instructables

Adding a Dust Collection System

by WardWorks

After cleaning up my shop (and a lot of dust), I decided to add dust collection. A dust collection system is composed of a
motor and impeller that sucks sawdust into a collection bag. Each sawdust producing piece of equipment is connected
to the impeller through pipes.
One of the big things I learned midway in this project is that if you're adding dust collection, chances are you will need to
put it on a separate breaker. Since I was doing electrical work in the shop at that point anyway, it wasn't a major issue. The
dust collector is on its own 20 amp breaker. Make sure the receptacle is rated at 20 amps as well. To determine if you have
a 20 amp receptacle, they have a horizontal slot branching o one of the vertical slots. While my breaker box is labeled, I
also wrote the circuit on the actual duplex receptacle box as well.
If you don't have any big pieces of equipment like a table saw you may not need a separate circuit, but if you are using
handheld equipment it's unlikely you would be installing dust collection anyway.
Supplies:

I started with the 2 HP Harbor Freight dust collector. Many people upgrade to a Rikon 60-200 impeller, but I didn't want
to spend the $110 for it. A mandatory upgrade is the lter.
General Requirements:
Harbor Freight 2 HP Dust Collector
Piping & connectors
Blast Gates
Thien Ba e
Galvanized Trash Can
Wynn Filter Upgrade
Cost $450
Piping List (Speci c to My Set up/Equipment):
(3) sections of 10'-0" 4" PVC pipe
(10) 4" PVC wye
(2) 4" PVC end cap
(4) 45* PVC elbow
(11) blast gates - DIY
(10) pipe clamps - DIY
Cost $125
Materials for Blast Gates (x11):
4" PVC pipe cut to 2.5" sections (or a coupler depending on your setup)
1/2" MDF for the Gate Body and handles
1/4" MDF for the blades and spacers
1/2" wood screws
Cost- roughly $40 depending on how much scrap you have
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Materials for Thien Ba e:
Plywood top and bottom (roughly 18"x18")
Plywood Pipe Port
PVC pipe
PVC Hub Coupling
(4) 6" lengths of 5/16" threaded rod
(16) 5/16" fender washers
(16) 5/16" nuts
6"x38" LVT plank
Caulk to seal joints, gaps, etc.
Cost - $20-50 depending on how much scrap you have
Materials for Equipment Hookups:
(2) 4"x10' Flex Pipe
(3) 4" Whyes
(5) 4" PVC Flanges
Styrene to box out table saw, band saw, router
(3) 2.25" to 4" reducer
(1) 2.5" ex pipe
(13) 4" Worm Gear clamps
Cost: $60
Total Cost: $600 range depending on various factors
Tool List:
table saw with crosscut sled
jig saw/band saw
router
drill
router circle cutting jig
round le
1" forstner bit
1/8" bit/drill
5/16" drill bit
1/4" router cutting bit
1/8" router cutting bit

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Step 1: Filter Upgrade

I bought a Wynn lter for two hundred dollars. The out of the box HF lter woefully under performs. The Wynn lter
drastically increases lter surface area and will stop much ner particles.
The pleated design increases surface area which increases ow. The Wynn lter is designed to retro t to various dust
collectors. I cut out a plywood ange as the dust collector body slopes. I caulked the ange in place. The lter has worm
gear straps that attach from the dust collector body to the lter. It's a neat design. You drill a hole for a screw and the
bracket. The worm gear has hooks that attach to the bracket and to the metal guard on the lter.
To reduce the amount of dust that reaches the lter and to reduce any wood chips that could hit the impeller, you need a
chip separator.

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Step 2: Chip Separator/ Thien Baffle

I built a Thien ba e. It separates chips and dust before they reach the impeller and lter. A clean lter maximizes air ow.
The ba e is placed inline before the impeller, with the ba e mounted to a trash can to collect chips/dust.
My 4" PVC pipe runs right into the Thien ba e, no turns. I wanted to maintain air ow. I remounted the HF impeller
directly on top of the ba e in a top hat con guration. I used the supplied HF pipe to connect the impeller to the
collector bag in a straight run that is ~4" long, avoiding the longer curve of the out of the box setup. The trash can is
mounted on blocks to get it to the right height that matches my pipe which had to clear my nearby counter.
To make the ba e, I built a circle cutting jig out of scrap. The trash can has a 17" diameter. The ba e is roughly the same.
With a 1.5" interior slot. The inside clear height is 4.75".
I considered a Thien ba e and a cyclone. Based on space and anecdotal evidence I went with the Thien.
Cut List:
(2) 18"x19" blanks for the top and bottom
(1) 4.75"x2"
(1) 4.75"x5.75"
(1) 4.75"x9.25"
(1) 37" long x 6" hardboard panel for the sides

