INTERNATIONAL ISO

STANDARD 20932-1

First edition
2018-11

Textiles — Determination of the

elasticity of fabrics —
Part 1:
Strip tests
Textiles — Détermination de l'élasticité des étoffes —
Partie 1: Essais sur bande
iTeh STANDARD PREVIEW
(standards.iteh.ai)
ISO 20932-1:2018
https://standards.iteh.ai/catalog/standards/sist/a768f2cd-b73d-4f40-b305-
cec506b0d3be/iso-20932-1-2018

Reference number
ISO 20932-1:2018(E)

© ISO 2018
ISO 20932-1:2018(E)


iTeh STANDARD PREVIEW

(standards.iteh.ai)
ISO 20932-1:2018
https://standards.iteh.ai/catalog/standards/sist/a768f2cd-b73d-4f40-b305-
cec506b0d3be/iso-20932-1-2018

COPYRIGHT PROTECTED DOCUMENT

© ISO 2018
All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, or required in the context of its implementation, no part of this publication may
be reproduced or utilized otherwise in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or posting
on the internet or an intranet, without prior written permission. Permission can be requested from either ISO at the address
below or ISO’s member body in the country of the requester.
ISO copyright office
CP 401 • Ch. de Blandonnet 8
CH-1214 Vernier, Geneva
Phone: +41 22 749 01 11
Fax: +41 22 749 09 47
Email: copyright@iso.org
Website: www.iso.org
Published in Switzerland

ii  © ISO 2018 – All rights reserved

 ISO 20932-1:2018(E)


Contents Page

Foreword......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................... iv
Introduction...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................v
1 Scope.................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 1
2 Normative references....................................................................................................................................................................................... 1
3 Terms and definitions...................................................................................................................................................................................... 1
4 Principle......................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 3
5 Sampling......................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 3
6 Apparatus...................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 4
7 Atmosphere for conditioning and testing................................................................................................................................... 5
8 Preparation of test specimens................................................................................................................................................................. 5
8.1 General............................................................................................................................................................................................................ 5
8.2 Test specimen preparation............................................................................................................................................................ 5
8.2.1 Woven fabrics...................................................................................................................................................................... 5
8.2.2 Knitted fabrics..................................................................................................................................................................... 6
8.2.3 Nonwoven fabrics............................................................................................................................................................ 7
9 Procedure..................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 8
9.1 Woven and nonwoven fabrics (other than knitted)................................................................................................. 8
9.1.1 iTeh STANDARD PREVIEW
Method A — Strip test specimens...................................................................................................................... 8
9.1.2 Method B — Loop test specimens..................................................................................................................... 8
9.2 (standards.iteh.ai)
Knitted fabrics.......................................................................................................................................................................................... 8
9.2.1 Method A — Strip test specimens...................................................................................................................... 8
9.2.2 Method B — LoopISO test20932-1:2018
specimens..................................................................................................................... 9
9.3 Operation...................................................................................................................................................................................................... 9
https://standards.iteh.ai/catalog/standards/sist/a768f2cd-b73d-4f40-b305-
cec506b0d3be/iso-20932-1-2018
10 Recording................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 10
11 Expressions and calculations of test results..........................................................................................................................10
12 Test report................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 11
Annex A (informative) Example of a typical cycling graph..........................................................................................................13
Annex B (informative) Procedure for sampling......................................................................................................................................14
Annex C (informative) Clamping and holding devices.....................................................................................................................15
Annex D (informative) Example of a pattern for cutting test specimens from a laboratory
sample........................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 17
Bibliography.............................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 18

© ISO 2018 – All rights reserved  iii

ISO 20932-1:2018(E)


Foreword
ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards
bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out
through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical
committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International
organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work.
ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of
electrotechnical standardization.
The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are
described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular the different approval criteria needed for the
different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the
editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www​.iso​.org/directives).
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of
any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or
on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www​.iso​.org/patents).
Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not
constitute an endorsement.
For an explanation on the voluntary nature of standards, the meaning of ISO specific terms and
expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISO's adherence to the
iTeh STANDARD PREVIEW
World Trade Organization (WTO) principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) see the following
URL: www​.iso​.org/iso/foreword​.html.
(standards.iteh.ai)
This document was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38, Textiles, Subcommittee SC 24,
Conditioning atmospheres and physical tests for textile fabrics.
ISO 20932-1:2018
https://standards.iteh.ai/catalog/standards/sist/a768f2cd-b73d-4f40-b305-
Any feedback or questions on this document should be directed to the user’s national standards body. A
cec506b0d3be/iso-20932-1-2018
complete listing of these bodies can be found at www​.iso​.org/members​.html.
A list of all parts in the ISO 20932 series can be found on the ISO website.

