FOR TECHNICIAN USE ONLY

A WARNING A WARNING

Risk of electric shock Risk of electric shock

Only authorized technicians should Disconnect power before servicing.
perform diagnostic voltage measurements. Replace all parts and panels before
After performing voltage measurements, operating.
disconnect power before servicing. Failure to follow these instructions may
Failure to follow these instructions may result in death or electrical shock.
result in death or electrical shock.

Voltage Measurement Safety Information

When performing live line voltage measurements, you should do the following:
■ Verify that the controls are in the off position so that the appliance does not turn on while energized.
■ Allow enough space to perform voltage measurement without obstructions.
■ Keep people around you at a safe distance from the appliance to prevent possible accidents.
■ Always use proper test equipment.
■ After voltage measurements, always disconnect power before servicing.

IMPORTANT: Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) on delicate electronics

ESD problems can occur anywhere. Most people start to feel an electrostatic discharge at about
3000 V. It takes as little as 10V to destroy, damage or weaken the main control assembly.
The new control assembly may appear to be working correctly after the repair is made, but a
failure may occur at a later date due to stress from electrostatic charges.

■ Use an antistatic wrist strap. Connect the wrist strap to ground or unpainted metal part on
the appliance,
- EITHER -
Repeatedly touch the ground or unpainted metal part of the appliance with your finger.
■ Before removing the part from the package, touch the antistatic bag to ground or unpainted
metal part on the appliance.
■ Avoid touching electrical parts or terminal contacts; handle electronic components only by
the edges.
■ When packing the main control in an anti-static bag, follow the instructions shown
previously.

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTICE – “For Technicians Only”

This information sheet is designed for use by people who have electrical, electronic and
mechanical experience as well as general knowledge in the area of appliance repair. Any
attempt to repair an appliance may result in personal injury and property damage. The
manufacturer or seller cannot be responsible, assumes no liability for damages of any kind that
occur from the use of this sheet.
Index
Diagnostic Guide 2 Troubleshooting Guide 10,11
Service Diagnostic Test Modes 2 Troubleshooting Tests 12
Activating Service Diagnostic Modes 2 Main Control Connectors and connector 12
Faults / Error codes 6,7Component Location 19
Automatic Tests 8 Specifications 19
Manual Tests 9 Wiring diagrams 20,21

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DIAGNOSIS GUIDE NOTE: AFTER RESET , the sequence “a” to “e”

should be completed within 6 seconds.
Before servicing, verify the following:
■ Make sure there is electrical current in the outlet. RESET – Turn the cycle selector knob
counterclockwise to clear the sequence.
■ Has a fuse blown or a circuit breaker tripped? Was a
normal fuse used? Use a time delay fuse.
■ Are both the cold and hot water faucets open and are
there no obstructions?
■ All tests-checks should be performed with a standard or to. Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise
digital voltmeter with a sensitivity of 20,000 Ω per volt or one click and wait ½ second.
greater.
IMPORTANT: Avoid using very large diameter probes
when checking harness connectors as the probes can damage
the connectors when inserted. ■ Check all connections before
replacing components. Look for loose or damaged wires, b. Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise
damaged terminals, or cables that are not fully connected. one click and wait ½ second.
Connectors: See top of connector. Check for damaged or
loose cables. Check if there are cables that are not pressed all
the way in and cannot make contact with the metal tab.
■ One potential cause of a control not working is corrosion
in the connections. Observe the connections and check
for continuity with an ohmmeter. c. Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise
one click and wait ½ second.

DIAGNOSTIC LIGHT – MAIN CONTROL the processor is operating.

A troubleshooting tool has been implemented on the main LIGHT OFF – Control failure. Take TEST #1:
control board – a diagnostic light. d. Turn the cycle selector knob
LIGHT ON – The control is detecting a correct voltage input and counterclockwise one click and wait ½
second.
Main Control, page 12, to verify the functionality of the e. Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise one
main control. click.

> Successful activation of this test mode will be

indicated by all status lights (except the lock light)
flashing on and off at half-second intervals.
NOTE: Light names may vary between models. Legend:
CD = ON CD = OFF
ACTIVATION OF SERVICE DIAGNOSTIC MODES

DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODES

SERVICE
These tests allow service or factory personnel to test and verify
all inputs to the main control board. You may want to do a quick 0.5 Seconds OFF
check of the washer with these tests before going to the specific
troubleshooting tests. Figure 2 – Successful activation of Test mode
1. Make sure the washer is not running a cycle at the time
(plugged in with all indicators off).
2. Perform the following sequence of steps using the cycle
selector knob.
> If the status lights do not display as described above, the
sequence may not have completed within 6 seconds.
Repeat step 2 to make sure this was not the cause. If you
still don't succeed, see Entry Failed, page 3.

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3. There are many Diagnostic Test Modes accessible in the The status light flashes on and off.
following table. To select the desired operating mode, 1. To view the last 4 fault codes:
rotate the selector knob until the status light matches the > Turn the cycle selector knob clockwise to view the fault
mode you wish to enter. codes in order from newest to oldest. (See Fault/Error
tables on pages 6 and 7.)
DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODES NOTE: An error/fault code will be removed from memory if
MODE STATUS LIGHTS it does not reoccur after 10 consecutive cycles.
2. To clear fault codes:
> Turn the cycle selector knob until the indicator light
(Status light names may vary between

CENTRIFU

FINISHED
applicable status:

WASHED
models)

RINSE

GADO
FILL

Fault code mode Enc.

Auto test mode Enc. > Press and hold the START button for 3 seconds to
Manual test mode Enc. Enc. clear all fault codes and exit Service Diagnostic Mode.
Calibration mode Enc.
Test Demo Mode Enc. Enc.
UI testing mode Enc. Enc. Fault/Error Code Display Method
SW version deployment mode Enc. Enc. Enc. Fault/error codes are displayed by alternating status lights at
Factory diagnostic mode Enc. one-second intervals. All fault/error codes have an F# and an E#
Tachometer check mode Enc. Enc. indicating the “System component where the fault is located”.
4. Press the START button to capture the desired operating * If the Fill light is ON , the fault number is represented; if it is
mode. OFF , the Error number is represented (see example below).
See the following pages for detailed information on each mode The remaining lights (Wash, Rinse, Spin, and Finish) represent
of operation: the fault and error code. (See fault/error tables on pages 6 and 7
for more information.)
■ MODEOF FAULT CODE: Page 3
■ MODEOF SELF TEST: Page 4
■ MODEOF MANUAL TEST: Page 4 FAULT NUMBERS ERROR NUMBERS
■ MODEOF CALIBRATION: Page 4 NOTE: Light names will vary between models.
■ SALES DEMO MODE: NOT FOR SERVICE* AUTOMATIC TEST MODE (Page 8)
■ UI TESTING MODE: Page 4 To access the Automatic Test mode, perform steps 1 and 2 of
■ SW VERSION DEPLOYMENT MODE: Page 5 the Service Diagnostic Modes. Turn the cycle selector knob until
■ FACTORY DIAGNOSTIC MODE: NOT FOR SERVICE* the status light corresponds:
■ TACHOMETER CHECK MODE: Page 5 ■ “Spin” light on
* Press and hold START for 3 seconds to exit.

Failed Entry
If you cannot enter diagnostic mode, see the following indication
and action: Press the START button to begin the self-test. See page 8 to
Indication: None of the lights come on. order an automatic test.
Action: Press the POWER button to enter setup mode. ■ Once you have entered test mode
> If the indicators come on, repeat steps 1 through 4 of automatic, the washer will do an automatic test with water
Diagnostic Service Activation Modes. cycles to verify the main functions.
NOTE: Rotating the knob too fast or too slow affects this.
> If no indicator lights after pressing the POWER button, go to
■ Press the START button to automatically advance to the
next level.
TEST #1, page 12.
Status lights Status lights
EXIT SERVICE DIAGNOSTIC MODE
Press and hold the START button for 3 seconds at any time to
exit diagnostic modes.
The washer will exit diagnostic modes after 5 minutes of
inactivity or upon unplugging the power cord.

