Pocket Tenerife 1 Preview
Pocket Tenerife 1 Preview
Josephine Quintero
QuickStart
16 Need to Know 17 18 19
Guide
see Survival Guide (p143) X Plan sightseeing around ‘free admission’
west of Santa Cruz de Tenerife.
highly recommended. and a leafy central plaza.
times, generally on Sundays A From Tenerife Sur Airport ] Top Experience Santa Cruz de
If you’ll be travelling a lot by public transport
Currency Markets for self-caterers
\
# La Laguna Tenerife (p22)
X
Destination Best Transport in Tenerife then it’s worth investing in a Bon- Jardín Botánico Santa Cruz
Euro (€) Via or Bono Bus card (www.titsa.com). Valid The Canarian capital in
de Tenerife
Midrange €75–€175 Costa Adeje TITSA bus (111, 450) \
#
every sense with great
on all TITSA buses throughout the island as
Language X Double room in midrange hotel €65 to €85 Los Cristianos TITSA bus (343, Express) well as the city tram network, they give a shops, restaurants and
Spanish (Castilian) Puerto sights.
X Lunch in decent restaurant €15 to €25 Puerto de la Cruz TITSA bus (343, Express) 30% discount on standard fares as well as \
# de la
Santa Cruz de TITSA bus (107, 108)
reduced entry to some tourist attractions. Cruz ] Top Experiences
Visas X Use the excellent bus service, not taxis Cards cost from €7.50 (12 trips) to €45 (a
Generally not required for stays of up to 90 Tenerife
\
# Museo de la Naturaleza
monthly ticket for frequent users) and can La y el Hombre
days (and not at all for members of EU or Top End more than €175 Tenerife Norte TITSA bus (343, Express) La Orotava (p76)
be bought from any bus or tram station as Orotava
Schengen countries). Some nationalities Double room in top-end hotel from €140 One of the prettiest Tenerife Espacio de las
X well as some newspaper kiosks. Check the La Laguna (p46)
need a Schengen visa. towns on Tenerife, with Artes (TEA)
X Fine dining for lunch and dinner from €35 website for more details. A fascinating Unesco
A From Tenerife Norte Airport great souvenir shopping World Heritage town Mercado de Nuestra
Money J Bus and traditional famed for its compelling Señora de África
Destination Best Transport
ATMs widely available. Credit cards Useful Websites Los Cristianos TITSA bus (343, Express) Tenerife has an impressive bus transport sys- restaurants and bars. historic architecture and
accepted in most hotels, restaurants and
Tenerife Tenerife
Top Experiences Local Life
Explore
Parque Nacional del Teide (p116) ,QVLGHUWLSVWRKHOS\RXÀQGWKHUHDOLVODQG
Tenerife
Traditional Santa stream of pilgrims. Crafts (p80) pretty main plaza before
Cruz (p30) Playa de las Teresitas
X Traditional craftsmanship exploring the cobbled
Foodie La Laguna X Tascas (tapas bars)
(p36)
X Old-fashioned stores lanes and coastline, dis-
X Traditional dishes (p50) Admire La Orotava’s covering convents, crafts
Bodeguita Canaria
Santa Cruz is a traditional X Gourmet Markets colonial-style buildings and even a castle along (p36)
working city. For travellers X Lively Bars and traditional crafts (and the way.
grown weary of souvenir Markets are an important tascas) untouched by time. La Noria (p40)
tat and bland internation- part of daily life in La
Exploring the
al fare, there are plenty of Laguna, just as bars are Backstreet Los Rastro (p43)
Anaga Mountains
128 Best Shopping Best Shopping 129 130 Best Green Spaces Best Green Spaces 131
The Best
Best Best
Shopping Green Spaces
It’s not hard to avoid straw donkeys and sex-on- Tenerife has some truly lovely parks and green
the-beach shot glasses: Tenerife has a chain of spaces, particularly around Puerto de la Cruz.
KAY MAERITZ/GETTY IMAGES ©
KRIS UBACH/GETTY IMAGES ©
quality-controlled souvenir shops that champion The gardens here are truly diverse; some have a
NITO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
NITO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
local art and crafts. The larger towns also have tangible sense of English gentility (with croquet
a pedestrian shopping area where idiosyncratic lawns, no less), while others are more subtropi-
small shops jostle for space next to national cal. Throughout the island the town parks are
chains. Delis are fun for browsing – mojo salsas always family friendly, as well as being highly
make great gifts, as well as other gourmet goodies. maintained and lushly landscaped with sub-
of Tenerife
Sant Telmo Street in Puerto de la Cruz (p60) tropical plants and the ubiquitous palms. Parque Marítimo César Manrique (p35)
Best Fashion Hensi Carries one of the Best Souvenir Shops Best Book Shops
Fashions & Textiles trees; Puerto de la Cruz. with birds, butterflies and Best Natural &
Dolores Promesas This widest local selections Pretty Parks (p62) meandering pathways.