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I started with a galvanized trash can, this dictates the size of the ba e. This trash can has a 17" inner clear diameter. I
chose this trash can as I'm putting my dust collection in a corner, and I have to maintain a certain width.
While you can buy trash can tops that mimic the design and some designs have the ba e completely inside the trash
can, I wanted the PVC pipe to run straight into the ba e with no 90* turns. The ba e will sit on top of the trash can with a
plywood lip to ensure good tment.
I rough cut 18"x19" blanks for the top and bottom of the ba e. Both have a 2"x5.75"x10" extension for the pipe inlet. I
made the rough cuts a bit wider than necessary to leave room for the router to trim.
The top has a 5" hole for the dust collector motor. The motor outlet will feed directly to the lter bag.
The interior bottom of the ba e has a 240* 1.5" wide slot. Both top and bottom have a 1/8" wide x 1/4" channel for the
vinyl sides. That channel runs right into the bottom slot.
The circle cutting jig made cutting the curves very easy while ensuring the top and bottom were exactly the same size. I
cut each slot with two passes as trying to cut through .75" in one pass was too much strain on the router. The jig ensures
each pass is aligned.
A 4.25" diameter hole was cut out of the 4.75"x5.75" cut. This is for the inlet.
While I used (4) threaded rods to space the top and bottom, doing this again I might have just used wood posts around
the perimeter. I was reusing rods, so I had to re-thread them to clean them. The top and bottom are sandwiched with
washers and nuts.
I sketched up a few iterations and while the rst few didn't have space around the perimeter, the nal version did as I
needed a ledge for the ba e to sit on a trash can. The LVT oor plank sides are 6" deep along the slot, but 5.25"
everywhere else. A quarter of an inch is inside the channel on the top and bottom plate. I didn't want to create any kind
of ledge to catch dust so the sides extend the depth of the slot. Originally I was going to use hardboard, but it just
doesn't ex enough to t the diameter. It snapped trying to t it to a 17" diameter.
A ring with a 17" outer diameter was glued to the bottom. It's 1" wide and the face is ush with the slot. This ring helps
mount the ba e to the trash can.
I glued the inlet together and to the bottom rst. I glued it to the top at the same time I caulked the channels for the side
and tightened the nuts down for a tight t.
I measured the nut/washer height to exactly 4.75". I tightened the bottom nuts down and then prepped to caulk the
sidewall in place on the top and bottom. I wanted to be sure it was air tight. With the sides being in a channel, caulk lls
any potential air gaps.
I added weather stripping to the trash can. I want a air tight t between the ba e and can. I added a tab on one of the
back corners to prevent the ba e from wanting to turn. The bottom plate needed to be about an inch wider to sit on the
trash can properly.
I considered attaching springs to hold the ba e to the trash can, hooking to the can's handles and drilling a hole into the
bottom plate. With the motor mounted to the wall and the way my trash can is mounted, I didn't need the springs. The
trash can sits on a plywood sheet bolted to a scissor jack. The scissor jack lifts the trash can tight against the ba e which
is hung from the motor. The motor is mounted to the wall. Lowering the scissor jack lowers the trash can and allows for
removal.

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Step 3: Piping

I did a lot of research in how to set up the piping. You want to maximize air ow which means as many straight runs and
as few curves as possible. Any branches need to be wyes, not tees. I have a straight run of pipe running down the wall
with a branch that goes up the wall and across the ceiling. At any 90* turns you want to use two 45s and a straight run of
pipe instead of a 90* elbow. You want to minimize the use of ex pipe and use tapered reducers to equipment ports if
possible. My pipe height was dictated by counters. It's roughly at 42" above the oor.
The inlet of the HF collector is 5", so there is no reason to exceed that size pipe. There is debate as to whether the HF
collector can provide su cient air ow for 5". I selected 4" PVC pipe due to cost and availability. Use PVC sewer and drain
pipe instead of the heavier, more expensive schedule 40 PVC. You want to maintain the 4" up to and including the
machines if possible, though many machines simply can't t a 4" line. Enlarge the ports of machines when possible. When
you have to install a reducer, a tapered reducer is preferred to help air ow.
At a few machines, band saw, router, table saw, I wanted two pickups. You want to use as little ex pipe as possible, but at
the machine it's unavoidable. You need enough ex pipe to move the machine as well.
At each branch/Wye, you need a blast gate to close loops and maximize air ow suction. I made my own gates. They are
better as there is no track for dust to ll up and are much cheaper.
I also made my own pipe wall brackets out of 2x4s. It's recommended to fasten joints with screws rather than glue so you
can open the system easily to dislodge jams. With my pipe brackets, everything stays in place. The only thing I might do is
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Step 4: Pipe Brackets

