Tuning Guide

Daisy/Winchester 1000 trigger (Turkish) V 4.0

By: Russell S. Sauer w/assistance from Rich (aka Foxtrot) and Russell Stephenson-Preston
Index

Copywrite and contact

R. Sauer

Introduction
Warning (Read this before proceeding)
Objective
V 4.0 changes
Legend
Tools and required parts

Trigger group removal

How to remove the trigger group from the action

Trigger group function

Legend
Cocking
Firing

Trigger group modification

Polishing
Upper sear
Lower sear
Trigger lever
Modifications
Sear spring
Trigger blade

Trigger group installation

How to install the trigger group

Trigger group adjustment

Notes and warnings concerning trigger adjustment

Notes on the 2nd variant of the Turkish trigger

Notes concerning changes in materials made by the manufacturer

All text and images contained within are the sole property of their authors. Reproduction and/or
modification in part or in whole is prohibited without specific written consent of the author.
Questions or comments can be mailed to the author at...
rs_enterprises@charter.net
 Introduction
Warning:
The following procedures pose a serious health risk and may cause damage to your airgun if
not performed properly. Any modification of the trigger group may cause accidental
discharge or a bear trap situation. Always pay attention and observe safe gun handling.
TRIGGER PARTS ARE NOT AVAILABLE FROM THE MANUFACTURER,
PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK!

Objective:
Provide a detailed guide on how to convert this heavy, single stage trigger to an adjustable
two stage unit using the original parts.

V 4.0 changes
• Removed advertisements for RSE airgun tuning services

Legend:
Red areas indicate an area that is important.
Yellow areas indicate an area that must be polished.
Red lines either indicate measurements or illustrate a location.

Tools and required parts:

Phillips (cross head) screwdriver
Large flat blade screwdriver
Small punch
Assorted drill bits
Moly paste lube
Small machine screw or finish nail
 Trigger group removal

1. Remove all stock screws and stock. Two screws located at forestock and one at the rear
of the trigger guard.
2. Remove the trigger group retaining screw (5)found at the rear of the trigger housing.
3. Remove safety spring from the front, left of the trigger group. It pivots on the trigger
pin (4) and is applied against the lower sear pivot (3).
4. From the left side, push the trigger spring lever pin (2) until it is flush with the trigger
housing.
5. From the left side, with the rifle on it's side, remove upper sear pin (1).
6. Slide trigger group rearward approx. 1/8 inch and remove from action. NOTE: upper
sear and sear spring are loose at this point and WILL FALL OUT.
7. With the trigger group on a clean, well lit table, proceed to remove all pins, springs,
and contents being sure to keep track of all of them.

DO NOT LOSE ANY COMPONENTS AS THEY ARE NOT AVAILABLE FROM THE
MANUFACTURER!
 Trigger group function

The preceding illustrations show the upper sear in the "cocked" and "fired" states as well as
component orientation. The following is a brief description of what occurs within the group
during cocking and firing.

Legend:
• A - Upper sear
• B - Lower sear
• C - Trigger lever
• D - Sear spring
• E - Trigger spring
• F - Trigger blade
Cocking:
1. The piston is forced rearward by the cocking link.
2. The piston contacts the rear face of the upper sear and pushes it rearward against the
force of the sear spring.
3. The upper sear has rotated fully and now contacts the lower sear catch which locks the
group in the "cocked" position.
4. The rotation of the upper and lower sears enables the trigger spring and lever to apply
pressure against the trigger blade returning it to the forward position.
5. The front face of the upper sear catches on the rearmost ring on the piston body as the
barrel and cocking link are returned to the firing position.

Firing:
1. The trigger blade is pulled rearward which applies pressure against the trigger spring
and lever.
2. The trigger lever then applies pressure against the lower sear which rotates upward.
3. As the lower sear rotates it eventually allows the upper and lower sear surfaces to lose
contact.
4. With nothing preventing it from rotating, the upper sear pivots forward allowing the
piston to travel.
 Trigger group modification
Polishing:
Whenever polishing any of the surfaces in the following steps it is important to polish in
the direction of the part's movement during operation. With the parts oriented as shown
below, polishing would be left to right. It is also important to achieve as smooth a surface as
possible without removing any edges unless noted otherwise.

• A - Upper sear
• The area highlighted in yellow contacts the lower sear. This area is responsible
for most of the friction found within the trigger group. Slightly angle this surface
towards the front to reduce trigger pull.
• B - Lower sear
• The upper area highlighted in yellow contacts the upper sear. This area is
responsible for most of the friction found within the trigger group. Slightly round
the edges here.
• The lower area highlighted in yellow contacts the trigger lever. Although a minor
source of friction, polishing here is advised.
• C - Trigger lever
• The tip of the trigger lever contacts the lower sear while the lower surface of the
trigger lever contacts the trigger blade. Both areas should be polished.