While there are stores devoted to the main Spanish Artenerife Top-quality art La Isla Bookshop A Rural Parks
dynamic Santa Cruz– of shoes, concentrating Best City Parks (p86)
and crafts, including pot- long-established well- Like mainland Spain, parks and public gardens Risco Belle Aquatic
and international designers, you can also hunt out on designer and national Anaga Mountains This
based designer appeals tery and jewellery made stocked Santa Cruz are an integral part of the infrastructure here and Parque García Sanabria Gardens A lush water Jardínes del Marque-
small boutiques with home-grown talent or specialis- brands; Playa de las northeasterly region
to the fashionably chic by local artisans; Playa de bookshop on several viewed as much-loved focal points for local life. A delightful collection of garden in Puerto de la sado de la Quinta Roja
ing in ethnic or boho-chic threads. Shoes are gener- Américas. (p115) (pictured on p142) is
with her individual styles las Américas. (p114) floors; some English There is always plenty of shady seating, as well as Mediterranean and sub- Cruz with lakes, foun- These terraced gardens
ally a reliable buy here, good quality and generally wild, unspoiled and very,
and richly patterned titles. (p43) playgrounds and, increasingly, exercise equipment tropical trees and flowers, tains and dazzling plants provide a cascade of
cheaper than on the mainland. Leatherwear has also Best Food Shops Casa de la Aduana A very green with pine-clad
fabrics. (p42) interspersed with water and flowers. (p63) colour right in the centre
long been associated with Spain, and the Canaries large selection of arts and Librería Barbara A Los for adults. Generally toilets are also close to hand, mountains and forests of
Carolina Boix Local El Rincon Extremeño A crafts, as well as wine Cristianos-based multi- as well as that other necessity: a cafe or bar. Some features and sculptures; of La Orotava. (p83)
have plenty of shops that sell jackets, bags and belts Sitio Litre Garden While ancient laurels. (p122)
shoe designer who spe- La Laguna temple to all and gourmet delights in lingual Aladdin’s cave Santa Cruz. (p31)
parks have bandstands where concerts take place, orchids are the highlight El Teide The terrain
at highly competitive prices. Lace and embroidery things pork-inclined, par-
cialises in comfortable Puerto de la Cruz. (p74) of the written word with especially at fiesta time. Increasingly, parks are also Plaza Príncipe de Astu- here, the rest of this Best for Families of El Teide is volcanic,
are another speciality and the work is exquisite, inexpensive footwear for ticularly jamón serrano books, magazines, maps
MAIT Specialises in Latin showcasing sculpture, often contemporary, while rias Sit under the shade Puerto de la Cruz garden Parque Marítimo César rather than ‘green’ but
The island’s
although watch out for cheap imitations from China. men and women; Santa (Serrano ham), plus local and more... (p100)
American crafts displayed others double as venues for art-and-craft markets. of a giant Indian banyan is a well-established leafy Manrique In the shadow is still full of colour and
Cruz. (p43) cheese and gourmet
Ceramics & Jewellery in a wonderful dazzle of tree at this fine capital- oasis of trickling water of Santa Cruz’ auditorium, otherworldly intrigue;
goodies. (p59)
El Ganso Head to this patterns and colour; La Best Vintage Stores Botanical Gardens city park. (p30) and tranquillity. (p68) clusters of palms give come here in springtime
Simple terracotta pots that emulate Guanche Licoreria Puerto A
stylish boutique in the Orotava. (p89) Dicky Morgan A super- Tenerife is home to, arguably, the most stunning Hijuela del Botánico A this Manrique-designed for a show of wildflowers.
