CHILDREN'S PATTERN

IMPLEMENTS FOR DRAWING PATTERNS

To draw basic patterns it is required to know about drawing equipment, the decimal metric
system, basic geometry and symbology.
1. Rules

2. Basic geometry

3. metric system
The meter: it is an essential instrument for taking measurements. There are meters of fabric and
plastic, the latter being more recommended, the markings come in centimeters and each centimeter is
divided into 10 lines called millimeters.
One meter is 100cm, but the tape that we use in clothing is 150cm. That is, 1.5 meters.
This is why its name is not the meter but the tape measure.
Each centimeter has 10 millimeters. These millimeters are divided on the tape measure with a larger line that
marks half the centimeter. Look at the drawing.

' 1 ' 1 1 1 ' 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 ' |HH' 1 '!• 1'1 ......... •'T''T.................

1 ' 1 ■ 1 1 1 '• 'I'] ITEM
3 4 5 6
1 2 l
1.25cm
2.50cm
4.75cm

Way to take measurements

\ 1
1. Vertex-floor height
I •2j /
2. Chest contour 86
3. Waist circumference —tLtog4-—2—--—n-

)" TO
4. Hip contour

5. Hip lowering
A _3 ) ' : ft I v)
6. Shoulder length

7. chest width
)/(

/
8. Front waist length

9. Arm/sleeve length, If long sleeve folded

arm.

10. Arm/sleeve girth

/
Size: it is the standardized expression that allows people to be identified for the use of clothing.

SIZE CHART
measures 2 4 6 8 10 12
Chest contour 60 64 68 72 76 80
Waist Contour 48 52 56 60 64 68
Hip Contour 60 64 68 72 76 80
Back width 23.5 25 26.5 28 29.5 31
Clamp location 6.5 6.75 7 7.25 7.5 7.75
Waist 25.75 27.5 29.75 32 34.25 36.5
shoulder length 8.5 9 9.5 10 10.5 11
Long robe (skirt) 36 42 48 54 60 66
Sleeve length (elbow) 18 19 20 21 22 23
shoulder drop 3 3 3 3 3 3
fist 17 18 19 20 21 22
Long sleeved 36 39 42 45 46,5 48
Long shirt-blouse 49 53 57 61 65 69
pants length 49 56 63 70 77 84
Trouser clip length 4 4,5 4,5 5 5 5,5
Short (from shot) 6 6,5 6,5 7 7 8
 Conventions for identifying patterns
Symbol Name Description Use

cloth thread Straight line terminated with It tells us the position of the pattern with
arrows at both ends. respect to the fabric thread, it goes parallel
- to the warp thread.
Bias cut. Diagonal straight line terminated Indicates the 45º inclination of the pattern on
AND with arrows at both ends. the fabric.

fabric doubles Indicates the position of one side of the

Three small circles arranged in the pattern that should be on the double or
shape of a triangle. spine of the fabric.
Cutting line Scissors. It is placed on the line where it should
3<
make the cut
Pickets T-shaped straight line It is traced over the cut line to accurately fill
•
seams.
It is an X of the size of the button Indicates the size and position of buttons.
x Button Location
to use.
Location of It is a segment delimited by the Indicates the position and size of the
1—1 buttonhole width of the buttonhole. buttonhole.
wmmm Stitching: Indicates the finishing line. Indicates where the seam goes.
They are internal perforations. They serve as a guide for the location of
* internal parts such as pockets, buttons,
Internal points: buttonholes, among others.

Back Base Pattern

Make a rectangle ABCD, such that:
AB: 1/4 of the chest circumference.
AC: waist length.
Each of the sides will be identified so that:
AB: shoulder and neckline.
BD: center back line.
AC: side and armhole.
CD: waist line.
Forward Base Pattern

COAT
Mark the complete base pattern, then mark the length of the desired gown or
according to the size chart, in the hem of the gown increase the length of the skirt by
6 to 12, make reliefs in the neck, shoulder and armhole according to the model.
The pattern comes out seamless.
SLEEVE

Draw a vertical line with the length of the sleeve,

from the vertex mark 10 cm downwards, the height
of the sleeve head and square by drawing a
horizontal line.
From the vertex, mark the width of the sleeve with
half the armhole contour, marking it diagonally on
the horizontal line, from the vertex, mark 3cm and
join with a straight line until the diagonal mark.
Divide the diagonal line in half, then divide each
half in half, the upper measurement go up squaring
1cm and the lower measurement squaring down
1cm, join the head of the sleeve with curves as
shown in the drawing.
On the cuff mark the middle of the cuff and join
with a straight line.

To make the piped sleeve, the cuff measurement is

checked and divided in two, and the width of the
cuff is marked starting in the middle of the sleeve
on both sides according to the size, then joined
with a straight line.

