CHAPTER-2

Charcutierie

Introduction: Charcuterie (from either the French chair cuite = cooked meat,
or the French cuiseur de chair = cook of meat) is the branch of cooking devoted
to prepared meat products such as sausage primarily from pork. The
practice goes back to ancient times and can involve the chemical
preservation of meats; it is also a means of using up various meat scraps.
Hams, for instance, whether smoked, air-cured, salted, or treated by
chemical means, are examples of charcuterie.

The French word for a person who prepares charcuterie is charcutier,

and that is generally translated into English as "pork butcher." This has led
to the mistaken belief that charcuterie can only involve pork. The word
refers to the products, particularly (but not limited to) pork specialties such
as pâ té s, roulades, galantines, cré pinettes, etc., which are made and sold in a
delicatessen-style shop, also called a charcuterie."

SAUSAGE

A simple definition of sausage would be ‘the coarse or finely comminuted

(Comminuted means diced, ground, chopped, emulsified or otherwise reduced
to minute particles by mechanical means) meat product prepared from one or
more kind of meat or meat by-products, containing various amounts of water,
usually seasoned and frequently cured.’
A sausage is a food usually made from ground meat,
often pork, beef or veal, along with salt, spices and other flavouring and
preserving agents filed into a casing traditionally made from intestine, but
sometimes synthetic. Sausage making is a traditional food
preservation technique. Sausages may be preserved by curing, drying (often
in association with fermentation or culturing, which can contribute to
preservation), smoking or freezing.
Types of Sausages:
There are five types/varieties of sausages that are available in the commercial
market.

a) Fresh sausage: They are made from meats that have not been previously
cured. They must be refrigerated and thoroughly cooked before eating
(Brokwurst)
b) Cooked sausage: They are made with fresh meats, and then fully cooked.
They are either eaten immediately after cooking or must be refrigerated
(Mortadella)
c) Cooked-smoked sausage: They are cooked and then smoked or smoke-
cooked. They are eaten hot or cold, but need to be refrigerated. (Bologna,
Frankfurters, Berliners)
d) Fresh-smoked sausage: They are fresh sausages that are smoked. They
should be refrigerated and cooked thoroughly before eating. (Kielbasa – the
Polish sausage, Mettwurst)
e) Dry/semi dry sausage: They are cured sausages that are fermented and
dried. They are generally eaten cold and will keep for a long time.
(Salami)

Parts of sausage

Casings Fillings Additive& preservatives

 Natural -
 From animal body parts →Lean meat →Water
 Collagen →Pork fat →Curing Agent
 Fibrous cellulose →Variety meat →Curing accelerator
 Protein lined cellulose →Sensory enhancers
 Artificial - Plastic & Polymer →Extenders & binders casings

THE CASING
Their primary function is that of a holder for the meat mixture. They also have
a major effect on the mouth feel (if edible) and appearance. The variety of
casings available are:

a. Natural Casings - These are made from the intestines of animals such as
hogs, pigs, wild boar, cattle and sheep. The intestines are flushed clean,
especially from the inside and soaked in a solution of chlorine for
disinfecting them. Sinews, blood vessels and fat clinging to the insides of
the casing must be removed. Natural casings should not be over handled
as they may puncture. They should be refrigerated at all times.

Caul fat, a membrane like lining of the stomach, is also used as a casing
to make the flat sausages, crepinette. The membrane is networked like a
spider web, with streaks of fat. Caul fat is ideal to wrap items of uneven sizes
like the loukanika (patty like Greek sausage) and the crepinette.

Advantages:
 They are semi porous and permit deeper smoke penetration.
 Natural casings absorb flavors and release fats better
 Generally, they hold their shape better and do not burst during cooking.
 Natural casings are edible and need not be peeled before eating
 They have a natural color and have a better appearance.
Hogs casings are the most commonly used. Sheep casings are the highest
quality available. Natural casings need to be protected from extreme
variations in temperature. The ideal storage temperature is 40-45F

b. Collagen Casings:
These are edible casings. They are made from the hye of cattle. Collagen is
obtained from the corium layer that is situated just under the skin of the
animal. The fat, flesh and hair are removed from the hide and it is spit into
two layers by special equipment. The hair side of the hide is used in the
leather industry. The flesh side (corium) is used to make collagen casings.
The material is first ground, and then swelled in an acidic medium. It is then
sieved, filtered and finally extruded into casings.