designs are popular, along with more sophisticated crammed-full space Best Botanical
capital for punchy bright stylish La Laguna store botanical gardens in the Canaries. They are wonder- delightful small botani- waterpark a welcome (p116)
ceramics and distinctive imported Spanish pottery. of every imaginable La Alpizpa The original
colours and innovative dedicated to vintage art, ful places to while away a few hours, with the added Gardens cal garden in La Orotava green feel. (p35)
Silver jewellery and pearls are both relatively in- deli item, ranging from and colourful crafts here
designs for men. (p43) fashion and decor. (p59) plus of generally ensuring plenty of natural shade. Palmetum A vast collec-
expensive. The company Tenerife Pearl advertises chilli-spiked sauces to are made by locals with
Carey Just the spot for learning disabilities; Los Vintage Store 13 This tion of palms from around
widely and has several outlets on the island. chocolates; Puerto de la Anaga Parque Rural
picking up glitzy acces- Cristianos. (p100) tantalising small space the world comprise this
Cruz. (p75) Worth a Trip
highlights
Gourmet Goods sories or that showstop- has some hidden gems One of the most impressive green spaces of Tenerife Santa Cruz park on the
Olé Espacio Gourmet La Ranilla In a former Around 25km west of La Orotava, the stamp-size town of Icod de los
Gourmet food markets have opened in several ping outfit; Puerto de la among all the vintage is the stunning unspoiled Anaga mountains, a rural seafront. (p35)
Seek out this Los Cris- fisherman’s cottage in Vinos is home to the Drago Park (adult/child €4/2.50; h9.30am-6.30pm; p),
towns and are fun, vibrant spaces where you can Cruz. (p75) jumble; Santa Cruz. natural park in the northeast of the island; note that Jardín Botánico The
tianos stall in the food Puerto de la Cruz, this where you pay to get up close and personal with (apparently) the world’s
eat and drink, as well as shop. In addition there are Tina A wonderfully ec- arty craft shop is ideal (p42) you will need your own wheels in order to do this most famous gardens on
market with its standout scenic corner of the island any justice. Make a day of oldest and largest dragon tree. The park is also home to a pretty botanical
small speciality stores where you can find an excel- centric Los Cristianos for unusual handmade Tenerife with a fascinat-
selection of cold cuts garden and a so-called Guanche trail that includes a cave with disarmingly
lent range of jarred goodies as well as local cheese boutique; selling serious gifts. (p74) it; there are some great picnic spots here, complete ing history and some
and cheese. (p101) lifelike skulls and bones (great for scaring the tots!).
and jamón (ham; you can usually ask for a taste). bling. (p95) with barbecue pits and playgrounds. extraordinary plants and
Survival
way €3.70, 45 minutes) Norte to the centre of with a standard deposit and Spanish, includes exception as they have of- y Best for... The tram y Top Tip To receive %080) (Three Kings Day) 6 Money-Saving Tips
roughly every 40 minutes
from 8.25am to 11pm,
Santa Cruz will cost
around €20. A ride to the
of around €50. a comprehensive list of
routes and times.
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the archipelago.
is by far the most con-
venient mode of travel
Information any discount, photo ID is
essential.
National Police (%062) January
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¨ Be wary on the roads. Viernes Santo (Good
continuing to Tenerife Tenerife Sur airport will between between Santa Local Police (%092) Sunday of the month.
Bicycle lanes in the ¨ Rent your car online ¨ Reduced prices usually Friday) March/April
Norte airport (€9.70, 50 cost around €70. Cruz and La Laguna, due
urban environment are Car before you travel, to both primarily to its frequency: apply for seniors over 60 ¨ Order the menú del día for lunch in restaurants.
minutes) from 8.25am to
sadly minimal, although y Best for... Getting save money and also Business Hours Money Fiesta del Trabajo
every 12 minutes. or 65 (depending on the ¨ Request tap water (un vaso de agua del grifo)
11pm daily. y Top Tip In Tenerife’s (Labour Day) 1 May
beachside boulevards are RWKHEHDWHQWUDFNFDU avoid being in a situa- place) at various muse- Currency Euro (€) rather than the over-priced bottled variety.
¨ A taxi from Tenerife Sur increasingly incorporat- rental is the only option if tion where there are no ¨ Tranvía de Tenerife non-resort towns, shops
ums and attractions and ATMs:LGHO\DYDLODEOH La Asunción de la
you want to get away from (www.metrotenerife.com) typically close from
to the centre of Los Cris- LQJVSDFHIRUELNHULGLQJ available cars for rental occasionally on transport.
tianos and Playa de las Getting Drivers are not always as the main tourist resorts
and really explore the
(it can happen in high is the most enjoyable and around 1.30pm to 5pm
ZKLOHORFDOVWDNHWLPHRXW ¨ Students typically get a
there’s usually a charge
on ATM cash withdrawals
Virgen (Feast of the As-
sumption) 15 August Día de las Islas ¨ 3ROLWHO\UHIXVHWRÀOORXW
Ámericas will cost around courteous as you would season). comfortable way to travel
€26 and €28 respectively. Around OLNH
island.
¨ Third-party motor
between Santa Cruz and
to have a siesta. discount of about half the abroad. Día de la Hispanidad
Canarias (Canary
Islands Day) 30 May
any scratch cards on the
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normal fee, though not
Guide
La Laguna. There are two 5HYLHZVLQWKLVJXLGHERRN (National Day)
¨ Renting a car in Tenerife Moneychangers Located timeshare scam.
insurance is a minimum lines. The main line, Line list the standard opening everywhere. Corpus Christi (the
12 October
From Tenerife Bus LVKLJKO\UHFRPPHQGHG requirement when rent- LVNPORQJZLWK KRXUVIRUKLJKVHDVRQ at the airports and in
Thursday after the eighth ¨ &KHFN\RXUELOOVLQ
Norte Airport Bicycle y Best for... Travelling on the bus service is good ing a car in Tenerife. hours tend to decrease WKHPDMRUUHVRUWV2HU Todos los Santos (All restaurants to ensure
but restricts you time- stops and connects with Electricity Sunday after Easter
y Best for... The obvi- a budget. The bus line is outside that time. General longer opening hours Saints’ Day) 1 November you haven’t been over-
¨ Bus 102 goes to Santa ous! Wind in the hair, wise and exploring inland ¨ Unless you are intend- /LQHZKLFKLVNP Sunday) June
very inexpensive espe- standard opening hours: WKDQEDQNVEXWJHQHUDOO\ charged.