SLEEVE WITH COLLECTION IN CUP

Mark tubed sleeve base

Divide armhole depth line into 4 equal parts
Divide the fist line into 4 equal parts
Join the dividing points together
Trace the sleeve with its dividing lines and cut
without detaching the cuff
Draw a vertical guide line determining a new ½
sleeve and fabric thread that will guide me when
cutting.
Mark on both sides of the top 2 cm.
SLEEVE WITH GATHERED IN CUP AND CUFF

SHORT SLEEVE WITH PATTERN

Mark straight sleeve base with 16 cm. long or

according to the desired size or
measurement chart.
Divide fist line into 6 equal parts.
Square dividing points up to the sleeve cap.
Trace the sleeve with its dividing lines and
cut out completely. Give width in each of the
openings of 4 cm.
Raise the sleeve cup 3 cm. Rectify sleeve
cup curve.
From the cuff line down 5 cm. Correct the
bottom of the sleeve with a curve.

ONE-SIZED SHIRT COLLAR

Draw right angle, A vertex angle AB to the

right ½ back neck BC to the right ½ front
neck Square up
CD up 1cm JK up the extended line 1.5 Join with
OF up 2.5cm and join with a gentle curve KH to B.
side curve to DG back picket to the right 1.5
EG button crossing join with AF curve,
upwards 3.5cm
FH up 4.5cm and square
IJ to the right 1.5cm, join with straight line EJ
and extend
PETER PAN NECK

Mark front and back blouse bases joined at the

shoulder, matching neck to neck.
A= Center front neck.
A - B = 6 cm.
C = Neck shoulder.
D = Center back neck.
D - E = 6 cm.
Join curves parallel B - E to the neck curve.
B - F = 2 cm along the curved line of the neck.
Join straight AF.

HIGH PETER PAN NECK

Mark front and back blouse base joined at the

shoulder.
Matching neck to neck.
A = Shoulder armhole.
A - B = 1 ½cms.
Trace the back again, placing the shoulder
armhole on B and develop the neck on the new
base.

SAILOR NECK

Mark front base and back joined by the shoulder

line
A = Center front neck
A - B = 10 cm
C = Neck shoulder
D = Center back neck
D - E = 16 cm
Squad E
E - F = 14 cm
Square F guide line to trace the neck
Join with line C - B
Join B to line F with a curve.
SKIRTS

SKIRT WITH GATHERING

For the skirt with gathering, simply cut the width of the fabric for sizes 6,8, 10, 12,
which means that the width of the fabric is 1.50.
For sizes 2, 1m width is cut from the fabric and 4, 1.20cm width is cut from the fabric.
Skirt width

A-LINE SKIRT
Draw right angle
A = Vertex of the angle.
A - B = Skirt length (46 cm.+3=49).
A - C = ½ waist circumference plus 1
cm. sewing. (15+1=16).
Square point B.
B – D = ½ waist circumference minus 2
cm.
DE = BD. Square point E.
Form a 90° angle by placing the square
over points C and D touching line E.
Join these points on a straight line
determining point F.
F - G = 46 cm.
Join in curve G – A.
For the back part, the same procedure
is carried out, only 2 cm are marked in
A and B. counterclockwise for zipper
extension.
WAISTBAND
Draw a rectangle with the waist
circumference measurement plus 2 cm.
for crossing and 2 cm. for button by 6
cm. Wide.
NOTE: The skirt comes out with seams.
ROTUNDA SKIRT

Right angle.
To vertex of Angle.
A – B and AC Waist measurement - 2 ½ cm
divided by 6.
(60 - 2 ½= 57.5 / 6 = 9.5).
A- D and AE Take the measurement (54)
and transfer it along horizontal and
vertical guide lines.
Then that measurement is marked
perpendicularly, forming the circumference of
the skirt.

SKIRT WITH FOLLOWED PRESSES

Mark skirt base.

Divide waist and hem into 3 equal parts.
Trace each piece.
Give depth of the desired press.
Trace second piece press depth.
Fold, trace third piece, give depth of press.
This for consecutive presses.
For flat presses they are left. 1.
PANTS

Forward:
Draw right angle
To vertex of the angle
AB pants length
AC ¼ hip = 18
CD ¼ waist + 2 clips = 17
DE rise 0.5cm and join waist
AF down ¼ hip=18
FG up 5.5
H center front union
HI clockwise 3.5
J ½ of FI = 10.75 line of plumb
K half FB= 25
KL up 3m knee line
N line union roll with shot
NN´ to the left 2cm
MM´ to the left 2cm and join with a straight
line
LL´ to the right 2cm
BB´ to the right 2cm and join with a straight
line
Join the inseam and the crotches with a
curve.

