
4 Seal
5 Bearing
6 Bearing
7 Seal
8 Washer
9 Bottom yoke
10 Adjuster screw
11 Nut
12 Headlight support
13 Bolt
14 Spacer
15 Rubber
16 Nut
17 Instrument panel
18 Bush
19 Rubber mounting

Parts catalogue

HEADLIGHT & INSTR. PANEL

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 Steering

HANDLEBAR AND CONTROLS

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Adjusting the steering head bearings

Notes
See Section D 4, Adjusting the steering head bearings for adjustment of steering head bearing play.

If the steering head bearings cannot be adjusted correctly, check the bearings (5) and (6) for wear and, if necessary,
renew them as described in “Removal of the steering head components” in this section.

Steering angle adjustment

Loosen the nuts (11).
Loosen the adjuster screws (10) on both sides of the bottom yoke.

Use a reference block (A) with thickness 15 mm, inserted in the fork sleeve, at the highest part near the bottom

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 Steering

yoke, or use a gauge.

Turn the front forks to the right until the spacer (A) is seated against the frame top tube.

Turn the adjuster screw (10) on the opposite side to bring it into contact with the stop on the steering head.
Apply threadlocker to the thread of nut (11).
Hold the adjuster screw (10) firm and tighten the nut (11).
Turn the forks to the opposite side: and repeat the process to adjust the other screw and tighten the relative lock nut.

Removal of the steering head components

Operation Section reference

Remove the headlight fairing E 1, Removal of the headlight fairing
Disconnect the instrument panel P 1, Routing of wiring on frame
from the wiring loom
Remove the fork legs G 2, Removal of the front forks

Unscrew and remove the bolts (G) securing the upper clamp (H).
Remove the upper clamp (H).
Remove the handlebar (L) from its seat on the top yoke.

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 Steering

Notes
All parts fitted to the top and bottom yokes, including the wiring and control cables, can remain on the motorcycle
provided they do not hinder the following operations.

It is possible to remove the instrument panel (17) by unscrewing the nuts (16).
Remove the headlight support (12), unscrewing the bolts (13) securing it to the top yoke (2).

Withdraw the headlight support (12) towards the front and disconnect the headlight wiring (Sect. P 1, Routing of
wiring on frame).
Remove the headlight support (12).
Loosen the bolt (1) securing the top yoke (2) to the steering stem nut (3).
Remove the top yoke (2).

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 Steering

With the service tool no. 88713.1058 loosen the nut (3) and unscrew it from the steering stem.
Slide the oil seal (4), the inner race (A) and the ball race (B) of the upper bearing (5) off the steering stem.
Remove the bottom yoke (9) complete with the steering stem from the frame tube.
Remove the ball race (B) of the lower bearing (6).
The inner race (A) of the lower bearing (6) and the relative oil seal (7) will remain on the steering stem.

Using a universal puller (see figure) remove the inner race (A) and the spacer (8) from the steering stem, taking care
not to damage the seat.

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 Steering

Important
Once disturbed, the oil seals (4) and (7) and the bearings (4) and (6) must not be refitted.

Using a suitable drift, remove the outer bearing races (C) from the steering head. Proceed with extreme care to avoid
damaging the seats.

Refitting the steering head components

Important
The steering head bearings (5) and (6) are identical but in no case may their components be swapped around during
reassembly.

Clean all contact surfaces and lubricate with the recommended grease.

To fit the outer races (C) of the bearings (5) and (6) to the steering head, use the service tool no. 88713.1062 and
proceed as follows:
- heat the steering head to 150 °C;
- fit the outer races (C) in their seats on the steering head;
- fit the fixed bush (D, with threaded hole) of the tool into the lower race;
- fit the other movable bush (E) into the upper end of the tool and drive it fully home against the upper bearing race;
- tighten the nut (F) and use a wrench to seat the outer rings (C) in position in frame tube;
- leave the tool assembled until the steering head has cooled down to ensure that bearings are properly seated.

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 Steering

Insert the washer (8), oil seal (7) (with the rim facing upwards) and inner race (A) of bottom bearing (6) onto the
steering stem after heating it for about 10 minutes to 120 °C.
Fit tool no. 88713.1072 into the steering stem. Keep the inner race (A) pressed against the dust seal (7) by hand for
at least 15 seconds.
Lubricate the inner bearing race (A) with the recommended grease.
Fit the ball race (B) on the stem with the smaller diameter of the cage facing upwards and grease the ball race.
Insert the steering stem in steering head and push it in until it is axially seated.

Fit the bottom yoke assembly (9) to the frame.

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 Steering

Grease the ball race (B) and fit it to outer race (C) of the top bearing.

Fit the inner race (A) of the upper bearing (5) to the steering head, with the larger diameter side of the race facing
upwards.

Install the dust seal (4) with the flat side facing upwards.

Grease adjusting ring nut (3) and tighten it by hand up against the oil seal (4).
Fit service bush no. 88713.1058 to the steering stem nut (3) and fit the torque wrench to the bush.
Tighten the steering stem nut (3) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

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 Steering

Fit the top yoke (2) on the steering stem nut (3), aligning the fork leg bores with the corresponding bores on the
bottom yoke. Relocate the fork legs as described in Section G 2, Refitting the front forks.
Grease the bolt (1).
Tighten the bolt (1) on the top yoke to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Reconnect the headlight wiring (Sect. P 1, Routing of wiring on frame).

Refit the headlight support (12) and tighten the bolts (13) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

If removed, fit the vibration damping rubbers (19) to the instrument panel (17), screwing them in by hand: the sides

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 Steering

with the shorter thread should be facing the instrument panel. Fit the bush (18) to the centre rubber, screwing it on
by hand.
Locate the instrument panel (12) on the support and tighten the nuts (16).

Apply the recommended grease to the threads and undersides of the heads of the bolts (G).
Refit the clamp (H) and insert the bolts (G).

Notes
Position the upper clamp so that arrows (M) are pointing to the rear.

Tighten the bolts (G) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) in the sequence 1-2-3-4-1-2, as
shown in the figure.

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 Steering

Operation Section reference

Refit the headlight fairing E 1, Refitting the headlight fairing
Connect the instrument panel to the P 1, Routing of wiring on frame
main wiring loom
Refit the fork legs G 2, Refitting the front forks

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 Footrest brackets

4 - Footrest brackets

1 Rubber mounting
2 Washer
3 Bolt
4 Pin
5 Ring
6 Spring
7 Right front footrest
8 Right footrest bracket
9 Ball
10 Plate
11 Rubber mounting
12 Spring
13 Bolt
14 Footrest rubber
15 Plate
16 Bolt
17 Washer
18 Left footrest bracket
19 Bolt
20 Left front footrest
21 Bush
22 Right rear footrest
23 Left rear footrest

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 Footrest brackets

Parts catalogue

R.H. FOOTRESTS
L.H. FOOTRESTS

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the footrest brackets

The following removal operations apply to both left and right footrest brackets.
Remove the rear brake master cylinder (A) by unscrewing the bolts (B): slide the master cylinder (A) off the pushrod
(C).

Disconnect the rear brake sensor (D) from the main wiring harness.

To remove the left-hand footrest brackets, unscrew the bolt (E) securing the gearchange control (F) to the engine and
leave the gearchange assembly attached to the bracket.

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 Footrest brackets

Unscrew the bolts (13), bolt (19) securing the brackets to the engine block. Recover the washers (2) and (17).
Unscrew the two bolts (3) securing the bracket to the frame.

To detach the rear footrests (22) and (23) from the footrest brackets (8) and (18), remove the circlip (5) and pin (4)
to release the footrests, plates (10), balls (9) and springs (12).

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 Footrest brackets

To disassemble the front footrests (20) and (7), separate them from the brackets (18) and (8).
Remove the clip (5) and withdraw the pivot pin (4) to release the footrests and the spring (6).
Unscrew the bolts (16) an separate the rubbers (14) from the footrests; recover the plates (15) and the bushes (21).

Notes
The footrests may also be removed with the footrest brackets installed on the motorcycle.

Refitting the footrest brackets

The refitting procedure described below applies to the footrest brackets on both sides of the motorcycle.
For the front footrests (20) and (7), locate the bushes (21) and the plates (15), fit the rubbers (14) to the footrests
and tighten the bolts (16) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Position the springs (6) on the footrests as shown in the figure.
Insert the end of the springs in the holes in the brackets.
Grease the pin (4).
Insert the pin (4) from the top, securing it on the other side with the circlip (5).

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 Footrest brackets

For the rear footrests (22) and (23), insert the springs (12) in the brackets as shown in the figure.
Locate the balls (9) on the spring. Position the plates (10) on the footrest brackets as shown in the figure.

Notes
The side of the plate with the countersinking to the holes (L) must face the footrest bracket.

Push against the plates to allow insertion of the footrest with the spring and ball in the footrest brackets (8) and (18).
Grease the pin (4).
Insert the pin and secure it with the circlip (5).

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 Footrest brackets

Check the condition of rubber mountings (1) and (11) in the footrest brackets (8) and (18).
If new rubber mountings (1) are fitted, position them as shown in the figure.

Locate the right footrest bracket (8) in correspondence with the fixing points on the engine crankcase using washers
(2).
Apply the recommended rubber assembly lubricant to bolts (13).
Insert the bolts (13).
Apply the recommended grease to the bolt (3).
Insert the bolts (3).
Tighten the bolts (13) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Tighten the bolt (3) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

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 Footrest brackets

Locate the right footrest bracket (18) in correspondence with the fixing points on the engine crankcase using washers
(2) and (17).
Apply the recommended rubber assembly lubricant to bolts (13) and (19).
Insert the bolts (13) and (19).
Apply the recommended grease to the bolt (3).
Tighten the screws (13) and (19) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Tighten the bolt (3) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Reconnect the rear brake sensor (D) to the main wiring harness.

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 Footrest brackets

Fix the gearchange control to the engine crankcase, applying threadlocker to the bolt (E) and tightening it to the
specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Grease the end of pushrod (C) and insert it in rear brake master cylinder (A).
Apply the recommended threadlocker to the bolts (B).
Tighten the master cylinder retaining bolts (B) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

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 Sidestands

5 - Sidestands

1 Sidestand
2 Bolt
3 Bracket
4 Bolt
5 Switch
6 Spring
7 Plate
8 Pivot bolt
9 Nut

Parts catalogue

STANDS

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the sidestand

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 Sidestands

Operation Section reference

Remove the left-hand footrest H 4, Removal of the footrest brackets
bracket assembly

Disconnect the wiring connector of sidestand switch (5) from the main wiring loom (refer to Sect. P 1, Routing of
wiring on frame).

Unscrew the bolt (2) securing the sidestand bracket (3) to the engine and remove the complete sidestand assembly,
recovering the washers (11).

Disassembly of the sidestand

Unscrew the retaining bolt (4) and remove the sidestand switch (5).
Detach the sidestand return springs (6) from the pivot bolt located on the bracket (3) and remove them.

Unscrew the pivot bolt (8) securing the sidestand to the bracket and remove the sidestand (1) and the nut (9).

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 Sidestands

Inspecting the sidestand

Fit the sidestand leg to the bracket and check that there is no excessive play. Ensure that the ends of the sidestand
are not bent with respect to the shank.
A stand which shows signs of cracking must be renewed immediately.
For details of how to test the switch (5), see Section P 6, Checking protection and safety device components.

Reassembly of the sidestand

Grease the sidestand leg (1) and fit it to the bracket (3). Secure it with pivot bolt (8) and the nut (9).
Tighten the pivot bolt (8) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Position the sidestand return springs (6) and attach them to bracket (3) and stand leg (1).
Locate the switch (5) on the bracket so that is seats against the pivot bolt (8).
Fit the retaining bolt (4) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Refitting the sidestand

Apply the recommended threadlocker to the bolt (2).
Locate the sidestand bracket (3) on the frame and insert the bolt (2).
The bolt (2) must be tightened after refitting the left-hand footrest bracket.

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 Sidestands

Refit the left-hand footrest bracket (Sect. H 4, Refitting the footrest brackets).
Connect the sidestand switch wiring connector (5) to the main wiring loom.

For correct routing of the sidestand switch wiring, refer to the diagrams in Section P 1, Routing of wiring on frame.

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 Frame inspection

6 - Frame inspection

1 Frame
2 Rear subframe
3 Bolt
4 Bracket
5 Pin
6 Clamp
7 Spacer
8 Nut
9 Rubber
10 Bolt
11 Rubber mounting
12 Rubber
13 Bolt
14 Rubber
15 Circlip
16 Rubber mounting
17 Washer
18 Bolt

Parts catalogue

FRAME

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 Frame inspection

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Disassembly of structural components and the frame

Before carrying out dimensional checks on the frame, you must remove all the superstructures fitted, referring to the
removal procedures outlined in the sections of this manual.
The structural component of the frame (1) is the subframe (2).
The subframe (2) serves to support motorcycle superstructures and must therefore be in perfect condition.

Removal of the rear subframe

Disconnect all the wiring connections (Sect. P 1, Routing of wiring on frame) and remove the silencer
(Sect. L 8, Removal of the exhaust system).
Remove the circlips (15) and the rubber spacers (7) from the pins (5).

Unscrew the bolts (3) and (5) securing the rear subframe (2) to the frame (1).
Separate the rear subframe (3) from the main frame.
Recover nuts (8) and pins (5).

Checking the frame

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 Frame inspection

Check the dimensions of the frame against the dimensions shown here to determine whether it needs to be realigned
or renewed.

Important
Badly damaged frames must be renewed and not repaired. Any work carried out on the frame can give rise to
potential danger, infringing the requirements of EC directives concerning manufacturers' liability and general product
safety.

Frame dimensional diagram

Reassembly of structural components and the frame

If the two rubber strips (9) have been removed from the bracket (4), apply the recommended threadlocker to the
grooves in the rubber strips (9) and fit them to the seat support brcket as shown in the figure.

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 Frame inspection

Check that the clips (6) are installed on the frame.

Refitting the rear subframe

Locate the rear subframe (2) on the mountings on the frame (1).

Insert the pins (5) from the outside and secure on inside with the nuts (8).

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 Frame inspection

Fit the rubber spacers (7) to the pins (5) and secure then with the circlips (15).
Tighten the bolts (3) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Reconnect the wiring connections (Sect. P 1, Routing of wiring on frame) and refit the silencer (Sect. L 8, Refitting the
exhaust system).

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 Tail light and number plate holder

7 - Tail light and number plate holder

1 Tail light
2 Rubber mounting
3 Washer
4 Bolt
5 Bolt
6 Spacer
7 Rubber
8 Nut
9 Washer
10 Bolt
11 Tail light support
12 Plate
13 Bolt
14 Washer
15 Cover
16 Bolt
17 Washer
18 Bracket
19 Bolt
20 Washer
21 Left-hand support
22 Right-hand support
23 Bolt
24 Washer

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 Tail light and number plate holder

25 Nut
26 Number plate holder
27 Bolt
28 Number plate light
29 Spacer
30 Rubber mounting
31 Plate
32 Quick-release fastener
33 O-ring
34 Reflector
35 Nut
36 Bolt
37 Bolt
38 Bolt
39 Plate
40 Left turn signal
41 Bolt
42 Heat shield
43 Washer
44 Right turn signal

Parts catalogue

NUMBER PLATE HOLDER

Seat - Tail light

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the tail light

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat E 3, Removal of the seat

Unscrew the bolt (16) and remove the cover (15).

Recover the washer (17).
Unscrew the bolts (10) securing the tail light support (11) to the frame, slightly raise the support and disconnect the
tail light (A) (Sect. P 1, Routing of wiring on frame).

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 Tail light and number plate holder

Unscrew the bolt (5) and the nut (8) o release the headlight (1) with the heat shield (42) from the support (11).

Refitting the tail light

If removed, fit the silicone vibration dampers (2) on the bosses (A) on the tail light (1).
Fit the washers (4) on the bolts (3), insert the bolts in the bosses, and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,
Frame torque settings).
Insert a vibration damper (7) in hole (B). Insert a bush (6) in rubber bush (7), positioning it as shown.

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 Tail light and number plate holder

PLocate the heat shield (42) on the the tail light (1), using the rubber bush (7) to connect the two parts.
Fit the tail light (1) on the rear grab handle (11), locating the vibration dampers (2) in the slots in the grab handle
indicated by the arrows.

Fit the brackets (39) to the grab handle (11) and tighten the bolts (13) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame
torque settings).
Fit the washers (14) on the bolts (13). Fit the seat slide plate (12) and screw in the bolts (13), but do not tighten at
this stage: the bolts will be tightened once the correct position of the slide relative to the seat has been identified.

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 Tail light and number plate holder

Fix the tail light (1) with the heat shield (42) to the grab handle (11), as described below.
Insert a bush (6) in the rubber bush (7).
Insert a bolt (5) in the bush (6), interposing a washer (43) between the tail light and the grab handle.
Fit a washer (9) on the bolt (5).
Fit a nut (8) to bolt (5) and tighten bolt (5) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) while
counterholding the nut (8).
Position the wiring (C) as shown in the figure, and fit the connector (D) inserting clip (E) in hole (F) of the rear grab
handle (11).

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 Tail light and number plate holder

Connect the tail wiring (A), fix the tail light support (11) to the frame with bolts (10) and tighten the bolts to the
specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Fix the cover (15) with the bolt (16) and washer (17) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings).

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 Tail light and number plate holder

Operation Section reference

Refit the seat E 3, Refitting the seat

Removal of the number plate holder

Unscrew the bolts (19) securing the number plate holder bracket (18) to the silencers, recovering washers (20).

Reconnect the turn signal and number plate light wiring connectors to the main wiring loom (Sect. P 1, Routing of
wiring on frame).
Release the wiring from the clips on the sprayguard (A).

Remove the number plate holder assembly

For disassembly of the number plate holder, refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this section.

Notes
On the USA version, plate (26) has a different design and there is a bracket with side reflectors (B).

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 Tail light and number plate holder

Refitting the number plate holder

For reassembly of the number plate holder, refer to the exploded view at the beginning of this section, in particular:
tighten the bolts (27) and bolt (23), while counterholding nut (25), to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
-
settings);
- make sure that the wiring is correctly positioned inside the number plate holder bracket;
- tighten the bolts (36) and (37) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Notes
On the USA version, plate (26) has a different design and there is a bracket with side reflectors (B).

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 Tail light and number plate holder

If the reflectors were removed, fit the O-rings (33) on the reflector (34). Fit the reflector on the bracket (31), with the
word TOP towards the top. Secure the reflector oth quick-rlease fasteners (32), orienting them as show in the figure.

Notes
The O-rings (33) are only present on the EUROPA version.

Refitting is the reverse of removal: take care to tighten the bolts (19) evenly and gradually, keeping the distances
between the four fixing points on the plate and the silencers equal at all times. Tighten the bolts in a criss-coss
sequence to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Locate the wiring in the clips on the sprayguard (A).

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 Tail light and number plate holder

Removal of the rear turn signals

To remove the rear turn signals (40) and (44), unscrew the bolts (41) and withdraw the wiring from supports (21)
and (22).

Refitting the rear turn signals

Refitting is the reverse of removal; tighten the bolts (41) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

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Tail light and number plate holder

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 L - Impianto elettrico

0L - Impianto elettrico
2 - Fuel tank 3
Removal of the fuel tank 4
Removal of the fuel tank filler cap 8
Refitting the fuel tank filler cap 8
Removal of the fuel tank flange 10
Refitting the fuel tank flange 11
Refitting the fuel tank 12

6 - Throttle body 23
Removal of the throttle body 24
Refitting the throttle body 28

7 - Air intake 33
Removal of the airbox 34
Removal of the oil breather valve 39
Refitting the oil breather valve 39
Refitting the airbox 40

8 - Exhaust system 45
Removal of the exhaust system 46
Refitting the exhaust system 50

10 - Evaporative emissions canister 54

Evaporative emissions canister system (USA versions only) 55
Removal of the evaporative emissions canister 56
Refitting the evaporative emissions canister 57

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 Evaporative emissions canister

10 -Evaporative emissions canister

1 Sealing washer
2 Union
3 Evaporative emissions canister
4 Union
5 Hose
6 Clamp
7 Hose
8 Hose
9 Hose
10 Clamp
11 Clamp
12 Clamp
13 Support
14 Bracket
15 Canister plate
16 Rubber
17 Spacer
18 Bolt
19 Nut
20 Bolt
21 Spacer
22 Hose
23 Breather valve

Parts catalogue

Fuel tank

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 Evaporative emissions canister

Evaporative emissions canister

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Evaporative emissions canister system (USA versions only)

USA models are equipped with an additional system with an evaporative emissions canister that prevents fuel fumes
from being discharged into the atmosphere.
The hose (22) is connected to the canister (3); when the fuel has been filtered, it is returned to the intake manifolds
via hose (5) and hoses (8) and (9). The hose (7) drains to the ground.
For correct positioning of the connection hoses consult the indications given below.

Removal of the evaporative emissions canister

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat E 3, Removal of the seat
Remove the LH side fairing E 2, Removal of the side fairings

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 Evaporative emissions canister

Loosen the clamps (6) securing the hoses connecting the canister (3) to the intake manifolds of the horizontal and
vertical cylinders and the breather valve (23).

Disconnect the hoses (8) and (9) connecting the canister (3) to the cylinders and the connection hose (22) to the
breather valve (23).

Unscrew the nuts (19) and remove the canister (3) from plate (14).

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 Evaporative emissions canister

Refitting the evaporative emissions canister

Refitting is the reverse of removal.

Operation Section reference

Refit the LH side fairing E 2, Refitting the side fairings
Refit the seat E 3, Refitting the seat

Positioning the hoses, clamps and evaporative emissions canister

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 Evaporative emissions canister

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 Fuel tank

2 - Fuel tank

1 Fuel tank
2 Breather hose
3 Breather valve
4 Filler cap
5 Bolt
6 Fuel tank cover
7 Bolt
8 Filler
9 O-ring
10 Bolt
11 Flange assembly
12 Washer
13 Quick-release fitting
14 Filter
15 Collar
16 Collar
17 Thermistor
18 Flange
19 Bolt
20 Flange cover
21 Nut
22 Banjo bolt
23 O-ring
24 Bolt

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 Fuel tank

25 Plate
26 Bolt
27 Plate
28 Bolt
29 Key
30 O-ring
31 Bolt
32 Plate
33 O-ring
34 Plate
35 Bolt

Parts catalogue

FUEL TANK
FUEL SYSTEM

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the fuel tank

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat and the side panels E 3, Removal of the seat/Removal of
the rear side panels
Remove the battery P 2, Battery
Remove the contactor P 3, Starter contactor

Unscrew and remove the fuel tank filler cap (4).

Unscrew the bolts (5) and (7) and remove the fuel tank cover (6), withdrawing it towards the seat.
Recover the washers (12).

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 Fuel tank

Remove the bracket (G) by unscrewing the bolts (H).

Disconnect the turn signal and number plate light wiring connectors (A) (Sect. P 1, Routing of wiring on frame).
Withdraw the regulator fures assembly (B) from the support (C) and the self-diagnosis connector (E) from the strap
(F) on the fuel tank.

Release the main wiring loom from the fuel tank (1) by opening the metal clips (D).

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 Fuel tank

Warning
Before removing the flange cover (20), check that the fuel tank (1) is empty.

Unscrew the nuts (21), remove the flange cover (20) and disconnect the quick-release fittings (13) from the flange.

Unscrew the bolts (M) securing the fuel hoses (N) to the fuel tank.

Warning
Unscrew the special bolt (L) while counterholding with a size 5 Allen key the threaded insert located on the top of the
tank.

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 Fuel tank

Remove the fuel tank (1) from the motorcycle.

Removal of the fuel tank filler cap

Remove the hose (2) from the breather valve (3).

Release the breather valve (3) by turnig it anti-clockwiseand remove it from the fuel filler (8).
Remove the fuel filler flange (8) by unscrewing the bolts (10) and recover the O-ring (9).

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 Fuel tank

Refitting the fuel tank filler cap

Fit a new O-ring (9).

Refit the fuel filler flange assembly (8) in its housing in the tank and tighten the bolts (10) to their specified torque
(Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) in the sequence 1-2-3-4-5-6-7.

Fit a new O-ring (33) on breather valve (3).

Insert the breather valve (3) in its seating on the fuel filler flange (8), applying the recommended lubricant to the
surface in contact with the flange to facilitate assembly. Turn the the vlave clockwise to secure in place.

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 Fuel tank

Fit the hose (2).

Removal of the fuel tank flange

Unscrew the bolts (19) and (22) securing the fuel tank flange (11).
Remove the flange (11) from the fuel tank.

Recover the O-ring (30).

Using the appropriate tool, undo the clips (15) next to the fuel filter (14).
Remove the old filter from the connecting hoses and fit a new filter.
Before reassembly, carefully remove any deposits or scale from all parts.

Important
When installing the new filter, position it so that the arrow stamped on the outer casing points towards the flange.

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 Fuel tank

Notes
The flange is supplied as a spare part complete with the fuel pump and pressure regulator: the entire flange assembly
must be replaced in the event of malfunction.

Refitting the fuel tank flange

Grease the O-ring (30) and locate the flange and refit by reversing the steps of the removal procedure.

Tighten the bolts (19) and (22) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings), in the sequence 1 -2 -3 -4 -
5 -6.

Locate the flange wiring, securing it as shown.

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 Fuel tank

Refitting the fuel tank

If the fuel tank has been disassembled into its component parts, reposition all the parts as shown in the figure. In
particular: tighten the bolts (26), (28) and (A) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

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Fuel tank

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 Fuel tank

If the battery retaining plate (34) was removed, refit positioning it as shown; insert the bolts (35) and tighten them to
the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Fit the battery retaining plate (32), positioning it as shown; insert the bolts (24) and tighten them to the specified
torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Reposition the fuel tank (1), engaging the front and central catches on the rubber bushes located on the frame.

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 Fuel tank

Locate the fuel hoses (N) on the tank and tighten the bolts (M).

Connect the quick-release fasteners (13) o the flange, refit the flange cover (20) and tighten the nuts (21) to the
specifie torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Secure the main wiring loom to the fuel tank (1) by closing the metal clips (D).

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 Fuel tank

Disconnect the turn signal and number plate light wiring connectors (A) (Sect. P 1, Routing of wiring on frame).
Reposition the regulator fures assembly (B) on the support (C) and the self-diagnosis connector (E) by closing the
strap (F) on the fuel tank.

Warning
Screw in the special bolt (L) while counterholding with a size 5 Allen key the threaded insert located on the top of the
tank.

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 Fuel tank

Refit the bracket (G), apply the recommended threadlocker and tighten the bolts (H) to the specified torque
(Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Fit the cover (6) by first inserting the tab (M) in the recess (N) on the tank and then locating the cover on the tank.
Fix the tank cover (6) with bolts (5) and (7) and washers (12).
Tighten the bolts (5) and (7) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Screw on the fuel filler cap (4).

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 Fuel tank

Operation Section reference

Refit the contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Refit the battery P 2, Battery
Refit the seat and side panels E 3, Refitting the seat/Refitting the
rear side panels

Positioning of the fuel tank breather and drain hoses

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Fuel tank

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 Fuel tank

Positioning of the fuel hoses

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Fuel tank

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 Throttle body

6 - Throttle body

1 Fuel system assembly

2 Throttle position sensor
3 Clamp
4 Washer
5 Bolt
6 Bolt
7 Clamp
8 Injector
9 Hose
10 Hose
11 Throttle body assembly
12 Hose
13 Stepper motor
14 Bolt
15 Fuel feed hose
16 Fuel return hose
17 Sensor support
18 Sleeve
19 Air temperature sensor
20 Bolt
21 Intake manifold
22 Aluminium gasket
23 Union
24 Sealing washer
25 Pressure sensor
26 Hose

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 Throttle body

Parts catalogue

INTAKE MANIFOLDS

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the throttle body

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat E 3, Removal of the seat
Remove the battery P 2, Removal of the battery
Remove the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Remove the fuel tank L 2, Removal of the fuel tank
Remove the airbox L 7, Removal of the airbox
Disconnect the throttle cable from F 1, Removal of the throttle twistgrip
the throttle body

Loosen the clips (3) securing the throttle body to the intake manifolds (21).
Disconnect the connector (B) connecting the main wiring loom to the throttle position sensor (2).

Disconnect the wiring connectors (C) connecting the main wiring loom to the injectors (8).

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 Throttle body

Disconnect the connector (D) connecting the main wiring loom to the stepper motor (13).

Disconnect the wiring connector (E) connecting the main wiring harness to the air temperature sensor (19).
Detach the air pressure sensor (25) from the throttle body and disconnect the wiring connector (F) from the main
wiring harness.

Remove the throttle body assembly (11) from the motorcycle.

Removal of the throttle position sensor

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 Throttle body

Notes
This operation can be performed also with the throttle body installed on the motorcycle.

The throttle position sensor (2) is installed on the right-hand side of the throttle body, in the position of the vertical
cylinder (MASTER) throttle. Undo the two bolts (5) to remove the throttle position sensor from the throttle body.

Removal of the fuel injectors

Undo the injector retaining clamps (7) with the fuel feed hose (15), fuel return hose (16) and injector connection hose
(9).
Unscrew the bolts (6) to remove the injectors from the throttle body, recovering the washers (4).

Refitting the injectors

Lubricate the injector O-rings.
Locate the washers (4) and tighten the bolts (6).
Unscrew the clamps (7).

Removal of the stepper motor

The stepper motor (13) is installed in the central part of the throttle body: to remove it, unscrew the bolts (14) and
disconnect the hoses (G) from the throttle body. Refer to Section M 3, Stepper motor for details of stepper motor
operation.

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 Throttle body

Refitting the stepper motor

Connect the hoses (G) to the throttle body.
Locate the motor (13) with its support on the throttle body, fitting the bolts (14).
Tighten the bolts (14).

Refitting the throttle body

If the hoses (12) were removed, reconnect them to the throttle body with the clamps (3), positioning the hoses and
clamps as shown in the figure.

Notes
The air temperature sensor (19) is installed on the intake manifold of the vertical cylinder (12); to refit, refer to
Section M 3, Air pressure sensor.

Warning
The hose which mounts the air temperature sensor (19) should be installed on the same side of the throttle body as
the position sensor (2).

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 Throttle body

Notes
The end of the hose with the smaller diameter is to be connected to the throttle body.

Ensure the hoses are fully seated and cirrectly oriented on the throttle body.
Tighten the clamps to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Fit the clips (3) on the intake manifolds (21) and orient them as shown in the photo.
Orient the throttle body (11) with the pulley (P) facing the right-hand side (relative to the direction of travel) and
insert it fully home in the intake manifolds.

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 Throttle body

Tighten the clamps (3) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings), making sure that they do not
protrude beyond the locating edges of the manifolds.

Connect the wiring connector (F) of the air pressure sensor to the main wiring harness and locate the air pressure
sensor (25) on the throttle body.
Connect the wiring connector (E) connecting the main wiring harness to the air temperature sensor (19).