Moly paste should be applied to all polished surfaces prior to assembly.

Please see the last section in this document concerning changes in materials made by the
manufacturer prior to any polishing.
Modifications:
Sear Spring:
Replace the sear spring (D) with a pen spring that has been cut to the same length as the
original spring. Glue this new spring to the lower sear to aid in assembly. "Amazing Goop"
works well here.

Please see the last section in this document concerning changes in materials made by the
manufacturer prior to any modification of the sear spring.
Trigger blade:
The following steps will make an adjustable two stage trigger.

• Remove the existing adjustment screw.

• Find a drill bit slightly larger in diameter than the head of the screw.
• Enlarge the adjustment screw hole (countersink) to a depth of 1/16 inch.
• Remove the "hump" on the top of the blade where the screw protrudes. Make it flush
with the surrounding area. (not shown in illustration)
• Drill a hole and install a second screw or pin .232 inches behind the existing
adjustment screw. For further enhancement, you can locate the new pin/screw .320
behind the existing adjustment screw. This will make the beginning of the second stage
more noticeable but slightly heavier. (not shown in illustration)
• Adjust the new pin/screw to a height of .140 inches and polish upper edges.
Trigger blade V2:
Provided by Russell Stephenson-Preston.

“I followed your instructions for the trigger mod with regard to the position of the second pin
and did the
following...
•
I carefully drilled a 1mm pilot hole by hand with the drill in a pin vice using the
molded line on the trigger as a center line right through the trigger and came out just
behind the original adjustment screw. At least if the drill wanders a little bit you should
be able to correct it a bit with the next drill size up.
•
I then enlarged the hole with a 2.5mm drill and found this to be just the right size to
allow the new grub screw to self tap into the trigger without too much resistance.
The grub screw I used is a 3mm thread 12mm long with a socket head and pointed end.
The point helped with self tapping and the socket head gives you a more positive
location point than a slot for a screw driver. I wound the grub screw right through the
trigger so it stuck out of the top and then removed the point and polished it on my oil
stone. This is a great way to hold the grub screw without damaging the thread.
•
I replaced the original adjusting screw with a second grub screw polishing the end as
above. The original screw on my model was 3mm thread hence the choice of grub
screw. When complete, both screws are easily adjusted through the existing hole in the
trigger guard. This makes setting up the dual stage action a breeze.
•
I didn't use a pen spring on the sear, being a model maker, I had a spring of the same
dimensions but with around half the strength. This works a treat and the squared off
ends mean it is less likely to dislodge with use.”
 Trigger group installation

1. Assemble trigger blade, lever, spring, and associated pins. The trigger lever pin (2)
should be flush with the left side of the trigger housing.
2. Install the lower sear and pin (3)
3. Rest upper sear in place but DO NOT INSTALL PIN YET
4. With both the action and trigger housing horizontal, install the housing.
5. Insert the upper sear pin (1) once the trigger housing is in place.
6. The remainder is simply a case of reversing the removal process. Be sure all pins are in
place with equal overhang on each side before installing the stock

Note: The following notes outline an optional method used to retain the upper sear during
assembly. This method replaces the upper sear pin (1) during assembly.

Provided by Rich (aka Foxtrot)

A trick to putting the trigger back into the rifle, is to cut 3/8's in an inch off the shank end of
a 3/16's drill bit. Just use the stub of the drill bit to assemble the trigger and Then install it
into the rifle. Just push the short stub out with the long pin.
 Trigger group adjustment

Second stage adjustment is strictly dependent upon the installed height of the pin/screw found
here. The height provided in this document has been found to be a good starting point.

First stage adjustment is performed using the original adjustment screw. This adjustment
should only be used to adjust take-up and not trigger weight. If the trigger is still too heavy
then the finish/angle on the polished parts is not acceptable or a step has been skipped
somewhere. Your first stage adjustment is viewable through the window provided on the
right side of the trigger housing.

Always start with the adjustment screw backed out entirely and then make your
adjustments 1/8 turn at a time. Excessive depth of this screw or the second stage
pin/screw can cause a failure to cock, a bear trap, or an accidental discharge.
Notes on the 2nd variant of the Turkish trigger
Changes in materials:
After much prodding by the airgun community, the manufacturer (Hatsan) has made some
much needed improvements within the trigger group. While this does not result in the perfect
trigger, it does reduce the pull weight and improves the overall feel. It also makes it easier to
achieve the desired results when using this guide. The changes are as follows...

● Replaced laminate upper and lower sears with hardened solid steel. This reduces
friction, makes polishing easier, and results in an even contact surface between these
two pieces. When polishing these components, do not remove more material than what
is required to obtain a smooth finish.
● Replaced the sear spring with a lighter version. This reduces trigger pull and improves
latching of the trigger when cocking the rifle. Reducing the length of this spring by
approx. 2-3 coils will produce similar results to methods used on the earlier design.