Cruz de Tenerife roughly building up those calf is only really possible with ing to settle in Tenerife, long and has 6 stops, La Inmaculada Con-
cially on the longer routes. worse exchange rates. Día de Santiago Apóstol
every 30 minutes from muscles and enjoying your own wheels. there is no advantage two of which are transfer Banks 8.30am-2pm cepción (Feast of the ¨ Watch your wallet,
stops. Most visitors will (Feast of St James the
12.30am to 11.30pm the freedom to explore at ¨ 7KHÀUVWWKLQJ\RX whatsoever in bringing Monday to Friday Cash%DQNVDQGEXLOGLQJ Immaculate Conception) particularly in crowded
exactly your own pace. VKRXOGNQRZDERXW ¨ All the major interna-
your own vehicle. WDNH/LQHKRZHYHU Apostle, Spain’s patron
(one-way €2.65, 20 Bars 7pm to midnight VRFLHWLHVRHUWKHEHVW 8 December SODFHVOLNHVWUHHWPDUNHWV
the buses here is their tional car-rental com- which connects Santa saint) 25 July. In Santa
minutes), continuing to ¨ Cycling around Tenerife ¨ Gasolina (petrol) is UDWHVWDNH\RXUSDVVSRUW Navidad (Christmas) 25
Canarian name: guagua panies are represented Cruz with Avenida de la 3RVW2FHV 8.30am to Cruz de Tenerife the day
La Laguna (€2.45) and is an extremely pleasant much cheaper in Tenerife Telephone
(pronounced ‘wa-wa’), in Tenerife and there 7ULQLGDG DÀYHPLQXWH 8.30pm Monday to Friday, Credit cards Accepted in December DOVRPDUNVWKHFRPPHP-
Puerto de la Cruz (€4.75). way to see the island and than elsewhere in Spain
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9.30am to 1pm Saturday
for a seamless,
cutlery between meals, unless you are in a top- up a bus timetable. y Best for... Conveni- resorts) Many shops are closed February/March unfortunate enough to
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end restaurant. ¨ Buses are operated and many attractions be robbed, ensure that
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Visiting Churches1HYHUWDNHSKRWRVLQD by TITSA (Transportes EXLOWXSDUHDVDQGNP ¨ $OZD\VXVHRFLDODQG around 35 minutes. Emergency operate on reduced hours
5pm to 9pm Monday John’s Day) 19 March within 24 hours or your code (%00)
Interurbanos de Tenerife SA; in residential zones. HDVLO\LGHQWLÀDEOHWD[LVDW on the following dates:
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¨ Don’t forget to punch to Friday, 10am to 2pm Ambulance (%061) insurance may be void.
www.titsa.com) and cover the airport. Jueves Santo (Maundy Canary Islands code
Greetings Locals generally greet friends and Saturday Año Nuevo 1HZ<HDńV
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the entire island. The bus Day) 1 January ¨ $OZD\VPDNHVXUHYDOX- (%VDPHDV6SDLQ
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service is fast, comfort- National toll-free
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able and inexpensive. 9pm Monday to Friday
cicar.com), a Canary lead you there. FDQUHVXOWLQD½ÀQH number (%900)
hassle-free island
Getting Around Essential Information
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90 Los Cristianos
Worth a Trip:
Holy Candelaria..................................... 44
Parque Nacional del Teide .................. 116
Village Life in Garachico ......................120
Exploring the Anaga Mountains ......... 122
QuickStart
Guide
Tenerife Top Experiences .............................................8
Tenerife Local Life ....................................................... 12
Tenerife Day Planner ................................................... 14
Need to Know............................................................... 16
Tenerife Regions .......................................................... 18
Welcome to
Tenerife
Famed for its southern resorts (and not always in a good
way), the joy of Tenerife is that it offers so much more
than just another sun-flop on the beach. For a true taste
of Tenerife, consider dramatic volcanic scenery, colourful
colonial towns, world-class museums, sophisticated din-
ing and earthy local bars where you’ll still need Spanish to
order a beer.
La Orotava (p76)
DESIREE MARTIN/AFP/GETTY IMAGES ©
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