Reconnect the wiring connectors (C) to connect the main wiring loom to the injectors (8).

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 Throttle body

Connect the wiring connector (B) to connect the main wiring loom to the throttle position sensor (2).

Connect the wiring connector (D) to connect the main wiring loom to the stepper motor (13).

Important
In the case of throttle body renewal, carry out the operation “Self-learning throttle position sensor (TPS)” as indicated
in Section D 5.

Operation Section reference

Reconnect the throttle cable to the F 1, Refitting the throttle twistgrip
throttle body
Refit the airbox L 7, Refitting the airbox
Refit the fuel tank L 2, Refitting the fuel tank
Refit the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Refit the battery P 2, Refitting the battery
Refit the seat E 3, Refitting the seat

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 Throttle body

Positioning of the stepper motor

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Throttle body

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 Air intake

7 - Air intake

1 Hose
2 Airbox
3 Airbox cover
4 Bolt
5 Air filter element
6 Breather hose
7 Hose clip
8 Pin
9 Rubber
10 Spacer
11 Bolt
12 Pressure test fitting
13 Breather valve
14 O-ring
15 Soundproofing panel
16 Bolt
17 Washer

Parts catalogue

AIR INTAKE - OIL BREATHER

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be

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 Air intake

found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the airbox

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat and the side panels E 3, Removal of the seat/Removal of
the rear side panels
Remove the battery P 2, Removal of the battery
Remove the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Remove the fuel tank L 2, Removal of the fuel tank

Undo the bolts (A) securing horizontal header of the oil cooler (B) and remove the oil cooler, leaving it connected to
its hoses.

Loosen the clamp (7) and detach the hose (6) from the valve (13).

Disconnect the HT leads (C) of horizontal cylinder coil (D) and the vertical cylinder coil (E) from the respective spark
plugs. Disconnect the main wiring loom connectors (F) from the coils.

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 Air intake

Loosen the front bolt (11) and recover the spacer (10) and the rubber mounting (9).

Detach the two pins (8) from the rubber mountings (9).

Loosen the clamps (L) of the intake manifolds (G).

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 Air intake

Remove the hose (H) from pressure test fitting (12).

Lift the airbox (2) complete with the coils and leads.

Disassembly of the airbox

Unscrew the bolts (16) recovering the washers (17) and raise the soundproofing panel (15) from the airbox.

Disconnect the drain hose (1) from the airbox (2).

Unscrew the pressure test fitting (12).

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 Air intake

Unscrew the studs (8).

To remove the coils (D) and (E) refer to Section M 3, Coil.

Reassembly of the airbox

To refit the coils (D) and (E) on the airbox, refer to Section M 3, Coil. Apply threadlocker to the two studs (8), screw
them into the airbox (2) and tighten them to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings). Apply
threadlocker to the threads of pressure test fitting (12) and tighten the fitting to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,
Frame torque settings).
Insert the drain hose (1) in airbox (2).

Locate the soundprofing panel (15) on the airbox, fit the bolts (16) with washers (17) and tighten the bolts
(Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

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 Air intake

Removal of the oil breather valve

Unscrew the bolt (V) and remove the oil breather valve (13) from the crankcase half. Check the condition of O-rings
(14) and renew them if necessary.

Refitting the oil breather valve

Lubricate the O-rings (14) with the recommended grease.
Tighten the bolt (V) of the valve (13) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Refitting the airbox

Reposition the airbox (2) complete with coils and hoses on top of the throttle body.

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 Air intake

Fit the stepper motor hose (H) on the pressure test point (12).

Check that clamps (L) are correctly positioned on intake manifolds (G), with the fixing bolts oriented towards the
exterior of the motorcycle.
Connect the intake manifolds (G) to the airbox and tighten the clamps (L) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame
torque settings).

Insert the pins (8) in the rubber mountings (9) on the frame.

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 Air intake

Reposition rubber mounting (9) and the spacer (10) and tighten the bolt (11) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,
Frame torque settings).

Reconnect the main wiring loom connectors (F) to the coils.

Reconnect the HT leads (C) of horizontal cylinder coil (D) and the vertical cylinder coil (E) to the respective spark
plugs.

Refit the hose (6) with the clamp (7) on the valve (13) and tighten the clamp (7) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,
Frame torque settings).

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 Air intake

Position the oil cooler (B) on the horizontal cylinder head, tightening the bolts (A) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,
Frame torque settings).

Operation Section reference

Refit the fuel tank L 2, Refitting the fuel tank
Refit the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Refit the battery P 2, Refitting the battery
Refit the seat and rear side panels E 3, Refitting the seat/Refitting the
rear side panels

Positioning of the airbox drain hose

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Air intake

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 Air intake

Positioning of the blow-by hose

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 Exhaust system

8 - Exhaust system

1 Support
2 Vertical cylinder head exhaust pipe
3 Nut
4 Exhaust gasket
5 Sealing washer, thickness 1
6 Plug
7 Clamp
8 Bolt
9 Spring (short)
10 Balance pipe
11 Presilencer exhaust pipe
12 Rubber mounting
13 Left-hand silencer
14 Bolt
15 Rubber mounting
16 Washer
17 Special bolt
18 Bracket
19 Right-hand silencer
20 Lambda sensor
21 Nut
22 Spacer
23 Rubber mounting
24 Bracket

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 Exhaust system

25 Bolt
26 Washer
27 Strap
28 Sealing washer
29 Quick-release fastener
30 Bracket
31 Bolt
32 Rubber
33 Strap
34 Splashguard
35 Rubber
36 Spacer

Parts catalogue

EXHAUST SYSTEM

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the exhaust system

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat and the side panels E 3, Removal of the seat/Removal of
the rear side panels
Remove the rear grab handle H 7, Removal of the tail light
Remove the number plate holder H 7, Removal of the number plate
holder
Remove the RH footrest H 4, Removal of the footrest brackets

Important
Before starting any work on the exhaust system, make sure that the engine has cooled down sufficiently.

Disconnect the turn signal and number plate light wiring connectors (Sect. P 1, Routing of wiring on frame).
Unscrew the hose clamp (7) to separate the silencers (19) from the exhaust pipe (11).

Unscrew the special bolt (17).

Withdraw the silencers (13) and (19), complete with undertail heat shield (18) and number plate holder assembly
from the rubber mountings (32) on the frame.

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 Exhaust system

Remove the splashguard (34), unscrewing the bolts (31) and recovering washers (26), (16) and bushes (36).

To separate the silencers (13) and (19) unscrew the bolts (34) and remove the bracket (30).
Unscrew the bolts (8) and remove the bracket (18).
Undo the clamp (33) and separate the two silencers.

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 Exhaust system

Disconnect the lambda sensors (20) from the main wiring harness (Sect. P 1, Routing of wiring on frame).

For the “Lambda sensor” refer to Section M 3.

Remove the spring (9) and remove the pipe (11) from the presilencer (10).

Unscrew the clamp (27) to separate the presilencer (10) from the vertical cylinder exhaust pipe (2): recover the
gasket (28).

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 Exhaust system

Unscrew the bolts (25) and the nuts (21) securing the presilencer (10) to the frame.
Recover the bracket (24) and the support (1).

Unscrew the nuts (3) and remove the exhaust manifold (2) from the vertical cylinder head and the balance pipe (10)
from the horizontal cylinder head, recovering the gaskets (4).

Refitting the exhaust system

Renew the gaskets (4).

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 Exhaust system

Position the balance pipe (10) and vertical head exhaust pipe (2) with the gaskets (4) on their respective cylinder
heads and tighten the nuts (3) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Position the presilencer (10) from the underside of the motorcycle; insert the presilencer pipe in the swingarm.

Fit the bolts (25), the spacers (22), the support (1) and the nuts (21) to fix the presilencer (10) to the bracket (24).
Tighten the nuts (21) and (25) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Connect the pipe (2) with the clamp (27) and gasket (28) to the presilencer (10).

Position the clamp (27) securing the pipe (2) to presilencer (10) so that the screw lies parallel to the line through the

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 Exhaust system

notches (A) in the end of the pipe. Position the clamp (27) so that it is flush with the end of the pipe, or at least so
that the notches (A) are not completely uncovered.
Tighten the clamp (27) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Connect the lambda sensors (20) to the main wiring harness (Sect. P 1, Routing of wiring on frame).

Position the hose (11) on the presilencer (10) with the spring (9).

Join the two silencers (13) and (19) tightening the clamp (33) ato the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings), securing the bracket (18) with the bolts (8) and tightening the bolts (8) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,

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 Exhaust system

Frame torque settings).

Secure the silencer bracket (39) with bolts (34) tightened to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Fit the washers (16) on the bushes (36). Insert the rear end of the splashguard in the vibration damper (12), routing
the wiring through the apertures in the spashguard.
Locate the bushes (36) so they rest against the clips (29). Insert the rubber vibration dampers (35) in the bushes
(36). Fit the washers (26) on the bolts (31) and insert the bolts in the clips (29).
Tighten the bolts (31) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Secure the wiring in the clips on the splashguard and bind them together with small tie.

Fit the silencers (13) and (19), inserting them from the rear of the motorcycle, connecting them to pipe (11) and
inserting the pins of the silencer in rubber mountings (32) on the frame.
Tighten the bolt (17) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Tighten the clamp (7) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

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 Exhaust system

Reconnect the rear turn signal and number plate light wiring (Sect. P 1, Routing of wiring on frame).

Operation Section reference

Refit the right-hand footrest H 4, Refitting the footrest brackets
Refit the number plate holder H 7, Refitting the number plate holder
Refit the rear grab handle H 7, Refitting the tail light
Refit the seat and rear side panels E 3, Refitting the seat/Refitting the
rear side panels

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 M - Impianto elettrico

0M - Impianto elettrico
1 - Description of the system 3
General information on the fuel injection-ignition system 3
Fuel circuit 6
Air circuit 7
Operating phases 9

2 - Fuel injection-ignition system 10

3 - System components 11
Electronic control unit (ECU) 11
Removal of the electronic control unit 12
Refitting the ECU 12
Fuel injectors 14
Stepper motor 15
Lambda sensor 16
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) 18
Rpm/timing sensor 18
Air temperature sensor 19
Air pressure sensor 20
Spark plug 22
Coil 23
Injection relay 24
CAN Line 25

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 Description of the system

1 - Description of the system

General information on the fuel injection-ignition system
The integrated electronic control system, with ignition and injection both controlled by the same
control unit, ensures optimal engine performance and output, thus reducing fuel consumption and
harmful exhaust emissions. This system ensures an accurately metered air-fuel ratio and optimal
management of ignition advance.

The system consists of three different circuits:

Fuel circuit
Air circuit
Electrical circuit (with control unit, sensors and actuators).

Importance of the air-fuel mixture and the ignition advance.

Correct management of the air-fuel ratio and the ignition advance are fundamental requirements for
optimal engine operation.
The air-fuel mixture is given by the ratio, in weight, of air to fuel taken in by the engine: the ideal
or stoichiometric ratio is that which determines complete combustion. Excessive or insufficient air
give rise to, respectively, a lean (or weak) mixture or a rich mixture, which affect power and
consumption, as well as emissions of exhaust gases.
Electronic control of the ignition advance makes it possible to optimise engine performance,
maximum power, fuel consumption, and concentration of exhaust pollutants.
Electronic ignition timing control combined with fuel supply control allows for optimal engine
operation in all conditions of use (low temperature start, warm-up stage, transitory acceleration/
deceleration stages, engine under partial load, full load, idle).

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 Description of the system

Siemens M3C fuel injection-ignition system

The Marelli injection-ignition system is the Alfa/N type, in which the engine speed and throttle
position are used as the main parameters for measuring the quantity of intake air. If the quantity of
air is known, the quantity of fuel can be dosed accordingly to obtain the required ratio. Additional
sensors in the system (engine rpm, aspirated air pressure, air temperature, engine oil temperature
and lambda sensor to control CO level) are used to adjust the basic engine control strategy in
accordance with the operating conditions. The engine speed and the throttle angle also make it
possible to calculate the optimal advance for all types of operating conditions. The quantity of air
taken in by each cylinder during each cycle depends on the density of the air in the intake manifold,
the cylinder capacity and the volumetric efficiency.
The volumetric efficiency of the engine is determined experimentally throughout the entire range of
operating conditions (rotation speed and engine load conditions). The values obtained in this way
are then used for the generation of a map which is stored in the Flash EPROM of the Siemens
M3C ECU for injection control. The Flash Eprom can be programmed via CAN line. Fuel injection
control is of the phased sequential type, i.e. the injectors are not operated in parallel. Fuel delivery
to each cylinder may start during the expansion stroke and may extend up to after the beginning of
the induction stroke. Fuel cut-off timing (the time when the injectors are closed), is saved onto a
special map, which is stored in the ECU Flash Eprom. Ignition is of the static inductive discharge
type, featuring dwell time control so as to ensure coil charging at steady power Power modules for
coil power supply are included in the ECU hardware. Advance curves are stored in the ECU Flash
Eprom. Both coils and power modules are controlled by the ECU, which calculates the ignition
advance.

Notes
To test the components and wiring of the injection - ignition system, use the “DDS” tester, following
the indications given in the paragraph “Guided diagnosis” (Sect. D 5).

Key to the sensor position diagram

1 Injection ECU

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 Description of the system

2 Injection relay
3 Fuel pump
4 Lambda sensor (horizontal cylinder)
5 Engine temperature sensor
6 Air temperature sensor
7 Horizontal cylinder coil
8 Pressure sensor
9 Engine speed sensor
10 Vertical cylinder coil
11 Sparkplug
12 Throttle position sensor
13 Injectors
14 Stepper motor
15 Lambda sensor (vertical cylinder)

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 Description of the system

Fuel circuit
Fuel from the tank is pumped into the delivery line (OUT) and then to the injectors, by means of a
pump located on a flange installed at the bottom of the fuel tank. The flange also incorporates the
pressure regulator that controls the fuel feed pressure and keeps it constant at a higher value than
the negative pressure generated by the engine. Fuel that is not injected in the intake hoses returns
to the flange and then to the tank by way of a return hose (IN).

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 Description of the system

Air circuit
The air circuit is composed of two intake manifolds (A), the throttle body (B) and an airbox (C)
located over the throttle body.

This motorcycle is equipped with a stepper motor (14) that determines the supplementary air flow
downstream of the butterfly valves during the engine starting phase (see “Operating phases” in this
section).

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 Description of the system

The engine control system (ignition and injection) relies on several sensors which adjust the
mixture according to the air pressure and temperature and the engine load. An air temperature
sensor (6) located on the intake manifold of the vertical cylinder and an air pressure sensor (5)
located between the “V” of the engine block, connected to the air intakes, measures the
atmospheric pressure and transmits this information to the ECU where it used to make essential
adjustments to the quantity of fuel injected when the motorcycle is ridden at varying altitudes (e.g.
a route that starts at sea level and ends at a high altitude); they also allow the ECU to make
mixture corrections in relation to air density. Assuming that the volume of air is constant, if the
temperature rises, oxygen content will decrease, whereas it will increase as the temperature falls.
If the temperature rises, the mixture should be leaner, while if it falls, the mixture should be made
richer to maintain the best air-fuel ratio.

The two lambda sensors (4) and (15), installed respectively in the horizontal and vertical cylinder
exhaust pipes, provide information that is used by the ECU to control the air–fuel mixture.

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 Description of the system

There is a throttle position sensor (12) fitted on the spindle of the rear cylinder throttle. This device
sends the ECU a signal that is an indirect indication of the quantity of air aspirated by the engine
(indirect measurement of engine load).

Operating phases

Normal operation
When the engine is warm, the unit calculates injection time and the ignition advance using the
values stored in the respective maps, in accordance with the RPM and throttle position. The
calculated quantity of fuel is fed to each cylinder through the injectors in one single sequential
delivery.

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 Description of the system

Starting
When the ignition switch is turned to ON, the control unit activates the fuel pump for a
few moments to pressurise the fuel supply circuit. The throttle position and engine temperature
signals are processed. When the engine is turned over by the starter motor, the unit receives the
engine RPM and timing signals that allow it to proceed with injection and ignition. To facilitate start-
up, the mixture is enriched in accordance with engine temperature During starting, the ignition
advance angle is maintained at 0° until the engine starts. When the engine starts, the ECU controls
the ignition advance in accordance with the values stored in the map and makes any necessary
corrections according to the air and engine temperatures.

Acceleration/deceleration
During acceleration, the ECU makes the mixture richer for improved engine performance.
Acceleration is detected by monitoring the speed at which the rider turns the twistgrip to open the
throttle. During a rapid deceleration, determined by the rider quickly turning the twistgrip to close
the throttle, the ECU makes the mixture leaner to reduce emissions and fuel consumption.

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 Fuel injection-ignition system

2 - Fuel injection-ignition system

Key to fuel injection-ignition system diagram
The electrical components of the fuel injection-ignition system are listed below: the reference next
to each component is that shown in the diagram in “Wiring diagram”, Section P 1:
4 Fusebox
5 Data acquisition/Diagnostics
6 Starter motor
7 Starter contactor with MASTER fuse
8 Battery
16 Fuel tank
17 Injection relay
19 Sidestand switch
20 Air temperature sensor
24 Horizontal cylinder coil
25 Horizontal cylinder spark plug - RH
26 Vertical cylinder coil
27 Vertical cylinder spark plug - RH
28 Horizontal cylinder injector
29 Vertical cylinder injector
30 Throttle position sensor
31 Rpm/timing sensor
33 Stepper motor
34 Neutral switch
35 Oil pressure switch
38 Clutch switch
41 Instrumentation (instrument panel)
46 Engine ECU

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 System components

3 - System components
Electronic control unit (ECU)
The engine ECU (1) is an electronic digital microprocessor-based unit.

It controls both the injectors and the coils, thus controlling fuel injection and ignition in accordance
with the engine operating conditions detected by the following sensors:
Absolute pressure sensor (measures the barometric pressure and the engine load in Speed Density
-
mode)
- Air temperature sensor (measures intake air temperature)
- Engine temperature sensor (measures the engine oil temperature)
- Timing/rpm sensor for engine rotation speed and the position of each cylinder relative to TDC
- Throttle position sensor (measures the throttle opening angle).
The ECU also monitors battery voltage so that it can adjust injector opening time and ignition coil
charging time accordingly.
The ECU determines the following values:
- Amount of fuel delivered to each cylinder with a sequential non-parallel control
Injector closing time and therefore injection timing relative to the end of the induction stroke for
-
each cylinder
- Ignition advance.

Important
The maps, which include ignition advance values, injection times, crankshaft angle for injector
closing and all correction curves as a function of temperature and atmospheric pressure values, are
stored in the Flash Eprom of the ECU. The above values are preset by the Manufacturer after testing
the motorcycle under different riding conditions.
These settings cannot be changed.

Removal of the electronic control unit

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat E 3, Removal of the seat
Remove the right-hand fairing E 2, Removal of the side fairings

Disconnect the wiring connector (1) from the ECU.

Unscrew and remove the retaining bolts (2).

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Remove the ECU from the motorcycle.

Refitting the ECU

Fix the ECU to the frame with bolts (2) and reconnect the wiring connector (1).
Tighten the bolts (2) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Connector (1) is a 48 PIN connector.

Make sure that the clip (A) for the connector (1) is in its “open” position (as shown in the diagram).
Rotate the clip (A) to secure the connector (clip in the “locked” position).

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Operation Section reference

Refit the right-hand fairing E 2, Refitting the side fairings
Refit the seat E 3, Refitting the seat

Fuel injectors
The injectors (1) deliver the correct quantity of fuel required for optimal engine operation.

The control unit controls injector opening by feeding current to the coil of an electromagnet which

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 System components

creates a magnetic field thereby attracting an armature and generating fuel spray. If we take the
physical characteristics of the fuel to be constant (viscosity, density), as well as the injector delivery
and pressure head (controlled by the fuel pressure regulator), the amount of fuel injected depends
on the duration for which the injector is open. This time is determined by the ECU in accordance
with the engine operating conditions. In this way correct fuel delivery in ensured.

For removal or refitting of the injectors, refer to Section L 6, Removal of the fuel injectors/Refitting
the injectors.

Notes
To test the operation of the injector, use the DDS tester and follow the instructions given in the
paragraph “Guided diagnosis”, (Sect. D 5).

The fuel output must be even and the jet should be fully atomised, without droplets.
Do not leave the engine stopped for a long time with the fuel circuit full. The fuel could clog the
injectors and render them inoperable. Periodically, after lengthy periods without running the engine,
we recommend adding TUNAP 231 to the fuel in the tank to help clean critical sections of the fuel
circuit.

Stepper motor
The throttle body incorporates an automatic choke function performed by a stepper motor (1).
The stepper motor shaft is fitted with a valve which opens a communicating passage between two
ports; one of these ports (2) is connected to the intake manifold of the vertical cylinder while the
other (4) is connected to the intake manifold of the horizontal cylinder. A third port (3) is connected
to the airbox.

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The stepper motor simultaneously controls two by-pass ports having an air flow capacity of around
6 kg/h.
The by-pass ports with adjuster screws are present because it is necessary to balance the air flow
to the two cylinders.
In order to compensate for the quantity of supplementary air supplied by the stepper motor and
consequently deliver the correct amount of fuel, the ECU converts the stepper motor steps into
angular degrees of the throttle: this system means that opening the stepper motor is equivalent to
opening the throttle.

Notes
The influence of the stepper motor air flow is present to approximately 30° throttle angle; no
correction is required for greater angles.

The opening of the stepper motor opening is controlled by 2 strategies:

Strategy 1) controlled solely by engine temperature (stepper motor opening/closing is determined
by engine temperature alone).
StrategY 2) controlled by engine temperature and status. This strategy is applied only in the engine
starting phase; the system determines a quantity of steps, to be added to those of the previous
strategy, which are immediately decreased to zero, in accordance with the number of engine cycles,
once the system has detected that the engine has started.

Lambda sensor
The Lambda sensor (1), positioned on the exhaust pipe, transmits information to the ECU on the
amount of oxygen in the exhaust fumes. With this information the ECU can maintain optimal control
over the fuel-air mixture.

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The outer surface of the sensor element in zirconium dioxide is in direct contact with the exhaust
gas, while the inner surface is in contact with the atmosphere. Both surfaces are coated with a thin
layer of platinum. Oxygen in ionic form travels through the ceramic layer and charges the platinum
layer electrostatically so that the platinum acts as an electrode: the electrical signal generated is
carried on the sensor output cable.
The zirconium dioxide element becomes permeable to oxygen ions at a temperature of around 300 °
C.
When the oxygen concentration is different on the two sensor surfaces, a voltage is generated
thanks to the special physical properties of the zirconium dioxide. With a lean mixture the signal
voltage is low, while with a rich mixture it is high.
Typically the change in signal intensity occurs when the air-fuel ratio is 14.7 to 1 (14.7 parts air to
1 part petrol), which is referred to as “Lambda 1”. This ratio is considered to be an indication of
complete combustion, hence the name “Lambda Sensor”. therefore
lambda = 1 means mixture in stoichiometric (ideal) ratio
lambda >1 means a lean mixture
lambda <1 means a rich mixture.
The air-fuel mixture control system is managed by the lambda sensor, which starts to operate at
over 300 °C: the ceramic material starts conducting oxygen ions at around 300 °C. If the
proportion of oxygen starts to differ between the two ends of the probe, this generates an electrical
voltage between the two electrodes due to the particular nature of the material. This makes it
possible to measure the difference in oxygen content between the exhaust gas and the ambient air.
Combusted gas still contains a residual amount of oxygen when the air-fuel mixture delivered to the
combustion chamber is incorrect. This makes it possible to adjust the injection control unit to
ensure the engine always runs with the optimal air-fuel mixture.
To remove the lambda sensors (1) unscrew them from the horizontal and vertical cylinder exhaust
pipes.
When refitting the sensors, tighten them to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

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Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

The TPS is powered by the ECU to which it sends a signal indicating the throttle position.
This information is an indirect measure of the engine load and is used by the ECU as one of the
main parameters for defining the fuel flow rate and spark advance.

To check this component, use the DDS tester following the instructions given in the paragraph
“Guided diagnosis” (Sect. D 5).
For renewal of the TPS, refer to Sect. L 6, Removal of the throttle body.

Rpm/timing sensor
This sensor is of the inductive type: it faces the timing gear and is capable of “reading” the 48 teeth

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and the 2 gaps (each equivalent to 2 teeth) positioned 180° apart.

The signal coming from the pickup on the camshaft gear is used by the ECU to determine the
engine speed and as a timing reference point.

Notes
To check these components for faults, use the DDS tester and follow the instructions given in the
paragraph “Guided diagnosis” (Sect. D 5).

For instructions on how to renew the sensor and check the air gap, see the chapter “Flywheel-
alternator” (Sect. N 8).

Air temperature sensor

This sensor is powered by the ECU and provides information regarding the temperature of the
aspirated air. The electronic signals thus obtained are transmitted to the ECU, where they are used
to make corrections in accordance with the temperature reading.

Notes
To test the operation of the injector, use the DDS tester and follow the instructions given in the
paragraph “Guided diagnosis” (Sect. D 5).

Removal of the air temperature sensor

To remove the air temperature sensor, disconnect the main wiring harness connector (1) from the
sensor, unscrew the retaining bolts (2) and remove the sensor from the intake manifold.

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Refitting the air temperature/pressure sensor

Refitting is the reverse of removal: tighten the retaining screws (2) of the sensor to the specified
torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings.
On completion of the refitting operation, reconnect the wiring connector (1) to the sensor.

Air pressure sensor

This sensor is powered by the ECU and it supplies information concerning the absolute air pressure
in an area of the motorcycle that is not subject to turbulence. The electronic signals thus obtained
are transmitted to the ECU, where they are used to make corrections in accordance with the
pressure reading.

Notes
To test the operation of the injector, use the DDS tester and follow the instructions given in the
paragraph “Guided diagnosis” (Sect. D 5).

Removing the air pressure sensor

To remove the air pressure sensor (1), first remove the following components:

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat and the side panels E 3, Removal of the seat/Removal of
the rear side panels
Remove the battery P 2, Removal of the battery
Remove the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Remove the fuel tank L 2, Removal of the fuel tank
Remove the airbox L 7, Removal of the airbox

Disconnect the main wiring harness connector (3) from the sensor, and detach the sensor from the
throttle body.
Remove the hoses (2) from the intake manifolds.

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Refitting the air pressure sensor

Refitting is the reverse of removal.
On completion of the refitting operation, reconnect the wiring connector (3) to the sensor.
Refit the airbox (Sect. L 7, Refitting the airbox).

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Spark plug
Clean the area around the spark plug bores with a compressed air jet before removing the spark
plugs themselves.
Remove the spark plug connectors (1) from the spark plugs in both heads and remove the four
spark plugs, making sure that no debris falls into the combustion chamber.

Important
Check the gap between the central and side electrodes.
If the gap is not as specified or if the spark plug has heavy sooty deposits, renew it.

Refit the spark plug in the cylinder head, first tightening it fully by hand.
Tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Refit the spark plug caps (1).

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Important
Do not use spark plugs with inadequate thermal rating or incorrect thread length. The spark plug
must be securely installed. If a spark plug is loose, it can overheat and damage the engine.

Make:
NGK.
Type:
DCPR8E.

Alternative
Make:
CHAMPION.
Type:
RA4 HC.

Coil
An inductive discharge ignition system is used. Coil operation is governed by the M3C electronic
control unit, which calculates the ignition advance. The power module (integrated in the electronic
control unit) also guarantees constant energy coil charge, by adjusting the dwell time.
The horizontal cylinder coil (1) and vertical cylinder coil (2) are mounted to the airbox.
In order to access the coils, it is necessary to remove the following components:

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat and the side panels E 3, Removal of the seat/Removal of
the rear side panels
Remove the battery P 2, Removal of the battery
Remove the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Remove the fuel tank L 2, Removal of the fuel tank
Remove the airbox L 7, Removal of the airbox

Unscrew the retaining bolts (3) and recover the spacer located in correspondence with the coil (1).
When refitting, tighten the bolts (3) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

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Notes
To check the coils for faults use the “DDS” tester (Sect. D 5, Guided diagnosis).

Injection relay
The relay (1) is located next to the ECU.

To access the relay, remove the seat (Sect. E 3, Removal of the seat) and remove the right-hand
fairing (Sect. E 2, Removal of the side fairings).
Disconnect the relay from the electrical system and apply 12 V (battery voltage) between contacts
(86) and (85) (small contacts): you should hear a click that confirms that the internal
electromagnet has switched.
Connect a multimeter to contacts (30) and (87) (big contacts) to check for electrical continuity (see
Sect. P 9, Diagnostic instruments concerning operation of the multimeter). The resistance reading
should be near zero and, if present, the audible continuity signal should be emitted. If this does not
occur, the part must be renewed.

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CAN Line
This model utilises a CAN line (Controller Area Network) which has made it possible to greatly
simplify the lay-out of the electrical system and consequently reduce its overall weight.
The CAN line is connected to two nodes:
the instrument panel and the engine ECU (I.A.W. 5AM2).
This network makes it possible to avoid superfluous duplications of the sensors on the motorcycle,
since their signals are shared by the two nodes and hence the two processing units. The sensors are
connected to the nearer of the two units (instrument panel or ECU), which then transmits their
signal to the network so that it can be used by the ECUs.
The CAN line is composed of only two wires carrying series of digital signals, each of which contains
precisely defined and decodable information. The nodes connected to the line (instrument panel and
engine ECU) are equipped with hardware to determine when the signals are of interest to them and
should be used by their processors.
The signals exchanged over the CAN line between the instrument panel and engine ECU are as
follows:
- Motorcycle speed (input to engine ECU)
- Neutral selected (input to engine ECU)
- Engine oil pressure (input to engine ECU)
- Oil temperature (input to engine ECU)
- Starter motor actuation (starter button) (input to engine ECU)
- First level diagnostics generated by ECU
- Engine oil pressure (input to engine ECU)
- Overrev (gear change signal)
- Scheduled service limit (light on instrument panel illuminates)
- Intake air temperature (input to instrument panel)
- Battery voltage-Identification of motorcycle model
- EOBD LED control
- Immobilizer recovery
- Atmospheric pressure (sensor integrated in the instrument panel).