FAULT CODE DISPLAY MODE (Page. 6-7)

Y A
To access the fault/error codes, perform steps 1 and 2 of the e8 4 A N8 4
Service Diagnostic Activation Modes. Turn the selector knob F2 N E2
until the lights are as follows:
■ “Done” light on ■ Press and hold the START button for 3 seconds at any time
to exit Auto Test mode.
NOTE: Lid must be closed with lid lock engaged to perform test

MANUAL TEST MODE (Page 9)

Press the START button to enter the Fault Code Display mode. To access Manual Test Mode, perform steps 1 and 2 of the

PART NO. W10280489A PAGE 3

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Service Diagnostic Activation mode. Turn the cycle selector

knob until the light looks like this:
■ “Spin & Done” light on

Press the START button to enter Manual Test Mode. See page
9 for manual test mode.
■ Once you enter manual test mode, the washer will turn
OFF all outlets.
■ The selector knob is used to select the output to be tested.
■ The START button will activate/deactivate the selected
output.
■ When the selected output is activated, the corresponding
lights will flash.
■ Press and hold the START button for 3 seconds at any time
to Exit Manual Test mode.
To access Calibration mode, perform steps 1 and 2 of the
Service Diagnostic Activation mode. Turn the cycle selector
knob until the light looks like this:
■ “Rinse” light on

Press the START button to begin calibrating the washer. All the
lights will turn on.
■ DO NOT interrupt the calibration, interrupt the washing
machine or turn off the power; Otherwise, the calibration will
have to be repeated.
■ The lid must be closed to perform the test.
■ The basket must be empty to perform the test (without
water or clothes).
■ The calibration cycle runs for approximately 2-4 minutes.
The cycle ends when the door is unlocked and the washer
enters sleep mode.

UI TEST MODE
To access UI Test Mode, perform steps 1 and 2 of the Service
Diagnostic Activation mode. Turn the cycle selector knob until
the light looks like this:
■ “Rinse & Spin” light on

(1)F¡II (2)Wash (3)Rinse (4)Spin Epone

NOTE: Status light names may vary between models. Use the #
identifications of the lights. Press the START button to begin the
UI test.
■ Once you enter UI test mode, all status lights will turn on.
■ Pressing the START button will turn all status lights on and
off, or may change the light independently. (Example: if
there are 2 on, and 3 are off, then 2 lights will turn off and 3
will turn on.)
■ When you turn the cycle selector knob, each click indicates
the “Done” light (5).

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IMPORTANT: As a safety precaution, the lid must be closed with the lock activated to allow either the Shake or Spin test.
NOTE: Multiple outputs can be activated simultaneously. NOTE: Outlets left on will turn off in 5 minutes.

CALIBRATION MODE
IMPORTANT: Calibration must be performed when any of the following components have been replaced: Main Control, Basket, Axle
Mount, Suspension, Motor and Capacitor. Failure to calibrate will result in poor washing performance.

PART NO. W10280489A PAGE 5

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■ Turning the rotary switches changes the status of the TACHOMETER CHECK MODE
following lights from on to off. To enter the Tachometer check mode, perform steps 1 and 2 of
• switch rotary #1 – changes(1)LIGHT Fill the Service Diagnostic Activation mode. Turn the cycle selector
• switch rotary #2 – changes(2)LIGHT Washed knob until the light looks like this:
• switch rotary #3 – changes(3)LIGHT Rinse
• switch
Centrifuged
rotary #4 – changes(1)LIGHT
■ “Wash and Done” light on

NOTE: The number and location of rotary switches varies

between models. Fill Wash Rinse Spin Done
The switches are read from left to right (not counting the
NOTE: Status light names may vary between models.
pressure switch), the leftmost switch is #1.
■ Press and hold the START button for 3 seconds to exit UI
test mode.
Press START to begin tachometer check mode.
■ The washer will exit UI test mode after 5 minutes of
inactivity or when you unplug the power cord.
■ The tachometer check uses the status lights to represent
the tachometer frequency (RPM basket). For example,
slowly turn the basket by hand; As the basket rotates, the
SOFTWARE VERSION DEPLOYMENT MODE DONE, SPIN, RINSE, and WASH lights will illuminate one
To access Software Version Deployment mode, perform steps at a time in a visually repeating cycle. The timing of the
1 and 2 of Service Diagnostic Activation mode. Turn the cycle lights is derived from the signals from the tachometer
selector knob until the light looks like this: itself.
■ Rinse, Spin & Done Light ■ Press and hold the START button for 3 seconds at any
time to exit tachometer check mode.

lit FAULT CODES VISIBLE TO THE CUSTOMER

There are 3 fault codes that can be seen by the customer
indicated with the status lights:
■ WASH LIGHT ON (Long Fill Failure) – See “Won't Fill,
NOTE: Status light names may vary between models. Takes Too Long” on page 7 for more information.
Press the START button to begin software deployment mode. ■ SPIN LIGHT ON (Long Drain Fault) – See “Drain Takes
■ Once you enter software deployment mode, the major, Too Long” on page 7 for more information.
minor, and test version numbers are displayed and the ■ LOCK LIGHT FLASHING CONTINUOUSLY (Lid Lock
LEDs alternate in one-second intervals; the process Failure) – See “Lid Lock Failure” on page 6 for more
repeats after a pause. information.
For example, if the s/w version is 02.01.07, the following
sequence will be displayed: FOR SERVICE FAULTS AND ERROR CODES,
CONTINUE TO PAGES 6 AND 7

■ Press and hold the START button for 3 seconds to exit software version deployment mode.

PART NO. W10280489A PAGE 6

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FAULT/ERROR CODES (continued) – See page 3 to access the Fault Code Display Mode.
DESCRIPTION FAULT NUMBERS ERROR NUMBERS
Status lights Status lights

CENTRIFUGED

CENTRIFUGED
Explanation and Recommended Procedure

FINISHED

FINISHED
WASHED

WASHED
RINSE

RINSE
FILL*

FILL*
(F0E0) DOES NOT FAIL Enc. 8 4 2 1 Off 8 4 2 1
(F0E2) EXCESS FOAM CONDITION DETECTED 2

The fault is displayed when the foam does not allow the basket to rotate at the proper speed or the pressure sensor detects an increase in the foam
level. The main control will release water to try to reduce foam. If running water cannot correct the problem, this may indicate that:
• You are not using HE detergent.
• Excessive use of detergent.
• Check the connection of the tub pressure hose to the pressure sensor. Is the hose kinked, battered, or leaking air?
• Mechanical friction in the shaft or basket mechanism. (Clothes between the basket and the tub.)
(F0E4) HIGH WATER TEMPERATURE – RINSE CYCLE 1 1 4
The fault is displayed when the washer detects a water temperature of 105° or higher during the rinse cycle.
• The hot water is coming in. Make sure the inlet hoses are connected correctly.
• If the hoses are installed correctly, the temperature thermistor may be stuck at a low resistance value.
•(F0E5)
See TEST #5: Temperature Thermistor, page 16.
IMBALANCE DETECTED 1 1 4 1
The fault is displayed when an unbalance condition is detected.
• Check if the suspension is weak. The basket should not bounce up and down more than once when you push it.
• Clothes should be distributed evenly when loading clothes.
(F1E1) MAIN CONTROL FAILURE 1 11 1 1
Indicates a failure in the main control.
• See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.
(F1E2) ENGINE CONTROL FAULT 1 11 1 2