iv  © ISO 2018 – All rights reserved

 ISO 20932-1:2018(E)


Introduction
This document was developed as a result of technical advancements in yarn and fabric structures and
properties, which increase product range and developments.
This document is based on EN 14704-1[1].

iTeh STANDARD PREVIEW

(standards.iteh.ai)
ISO 20932-1:2018
https://standards.iteh.ai/catalog/standards/sist/a768f2cd-b73d-4f40-b305-
cec506b0d3be/iso-20932-1-2018

© ISO 2018 – All rights reserved  v

 iTeh STANDARD PREVIEW
(standards.iteh.ai)
ISO 20932-1:2018
https://standards.iteh.ai/catalog/standards/sist/a768f2cd-b73d-4f40-b305-
cec506b0d3be/iso-20932-1-2018
INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 20932-1:2018(E)

Textiles — Determination of the elasticity of fabrics —

Part 1:
Strip tests

1 Scope
This document describes the methods of test using strips of fabric in straight strip form or as loops,
which can be used to measure elasticity and related properties of fabrics, excluding narrow fabrics.

2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
ISO 139, Textiles — Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing
ISO 4915, Textiles — Stitch types — Classification and terminology
iTeh STANDARD PREVIEW
ISO 7500-1, Metallic materials — Verification of static uniaxial testing machines — Part 1: Tension/
(standards.iteh.ai)
compression testing machines — Calibration and verification of the force-measuring system
ISO 10012, Measurement management systems — Requirements for measurement processes and measuring
ISO 20932-1:2018
equipment https://standards.iteh.ai/catalog/standards/sist/a768f2cd-b73d-4f40-b305-
cec506b0d3be/iso-20932-1-2018
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https:​//www​.iso​.org/obp
— IEC Electropedia: available at http:​//www​.electropedia​.org/
3.1
narrow fabric
woven or knitted construction intended for use as a trim, binding, edging, strapping or harness, and
designed to be used in its full width
3.2
elasticity
<material> ability to recover original size and shape immediately after the removal of the force causing
deformation
3.3
constant-rate-of-extension testing machine
CRE testing machine
tensile testing machine provided with one clamp, which is stationary, and another clamp, which moves
with a constant speed throughout the test, the entire testing system being virtually free from deflection

© ISO 2018 – All rights reserved  1

ISO 20932-1:2018(E)


3.4
strip test specimen
test specimen in which the full width is gripped in the jaws of the testing machine
3.5
loop test specimen
test specimen in which a seam is made to create a loop of the full width of the specimen and which is
placed around a loop bar assembly positioned on the testing machine
Note 1 to entry: This method of preparation is useful when any ageing or exposure testing is to be carried out on
the specimens after measurement.

3.6
gauge length
distance between the two effective clamping or holding points of a testing device
Note 1 to entry: For strip tests, method A: distance between the two contact points of the line clamps.

Note 2 to entry: For loop tests, method B: half of the circumference around the loop bar assembly.

3.7
slack mounting
insertion of a strip test specimen (3.4) in the line clamps of the upper jaw, allowing it to hang freely
under its own weight, guided by the hand to ensure perpendicular alignment to the line of pulling force,
without any force being applied
3.8 iTeh STANDARD PREVIEW
initial length
(standards.iteh.ai)
length of the test specimen between the two effective clamping or holding points, at the beginning of
the test (after slack mounting (3.7) or under specified pretension)
ISO 20932-1:2018
3.9 https://standards.iteh.ai/catalog/standards/sist/a768f2cd-b73d-4f40-b305-
pretension cec506b0d3be/iso-20932-1-2018
force applied to a test specimen at the beginning of certain tests
Note 1 to entry: Pretension is used to determine the initial length of the test specimen.