Back:
With the front H1 to the left 1cm
3 enter from C 3cm to the left or half of C2
4 joining line extend 2.5cm Square E to
the left and mark waist 17 cm + 2cm clamp
6 mid-waist, mark 1cm on each side and
5cm long clip
7 union 6 and line 1-4
7-8 to the left ¼ hip + 2cm =
20
Square 8 determining 9
I10 to the right 4.5 back throw
10-11 down 0.5cm
Join the shot with a straight line and the
crotch with a curve with M
Join curve 9L and the shot
Model development or industrialization

The modification of basic patterns is called Industrialization . This modification

consists of giving the different patterns the necessary clearances to transform
them into shirts, dresses, jackets, etc.

Button crossing

Button crossing varies depending on the size

of the button, but is generally 1.5cm from
center front plus 2cm of faux plus 1cm of
seam for a total of 4.5cm.
Almilla or yoke
Pockets

AB Enter 3 cm
AC Lower 12 cm
CD Lower 5 cm
DE Enter 1 or 1.5cm
EF Lower 6 cm
FG Enter 8 cm
The flat weave Join BC with inclined line.
Trace the pocket by placing the corresponding notches
Types of fabrics

Fabric is a structure made up of textile fibers. This

structure can be achieved in three different ways that, in
some way, divide the work procedures. Get to know each
one of them:

It is carried out on a machine called a loom and consists of

interlacing two threads at a right angle. Let's say it's like
when in primary school the teacher made us bring ice
cream sticks and we made a little board by interspersing
perpendicular sticks, one above, one below, one above,
one below. One of the threads is the warp and the other is
the weft.
The flat weave can be worked in the thread, across or on the bias.
The weaves used to make flat weave are the ones that give rise to
the different Twill fabrics: such as drills and gabardines for pants,
Bermuda shorts and shorts.
Taffeta: such as dacron, etamines, poplins, plaids, printed piqués,
veils, chiffon, etc.
Satin: like satin for elegant dresses.
Knitting It is formed by meshes, loops or points. It consists of passing a
loop of thread over a needle and then passing it to another needle.
The clearest case to understand is the two-needle knitting that the
grandmother makes, in which the same thread is intertwined
forming a single structure. It is important to understand that in this
type of fabric there is a single, very long thread.
The basic ligaments of knitting are: Jersey, flannel, brushed
flannel, rib, interlock and pique. Knitted fabrics are difficult to
handle, they slip when cut and they stretch easily, but they adapt
very well to the body.

By agglutination of fibers

They are fabrics that are made with wool or animal hair fibers that
have not gone through spinning processes and that are moistened
and subjected to pressure and heat which causes the fibers to
adhere.
It's like when we grab lint from a blanket and while watching TV we
knead it for a long time, and in the end we realize that it has
transformed into a structure. An example of this process is interlon
and felt, among others.

For children's garments, the most used fabrics are knitted fabrics with a high
percentage of natural fibers, providing good drape, freshness and various colors. Most
dresses are lined and pleated or seam-stitched.

CUTTING PROCESS
What is the cut ?
Cutting is the separation of the fabric or leather into different pieces, which
together make up a piece of clothing or footwear. Tools :
fabric scissors

—d
Fabric scissors, as their name indicates, are for
cutting fabric only and exclusively, since, if we use
them to cut other types of materials, we damage the
edge of the blades. It is also recommended not to
drop them as they become misaligned and they — W.J. TO
start to fail.
2. Pins
either
or M,ees k0
09 m ¿y ,P

It is recommended that the pins have a large and

pointed head; if the pins have a flat or split tip, they
m

can break the fabric in which we are pricking them.

3. Chalk for clothing

Chalk is used to mark patterns and signs on the
fabric. d
 PROCESS:

1. EXPAND FABRICS :

It involves stretching or spreading one or several pieces of fabric on a

table of appropriate dimensions, cutting them to the
corresponding length according to the marking
previously studied. The marking is always a
rectangle with a short side equal to the width of the
fabric and the long side the corresponding one once
the patterns are distributed on top.

The tables used have a height of 80 to 90 cm. a

width of 30 to 40 cm. more than the maximum width
of the fabric to be extended and a variable length
depending on the length of the markings usually
used, normally ranging between 6 and 25 m.

2. MARKED

The marking or drawing of the profile of the patterns according to the

dimensional characteristics of the
fabric to be used, it can be done directly on the fabric (a sheet of fabric) or
on paper. If it is done on fabric, it is always marked on the wrong side of
the fabric and on the fabric thread.

3. DESTROY OR CUT

The effect of cutting the set of mattress fabrics en masse without great
precision is called destroying, that is, without following the drawn profiles
of the patterns throughout the entire route. They are usually used when
cutting layers of fabrics, destroying them with the cutter. .
When cutting a single garment, scissors are used to carry out this
process quickly.
At this time, a review of the cut pieces is carried out to detect defects
and identify the pieces in order to move on to the garment making
process.