Indicates a fault in the engine control section of the main control. • See TEST #3b: Axle System – Motor, page 14.
(F2E1) STUCK KEY 1 2 1 1
One or more user interface keys are pressed for 15 consecutive seconds.
• The failure occurs during Diagnostic Test Mode if a stuck key is detected.
• See TEST #4: Consoles and Indicators, page 16.
(F2E3) MAIN CONTROL AND UI DE-SYNC 1 2 1 2 1
The UI ID does not match the expected value in the Main Control panel.
• The failure occurs during Diagnostic Test Mode if there is a desynchronization of the main control and the UI is identified.
• See TEST #4: Consoles and Indicators, page 16.
(F3E1) PRESSURE SENSOR FAILURE 1 2 11 1 1
The fault is displayed when the Main control detects a pressure signal out of range.
• Check the connection of the tub pressure hose to the pressure sensor. Is the hose kinked, kinked or leaking air?
• See TEST #6: Water Level, page 17.
(F3E2) INLET WATER TEMPERATURE FAULT 1 2 11 1 2

The fault is displayed when the input thermistor is detected open or shorted. • See TEST #5: Temperature Thermistor, page 16.
(F5E1) LID SWITCH FAILURE 1 4 11 1 1
The fault is displayed if the lid switch has not been detected after multiple wash cycles.
• The user presses START with the lid open.
• The main control cannot detect the lid switch open or closed.
•(F5E2)
See TEST #8: Lid Lock, page 18.
LID LOCK FAILURE 1 4 11 1 2
The fault is displayed if the lid lock has not been moved to the locked position or the engine cannot be started.
• Lid is not closing completely due to interference.
• Check the interference on the cover with the lock.
• Accumulations of washing materials (detergent, lint, etc.) no allows helocking mechanism from sliding.
• The main control detects the switch from the lid open to attempt block.
• The main control cannot determine If the lid lock is in a state of blocking.
* If the Fill light is ON, the fault code is displayed; if OFF, the code number is represented.

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FAULT/ERROR CODES (continued) – See page 3 to access the Fault Code Display Mode.
DESCRIPTION FAULT NUMBERS ERROR NUMBERS
Status lights Status lights

CENTRIFUGED

CENTRIFUGED
Explanation and Recommended Procedure

FINISHED

FINISHED
WASHED

WASHED
RINSE

RINSE
FILL*

FILL*
(F5E3) LID UNLOCK FAILURE Enc. 8 4 2 1 Off 8 4 2 1
The fault is displayed if the lid lock has not been moved to the unlocked position or the engine cannot be started.
• Check the interference between the cover and the sheet metal.
• The main control cannot determine whether the lid lock is in an unlock state.
•(F5E4)
See TEST #8: Lid Lock, page 18.
LID DOES NOT OPEN DURING CYCLES 1 4 11 1 4
The fault is displayed if the following conditions occur:
• The user presses START after many consecutive wash cycles without opening the lid.
• See TEST #8: Lid Lock, page 18.
(F7E1) BASKET SPEED SENSOR FAILURE 1 4 2 11 1 1
The fault is displayed when the main control cannot determine the speed of the basket.
• Locked rotor – check that the basket, propeller and motor can rotate freely.
• Check the main control connection harness to the engine and shifter.
•(F7E5)
See TEST #3a: Axle System - Shifter, page 13.
CHANGER FAILURE 1 4 2 11 1 4 1
The fault is displayed when the main control cannot determine the position of the shifter.
• Check the connection harness from the main control to the engine and shifter.
• Observe the operation of the changer
•(F7E6)
See TEST #3a: Engine-Shifter System, page 13.
ENGINE FAILURE 4 2 4 2
1 11 1

Indicates an open motor circuit in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction. • See TEST #3b: Axle System – Motor, page 14.
(F7E7) ENGINE CANNOT REACH TARGET RPM 1 4 2 11 1 4 2 1
The fault is displayed when the sensor detects that the basket speed is not reaching the target RPM.
• Mechanical friction in the shaft or basket mechanism (clothes between basket and tub).
• Weak motor or capacitor, or no connection to the capacitor.
• Imbalance. Laundry should be evenly distributed when loading.
•(F8E1)
See TEST #3b: Axle System – Motor, page 14.
IT IS NOT FILLED, IT TAKES A LONG TIME 1 8 1 1
The fault is displayed when the water level does not change for a long period or water is present but the main control does not detect that the water level
changes.
• Is the water supply connected?
• Low water pressure; Fill times are more than six minutes. Are the hose filters connected?
• Check if the drain installation is correct. Is water siphoning out of the drain hose?
• The drain hose should not be inserted more than 4.5” (113 mm) into the drain pipe.
• Check the connection of the tub pressure hose to the pressure sensor. Is the hose kinked, kinked or leaking air?
• See TEST #2: Valves, page 13.
(F8E3) OVERLOAD CONDITION 1 8 1 2 1
The fault is displayed when the Main control detects a water level that exceeds the capacity of the washer.
• It may mean a problem with the water inlet valves.
• Check the connection of the tub pressure hose to the pressure sensor. Is the hose kinked, kinked or leaking air?
• There is a fault in the onboard pressure transducer or pressure switch (depending on model).
•(F8E5)
See TEST #2: Valves, page 13 and TEST #6: Water Level, page 17.
HOT, COLD INVERTED 1 8 1 4 1
The fault is displayed when the hot and cold water hoses are reversed.
• Make sure the inlet hoses are connected correctly.
• If the hoses are installed correctly, the temperature thermistor may be stuck in a low resistance range.
•(F9E1)
See TEST #2: Valves, page 13 and TEST #5: Temperature Thermistor, page 16.
DRAINING TAKES A LONG TIME 1 8 11 1 1
The fault is displayed when the water level does not change after the drain pump has been on for 10 minutes.
• Is the drain hose or drain pump clogged? Check the tub drain under the propeller for obstructions.
• Is the drain hose higher than 96”?
• Check the connection of the tub pressure hose to the pressure sensor. Is the hose kinked, kinked or leaking air?
* If• the Is
Fillthe pump
light working?
is ON, If not,
the fault codeSee TEST #7: ifDrain
is displayed; OFF,Pump, page
the code 17. is represented.
number

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AUTOMATIC TEST MODE – See page 4 to access Automatic Test Mode

Press the START button to begin the Self Test. NOTE: The lid must be closed with the lid locked to perform the self-test.

FUNCTION STATUS LIGHTS EST TIME

CENTRIFUGED
Recommended procedure In seconds

BLOCK OF
FINISHED
WASHED

RINSE

TOP
FILL
THE LID WILL UNLOCK Enc. Enc. 1
The engine must be at 0 RPM. If the lid does not lock, see Manual Test: Lid Lock, page 9.

THE COLD WATER VALVE WILL ACT Enc. 1 Enc. 5

If water is not present, or the temperature is incorrect, see Manual Test: Cold water valve, page 9.

THE HOT WATER VALVE WILL ACT Enc. Enc. Enc. 5

If water is not present, or the temperature is incorrect, see Manual Test: Hot water valve, page 9.

RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT Enc. 1 Enc. 5

The washer will pause for 5 seconds.

RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT Enc. 1 Enc. Enc. 5

The washer will pause for 5 seconds.

RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT Enc. 1 Enc. 1 Enc. Enc. 5

The washer will pause for 5 seconds.

THE HOT AND COLD WATER VALVES WILL ACT Enc. 1 Enc. 1 Enc. Enc. 45
The hot and cold water valves will operate for the specified period of time.

THE CHANGER MOVES TO THE AGITATION POSITION Enc. 1 Enc. ~5-15

If the motor does not shake, see Manual Test: Gentle or Strong Shaking, page 9.

THE ENGINE SHAKES Enc. 1 Enc. Enc. 10

If the motor does not shake, see Manual Test: Gentle or Strong Shaking, page 9.