[SOURCE: ISO 13934-1:2013, 3.5, modified — References to 3.4 and 3.7 have been removed from Note 1
to entry.]
3.10
extension
increase in length of a test specimen during testing
Note 1 to entry: Extension is expressed in units of the length.

3.11
elongation
ratio of the extension (3.10) of the test specimen to its initial length
Note 1 to entry: Elongation is expressed as a percentage.

3.12
maximum force
force at the position when a test specimen is taken to a fixed extension (3.10)
Note 1 to entry: Maximum force is expressed in newtons.

3.13
maximum extension
extension (3.10) recorded in millimetres at the position when a test specimen is taken to a fixed load
Note 1 to entry: Maximum extension is expressed in units of the length.

2  © ISO 2018 – All rights reserved

 ISO 20932-1:2018(E)


3.14
force at specified elongation
force measured at a given elongation (3.11) on either the load or unload curves
3.15
cycle
process whereby a fabric is taken from the gauge length (3.6) to a fixed load or fixed extension or
elongation and returned to gauge length
3.16
force decay due to time
loss of force measured over time when a test specimen is stretched to a specified elongation or force
and held at this position for a given time period
Note 1 to entry: The decay in force is expressed as a percentage of the original force recorded at the specified
position (see Annex A, Figure A.1).

3.17
force decay due to exercising
loss of force, calculated and expressed as a percentage, as measured and recorded at the same elongation
point on two different cycles when the test specimen is cycled several times between the gauge length
(3.6) and a specified elongation
Note 1 to entry: See Annex A, Figure A.1.

3.18
permanent deformation iTeh STANDARD PREVIEW
ratio of unrecovered extension of the test specimen after cycling (to a specified force or specified
extension) to its initial length(standards.iteh.ai)
Note 1 to entry: Permanent deformation is expressed as a percentage.
ISO 20932-1:2018
https://standards.iteh.ai/catalog/standards/sist/a768f2cd-b73d-4f40-b305-
3.19 cec506b0d3be/iso-20932-1-2018
recovered elongation
complement of permanent deformation (3.18) to 100 %
Note 1 to entry: Recovered elongation is expressed as a percentage.

3.20
elastic recovery
recovered elongation (3.19) of the total elongation
Note 1 to entry: Elastic recovery is expressed as a percentage.

4 Principle
A fabric test specimen of specified dimensions is extended at a constant rate to either a specified
force or elongation for an agreed number of cycles, and its elasticity determined by measuring certain
characteristics.

5 Sampling
Fabric samples shall be selected in accordance with the product specification. In the absence of a
product specification for the fabric, the sampling method given in Annex B may be used.

© ISO 2018 – All rights reserved  3

ISO 20932-1:2018(E)


6 Apparatus

6.1 CRE testing machine.

Metrological confirmation system of the tensile testing machine shall be in accordance with ISO 10012.
The constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) testing machine shall conform to the following.
a) The tensile testing machine shall be provided with the means for indicating or recording the force
and elongation values when cycling between gauge length and either a fixed load or fixed extension.
Under conditions of use, the accuracy of the apparatus shall be at least class 1 of ISO 7500-1. The
error of the indicated or recorded maximum force at any point in the range in which the machine
is used shall not exceed 1 %, and the error of the indicated or recorded jaw separation shall not
exceed 1 mm.
b) If recording of force or elongation is obtained by means of data acquisition boards and software,
the frequency of data collection shall be at least eight per second.
c) The machine shall be capable of constant rates of extension including 20 mm/min to 500 mm/min
with an accuracy of ±10 %.
d) The machine shall be capable of variable gauge length settings including 100 mm to 250 mm, to an
accuracy of ±1 mm.
e) The clamping or holding devices shall be positioned with their central point in line of the applied
force. The machine shall be calibrated with the clamping or holding devices in position and the jaw
iTeh STANDARD PREVIEW
faces closed, where applicable.
(standards.iteh.ai)
6.2 Line clamps (for method A).
ISO 20932-1:2018
The jaws shall be capable of holding the test specimen without allowing it to slip and designed so that
https://standards.iteh.ai/catalog/standards/sist/a768f2cd-b73d-4f40-b305-
they do not cut or otherwise weaken the test specimen.
cec506b0d3be/iso-20932-1-2018
Line clamps, as shown in Annex C, Figure C.1, shall consist of two jaws, one being of steel plate, the
other having a convex 3 mm radius. The line of contact of the jaws shall be perpendicular to the line of
increasing force. The clamping faces shall be in the same plane.
The line clamp jaws shall not be less than the width of the test specimen.
NOTE Significant levels of work have shown this type of line clamp is the preferred type for elastane/
elastodiene containing fabrics as fabric slippage is insignificant. If a fabric slips, the elongation values are
inaccurate.