The brackets are made from 2x4s with a bracket roughly every 48". I sketched a shape across (2) 2x4s and then cut them
out on a band saw. I then sanded them to smooth out the cuts and smoothed them with spackle. I drilled a hole dead
center to mount to the wall and two more to attach the clamp to the base. Then I painted them. Make sure that if you use
masonry anchors, the screws are long enough to fully engage the anchor. That either requires longer screws or the screw
to be recessed in the bracket.

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Step 5: Dust Collector Installation

I had a few restrictions. I wanted the collector in a corner that was only 18" wide and had a garage door swing arm in the
space. This meant the lter/bag could not t in the corner. To make this work I needed the trash can to t in the corner. I
opted for a galvanized trash can with concerns a plastic one could collapse under pressure.
My pipe ran attached to the wall, which meant the Thien ba e inlet had to be against the wall. The pipe had to be higher
than 36" to clear my counter, which meant the Thien ba e had to be above 36". That dictated the trash can height which
would needed a 10.5" riser. The motor mounted to the top of the ba e dictated a riser for the bag/ lter body so that the
impeller housing outlet lined up with the bag/ lter inlet. I used masonry anchors to attached 3/4" plywood to the wall to
mount the motor. I bought longer screws as the ones that came with the anchors weren't long enough to go through the
plywood and fully engage the anchor.
The Thien ba e hangs from the motor, I used scrap metal channel and threaded rod to create a clamp.
I had to raise the lter/bag bracket to make all this work. I added 2x6 blocks with a 1" deck board topper between the
stock base and casters. I did have to drill out for bolts and bracing on the existing platform.
To dump the trash can, I bolted 3/4" plywood to the smallest scissor jack I had on hand. Lowering the jack lowers the
trash can from the Thien ba e, allowing me to dump it. The plywood is cut round with a 1/4" channel for the trash can
bottom edge to sit into for stability.

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I put the trash can and impeller in place, a mock up to start cutting pipe. I went one piece at a time, guring out the best
place for the wye. The process went quickly. I did not caulk any joints yet, I want to make sure everything is in the right
spot. That will be the last step, if necessary.

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Step 6: Blast Gates

You can get cheap blast gates, but they're not great. Nicer ones are more expensive, but you can build your own that
work well and don't break the bank. While I could get rather simple ones for a few bucks, I don't want a gate with a track
that will eventually ll with sawdust and impede operation. The nicer gates are $12 each so I'm going to make my own.
Blast gates restrict air ow to one tool, otherwise you wouldn't get enough suction. Gates are made from 1/2" MDF for
the body and 1/4" MDF for the blade as it's cheap and smooth. I need 11 for my set up.
I've got a blast gate at each piece of equipment and where my piping branches from wall up to the ceiling. I located blast
gates as close to the main run as possible. My goal is always to reduce line length or e ective line length when possible.
Once the gates are in place, caulk all the joints. You want to stop any air leakage to maximize e ciency. I have a ~2.5"
piece of 4" PVC on each side of the gate. At a few gates I have a 4" to 2.25" adapter caulked into the gate. You want to
caulk last in case you need to move/change/undo the layout. You could get away without caulking the joints unless you
notice suction.
Cut List (each):
(2) 6.75"x6" 1/2" MDF Gate Body - 4 3/16" hole for the pvc pipe or 4.5" hole for coupler
(2) 6"x0.5" 1/4" MDF spacers/sides
(2) 4" PVC pipe cut to 2.5" or coupler cut in half
(1) 5.75"x11.75" 1/4" MDF blade
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(2) 5.75"x1" 1/2" MDF for blade handle on each end
Initially I planned to cut couplers in half for each side of the gate, but that would just add an extra joint between the wye
and the gate since I will install the gate right o the wye. Using 4" PVC removes the coupler joint. also, the other side of
the gate will connect to the 4" ex hose or a 4" to 2.25" adapter. The 4" ex hose will not t over 4" PVC pipe. I added an
adapter which was 4" PVC with 5/8" cut out of it. This allows the ex pipe to t over it and it ts inside the 4" PVC out on
the blast gate. I added duct tape where the tension t was loose.
The blade has a hole cut into it, which does make it longer, but it removes a track that could ll with sawdust. It's
frequently called a self-cleaning gate. With a track, it will eventually ll with sawdust and won't completely shut, reducing
air ow. My gates don't have a track, but I do need space on each side of the gate for open and closed orientation.
I created a circle cutting jig for the holes.Half of my gates had too much resistance to slide smoothly after glue up of the
body. I sanded them lightly with a sander until the t was better. It won't take much sanding, only a couple of passes.
The body of the gate is 1/2" MDF with (2) 1/4" MDF spacers on two sides. The blades are 1/4" with 1/2" MDF handle glued
on one side and 1/2" MDF handle screwed on the other side.I screwed it on one side in case I ever need to remove the
gate or if the t becomes an issue and I need to sand it down, I have that option.
I used a round le to smooth out any rough cuts from the circle jig. I oriented the gate in the closed position before
gluing the handle, and I did the same when screwing the other handle in. This ensures full close or full open when the
handle is ush with the body.
I cut a half circle out of the handles with a forstner bit to make pulling the blade easier. I painted just the body of the
gates and the handles. I was concerned that painting the blades could cause them to swell slightly and I didn't want to
have to re-sand them. I also like the contrast between the white body and brown gate.
I cut 2.5" long PVC pipe to caulk into each side of the gate. I caulked the opening before inserting the PVC and the joint
after the PVC pipe was in place. Have the gate closed while doing this so you don't encroach upon the blade path. After
inserting the PVC pipe, ensure the blade operates and wipe away any excess caulk.