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 N - Impianto elettrico

0N - Impianto elettrico
1 - Removal - refitting of the engine assembly 5
Removal of the engine 6
Refitting the engine 9

2.1 - Lubrication system: oil pump 11

Removal of the oil pump 12
Disassembly of the oil pump 13
Reassembly of the oil pump 14
Refitting the oil pump 15

2.2 - Lubrication system: oil cooler 16

Removal of the oil cooler 17
Oil cooler inspection 19
Refitting the oil cooler 19

2.3 - Lubrication system: oil breather 22

Removal of the oil breather valve 23
Refitting the oil breather system 24

4.1 - Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments 25

Checking and adjusting valve clearances 26
Checking the engine timing 30

4.2 - Cylinder head assemblies: timing belt covers/timing

system 32
Removal of the timing belt covers 33
Removal of the timing system assembly 34
Disassembly and reassembly of the timing belt pulleys 37
Refitting the timing system assembly 38
Refitting the timing belt covers 46

4.3 - Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts 47

Removal of the intake manifolds 48
Refitting the intake manifolds 49
Removal of the inner timing belt covers and camshaft end caps 50
Removal of the valve covers 52
Refitting the valve covers 53
Removal of the camshafts 54
Inspecting the camshafts 56

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 N - Impianto elettrico

Checking the oil seals 56

Refitting the camshafts 57
Refitting the camshaft end caps 60

4.4 - Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms 62

Removal of the cylinder head assembly 63
Overhaul of cylinder head components 67
Refitting the cylinder head assembly 75
Refitting the cylinder heads 81

5 - Cylinder/piston assemblies 83
Removal of the cylinder/piston assembly 84
Overhaul of the cylinder barrel/piston components 87
Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly 93

6.1 - Clutch assembly: APTC wet clutch 97

Description of the APTC clutch assembly 98
Removal of the APTC clutch 99
Disassembly of the clutch hub-plates-centre assembly 101
Overhaul and inspection of the APTC clutch components 102
Reassembly of the clutch hub-plates-centre assembly 104
Refitting the APTC clutch 106

6.2 - Clutch assembly: clutch-side crankcase cover 109

Removal of the clutch-side crankcase cover 110
Disassembly of the clutch-side crankcase cover 111
Reassembly of the clutch-side crankcase cover 112
Refitting the clutch-side crankcase cover 113

6.3 - Clutch assembly: primary drive gears 115

Removal of the primary drive gears 116
Refitting the primary drive gears and checking backlash 118

7.1 - Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism 121

Removal of the gearchange mechanism 122
Disassembly of the gear interlock plunger and pawl assembly 125
Reassembly of the gear interlock plunger and pawl assembly 126
Refitting the gearchange mechanism 128

7.2 - Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts 130

Removal of the gearbox assembly 131
Disassembly of the gearbox shafts 133

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 N - Impianto elettrico

Overhaul of the gearbox 141

Inspection of the gear selector forks 142
Inspection of the gear selector drum 143
Reassembly of the gearbox shafts 144
Reassembly of the gearbox 148

8 - Flywheel-alternator 149
Removal of the alternator-side crankcase cover 150
Disassembly of the alternator-side crankcase cover 151
Removal of the flywheel-alternator assembly 152
Checking the flywheel/alternator assembly 154
Refitting the flywheel-alternator assembly 159
Reassembly of the alternator-side crankcase cover 161
Refitting the alternator-side crankcase cover 162

9.1 - Crankcase assembly: external components 165

Removal of external components 166
Refitting the external components 169
Removal of the timing gears 173
Refitting the timing gears 174
Removal of the starter motor idler gear 175
Refitting the starter motor idler gear 176

9.2 - Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves 177

Separation of the crankcase halves 178
Overhaul of the crankcase halves 181
Overhaul of the main bearings 183
Reassembly of the crankcase halves 184
Shimming the shafts 185
Reassembly of the crankcase halves 188

9.3 - Crankcase assembly: crankshaft/connecting rods

assembly 195
Removal of the crankshaft/connecting rods assembly 196
Disassembly of the crankshaft/connecting rods assembly 197
Overhaul of the connecting rods 197
Reassembly of the connecting rods 203
Refitting the crankshaft/connecting rod assembly 205

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 Removal - refitting of the engine assembly

1 - Removal - refitting of the engine assembly

1 Plug
2 Bolt
3 Nut
4 Special nut
5 Swingarm pivot shaft

Parts catalogue

FRAME
SWINGARM

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the engine

In order to remove engine you must first remove a series of other components from the motorcycle.
Most of these removal procedures are described in the relative sections of this manual.
The following flow chart illustrates the logical sequence in which the parts are to be removed from the motorcycle and
a reference to the section where the removal procedure is described. This section describes only the operations to be
carried out after having removed all the parts listed in the flow chart.

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 Removal - refitting of the engine assembly

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat E 3, Removal of the seat
Remove the side fairings E 2, Removal of the side fairings
Remove the battery P 2, Removal of the battery
Remove the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Remove the fuel tank L 2, Removal of the fuel tank
Disconnect the HT leads M 3, Spark plug
Remove the airbox L 7, Removal of the airbox
Disconnect the throttle cables from F 1, Removal of the throttle twistgrip
the throttle body
Remove the throttle body L 6, Removal of the throttle body
Drain the oil from the lubrication D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
system cartridge
Remove the oil cooler hoses from N 2.2, Removal of the oil cooler
the engine block
Remove the gearchange control F 5, Removal of the gearchange
control
Remove the footrest brackets H 4, Removal of the footrest brackets
Remove the sidestand H 5, Removal of the sidestand
Disconnect the exhaust pipes from L 8, Removal of the exhaust system
the cylinder heads
Remove the clutch slave cylinder F 2, Removal of the clutch slave
cylinder
Slacken off the drive chain D 4, Adjusting the chain tension
Remove the front sprocket G 8, Removal of the front sprocket
Disconnect the wiring connectors on P 1, Routing of wiring on frame
the engine block

Place a service stand beneath the engine to support it during removal from the frame.
Remove the plugs (1) from the frame tubes at the engine mounting points.

Unscrew the nuts (3) on the right-hand side of the frame, on the two upper engine mounting bolts (2).

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 Removal - refitting of the engine assembly

Restrain the swingarm pivot shaft (5) on the right-hand side of the motorcycle while unscrewing the nut (4) on the
left-hand side:

Using drift 88713.1074, fully extract the swingarm pivot shaft. This frees the swingarm from the engine and
therefore it can be left attached to the frame.

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 Removal - refitting of the engine assembly

Remove the two upper bolts (2).

Withdraw the complete engine assembly from the frame by lowering it and pushing it forwards.

Refitting the engine

Refitting is the reverse of removal.
In particular, lubricate the nuts (3), nut (4) and the swingarm pivot shaft (5).
Tighten the nuts (3) and the nut (4) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

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 Removal - refitting of the engine assembly

Operation Section reference

Reconnect the wiring connectors P 1, Routing of wiring on frame
on the engine block
Refit the front sprocket G 8, Refitting the front sprocket
Adjust the drive chain tension D 4, Adjusting the chain tension
Refit the clutch slave cylinder F 2, Refitting the clutch slave cylinder
Reconnect the exhaust pipes to L 8, Refitting the exhaust system
the cylinder heads
Refit the sidestand H 5, Refitting the sidestand
Refit the footrest brackets H 4, Refitting the footrest brackets
Refit the gearchange control F 5, Refitting the gearchange control
Refit the oil cooler hoses to the N 2.2, Refitting the oil cooler
engine block
Fill the lubrication system D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge
Refit the throttle body L 6, Refitting the throttle body
Reconnect the throttle cables to F 1, Refitting the throttle twistgrip
the throttle body
Refit the airbox L 7, Refitting the airbox
Reconnect the HT leads M 3, Spark plug
Refit the fuel tank L 2, Refitting the fuel tank
Refit the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Refit the battery P 2, Refitting the battery
Refit the side fairings E 2, Refitting the side fairings
Refit the seat E 3, Refitting the seat

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 Lubrication system: oil pump

2.1 - Lubrication system: oil pump

1 Complete oil pump assembly

2 O-ring
3 Circlip
4 O-ring
5 Pump body
6 Circlip
7 Reducer bush
8 Spring washer
9 Bolt
10 Bolt
11 Spring washer
12 Pump drive gear
13 Bush
14 By-pass plug
15 Locating bush
16 By-pass spring
17 By-pass valve

Parts catalogue

Filters and oil pump

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 Lubrication system: oil pump

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the oil pump

Operation Section reference

Drain the engine oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge
Disconnect the oil pressure sensor P 5, Checking the indicating devices
Remove the clutch-side crankcase N 6.2, Removal of the clutch-side
cover crankcase cover

Undo and remove the bolts (9) and (10) securing the pump assembly.
Remove the oil pump assembly (1) and extract the O-rings (2) and (4) from the crankcase half together with two
locating bushes (15).

Disassembly of the oil pump

Hold the oil pump (1) in a vice taking care not to damage the drive gear (12).

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 Lubrication system: oil pump

Warning
Make sure that vice jaws are faced with soft material.

Remove the plug (14) and extract the spring (16) and by-pass valve (17).
Check the condition of the above components.

Check the condition of the above components.

Remove the circlip (6), slide out the bush (13) and the circlip (3).
Slide out the pump drive gear (12).

Reassembly of the oil pump

Fit the pump drive gear (12), circlip (3) and bush (13) on the oil pump.
Secure the components installed by inserting the circlip (6) in its groove.

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 Lubrication system: oil pump

Install in the pump the by-pass valve (17) and the spring (16); screw in the plug (14) and tighten to the specified
torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings) after applying a medium strength threadlocker.

Fit the cover (2) to the pump body (5) complete with the gears.

Refitting the oil pump

If removed, apply the recommended threadocker to the bush (7) and screw it into the crankcase half by the specified
amount.
Position the locating bushes (15) and the O-rings (2) and (4) in correspondence with the crankcase lubrication
oilways.

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 Lubrication system: oil pump

Position the oil pump (1) on the crankcase and tighten the bolts (9) and (10) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,
Engine torque settings).

Check the gear backlash with the driving gear by fixing a dial gauge, equipped with the appropriate stylus, to the
crankcase half.

Position the dial gauge stylus on one tooth of oil pump gear and set the gauge to zero in this position.
Move the gear slightly to measure the backlash; take four readings in diametrically opposed positions of the gear.
The backlash should be 0.10 mm.

Operation Section reference

Refit the clutch-side crankcase N 6.2, Reassembly of the clutch-side
cover crankcase cover
Connect the oil pressure sensor P 5, Checking the indicating devices
Top up the engine oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge

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 Lubrication system: oil cooler

2.2 - Lubrication system: oil cooler

1 Oil cooler
2 Rubber mounting
3 Spacer
4 Bolt
5 Oil return hose
6 Oil supply hose
7 Connection fitting
8 Aluminium gasket

Parts catalogue

OIL COOLER

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the oil cooler

Operation Section reference

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 Lubrication system: oil cooler

Drain the oil from the lubrication D 4, Changing the engine oil and
system filter cartridge

Loosen the nuts on the unions (A) and detach the oil cooler supply (6) and return (5) hoses from the connection
fittings (7).
Rotate the oil cooler (1) forwards to prevent the oil from flowing out.
Check the condition of two O-rings at each hose connection.

Loosen the nuts on unions (B) and detach the delivery (6) and return (5) hoses from the engine.
You can now remove the connection fittings (7) for connecting the hoses to the engine.

Check the condition of the aluminium sealing washers (8) and renew them if necessary.
Loosen the bolt (4) and recover the spacer (3) and the rubber mounting (2).
Slide the oil cooler (1) off the pins of the front subframe, towards the left-hand side of the motorcycle.
Remove the connection fittings (7) on the oil cooler, check the condition of the sealing washers (8) and renew if
necessary.
Remove the rubber mountings (2); check their condition and renew if necessary.

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 Lubrication system: oil cooler

To remove the hoses (5) and (6), free them from the guides (C).

Notes
The oil cooler can be removed complete with its hoses.

Oil cooler inspection

Visually inspect the cooler.
Renew the cooler at any sign of damage or leaks.

Refitting the oil cooler

Fit the rubber mountings (2) on the horizontal cylinder head and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame
torque settings).

Fit the sealing washer (8) on the connection fitting (7).

The sealing washer must be installed on the side of the nipple with the smaller diameter thread with the square edge
side facing the oil cooler.
Apply threadlocker to the thread of the connection fitting (7) that is screwed into the oil cooler.
Insert the connection fitting (7) with the sealing washer (8) in the supply port or return port and tighten to the
specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) while restraining the hex nut of the oil cooler.

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 Lubrication system: oil cooler

Notes
Lubricate the threads of the fittingss (5) and (6) and O-rings (D) with engine oil.

Fit the hoses (5) and (6) on the fittings (7) without inserting the O-rings.
Screw the nuts (G) fully on to the connection fittings by hand.

Warning
To avoid pinching the O-rings, do not push the hose into the connection fitting. The O-rings should only be inserted in
the connection fitting by tightening the nut (G).

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 Lubrication system: oil cooler

Tighten the nuts (G) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings) while counterholding the flats on the
connection fittings (7).

Position the oil cooler (1) in correspondence with the rubber mountings (2) fitted previously and secure it with the
collars (3) and bolts (4).
Tighten the oil cooler retaining bolts (4) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

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 Lubrication system: oil cooler

Locate the hoses (5) and (6) in the guides (C).

Operation Section reference

Fill the system with engine oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge

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 Lubrication system: oil breather

2.3 - Lubrication system: oil breather

1 O-ring
2 Oil breather valve
3 Clamp
4 Hose

Parts catalogue

AIR INTAKE - OIL BREATHER

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the oil breather valve

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat E 3, Removal of the seat
Remove the side fairings E 2, Removal of the side fairings

Loosen the clamp (3) securing the connection hose (4) of the oil breather valve (2).

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 Lubrication system: oil breather

Extract the hose (4) from the airbox (A).

Unscrew the bolt (B) and remove the oil breather valve (2) from the engine.
Check the condition of O-rings (1) and renew them if necessary.

Refitting the oil breather system

Refitting is the reverse of removal.
It is advisable to first position the hose (4) in the airbox (A) and then the hose clamp (3) on the breather valve (2).

Notes
On reassembly, lubricate the O-rings (1) with the recommended grease.

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 Lubrication system: oil breather

Notes
To facilitate subsequent removal and refitting operations, we recommend that the hose clamps are installed in their
original positions.

Operation Section reference

Refit the side fairings E 2, Refitting the side fairings
Refit the seat E 3, Refitting the seat

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 Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments

4.1 - Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments

1 Valve closing shim

2 Camshaft
3 Valve opening shim
4 Valve

Parts catalogue

Cylinder head: timing system

Vertical cylinder head
Horizontal cylinder head

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Checking and adjusting valve clearances

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat E 3, Removal of the seat

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 Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments

Remove the side fairings E 2, Removal of the side fairings

Remove the battery P 2, Removal of the battery
Remove the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Remove the fuel tank L 2, Removal of the fuel tank
Remove the oil cooler N 2.2, Removal of the oil cooler
Remove the valve covers N 4.3, Removal of the valve covers
Remove the timing belt covers N 4.2, Removal of the timing belt
covers

Notes
For clarity, the figures show the engine block removed from the frame.

Remove the inspection cover (A) and install service tool no. 88713.0123.

Turn the crankshaft until the mark on the timing belt driveshaft pulley is aligned with the mark on the crankcase
cover.

Set the degree wheel of service tool no. 88713.0123 to zero the horizontal cylinder is at top dead centre of the
expansion stroke, and therefore we can proceed to check the valve clearances on this cylinder.
To measure valve clearances in the vertical cylinder, rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise through 270° from this
position. This will bring the vertical cylinder to top dead centre of the expansion stroke, and therefore we can proceed
to check the valve clearances on this cylinder.

Checking the opening clearance (Sa) of the intake/exhaust valves

To check the valve opening clearance (Sa), insert the blade of a feeler gauge between the opening rocker (D) and the
shim (3).

Notes
While inserting the blade of the feeler gauge to check the clearance, apply gentle leverage to overcome the force of
the closing rocker spring and thus eliminate any play in the rocker mechanism: then check that the shim can rotate
freely.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments

The clearance values must be within the specified limits (Sect. C 1.1, Timing system/valves).
If they are not, remove the opening shim (3), as described in the paragraph “Removal of the cylinder head
assembly”, Sect. N 4.4, and replace it with a shim of appropriate thickness to obtain the specified clearance.

Notes
Opening rocker arm shims measuring 1.8 to 3.45 are available as replacement parts: each shim is marked with its
size.

Checking the closing clearance (Sc) of the intake/exhaust valves

To check the valve closing clearance, insert the blade of a feeler gauge between the closing rocker (C) and the shim
(1): the closing clearance (Sc) corresponds to the thickness of the feeler gauge and should allow the free rotation of
the shim without any significant play.
The clearance must be within the specified limits (Sect. C 1.1, Timing system/valves).
If it is not, remove the closing shim (1), as described in the paragraph “Removal of the rocker arms, shims and
valves” Sect. N 4.4, and replace it with a shim of suitable thickness to obtain the specified clearance.

Notes
Closing rocker arm shims measuring 2.2 to 4.5 are available as replacement parts: each shim is marked with its size.

Refit the opening and closing shims as described in the paragraph “Refitting the rocker arms, shims and valves”,
Sect. N 4.4.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments

Checking valve lift

Fit the gauge (C) 88765.1581 in correspondence with the fixing hole of the previously removed cylinder head valve
cover, as shown in the photo.
Reset the valve opening clearance when the camshaft is in its rest position by fitting a feeler gauge between the
upper rocker arm and opening shim.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments

Notes
This operation is best done using one dial gauge for the exhaust valve and another one for the intake valve.
Make sure the dial gauge fork is centred relative to the valve axis and located against the closing shim.
Set the dial gauge to zero when the valve is fully closed.
Rotate the intake camshaft so as to allow the intake valves to lift fully.
Check that the reading on the dial gauge corresponds to the specified value (Sect. C 1.1, Timing system/valves).
Perform the same procedure for the exhaust valve, fixing the support to the opposite side of the cylinder head.
Refit following the procedure indicated in the previous paragraph “Checking and adjusting valve clearances”.
Remove the tools 88765.1581.

Operation Section reference

Refit the timing belt covers N 4.2, Refitting the timing belt covers
Refit the valve covers N 4.3, Refitting the valve covers
Refit the oil cooler N 2.2, Refitting the oil cooler
Refit the fuel tank L 2, Refitting the fuel tank
Refit the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Refit the battery P 2, Refitting the battery
Refit the side fairings E 2, Refitting the side fairings
Refit the seat E 3, Refitting the seat

Checking the engine timing

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat E 3, Removal of the seat
Remove the side fairings E 2, Removal of the side fairings
Remove the battery P 2, Removal of the battery
Remove the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Remove the fuel tank L 2, Removal of the fuel tank
Remove the oil cooler N 2.2, Removal of the oil cooler
Remove the timing belt covers N 4.2, Removal of the timing belt
covers
Remove the valve covers N 4.3, Removal of the valve covers

Notes
Engine timing should be checked after changing parts such as camshafts, valves or timing belt rollers or when
overhauling badly worn engines.

Remove the spark plugs and install the tool (E) 88765.1297 in the spark plug bore to determine the piston's TDC,
along with gauges (C) 88765.1581 and the timing check tool with timing degree wheel (G) 88713.0123).
Reset the opening valve clearance when the camshaft is in rest position by inserting a feeler gauge between the
opening rocker arm and the opening shim.
Check that in this condition the camshaft can rotate. If it moves stiffly, use a thinner feeler gauge.
In this condition, with the piston of the horizontal cylinder is at TDC and the valves fully closed as confirmed by the
reading on gauge (E), set gauges (C) to zero.
Adjust the timing belt tension as described in Section N 4.2, Refitting the timing belt tensioner pulleys.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments

Turn the degree wheel (G) counterclockwise until the dial gauge (C) on the exhaust side shows a lift of 1 mm. Check
that the angular displacement reading on the degree wheel (G) is as specified (Sect. C 1.1, Timing system/valves).

Continue to rotate in the same direction until you obtain a 1 mm lift on the intake side. Check the angular value on
the degree wheel.
Continue to rotate until, in correspondence with the closure of the valve for the compression stroke, you obtain a lift
of the intake valve of 1 mm on the gauge (C). Check that the angular displacement reading matches the specified
value (Sect. C 1.1, Timing system/valves).
Rotate clockwise again until obtaining 1 mm lift of the exhaust valve, on both valve opening and closure.
Check the angular displacement value against the specified value.
Repeat the procedure for the vertical cylinder.
Permissible tolerance for measured values is ±3° with respect to specified values.
Remove the tools used to check engine timing.

Operation Section reference

Refit the valve covers N 4.3, Refitting the valve covers
Refit the timing belt covers N 4.2, Refitting the timing belt covers
Refit the oil cooler N 2.2, Refitting the oil cooler
Refit the fuel tank L 2, Refitting the fuel tank

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 Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments

Refit the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor

Refit the battery P 2, Refitting the battery
Refit the side fairings E 2, Refitting the side fairings
Refit the seat E 3, Refitting the seat

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 Cylinder head assemblies: timing belt covers/timing system

4.2 - Cylinder head assemblies: timing belt covers/timing system

1 Vertical cylinder timing belt cover

2 Horizontal cylinder timing belt cover
3 Bolt
4 Bolt
5 Spacer
6 Elastic stop ring
7 Washer
8 Outer timing belt driveshaft pulley
9 Horizontal cylinder timing belt
10 Intermediate spacer
11 Idler pulley assembly
12 Bolt
13 Elastic stop ring
14 Washer
15 Special washer
16 Camshaft pulley
17 Flange
18 Bolt
19 Bolt
20 Bolt
21 Tensioner pulley assembly
22 Inner timing belt driveshaft pulley
23 Vertical cylinder timing belt
24 Key

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 Cylinder head assemblies: timing belt covers/timing system

25 Circlip
26 Key
27 Bolt

Parts catalogue

timing system
Cylinder head: timing system

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the timing belt covers

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat E 3, Removal of the seat
Remove the side fairings E 2, Removal of the side fairings
Remove the battery P 2, Removal of the battery
Remove the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Remove the fuel tank L 2, Removal of the fuel tank

Unscrew the screw (4) and screws (3) and remove the horizontal timing belt cover (2).
Unscrew the screw (4) and remove the vertical timing belt outer cover (1).

Removal of the timing system assembly

Loosen the positioning screw (20) of the tensioner pulley (21) of the horizontal cylinder timing belt.
Loosen the screw (27) securing the tensioner pulley of the horizontal cylinder timing belt and move the tensioner
pulley (21) to the rest position.
Remove the horizontal cylinder timing belt (9).

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 Cylinder head assemblies: timing belt covers/timing system

Repeat the above operations to remove the vertical cylinder timing belt (23).

To remove the camshaft pulleys, install the tool 88713.3152 on the pulley to be removed to prevent its rotation, and
using service socket no. 88700.5644 inserted in a torque wrench or ratchet arm, loosen the pulley retaining nut (13).

Remove the nut (13), washer (14) and pulley (16).

Important
On reassembly, always fit new nuts.

Unscrew and remove the idler pulleys (11).

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 Cylinder head assemblies: timing belt covers/timing system

Use the wrench of tool no. 88700.5644 to lock rotation of the timing belt driveshaft pulley on the crankcase and,
using the socket combined with the tool, loosen the nut (6).
Remove the nut (6), the washer (7) and the outer pulley (8).

Remove the first Woodruff key (24) located on the timing belt driveshaft.
Remove the intermediate spacer (10) and the inner pulley (22).

Remove the second Woodruff key (26) located on the timing belt driveshaft.
Remove the spacer (5) and the circlip (25).

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 Cylinder head assemblies: timing belt covers/timing system

Disassembly and reassembly of the timing belt pulleys

To disassemble the pulleys, loosen and remove the three screws (12), slide of the washer and (15) and remove the
pulley (16) from the flange (17).
To reassemble, fit the pulley (16) on the hub (17), aligning the timing mark (G) on the pulley with the timing mark on
the (H) on the hub.
Fit the washer (15) against the pulley, aligning the timing notch (I) with the timing marks (G) and (H) on the pulley
and the hub respectively.
Insert the three screws (12) in the threaded holes (L) of the hub.

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Refitting the timing system assembly

Refitting the camshaft timing pulleys

Check that the keyway on the end of camshaft is in good condition and without burrs.
Fit one key (C) into the camshaft keyway.

Important
During reassembly, take care that the timing mark “B” on the spacer flange is aligned with the mark “A” on the pulley
and washer.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: timing belt covers/timing system

Fit the assembled pulley (16) onto the camshaft, so that is firmly seated.

Warning
Make sure that the Woodruff key is not dislodged.

Fit the tool no. 88713.3152 onto the pulleys to prevent rotation.
Apply a smear of grease to the thread and underside of the nut (13), and fit the washer (14) and the nut.

Important
Always fit new nuts on reassembly.

Using the socket of service tool no. 88700.5644 in combination with a torque wrench, tighten the nuts (13) to their
specified torque (Sect. C 3 Engine torque settings).

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 Cylinder head assemblies: timing belt covers/timing system

Refitting the timing belt driveshaft pulleys

Install the circlip (25) on the pulley side of the timing belt driveshaft. Drive it into its seat using the protective
cap 88700.5749 and the relative drift.

Fit the spacer (5) with the slot facing the crankcase.
Locate on the timing belt drievshaft, the first Woodruff key (26), the inner pulley (22) the intermediate spacer (10)
and the second Woodruff key (24).

Then fit the outer pulley (8) the outer spacer (7) lock nut (6).

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 Cylinder head assemblies: timing belt covers/timing system

Important
To prevent the nuts working loose and consequent serious engine damage, always use new self-locking nuts on all
the timing belt pulleys on reassembly.

Notes
Apply a thin coating of grease to the thread and underside of the nut (6).

Use the wrench of tool 88700.5644 to restrain the pulleys against rotation and, using the bush of the tool in a
torque wrench, tighten the self-locking nut to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Refitting the timing belt tensioner pulleys

If removed, apply the recommended threadlocker to the idler pulley (11) and tighten to the specified torque
(Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Position the crankshaft so that the piston of the horizontal cylinder is at TDC of its power stroke. This is achieved by
aligning the timing mark (P) on the timing belt driveshaft pulley (8) with the reference notch (Q) on the crankcase
cover.

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Important
Turn the timing belt driveshaft pulley with the spark plugs removed from the engine.

Remove the inspection cover (C) from alternator-side crankcase cover by unscrewing the two bolts (D).

Install the service tool 88713.2011 in the alternator-side crankcase cover to hold the crankshaft against rotation and
secure it with the relative pin.

Remove the srew (F) from the inner timing belt cover (E) and recover the washer.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: timing belt covers/timing system

Restrain the camshafts of both cylinder heads by screwing tool no. 88713.2282 into the camshaft end caps (E).

Turn the pulleys by hand until the end of the tool engages the slot in the camshaft.

Fit the horizontal (9) and vertical (23) timing belts using your hands only and without altering the alignment of the
pulleys.

Locate the tensioner pulleys (21) on the vertical and horizontal cylinders. Screw in, but do not tighten at this point,
the screws (27) and (20), so that the tensioner pulleys can rotate.

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Check the timing belt tension and adjust if necessary as described in the paragraph “Measuring timing belt
tension” (Sect. D 5).

Warning
Check the tension values on sections of belts (M) and (N) shown in the figure.

When the correct belt tensioning value is reached, ensure that bolts (20), (27) and (12) are tightened to the specified
torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

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Warning
Whenever you renew any components of the timing system, it is good practice to also check the timing (Sect. N 4.1,
Cylinder head assemblies: checks and adjustments).

Remove the service tools no. 88713.2282 from the camshaft end caps (E) and refit the screws (F) with the washers,
tightening them to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Remove the crankshaft locking tool 88713.2011 unscrewing first the pin and then the screw from the tool.

Refit the inspection cover (C) in the alternator-side crankcase cover, inserting the two bolts (D).
Tighten the bolts to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Notes
Before refitting the cover (C), check the condition of the O-ring and renew it if necessary.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: timing belt covers/timing system

Refitting the timing belt covers

Position the vertical timing belt cover (1) on the engine.
Fit the cover retaining screws (4) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Locate the horizontal timing belt cover (2) on the engine.
Tighten the screws (4) and (3) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Operation Section reference

Refit the fuel tank L 2, Refitting the fuel tank
Refit the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Refit the battery P 2, Refitting the battery
Refit the side fairings E 2, Refitting the side fairings
Refit the seat E 3, Refitting the seat

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 Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts

4.3 - Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts

1 Bolt
2 Vertical cylinder head inner timing belt cover
3 Seal
4 Bolt
5 Washer
6 Horizontal cylinder head inner timing belt cover
7 Bolt
8 Valve cover
9 O-ring
10 Vertical cylinder head
11 Horizontal cylinder head
12 Stud bolt
13 Stud bolt
14 Nut
15 Key
16 Camshaft-vertical cylinder head
17 Air intake funnel
18 Bolt
19 O-ring
20 Camshaft end cap
21 Bolt
22 Horizontal cylinder head camshaft
23 Copper gasket
24 Bolt

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 Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts

25 Valve cover

Parts catalogue

CYLINDER HEAD: TIMING SYSTEM

Vertical cylinder head
HORIZONTAL CYLINDER HEAD
INTAKE MANIFOLDS

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the intake manifolds

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat E 3, Removal of the seat
Remove the side fairings E 2, Removal of the side fairings
Remove the battery P 2, Removal of the battery
Remove the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Remove the fuel tank L 2, Removal of the fuel tank
Remove the airbox L 7, Removal of the airbox
Disconnect the throttle cables from F 1, Removal of the throttle twistgrip
the throttle body
Remove the throttle body L 6, Removal of the throttle body

Notes
The procedure can also be carried out with the engine installed in the frame. For clarity, the photos show the engine
removed from the frame.

Unscrew and remove the nuts (14) securing the intake manifolds of the vertical and horizontal cylinder heads from
the studs (13).
Remove the manifolds (17).

If necessary, remove the studs (12) and (13) from the cylinder heads.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts

Refitting the intake manifolds

Apply the recommended threadlocker to the studs (12) and (13), install them in the cylinder heads and tighten them
to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Locate the intake manifolds (17) and secure with the nuts (14).
Tighten the nuts (14) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

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 Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts

Operation Section reference

Refit the throttle body L 6, Refitting the throttle body
Reconnect the throttle cables to the F 1, Refitting the throttle twistgrip
throttle body
Refit the airbox L 7, Refitting the airbox
Refit the fuel tank L 2, Refitting the fuel tank
Refit the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Refit the battery P 2, Refitting the battery
Refit the side fairings E 2, Refitting the side fairings
Refit the seat E 3, Refitting the seat

Removal of the inner timing belt covers and camshaft end caps

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat E 3, Removal of the seat
Remove the side fairings E 2, Removal of the side fairings
Remove the battery P 2, Removal of the battery
Remove the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Remove the fuel tank L 2, Removal of the fuel tank
Remove the timing belt covers N 4.2, Removal of the timing belt covers
Remove the camshaft pulleys N 4.2, Removal of the timing system
assembly

Notes
For clarity, the figures show the cylinder head removed from engine.

Remove the retaining screws (18) and (1) and remove the inner timing belt cover (2) from the vertical cylinder head
(10).

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Repeat the operation for the horizontal cylinder head (11).

Notes
When removing the covers, take care not lose the Woodruff keys (15) located on camshafts (16) and (22).

Unscrew the bolts (21) of the end cap (20) of the camshaft (16).

Remove the camshaft end cap (20) from the cylinder head and recover the O-ring (19).