Advantages:
 They can be manufactured in the sizes that you require. Their consistent
diameter means that they are uniform and aid portion control.
 They are also stronger and are preferred while using machines in the
commercial manufacture of sausages.
 They are ideal for smoking of sausages and require no special pre
preparation and storage.
 They are clean.

c. Fibrous Cellulose Casings:

These are by - products of the food processing industry. Cellulose and fiber
is extracted from the husk, skin, peels, pips and seeds of the fruit and
vegetables during the processing stage. These are processed further to make
casings. These types of casings are also referred to as peelable cellulose. The
fiber adds to the strength of the casing and enables them to handle high
temperatures.

d. Protein lined fibrous cellulose casings:

A protein lining is often added to the inside of the above type of casing. These
casings are ideal for the dried sausages. The protein lining causes the casing
to shrink as the meat is cooked or dried so that it retains the shape of the
sausage. Used mainly for dry or semi-dry sausages. They need to be soaked
in water before stuffing, as the protein tends to stiffen during storage. This
makes it easier to peel off the casing when the finished product is sliced.

e. Plastic casings: They have recently become popular. They are cheaper,
stronger and uniform in size. However, they need to be removed before the
product is served.
 THE FILLING
Meat Component: A variety of meats are used in the sausage making
industry. Each type provides a particular flavor, texture and color in the
product.

Lean meats make up the largest proportion of the meat component

providing the dominant character of the product. The color, flavor, texture
and appearance of the product are determined by these meats. Pork is by far
the most common and popular meat used in sausage making. Beef is also
becoming popular of late, because of its excellent binding properties as well
as its deep red color. Veal, lamb and poultry are also being used in certain
products.

Pork fat adds to the taste, flavor and the texture of the forcemeat. Jowl fat is
obtained from the cheek of the animal. Normally, not more than 30% of the
forcemeat is fat.

Variety meats are the offal of the carcass and can be added into the forcemeat
in the production of sausage. Variety meats used include heart, kidney, tripe,
liver and tongue. These meats have a low binding power.

TYPES OF FILLINGS / FORCEMEATS USED FOR SAUSAGES

There are primarily four types of fillings that are used in the production of
sausages.
1. Coarse minced forcemeat – This forcemeat contains tender and lean meat
as well as fat in the mixture. The ratio is normally 3 parts of meat to one part
of fat. The mixture is coarsely ground and the proportion gives optimum
quality. Only good grade of meat and fat is used, as the mixture is easily
identifiable. Salami is a good example of this type of a filling.

2. Cutter pulverized forcemeat – All types of sausage containing finely ground

forcemeat including frankfurters and cocktail sausages come under this
group. 5 parts of meat and 3 parts of fat are the normal ratio. Second grades
 of meat can be utilized, as they are not identifiable, being ground into a fine
mixture. Meats from older carcasses can also be used.

3. Combination forcemeats – are a mixture of the above two types. One part of
coarse forcemeat and two parts of cutter pulverized forcemeat are normally use.
Pepperoni and chippolatas are examples of sausages that use this type of a
forcemeat. Both good and inferior quality of meat can be used. This makes it
more commercially viable as well.

4. Chunky forcemeat – In this type of a filling, the meat and fat are left in
chunks. Three parts of meat to 1 part of fat are used. This type of a filling is
used for the spicy South American sausages like the chorizo, which have
predominant Portuguese and Spanish influence. The meat and the fat are
dried before the are filled into the casing.

Once the forcemeat is prepared, it is ready for filling into the casing. It
may be done manually or, a sausage filler may be used. A sausage filler is a
machine something like a mincing machine, which has a nozzle with
changeable diameters. The rolled up casing is fitted onto the nozzle and the
machine is started. The casing then un - rolls as it fills up. A stapling machine
cum stapler then separates the sausages into links and seals the ends. Heat
treatment is used in the sealing process.

Besides meat, which is the traditional filling, nowadays a host of other

ingredients are also used. Poultry seafood, vegetables, lentils and soybean
are being introduced.

ADDITIVES AND PRESERVATIVES: Non meat ingredients are food item,

which are added to the filling before stuffing. They enhance the flavor and
the color, slow or prevent bacteria growth, act as a preservative and
increase the volume and bulk of the mixture.
a. Water is usually added to the sausage mixture during the blending stage.
It improved the mixing and helps to extract the proteins from the meat. It is
used in all sausage mixtures. Chilled water or ice also helps to reduce
temperature of the forcemeat to prevent proteins in meat from coagulating
while grinding.

b. Curing Agents are necessary to inhibit the growth of bacteria (especially

clostridium botulinum – an anaerobic bacteria which can cause death) and
improve the shelf life. They also help to improve, fix and retain the color of the
forcemeat. The two common curing agents are sodium nitrate and nitrite.
Nitrite is used in cured, cooked or smoked products. Nitrate is used in dried
sausages.

c. Curing Accelerators such as ascorbic acid, sodium erythorbate and citric

acid are used in cured, cooked and fermented products. As their name
suggests, they speed up the curing process.

d. Sensory Enhancers are a variety of items that are used to enhance the
flavor, smell, color, feel and mouth feel. Salt is used in all sausage products
for the enhancement of flavor and as an aid in the extraction of protein from
the meats.