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Step 7: Connecting Equipment

Each piece of equipment has a di erent size port, or none at all. I boxed in the table saw with plastic and added a PVC
oor ange to one side.
I also boxed in my router table and added a PVC ange. I was going to split the pipe to collect from the base and top of
the router table, but didn't have the space. I also created a port on the band saw. I didn't box out the band saw as the
pipe runs almost all the way to the blade. I boxed out the other equipment to increase suction at the blade.
I measured how much 4" ex pipe I needed. After coming up short, it seems a 1.5 or even 2x multiplier for how much you
need is a good rule. Since the ex pipe is exactly 4" it won't t over the 4" PVC. I cut 4" lengths of PVC and split them along
the length removing 5/8". This proved an e ective adapter. I used duct tape to increase the tension t as needed. I used a
hobby knife to cut through the vinyl of the ex pipe, make sure my start and end of the cut ended on the same wire
support. I then used a wire cutter to cut through the wire.
I ended up using 4" to 2.25" reducers from harbor freight. They don't taper which is preferred, but the price is right. I had
considered making homemade PVC tapers, but didn't.
I got 2.5" ex pipe, not realizing the mismatch in size. I used EVA foam to ll the gaps from the 2.25" reducer to the 2.5"
ex pipe and from the ex pipe to equipment. I used contact cement to glue the ends of EVA foam together. The EVA
tension ts inside the pipe.

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While I want my ex pipe runs as short as possible, I need some slack to disconnect equipment. Duct tape at one end of
the ex pipe to compress the pipe is the solution to reduce slack.
At the belt sander I used a 45* elbow that directs right at the top. An adapter didn't seem necessary.
I also have an open ex pipe to the work bench with a PVC ange at the end. The ange provides an object to clamp. I did
a few tests to see how much splitting the pick up at the table saw and band saw would a ect suction. Suction is better
with only one pickup, but ultimately I decided to employ two pickups. Even with a split, suction from both pipes wasn't
cut in half. Also two pickups is the best way to reduce sawdust.

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Step 8: Grounding

The following is based on my research. I haven't installed any grounding yet. Whether I do depends on whether/how
much I get shocked. I'm not worried about a re with my setup. A static ground for non-conductive duct work can
prevent static-charge buildup. At a home shop it's more for comfort and to avoid small shocks. It's unlikely static build up
will start a re. To install one, simply run a wire along or around the pipe. Insulated or un-insulated 18- or 20-gauge
copper wire, either solid or stranded, works ne. At pipe joints, leave slack in the wire or install bayonet connectors to
facilitate opening the system in case of a clog.
Run a ground wire along each branch, and splice each into the main wire. Connect the ground wire's conductor to the
dust collector's metal frame or housing. The other end should extend to the outlet port on the tool, but it doesn't need to
connect to anything, except to keep it in place. The wire acts as an antenna rather than a conductor in a circuit.
If you use coarse screws for PVC connections, this also allows for tying in grounding.