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 Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts

Removal of the valve covers

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat E 3, Removal of the seat
Remove the side fairings E 2, Removal of the side fairings
Remove the battery P 2, Removal of the battery
Remove the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Remove the fuel tank L 2, Removal of the fuel tank
Remove the oil cooler N 2.2, Removal of the oil cooler

Undo the retaining screws (7) of valve covers (8) and (25) and remove the covers with relative O-rings (9).

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Refitting the valve covers

Always fit new O-rings (9) when refitting the valve covers.
Fix the valve covers (8) and (25) with the relative O-rings (9) to the cylinder head.
Tighten the bolts (7) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

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 Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts

Operation Section reference

Refit the oil cooler N 2.2, Refitting the oil cooler
Refit the fuel tank L 2, Refitting the fuel tank
Refit the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Refit the battery P 2, Refitting the battery
Refit the side fairings E 2, Refitting the side fairings
Refit the seat E 3, Refitting the seat

Removal of the camshafts

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat E 3, Removal of the seat
Remove the side fairings E 2, Removal of the side fairings
Remove the battery P 2, Removal of the battery
Remove the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Remove the fuel tank L 2, Removal of the fuel tank
Remove the timing belt covers N 4.2, Removal of the timing belt
covers
Remove the timing belts and N 4.2, Removal of the timing system
camshaft timing belt pulleys assembly

Notes
This operation can be carried out with the rocker arms installed in the cylinder head. For clarity, the photos show the
cylinder head with the opening rocker arms removed.

Remove the camshaft end caps as described above.

Remove the key (15) from the camshaft.

Notes
To prevent possible damage to components, turn the camshaft (16) through a series of rotations so that the cams do
not foul the rockers.

Notes
If the rocker arms are installed in the cylinder head, remove the spring (A) of the opening rocker arm (B) to facilitate
operations.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts

Withdraw the camshaft (16) from its housing.

Remove the oil seal (3) from the cylinder head.

Inspecting the camshafts

Check the cam contact surfaces for scratches, grooves, steps and waving. Worn cams are frequently the cause of
poor timing, which leads to loss of engine power.
Install the camshaft between two centres and check for distortion using a dial gauge:
- service limit: 0.1 mm.

Notes
The effective distortion will be half the total reading obtained on the dial gauge.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts

Each camshaft is stamped with an identification letter:

O: horizontal;
V: vertical.

Checking the oil seals

Fit new oil seals at each engine overhaul.
Insert the new oil seals squarely in their bores. Use suitable drifts.
Lubricate the lip of oil seals after assembly. This operation must be performed very carefully.

Refitting the camshafts

If removed, install the oil seal (3) in the bore on the right-hand side of the cylinder head using a suitable drift.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts

Important
If the rockers arms are already installed in the cylinder head (Sect. N 4.4, Refitting the rocker arms, shims and
valves), insert the camshaft (16), carefully rotating it as you go, so that the camshaft lobes do not foul the rocker
arms.
Before fitting the camshaft, check the punch mark: “V” means vertical, “O” means horizontal.

Apply graphite oil to the seats of the camshaft so that it is lubricated also during the initial revs of the engine.
Insert the camshaft (16) from the left-hand side of the cylinder head.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts

If previously removed, relocate the spring (A) of the opening rocker arm (B).

Check the condition of the Woodruff key (15) and its groove, and install it.

Operation Section reference

Refit the inner timing belt covers N 4.3, Refitting the camshaft end caps
and camshaft end caps
Refit the timing belts and camshaft N 4.2, Refitting the timing system
timing belt pulleys assembly
Refit the timing covers N 4.2, Refitting the timing belt covers
Refit the fuel tank L 2, Refitting the fuel tank
Refit the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Refit the battery P 2, Refitting the battery
Refit the side fairings E 2, Refitting the side fairings
Refit the seat E 3, Refitting the seat

Refitting the camshaft end caps

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 Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts

Lubricate the new O-rings (19) with the recommended grease and fit on the end cap (20).
Fit the end cap (20) on the left-hand side of the cylinder head.

Secure the end cap (20) with the bolts (21).

Tighten the bolts (21) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Notes
Take care not to dislodge the key (15) located on camshaft (16).

Locate the inner timing belt cover (2) of the vertical cylinder head on the left-hand side of the cylinder head and
insert the retaining screws (1) and (18).
Tighten the bolts (18) and (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Repeat the above operations for the other cylinder head (11).

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 Cylinder head assemblies: camshafts

Operation Section reference

Refit the camshaft timing pulleys to N 4.2, Refitting the timing system
the cylinder heads assembly
Refit the timing belt covers N 4.2, Refitting the timing belt covers
Refit the fuel tank L 2, Refitting the fuel tank
Refit the starter contactor P 3, Starter contactor
Refit the battery P 2, Refitting the battery
Refit the side fairings E 2, Refitting the side fairings
Refit the seat E 3, Refitting the seat

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 Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms

4.4 - Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms

1 Clip
2 Shim
3 Opening rocker arm
4 Rocker arm shaft
5 O-ring
6 Valve opening shim
7 Half rings
8 Valve closing shim
9 Spring
10 Valve rubber
11 Exhaust valve guide
12 Washer
13 Intake valve guide
14 Intake valve seat
15 Exhaust valve seat
16 Exhaust valve
17 Intake valve
18 Closing rocker arm
19 Nut

Parts catalogue

Crankcase halves

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 Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms

Vertical cylinder head

HORIZONTAL CYLINDER HEAD

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the cylinder head assembly

Operation Section reference

Remove the engine from the frame N 1, Removal of the engine
Remove the timing belt covers N 4.2, Removal of the timing belt
covers
Remove the timing belts and the N 4.2, Removal of the timing system
timing belt pulleys assembly

Removal of the cylinder heads

Notes
On disassembly of the components mounted on the cylinder head it is essential that they are laid out or marked in
such a way that they can be refitted in exactly the same position they occupied before being removed.

Using tool 88713.2676, unscrew the nuts (19) on the cylinder head studs.
Remove the nuts (19) and recover the special washers (12) positioned between the nuts and the cylinder head.

Remove the head assembly from the engine by lifting it off the engine stud bolts.
Remove the cylinder head gaskets (C).

Removal of the rocker arms, shims and valves

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 Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms

Operation Section reference

Remove the valve covers N 4.3, Removal of the valve covers
Remove the camshafts N 4.3, Removal of the camshafts
Remove the camshaft end caps N 4.3, Removal of the inner timing
belt covers and camshaft end caps

Remove the clip (1) securing the opening rocker (3).

Move the rocker arm (3) to free the valve opening shim (6).

Screw service tool 88713.2837 to the threaded end of the opening rocker shaft (4).
Withdraw the rocker shaft (4) and recover the opening rocker arm (3) and the two shims (2).

Using two screwdrivers, hold the closing rocker arm (18) in the “valve open” position.
Slide the valve closing shim (8) along the intake valve stem (17) in such a way as to make it possible to remove the
two half rings (7) securing the valve.
Use long nosed pliers or a magnetic screwdriver to remove the half rings (7) from the valve stem.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms

Slide the valve closing shim (8) off the valve (17).
Withdraw the valve (17) from the underside of the cylinder head.

Repeat the above operations for the exhaust side.

Attach the end of the spring (9) of the closing rocker arm (18) to the tool 88713.2783.
Remove the closing rocker arm shaft (4) using service tool 88713.2837.
Remove the rocker arm (18), the spring (9) and service tool 88713.2783.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms

Overhaul of cylinder head components

Overhaul of the cylinder heads

Remove any carbon deposits from the combustion chamber and its ducts.
Check for cracking and inspect the sealing surfaces for scoring, ridges or other damage.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms

The cylinder barrel mating surface must be perfectly flat. If this is not the case, spread diamond dressing compound
(6 to 12 micron thickness) on a reference surface and slide the cylinder head on the surface as shown in the figure
until a flat finish is obtained.

Checking the valves

Check that the stem and the valve seat contact surface are in good condition. There must be no pitting, cracks,
deformations or signs of wear.

Warning
The valves cannot be ground.

Perform the following checks: measure the diameter of the valve stem (D) at various heights along the portion that
runs in the valve guide.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms

Check that valve head band (at 45° to valve head top face) is concentric to the valve stem as follows: place the valve
on a V block, set a dial gauge at right angles to the head and rotate the valve.
Service limit: 0.03 mm.

Checking the valve seats

Visually inspect the valve seats: there must no excessive hollowing and there must be no pitting or cracks.

If a valve seat is only slightly damaged, it may be lapped using the special 45° lapping tools, with subsequent
grinding of the valve into its seats.
If the valve seats are excessively damaged, fit oversize seats. Replacement seats are available with 0.03 and
0.06 mm oversized outside diameters.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms

Important
When you change the valve seats, change the valve guides as well.

Renewal of the valve seat

Remove the worn seats by grinding out the rings. Take great care not to damage the valve seat housing in the
cylinder head.

Check the diameter of cylinder head bores and choose the oversized valve seat that will give an interference fit of
0.11 to 0.16 mm. Replacement valve seats are supplied in outside diameter oversizes of 0.03 and 0.06 mm.

Heat the cylinder head gradually and evenly up to 200 °C and chill the new valve seats in dry ice.
Install the seats perfectly square into their bores using a suitable installer.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms

Allow to cool and then lap the valve seats, smooth the connections between the ducts and the new seats and grind
the valves.

Valve–seat contact surfaces

Use Prussian blue or a mixture of minium and oil to check that the contact surface (W) between valve and seat is 1.0
to 1.5 mm.
Maximum permissible limit:
- 2.0 mm.
Grind the seat if the dimension measured is greater than above limit.
Fill the intake and exhaust ducts with fuel to check for leaks; if leaking occurs, check the sealing surfaces for burrs.

Overhaul of the valve guides

Carefully examine the internal surface of the valve guide: for cracking or distortion. If the guide is excessively out-of-
round, use a reaming tool to make the mating faces more uniform.

Notes
When you change the valve guide, you must also change the valve. The intake valve guides are made from cast iron,
whereas the exhaust valve guides are bronze.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms

Valve-valve guide clearance

Assembly clearance:
- 0.03 to 0.06 mm.

Maximum permissible wear limit:

- 0.08 mm.

Renewal of the valve guides

To renew the valve guides (11) and (13), proceed as follows.
Heat up the cylinder head gradually and evenly up to 200 °C.
Drive out the valve guide using a suitable drift (see drawing).
Allow the cylinder head to cool down and check the condition of the seat.
Select the most suitable replacement valve guide to obtain an interference fit in the cylinder head bore of 0.022-
0.051 mm; replacement valve guides are supplied in O.D. oversizes of 0.03, 0.06 and 0.09 complete with lock rings.
Heat up the cylinder head again and chill the new valve guide in dry ice.
Lubricate the seat and install the valve guide so that the stop ring is located against the head, using the drift
previously used to remove the old guide.
Allow the cylinder head to cool, then ream out the inside of the new valve guide.

Overhauling the rocker arms

Check for signs of wear, grooves or chrome flaking off.
Check the condition of the rocker arm bore and shaft.
nominal diameter of rocker arm bore:
- 10.040 to 10.062 mm.
nominal diameter of rocker arm shaft:
- 10 to 0.005 mm.
Check the contact surfaces of the shims and the valve return collets are perfectly flat with no signs of wear.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms

Rocker shaft–rocker bore clearance

The assembly clearance must be 0.03 to 0.06 mm.
Maximum permissible wear limit:
- 0.08 mm.
The rocker arm shafts should be a light force fit in the cylinder head.
In the event of excessive clearance, fit 0.02 mm oversize shafts (available from Parts Service).

Checking the rocker arm springs

Carefully examine the springs (9) of the closing rocker arms (18). There must be no signs of cracking, distortion, or
loss of elasticity.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms

Refitting the cylinder head assembly

To refit the cylinder head reverse the steps of the removal procedure; pay particular attention to those operations
mentioned specifically.
It is very important that all the components are carefully cleaned.
If removed, fit new valve guide seal rings (10), lubricate with engine oil and insert from the spring side with tool
part no. 88713.2442.
Fit the end of the tool into the valve guide and use a mallet to tap the seal rings (10) home into the valve guides.

Refitting the rocker arms, shims and valves

Fit the closing rocker arm (18) and relative spring (9) on service tool no. 88713.2783.
Insstall the service tool-rocker arm-spring assembly in the cylinder head and insert the shaft (4) with a new seal ring
(5), suitably lubricated.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms

Important
When assembling the rocker arm shafts (4) make sure that threaded hole is on the external side of the cylinder head.

Detach the spring (9) and remove the tool 88713.2783.

Proceed in the same way for the exhaust side.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms

Install the valve (17) and valves (16), first lubricating them with engine oil.

Provisionally install the camshaft (C).

Using two screwdrivers, hold the closing rocker (18) in the “valve open” position.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms

Fit the closing shim (8) on the valve stem (17) with the larger diameter side facing the rocker arm.

Position the two half rings (7) on the valve stem.

Remove the screwdriver and position the closing rocker arm (18) in the rest position.

Reposition the screwdriver, and compress the spring as much as possible while holding the valve, the shim and the
half rings in the “valve closed” position. Release the closing rocker (18) with a rapid motion, so that the half rings
seat in the shim.

With the valve in rest position and while pushing on the rocker arm to oppose the force of the return spring, check

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 Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms

that the clearance between the rocker and the closing shim is within the specified tolerance limits (Sect. N 4.1,
Checking the closing clearance (Sc) of the intake/exhaust valves).
If not, adjust the valve clearance (Sect. N 4.1, Checking and adjusting valve clearances).

Once the specified clearance has been obtained, remove the camshaft (C), lubricate it with graphite oil and reinstall it
in the cylinder head.
Insert the rocker arm shaft (4) with the threaded hole on the external side of the cylinder head: the seal (5) should
be renewed on installation; lubricate it before fitting.

Locate the opening rocker arm (3) and the two shims (2) on the shaft (4).

Refit the camshaft end cap (Sect. N 4.3, Refitting the camshaft end caps).
Refit the camshaft timing pulleys (Sect. N 4.2, Refitting the timing belt driveshaft pulleys).
Locate the valve opening shim (6) on the valve stem.
With the valve in rest position, check that clearance between the rocker arm (3) and the shim (6) is within the
specified tolerance limits (Sect. N 4.1, Checking the opening clearance (Sa) of the intake/exhaust valves).
If not, adjust the valve clearance (Sect. N 4.1, Checking and adjusting valve clearances.

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 Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms

Fit the side clip (1) on the shaft (4) of the opening rocker arm (3) between the two spacers (2).

Operation Section reference

Refit the camshaft end caps N 4.3, Refitting the camshaft end
caps
Refit the camshafts N 4.3, Refitting the camshafts
Refit the valve covers N 4.3, Refitting the valve covers

Refitting the cylinder heads

Warning
In order to prevent oil leaks developing between the cylinder barrel and the crankcase, every time the cylinder head
is removed, it is essential to remove also the cylinder barrel/piston in order to be able to clean the crankcase and
cylinder barrel, to renew, if necessary, damaged gaskets and O-rings and to apply new liquid gasket (Sect. N 5,
Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly).

Before refitting the cylinder head assemblies, fit new head gaskets (C) and check that the locating dowels (A) and

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bushes (B) are installed (Sect. N 5, Cylinder/piston assemblies).

Fit the cylinder head onto the studs and lower it down onto the cylinder barrel.

Fit the special washers (12) over the stud bolts with the square edged face towards the cylinder head and the flat
face towards the inside.
Grease the threads and undersides of the nuts (19) and the threads of the studs with the recommended grease.
Using tool no. 88713.2676 in conjunction with a torque wrench, gradually tighten the cylinder head nuts to the
specified torque in a crosswise sequence (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Important
Incorrect tightening could cause abnormal elongation of the studs and serious damage to the engine.

Operation Section reference

Refit the timing belt pulleys and the N 4.2, Refitting the timing system
timing belts assembly
Refit the timing belt covers N 4.2, Refitting the timing belt covers
Refit the engine to the frame N 1, Refitting the engine

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Cylinder head assemblies: valves - rocker arms

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 Cylinder/piston assemblies

5 - Cylinder/piston assemblies

1 Pin
2 Circlip
3 Gudgeon pin
4 Vertical cylinder
5 Piston rings
6 Cylinder-crankcase gasket
7 Pin
8 Horizontal cylinder
9 Piston
10 Locating bush
11 Cylinder head gasket
12 Cylinder temperature sensor

Parts catalogue

Cylinders - Pistons

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the cylinder/piston assembly

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 Cylinder/piston assemblies

Operation Section reference

Remove the engine from the frame N 1, Removal of the engine
Remove the timing belt covers N 4.2, Removal of the timing belt covers
Remove the timing belts and the N 4.2, Removal of the timing system
timing belt pulleys assembly
Remove the cylinder heads from N 4.4, Removal of the cylinder head
the engine assembly

Remove the dowel (7), bushes (10) and head gasket (11) from their seats on the cylinder barrel.

Use service tool no. 88700.5644 to bring the piston (9) of the horizontal cylinder (8) close to TDC.
Carefully lift the cylinder barrel (8) off the crankcase, keeping it vertical.

If necessary, rock the cylinder slightly using both hands or tap its base gently with a rubber mallet. Continue to lift
the cylinder until you can access the gudgeon pin (3).

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 Cylinder/piston assemblies

Since insertion of piston in the barrel is a difficult operation to perform at the time of reassembly, remove the piston
together with the barrel as an assembly as described below.
Close the opening in the engine crankcase with a rag or soft paper to prevent foreign material or solid combustion
residue from falling in.
Remove the circlip (2) of the gudgeon pin (3) from the clutch side.

Working from the opposite side, drive out the gudgeon pin (3) sufficiently to release the connecting rod.
Lift the cylinder/piston assembly clear of the engine crankcase studs.

If work is to be carried out on the piston, carefully withdraw it from the cylinder.

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 Cylinder/piston assemblies

To remove the vertical cylinder-piston assembly, proceed as described above for the horizontal cylinder.
Remove the cylinder-crankcase gaskets (6) from the cylinder barrel.

Important
Mark the pistons to show from which cylinder they were removed:
V= Vertical - H= Horizontal.

Overhaul of the cylinder barrel/piston components

Overhauling the cylinder
Check that the walls of the cylinder bore are perfectly smooth. Measure the cylinder bore diameter (D) at three
different heights and in two directions offset by 90°, thereby determining the assembly clearance, taper, and ovality
(see specified values in Section C 1.1, Cylinder/Piston).

In the event of damage or excessive wear the barrel must be renewed as it has a silicon carbide coating (which
provides the cylinder walls with excellent anti-friction and anti-wear properties) and therefore cannot be rebored.
The cylinders are marked by a letter (punched into the specific surface on the cylinder side) showing the class to
which they belong.
Always match cylinders with pistons from the same size class.

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 Cylinder/piston assemblies

Overhauling the piston

Clean the piston crown and piston ring grooves, removing any carbon deposits.
Inspect the piston and check its dimensions carefully: there must be no signs of scuffing, scoring, cracks, or other
damage.
Check the piston diameter.

The pistons must always be renewed as a pair.

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 Cylinder/piston assemblies

Piston-cylinder clearance
The pistons are marked with a letter (punched into the piston crown) that indicates the size class to which they
belong.
Always match cylinders with pistons from the same size class.
For the values, refer to Section C 1.1, Cylinder/Piston.

Overhauling the gudgeon pins

Gudgeon pins must be perfectly smooth without signs of scoring, steps, or blueing due to overheating. The well-
lubricated gudgeon pin must slide smoothly inside the piston without stiffness.
The assembly clearance with the piston at the time of installation must be 0.002 to 0.008 mm.
The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.035 mm.
If a new gudgeon pin is fitted, you must also change the connecting rod small end bush.

Overhauling the piston rings

The piston rings must not show any signs of scuffing or scoring. Replacement pistons are supplied complete with
piston rings and gudgeon pin.

Piston ring-to-groove clearance

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 Cylinder/piston assemblies

The maximum permissible wear limit is 0.15 mm for the top compression ring (1st) and 0.10 mm for the others (2nd
and oil control ring).

Notes
The piston rings must always be installed with markings facing upwards.

Gudgeon pin-piston clearance

Measure the diameter of the gudgeon pin bore in the piston.
Measure the diameter of the gudgeon pin.

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Maximum wear limit:

- 0.025 mm.

Notes
If you fit a new gudgeon pin, you must also change the connecting rod small end bush.

Piston ring-to-bore clearance

It is essential that the measurement be performed with the piston ring (A) positioned perfectly square in the cylinder.
For this reason, the piston (9) should be inserted in the cylinder without piston rings fitted and then place the piston
ring to be checked on top of the piston.

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 Cylinder/piston assemblies

Measure the piston ring gap:

Top and second piston ring (nominal): 0.20 to 0.40 mm.
Wear limit: 0.80 mm.
Oil control ring (nominal): 0.30 to 0.60 mm.
Wear limit: 1.0 mm.

Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly

If a new cylinder/piston assembly is to be fitted, make sure that the piston and cylinder are of the same size class.
The letter indicating the cylinder size class is stamped on the cylinder-head mating face; the piston size class letter is
stamped on the crown in between the two recesses.

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 Cylinder/piston assemblies

If the pistons have been separated from their cylinders, before reassembling these components, position the piston
ring gaps at 120° from one another (the markings must always face the piston crown).
Use a universal tool to carefully insert the piston into the cylinder (first lubricate the inside of the cylinder with engine
oil). Position the cylinder with the smallest valve pockets facing the exhaust port.

Remove any deposits and degrease the contact surfaces of the crankcase and the cylinders.
Check that the dowel (1) is installed on the crankcase.

Apply a bead of liquid gasket to the contact faces of the gasket (6):
the exact configuration of the bead of liquid gasket varies according to whether the gasket is for the (6) for the
vertical cylinder (V) and the horizontal cylinder (O). The illustrations below the the various configurations:
- Face in contact with cylinder barrel - vertical cylinder (A)
- Face in contact with crankcase - vertical cylinder (B)
- Face in contact with cylinder barrel - horizontal cylinder (C)
- Face in contact with crankcase - horizontal cylinder (D)
Locate the gasket (6) on the crankcase with the word “TOP” facing upwards.

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Using service tool no. 88700.5644, bring the small end of the connecting rod up to near TDC. Fit the piston–cylinder
assembly on the crankcase studs.

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 Cylinder/piston assemblies

Push the connecting rod small end into the piston close to the gudgeon pin (3) bore. Lubricate and insert the gudgeon
pin. The gudgeon pin must slide smoothly in the connecting rod small end bush and in the piston (9).

Stuff the crankcase opening with a cloth to prevent foreign objects from falling inside and then fit the circlip (2) using
service tool 88713.2270.

Important
Always fit new circlips (2) on reassembly.

Push the cylinder barrel (4) down until it seats against the crankcase.

Important
Locate the locating dowel (7), head gasket (11) and centring bushes (10).

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 Cylinder/piston assemblies

Repeat the procedure for the other cylinder.

Operation Section reference

Refit the cylinder heads N 4.4, Refitting the cylinder heads
Refit the timing belt pulleys and the N 4.2, Refitting the timing system
timing belts assembly
Refit the timing belt covers N 4.2, Refitting the timing belt covers
Refit the engine to the frame N 1, Refitting the engine

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 Clutch assembly: APTC wet clutch

6.1 - Clutch assembly: APTC wet clutch

1 Bolt
2 Collar
3 Clutch lifter
4 Clutch spring
5 Pressure plate
6 Bearing
7 Clutch plates
8 Nut
9 Lock washer
10 Clutch centre
11 Shim
12 Spring
13 Hub

Parts catalogue

Clutch

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

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 Clutch assembly: APTC wet clutch

Description of the APTC clutch assembly

The APTC system with servo-assisted torque and anti-wheel slip on braking.
The advantages of this system are:
prevents the unwelcome effects of excessive engine braking during hard downshifting, thus making for smoother,
-
cleaner cornering (no rear wheel slip);
reduces the amount of driver effort required to disengage the clutch. The clutch lever effort is significantly reduced,
-
without compromising the feel of the lever to the rider (servo-assisted).
The APTC system consists essentially of a splined coupling between the two parts of the clutch drum.
This coupling exploits the axial component of driving torque (bike accelerating) or reverse-acting torque (clutch
disengaged) to produce servo-assistance in the former case and prevent rear wheel slip in the latter.
In practice, this means that under acceleration (and thus with driving torque) the clutch pack will tend to be under a
greater load (from springs initially more loaded), while during hard downshifting, the reverse-acting torque will tend
to take load off the springs thus causing the plates to slip.
Before working on the internal clutch parts, check that the clutch operates correctly. Then deal with the problem in a
systematic manner.

The following is a list of possible causes of clutch malfunctions.

A clutch which does not disengage may be caused by:
- excessive play of the control lever;
- distorted clutch plates;
- incorrect spring tension;
- faulty clutch release mechanism;
- excessive wear of the hub or clutch housing.

A clutch which slips may be caused by:

- insufficient play of the control lever;
- worn clutch plates;
- weakened springs;
- faulty clutch release mechanism;
- excessive wear of the hub or clutch drum.

A noisy clutch may be caused by:

- excessive backlash between the primary drive gears;
- damaged primary drive gear teeth;
- excessive play between driving plate tabs and clutch drum;
- worn gear/clutch drum bearings;
- the presence of metal particles (filings) on the gear teeth.

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 Clutch assembly: APTC wet clutch

Removal of the APTC clutch

Operation Section reference

Drain the engine oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge
Disconnect the oil pressure sensor P 5, Checking the front and rear brake
light switches, neutral light switch, oil
pressure switch and clutch switch
Remove the clutch-side crankcase N 6.2, Removal of the clutch-side
cover crankcase cover

Screw the three tools 88713.2591 into the relative bores in the hub.

Unscrew the retaining screws (1) and remove the collars (2) and the clutch springs (4).

Remove the pressure plate (5) with the clutch control pin (3). If necessary, using a drift of suitable diameter, remove
the bearing (6) installed on the inner side of the pressure plate (5).

Hold the clutch drum with the service tool no. 88713.2556 and unscrew the nut (8).

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 Clutch assembly: APTC wet clutch

Remove the washer (9).

Withdraw the clutch hub–plates-centre assembly (B) from the clutch drum (A), marking the components so as to be
able to install them in the same position.

Remove the spacer (11) from the clutch drum (A).

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 Clutch assembly: APTC wet clutch

Disassembly of the clutch hub-plates-centre assembly

Unscrew the three tools 88713.2591.
Withdraw the hub (13) and the plates (7) from the clutch centre (10). Recover the three springs (12).
Remove the clutch plates (7) from the hub (13).

Important
When removing the plates, keep them in the same order as they were originally installed, tying them together if
necessary.

Overhaul and inspection of the APTC clutch components

Clearance between the clutch drum and friction plates

Insert a friction plate (C) in the clutch drum (A) and measure the clearance (S) with a feeler gauge.
The clearance “S” must not exceed 0.6 mm.
If it does, renew the plates and, if necessary, the clutch drum.

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 Clutch assembly: APTC wet clutch

Overhaul of the clutch plates

The clutch plates must not show any signs of blackening, grooves or deformation.
Measure the thickness of the friction plates. It should not be less than 3.2 mm.

Important
The total thickness of the clutch plate pack must not be less than 50.2 mm.

Place the plate on a flat surface and check the amount of deformation with a feeler gauge.
Max flatness error: 0.2 mm.

Overhaul of the pressure plate

Check the condition of bearing (6): renew the bearing if the play is excessive.
Check the contact surfaces of the last friction plate; if it is excessively scored, use a reference plate and diamond
lapping paste (6-12 microns thick) and rub the friction plate on it to obtain a smooth, uniform surface.
Check the condition of the spring guide cups (D) of the pressure plate (5) and always replace the spring retainer caps
(2) at each overhaul.

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 Clutch assembly: APTC wet clutch

Overhauling the pressure plate springs

Measure the length “L” of each spring (4):
- minimum length: 41 mm.
Renew any springs that are shorter than the above limit value.

Reassembly of the clutch hub-plates-centre assembly

Install the three springs (12) on the pin (E) on the drum (10).

Install the clutch plates (7) in the hub (13) starting with one of the 11 friction plates (F) and alternate with the
10 driven plates (G).

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 Clutch assembly: APTC wet clutch

Install the clutch plate assembly (7) with hub (13) in the drum (10).

Warning
When refitting the clutch centre (10) with the hub (13), align the reference notches (H) and (L).

Insert the three tools 88713.2591 to fix the hub (13) to the clutch centre (10).
Screw in the three tools 88713.2591 by hand, pressing down on the clutch plates with the hub (13), so as to
overcome the resistance of the springs.

Notes
Screw in the three tools 88713.2591 to put the clutch plates under a light load.

Refitting the APTC clutch

Locate the spacer (11) on the drum (A).

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 Clutch assembly: APTC wet clutch

Position the hub-plates-drum assembly (B) inside the drum (A).

Notes
Position the last friction plate (M) so that it is offset relative to others.

Locate the lock washer (9) on the gearbox input shaft, seating it against the clutch assembly.

Apply the recommended grease to the contact face of the nut (8) and to thread of the gearbox input shaft, then fit
the nut to the input shaft and tighten by hand.
Restrain the clutch drum with tool part no. 88713.2556 when tightening nut (8).
Tighten the nut (8) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Remove service tool no. 88713.2556.

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 Clutch assembly: APTC wet clutch

Install the pressure plate (5) in the clutch asembly (B) aligning the three tools 88713.2591 with the three indents
(N) in the pressure plate.

Check that the two codes (P) stamped on the hub (13) and the pressure plate (5) are aligned.

In each cavity, fit a spring (4) and a cap (2).

Tighten the screws (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings), working in a crosswise pattern.

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 Clutch assembly: APTC wet clutch

Unscrew and remove the service tools 88713.2591.

Operation Section reference

Refit the clutch-side crankcase N 6.2, Refitting the clutch-side crankcase
cover cover
Connect the oil pressure sensor P 5, Checking the front and rear brake
light switches, neutral light switch, oil
pressure switch and clutch switch
Top up the engine oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge

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 Clutch assembly: clutch-side crankcase cover

6.2 - Clutch assembly: clutch-side crankcase cover

1 Clutch-side crankcase cover

2 Bolt
3 Bolt
4 Oil level sight glass
5 Bolt
6 Panel (BLACK)
7 O-ring
8 Bush
9 Seal
10 Shim
11 Circlip
12 O-ring
13 Locating bush
14 Sealing washer, thickness 2
15 Plug
16 Pressure switch
17 Cover
18 Plug
19 Sealing washer
20 Bolt

Parts catalogue

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 Clutch assembly: clutch-side crankcase cover

Clutch-side crankcase cover

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the clutch-side crankcase cover

Operation Section reference

Drain the engine oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge
Disconnect the oil pressure P 5, Checking the front and rear brake light
sensor switches, neutral light switch, oil pressure
switch and clutch switch

Unscrew the bolts (2), (3) and (5) securing the clutch-side crankcase cover (1).