THE DRAIN PUMP WILL ACT Enc. 1 Enc. 1 Enc. ~30-40

If water is not draining, see Manual Test: Draining, page 9.

THE CHANGER MOVES TO THE SPIN POSITION Enc. 1 Enc. 1 Enc. Enc. ~5-15
If the basket does not spin, see Manual Test: High or Low Spin, page 9.

MOTOR ROTATION Enc. 1 Enc. 1 Enc. 10

If the motor does not shake, see Manual Test: Gentle or Strong Shaking, page 9.

THE LID REMAINS LOCKED UNTIL THE WASHER DETECTS THAT THE
Enc. Enc. Enc. Enc. ~30-40
BASKET IS STATIC
The basket must stop rotating (0 RPM) before the test continues to the next phase. The time for the basket to stop spinning can vary between 30 seconds
and up to 2 minutes.
THE LID WILL UNLOCK AND THE CYCLE IS COMPLETE Enc. Enc. Enc. 1
~3 min
If the lid does not unlock, see Manual Test: Lid Locked, page 9. If there is no end of cycle tone, make sure the Signal is on.

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MANUAL TEST MODE – See page 4 to access Manual Test Mode

Press the START button to activate/deactivate each output. When the output is activated, the corresponding status lights will
flash. NOTE: The lid must be closed with the lid locked to perform the SPIN tests.
EXIT STATUS LIGHTS

CENTRIFUGED
Departure details

BLOCK OF
NOTE: Departures will expire after 5 minutes.

FINISHED
WASHED

RINSE

TOP
FILL
LOCKED LID

Lock and unlock the lid. NOTES: When the lock is activated, the “Lid Lock” light turns ON. It will only lock when the lid is closed. It will only unlock when
the basket is at 0 RPM. If the lid is not closed, the washer will beep and the lights will flash.
• If the lid does not lock or unlock, see TEST #8: Lid Lock, page 18.
COLD VALVE Enc.
Turns the cold water valve on and off.
• If the valve does not open, see TEST #2: Valves, page 13.
HOT VALVE Enc.
Turns the hot water valve on and off.
• If the valve does not open, see TEST #2: Valves, page 13.
RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT Enc. Enc.
If selected, the washer will beep and the lights will flash.
RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT Enc.
If selected, the washer will beep and the lights will flash.
RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT Enc. Enc.
If selected, the washer will beep and the lights will flash.
RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT Enc. Enc.
If selected, the washer will beep and the lights will flash.
DRAINED Enc. Enc. Enc.
Turns the drain pump on and off.
• If the pump does not turn on, see TEST #7: Drain Pump, page 17.
RESERVED FOR FUTURE DEVELOPMENT Enc.
If selected, the washer will beep and the lights will flash.
SLOW SPIN Enc. Enc. Enc.
Allow up to 15 seconds for the changer to reset. Basket rotation goes from 0 to 500 RPM.
IMPORTANT: The water in the tub must be drained before testing. IMPORTANT: To activate slow spin, the RPM reading must be “0” and the lid must
be closed with the lock activated. If the lid is not closed, the washer will make a sound and the lights will flash.
• If the motor does not rotate, see TEST #3a & 3b: Shaft System (Shifter and Motor), pages 13 and 14.
FAST SPIN Enc. Enc. Enc.
Allow up to 15 seconds for the changer to reset. Basket rotation goes from 0 to maximum RPM.
IMPORTANT: The water in the tub must be drained before testing. IMPORTANT: To activate fast spin, the RPM reading must be “0” and the lid must be
closed with the lock activated. If the lid is not closed, the washer will make a sound and the lights will flash.
• If the motor does not rotate, see TEST #3a & 3b: Shaft System (Shifter and Motor), pages 13 and 14.
GENTLE AGITATION Enc. Enc. Enc.

Allow up to 15 seconds for the changer to reset. Switch from motor idle to gentle agitation clockwise and counterclockwise.
IMPORTANT: To activate gentle agitation, the RPM reading must be “0” and the lid must be closed with the lock activated. If the lid is not closed, the
washer will make a sound and the lights will flash.
• If the motor does not rotate, see TEST #3a & 3b: Shaft System (Shifter and Motor), pages 13 and 14.
STRONG AGITATION Enc. Enc. Enc.

Allow up to 15 seconds for the changer to reset. Switches from motor at rest to strong agitation clockwise and counterclockwise.
IMPORTANT: To activate strong agitation, the RPM reading must be “0” and the lid must be closed with the lock activated. If the lid is not closed, the
washer will make a sound and the lights will flash.
• If the motor does not rotate, see TEST #3a & 3b: Shaft System (Shifter and Motor), pages 13 and 14.

PART NO. W10280489A PAGE 10

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TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE NOTE: Always check the error codes first (pp. 6-7).

Some tests will require access to components. See Figures 7 and 8, page 19 for component locations. For detailed troubleshooting
procedures, see “Troubleshooting Tests” starting on page 12.

PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSES REVIEWS AND TESTS

IT DOES NOT TURN ON There is no power to the washing machine Check power at outlet, check circuit breakers, fuses and
• Does not operate junction box.
• No status lights Connection problems
and main control
between AC connector Check the continuity of the power cable.

The main control is not installed correctly on See TEST #4: Console and Indicators, page 16.
the console.
Problem in the main control. See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.
THE CYCLE DOES NOT START The locking mechanism does not work 1. The lid does not close due to interference.
There is no response when 2. Does not block due to interference.
pressing the Start button. 3. See TEST #8: Lid Lock, page 18.
UI issue. See TEST #4: Console and Indicators, page 16.
Problem in the main control. See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.
THE USER INTERFACE DOES UI issue. See TEST #4: Console and Indicators, page 16.
NOT ACCEPT SELECTIONS Problem in the main control. See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.
NOT FULL There is no water inlet to the washing 1. Check the water connections to the washing
machine. machine.
2. Check that the water supply is open
Filter connected Checkhot and cold.
if there are clogged filters in the water valve or
hoses.
Drain hose installation
Check that the drain hose installation is correct.
Valve problem See TEST #2: Valves, page 13.
Problem in the main control. See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.
OVERFILLED Pressure hose. See TEST #6: Water Level, page 17.
Valve problem See TEST #2: Valves, page 13.
The washing machine requires calibration Perform the washer calibration, on page 4.
See TEST #6: Water Level, page 17.
Pressure switch or transducer on board.
Problem in the main control. See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.
TEMPERATURE Water hose installation.
INCORRECT WATER Make sure the water inlet hoses are connected correctly.
Temperature thermistor.
See TEST #5: Thermistor Temperature, page 16.
Valve problem See TEST #2: Valves, page 13.
Problem in the main control. See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.
DOES NOT SHAKE Does water cover the propeller? See TEST #6: Water Level, page 17.
See TEST #8: Lid Lock, page 18.
Is the lid lock open during the cycle?
Band Check that the band is not damaged.
Connection harness Check the connection harness between the main control
and the axle system.
changer problem
See TEST #3a: Axle-Shifter System, page 13.
engine problem See TEST #3b: Axle-Motor System, page 14.
tachometer problem There is no tub movement or tub speed is out of normal
(clog/belt/motor).
Main control problem See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.