Step 9: Conclusion

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The system provides great suction. The rst piece of equipment I connected was the belt sander. I sanded foam as a test
and it got everything.The next tool was a scroll saw. I wasn't able to box out the scroll saw well, but suction was still
impressive, eliminating some of the sawdust covering the top. If I could box it out it would perform even better.
I had planned for double pickups at a few tools. I was unable to do this at the router due to space, but I don't think just
one pick up will su ce since it's di cult to get a port right at the sawdust producing portion of tools.
The dust collector is loud, though I already wear ear protection when using any tools with a motor. It's also one extra step
before I cut anything. I have to switch it on and make sure the correct gates are open.

Built one similar and then built a small insulated room around it to cut down on the noise. Added
a filter box with fan to catch any fine dust that may escape. I wish I had seen your system before
building mine. Nice work.
Some kind of air filtration system to catch what the dust collection doesn't is on my list of future
upgrades.
This is great! I am just in the process of rebuilding my workshop and has been thinking a bit about
how to make a good dust collection system. I will definately steal some of your ideas, not at least
the blast gates.
The blast gates saved a ton of money and work really well.

As an Electrical Engineer, I wish to point out that it is not possible to ground an insulator, and
plastic pipes are insulators. Further, if you are hoping to ground something by wrapping it in wire,
then at least one of the following MUST BE TRUE:
1. The object being wrapped is a conductor,
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2. The wire being use is NOT insulated.
If the object is a conductor, then the wire need only touch at one point and then touch a
grounding point. If the object is not a conductor (i.e. an insulator), then the wire must be bare and
in continuous contact with +99% of the surface in order to "ground" the insulator.

Also, no amount of external "grounding" will have any effect on the build up of static charge
INSIDE the plastic pipes. Again plastic is an insulator, a point charge on the inside CANNOT flow
through the plastic to the outside.

Finally, static electricity DOES NOT and HAS NEVER caused dust ignition within THE Plumbing
(i.e duct work) of ANY vacuum based system. The physics involved do not allow for the required
conditions.

That said, sparks within the impeller chamber have been known to ignite the fine dust cloud at
the impeller exit where the dust temporarily hangs in suspension between the collection bin and
the filter chamber (this supervention is exponentially increased with the use of a vertical filter
directly above the collection chamber). This ignition has been known to then spread along the
plumbing back to the fuel source at extreme speeds resulting in explosions and fire spread.
However, such sparking in the impeller could not be caused by a static discharge as conditions
within the chamber naturally prevent the build up of a static charge sufficient to cause a spark. In
every case where such ignitions have been properly investigated, the spark was cause by two
metallic objects striking each other. Where the chamber and impeller were themselves plastic, the
two objects were shown to be fastener, filings and other metal debris.

The only cases where static discharge was listed, were cases where that was the supposition of
the Fire Department who failed to use proper and through investigative procedures (common for
over 98% of all fires in North America). In most cases of fire, a factual determination of specific
cause is not actually required. If arson is ruled out, then only the most likely area of initial ignition
is required. In the case of explosive combustion, it is common to not be able to determine such
from an initial investigation of the fire; often requiring many weeks or months of careful scientific
investigation. Generally, it is up to the insurance company as to how much time and money is
spent. It is almost always less than what the policy payout is.
One nit. The electricity will be carried on the outside of the PVC pipe. In a dry environment like
where I live I’ve been shocked by my shop vac too many times to count. My shop vac has not
exploded yet. I also got shocked by blowing light snow off the sidewalk with my leaf blower, it took
me a while to figure that one out!

So, the electric charge develops on the outside of the insulator and like lightning hitting a car the
charge travels around the outside not through the pipe. Running a conductor through the middle
of the pipe does nothing because the charge is on the outside of the pipe.

edit: I love the blast gates, I’m going to do that!

Really appreciate your input! I didn't ground the system because I
couldn't find any instances of static discharge actually starting a
fire. I found lots of warnings, but no stories of actual harm. Thank you!
Is it OK to use PVC for dust collection due to static?