Tap around the edge of the cover with a plastic mallet to detach it from the crankcase.
Remove the cover (1) taking care not to damage the locating bush (13).
Check the condition of the locating bush (13) and replace if deformed.

Disassembly of the clutch-side crankcase cover

Remove the plug (15) from the cover and the relative O-ring (7), the engine oil pressure switch (16) and its seal (14).

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 Clutch assembly: clutch-side crankcase cover

Unscrew the screw (20) securing the inner cover (17).

Remove the inner cover (17) and sound-proofing panel (6).
Remove the circlip (11) and slide off the shim (10) and the oil seal (9).
The drilled bush (8) is mounted to the cover by a forced interference fit. Remove it using a suitable puller.
Inspect the oil seal (9) and renew it if necessary.

Reassembly of the clutch-side crankcase cover

Fit the plug (15) and the seal (7). Fit the pressure switch (16) and the seal (14).

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 Clutch assembly: clutch-side crankcase cover

If the bush has been replaced, fully seat the new bush (8) in the slot in the cover using a suitable drift and a press.
If the oil seal (9) needs to be renewed, fit the new seal into the crankcase cover, positioning it so the side without a
spring is facing the circlip (13).
Before fitting, check that the edges of the circlip groove show no sign of burrs which might otherwise damage the oil
seal.
Then fit the shim (10) and the circlip (11).

Important
In order for the oil seal (9) to function correctly, it must have an assembly clearance that allows the circlip (11) to
rotate.

Position the sound-proofing panel (6) inside the clutch-side crankcase cover (1), aligning it with the pin (A|) as shown
in the figure.
Position the inner cover (17) on the panel (6), aligning it with the pin (A).
Fit the screws (20) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

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 Clutch assembly: clutch-side crankcase cover

Refitting the clutch-side crankcase cover

Clean and degrease mating surfaces on the clutch-side crankcase cover and crankcase and ensure that locating bush
(13) and the O-ring (12), located in correspondence with the oil way, are installed in the crankcase.

Apply a uniform continuous bead of DUCATI liquid gasket (B) onto crankcase mating surfaces, working around all the
holes.

Fit the cover assembly (1) to the crankcase half and insert the retaining screws. Tighten the screws (2), (3) and (5)
to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings) in a crosswise pattern.

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 Clutch assembly: clutch-side crankcase cover

Operation Section reference

Connect the oil pressure sensor P 5, Checking the front and rear brake
light switches, neutral light switch, oil
pressure switch and clutch switch
Top up the engine oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge

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 Clutch assembly: primary drive gears

6.3 - Clutch assembly: primary drive gears

1 Clutch drum/Primary drive gears

2 Inner ring
3 Inner bearing
4 Spacer
5 Threaded ringnut
6 Lock washer

Parts catalogue

Clutch
connecting rods

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the primary drive gears

Operation Section reference

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 Clutch assembly: primary drive gears

Drain the engine oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge
Disconnect the oil pressure P 5, Checking the front and rear brake
sensor light switches, neutral light switch, oil
pressure switch and clutch switch
Remove the clutch-side N 6.2, Removal of the clutch-side
crankcase cover crankcase cover
Remove the clutch assembly N 6.1, Removal of the APTC clutch
Remove the oil pump N 2.1, Removal of the oil pump

Withdraw the clutch drum (1) complete with roller bearings (3) and the driven gear of the primary gear pair (A).

Remove the circlip (2) and the internal spacer (4).

Straighten out the lock washer (6) on the nut (5) securing the primary drive driving gear (B).

Restrain the primary drive gear (B) using service wrench no. 88713.2423 and unscrew the threaded nut (5) securing
the pinion.
Remove the nut (5) and lockwasher (6).

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 Clutch assembly: primary drive gears

Remove the primary driving gear (B) using puller 88713.2092 and interposing a packing piece of aluminium or
copper between the crankshaft and the screw of the puller.

Take care to recover the key (C) from the crankshaft and the internal spacer.

Refitting the primary drive gears and checking backlash

Fully degrease the crankshaft splined end and the corresponding spline on the primary drive gear.
Check that the key (C) and internal spacer (D) are in position on the crankshaft.

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 Clutch assembly: primary drive gears

Fit the driving gear (B) onto the crankshaft with the oil pump drive sprocket facing the crankcase.
Temporarily secure the gear with the washer (6) and nut (5).

Important
If fitting a new primary driving gear (B), check the backlash.

To check the gear backlash, temporarily fit the clutch drum (1) complete with internal spacer (4), driven gear (A),
roller bearing (3) and internal bush (2) on the gearbox input shaft. Fix a dial gauge to the engine crankcase,
positioning the stylus against a gear tooth.
Turn the driven gear (A) to mesh the teeth and check with the dial tool that backlash ranges between 0.05 and
0.07 mm.
Repeat the check at 16 different points of the driven gear.
If the measured values are outside the permissible tolerance limits, try changing the position of driven gear (A) on
the input shaft, leaving the driving gear (B) on the crankshaft. If the backlash is still outside the tolerance limits,
renew the primary drive gear pair (1).

After checking the backlash, restrain the driving gear (B) with service wrench no. 88713.2423 and tighten the
nut (5) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Stake the lock washer (6) onto the nut (5).

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 Clutch assembly: primary drive gears

Refit the oil pump and check the backlash between the oil pump gear and primary drive gear on the crankshaft
(Sect. N 2.1, Refitting the oil pump).
Thoroughly degrease the mating surfaces of the clutch drum (1), the internal bearing (3) and the bush (2).
Fit the internal spacer (4) to the input shaft with its flat side facing outwards. Install the inner bush (2) and clutch
drum (1) with driven gear (A) complete with roller bearing (3).

Operation Section reference

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 Clutch assembly: primary drive gears

Refit the complete clutch N 6.1, Refitting the APTC clutch

assembly
Refit the clutch-side crankcase N 6.2, Refitting the clutch-side crankcase
cover cover
Connect the oil pressure sensor P 5, Checking the front and rear brake
light switches, neutral light switch, oil
pressure switch and clutch switch
Refill the engine with oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge

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 Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism

7.1 - Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism

1 Return spring
2 Washer
3 Special bolt
4 Gear pawl assembly
5 Interlock plunger holder
6 Sealing washer
7 Detent ball spring
8 Ball
9 Circlip
10 Selector claw return spring
11 Shim
12 Circlip
13 Nut
14 Selector drum control fork
15 Gearchange lever pin
16 Shaft with gearchange lever arm
17 Gearchange lever arm return spring
18 Bolt
19 Spacer
20 Bolt
21 Gearchange mechanism
22 Locating ring
23 Stop plate
24 Shim

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 Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism

Parts catalogue

Gearchange control

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the gearchange mechanism

Operation Section reference

Drain the engine oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge
Remove the gearchange control F 5, Removal of the gearchange control
Remove the clutch slave cylinder F 2, Removal of the clutch slave cylinder
Remove the front sprocket G 8, Removal of the front sprocket
Remove the alternator cover and N 8, Flywheel-alternator
flywheel/alternator assembly

Unscrew and remove the gear selector mechanism (21) retaining bolts (18) and (20).
Remove the bolts (18) and (20), and the spacer (19) and withdraw the gear selector mechanism complete with the
gear lever shaft, spring and stop plate.

Important
Visually inspect the gear selector claw (14) for wear, particularly around the area where it contacts the selector drum.

Disassembly of the gear selector mechanism

If it is necessary to renew any components, disassemble the gearchange mechanism as shown in the exploded view.

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 Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism

Reassembly of the gearchange mechanism

If the components of the gearchange mechanism were dismantled on removal, fit the spring (17) on the shaft (16) in
the position indicated in the photo. Grease the threaded end of the eccentric gearchange lever pin (15) and install it
on the upper part of the gearchange lever, securing it with the nut (13). Screw the nut on by hand (do not tighten).

Insert the shaft (16) in stop plate (23) and washer (24) and secure with circlip (9).

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 Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism

Ensure that the shaft with lever (16) is positioned correctly relative to stop plate (23). The edges of the plate must be
equidistant from the pin of the lever; to adjust the position, loosen the locknut (13) and turn eccentric pin (15).

Position the spring (10) between the shaft (16) and the fork (14).
Fit the ring (12) to secure the assembly.
Check that the spring (10) is installed correctly as shown in the figure.
Tighten the nut (13) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

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 Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism

Disassembly of the gear interlock plunger and pawl assembly

Operation Section reference

Drain the engine oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge
Disconnect the oil pressure P 5, Checking the front and rear brake light
sensor switches, neutral light switch, oil pressure
switch and clutch switch
Remove the clutch-side N 6.2, Removal of the clutch-side crankcase
crankcase cover cover
Remove the clutch assembly N 6.1, Removal of the APTC clutch
Remove the oil pump N 2.1, Removal of the oil pump
Remove the clutch drum N 6.3, Removal of the primary drive gears

Unscrew the interlock plunger screw (5) and remove seal (6), spring (7) and detent ball (8).

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 Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism

Unscrew the clutch-side crankcase screw (3) and remove the pawl (4), washer (2) and spring (1).

Reassembly of the gear interlock plunger and pawl assembly

On the special bolt (3), fit the gear pawl lever (4), orienting it as shown in the figure, the washer (2) with the square
edge side (D) facing the clutch-side crankcase, and the spring (1), positioning it so that the hook end (A) is facing the
gear pawl lever. Locate the hook end (A) of the spring on the gear pawl lever as shown in the figure.
Apply threadlocker to the bolt thread.
Start the bolt in the crankcase half. Position end (B) of the spring so that it rests against rib (C) of the crankcase half,
as shown in the figure. Tighten the bolt (3) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings). Check that the
spring functions correctly by manually moving the gear pawl lever.

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 Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism

Apply grease and then fit the ball (8), spring (7), and seal (6) into interlock plunger (5) and screw the interlock
plunger assembly into the crankcase.
Tighten the gear interlock plunger to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Operation Section reference

Refit the clutch drum. N 6.3, Refitting the primary drive gears
and checking backlash
Refit the complete clutch N 6.1, Refitting the APTC clutch
assembly
Refit the clutch-side crankcase N 6.2, Refitting the clutch-side crankcase
cover cover
Connect the oil pressure sensor P 5, Checking the front and rear brake
light switches, neutral light switch, oil
pressure switch and clutch switch
Refill the engine with oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge

Refitting the gearchange mechanism

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 Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism

Locate the gearbox drum selector claw in the centre of the gearbox roller bearings.
Position the gearchange mechanism (21) in the chain-side crankcase.

Fit the bolts (18) and (20) with the spacer (19).
Temporarily fit the gearchange lever (or a service lever) and the front sprocket, and put the gearbox in neutral.

Fit the service tool no. 88713.3334 on the selector claw.

Position the service tool so that the locating dowel (A) engages the hole in the tool and pin (B) of the tool is engaged
in the selector claw, applying hand pressure at point (C) and pressing to the right.

In this position, tighten first the gearchange mechanism retaining bolt (18) and then bolt (20) to the specified torque
(Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

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 Gearbox assembly: gearchange mechanism

Remove the service tool and check that the pin (D) on the selector drum is aligned with mark (E) on the selector claw.
With the gearbox in neutral, check that the lever travel is the same when shifting up and down. The same should
apply when a gear is engaged.
Operate the gearchange lever and turn the front sprocket at the same time to check that all the gears engage when
shifting up and down.
Remove the gearbox lever.

Operation Section reference

Refit the flywheel/alternator N 8, Refitting the flywheel-alternator
assembly and alternator-side assembly
crankcase cover
Refit the front sprocket G 8, Refitting the front sprocket
Refit the clutch slave cylinder F 2, Refitting the clutch slave cylinder
Refit the gearchange control F 5, Refitting the gearchange control
Fill the engine with oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge

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 Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts

7.2 - Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts

1 Shim, thickness 1
2 Gearbox input shaft
3 Shim, thickness 0.5
4 Needle roller bearing
5 5th speed driving gear.
6 Splined washer, thickness 0.5
7 Circlip
8 3rd-4th speed driving gear.
9 6th speed driving gear.
10 2nd speed driving gear.
11 Shim, thickness 1.8
12 Splined washer, thickness 0.5
13 Selector drum
14 Special needle roller (square cross-section)
15 Shim
16 Selector drum assembly
17 Needle roller bearing
18 1st speed driven gear.
19 Shim, thickness 1
20 5th speed driven gear.
21 4th speed driven gear.
22 3rd speed driven gear.

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 Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts

23 6th speed driven gear

24 2nd speed driven gear.
25 Gearbox output shaft
26 Shim
27 Shim, thickness 1
28 1st, 4th-2nd, 3rd speed selector fork.
29 5th, 6th speed selector fork.
30 Selector fork shaft
31 Shim, thickness 1
32 Roller retaining ring

Parts catalogue

Gearchange control
Gearbox

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the gearbox assembly

Operation Section reference

Remove the engine from the N 1, Removal of the engine
frame
Remove the clutch-side crankcase N 6.2, Removal of the clutch-side
cover crankcase cover
Remove the clutch assembly N 6.1, Removal of the APTC clutch
Remove the lubrication system N 2.1, Removal of the oil pump
Remove the alternator-side N 8, Removal of the alternator-side
crankcase cover crankcase cover
Remove the engine starting P 3, Electric starting system
system
Remove the timing belt covers N 4.2, Removal of the timing belt covers
Remove the timing belts N 4.2, Removal of the timing system
assembly
Remove the cylinder heads N 4.4, Removal of the cylinder head
assembly
Remove the cylinder barrel/piston N 5, Removal of the cylinder/piston
assemblies assembly
Remove the gearchange N 7.1, Removal of the gearchange
mechanism mechanism
Remove the gear interlock plunger N 7.1, Disassembly of the gear interlock
plunger and pawl assembly
Separation of the crankcase N 9.2, Separation of the crankcase halves
halves

Withdraw the selector fork shafts (30).

Move the forks (28) and (29) to disengage them from the slots in the selector drum (13).
Withdraw the selector drum (13) taking care not to lose shims (31) and (27) mounted on the shaft. Note that the
positions of the shims must not be inverted.
Now you can renew the needle roller retaining ring (32) and the special needle rollers (14).

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 Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts

Remove gear selector forks (29) and (28).

Remove the gearbox input (2) and output (25) shafts complete with gears, taking care to recover the spacers on the
ends of the shafts.
If the bearing inner races are left on the shafts, slide them off the ends of the gearbox input (2) and output (25)
shafts (Sect. N 9.2, Overhaul of the main bearings).

After removing them from the shafts, install them in the respective outer bearings in the engine crankcase half.

Disassembly of the gearbox shafts

Place the shaft in a vice in such a way as to facilitate the disassembly operations.

Important
Take care not to invert the positions of the shims on reassembly:
this would potentially lead to jamming when using the gear selector control, making it necessary to reopen the engine
crankcase.

Disassembly of the gearbox output shaft

Remove the chain-side shim (15) and clutch-side shim (26) from the output shaft.

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 Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts

Withdraw the first speed driven gear (18) with the roller cage (17) and the shim (19).

Remove the fifth speed driven gear (20).

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 Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts

Use two flat blade screwdrivers to remove the circlip (7) taking care not to damage the shaft surface.
Remove the circlip (7) and the splined washer (6).

Withdraw the fourth speed driven gear (21) with the roller cage (4) and splined washer (12).

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 Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts

Remove the third speed driven gear (22) with the roller cage (4) and the splined washer (6).

Remove the circlip (7) and remove the sixth speed driven gear (23).

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 Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts

Remove the circlip (7) and withdraw the splined washer (6) and the second speed driven gear (24).

Withdraw the roller cage (4) and the shim (3). All the components have thus been removed from gearbox output
shaft (25).

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 Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts

Disassembly of the gearbox input shaft

Remove the chain-side shim (11) and the clutch-side shim (1) from the input shaft.

Remove the second speed driving gear (10). Use two screwdrivers to prise out the circlip (7) and the splined
washer (6).

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 Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts

Important
Take care to avoid damaging the surface of the shaft while removing circlip (7).
Remove the sixth speed driving gear (9) with its roller cage (4). Remove the splined washer (6) and the circlip (7).

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 Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts

Withdraw the third and fourth speed driving gear (8).

Remove the circlip (7) and the splined washer (6).

Remove the fifth speed driving gear (5) with the roller cage (4).

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 Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts

Slide the shim (3) off the input shaft (2).

Overhaul of the gearbox

Check the condition of the front coupling dogs of the gears. They must be in perfect condition and with no sign of
wear on the edges of the teeth.
The idler gears must rotate freely on their shafts.
When refitting, make sure the circlips are correctly positioned.
Check the needle roller bearings for wear.
The threads and splines of the shafts must be in perfect condition.

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 Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts

Also check that the component parts of the gear selector mechanism are in good condition.
Engage the gears and check that the gearchange mechanism does not stick (selector fork - gear groove, and fork pin
- desmodromic drum groove) due to incorrect end float. Restore the correct endfloat by shimming the gearbox shafts
and the selector drum with suitable shims.
For the total gearbox shaft and selector drum end float values, refer to Section C 1.1, Gearbox.

Inspection of the gear selector forks

Visually inspect the gear selector forks. Bent forks must be renewed as they may lead to difficulties in gear changing
or may suddenly disengage when under load.
Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance of each fork in its gear groove.
If the service limit has been exceeded, check whether or not it is necessary to renew the gear or the fork by referring
to the limits specified for each part (Sect. C 1.1, Gearbox).

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 Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts

Inspection of the gear selector drum

Use a gauge to measure the clearance between fork pin and the slot on the selector drum.
If the service limit is exceeded, determine which part must be renewed by comparing these dimensions with those of
new components (Sect. C 1.1, Gearbox).
Also check the wear on the drum support pins; these must not show any signs of scoring, burrs, or deformation.
Turn the drum in the crankcase to establish the extent of radial play. If play is excessive, change whichever part is
most worn.

Reassembly of the gearbox shafts

Figure 1 shows all the parts to be reassembled on the gearbox input shaft (2), with the calculated end shims (1) and
(11) (Sect. N 9.2, Shimming the shafts).

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 Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts

Figure 2 shows all the parts to be reassembled on the gearbox output shaft (25), with calculated end shims (15) and
(26) (Sect. N 9.2, Shimming the shafts).

Reassemble the gears on the gearbox shafts by reversing the disassembly procedure.
Take particular care when installing the idler gears. The assembly of the 3rd and 4th speed gears and the relative
fixing components on the output shaft is given as an example.
Fit the circlip (7), checking that it is fully inserted into its groove on the shaft. Push the circlip into position with a
suitable size tubular drift.

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 Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts

Slide the washer with three internal points (6) over the shaft until it locates against the circlip you have just fitted.

To fit the needle roller cage (4) onto the shaft, first lubricate it with plenty of grease (of recommended type) and then
open it slightly to make it easier to slide on to the shaft.
Fit the 3rd speed gear (22).

Fit the three-pointed washer (12), which can be distinguished from its counterpart (6) by its bigger outside diameter.

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 Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts

Fit another needle roller cage (4) using the method already described.
Fit the 4th speed gear (21).

Fit another 3-pointed washer (6) and another circlip (7) onto the shaft. Seat the circlip using the drift used previously.

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 Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts

Reassembly of the gearbox

To reassemble the gearbox components follow the procedure under Sect. N 9.2 relating to “Reassembly of the
crankcase halves”.

As a final practical test, ensure that with the gearbox in neutral the front coupling dogs (A) of sliding gears (B) are
equidistant on both sides with respect to the corresponding coupling dogs on the fixed gears (C).
Check also that there is always a small amount of clearance between fork (D) and relative groove (E) on sliding gear

(B) when engaging the gears.

Operation Section reference

Reassemble the engine crankcase N 9.2, Reassembly of the crankcase
halves halves
Refit the gear interlock plunger N 7.1, Reassembly of the gear
interlock plunger and pawl assembly
Refit the gearchange mechanism N 7.1, Refitting the gearchange
mechanism
Refit the cylinder barrel/piston N 5, Refitting the cylinder/piston
assemblies assembly

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 Gearbox assembly: gearbox shafts

Refit the cylinder heads N 4.4, Refitting the cylinder head

assembly
Refit the timing belts N 4.2, Refitting the timing system
assembly
Refit the timing belt covers N 4.2, Refitting the timing belt covers
Refit the engine starter system P 3, Electric starting system
Refit the alternator-side crankcase N 8, Refitting the alternator-side
cover crankcase cover
Refit the clutch slave cylinder F 2, Refitting the clutch slave cylinder
Refit the gearchange control F 5, Refitting the gearchange control
Refit the lubrication system N 2.1, Refitting the oil pump
Refit the clutch assembly N 6.1, Refitting the APTC clutch
Refit the clutch-side crankcase cover N 6.2, Refitting the clutch-side
crankcase cover
Refit the engine to the frame N 1, Refitting the engine

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 Flywheel-alternator

8 - Flywheel-alternator

1 Front sprocket cover

2 Pick-up sensor inspection screw
3 Seal
4 O-ring
5 Cover
6 Bolt
7 Washer
8 Spacer
9 Cable guide
10 Bolt
11 Bolt
12 Bolt
13 Flange
14 Cable clip
15 Washer
16 Flywheel
17 Washer
18 Inner ring
19 Needle roller bearing
20 Electric starter driven gear
21 Starter clutch
22 Flywheel-starter clutch assembly
23 Alternator rotor
24 Bolt

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 Flywheel-alternator

25 Bolt
26 Bearing
27 Circlip
28 Alternator-side crankcase cover
29 Locating bush
30 Bracket
31 Bolt
32 Alternator stator
33 Belleville washer
34 Flanged nut

Parts catalogue

Alternator-side crankcase cover

Electric starting and ignition

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the alternator-side crankcase cover

Operation Section reference

Drain the engine oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge
Remove the gearchange control F 5, Removal of the gearchange control
Remove the clutch slave cylinder F 2, Removal of the clutch slave cylinder
Remove the LH footrest H 4, Removal of the footrest brackets
Remove the front sprocket cover G 8, Removal of the front sprocket

Notes
For clarity, the figures show the engine block removed from the frame.

Unscrew the bolts (11) and remove the chain guard (1).
Unscrew the two retaining bolts (6) of the centre cap (5) over the end of the crankshaft.

Unscrew the left-hand crankcase cover bolts (10), (11) and (12).
Recover the spacers (8), the washers (15) and the hose guides (9) and (14).

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 Flywheel-alternator

Fix service tool no. 88713.1749 to the holes left vacant by the two bolts (6) you have just removed.
Turn the tool shaft slowly to separate the cover (28) from the LH crankcase half.

Disassembly of the alternator-side crankcase cover

Undo the three stator retaining bolts (24) and the two bolts (31) securing the cable guide bracket (30) from inside
the alternator-side crankcase cover.
Remove the stator (32) and the cable guide (30).

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 Flywheel-alternator

The alternator-side crankcase cover is fitted with a bearing (26), held in place by circlip (27), which locates on the
end of the crankshaft.
Remove the circlip (27) with circlip pliers.
Remove the bearing (26) using a universal puller.

Removal of the flywheel-alternator assembly

Use service tool no. 88713.2036 fixed to the M10 sidestand fixing holes (D).
Secure the tool to the flywheel with the bolt (E).

Unscrew the alternator/flywheel nut (34), heating it with a hot air gun; do not use a naked flame as this could
damage the starting system components.

Warning
While unscrewing the nut, apply axial pressure to the socket to avoid damage or injury in the event of the wrench
suddenly slipping off the nut.

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 Flywheel-alternator

Remove the nut (34), the Belleville washer (33) and the flywheel assembly (22) complete with the gear (20).

Remove the inner race (18), the needle roller bearing (19) and the washer (17).

Important
Examine the inner race (18), needle roller bearing (19) and internal washer (17) for wear.

Notes
The hole in the inner race (18) allows the passage of oil for lubrication of needle roller bearing (19).

Checking the flywheel/alternator assembly

Examine the inner part of alternator rotor (23) for signs of damage.
Check that the starter clutch is working properly and that the needle races do not show signs of wear or damage of
any kind.
If there is any malfunction, remove the whole assembly.

Disassembly of the flywheel-alternator assembly.

Unscrew the eight bolts (25) and remove the alternator rotor (23) from the flywheel.

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 Flywheel-alternator

Insert two of the bolts (25) just removed from flywheel rotor-side in their holes in order to remove the flange (13)
and the starter clutch (21) from the flywheel (16).
The starter clutch is a slight interference fit on the flange. To remove it, use a suitable drift.

Reassembly of the flywheel-alternator assembly

Install the starter clutch (21) in the flange (13), making sure it is properly seated.

Important
Orient the flange so that the side with the bevelled edge (A) faces the starter clutch.

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 Flywheel-alternator

Seat the flange (13) with the starter clutch in the flywheel (16), aligning the flange locating hole (B) with the flywheel
locating hole (C).
When refitting the flange to flywheel, insert a pin or a wrench inside the hole (C) for the rotor flywheel locating dowel
in order to line up the flywheel holes with the flange threads. This is a useful tip, as the holes cannot be aligned after
having fitted the flange to the flywheel due to the interference fit.
Orient the flange so that the side with the bevelled edge faces the flywheel.

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 Flywheel-alternator

Install the rotor (23) on the flywheel (16), aligning the flywheel locating hole (E) with the rotor locating hole (D).

Apply threadlocker to the rotor/flywheel fixing bolts (25) and start them in their threads.

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 Flywheel-alternator

Tighten the bolts (25) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Install the driven gear (20) on the starter clutch, ensuring it is properly seated.

Check that the driven gear can rotate freely in the direction of the green arrow but not in the direction of the red
arrow.
If either of these two conditions is not met, this means that the starter clutch has not been installed correctly.

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 Flywheel-alternator

Refitting the flywheel-alternator assembly

Fit the washer (17) (suitably lubricated), needle roller bearing (19), and inner race (18) to the crankshaft. Make sure
the inner race is centred relative to the washer.

Install the flywheel-rotor-driven gear assembly on the crankshaft, taking care not to alter the position of the inner
race (18) relative to the washer (17).
The flywheel reference mark must be aligned with the groove on the crankshaft, in correspondence with the keyway.

Lubricate the contact surfaces of Belleville washer (33) with engine oil.
Fit the Belleville washer (33) on the end of the crankshaft.

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 Flywheel-alternator

Apply the recommended threadlocker to the threads of the crankshaft and the flywheel nut (34).

Restrain the rotation of the flywheel with the holding tool 88713.2036.

Important
Tighten the nut (34) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Remove all traces of Loctite from the threads of the nut (34) and the crankshaft (A).

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 Flywheel-alternator

Reassembly of the alternator-side crankcase cover

Fit the stator (32) to the crankcase cover, routing the cable through the notch in the cover.
Apply threadlocker to the stator fixing bolts (24) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque
settings).
Fit the cable clamp (30) and fix it to the cover with the two bolts (31).
Before refitting, make sure that the crankshaft end bearing (26) and relative retaining ring (27) are installed in the
alternator-side crankcase cover (28).

Refitting the alternator-side crankcase cover

Remove any scale and grease from the mating surfaces of the left-hand crankcase half and the crankcase cover.
Fit the two locating bushes (29).

Spread a continuous uniform bead of DUCATI liquid gasket on the mating surface of the cover (28), ensuring
continuity around the holes for the retaining bolts and locating bushes.
Tap the cover at different positions with a rubber mallet to facilitate its location on the shafts and locating bushes.

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 Flywheel-alternator

Insert the retaining bolts in their holes following the indications given in the table.

Ref. Qty Description

10 2 M6x20 mm bolts
11 8 M6x25 mm bolts
12 3 M6x30 mm bolts
Under the screw (12), located in correspondence with the starter motor, fit the spacers (8), hose clips (9) and (14),
and washers (15).
Tighten the fixing bolts to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

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 Flywheel-alternator

Dampen the oil seal (3) with alcohol and install it in the alternator-side crankcase cover, in correspondence with the
gearchange shaft (Sect. F 5, Refitting the gearchange control), using the specific installation tool 88713.1411.

Make sure that the O-ring (4) is installed in the cover (5).
Apply threadlocker to the bolts (6).
Tighten the two retaining bolts (6) of the inspection cover (5) over the end of the crankshaft to the specified torque
(Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
Refit the chain guard (1) and tighten the bolts (11).

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 Flywheel-alternator

Operation Section reference

Refit the sprocket cover G 8, Refitting the front sprocket
Refit the LH footrest H 4, Refitting the footrest brackets
Refit the clutch slave cylinder F 2, Refitting the clutch slave cylinder
Refit the gearchange control F 5, Refitting the gearchange control
Top up the engine oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge

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 Crankcase assembly: external components

9.1 - Crankcase assembly: external components

1 Key
2 Timing gear pair
3 Lock washer
4 Hex nut
5 Key
6 Sealing washer
7 Plug
8 Aluminium gasket
9 Plug
10 Breather valve
11 O-ring
12 Cylinder barrel-head stud bolt
13 Locating dowel
14 Connection fitting
15 Plug
16 Sealing washer, thickness 2
17 Connection fitting
18 Gauze pickup filter
19 Neutral switch
20 Sealing washer
21 Gear shaft
22 Washer
23 Starter motor gear
24 Washer
25 Circlip
26 Bolt
27 Plug
28 Sealing washer

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 Crankcase assembly: external components

29 Sealing washer
30 Bolt
31 Bolt
32 Washer
33 O-ring
34 Pickup sensor
35 Grub screw

Parts catalogue

Timing system
Filters and oil pump
Crankcase halves
Electric starting and ignition
Gearchange control

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of external components

Operation Section reference

Remove the engine from the frame N 1, Removal of the engine
Remove the clutch-side crankcase N 6.2, Removal of the clutch-side
cover crankcase cover
Remove the clutch assembly N 6.1, Removal of the APTC clutch
Remove the oil pump N 2.1, Removal of the oil pump
Remove the alternator-side N 8, Removal of the alternator-side
crankcase cover crankcase cover
Remove the engine starting P 3, Electric starting system
system
Remove the timing belt covers N 4.2, Removal of the timing belt covers
Remove the timing belts N 4.2, Removal of the timing system
assembly
Remove the cylinder heads N 4.4, Removal of the cylinder head
assembly
Remove the cylinder barrel/piston N 5, Removal of the cylinder/piston
assemblies assembly

Notes
The following removal operations are required in order to renew and/or clean the crankcase halves. If the original
crankcase halves are to be reused, then the removal of these components is not essential.

Unscrew the bolt (30) and remove the oil breather valve (10) with the O-rings (11). Check the condition of O-rings
(11) and renew them if necessary.

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 Crankcase assembly: external components

Unscrew and remove the oil inlet and outlet connection fittings (14) from the clutch-side crankcase half and recover
the seals (8).

Unscrew and remove the oil filter cartridge (Sect. D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge).
Unscrew and remove the oil filter support connection fitting (17).

Remove the gauze pickup filter (18) with its seal from the clutch-side crankcase half as described in Section D 4,
Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge.