PART NO. W10280489A PAGE 11

 FOR TECHNICIAN USE ONLY

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE (continued)

Some tests will require access to components. See Figures 7 and 8, page 19 for component locations. For detailed troubleshooting
procedures, see “Troubleshooting Tests” starting on page 12.
PROBLEM POSSIBLE CAUSES REVIEWS AND TESTS
DOES NOT CENTRIFUGE See TEST #8: Lid Lock, page 18.
Is the lid lock open during the cycle?
Band Check that the band is not damaged.
changer problem
See TEST #3a: Axle-Shifter System, page 13.
engine problem See TEST #3b: Axle-Motor System, page 14.
tachometer problem There is no tub movement or tub speed is out of normal
(clog/belt/motor).
Problem in the main control. See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.
DOES NOT DRAIN Drain hose installation
Check that the drain hose installation is correct. Make
sure the hose is not inserted more than 4.5” (113 mm).
Drain hose connected.
Check for blockages in the drain hose.
Blockages in the drain pump. Check tub drain under propeller and basket for
instructions
Connection harness Check the connection harness between the main control
and the drain pump.
Drain pump. See TEST #7: Drain Pump, page 17.
Problem in the main control. See TEST #1: Main Control, page 12.
CYCLE TIME IS LONGER THAN Excess foam 1. Check the use of HE detergent.
EXPECTED 2. Excessive use of detergent.
Imbalance 1. The load is unbalanced.
2. Swing the ring of leaking water.
Drain slowly. Check the drain for blockages.
Drop in water pressure. The filling time is longer.
Friction on the shaft. Check the motor and spindle accessories; Check if there
are clothes between the tub and the basket.
Weak suspension. The basket should not bounce up and down more than
once when pushing.
POOR WASHING Excess foam 1. Check the use of HE detergent.
PERFORMANCE 2. Excessive use of detergent.
Please see the Use and Care The load wobbles 1. The washing machine did not load properly.
guide 2. Perform washer calibration, page 4.
Incorrect water level 1. Perform washer calibration, page 4.
2. See TEST #2: Valves, page 13.
3. See TEST #6: Water Level, page 17.
The clothes are damp after the cycle. 1. Washing machine overloaded.
2. Excess foam (see above).
3. Objects stuck in the drain.
4. Weak suspension.
5. The changer does not move into position. (see
TEST #3a).
6. See TEST #7: Drain Pump, page 17.
The load is not rinsed. 1. Check the water supply.
2. You are not using HE detergent.
3. The washing machine was not loaded correctly.
4. The changer does not move into position. (see
TEST #3a).
5. See TEST #2: Valves, page 13.
Clothes are not being cleaned. 1. The washing machine was not loaded correctly.
2. Check the use of HE detergent.
3. You are not using the correct cycle.
4. The changing table does not move. (see EXHIBIT
Damage to clothing #3a).The washing machine is overloaded.
1.
2. Bleach was added incorrectly.
3. Sharp items in the tub
Incorrect option or cycle selection. Refer to customer “Use and Care Guide”

PART NO. W10280489A PAGE 12

 FOR TECHNICIAN USE ONLY

TROUBLESHOOTING TESTS > If there is no 120 VAC, check the continuity of the AC
TEST #1: Main Control power cable (See figures 9 and 10).
This test checks the power input and output to the control 6. Is the Diagnostic light ON or OFF?
major. This test assumes that the proper voltage is (See figure 3 below for Indication LIGHT.) ON: (+5VDC
present at the exit. > present) continue to step 7.
1. Unplug the washing machine or the electrical power. > OFF: (+5VDC missing) proceed to step 8.
2. Remove the console to access the main control. 7. With a voltmeter set to DC , connect the black terminal to
3. Verify that ALL connectors are fully inserted into the main control. J7-3 (Circuit Ground) and the red terminal to J2-4 (+13
4. Plug in the washing machine or reconnect the electrical power. > VDC).
5. With a voltmeter set to AC , connect the terminal If there is +13 VDC, the main control supply is fine.
black to J7-3 (neutral) and the red terminal to J7-1(L1). > If +13 VDC is not present, go to step 8.

If 120 VAC is present, go to step 6.

Main control board connectors (Figure 3)
J2 J10
□ J10-6 LINE 4
Yo

. J2-5 OPEN
J2-4 BLK +13VDC □ NETWORK LINE 5

J2-3 GRY -5VDC (CIRCUIT GROUND) □ J10-5 COLUMN 0

J2-2 PNK RPM INPUT
CHANGER POSITION INPUT
□ NETWORK COLUMN 1

4 J2-1 BLU □ J10-4 RED COLUMN 2

□ ' J10-3 RED COLUMN 3
J3 J10-2
□ J3-10 BLK THERMISTOR TEMP INPUT (HYBRID) J11NETWORK
□ J3-9 BLK THERMISTOR TEMP GROUND (HYBRID) J11-6 BLK
4 J10-1 LINE 2
□ NETWORK
J11-5 BLK LINE 3
□ J3-8 OPEN
□ . J11-4 BLK COLUMN 0
□ J3-7 OPEN
□ 1 J11-3 BLK COLUMN 1
□ J3-6 OPEN
□ J11-2 BLK COLUMN 2
□ J3-5 BLU COLD VALVE (L1)
□ J3-4 GRID HOT VALVE (L1) 4 J11-1 BLK COLUMN 3
□ J3-3 OPEN
J15
□ J3-2 OPEN
□ + J3-1 W.H.T NEUTRAL . J15-4 RED LOCK SWITCH

. ' J15-3WHT NEUTRAL

J4 . J15-2 BLU LID SWITCH INPUT
□ J4-3 BLU PRESSURE SWITCH INPUT - J15-1 YEL LOCK SWITCH SOLENOID (L1)

□ J4-2 OPEN J16

□ 4 J4-1 BLK -5VDC (CIRCUIT GROUND)
J16-7 ORN CMR ENGINE COIL (L1) FMR
J16-6 RED ENGINE COIL (L1) ENGINE
J7 J16-5 WHT (NEUTRAL)
J16-4 OPEN
— J7-3 BLK NEUTRAL
— J7-2 GRN CHASSIS GROUND J16-3 LT BLU DRAIN PUMP MOTOR (L1)
J7-1 BLK L1 J16-2 W/BLU SHIFTER MOTOR (NEUTRAL)
— 4 J16-1 BRN SHIFTER MOTOR (L1)
Changer -
J4 pressure switch J12 On J11 rotary encoders