Pneumatic operated grips are recommended as hand tightening of manual grips can cause distortion
of the test specimen. The air pressure should be sufficient to prevent slippage when compensating the
decreasing thickness of the fabric but should not cut or otherwise weaken the test specimen.

6.3 Loop bar assembly (for method B).

The loop bar assembly shall be as shown in Annex C, Figure C.2 a) or b) and typically comprises two
steel bars of circular cross-section and the diameter between 4 mm and 8 mm. The specimen is looped
over these bars and extended as the bars move apart. The axes of the bars shall be perpendicular to the
line of increasing force. The steel bar holders shall have a minimum internal dimension of 80 mm.

6.4 Equipment, for cutting test specimens and for fraying, where applicable to the required
dimensions.

6.5 Sewing machine, capable of producing a type 301 lockstitch as defined in ISO 4915, furnished
with a medium ballpoint needle (90s SUK) and 470 decitex (ticket 75’s) polyester core-spun thread.

4  © ISO 2018 – All rights reserved

 ISO 20932-1:2018(E)


NOTE If there is a risk of damage to the fabric, a finer needle and corresponding polyester core spun thread
can be used.

6.6 Calibrated metal rule, graduated in millimetres.

7 Atmosphere for conditioning and testing

The atmospheres for preconditioning, conditioning and testing shall be as specified in ISO 139.
The fabric samples shall be conditioned for a minimum of 20 h in a tension free state. The prepared test
specimens shall be conditioned in a tension free state for a further 4 h after preparation, to minimize
the effects of handling during preparation.

8 Preparation of test specimens

8.1 General
From each laboratory sample, a set of test specimens shall be cut in the direction(s) of the stretch.
A set shall consist of a minimum of five test specimens. No test specimen shall be cut from within
150 mm of either edge of the laboratory sample. No test specimen taken from the longitudinal direction
shall contain the same yarns and no test specimen taken from the transversal direction shall contain
the same yarns unless otherwise specified between interested parties.
NOTE
iTeh STANDARD PREVIEW
An example of a suitable pattern for cutting test specimens from laboratory sample is given in
Annex D, Figure D.1. (standards.iteh.ai)
8.2 Test specimen preparation ISO 20932-1:2018
https://standards.iteh.ai/catalog/standards/sist/a768f2cd-b73d-4f40-b305-
8.2.1 Woven fabrics cec506b0d3be/iso-20932-1-2018

8.2.1.1 Strip test specimens (for method A)

Each test specimen shall be cut with its length parallel to the warp or the weft of the fabric and
shall be sufficiently wide to allow the necessary fringes on both sides. Threads shall be removed in
approximately equal numbers from each of the long edges of the cut strip to create fringes, until a width
(not including the fringes) of (50,0 ± 1,0) mm or 1 complete thread, is achieved. The width of fringes
shall be such that during testing no longitudinal threads escape the fringes. The length of the specimen
shall be cut between 250 mm and 300 mm.
NOTE For the majority of fabrics, fringes of a width approximately 5 mm or 15 threads is sufficient. For very
closely woven fabrics, a much narrower fringe might be satisfactory. Fabrics of very open weave can require up
to 10 mm.

For fabrics, which cannot be frayed in this manner, test specimens shall be cut along lines (50,0 ± 1,0) mm
apart and parallel to the machine or the cross-machine direction.
For fabrics in form of band with a maximum width of 100 mm, test specimen can be tested in full width
without fraying them.
If permanent deformation is to be determined at the end of the test, place 100 mm reference (bench)
marks parallel to the specimen short side, centrally on the specimen.
If a pretension is used, placing of reference marks is not required, since the length at pretension is used
for calculation.

© ISO 2018 – All rights reserved  5