Unscrew the plug (27), taking care to recover the relative seal (28).

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 Crankcase assembly: external components

Remove drain plug (9) with its seal (29).

Remove the neutral switch (19) with seal (20).

Remove the cylinder head studs (12) with the aid of the appropriate tool.

To remove the engine sensor (34), unscrew the screw (31) and recover the shim (24) and the washer (32).

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 Crankcase assembly: external components

Check the condition of O-rings (33) in the crankcase half and renew them if necessary.

Refitting the external components

Check the condition of O-rings (11) and renew if necessary.
Install the oil vapour breather valve (10) in the crankcase along with O-rings (11), previously lubricated.
Tighten the bolt (30) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

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 Crankcase assembly: external components

Fit the seals (8) on the connection fittings (14) on the small diameter sides of the fittings. Apply the recommended
threadlocker to the smaller diamater threads of the connections fittings (14).
Tighten the connection fittings (14) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Apply the recommended threadlocker to the connection fitting (17).

Tighten the oil filter support connection fitting (17) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Screw in the drain plug (9) with its seal (29) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings),
after applying the recommended threadlocker.

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 Crankcase assembly: external components

Refit the neutral switch (19) with its seal (20) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Apply threadlocker to the plug (27), fit it with its seal (28) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine
torque settings).

Refit the gauze pickup filter (18) with its seal as described in Section D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter cartridge.

Now fit the studs (12) in the crankcase halves, applying threadlocker and tightening to the specified torque value
(Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings). Use a tool of the type shown in the illustration.

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 Crankcase assembly: external components

Check that the O-rings (33) are installed in the crankcase.

Fit the engine pickup (34) in its seat in the crankcase.

Insert the bolt (31) with the washer (32) and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the engine pickup (34) and the timing gear (2). The value must be
between 0.6 and 0.8 mm.

If removed, apply threadlocker to the grub screw (35) and tighten it to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque
settings) and fit the seal (16) to the service plug (15): the seal must be oriented so that the square edge faces the
clutch-side crankcase. Apply the recommended threadlocker to the thread of the plug (15) and tighten it to the
specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

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 Crankcase assembly: external components

Operation Section reference

Refit the cylinder barrel/piston N 5, Refitting the cylinder/piston
assemblies assembly
Refit the cylinder heads N 4.4, Refitting the cylinder head
assembly
Refit the timing belts N 4.2, Refitting the timing system
assembly
Refit the timing belt covers N 4.2, Refitting the timing belt covers
Refit the engine starter system P 3, Electric starting system
Refit the alternator-side crankcase N 8, Refitting the alternator-side
cover crankcase cover
Refit the oil pump N 2.1, Refitting the oil pump
Refit the clutch assembly N 6.1, Refitting the APTC clutch
Refit the clutch-side crankcase cover N 6.2, Refitting the clutch-side
crankcase cover
Refit the engine to the frame N 1, Refitting the engine

Removal of the timing gears

Operation Section reference

Drain the engine oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge
Remove the gearchange control F 5, Removal of the gearchange control
Remove the clutch slave cylinder F 2, Removal of the clutch slave cylinder
Remove the LH footrest H 4, Removal of the footrest brackets

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 Crankcase assembly: external components

Remove the front sprocket cover G 8, Removal of the front sprocket

Remove the alternator-side N 8, Removal of the alternator-side
crankcase cover crankcase cover
Remove the flywheel/alternator N 8, Removal of the flywheel-alternator
assembly assembly

Slide out driving gear (A) of timing gear pair (2).

Relieve the staking on the lock washer (3) of the nut (4).
Restrain the driven timing gear by inserting a pin in one of the holes, and unscrew the nut (4).

Slide off the nut (4), the washer (3) and the driven timing gear (B).

Refitting the timing gears

Before refitting, check the wear on the timing gear pair (2) and renew if necessary.

Important
The timing gears (2) must always be renewed as a pair.

Check that the Woodruff key (1) on the timing gear driveshaft and the Woodruff key (5) on the crankshaft are both
present.

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 Crankcase assembly: external components

Refitting is the reverse of removal.

Important
On completion of the refitting operations, check that tab washer (3) is staked against nut (4) in such a way as to
prevent the nut from working loose.

Operation Section reference

Refit the flywheel/alternator N 8, Refitting the flywheel-alternator
assembly assembly
Refit the alternator-side crankcase N 8, Refitting the alternator-side
cover crankcase cover
Refit the sprocket cover G 8, Refitting the front sprocket
Refit the LH footrest H 4, Refitting the footrest brackets
Refit the clutch slave cylinder F 2, Refitting the clutch slave cylinder
Refit the gearchange control F 5, Refitting the gearchange control
Fill the engine with oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge

Removal of the starter motor idler gear

Operation Section reference

Drain the engine oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge
Remove the gearchange control F 5, Removal of the gearchange control
Remove the clutch slave cylinder F 2, Removal of the clutch slave cylinder
Remove the LH footrest H 4, Removal of the footrest brackets

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 Crankcase assembly: external components

Remove the front sprocket cover G 8, Removal of the front sprocket

Remove the alternator-side N 8, Removal of the alternator-side
crankcase cover crankcase cover
Remove the flywheel/alternator N 8, Removal of the flywheel-alternator
assembly assembly

Remove the circlip (25) and the washer (24).

Remove the starter motor idler gear (23) and shim (22).
Unscrew the bolt (26) securing the idler gear shaft (21) and remove the shaft.

Refitting the starter motor idler gear

Refitting is the reverse of removal.

Notes
Apply the prescribed threadlocker to the bolt (26) and tighten to the prescribed torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque
settings).

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 Crankcase assembly: external components

Operation Section reference

Refit the flywheel/alternator N 8, Refitting the flywheel-alternator
assembly assembly
Refit the alternator-side crankcase N 8, Refitting the alternator-side
cover crankcase cover
Refit the sprocket cover G 8, Refitting the front sprocket
Refit the LH footrest H 4, Refitting the footrest brackets
Refit the clutch slave cylinder F 2, Refitting the clutch slave cylinder
Refit the gearchange control F 5, Refitting the gearchange control
Fill the engine with oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge

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 Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves

9.2 - Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves

1 Circlip
2 Timing belt driveshaft
3 Alternator-side crankcase half
4 Bearing
5 O-ring
6 Circlip
7 Bearing
8 Bolt
9 Retaining plate
10 Bearing
11 Seal
12 Bearing
13 Seal
14 Bearing
15 Bearing
16 Clutch-side crankcase half
17 Spacer
18 Bolt
19 Bush
20 Seal
21 Bearing
22 Bolt
23 Bearing
24 Grub screw

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 Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves

25 Bolt
26 Bolt

Parts catalogue

Timing system
Crankcase halves

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Separation of the crankcase halves

Operation Section reference

Remove the engine from the N 1, Removal of the engine
frame
Remove the clutch-side crankcase N 6.2, Removal of the clutch-side
cover crankcase cover
Remove the clutch assembly N 6.1, Removal of the APTC clutch
Remove the oil pump N 2.1, Removal of the oil pump
Remove the primary gear N 6.3, Removal of the primary drive gears
Remove the alternator-side N 8, Removal of the alternator-side
crankcase cover crankcase cover
Removal of the flywheel/ N 8, Removal of the flywheel-alternator
alternator assembly assembly
Remove the starter idler gear N 9.1, Removal of the starter motor idler
gear
Remove the starter motor P 3, Removal of the starter motor
Remove the timing belt covers N 4.2, Removal of the timing belt covers
Remove the timing belts N 4.2, Removal of the timing system
assembly
Remove the cylinder head N 4.4, Removal of the cylinder head
assemblies assembly
Remove the cylinder barrel/piston N 5, Removal of the cylinder/piston
assemblies assembly
Remove the gauze pickup filter D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge

Use two screwdrivers to prise the circlip (1) from the timing gear driveshaft (2) on the clutch-side crankcase half.

Notes
Take care to avoid scoring the surface of the shaft while removing the circlip.

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 Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves

Unscrew the crankcase bolts (22), (25) and (26) from the alternator-side crankcase half (3).

Unscrew the two bolts (22) on the clutch-side crankcase half (16) near the vertical cylinder.

Re-use the alternator-side crankcase cover or a service cover with puller 88713.1749. Secure it to the crankcase
half using several of the original bolts and begin to separate the crankcase halves by turning the central pin of the
tool.
Tap the end of the gearbox output shaft with a rubber mallet to separate the crankcase halves.

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 Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves

Notes
Take care not to lose the shims on the shafts and on the selector drum.

Remove the gearbox shafts and gearbox selector drum from the crankcase (Sect. N 7.2, Removal of the gearbox
assembly).
Drive out the crankshaft (C) using a rubber mallet and taking care not to lose the shims (D).
Remove the timing belt driveshaft (2).
Recover the O-Ring (5) from the communicating oil way between the crankcase halves.

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 Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves

Overhaul of the crankcase halves

Carefully examine the engine crankcase halves.
Check that the surfaces of the crankcases are perfectly flat using a reference surface. Check that the bearings (4) and
(23) are in good condition. Note that the main bearings must always be changed in pairs (refer to the procedure
below in “Overhaul of the main bearings”).

Notes
When overhauling an engine it is good practice to renew all the crankcase bearings.

Renew the bearings (10) and (15) on the ends of the gearbox output shaft and the timing belt driveshaft bearings (7)
and (21).
After having renewed the gearbox shaft bearings (14) and (12), secure them in the crankcase with the spacers (17)
and the retaining plate (9) fixed respectively with screws (18) and (8).
At each overhaul it is recommended to renew also the oil seal (13) located between the bearing (12) and the chain-
side crankcase half. lubricate the oil seal with denatured alcohol and install it in the crankcase half, orienting it as
shown.

At each overhaul it is recommended to renew also the oil seal (11) located outside the bearing (10) and the oil seal
(20) outside of the bearing (21).

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 Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves

Check the condition of locating bushes (19). In the event of evident signs of distortion or excessive assembly
clearance in their bores, remove the locating bushes using appropriate tools.
If the removal of the bushes (19) from the casing proves difficult, use a left-handed thread tap to force the bushes
out.

Important
The bushes (19) must always be renewed when they have been removed using the above procedure.

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 Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves

Overhaul of the main bearings

The main bearings have are of the angular contact type with offset inner races so that the balls transmit loads from
one groove to the other along straight lines at an angle to the axis of the bearing. Angular contact bearings are
designed to bear combined loads (radial and- thrust loading).
Bearings of this type can withstand thrust loads in one direction only. In fact, under the action of a radial load inside
the bearing, an axial force is created that must be counterbalanced by an axial force acting in the opposite direction;
that is why these bearings are generally fitted back to back in pairs.
To renew the bearings proceed as follows:
- heat the crankcase half in an oven to 100 °C;
- remove the bearing using a drift and hammer;
install the new bearing (while the crankcase is still hot) keeping it perfectly square in its seat using a tubular drift
-
that only bears on the outer ring of the bearing;
- allow the parts to cool and check that the bearing is securely seated in the crankcase.

Important
On worn engines, the outer races of the bearing may no longer be a tight fit in the crankcase half.

Check that the interference fit between the crankcase and the installed bearings (4) and (23) is not less than
0.03 mm, otherwise the crankcase halves must be renewed.

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 Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves

Important
After installing new main bearings, shim the crankshaft as described in the paragraph “Shimming the shafts” and
“Reassembly of the crankcase halves” in this section.

Reassembly of the crankcase halves

The crankcase halves must be in good condition and perfectly clean. The mating surfaces must be perfectly flat and
free from burrs.

Refitting the clutch-side crankcase half

The following parts must be present on the internal side of the crankcase half:
the output shaft end bearing (15): apply grease to the bearing rollers. Fit the inner race (A) removed previously
-
from the bearing. Apply grease to the inner race;
the input shaft bearing (14), secured with bolts (18) and retaining spacer (17): apply the recommended
-
threadlocker to the bolts (18) and tighten them to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings);
- the roller bearing (21) with retaining circlip (6) at the timing belt driveshaft.

Refitting the alternator-side crankcase half

The following parts must be present on the internal side of the crankcase half:
- the double race ball bearing (10) supporting the selector fork shaft.
Apply threadlocker to the bolts (8). Fit the retaining plate (9) to the gearbox output shaft bearing (10) screwing the
bolts (8) fully into the chain-side crankcase half.

Notes
The bearing retaining plate must be positioned so that the countersunk side is facing upwards.

Tighten the bolts (8) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).
The gearbox input shaft end bearing (12) with the inner spacer (13): apply grease to the bearing rollers.
Fit the inner race (B) removed previously from the bearing. Apply grease to the inner race.
The main bearing (4).
The ball bearing (7) with circlip (6), in correspondence with the timing belt driveshaft, oriented so that the closed side
of the plastic roller cage faces the crankcase half.

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 Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves

Notes
None of the bearings except the main bearings have an obligatory assembly direction: it is good practice to install the
bearings so that side with the writing is facing upwards.

Shimming the shafts

Before assembling the crankcase halves, calculate the shims required to obtain the correct end float of the crankshaft
and gearbox shafts.
To determine the correct shim thicknesses proceed as follows.

Shimming the crankshaft

After fitting the new main bearings, proceed as follows to determine the total shim thickness “SA”:
Measure the distance “LA” between the bearing contact surfaces on the crankshaft;
measure the depths “LA1” and “LA2” corresponding to the distance between contact surface of the crankcase half and
the contact surface of the inner race of the bearings.
Add a preload of 0.30 mm to help seat the axial load crankshaft bearings correctly, then insert the inner race in the
outer race.
This gives:
SA=LA1+LA2+0.30-LA.
To calculate the thickness of each shim note that:
SA=SA1+SA2
where “SA1” and “SA2” represent the shims for the clutch-side crankcase half 1 and the alternator-side crankcase
half 2.
Considering the alignment of the shaft, this gives:
SA1=LA1+0.15-LA/2;
and finally, the second shim thickness: SA2=SA-SA1.

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 Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves

Practical method for calculating crankshaft shims

In addition to the above procedure, the following is a practical shimming method, providing a guide on how to
calculate the crankshaft shim thicknesses accurately.
Install a shim (A) of minimum thickness (1.90 mm) on each side of the crankshaft to prevent contact between the
crankshaft web and the engine block.
Install the crankshaft and assemble the two crankcase halves.
Fit four M8 bolts into the holes shown in the figure and tighten to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque
settings).

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 Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves

Place a dial gauge (B) with magnetic stand on a support plate fixed to the crankcase.
Bring the stylus into contact with the end of the crankshaft and set the dial gauge to zero in this position.

Insert a lever (C) between the crankcase and the crank web and force the crankshaft towards the dial gauge.

Note the dial gauge reading. This is the crankshaft endfloat. Add a preload of (0.30 mm) plus the thickness of the
shims used (1.90x2=3.8 mm).
Divide the resulting value by two to obtain the thickness of the shim packs to be installed at either end of the
crankshaft.

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 Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves

Notes
After assembling the crankcase, the crankshaft should turn with some interference in the new bearings.

Shimming the gearbox shafts

The following shim thicknesses are available as replacement parts:

Position Clutch side (mm) Chain side (mm)

Gearbox input shaft 1.2 1.6
Gearbox output shaft 3.15 0.8

Shimming the gearbox selector drum

The following shim thicknesses are available as replacement parts:

Position Clutch side (mm) Chain side (mm)

Gear selector drum 1.0 0.9

Reassembly of the crankcase halves

If removed, apply the recommended threadlocker to the grub screw (24) and tighten it to the specified torque
(Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Install the timing belt driveshaft (2) in the roller bearing (21) in the clutch-side crankcase half.
To avoid damaging the oil seal (20) on the timing belt driveshaft, protect the threaded end of the shaft with the
special protective cap 88700.5749. Dampen the oil seal (20) with alcohol and fit it on the timing belt driveshaft,
seating it against the roller bearing (21).
Fit the circlip (1) in the groove on the shaft and remove the protective cap.

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 Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves

Notes
When refitting used components, before installing the gearbox assembly in the crankcase half, make sure that the
inner races (A) of the gearbox shaft bearings are fitted into the correct bearings and have not been left on the shafts.

Mesh the gearbox shafts and install them on the clutch-side crankcase half with the calculated shims.

Install the selector forks of the 1st-4th and 2nd-3rd gears (B) in their respective grooves in the output shaft driven
gears.

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 Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves

Notes
The two selector forks are identical.
Install the 5th-6th gear selector fork (C) in the input shaft driven gear.

Install the selector drum (D) in the crankcase with the previously calculated shim thickness.

Fit the pins (E) in the previously installed selector forks.

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 Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves

Fit the shimmed crankshaft into the clutch-side crankcase half, positioning the connecting rods (E) in correspondence
with the relative cylinder barrel seats.
Check that the two locating bushes (19) are correctly installed.
Grease O-ring (5) to hold it in position and install it on the oil way connecting the two crankcase halves.

Important
Make sure that the connecting rods (E) are correctly positioned in the respective cylinder seats. Incorrect positioning
of the connecting rods at this stage will inevitably lead to the need to re-open the crankcase.

Apply a uniform and continuous bead of DUCATI liquid gasket to the mating surfaces of the crankcase halves, going
around all the holes as shown in the figure.

Bring the crankcase halves (3) and (16) together, tapping with a rubber mallet in the area of the shafts if necessary.

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 Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves

Prepare the crankcase bolts, and insert them in the alternator-side crankcase half (3); note that the bolts are of
different lengths.

Ref. Qty Description

22 7 M8x75 mm bolts
26 7 M6x35 mm bolts
25 2 M6x75 mm bolts
Progressively tighten the crankcase bolts until fully seated, starting with the bolts of the largest diameter (M8).
Insert two M8 bolts (22) in the clutch-side crankcase (16).
Tighten all the bolts to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

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 Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves

Check that the crankshaft can be turned with a certain amount of interference with the main bearings (the crankshaft
should have a pre-load of 0.15 to 0.20 mm); check also that all the parts fitted are free to rotate or move correctly.
Install the oil seal (11) on the gearbox output shaft using the specific tool (T).

Operation Section reference

Refit the gauze pickup filter D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge
Refit the cylinder barrel/piston N 5, Refitting the cylinder/piston
assemblies assembly
Refit the cylinder head assemblies N 4.4, Refitting the cylinder head
assembly
Refit the timing belts N 4.2, Refitting the timing system
assembly
Refit the timing covers N 4.2, Refitting the timing belt covers
Refit the starter motor P 3, Refitting the starter motor
Refit the starter idler gear N 9.1, Refitting the starter motor idler
gear

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 Crankcase assembly: crankcase halves

Refit the flywheel/alternator N 8, Refitting the flywheel-alternator

assembly assembly
Refit the alternator-side crankcase N 8, Refitting the alternator-side
cover crankcase cover
Refit the primary gear N 6.3, Refitting the primary drive
gears and checking backlash
Refit the oil pump N 2.1, Refitting the oil pump
Refit the clutch assembly N 6.1, Refitting the APTC clutch
Refit the clutch-side crankcase cover N 6.2, Refitting the clutch-side
crankcase cover
Refit the engine to the frame N 1, Refitting the engine

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 Crankcase assembly: crankshaft/connecting rods assembly

9.3 - Crankcase assembly: crankshaft/connecting rods assembly

1 Crankshaft
2 Drilled screw
3 Plug
4 Grub screw
5 Connecting rod assembly
6 Bush
7 Half bearing
8 Special bolt
9 Shim
10 Key

Parts catalogue

connecting rods

Important
Bold reference numbers in this section identify parts not shown in the figures alongside the text, but which can be
found in the exploded view diagram.

Removal of the crankshaft/connecting rods assembly

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 Crankcase assembly: crankshaft/connecting rods assembly

Operation Section reference

Remove the engine from the N 1, Removal of the engine
frame
Remove the clutch-side crankcase N 6.2, Removal of the clutch-side
cover crankcase cover
Remove the clutch assembly N 6.1, Removal of the APTC clutch
Remove the oil pump N 2.1, Removal of the oil pump
Remove the primary gear N 6.3, Removal of the primary drive gears
Remove the alternator-side N 8, Removal of the alternator-side
crankcase cover crankcase cover
Removal of the flywheel/ N 8, Removal of the flywheel-alternator
alternator assembly assembly
Remove the starter idler gear N 9.1, Removal of the starter motor idler
gear
Remove the starter motor P 3, Removal of the starter motor
Remove the timing belt covers N 4.2, Removal of the timing belt covers
Remove the timing belts N 4.2, Removal of the timing system
assembly
Remove the cylinder head N 4.4, Removal of the cylinder head
assemblies assembly
Remove the cylinder barrel/piston N 5, Removal of the cylinder/piston
assemblies assembly
Remove the gauze pickup filter D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge
Separate the crankcase halves N 9.2, Separation of the crankcase halves

After separating the crankcase halves, withdraw the crankshaft (1) complete with connecting rods (5).

Disassembly of the crankshaft/connecting rods assembly

To disassemble the crankshaft/connecting rods assembly, undo the screws (8) and separate the connecting rod (5)
from the crankshaft (1).

Important
Take care not to mix up components of different con-rods and maintain the original orientation.

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 Crankcase assembly: crankshaft/connecting rods assembly

Overhaul of the connecting rods

Make the following dimensional checks on the connecting rods:
- assembly clearance with gudgeon pin at time of fitting (Sect. C 1.1, Cylinder/Piston).
In case of excessive wear, renew the connecting rod. The small end bushing must be in good condition and firmly
driven into its seat. Check for parallelism error measured at 100 mm from the connecting rod longitudinal axis:
the value must be H-h less than 0.02 mm; otherwise, renew the connecting rod.
The diameter of the big-end must be within the specified tolerance limits (Sect. C 1.1, Cylinder/Piston).
It is preferable to use crankshafts and connecting rods of the same size class.

Renewal of the connecting rod bearings

It is good practice to renew the bearings (7) each time the engine is overhauled.
Replacement bearings are supplied ready for assembly and they must not be reworked with scrapers or emery cloth.

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 Crankcase assembly: crankshaft/connecting rods assembly

Renewal of the small end bushing

To renew the bushing (6) use the tool shown in figure to simultaneously drive out the old bushing and install the new
one (A).

Position the new small-end bushing so that the split is at 90° relative to the upper hole in the small-end.

Drill lubrication holes into the new bushing in correspondence with the existing lubrication holes on the connecting rod
small end.
Now ream out the bushing until the inside diameter (D) is 18.006 to 18.024 mm.

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 Crankcase assembly: crankshaft/connecting rods assembly

Crankshaft overhaul
The main bearing and big-end journals should not be scored or grooved;
the threads, keyways, and slots must be in good condition.
Check for fretting or burrs in the fillet between journal and shoulder.
Fillet radius: 1.5 mm.
With the aid of a micrometer, measure out-of-round and taper of the big-end journals, taking the measurements in
various different directions (Sect. C 1.1, Cylinder/Piston).

Use a dial gauge to measure the alignment of the main journals by setting the crankshaft between two opposing
centres (Sect. C 1.1, Cylinder/Piston).
Unscrew all the plugs (4), (3) and (2) from the crankshaft, heating the crankshaft, if necessary, to remove the
threadlocker applied at the time of assembly.

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 Crankcase assembly: crankshaft/connecting rods assembly

Use a hot air gun capable of reaching 150 °C.

Clean all the oilways using suitable diameter metal brushes and then blow with compressed air to remove any
residues that have accumulated and are restricting the oil flow.

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 Crankcase assembly: crankshaft/connecting rods assembly

Apply DUCATI liquid gasket on the threads of plugs (3), (4) and (2) and then refit the plugs.

Tighten all the plugs to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Big-end bearing shell-journal clearance

To check the assembly clearance between the bearing shells and crankshaft journals you need to lay a strip (A) of
“GREEN Plastigauge PG-1” on the journal.
Fit the connecting rod with the original big-end bearing shells (7) (see procedure on next page) and tighten the bolts
(8) to a torque of 49 Nm.
Remove the connecting rod and compare the width of the Plastigage strip to the scale (B).
If the width, which corresponds to the existing clearance, is not within the specified tolerance limits (big-end bearing
shell-journal clearance indicated in Sect. C 1.1, Cylinder/Piston), it will be necessary to renew either the bearing
shells or the crankshaft.

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 Crankcase assembly: crankshaft/connecting rods assembly

Reassembly of the connecting rods

Before starting, check that the crankshaft main bearing journals and big-end journals are free of burrs or evident
signs of machining: if necessary, clean the surfaces with very fine emery cloth and oil.
Check that the grooves are in perfect condition with no signs of forcing.
Check that each connecting rod and cap are equipped with their locating pins (A).

Wash the pins and dry them with compressed air.

Clean and lubricate the journals and con-rod bearing shells with engine oil and fit the con-rods in their original
mounting positions.
Fit the caps to the corresponding connecting rods. Make sure that the mark on the cap is the on the same side as the
mark on the connecting rod.

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 Crankcase assembly: crankshaft/connecting rods assembly

Use the recommended grease to lubricate the threads and underside of the heads of the new bolts (8) and the
threaded hole in the connecting rod, packing in grease from both sides of the hole.

Warning
The grease utilised is an irritant in contact with the skin. Wear protective gloves.

Important
Lubrication of big-end cap bolts is essential to obtain the correct coupling and to prevent breakage of the parts.
The connecting rod screws may be used and tightened once only, after which they must be discarded.

Temporarily fit the gudgeon pin (L) to align the connecting rods, and then tighten the screws.

Fit the spacer (H) of the tool 88713.2878 between the connecting rods and take up residual axial play with the fork
feeler gauge (I) of the tool 88713.2878 which is available in the following thicknesses:
0.1 mm - 0.2 mm - 0.3 mm.

Tighten the screws (8) in three stages to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings), using a torque
wrench. Hold the wrench as shown in the photo.
Withdraw the feeler gauge and check that the connecting rod/crankshaft endfloat is: 0.15 to 0.35 mm.

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 Crankcase assembly: crankshaft/connecting rods assembly

Refitting the crankshaft/connecting rod assembly

Install the connecting rod/crankshaft assembly in the crankcase and follow the shimming procedure as described in
Sect. N 9.2, Shimming the shafts.

Important
Make sure that the connecting rods (5) are correctly positioned in the respective cylinder seats. Incorrect positioning
of the connecting rods at this stage will inevitably lead to the need to re-open the crankcase.

Operation Section reference

Reassemble the engine crankcase N 9.2, Reassembly of the crankcase
halves halves
Refit the gauze pickup filter D 4, Changing the engine oil and filter
cartridge
Refit the cylinder barrel/piston N 5, Refitting the cylinder/piston assembly
assemblies
Refit the cylinder head assemblies N 4.4, Refitting the cylinder head
assembly
Refit the timing belts N 4.2, Refitting the timing system
assembly
Refit the timing covers N 4.2, Refitting the timing belt covers
Refit the starter motor P 3, Refitting the starter motor
Refit the starter idler gear N 9.1, Refitting the starter motor idler
gear
Refit the flywheel/alternator N 8, Refitting the flywheel-alternator
assembly assembly

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 Crankcase assembly: crankshaft/connecting rods assembly

Refit the alternator-side N 8, Refitting the alternator-side

crankcase cover crankcase cover
Refit the primary gear N 6.3, Refitting the primary drive gears
and checking backlash
Refit the oil pump N 2.1, Refitting the oil pump
Refit the clutch assembly N 6.1, Refitting the APTC clutch
Refit the clutch-side crankcase N 6.2, Refitting the clutch-side crankcase
cover cover
Refit the engine to the frame N 1, Refitting the engine

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 P - Impianto elettrico

0P - Impianto elettrico
1 - Wiring diagram 4
Key to wiring diagram 5
Wiring colour codes 6
Key to fuse box 6
Routing of wiring on frame 7
Plate A 9
Plate B 10
Plate C 13
Plate D 15
Plate E 16
Plate F 18
Plate G 19
Plate H 20
Plate L 22
Plate N 23
Plate O 25
Plate P 28
Plate Q 30
Plate R 31
Plate S 33
Plate T 35
Plate U 36
Plate V 37
Plate W 39
Plate X 41
Plate Y 43

2 - Battery charging system 44

Checking the battery charging system 44
Recharging the battery 45
Topping up the electrolyte 46
Battery 50
Alternator 52
Regulator/rectifier 55

3 - Electric starting system 58

Electric starting system 58
Starter motor 59
Starter contactor 62

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 P - Impianto elettrico

4 - Lights and indicating devices 65

Removal of the instrument panel 65
Changing bulbs 66
Headlight aim 69

5 - Indicating devices 71
Checking the indicating devices 71
Changing bulbs 78

6 - Protection and safety devices 79

Checking protection and safety device components 79
Checking the fuses 81

7 - Instruments 82
Instrument panel 82
Instrument panel system 83
Display settings and functions 85

8 - Immobilizer and transponder 118

9 - Diagnostic instruments 123
Using a multimeter to check the electrical systems 123

10 - USB Data Acquisition kit 125

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 USB Data Acquisition kit

10 -USB Data Acquisition kit

A USB data acquisition kit (1) is supplied. To use the kit, remove the seat (Sect. E 3, Removal of
the seat), locate the DDA in the clip (4) of the plate (5) fixed to the fuel tank; fit the cap (2) and
connect the wiring connector (3) to the main wiring loom. Refer to the instrument panel functions
(Sect. P 7, DDA data acquisition).

Warning
Each time the data acquisition kit disconnected, remember to replace the cap on the relative
connector.

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USB Data Acquisition kit

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 Wiring diagram

1 - Wiring diagram
WIRING DIAGRAM

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 Wiring diagram

Key to wiring diagram

1 Right-hand handlebar switch
2 Immobilizer antenna
3 Key switch
4 Fusebox
5 Data acquisition/Diagnostics
6 Starter motor
7 Starter contactor with MASTER fuse
8 Battery
9 Engine earth/Electrical system earth
10 Regulator
11 Alternator
12 Tail light
13 Rear right turn signal
14 Number plate light
15 Rear left turn signal
16 Fuel tank
17 Injection relay
18 Speed sensor
19 Sidestand switch
20 Air temperature sensor
21 MAP pressure sensor
22 Vertical lamba sensor
23 Horizontal lambda sensor
24 Horizontal cylinder coil
25 Horizontal cylinder spark plug - RH
26 Vertical cylinder coil
27 Vertical cylinder spark plug - RH
28 Horizontal cylinder injector
29 Vertical cylinder injector
30 Throttle position sensor
31 Rpm/timing sensor
32 ECU oil temperature sensor
33 Stepper motor
34 Neutral switch
35 Oil pressure switch
36 Rear brake light switch
37 Front brake light switch
38 Clutch switch
39 Left-hand handlebar switch
40 Exhaust valve motor (not present on the HYM 796)
41 Instrumentation (instrument panel)
42 Front left turn signal
43 Horn
44 Headlight
45 Front right turn signal
46 ECU

Wiring colour codes

B Blue
W White
V Violet
Bk Black
Y Yellow
R Red
Lb Light blue

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 Wiring diagram

Gr Grey
G Green
Bn Brown
O Orange
P Pink

Key to fuse box

Position Item Rating

1 Key on, starter contactor, lambda, eng. stop 10 A
2 Lights 15 A
3 Loads 15 A
4 Injection 20 A
5 ECU 5A
6 Instrument panel 5A
7 DDA and battery charging 5A
8 Spare 20 A
9 Spare 20 A
10 Spare 15 A

For fuse checking procedure, see Section P 6, Checking the fuses.