Diagnostic
LIGHT
On J10 rotary
encoders*

cable
current J7 J3 Temperature
Sensor/Valves

◄ = Represents pin-1 PSC/Drained Engine Lid lock Not available on all

J15 models
J16

PART NO. W10280489A PAGE 13

 FOR TECHNICIAN USE ONLY

8. Check if the changer mounting is affecting the DC power to following steps assume that this step was not successful.
the main control. 2. Unplug the washing machine or the electrical power.
a. Unplug the washing machine or the electrical power. 3. Check to see if the basket will spin freely.
b. Remove connector J2 from the main control. 4. Remove the console to the main access.
c. Plug in the washing machine or the electrical current. 5. Visually check that connectors J2 and J16 are fully inserted
d. Repeat steps 6 and 7. Perform the +13 VDC check inside the into the main control.
J2 header on the board – do not short the pins together. > If the visual inspection passes, go to step 6.
e. If one or more DC voltages are missing, go to step 9. > If the connectors are not inserted correctly, reconnect J2 and
f. If the DC voltage returns, check for any shorts in the J16 and repeat step 1.
harness between main control and shifter assembly.
g. If the harness and connections are good, replace the shifter Shifter motor:
assembly. 6. Remove connector J16 from the main control. Using an
9. The main control is failing. ohmmeter, check the resistance of the shifter motor across
a. Unplug the washing machine or the electrical power. the following output pins of connector J16:
b. Replace main control. Component Output pin Connector J16
c. Reassemble all parts and panels. changer motor J16, 1 and 2
d. Plug in the washing machine or the electrical current.
Calibrate the washer and perform the Self Test to verify the The resistance should be between 2k to 3.5kΩ.
repair. > If the values are correct, reconnect J16 and proceed to step 7.
> If the values are open or out of range, go to step 13.
TEST #2: Valves 7. Plug in the washing machine or the electrical current.
This test checks the electrical connections to the valves and the 8. With a voltmeter set to AC , connect the black terminal to J16-
valves themselves. 2(N) and the red terminal to J16-1(L1). Activate the changer
1. Check the relays and electrical connections to the valves by motor by switching between spin and agitation modes.
performing the hot and cold water valve tests described on Energize the outputs using Manual Test Mode. Energize the
page 9. outputs using Manual Test Mode on page 9.
Each test activates and deactivates the selected valve. The IMPORTANT: The lid must be closed with the lid locked to run the
following steps assume one (or more) valves did not turn on. CENTRIFUGING and AGITATION tests.
2. For the valves in question, check the individual valve NOTE: It will take between 4-15 seconds for the changer to
solenoids: change state.
a. Unplug the washing machine or the electrical power. > If 120 VAC is present, go to step 9.
b. Remove the console to access the main control. > If there is no 120 VAC, go to step 17.
c. Remove connector J3 from the main control.
See main control diagram on page 12. Changer switch:
d. Check the connection harness to the solenoid valves. 9. With a voltmeter set to DC , connect the black terminal to J2-3
3. Check the resistance of the valve coils through the following (Circuit Ground) and the red terminal to J2-1 (Int. changing
connectors J3. table).
In Manual Test mode, switch between Spin and Shake modes.
Valve output pin The voltage must be between 0 and +5VDC. SPIN = +5VDC
hot valve J3, 1 and 4 AGITATION = 0 VDC.
cold valve J3, 1 and 5
> If the voltage corresponds to the setting, go to step 10.
The resistance should be between 890-1.3kΩ. > If the voltage does not change, go to step 12.
> If the resistance readings are tens of ohms out of range,
replace the valve assembly.
> IF the resistance readings are within range, replace the main
control and calibrate the washer. Perform the self test to
verify the repair.

TEST #3a: Axle System - Shifter

This test checks the connections, shifter motor, switch and optical
sensor.
NOTE: See Figure 4, “Shipper Mounting Circuit” on page 14 for
tests and measurements.
IMPORTANT: Drain water from the tub before accessing the
bottom of the washer.
Functional review:
1. Check the changer and electrical connections by performing a
Spin and Shake test under Manual Test Mode on page 9. The

PART NO. W10280489A PAGE 14

 FOR TECHNICIAN USE ONLY

Optical sensor: a. Unplug the washing machine or the electrical power.

10. With a voltmeter set to DC , connect the black terminal to J2-3 b. Replace the shifter assembly.
(Circuit Ground) and the red terminal to J2-4 (+13 VDC). c. Replace all parts and panels.
> If there is +13 VDC, go to step 11. d. Plug in the washer or reconnect the power. Calibrate the
10. If +13 VDC is not present, go to step 17. washer and perform a Self Test to verify the repair.
17. If the previous steps did not correct the problem, replace the
11. Activate the Tachometer Check Mode of the Service main control.
Diagnostic Test Modes (see page 5). Slowly turn the basket a. Unplug the washing machine or the electrical power.
by hand. The 4 status lights should illuminate one at a time to b. Replace main control.
represent the RPM of the basket. c. Reassemble all parts and panels.
> If the tachometer is not verified, go to step 12. d. Plug in the washer or reconnect the power.
> If the tachometer is verified, go to step 17. Calibrate the washer and perform a Self Test to verify the
repair.
12. Unplug the washing machine or the electrical power.
13. Tilt the washer back to access the bottom of the washer and TEST #3b: Shaft System - Motor
the motor shaft area. This test checks the motor, motor coils, wiring, and starting
14. Visually check the electrical connections to the changer. > If capacitor.
the visual inspection passes, go to step 15. NOTE: See figure 5. “PSC Motor Circuit” on page 15 for tests and
> If the connections are loose, reconnect the electrical connections measurements.
and repeat step 1.
IMPORTANT: Drain water from tub before reaching bottom of
15. With an ohmmeter, check the continuation of the harnesses washer.
between the shifter and the main control using the output pins 1. Check the motor and electrical connections by performing a
in the following diagram. Gentle and Hard Shake test on page 9. The following steps
> If there is continuity, go to step 16. assume that this step was not successful.
> If there is no continuity, replace the washer lower harness and 2. Unplug the washing machine or the electrical power.
repeat step 1. 3. Check if the basket rotates freely.
> If the basket spins freely, go to step 4.
Changer to Main Control and Drain Pump Changer Connector > If the basket does not rotate freely, determine what is causing
Pin-2 to Main Control J16-2 Changer Connector Pin-3 to Main friction or mechanical blocking.
Control J16-1 Changer Connector Pin-4 to Main Control J2-4 4. Remove the console to access the main control.
Changer Connector Pin-5 to Main Control J2-3 Changer connector 5. Visually check that connectors J2 and J16 are fully inserted
Pin-6 to Main Control J2-2 Changer connector Pin-7 to Main into the main control.
Control J2-1 > If the visual inspection passes, go to step 6.
16. Replace the shifter assembly. > IF the connectors are not inserted correctly, reconnect J2 and
J16 and repeat step 1.

Changer assembly
Main control Motor resistance 2k to 3.5k ohms Main control
“I I
J16-
_ ___________________ 1
-n1 11
Engine change relay dor

Yo
Yo
Earth circuit — J2-3 Pin 5 —L -Pin 6 J2-2 — RPM input
Optical Yo "Yo- |
4- 1 AVnC J2-4 Pin 4 sensor Yo
___1 1_
_ _______ Yo__________________Yo
Yo
Figure 4 – Changer Assembly Circuit (Changer Switch: Open = SPIN, Closed = AGITATION)

PART NO. W10280489A PAGE 15

 FOR TECHNICIAN USE ONLY

Engine
6. Plug harness check machine or the electrical current. Run
in the washing > If the connections are loose, reconnect the electrical
Pin-1 motor connector
the Gentle Shaketotest
chassis ground
on page 9 in Manual Test Mode. connections, reassemble the motor cover and repeat step
Pin-3 motora connector
7. With to J16-1
voltmeter set to ACMain Control
, connect the black terminal to 1.
Motor J16-5
Connector Pin-3
(N) and thetored
Capacitor
terminal Pin-3
to J16-6 (Clockwise Coil).
Pin-6
> IfMotor Connector
120 VAC to J16-6during
ON is flowing Main Control
clockwise rotation, go to 13. Using an ohmmeter, check harness continuity between the
Motor step
Connector
8. Pin-6 to Capacitor Pin-1 main control, motor and capacitor using the following test
Pin-9
> IfMotor Connector
120 VAC to J16-5 go
is not present, Main Control#1: Main Control,
to TEST points.
page 12.
> If there is continuity, go to step 14.
>8. If With
thereaisvoltmeter
no continuity,
set toreplace the lower
AC , connect the machine harness
black terminal to and repeat step 1.
J16-5 (N) and the red terminal to J16-7 (Coil
Counterclockwise).
> If 120 VAC ON is circulating during counterclockwise
rotation, go to step 9.
> If 120 VAC is not present, go to TEST #1: Main Control,
page 12.

9. Unplug the washing machine or the electrical power.

10. Remove connector J16 from the main control. Using an
ohmmeter, check the resistance of the motor coils across
the output pins of connector J16.
14. Using an ohmmeter, check the resistance of the motor
NOTE: If the console has a cycle selector and 4 rotary
coils and subsequent motor connections.
switches, the motor size is 1/3 HP.

