Chameleon
Chameleon
Chameleon YARN Less than one ball (35 yards) of the following yarn, the shades I used are written in italic:
Yarn A (body) small amount 4-ply/ fingering-weight or sock yarn in light-pinkish tones
or similar/ whatever you wish Lichen & Lace Sock Mini shade Orchid
* - You’ll also need some black 4-ply yarn for the eye detailing
KNITTING NEEDLES see * Pair size 2mm (or 2.5mm if you find knitting with 2mm too tight)
GAUGE 10 stitches x 12.5 rows over 2.5cm/ 1in with 2mm knitting needles and yarn A
EXTRAS Pair 3mm or 4mm black Toy Safety Eyes with plastic (or metal washer)-type backs;
lockable-style stitch markers in various colours (see Page 2); yarn sewing needle
SUPPLIERS
Lichen & Lace Sock Yarn I bought from here - Loop Knitting
Toy Safety Eyes I buy from here - Etsy
© Claire Garland
© Dot Pebbles Knits
Chameleon page 2 Chameleon page 3
inc = increase
dec = decrease
RH/LH = right hand/ left hand RS/WS = right side/ wrong side
skpo = slip one stitch, knit next stitch, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch to decrease by one stitch
kfb = knit into front then into back of stitch to increase by one stitch
pfb = purl into front then knit into back of stitch to increase by one stitch
M1 = make one: with the right-hand needle point pick up the horizontal stitch that lies in-between two
knitted stitches, place this picked up stitch onto the tip of the left-hand needle and knit it to increase by
one
yo = bring yarn over the needle from back to front to make a stitch
Chameleon page 4 Chameleon page 5
B
CREST
B
FIG. 1
Join the tiny seams at the Head Sides/ Throat Enhance the Eye Shape
With WS together working on one side at a time, match the row ends edges that run Cut a short length of the black yarn.
from beneath the eye down to the cast-off edge from Head Side and the cast-off edge Pass the two cut ends through the eye of a yarn sewing needle.
from Throat. - Ref. Fig. 4, join dotted lines A to B for the Left Head Side/ Throat Seam Insert the sewing needle through the knitted eye from front to back and as the
sewing needle emerges slip the needle point into the loop at the front of the
Scrunch up your yarn endings and push them inside the head (the crest should have
eye.
very little or no stuffing inside). At this stage you can also push in and secure the toy
Pull through and as you do so allow the loop to wrap itself over the knitted
eyes as follows:
eye. Give the needle and threaded yarn a gentle tug – this will create more of a
Add Eyes
ball/ bobble shaped eye.
Push your little “pinky” finger into the knitted eyes to push them outwards and create
Pass the sewing needle back into the eye, from the eye back to front then
a bobble.
secure the yarn by threading it into the knitted eye and into the inside of the
Refer to the photo for eye placement and push the eyes into the knitted eye - either
head. - Ref. Fig. 6, 7, 8 & 9
centred or slightly forward or looking to the side (depends on which way your
chameleon is looking!), and, when you are happy with the placements, secure the eyes
permanently with the washer backs. - Ref. Fig. 5
A B
BELLY
Return to the Throat Cast-Off Edge (nearest the nose).
With the top of the head facing towards you, begin at the chameleon’s right
corner of that cast-off edge (this is also on your right), with yarn A, pick up and
knit 9 sts evenly spaced across the cast-off edge from the right corner to the left.
- Ref. Fig. 10, pick up and knit from A to B & Fig. 11
FIG. 10
FIG. 11
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Row 8. Purl
CREST
Row 9. (inc) Kfb, knit to last st, kfb - 19sts
Rows 10-12. Beginning with a purl row work three rows stocking stitch
FIG. 12
Row 13. (inc) Kfb, knit to last st, kfb - 21sts
Rows 14-16. Beginning with a purl row work three rows stocking stitch
Short Row 6. P15, W+Tp i-cord row 1. *RS facing, slide the 5 sts off the right-hand needle onto the
Short Row 7. Knit 18 sts to end of row point of the left hand needle pull the working yarn behind the back of the
Row 17. Purl work ready to knit and knit all 5 sts.**
Row 18. (dec) K8, skpo, k1, k2tog, k8 to end of row - 19sts i-cord rows 2-11. Repeat as i-cord Row 1 from * to ** for ten rows
Row 19. Purl i-cord row 12. (dec) RS facing, slide the 5 sts off the right-hand needle onto
Row 20. (dec) K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog - 17sts the point of the left-hand needle pull the working yarn behind the back of the
Rows 21-24. (dec) Repeat last 2 rows twice - 13sts work ready to knit: skpo, k1, k2tog – 3sts
Row 25. Purl, PM on first and last st of last row for Right and Left Hind Leg i-cord row 13. *RS facing, slide the 3 sts off the right-hand needle onto the
Markers point of the left-hand needle pull the working yarn behind the back of the
Row 26. (dec) K4, skpo, k1, k2tog, k4 to end of row - 11sts work ready to knit and knit all 3 sts.**
Row 27. Purl i-cord rows 14-22. Repeat as i-cord Row 13 from * to ** for nine rows
Row 28. (dec) K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog - 9sts Cut yarn and thread the tail end through the remaining 3 sts, pull up to close
Rows 29-31. Beginning with a purl row work three rows stocking stitch, PM on the end and weave the tail end back into the i-cord.