Routing of wiring on frame

The routing of the wiring has been optimised to ensure the minimum obstruction.
Each section is designed to prevent interference with parts that might damage wires or cause operating failures when
riding. The plates on the following pages show the origins (“0” points) for correct re-routing of wiring and the locations
of cable ties.
Each figure includes references to the plates showing the wiring routing or the item to which it must be connected.

Position Description
1 Plate A Main wiring branch
2 Plate B Injection relay
3 Plate B ECU connector
4 Plate H Front left turn signal connector
5 Plate B Fusebox
7 Plate H - Plate L Front right turn signal connector
8 Plate C Pick-up connector
9 Plate C Horizontal cylinder injector connector
10 Plate C Air temperature sensor

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Wiring diagram

11 Plate C Pressure sensor lead (MAP)

12 Plate D Pick-Up
13 Plate E Regulator/alternator connector
14 Plate E Voltage regulator
15 Plate E Alternator cable
16 Plate F Horn connector
17 Plate F Horizontal cylinder coil connector
18 Plate G Keyswitch connector
19 Plate G Key-switch
20 Plate G Immobilizer antenna connector
21 Plate G Immobilizer antenna wire
22 Plate H Left-hand handlebar switch
23 Plate H Left-hand handlebar switch connector
24 Plate H Clutch wire
25 Plate H Clutch connector
26 Plate H - Plate L Right-hand handlebar switch
27 Plate H - Plate L Right-hand handlebar switch connector
28 Plate H - Plate L Front brake light wire
29 Plate H Front brake light connector
30 Plate S Engine temperature sensor connector
31 Plate N Instrument panel connector
32 Plate O Speed sensor connector
33 Plate O Oil pressure switch
34 Plate O Rear brake light connector
35 Plate O Rear brake light sensor
36 Plate N Left front side light
37 Plate N Right front sidelight
38 Plate N Headlight connector
39 Plate R Vertical cylinder injector connector
40 Plate R Stepper motor connector
41 Plate R Negative terminal
42 Plate R Potentiometer connector
43 Plate R - Plate T Sidestand connector
44 Plate T Sidestand wire
45 Plate Q Vertical cylinder coil connector
46 Plate O Neutral indicator light wire
47 Plate V - Plate W Vertical cyl. lambda sensor connector
48 Plate O - Plate P Speed sensor
49 Plate V - Plate W Fuel tank flange connector
50 Plate V Starter contactor connector
51 Plate V Rear left turn signal connector
52 Plate V Right rear turn signal connector

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Wiring diagram

53 Plate V Nymber plate light connector

54 Plate V Exhaust valve actuator connector (exhaust valve not present)
55 Plate V DDA connector
56 Plate V - Plate X Tail light connector
57 Plate R - Plate V - Plate Y Negative battery lead
58 Plate T - Plate V - Plate Y Starter motor/contactor cable
59 Plate O Horizontal cylinder lambda sensor connector
60 Plate O - Plate P Horizontal lambda sensor
61 Plate S Engine temperature sensor
62 Plate V Contactor/Battery positive

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Plate A

Plate A

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Plate A

Plate B

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Plate A

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Plate A

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Plate A

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Plate A

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Plate A

Plate C

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Plate A

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Plate A

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Plate A

Plate D

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Plate A

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Plate A

Plate E

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Plate A

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Plate A

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Plate A

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Plate A

Plate F

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Plate A

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Plate A

Plate G

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Plate A

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Plate A

Plate H

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Plate A

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Plate A

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Plate A

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Plate A

Plate L

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Plate A

Plate N

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Plate A

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Plate A

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Plate A

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Plate A

Plate O

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Plate A

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Plate A

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Plate A

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Plate A

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Plate A

Plate P

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Plate A

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Plate A

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Plate A

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Plate A

Plate Q

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Plate A

Plate R

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Plate A

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Plate A

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Plate A

Plate S

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Plate A

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Plate A

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Plate A

Plate T

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Plate A

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Plate A

Plate U

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Plate A

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Plate A

Plate V

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Plate A

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Plate A

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Plate A

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Plate A

Plate W

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Plate A

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Plate A

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Plate A

Plate X

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Plate A

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Plate A

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Plate A

Plate Y

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Plate A

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Plate A

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 Battery charging system

2 - Battery charging system

Checking the battery charging system
To check the current flow in the charging circuit, use the “DDS” tester, which is equipped with an inductive
clamp-type ammeter:
refer to “Testing the battery charging system”, Sect. D 5. With the “DDS” tester you can determine the engine
rpm required for the alternator to produce sufficient current to charge the battery, feed the fuel injection/
ignition system and all the electrical equipment on the motorcycle. When applied to a cable, the ammeter
clamp detects the magnetic field generated by the current passing through that cable. The tester performs an
automatic calibration routine using its own transducer.
If the measured current is a positive quantity, this means that alternator is powering all the electrical loads and
charging battery at the same time. A negative value means that charging system is not powering the loads and
a significant amount of current must be supplied by the battery, which is discharging at the time of the
measurement.
Alternatively, a multimeter can be used (Sect. P 9, Diagnostic instruments); connect the multimeter probes to
the battery terminals, select the DC scale on the multimeter and check for the presence of 14.5 V±0.5 at an
engine speed of 3000 rpm.

Important
If polarity is reversed when clamping the ammeter onto the cable, the sign of the readings will also be
reversed, giving rise to incorrect diagnosis.

Recharging the battery

Examine the label on the battery showing the check intervals in order to determine when to test the voltage.

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 Battery charging system

Charge the battery if the open circuit voltage is lower than 12.8 V. Leaving the battery discharged for more
than one month could damage it. Check the battery charge with a voltmeter.
Always check the condition of the battery before recharging and 1 to 2 hours afterwards.

Important
Pay careful attention to recharging times. Stop charging immediately if the battery becomes too hot to the
touch. Leave to cool before resuming charging.

Use only constant-voltage battery chargers.

Check that battery terminals are properly connected to the battery charger.
To charge the battery, proceed as follows:

Use fast charging in emergencies only.

Type of charging Volt Ampere (A) Time (Hours)

Normal 12 1.8 5-10
Fast 12 9 1

Storing the battery

If the battery voltage is less than or equal to 11.5 V, it must be recharged.
Connect the battery charger to the battery.
Use a voltage of 16-17 V.
If the ammeter shows no change, increase the voltage to the maximum of 25 V.
Charge for 5 minutes.
If the ammeter shows a change, return the voltage to 16-17 V; otherwise replace the battery.

Topping up the electrolyte

Remove the battery from the motorcycle.

Warning
Read carefully the relevant safety rules before working on the battery (Sect. A 3, General safety rules).
The electrolyte in the battery is toxic and can cause burns if it comes into contact with the skin because it
contains sulphuric acid.
Wear protective clothing, a face-mask and goggles when adding electrolyte.
If the liquid comes into contact with the skin, wash thoroughly with cold water. If it comes into contact with the
eyes, wash thoroughly with water for 15 minutes and consult an ophthalmologist. In the event of accidental
ingestion, drink large quantities of water or milk, and continue with milk of magnesia, beaten egg or vegetable
oil. Do not allow sparks, flames, cigarettes or any other heat source to come near the battery, as it produces
explosive gases.
When recharging or using the battery indoors, make sure that the room is adequately ventilated. Do not inhale
the gases produced during recharging.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.

Place the battery on a flat surface. Remove the protective film (1).

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 Battery charging system

Warning
Make certain that the electrolyte is of the specific type for your battery.

Remove the container with the electrolyte from the plastic bag. Remove the cap strip (3) from the container
(2).

Important
Keep the cap strip (3) to hand because it will be used later as plugs for the battery cells.

Warning
Do not peel or perforate the sealed areas.

Place the electrolyte container (2) upside down. Align the six sealed elements with the six filler holes on the
battery.
Push the container (2) downwards with sufficient force to break the seals and allow the liquid to flow out.

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 Battery charging system

Notes
Do not tilt the electrolyte container as this could interrupt the flow temporarily or even permanently.
Make certain that air bubbles emerge from all six filler holes. Leave the container in this position for at least
twenty minutes.
If no bubbles emerge from one of the holes, tap gently on the bottom of the respective container.

Important
Never move the container away from the battery. Do not cut or puncture the liquid container.

Make sure that all the electrolyte has flowed out. Gently tap the bottom of the reservoir (2) to encourage
complete discharge of the liquid. Carefully extract the container (2) from the battery.
Place the cap strip (3) previously removed from the electrolyte container (2) on the battery, making sure that
the strip closes all the electrolyte filler holes correctly.

For 3-12 Ah batteries, leave to stand for at least 30 mins.

For batteries of over 12 Ah, leave to stand for at least 1 hour.

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 Battery charging system

Rest the cap strip on the filler holes without fixing it. Recharge the battery as described in the paragraph
“Recharging the battery”.

Notes
If using an automatic charge reducing battery charger, make certain that the charger current (amps) is
greater than or equal to the standard (STD) recharging system indicated on the battery.

Press firmly downwards with both hands until the caps are firmly in place (do not use a hammer).

Battery

Safety rules

Warning
Read carefully the relevant safety rules before working on the battery (Sect. A 3, General safety rules). When
under charge, batteries produce explosive gases. Keep batteries away from heat sources, sparks or open
flames.

Instructions for use

The battery is a sealed, maintenance-free type and therefore requires no servicing installation.

Notes
Always keep the battery clean. Apply grease around the battery terminal clamps to prevent corrosion.

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 Battery charging system

Warning
Never remove the valve cover on the top of the battery or add more liquid to the battery. If the block, cover or
terminals are broken or if the valve cover has been tampered with it is essential to change the battery.

Important
If the motorcycle is left unused for more than 30 days, remove the battery and store it in a safe, cool place.

Always charge the battery before the first use and after long storage periods - such as before selling the
vehicle.

Removal of the battery

Notes
References (48) and (44) are the same as those indicated in the plates in the chapter “Routing of wiring on
frame”, Sect. P 1.

Remove the seat (Sect. E 3, Removal of the seat).

Unhook the rubber retaining strap (A) and remove the terminal covers (B).
Unscrew the bolts on the terminal clamps (48) and (44). Always start with the negative terminal.

Refitting the battery

Install the battery on the support on the fuel tank.
Check that the contacts are not oxidised and tighten the terminal clamp bolts (48) and (44) to the specified
torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings); apply a water repellent spray.

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 Battery charging system

Replace the terminal covers (B) and reattach the rubber retaining strap (A).

Refit the seat (Sect. E 3, Refitting the seat).

Alternator
The motorcycle is equipped with a 12 V, 520 W alternator, consisting of a stator (A) located in the left-hand
side crankcase cover and a rotor (B) fixed to the crankshaft.

Notes
To check the charging system for faults, use the DDS tester and follow the instructions given under the
heading “Checking the charging system current”, Sect. D 5.
The absolute value of voltage measured across the terminals of two of the three yellow cables (measured value
will be the same whichever the combination) must be within the range indicated in the table below.
(Ambient temperature: 20 °C)

Important
Before testing, disconnect the alternator wiring from the electrical system when the ignition key is set to OFF.

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 Battery charging system

Engine rpm 2000 6000

effective V 27±10 78±10

Values significantly lower than those indicated above can be due to:
- partially demagnetised rotor;
- short-circuited windings.

In the above cases the whole alternator assembly (rotor and stator) should be renewed.
If checks have a favourable outcome, reconnect the alternator to the regulator with ignition key on OFF. Make
sure that no cables are damaged or disconnected.

Removal of the alternator

Operation Section reference

Drain the engine oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge
Remove the gearchange control F 5, Removal of the gearchange
control
Remove the clutch slave cylinder F 2, Removal of the clutch slave
cylinder
Remove the LH footrest H 4, Removal of the footrest brackets
Remove the front sprocket cover G 8, Removal of the front sprocket
Disconnect the electrical wiring on P 1, Routing of wiring on frame
the alternator side

Remove the alternator-side crankcase cover, the stator (A) and rotor (B) (Sect. N 8, Removal of the alternator-
side crankcase cover).

Refitting the alternator

Fit the rotor (B), the stator (A) and the alternator-side crankcase cover.

Operation Section reference

Reconnect the electrical wiring on the P 1, Routing of wiring on frame
alternator side
Refit the sprocket cover G 8, Refitting the front sprocket
Refit the LH footrest H 4, Refitting the footrest brackets
Refit the clutch slave cylinder F 2, Refitting the clutch slave cylinder
Refit the gearchange control F 5, Refitting the gearchange control

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 Battery charging system

Refill the engine with oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge

Regulator/rectifier
The regulator (1) is fixed to the motorcycle frame.
The rectifier/regulator consists of an aluminium casing containing the diodes that rectify the current produced
by the alternator. It also contains an electronic device that regulates the current supplied by the alternator in
accordance with battery voltage. If the battery is drained, the current has the value necessary to restore
optimum operating conditions of the battery. In contrast, if the battery is fully charged, the current value will
be lower.

Notes
Check the charging current using the DDS tester, following the instructions given in the paragraph “Testing the
battery charging system” (Sect. D 5).

Removal of the regulator

Disconnect the main wiring loom connector (B) (see plates in the chapter “Routing of wiring on frame”,
Sect. P 1).
Unscrew the bolts (2) securing the regulator to the frame: recover the horn (3), which is secured by one of the
two bolts (2) and the spacers (4).

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 Battery charging system

Important
Do not disconnect the battery cables when engine is running because this would cause irreparable damage to
the regulator.

Refitting the regulator

Locate the regulator (1) with the horn (3) and the spacers (4) on the frame and secure with the bolts (2).
Tighten the bolts (2) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Connect the regulatorr to the main wiring loom (Sect. P 1, Routing of wiring on frame).

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 Battery charging system

Regulator fuse
The 30 A fuse located on the fuel tank protects the electronic regulator. To gain access to the fuse, remove the
seat (Sect. E 3, Removal of the seat) and disconnect the contactor connector (A).

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 Battery charging system

A blown fuse can be identified by breakage of the inner filament (B).

Important
Switch the ignition key to OFF before replacing a fuse to avoid possible short circuits.

Warning
Never use a fuse with a rating other than the specified value. Failure to observe this rule may damage the
electric system or even cause fire.

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 Electric starting system

3 - Electric starting system

Notes
The references of the elements shown below are to be found in the “Wiring diagram”, Section P 1.

Electric starting system

The key components of the electric starting system are a contactor (1) and a starter motor (2) fed
by the battery (3).
The engine starting strategy is managed entirely by the engine ECU (4), which monitors the
following inputs:
- Engine Stop button (5)
- Engine start button (6)
- Neutral sensor (7)
- Sidestand sensor (8)
- Clutch microswitch (9).

When these inputs are combined in the required manner, the engine control unit (4) enables engine
starting.
The table lists possible engine starting combinations.

In accordance with the status of specific engine control unit inputs and the indications given in the
table, the control unit enables operation of the starter motor (ON status) when the START button is
pressed.
X = generic status of neutral sensor, clutch, and sidestand.

Safety device functions table

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 Electric starting system

Starter motor
Power: 0.7 kW/12 V.
Direction of rotation: counterclockwise viewed from power take-off side.

The starter motor is highly compact and reliable and therefore rarely gives any type of problem. In
case of malfunction, ensure that the starter motor wiring terminal is properly tightened under the
nut and shows no sign of corrosion. If the terminal is properly tightened and free from corrosion,

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 Electric starting system

remove the starter motor and test it under no-load conditions (no load applied to the shaft). Secure
the starter motor to a test bench, making sure you do not damage the casing. Use a fully charged
12 V battery for the test. Use battery-motor connection cables which are no longer than 70 cm and
with the same cross-section as the cable on the motorcycle itself. Connect the negative terminal of
the battery to an unpainted area of the starter motor casing and the positive terminal to its
electrical terminal. The shaft of the starter motor should rotate freely and at high speed. Take care
not to short-circuit the two cables connected to the battery.

Removal of the starter motor

Operation Section reference

Drain the engine oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge
Remove the gearchange control F 5, Removal of the gearchange
control
Remove the clutch slave cylinder F 2, Removal of the clutch slave
cylinder
Remove the LH footrest H 4, Removal of the footrest brackets
Remove the front sprocket cover G 8, Removal of the front sprocket
Remove the alternator-side crankcase N 8, Removal of the alternator-side
cover crankcase cover
Remove the timing gears and the N 9.1, Removal of the starter motor
starter idler gear idler gear

Disconnect the starter motor/starter contactor cable (3) (see plates in the chapter “Routing of
wiring on frame”, Section P 1).

Unscrew the retaining bolts (1).

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 Electric starting system

Notes
The starter motor retaining bolts are assembled with threadlocker.

Slide out the starter motor and gasket (2).

Refitting the starter motor

Inspect the condition of the gasket (2) and renew if necessary. Locate the gasket (2) and the
starter motor on the crankcase and tighten the bolts (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine
torque settings.

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 Electric starting system

Connect the starter motor/contactor cable (3).

Important
Fill the cap with protective grease before fitting it on the starter motor

Operation Section reference

Refit the timing gears and the starter N 9.1, Refitting the starter motor
idler gear idler gear
Refit the alternator-side crankcase N 8, Refitting the alternator-side
cover crankcase cover
Refit the sprocket cover G 8, Refitting the front sprocket
Refit the LH footrest H 4, Refitting the footrest brackets
Refit the clutch slave cylinder F 2, Refitting the clutch slave cylinder
Refit the gearchange control F 5, Refitting the gearchange control
Fill the engine with oil D 4, Changing the engine oil and
filter cartridge

Starter contactor

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 Electric starting system

Operation Section reference

Remove the seat E 3, Removal of the seat

The contactor (1) is fixed to the fuel tank.

Disconnect the battery (Sect. P 2, Battery).
Disconnect the wiring connector (2) of the starter contactor from the wiring harness.
Remove the protective caps (A).

If necessary, remove the contactor from its seating.

Unscrew the nuts (3), taking care to recover the spring washers (4).
Remove the starter motor-contactor cable (5).
Remove the contactor-battery cable (6).

Checking operation of the starter contactor

Apply 12 V (battery voltage) across the positive terminal (A) and negative terminal (B) of the
connector.

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With a multimeter connected between the two terminals (threaded studs (+) and (-)) of the
contactor, check for electrical continuity (Sect. P 9, Diagnostic instruments). If there is no electrical
continuity, renew the contactor.
Connect the wires (5) e (6) to the contactor terminals.

On refitting, ensure that terminals (+) and (-) are not oxidized; apply water repellent spray.
Tighten the nuts (3) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Engine torque settings).

Reconnect the wiring connector (2) to the wiring loom (Sect. P 1, Routing of wiring on frame).
Refit the cover.

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Insert the contactor in its seat on the fuel tank: the contactor must be inserted fully home, i.e. until
the four retaining teeth of the support bracket protrude on the contactor side.

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 Lights and indicating devices

4 - Lights and indicating devices

Removal of the instrument panel
To remove the instrument panel (1), remove the movable headlight fairing (Sect. E 1, Removal of
the headlight fairing).

Unscrew the nuts (2), recovering the spacer (3).

Disconnect the connector (4) from the wiring.

Refitting is the reverse of removal; tighten nuts (2) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque
settings).

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 Lights and indicating devices

Changing bulbs

Changing the headlight bulbs

Operation Section reference

Remove the headlight fairing E 1, Removal of the headlight fairing

Before replacing a burnt out light bulb, ensure that the replacement bulb has the same voltage and
power rating as specified for the lighting device in question (Sect. C 1.1, Lights/instrument panel).

Warning
The halogen light bulbs in the headlight become hot when switched on and remain hot for some
time after they are switched off.
Allow bulbs to cool before replacing them.

The position of the light bulbs in the headlight is as indicated below: low beam (LO), high beam (HI)
and side light (A).

Low beam (LO)/High beam (HI)

To acces the the headlight bulbs, undo the screws (1) with a hex socket wrench.

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Withdraw the headlight support towards the front of the motorcycle sufficiently to release the knob
(2).
Unscrew the knob (2) in anti-clockwise direction.

Unhook the spring (3).

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 Lights and indicating devices

The bulb (4) is of the bayonet-type: press and twist anti-clockwise to remove. Push in the new bulb
and turn it clockwise until it clicks into place.

Side lights (A)

Remove the side light bulb (5) from its holder and fit a new one of the same type.

Refitting the bulbs

After changing the bulbs, reconnect the wiring connectors to the light terminals.

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Reposition knob (2) of the headlight in its seating, and secure it to the headlight screwing it in
clockwise.

Reposition the headlight support on the motorcycle and refit the bolts (1) to the frame.

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 Lights and indicating devices

Operation Section reference

Refit the headlight fairing E 1, Refitting the headlight fairing

Changing the number plate light bulb

Pull out the rubber sleeve (11) and remove the bulb.

Headlight aim
The motorcycle must be perfectly upright with the tires inflated to the correct pressure and with a
rider seated, perfectly perpendicular to the longitudinal axis.
Position the motorcycle 10 metres from a wall or a screen.
On the wall or surface, draw a horizontal line at the same height from the ground as the centre of
the headlight and a vertical line aligned with the longitudinal axis of the motorcycle.

Notes
If possible, perform this check in conditions of low ambient light.

Switch on the low beam. The height of the upper limit between the dark area and the lit area must
not be more than nine tenths of the height of the centre of the headlight from the ground.

Notes
This is the procedure specified by Italian regulations for checking the maximum height of the light

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 Lights and indicating devices

beam.

Unscrew the bolts (A) with a hex socket wrench and withdraw the headlight support towards the
front of the motorcycle to access the headlight aim adjuster screws.

The vertical alignment of the headlamp can be adjusted manually by turning screw (1).
The horizontal alignment of the headlight can be adjusted manually by turning screw (2).

Important
Screws (1) and (2) have no travel limit.

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Refit all parts removed.

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5 - Indicating devices
Checking the indicating devices
In the event of a fault, the internal connections of the device must be checked in all operating
conditions. To do this, disconnect the switch connector from the main wiring harness (Sect. P 1,
Routing of wiring on frame).
Test the device using either an analogue or digital multimeter (Sect. P 9, Diagnostic instruments).

Notes
The same checks can also be performed using the “DDS” tester (Sect. D 5, DDS tester).

Checking the left-hand handlebar switch

To remove the left-hand handlebar switch, undo the fixing bolts (1) and disconnect it from the
electrical system.

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The colours mentioned in the following descriptions refer to the colours of the wires from the switch
and not to the colours of the wires of the main electrical system.

HORN button
Connect the terminals of a multimeter to the red/blue and and blue/white wires to check for
electrical continuity, which must be present when the HORN is pressed (see Sect. P 9, Diagnostic
instruments, concerning operation of the multimeter). When the horn button is pressed, the
resistance value shown by the multimeter should be close to zero and, if available, a continuity
beep should be heard. When the horn button is not pressed, the resistance value should be infinity
(there is no continuity as the electrical contacts inside the pushbutton are open) and no continuity
beep should be heard. If these conditions are not met, the device must be replaced.

Turn signal switch (TURN)

Connect the multimeter to the grey and red/blue wires from the turn signal switch and check for
electrical continuity when operating the right turn signals (see Sect. P 9, Diagnostic instruments
concerning operation of the multimeter). Repeat the above procedure for the left turn signal, but
connect the multimeter to the black and grey wires. The above colours refer to the colour of wires
from the switch and not to the colour of wires of the main electrical system.

High beam headlight (HI)

The test method is the same; connect the meter to the blue and red/blue wires.

Flasher (PASSING)
Check for continuity across the orange and red/blue wires.

set down pushbutton

Check for continuity across the red/blue and blue/yellow wires.

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set up pushbutton
Check for continuity across the black and red wires.

Refit the left-hand handlebar switch and tighten the bolts (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,
Frame torque settings).

Checking the right-hand handlebar switch

To remove the right-hand handlebar switch, undo the retaining bolts (1) and disconnect the wiring
connector from the electrical system.

The colours mentioned in the following descriptions refer to the colours of the wires from the switch
and not to the colours of the wires of the main electrical system.

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Engine Stop button

Using a multimeter, check for continuity between the Red/Black and Red/White wires (see
Sect. P 9, Diagnostic instruments for information on the operation of the multimeter). When the
button is in RUN position, there should be electrical continuity between the two wires. When the
button is in the OFF position, there should be no electrical continuity between the two wires.
If these conditions are not met, the engine stop switch is not working correctly and must be
renewed. The colours indicated above refer to the colour of wires coming from the switch and not to
the colour of wires of the main electrical system.

STARTER button
Proceed as described for the engine stop button and check for continuity between the blue/white
and black wires when the starter button is pressed (see Sect. P 9, Diagnostic instruments
concerning operation of the multimeter). If there is no continuity, the starter button is faulty and
must be renewed. The colours indicated above refer to the colour of wires coming from the switch
and not to the colour of wires of the main electrical system.

Refit the left-hand handlebar switch and tighten the bolts (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3,
Frame torque settings).

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Checking the front and rear brake light switches, neutral light switch, oil pressure switch and clutch switch
Brake light switches
To check operation of the front (1) and rear (2) brake light switches, use a multimeter to check for
electrical continuity (Pos. A) between the terminals of the corresponding switch when the front or
rear brake is applied (see Sect. P 9, Diagnostic instruments on operation of the multimeter). When
the brake is released, there must be no electrical continuity between the terminals of
the corresponding switch (Pos. B). If these tests fail to produce positive results, the part in question
must be renewed.

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Neutral indicator light

To check the neutral light switch (3) proceed as follows.

The neutral light does not illuminate on the instrument panel.

Remove the electric terminal connected to the neutral switch. Switch on the ignition switch (ignition
key to ON position) and ensure that the light illuminates when the terminal is earthed. If the light
switches on, the neutral light switch should be changed. If the light stays off, switch off the ignition
(ignition key set to OFF) to switch off the instrument panel and check for electrical continuity
between the neutral switch and the engine control unit with a multimeter.

The neutral light on the instrument panel is permanently illuminated.

Switch on the ignition (ignition key set to ON) and remove the electrical terminal from the neutral
switch. If the light switches off, the neutral light switch should be changed. If the light stays off,
switch off the ignition (ignition key set to OFF) and use a multimeter to check that the section of
circuit between neutral switch and engine ECU is not earthed.

Oil pressure sensor

To test the operation of the engine oil pressure sensor (4), proceed as follows.
Use the DDS tester to check that the oil pressure in the engine oil circuit complies with the specified
values (Sect. D 5, Checking the engine oil pressure).

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If the engine oil pressure value is outside the specified range, check the oil circuit components and
service as necessary.
If engine oil pressure value is within the allowed operating range and the “low engine oil pressure”
warning light on the instrument panel stays off, switch on the instrument panel (ignition key set to
ON) without starting the engine, and disconnect the electrical terminal from the pressure sensor
and connect it to earth. If the warning light now illuminates, this means the sensor is defective and
must be replaced. If the indicator light fails to illuminate, use a multimeter and check for electrical
continuity in the section of the circuit between sensor and warning light on the instrument panel
(this check must be performed with the ignition key set to OFF, i.e. with instrument panel off).
If the engine oil pressure is within the specified range and the “engine oil pressure low” warning
light on the instrument panel is continuously illuminated, switch on the instrument panel (ignition
key set to ON) and start the engine, then disconnect the electrical terminal normally inserted on
the pressure sensor. If the warning light now switches off, this means the sensor is defective. If the
warning light fails to switch off use a multimeter and check that the section of the circuit between
sensor and warning light on the instrument panel is not connected to earth (this check must be
performed with the ignition key set to OFF, i.e. instrument panel off).

Clutch switch
For the clutch switch (5), proceed in the same manner as for the brake light switches (see the
beginning of this paragraph).

Changing bulbs

Changing the rear turn signal bulbs

To change the bulbs of the rear turn signals unscrew the bolt (1) and remove the lens (2).

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The bulb (3) is of the bayonet-type: press and twist anti-clockwise to remove. Replace the burned
out bulb with a new one of the same type. Press the bulb in and twist clockwise until it clicks into
place.
Refit the lens (2), tightening fixing bolt (1).

Changing the front turn signal bulbs

The front turn signals (1) are integrated in the hand guard assembly (Sect. E 1, Removal of the
hand guards - rearview mirrors) and in the event of malfunction, the mirror/turn signal assembly
must be renewed as a complete unit.

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6 - Protection and safety devices

Checking protection and safety device components

Checking the key switch

Disconnect the ignition switch (A) from the wiring loom by opening its connector (Sect. P 1, Routing
of wiring on frame) and use a multimeter (Sect. P 9, Diagnostic instruments) to check its internal
connections as follows:

turn the key to OFF and connect a multimeter to contacts (1) and (4) to check electrical continuity
- (Sect. P 9, Diagnostic instruments concerning operation of the multimeter). The resistance reading
should be near zero and, if present, the audible continuity signal should be emitted;
turn the key to ON and connect the multimeter to contacts (3) and (6) and then to (2) and (5) to
- check for electrical continuity. The resistance reading should be near zero and, if present, the
audible continuity signal should be emitted;
turn the key to PARK and connect the multimeter to contacts (1) and (4) and then to (3) and (5)
- to check for electrical continuity. The resistance reading should be near zero and, if present, the
audible continuity signal should be emitted;
turn the key to LOCK and connect the multimeter to contacts (1) and (4) to check for electrical
- continuity. The resistance reading should be near zero and, if present, the audible continuity signal
should be emitted.

Notes

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The same checks can also be performed using the “DDS” tester (Sect. D 5, DDS tester).

Checking the sidestand switch

Remove the switch from the sidestand and disconnect the main wiring loom connector from the
switch (see “Routing of wiring on frame”, Sect. P 1).
Use an analogue or digital multimeter (Sect. P 9, Diagnostic instruments) to check operation of the
switch (see table).

Notes
The same checks can also be performed using the “DDS” tester (Sect. D 5, DDS tester).

Pos. pin (A) Items Rating

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●-▲ 0 X
▲-■ X 0
Multimeter pos. Green/ Green/
Green Yellow
White Black
0 = Open contact
X = Closed contact

Checking the fuses

The main fusebox (1) is located on the right-hand side of the motorcycle and is accessed by
removing the right-hand side fairing (Sect. E 2, Removal of the side fairings).
The fuses are accessed by removing the cover (2), which shows the ampere ratings and fuse
positions.

For ampere ratings, refer to the “Wiring diagram”, Sect. P 1.

Important
Before replacing a damaged fuse with a new one of the same rating, identify the cause of the
problem.

A blown fuse can be identified by the breakage of inner filament (A).

Important
Switch the ignition key to OFF before replacing a fuse to avoid possible short circuits.