If you achieve some type of static electricity ground strap. A single wire run through the main line
is fine - you can even hot-glue it to the inside wall (I'd put it up rather than on the bottom of the
run) of the PVC. The dust may settle on it after a while - I know people who pull a long dryer vent
cleaning brush to and fro every winter when the air gets really dry. But you are thinking! The
PVC, carbon particulates, and dry 21% Oxygen containing air can be very explosive! That is why

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big shops use HVAC vent tubing - whether aluminum or sheet steel, the entire tube becomes a
grounding strap. Plus they can use 6" and 8" ducting tubes for their big runs, they have industrial
sized dust collectors.
Apparently so:
https://woodworking.stackexchange.com/questions/1489/is-pvc-pipe-safe-to-use-for-a-dust-
collection-system
Ground the system. Static won't start a fire... it'll cause an explosion. The dust will flash over so
fast that it'll blow the system apart, and then the fire starts.
Please see my post.

As an Electrical Engineer, I can tell you that there has never been a verified case of static
discharge withing plumbing that has caused dust ignition. There have been cased where metal
debris has struct other metal and that has sparked sufficiently to cause ignition; however, unless
the grounding material is inside the plumbing (or is the plumbing in the case of metal duct work)
and is in contact with at least one of the objects causing the spark, it will have no effect.

Because metal duct work can itself be one of the object causing the spark, such duct work must
be grounded, but plastic duct work is an insulator and therefore by definition cannot be grounded.

Also, while flash overs may happen, over 95% of all dust fires start within the collection bin. The
smolder for minutes to hours before ignition. As such no amount of grounding would prevent
them. For a flash over to happen, the linear burn rate must exceed the linear air flow rate within
the plumbing. Even with dust from a fine grit sander, one of the finest particles produced in most
wood shops, the linear burn rate is typically under 50mph while the linear airflow in exceeds
120mph. Thus any ignition will first move towards the collection bin and is generally extinguished
by the air removing heat faster than the particles can generate it.

This of course changes within the collection bin. Here the particles move into slower moving air
where they can maintain their heat. They are also brought into relatively close proximity creating
a point at witch a blend or fuel and oxygen exist that if provided sufficient heat would ignite in a
self sustaining chain reaction of sufficient intensity to flash over and/or explode. However, as
pointed out earlier, this heat source is not, and has never been, caused by static discharge.

It has been scientifically proven to not be plausible even under the most perfect conditions, and
every case of dust explosion within wood dust collection systems that listed static discharge have
been proven to be insufficiently investigated to justify the conclusion.
I noticed you didn't put a bare ground wire through your PVC or a grounding strap of some type.
This is highly recommended with plastic pipe through which you pull very explosive carbon based
dust fragments when you have any electrical spark sources around. As Dale D states - it just
takes a build up of static electricity to cause the spark for flash ignition. Yes, an explosion. Just
run a wire through the PVC - you can't really ground the PVC but with all the particulate flying
past the chargeable plastic you want a passive grounding wire to touch the PVC along the run
and minimize any static electrical build-up. It is a best practice at the very least, and if your shop
is in a dwelling - it is a safety requirement
Your shop air may have a low level of dust that probably won't ignite or combust easily even with
old brush equiped electric motors sparking - but your PVC will be lined with dust and when in full
action mode - especially with a hardwood on the table saw generating lots of fine dust - the dust
collection PVC is a perfect ignition chamber - all it takes is a spark along the flow path for all the
particulates to combine with oxygen! Boom! - Boom! - Out go the lights!
The link to the Harbor Freight dust collector was outdated. This one works, though:
https://www.harborfreight.com/2-hp-industrial-5-mi...
Adding a Dust Collection System: Page 99
Nice job, and wise move on the Thien baffle and Wynn filter. I built a similar setup in the corner of
my garage 5 years ago, also using that Harbor Freight collector, and it's been great! I also used 4"
PVC thoughout (going in two different directions from the baffle input), and still get good draw with
no collection issues. I made my Thien baffle from a plan I found using a clear plexiglass side wall,
which lets me see the magic in operation. Also, it dumps into a clear-ish 32 gallon Huskee trash
can, which I found at webrestaurantstore.com. Highly recommended!
I just happen to have a book home from the library all about dust collection systems. In it, they
make good arguments for 5" metal ducting. Main reasons are matching air flow to the capabilities
of the collector, and eliminating static issues. Your ideas for starting with the HF unit, then
providing upgrades for filter and chip collection, as well as a good design for DIY blast gates,
would make an excellent combination.
Blijf alert op uw stofstromen door mogelijke stofexplosies door opgewekte statische elektriciteit.

Adding a Dust Collection System: Page 100