first and last st of last purl row for Right and Left Tail Markers
Join the Tail Seam
Rows 32-39. Beginning with a knit row work eight rows stocking stitch
Once you’ve passed the tail end through the i-cord you can then join the
Row 40. (dec) K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog - 7sts
remaining Tail Seam by mattress stitching the tail row ends together up to the
Rows 41-47. Beginning with a purl row work seven rows stocking stitch
two Tail Markers. Remove both Tail Markers
Row 48. (dec) K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog - 5sts
Do not Turn the work NOTE: If you want the tail to curl you need to either add some wire to the
tail or roll it up and secure it with a few stitches here and there (mine has wire
NOTE: From now on have RS/ knit-side facing at all time
inside, I also extended the wire to fit against the ‘back bone’, gluing the wire in
Continue to work i-cord as follows: place with stick glue/ adhesive (Pritt Stick)), burying the sharp end inside the
If you are using dpns (double-pointed needles) then simply work each i-cord stuffing in the head).
row by RS facing at all times, slide the sts to the other end of the needle pull the
Join Belly to Tail Seam
working yarn behind the back of the work ready to knit and knit all sts.
WS together, work a stitch or two to join the Belly Point to the top of the tail
However, if you want to work i-cord on two single-pointed needles, seam.
- this is how: You can stuff the yarn endings, after making this stitch or two, into the tail. -
NOTE: Have RS/ knit-side facing at all time Ref. Fig. 14, Page 16, join A to B
Chameleon page 16 Chameleon page 17
A
B
A
WORK A STITCH OR TWO TO
JOIN THE BELLY POINT TO THE
TOP OF THE TAIL SEAM - A TO B
FIG. 14
body) you’ll join the side seams and at the same time stuff the chameleon as JOIN A TO B TO BRING
THE BACK OF THE CREST
follows: A AGAINST THE BACK
Have a sewing needle threaded up with the yarn that you are going to sew the
B
seam with.
Working on one side at a time, start at the Foreleg Marker and count 5 rows
away from the marker. Place your threaded-up needle here, on, or near, the fifth
stitch, then mattress stitch all along from this place to the Hind Leg Marker so
joining Belly to Back. - Ref. Fig. 15, join seam as dotted lines A to B
Left Foreleg
With the Belly and the left side of the chameleon facing you, begin five rows away from
the Left Foreleg Marker/ near or at the left-side Side Seam (the side seam that’s nearest
to the left foreleg marker), with yarn A pick up and knit 5 sts into each of the
B
chameleon’s Belly 5 row end stitches from the side seam to the Left Foreleg Marker. – A A
Ref. Fig. 18, pick up and knit from A to B B
Remove Left Foreleg Marker
Row 1. (inc) Cast on 4 sts for the top of the foreleg, p4, p2tog, p3 to end of row - 8sts
Rows 2 & 3. Beginning with a knit row work two rows stocking stitch
Complete Left Foreleg as Right Foreleg from Row 4.
FIG. 18 FIG. 19
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HIND LEGS i-cord row 8. (inc) RS facing, slide the 5 sts off the right-hand needle onto the
Left Hind Leg point of the left-hand needle pull the working yarn behind the back of the work
With the Back and the left side of the chameleon facing you, begin at the Left Hind ready to knit: k2, kfb, k2 – 6sts
Leg Marker, with yarn A pick up and knit 5 sts into each of the chameleon’s Back 5 i-cord row 9. *RS facing, slide the 6 sts off the right-hand needle onto the point
row end stitches from the marker towards the Tail. – Ref. Fig. 20, Page 24, pick up of the left hand needle pull the working yarn behind the back of the work ready
and knit from A to B to knit and knit all 6 sts.**
Remove Left Hind Leg Marker i-cord rows 10-15. Repeat as i-cord Row 9 from * to ** for six rows
i-cord rows 2-4. Repeat as i-cord Row 1 from * to ** for three rows Cut yarn, thread end through the 3 Second Toe sts, pull up and secure the end.
i-cord rows 5. (dec) RS facing, slide the 6 sts off the right-hand needle onto the point Join the Toe Seam
of the left-hand needle pull the working yarn behind the back of the work ready to Use the Tail End of the First Toe to join the little seam along the row ends then
knit: k2, k2tog, k2 – 5sts weave the tail end back into the i-cord leg.
i-cord row 6. *RS facing, slide the 5 sts off the right-hand needle onto the point of With the second toe you need only to weave the tail end into the toe i-cord,
the left hand needle pull the working yarn behind the back of the work ready to knit then into the leg.
and knit all 5 sts.**
i-cord row 7. Repeat as i-cord Row 6 from * to **
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Row 1. (inc) Cast on 5 sts for the top of the hind leg, p5, p2tog, p3 to end of row - There is no stuffing in the hind legs apart from a few yarn ends in the thigh but you
9sts can add wire if you want your chameleon to be pose-able – make sure the sharp
Rows 2 & 3. Beginning with a knit row work two rows stocking stitch ends of the wires are no going to poke through by sealing the sharp ends with a blob
Complete Right Hind Leg as Left Hind Leg from Row 4. of quick drying glue or a little tiny lump of adhesive putty such as Blu-Tack.
B
A
FIG. 20
FIG. 22
FIG. 21
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FINISHING TOUCHES
For the Detailing at the Top of the Head, secure yarn A near the Crest on one side
of the head and work two straight stitch - similar to tram lines.
Work over the ‘tram lines’ with diagonal couching stitch - in other words work small
stitches over the pair of straight stitches, at a diagonal angle, to join both tram lines
together, at the same time picking up knitted stitches at the top of the to hold the
tram lines in place. – Ref. Fig. 23 & 24
NOTE: There is flexibility around the beak area to sculpt, slightly, with your fingers to
create a more rounded or indeed pointed beak. – Ref. Figs. 26 & 27
FIG. 24
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This prohibits copying or reproducing any of its writing content for your own profit.
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