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Warning
Never use a fuse with a rating other than the specified value.
Failure to observe this rule may damage the electric system or even cause fire.

As well as the fuses in the fuse box, the motorcycle has a 30 A fuse (2) located alongside the ECU
to protect the electronic regulator (Sect. P 2, Regulator/rectifier).

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7 - Instruments
Instrument panel
For removal of the instrument panel, follow the indicationns given in Section P 4, Removal of the instrument panel.

Notes
The instrument panel is supplied as a single component; its internal components cannot be renewed separately.

Important
Whenever the instrument panel is renewed, the ignition key programming procedure must be repeated.

Instrument panel system

The instrument panel comprises a LCD digital display unit.
The information shown in the display can be accessed using the rwo control buttons (1), (2), the turn signal off
button (3) and the headlight flasher button (4) on the left-hand handlebar switch. Underneath the digital display there
are six indicator lights (three per side) and a further three auxiliary lights used to signal reaching of the limiter
threshold.
The instrument panel is equipped with a sensor that detects the intensity of the ambient light. The instrument panel
automatically switches its backlighting on or off according to the intensity of light detected. The instrument panel
also has an internal temperature sensor which, if the temperature rises above 70 °C, switches off the backlighting to
prevent possible damage.
The instrument panel also houses the atmospheric pressure sensor: the engine ECU acquires this signal via the CAN
(Controller Area Network) serial communication line.

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Indicator lights
The following indicator lights are mounted on the instrument panel.
5 Neutral (N) indicator (green): illuminates when the gearbox is in neutral.
6 Fuel reserve warning light (amber): illuminates when there are only approximately 2 litres of fuel left in the tank.
7 Turn signal indicator lights (green): start flashing when the turn signals are in operation.
Engine oil pressure warning light (red): illuminates when the engine oil pressure is too low. This light should come
8 on when the ignition is switched to ON and normally goes out a few seconds after engine starts. It may come on
briefly if the engine is very hot, but should go out again as engine speed increases.
9 High beam indicator light (blue): illuminates when the high beam headlight is on.
“EOBD engine/vehicle diagnostics light” (amber): the engine ECU illuminates this light steadily to indicate errors
10
and, in certain cases, the consequent engine lockup.
11 Rev limiter light - over rev (red):
- Indicator lights 11B + 11C: illuminate steadily 400 rpm before intervention of the rev limiter.
- Indicator lights 11A + 11B + 11C: illuminate steadily 800 rpm before intervention of the rev limiter.
- Indicator lights 11A + 11B + 11C: start flashing when the rev limiter is reached.

Display settings and functions

On switching on the power (key turned from OFF to ON), the instrument panel activates all the digits of the LCD for
1 second and switches on all the warning lights in sequence.
It then reverts to “normal” display mode and, in place of motorcycle speed, shows the model and also, for 2 seconds,
in place of the motorcycle speed, the version (EU, UK, USA, CND, FRA, JAP).
The model is scrolled on the display once only.

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At Key-On, the instrument panel always shows the following information (de-activating any previously activated
functions):
- Odometer
- Speed
- Engine rpm bargraph
- Engine oil temperature bargraph
At this point, by pressing switch (1) “▼” it is possible to switch from the odometer display function (TOT) to the
following functions:
- TRIP
- TRIP FUEL (only if active)
- Clock
- before returning to theOdometer (TOT) function.
If, however, you press button (2) “▼” the system enters MENU mode and displays the following functions in sequence:
- Error (only if at least one error is present)

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- BATT
- RPM
- Light Set
- LAP (OFF or ON)
- LAP MEM
- DDA (OFF or ON)
- Erase DDA
- TIME Set
- CODE (only active if at least one IMMOBILIZER error is present).

Important
This menu is active only if the speed of the motorcycle is less than 20 km/h. If this menu is on the display and the
speed of the motorcycle exceeds 20 km/h, the instrument panel automatically exits the menu and returns to the initial
display. It is possible to exit the menu at any time, however, by pressing switch (2) “▼” for 3 seconds.

Total distance travelled indicator (odometer)

This function displays the total distance travelled.
At Key-On the system automatically enters this function.
The reading is saved permanently and cannot be reset.
If it exceeds 99999 km (or 99999 miles), the reading “99999” remains displayed permanently.

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Motorcycle speed
This function displays the motorcycle speed.
The instrument panel receives actual speed value (expressed in km/h) from the ECU and displays the value increased
by 8%.
The maximum speed that can be displayed is 299 km/h (186 mph).
Over 299 km/h (186 mph) the display will show a series of dashes “- - -“ (steadily lit - not flashing).

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Engine oil temperature indicator

This function displays the engine oil temperature.

Display indications:
- if the temperature is between -40 °C and +70 °C, the display shows “STATUS 2”.
- if the temperature is between +71 °C and +90 °C, the display shows “STATUS 3”.
- if the temperature is between +91 °C and +175 °C, the display shows “STATUS 4”.
- if the temperature is between +176 °C and +187 °C, the display shows “STATUS 5”.
- if the temperature is between +188 °C and +192 °C, the display shows “STATUS 6”.
- if the temperature is between +193 °C and +196 °C, the display shows “STATUS 7”.
- if the temperature is between +197 °C and +199 °C, the display shows “STATUS 8”.
- if the temperature is 200 °C the display shows “STATUS 9” with the series of dashes flashing;
in the event of a FAULT with the sensor, the display will flash “STATUS 1.

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“TRIP” meter
This function displays the distance travelled since the last reset.
While in this function, if you press switch (1) “▲” for 3 seconds, the reading is reset to zero.
If the reading exceeds 999.9, it is reset to zero and the count restarts automatically.
If the system’s units of measurement are changed at any time with the “Setting Special” function, the reading in this
function is reset and the count restarts from zero in the newly set unit of measurement.

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“TRIP FUEL” (distance travelled on reserve fuel) indicator

This function displays the distance travelled on reserve fuel.
When the fuel warning light (6) comes on, the TRIP FUEL meter is activated automatically, regardless of the function
displayed. If the fuel level remains in reserve, the reading is saved even after Key-Off.
The count stops automatically when the fuel level rises above reserve.
If the reading exceeds 999.9, it is reset and the count restarts automatically.

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Service indicator
Indicates that the next service is due.
The indicator ( ) signals when the next service is due.
The service indicator is displayed at the following intervals:
- after the first 1000 km on the odometer;
- every 12000 km on the odometer.

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The service indicator will remain on the display until reset.

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Battery voltage indicator (BATT)

This function displays the battery charge level.
To display this function, go into the menu and select the “BAT” page.
The battery voltage reading is displayed as follows:
- if the reading is between 12.1 and 14.9 Volts, it is steadily illuminated on the display;
- if the reading is between 10.0 and 12.0 Volts or between 15.0 and 16.0 Volts, it flashes on the display;
if the reading is less than or equal to 9.9 Volts, the message “LO” flashes on the display and the “EOBD Vehicle/
-
Engine diagnostics” warning light (10) comes on;
if the reading is greater than or equal to 16.1 Volts, the message “HI” flashes on the display and the “EOBD Vehicle/
-
Engine diagnostics” warning light (10) comes on.

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Engine idle speed adjustment (rpm)

This function displays the engine idle speed adjustment.
To display the function, access the menu and select the “RPM” page.
In addition to the upper rev counter scale, the display also shows engine rpm numerically so that you can adjust the
idle speed more precisely.

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LIGHT SET backlighting adjustment

This function allows adjustment of the brightness of the display backlighting.
To enable the function, enter the menu and select the “LIGHT SET” page.
While in this page, press the reset button (3) for 3 seconds to enable adjustment and display the following pages in
sequence:
page 1 - “LIGHT MAX” setting:
This page sets backlighting to maximum brightness; press switch (1) “▲” to move to page 2.
page 2 - “LIGHT MID” setting:
This page reduces the backlighting by approximately 30% relative to maximum brightness; press switch (1) “▲” to
return to page 3.
page 3 - “LIGHT MIN” setting:
This page reduces the backlighting by approximately 70% relative to maximum brightness; press switch (1) “▲” to
return to page 1.

In each of the three pages, pressing the reset button for 3 seconds will select the corresponding backlighting
brightness, save it to memory, and return you to the “LIGHT SET” page.

In the event of an interruption of the power supply from the battery (Batt-OFF), when power is restored at the next
Key-On, the backlighting will be set by default to maximum brightness.

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LAP function
This function displays the recorded lap time.
To activate this function, enter the menu and set the “LAP” function to “On” by pressing the reset button (3) for
3 seconds.
START and STOP the timer by pressing the high beam FLASH switch (4) on the left-hand handlebar switch.
When the LAP function is active, each time you press the flasher switch, the display will show the lap time for
10 seconds, before reverting to normal mode.
You can save a maximum of 30 laps in the memory.
If the memory is full, each time you press the flasher switch, no more lap times can be saved and the display will
show the flashing message “FULL” for 3 seconds until the memory is reset.

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When you switch the LAP function off from the menu, the lap in progress will not be saved.
If the LAP function is active and the instrument panel is suddenly switched off (Key-Off), the LAP function is switched
off automatically (even if the timer was ON, the lap in progress is not saved).
If the timer is not stopped, when it reaches 9 minutes, 59 seconds and 99 hundredths, it restarts from 0 (zero) and
continues until the function is switched off.
If the LAP function is activated and the “memory” is not reset, but less than 30 laps are saved (e.g.: 18 laps saved)
the display will save all the remaining laps until the memory is full (in this case a further 12 laps can be saved).
In this function, lap time only is displayed, but other data are also saved (MAX rpm, rev limiter if reached) for viewing
at a later date in the Lap Memory function.

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LAP Memory display

Displays the data saved using the LAP function: lap time, MAX speed and MAX rpm (and limiter if reached).
To display the saved lap times, enter the menu and select the “LAP MEM” page.
From this menu page, if you hold pressedreset (3) for 3 seconds, the data for the “1st lap” will appear. The display will
show the lap number, lap time, MAX speed and the MAX rpm reached for the lap in question.
If you press the switch (1) “▲”, the display scrolls through the 30 saved times, before returning to the 1st lap.
If you hold the reset button (3) for 3 seconds while displaying the saved times, the instrument panel immediately
resets all the saved times. In this case, if the LAP function was active, it is switched off automatically.
If there is no reading in the memory, the 30 times are shown, with the display showing “00.00.00”, MAX rpm = 0 and
MAX speed = 0.

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During the lap, if the engine reaches one of the two thresholds before the limiter or the limiter itself, the respective
warning lights (11A), (11B) or (11C) will illuminate during the display of the saved times.

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DDA data acquisition

This function activates the DDA (Ducati Data Analyzer) (Sect. P 10, USB Data Acquisition kit). In order to acquire data,
the DDA must be connected to the motorcycle wiring loom.
To activate the DDA, go into the menu and set the “DDA” to “On” by pressing reset (3) for 3 seconds.
The text DDA (small) will illuminate and will remain visbile even outside the menu.
To START and STOP the lap separator press the high beam FLASH button (4) on the left-hand handlebar switch.

If the DDA function is active and the instrument panel is suddenly switched off (Key-Off), the function is automatically
disabled.

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Erase DDA
This function enables you to delete the data saved on the DDA: in order to delete data, the DAQ must be connected to
the motorcycle wiring loom.
To delete the data, enter the menu and select the “Erase DDA” page.
If you press reset (3) for 3 seconds and the DDA is not acquiring data, the message “WAIT…” appears on the display
for 10 seconds. After 10 seconds, the message “ERASE OK” appears for 2 seconds, to confirm that the DDA data has
been deleted.
If you press reset (3) for 3 seconds and the DDA is acquiring data, the DDA memory is not cleared and the display
shows the message “FAIL” for 2 seconds.

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Clock setting function

This function is used to set the clock time.
To set the clock, enter the menu and select the “TIME Set” page.
From this page, if you press reset (3) for 3 seconds, you enter clock setting mode.
On entering this function, the message “AM” flashes on the display; if you press switch (1) “▲”, the message “PM”
flashes on the display; pressing switch (1) “▲” again returns you to the previous step (if the time is 00:00, when you
switch from AM to PM the time 12:00 will appear);
press button (2) “▼” to proceed to set the hours value, which now starts flashing. Each time you press the switch (1)
“▲”, the count advances cyclically in steps of 1 hour; if you hold pressed the switch (1) “▲”, the count advances
cyclically in steps of 1 hour every second (when the switch is held down continuously, the hours do not flash);
press button (2) “▼” to proceed to set the minutes value, which now starts flashing. Each time you press the switch
(1) “▲”, the count advances cyclically in steps of 1 minute; if you hold pressed switch (1) “▲”, the count advances
cyclically in steps of 1 minute every second. If switch (1) “▲” is held pressed for more than 5 seconds, the minutes
advance by 1 every 100 ms (when the switch (1) “▲” is held pressed continuously, the seconds do not flash);
if you press switch (1) “▲”, the system exits setting mode and displays the newly set time.

Notes
If the power supply is disconnected (Battery-Off), the time setting is lost. When power is restored (Battery-On), the
display will show 0:00. Set the time according to the normal procedure.

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Instrument panel diagnostics

Important
The instrument runs the system diagnostics correctly 60 seconds after the last Key-Off.

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Any errors detected in the behaviour of the motorcycle are displayed.

If there are several errors, they are displayed in rolling mode every 3 seconds.
The table below shows the errors that can be displayed.

Warning light Error message Error

TPS 01 Generic error of the throttle position sensor (TPS)

PRESS 02 Generic pressure sensor error

T OIL 03 Generic error of the engine coolant temperature sensor

T-AIR 04 Generic error of the internal air temperature sensor (ECU)

BATT 05 Generic battery voltage error

LAMB 06 Generic error of the lambda sensor heater

FUEL 07 Generic fuel reserve error

COIL 09 Generic coil error

INJE 10 Generic fuel injector error

STRT 12 Generic starter contactor error

R INJ 13 Generic injection relay error

STEPP 14 Generic stepper motor error

ECU 16 Generic engine ECU error

PK UP 17 Generic pick-up sensor error

SPEED 18 Generic speed sensor error

IMMO 19 Generic immobilizer error

CAN 20 Generic CAN line error

LIGHT 21 Generic error of main/low beam headlights

Immobilizer override procedure

Should the immobilizer become locked, you can perform the “Immobilizer Override” procedure from the instrument
panel by entering the respective function as described below.
Select the “CODE” page from the menu.

Notes
This menu is only active if there is at least one immobilizer error.

With this menu page selected, the initial code is always displayed as “00000”. If you now hold the reset button (3)
for 3 seconds, you will access the procedure for entering the electronic code given on the Code Card.

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Entering the code:

on entering this function, the first digit on the left starts flashing.
Each time you press switch (1) “▲”, the number increases cyclically in steps of one digit every second.
press button (2) “▼” to proceed to set the second digit, which now starts flashing. Each time you press switch (1) “▲”,
the number increases cyclically in steps of one digit every second.
press button (2) “▼” to proceed to set the third digit, which now starts flashing. Each time you press switch (1) “▲”,
the number increases cyclically in steps of one digit every second.
press button (2) “▼” to proceed to set the fourth digit, which now starts flashing. Each time you press switch (1) “▲”,
the number increases cyclically in steps of one digit every second.
press button (2) “▼” to proceed to set the fifth digit, which now starts flashing. Each time you press switch (1) “▲”,
the number increases cyclically in steps of one digit every second.
pressing switch (2) “▼” to confirm the code.

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If the code has been entered correctly, the message CODE and the code itself will flash simultaneously for 4 seconds.
The “EOBD Vehicle/Engine diagnosis” warning light (10) will go off. The instrument panel then automatically exits the
menu, thus allowing “temporary” starting of the motorcycle.

If the error persists, at the next key-on, the instrument panel will return to an error state and immobilize the engine.
If instead the code has been entered incorrectly, the instrument panel will automatically return to the “CODE” menu
and display the code “00000”.

Automatic turn signal “CANCEL” function

When one of the turn signal has been switched on it can be switched off by pressing the RESET button (3).
If the rider does not press “RESET” button, the turn signal will be cancelled automatically when the motorcycle has
travelled a further 1 km (0.6 mile) from the point at which it was originally switched on.
Operation of the turn signals will be disabled if the power supply voltage exceeds 16 Volt (the instrument panel
“protection” mode is activated). Turn signal operation is also disabled if the power supply voltage falls below 6 Volt, as
general operation of the instrument panel cannot be guaranteed.

Gradual headlight SWITCH ON/OFF function

On Key-On, the low beam headlight (LO) is switched on gradually (time required to switch on approximately

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2 seconds).
Headlight switch off (Key-Off) is also “gradual” (approximate time taken 2 seconds).
The gradual headlight switch on/off function is possible because the low beam headlight iscontrolled directly by the
instrument panel.
Operation of the low beam headlight will be disabled if the power supply voltage exceeds 16 Volt (the instrument panel
“protection” mode is activated). Low beam headlight operation is also disabled if the power supply voltage falls below
6 Volt, as general operation of the instrument panel cannot be guaranteed.

Intelligent headlight switch-off

This function helps reduce battery use by automatically switching off the headlight. The device is triggered in 2 cases:
in the first case, if you turn the key from OFF to ON and do not start the engine within 60 seconds, the headlight is
-
turned off and will be turned on again only when the engine is next switched on;
in the second case, the headlight is switched off while the engine is being started and switched back on again when
-
the engine is running.

Service Menu
This MENU provides some useful functions for your DUCATI Dealer.
To enter this MENU, press switch (2) “▼” and simultaneously turn the keyswitch from OFF to ON.

Warning
Within this “MENU” all other functions are excluded and motorcycle starting is disabled.

The first function to be displayed is always “Immobilizer Reprogramming” (00000 PRO).

At this point, pressing switch (1) “▲” displays the “Special Settings” function (UNIT SET).
After having made the required changes, turn the key switch from “ON” to “OFF” to save the new settings to memory.
The new parameter settings will be applied at the next Key-On.
Example:
the count-down, because the keys have been erased from memory and the immobilizer is to be reprogrammed with
-
the new keys;
- the new units of measurement for the values displayed and the new version indication.

Reprogramming the immobilizer

This function is for reprogramming the immobilizer system in the event of loss or damage to one or both of the keys.
To display this function, go into the Service menu and select the page “00000PRO”.
On entering this page, the initial code is always displayed as “00000”. If you press the RESET button (3) for
3 seconds, you will access the procedure for entering the electronic code given on theCode Card.
Entering the code:
- on entering this function, the first digit on the left starts flashing;
- each time you press the switch (1) “▲”, the number increases cyclically in steps of one digit every second;
press switch (2) “▼” to proceed to set the second digit, which will now start flashing. Each time you press switch (1)
-
“▲”, the number increases cyclically in steps of one digit every second;
press switch (2) “▼” to proceed to set the third digit, which will now start flashing. Each time you press switch (1)
-
“▲”, the number increases cyclically in steps of one digit every second;
press switch (2) “▼” to proceed to set the fourth digit, which will now start flashing. Each time you press switch (1)
-
“▲”, the number increases cyclically in steps of one digit every second;
press switch (2) “▼” to proceed to set the fifth digit, which will now start flashing. Each time you press switch (1)
-
“▲”, the number increases cyclically in steps of one digit every second;
- press switch (1) “▲” to confirm the code.
At this point, if the code was entered incorrectly, the instrument panel will display the initial code “00000”. There is no
limit to the number of times the code may be entered incorrectly.

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If the code has been entered correctly, the message “COD” and the code entered will flash simultaneously; at this
point, turn the key switch to Off.
From this moment on, the immobilizer system is waiting to be programmed with the new key (or keys); at the next
Key-On, reprogram the keys using the procedure described in “Programming the Immobilizer”.

Notes
During this stage, the immobilizer system will immobilize the engine until the keys have been reprogrammed.

Warning
In the programming procedure, once the new keys have been inserted, the instrument panel cancels the old keys from
the system but does NOT cancel from memory either of the two electronic codes saved during the FIRST immobilizer
programming procedure. This means that the electronic code on the Code Card will continue to perfom its dual
function, providing access to both the “Immobilizer ovveride” procedure and the “ Immobilizer reprogramming”
procedure.

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Loss of the Code Card

Without knowing the electronic code on the CODE CARD, it is impossible to:
- reprogram the immobilizer system in the event of loss of one or both of the keys;
- temporarily override the immobilizer in the event of a fault.
To restore the entire system to full operation, it is necessary to renew the KEY SET (2 black keys + new CODE CARD)
and the instrument panel, and thus programming the immobilizer again.

Loss of one key

After purchasing a new key, perform the Reprogramming procedure (by entering the code shown on the CODE CARD)
with the new key and the remaining key.

Loss of both keys

After purchasing two new keys, perform the Reprogramming procedure (by entering the code shown on the CODE
CARD) with the new keys.

Renewal of the key kit (new locks, nuew Code Card, new keys)
After installing a new key kit, the two new keys must be reprogrammed (by entering the electronic code on the old
CODE CARD).
Keep the new CODE CARD as it could become “active” in the event of future renewal of the instrument panel and the
consequent programming of the immobilizer system.

Renewal of the instrument panel

After purchasing the new instrument panel, perform the normal “Programming” procedure for the immobilizer system.

Renewing the instrument panel after renewing one or both of the keys
In this case, if you want the immobilizer to be fully functional, before programming the immobilizer, first renew the
KEY SET as well (2 black keys + new CODE CARD).
If the new instrument panel is programmed with the keys renewed previously, it will be possible to start the
motorcycle but the electronic code shown on the CODE CARD will no longer enable you to:
- reprogram the immobilizer system in the event of loss of one or both of the keys;
- temporarily override the immobilizer in the event of a fault.

Special settings (vehicle model and units of measurement)

This function allows you to select the units of measurement displayed on the instrument panel.
The ECU automatically communicates to the instrument panel the motorcycle model and the units of measurement to
be used on the display: to change these parameters, go into the “Service Menu ” and select the “SET UNIT” function.
PressRESET (3) to display the versions.

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Each time you press switch (1) “▲” or (2) “▼”, the instrument panel scrolls through the following sequence of options,
which flash on the display:

Units of measurement
COUNTRY Speed Air temperature Counters
EU km/h °C km
UK mph °C miles
USA mph °F miles
CND km/h °C km
FRA km/h °C km
JAP km/h °C km
ECU ld. The instrument configures the unit of measurement
parameters in accordance with information relayed from
the ECU

If you press the reset button (3) for 3 seconds, the option currently displayed will be saved to memory and the word
“MEM” will appear. The new parameter setting will applied at the next Key-On.

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Programming the immobilizer

This instrument panel function enables programming of the Immobilizer System.

Notes
Only 2 keys may be programmed.

Insert KEY 1 (one of the two black keys) and turn the ignition switch from Off to On:
- within 3 seconds turn the ignition switch from On to Off;
- within 15 seconds insert KEY 2 (the other black key) and turn the ignition switch from Off to On;
- within 3 seconds turn the ignition switch from On to Off;
- within 15 seconds, insert KEY X again (either Key 1 or Key 2) and turn the ignition switch from OFF to ON.

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If the procedure was successful, the instrument panel will display the message “PROG” steadily for 3 seconds before
returning to normal display mode.

Programming aborted:
if you allow the 3 second countdown after Key-On or the 15 second countdown after Key-Off to elapse, or you make a
mistake in the programming procedure, the instrument panel will abort the programming operation and display the
message “OFF” for 3 seconds before returning to the normal display mode.

Important
During the programming procedure, the instrument panel, in addition to saving the key codes in its memory, retrieves
two “electronic” codes from the insertion of KEY 1 (the first black key to be inserted) and KEY 2 (the second black key
to be inserted).

If the immobilizer is reprogrammed, the key codes will be erased and replaced with the new codes of the new keys;
the two “electronic” codes, however, remain permanently in memory and cannot be deleted or overwritten.
The code on the Code Card corresponds to one of the two electronic codes and is used for the Immobilizer Recovery

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and Immobilizer Reprogramming procedures.

1

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8 - Immobilizer and transponder

The immobilizer allows the vehicle to be started only if the rider uses the special ignition key which
sends the identification code to a decoder housed in the instrument panel. The transmission-
receiving system is composed of a TRANSPONDER housed in the ignition key heads and an antenna
in the vicinity of the ignition switch.

Keys with transponder

The two keys contain the secret code that is used for programming the immobilizer system and
which enables engine starting.
The transponder is fitted inside the key grip and consists of a power supply circuit, a ROM (Read-
Only Memory) and a transmission circuit. The transponder receives its power from the magnetic
field generated by the antenna, which is enabled as soon as the instrument panel is switched on.
Since the transponder is very compact and needs no external battery power supply, it is moulded
permanently into the key grip.

Warning
The circuits in the key grips are not shockproof and may therefore be damaged by violent impact.

Immobilizer antenna
The antenna consists of a plastic-coated copper coil connected to a cable that is terminated with a
connector.
The antenna (A) is fitted onto the cover (B) of the ignition lock, which is specifically modified for the
purpose to create a seat in which the antenna is inserted and engaged.

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Immobilizer operating principle

At key-on (switching on the instrument panel by turning the key) the decoder (incorporated in the
instrument panel) activates the antenna, which emits an electromagnetic field that serves to power
the transponder in the key grip. The transponder responds by transmitting the code that is stored
on its internal ROM memory, and which is picked up by the antenna and relayed to the decoder.
Here the transponder code is compared to a second code. If the outcome of the comparison is
positive, engine starting is enabled.

Warning light signals and immobilizer indications

When the ignition key is turned from ON to OFF, the immobilizer system activates the engine lock.
When the ignition key is turned from OFF to ON to start the engine:
1) if the code is recognised, the protection system releases the engine lock. When you press the
START button (C), the engine starts;
2) if the code is not recognised, the diagnostics warning light (10) comes on and if, when you
press switch (2) “▼”, the “Error IMMO” message appears on the display, this indicates that the
code has not been recognised. In this case, turn the ignition key back to OFF and then to ON
again. If the engine still does not start, try again with the other black key. If the engine still does
not start, proceed with fault diagnosis.

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Removal of the immobilizer and ignition switch

Set the ignition switch to OFF.
Disconnect the immobilizer antenna connector (A) and ignition switch connector (B).

Unscrew the nuts (1) securing the ignition switch cover (2) and remove it along with the
immobilizer antenna.

Unscrew the bolts (3) and remove the igntiion switch (4) from the frame.

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Refitting the immobilizer and ignition switch

Apply the recommended threadlocker to the bolts (3).
Locate the igntion switch (4) on the frame and tighten the bolts (3) to the specified torque
(Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).
Apply a drop of Loctite to the inside of cover (2).

Carefully install the antenna (3) inside the cover (2), securing it with the two lugs (C) on the cover
itself.
Fit the cover to the ignition switch, leading the antenna cable downwards.

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Tighten the nuts (1) to the specified torque (Sect. C 3, Frame torque settings).

Disconnect the wiring connector of the ignition switch (B) and the connector of the antenna
immobilizer (A) from the main wiring loom.

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9 - Diagnostic instruments
For information on the “DDS” tester, refer to Section D 5, DDS tester.

Using a multimeter to check the electrical systems

Introduction
This instrument allows you to measure resistances, voltages, and current values. Multimeters can
be divided into two basic types: those with an analogue display and those with a digital display.
Units of the first type are equipped with a dial and needle. The dial is marked with the scales to be
used for measurement of the various parameters. Digital units are equipped with a dial that
displays numbers corresponding to the values of the measured parameters. The type of
measurement to be carried out (voltage, current or resistance) is set by means of a selector or by
means of several different sockets in which to insert the two test probe connector terminals. In
certain cases it is essential to set the full scale value before proceeding. For example, in order to
measure a 12 V signal, you need to set a full scale that is close to this value (e.g. 15 V or 20 V). It
would be illogical to set a full scale value of 10 V; the same applies when setting current (Amps) or
resistance (Ohms) full scale values. Sometimes the instrument can set the required full scale value
automatically. Never exceed the maximum value allowed by the tester when measuring voltage or
current signals.

Notes
The DDS tester (Sect. D 5, DDS tester) can perform the functions of a digital multimeter.

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Voltage measurement
Voltage measurements must be carried out by connecting the terminals of the tester in parallel to
the load (e.g. to the wires feeding a light bulb or a relay, the two battery terminals, or the two
wires supplying power to a control unit). Voltages can be constant over time (DC voltage) or
variable over time (AC voltage). In the first case, it is important to consider the negative and
positive polarity of the application. It is therefore necessary to select on the multimeter the type of
voltage you intend to measure. (DC voltage is shown by the symbol = while AC voltage is denoted
by ~).

Current measurement
Current measurements must be made by connecting the multimeter terminals in series with the
load (e.g. disconnect one of the wires feeding power to a light bulb and connect one terminal of the
multimeter to the free end of wire and the other terminal to the light bulb. When the lights switch is
set to ON, the bulb will illuminate normally and the tester will show the absorbed current, i.e. the
amount of current passing through the wire. Warning: connections in series must be made and
removed only when the power is switched off. Never attempt to make or break a series connection
when a device is powered. Always make sure that the connection in series of the tester terminals on
the electrical device is made is a safe manner in such a way that it cannot be broken accidentally.

Measurement of resistance values and electrical continuity

Resistance measurements must be taken only when the electrical device or section of the circuit is
not powered and isolated from the main electrical system (i.e. not connected to the main electrical
system). These measurements can be utilised to check the resistance value across several sensors.
For example, after disconnecting the electrical wiring to the rpm/ignition - injection system timing
sensor (on the camshaft drive gear) the relative internal resistance can be checked by connecting a
multimeter to its terminals. This makes it possible to check the electrical continuity of the winding
inside the sensor (a reading of infinite resistance indicates that the winding is interrupted).
Resistance measurement can also be used to check the continuity of sections of the electrical circuit
or relay type switches. For example, to check the condition of a section of the electrical
circuit between two connections, disconnect the connections and connect the terminals of the
multimeter to the ends of the electrical cable in question to check that the specified resistance value
is present. If this value is close to zero (i.e. lower than approximately 0.3 ohm) this means that the
cable is not interrupted.
Some instruments feature an audible signal that is emitted when the resistance approaches a value
of zero. The same procedure must be adopted to check whether, for example, two contacts of a
switch (relay or manual type) are making the contact correctly when closed. In this case the
terminals of the multimeter must be connected to the switch terminals, checking that the resistance
value is close to zero (or listening for the audible signal) when the switch is closed. To check that
the multimeter is functioning correctly in “electrical continuity test” mode, short out the two test
probes. The resistance value indicated must be almost nil and the audible signal must be activated.

Protections and precautions

The multimeter is equipped with protective fuses and batteries. These components must always be
in perfect condition to ensure that the instrument is functioning correctly. When making electrical
measurements always use the maximum caution to avoid short circuits, which can otherwise cause
irreparable damage to the electrical system and constitute a personal injury hazard.
All maintenance work must be performed exclusively when the system is not live (disconnect the
battery in advance). NEVER connect the multimeter in parallel to make current measurements, and
NEVER connect it in series to carry out voltage measurements.

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