Size motor coil Endurance

Motor output
pin
FMR coil Pins 4 and 5.5 to 9.5Ω
1/4 HP
CMR coil Pins 3 and 5.5 to 9.5Ω
Size Output pin Endurance
motor coil FMR coil 6 Pins 4 and 3.5 to 6Ω
J16 1/3 HP
CMR coil Pins 3 and 3.5 to 6Ω
FMR coil J16, 5 and 6 5.5 to 9.5Ω
1/4 HP 6
CMR coil J16, 5 and 7 5.5 to 9.5Ω > If values are open or out of range, replace motor.
FMR coil J16, 5 and 6 3.5 to 6Ω > IF the values are correct, go to step 15.
1/3 HP
CMR coil J16, 5 and 7 3.5 to 6Ω
> IF values are open or out of range, go to step 11. 15. Motor Load Capacitor Test. NOTE: A failed capacitor can
> If the values are correct, go to step 15. cause the motor to hum, not start, or spin slowly.
11. Tilt the washer back to access the shaft system. a. Discharge the capacitor by pressing the terminals of a
12. Visually check the mounting bracket and electrical 20,000 Ω resistor across both terminals.
connections to the motor and shifter. b. Disconnect the wires from the capacitor terminals.
> If the visual check passes, go to step 13. c. Using an ohmmeter, measure across the terminals and
record the reading.
> If an increase in the noted resistance is noted, continue to step
16.

Main control PSC N

L1 engine Main control Main control
Pin
CWTRIAC
6*
Run Wiring Coil FMR Yo Yo- - -1 Yo----1
inductive Pin 9 |- |J16-5|----|J15-4| —or—•— |J15-3|--|J7-3 |-- -
CCWTRIAC Cap[3 CMR coil
Yo_________Yo
Int. blockingYo_____Yo
J16-7 Pin3

PART NO. W10280489A PAGE 16

 FOR TECHNICIAN USE ONLY

PART NO. W10280489A PAGE 17

 FOR TECHNICIAN USE ONLY

> If the capacitor is either shorted or open, replace the capacitor, Rotary switch does not toggle LIGHT:
calibrate and repeat step 1. Perform the “One or more status LIGHTS are flashing”
procedures.
16. If the above steps did not correct the motor problem, replace
the main control. TEST #5: Temperature Thermistor
a. Unplug the washing machine or the electrical power. This test checks the valves, main control, temperature thermistor
b. Replace main control. and wiring.
c. Reassemble all parts and panels. 1. Check the cold water valve by performing a Test in Manual
d. Plug in the washing machine or the electrical current. mode on page 9.
Calibrate the washer and perform a Self Test to verify > If cold water is being dispensed, proceed to step 2.
the repair. > If hot water is being dispensed, check that the
Hose connection is correct.
TEST #4: Console and Indicators 2. Check the hot water valve by performing a Test in Manual
Console and indicators review: mode on page 9.
This test is performed when any of the following situations occur > If hot water is being dispensed, proceed to step 3.
during UI Test Mode on page 4. > If cold water is being dispensed, make sure the water
V None of the lights come on hot is present.
/ One or more lights are flashing 3. Unplug the washing machine or the electrical power.
/ Turning the rotary switches does not change the LIGHT. 4. Remove the console to access the main control.
5. Remove connector J3 from the main control. Using an
No light comes on: ohmmeter, measure the resistance of the temperature
1. Unplug the washing machine or the electrical power. thermistor between pins J3-9 and J3-10. Verify that the
2. Access the main control and visually check that ALL approximate resistance, shown in the following table, is
connectors are fully inserted into their respective headers. within the ambient temperature range.
3. Visually check that the main control assembly is correctly
inserted into the console.
4. If both visual inspections pass, follow the procedure in TEST
#1, “Main Control” on page 12 to verify the supply voltages.
5. To verify the repair, activate Service Diagnostic Mode, and
then perform a UI Test on page 4.

One or more Status Lights are flashing:

If one or more status lights are flashing (on and off at 0.5 second
intervals), see the following notes to identify the switches in
question. See the appropriate wiring diagram on pages 20-21
when performing the following procedures.
a. Verify that the connector switch is fully inserted into the main
control.
b. Check continuity between the harness between the switch
and the main control. Check for shorts.
c. Replace the switch.
d. Replace main control.

NOTE 1: The number and location of rotary switches varies

between models.

NOTE 2: Regardless of location, switches are read from left to

right (not counting the pressure switch), with the far left switch
being #1.

NOTE 3: Each rotary switch and cycle selector knob is

represented by the following status lights:
• switch rotary #1–alternate(1) LIGHT of Fill
• switch rotary #2–alternate(2) LIGHT of Washed
• switch rotary #3–alternate(3) LIGHT of Rinse
• switch
Centrifuged
rotary #4–alternate(4) LIGHT of
• Cycle selector knob – toggles (5) End LIGHT
NOTE 4: Light names may vary between brands and models.
Use the LIGHT ID #.

(1)Fill (2)Wash (3)Rinse (4)Spin (5)Done

PART NO. W10280489A PAGE 18

 FOR TECHNICIAN USE ONLY

THERMISTOR RESISTANCE 5. Check the hose connection between the pressure transducer
Approximate temperature Approximate resistance or switch and the pressure dome attached to the tub.
F° C° (KΩ) 6. Make sure the hose is routed correctly in the lower cabinet
32 0 163 and is not kinked or twisted in the rear panel.
41 5 127 7. Check that there is no water, foam or dirt in the hose or
dome. Disconnect the hose from the main control or
50 10 100
pressure switch and blow into the hose to clear any water,
59 15 79
foam or debris.
68 20 62
8. Check the hose for leaks. Replace if necessary.
77 25 50 9. If the above steps do not correct the problem, go to step 10 if
86 30 40 you are looking for a problem with the pressure switch or
95 35 33 step 11 if you are looking for a problem with an onboard
104 40 27 pressure transducer.
113 45 22 10. Pressure Switch Only:
122 50 18 a. Remove the pressure hose from the switch.
131 55 15 b. Place the ohmmeter terminals across the
140 60 12 connectors J4, Pins 1 and 3 of the main control. Blow into
149 65 10 the pressure switch inlet. The pressure switch contact should
close and show continuity.
> If the resistance is within the range shown in the table, go to c. If there is no continuity, check the harness and connections
step 6. between the pressure switch and J4 on the main control. If
> IF the resistance is infinite or close to zero, replace the OK, replace pressure switch.
temperature thermistor assembly. d. If there is continuity, reconnect the hose to the pressure
switch and continue to step 11.
NOTE: Most thermistor errors are a result of the resistor being
out of range. If the thermistor temperature is failing, the washer 11. Replace the main control and calibrate the washer. Perform
will be working with the factory pre-programmed wash options. a Self Test to verify the repair.

6. If the thermistor is OK, replace the main control and calibrate TEST #7: Drain Pump
the washer. Perform a Self Test to verify the repair. Perform the following checks if the washer does not drain.
NOTE: See Figure 6, “Drain Pump Circuit” for tests and
TEST #6: Water Level measurements.

This test checks the water level sensing components. Depending IMPORTANT: Drain water from the tub before accessing the
on the model, the washer will have either an onboard pressure bottom of the washer.
transducer or a separate pressure switch. 1. Check for obstructions in common areas. Clean and then
NOTE: Usually, if the pressure transducer or pressure switch perform step 2.
fails, the washer will take a long time to fill or take a long time to
drain. 2. Check the drain pump and electrical connections by
1. Check the functionality of the pressure transducer or performing a Drain Test under Manual Test Mode on page
pressure switch by running a short charge cycle. The valves 9. The following steps assume that this step was not
should automatically turn off after detecting the correct successful.
water level in the tub. The following steps assume that this 3. Unplug the washing machine or the electrical power.
step was not successful. 4. Remove the console to access the main control.
5. Visually check that connector J16 is fully inserted into the
2. Drain the tub until all the water has been removed. main control.
3. Unplug the washing machine or the electrical power. > If the visual check passes, go to step 6.
4. Remove the console to access the controls. > If the connector is not fully inserted, reconnect J16 and

L1
Assembly of the
Motor
Main Control Shift Drain Pump Main control

Figure 6 - Drain Pump Circuit

PART NO. W10280489A PAGE 19

 FOR TECHNICIAN USE ONLY

repeat step 2. 6. Remove connector J15 from the main control. Using an
6. Remove connector J16 from the main control. Using an ohmmeter, check the lid lock resistance values across the
ohmmeter, check the resistance values shown below following pins of connector J15.
across the following output pins on connector J16.
LID LOCK RESISTANCE
Component Output pin Connector J16 Measured
Component Endurance
Drain pump J16, 2 and 3 contacts
85 to 155 ohms J15-1 J15-3
The resistance should be between 14-25Ω. Lock Switch Solenoid
> If the values are open or out of range, go to step 7. Lock switch J15-3 J15-4
Locked = 0 ohms Unlocked =
> If the values are correct, go to step 11. Open Circuit

7. Tilt the washer back to access the pressure pump. Lock switch J15-3 J15-2
Cap Lock = 0 ohms Cap Open
drained. Check that the pump is free of obstructions. = Open Circuit
8. Visually check the electrical connections on the drain pump.
> If the visual check passes, go to step 9. > If the resistor values are okay, go to step 7.
> If the connections are loose, reconnect the electrical > If the switch measurements do not match the
connections and repeat step 2. values shown in the table for the unlock (or lock) condition,
then there is a problem with the lid lock. Replace the lid
9. Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity between the
locking mechanism.
harnesses and the drain pump and main control. See the
following table. 7. If the above steps did not correct the lockup problem, replace
Main control to drain pump the main control.
Drain Pump Pin 1 to Main Control J16-3 a. Unplug the washing machine or the electrical power.
Drain Pump Pin 2 to Main Control J16-2 b. Replace main control.
c. Reassemble all parts and panels.
> If there is continuity, go to step 10. d. Plug in the washing machine or the electrical current.
> IF there is no continuity, replace the lower harness of the Calibrate the washer and perform a Self Test to verify the
machine harness and repeat step 2. repair.
10. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance across the 2
terminals of the pump. The resistance must be between 14
25Ω.
> If the values are open or out of range, replace the motor
pump.
> If the resistance in the pump motor is correct, go to step 11.

11. If the above steps did not correct the drain problem, replace
the main control.
a. Unplug the washing machine or the electrical power.
b. Replace main control.
c. Reassemble all parts and panels.
d. Plug in the washer or reconnect the power.
Calibrate the washer and perform a Self Test to verify the
repair.

TEST #8: Lid Lock

Perform the following checks if the washing machine does not
lock (or unlock).

1. Perform the Lid Lock test under Manual Test Mode on page
9. The following steps assume that this step was not
successful.
2. Check the lid locking mechanism to ensure there are no
obstructions. Repair if necessary.
3. Unplug the washing machine or the electrical power.
4. Remove the console to access the main control.
5. Visually check that connector J15 is fully inserted into the
main control.
> If the visual check passes, go to step 6.
> If the connector is not inserted correctly, reconnect J15 and
repeat step 1.

PART NO. W10280489A PAGE 20

 FOR TECHNICIAN USE ONLY

Component Location – Console and Valves (Figure 7)

Component Location – Drain System and Drain Pump (Figure 8)

Specifications
WASHER SPECIFICATIONS
Voltage: 90-140 VAC
Frequency: 57-63HZ
Max. Amps: 12.0A
Circuit protection: 15 A Instantaneous Type Fuse (Main Control)
Water pressure: 15-125 PSI
Drain height: 34 inches to 8 feet (86 cm to 244 cm)

PART NO. W10280489A PAGE 21

 FOR TECHNICIAN USE ONLY
Operating temperature range: 40 – 115° F (4.5 – 46° C)

PART NO. W10280489A PAGE 22

 FOR TECHNICIAN USE ONLY
Wiring Diagram #1 (1/3 HP Motor, Separate Pressure Switch, 1 or 2 Rotary Switches)
IMPORTANT: Electrostatic discharge can cause damage to the machine's electronic controls. See page 1 for information
NOTE : The diagram shows the shifter in the SPIN position, lock switch open and engine off.
Main Control
change
power cord
L1 Centrifuged
Changer position Blue
GND 2
input
Agitation
N 3 Pink
RPM input +— 2 Sensor
circuit
White
Grey
Water valves 890 2 Black
at 1.3k ohms Red 4 120Vac Motor
Hot 3 Coffe
e 3
4 White blue
2
Blue Tanned
Cold 5
2k motor resistance
at 3.5k ohms
6
Temp thermistor of omba drained
water
10C (50F) 97K to 102K25C
120Vac Motor
(77F) 49K to 51K
40C (104F) 26K to 27.2K 8
Black J16 Sky
9 blue motor resistance
Black 14 to 25 ohms
10
temperature 2
Pressure 3
switch
1 PSC engine
3 -----• Entry of 5 White
Switch of
rotary encoder rotary pressure Red
encoder
6
FMR coil
Capacitor
—1 Cabling each coil
motor
inductive 5.5 to 9.5
2 ohms
Ha- FMR coil
3
4 Orange
5 Green yellow
6

► Encoder
switch inputs Lock

Red blocking

White

Lid switch
Blue
input 2
Yellow

120Vac
Switch Solenoid
lock
Figure 9 – Wiring Diagram #1 85 to 155 ohms
Legend

Terminals Connectio No motor triac Relay switch thermistor circuit chassis

component n Connection ground ground

PART NO. W10280489A PAGE 23

 FOR TECHNICIAN USE ONLY

Wiring Diagram #2 (1/3 HP Motor, Onboard Pressure Transducer, 4 Rotary Switches)

IMPORTANT: Electrostatic discharge can cause damage to the machine's electronic controls. See page 1 for information
NOTE : The diagram shows the shifter in the SPIN position, lock switch open and engine off.
Control Major
changing
table
power cord
L1 Centrifuged
Position input Blue
GND 2 changing table Agitation
N 3 Pink
RPM input Optical
sensor
White circuit
Grey
Water valves 890 5
at 1.3k ohms 2 Black
4
3 120Vac Motor
Coffe
Hot e 3
Red White blue
2
Blue Tanned Motor resistance 2k
Cold 5
to 3.5k ohms
6
omba drained
Temp thermistor of 120Vac Motor
water I HEARD
10C (50F) 97K to 102K25C 8 Sky
(77F) 49K to 51K 40C (104F)
26K to 27.2K 9 blue Motor resistance 14
Black to 25 ohms
Black
10 Temperature
input

Hose • Onboard PSC engine

pressure to TINA 4 * • . pressure White
transducer 5 9
rotary Encoder Red
encoder rotary 6 6
Motor capacitor FMR coil
—1— Each coil 5.5 to
Cabling 9.5 ohms
inductive
nuc FMR coil
3
Orange
Row Green yellow
engine frame
Row

rotary encoder Encoder • Encoder

rotary switch inputs Lid lock
Int. lock
Red
2
White
3
Lid switch
input Blue
5 Row 3
Row 2 Yellow
6

Switch Solenoid
lock
Figure 10 – Wiring Diagram #2 85 to 155 ohms

PART NO. W10280489A PAGE 24

 FOR TECHNICIAN USE ONLY

/77
-r—
Connection k2l

thermistor
No Connection chassis ground
Component Ev
Terminals motor triac Rel e or switch circuit ground
* 1/3 HP motor – Each coil 3.5 to 6 ohms / * 1/4 HP motor – Each coil 5.5 to 9.5 ohms

Figure 5 – PSC Motor Circuit (shown in the ON position)

Legend

PART NO. W10280489A PAGE 25