Sweeteners (both nutritive and non-nutritive) are often added to the

forcemeat. Non nutritive sweeteners such as saccharin and sorbitol add
sweetness and aid in peeling. Nutritive sweeteners such as cane or beet sugar,
dextrose and corn syrup are also used.

Flavorings for sausage include spices, plant, vegetable and milk

protein, yeast extract and even mustard flour. These add flavor, taste,
increase the volume and act as binders.
 Smoke contributes to the taste and flavor of the product. MSG and
nucleotides and other flavor enhancers are often used in mass production of
sausage but are not widely used or common.

Other sensory enhancers include bacterial cultures, enzymes,

phosphates and acidulants. They serve a variety of purposes including
flavoring, softening of the tissues, juice retention and are used only in the
mass commercial production of sausages and not in the hotel kitchens.

e. Stability enhancers are used in sausage making to protect the flavor of the
product, to slow down mold growth and to extend and bind the product.

f. Extenders and binders are usually either animal based, fermentation based
and cereal grain based. Gelatin, stock and non – fat dry milk are the animal
based ones used most often in the kitchen.

SOME FAMOUS SAUSAGES:

French (Saucisse):
 CREPINETTE: Crépinette is a small, flattened sausage, sometimes
referred to as a sausage parcel. It is similar in shape to a sausage patty,
circular, and flattened. It is made from minced or
ground pork, turkey, veal, lamb or chicken, and can even be made
from truffles. Cré pinettes are wrapped in caul fat, rather than wrapped in
a casing. It is usually cooked with an outer coating of bread and sauté ed
in butter.

English Sausages (Bangers):

 CAMBRIDGE: An English sausage made from pork and flavored with
herbs and spices, sage, nutmeg and cayenne pepper.

 HAGGIS is a Scottish sausage served on festive occasions. It is made from

the offal of sheep and oats. It is stuffed into the inner lining of the
stomach
- the thymus and needs prolonged slow cooking.
German (Wurst):
 BIERSCHENKEN a German sausage containing ham or ham fat +
peppercorns and pistachio

 BLACKPUDDING/BLOOD SAUSAGE: There are many versions of this

sausage or pudding, made out of pigs blood. The British one has oatmeal.
The German version is called Blutwurst and the French one is known as
Boudin Noir. The Spanish call it Morcilla, the Irish Drisheen and the
Italians, Biroldo. They are usually sliced and sold.

 BOCKWURST: A delicately flavored, highly perishable German white

sausage consisting of fresh pork and veal, chopped chives parsley, egg
and milk.

 FRANKFURTER: An ancestor of the hot dog, it is made of lean pork and is

very finely ground. Vienna sausage is a small cocktail frankfurter

Italian:

 BOLOGNA: There are a number of versions of this popular Italian

sausage. It usually has a mixture of smoked pork and beef. The English
version is called Polony.

 MORTADELLA a bland Italian sausage from Bologna, made of pork and

flavored with pepper, pistachio or coriander. Ready to eat, it is served sliced

 PEPPERONI an Italian sausage made of pork and beef, very spicy.

 SALAMI there is a vast range of salami sausage available. These include:

Birnenformige, Edel, Land and Netz from Germany
Alesandre, Calabrese, Cotto, Felinetti, Genoa, Napoli,Milano, Easter
Nola,andToscana from Italy
 Arles from France. All are made of uncooked meat, which may be pork,
beef or a mixture of the two and variously flavored. Salami may be air
dried or smoked or both. It is ready to eat, thinly sliced and eaten cold.
However, chopped and sliced salami finds its way into many Italian
dishes.

 ZAMPONE an Italian sausage from Modena, where the meat is stuffed into
the skin of the leg of pig trotters.

Spain:
 CHORIZO Made from small pieces of chopped port, fat and peppers which
give it its characteristic colour and flavour, garlic, ginger and other spices
and herbs.
 FORCEMEATS – TYPES PREPARATION USES

Forcemeat: (Farce = Stuffing) Forcemeat is a mixture of ground, lean meat,

game, poultry, fish or vegetables emulsified with fat and seasoned.

The emulsification can be accomplished by either by grinding, sieving,

or pureeing the ingredients. The emulsification may either be smooth or
coarse, depending on the desired consistency of the final product.

Forcemeats are used in the production of numerous items found in

charcuterie, such items include quenelles, sausages, pâ té s, terrines,
roulades, and galantines.

 Pate French for ‘Paste’.

 Terrine from Latin ‘Terra’ meaning ‘earth’.
 Galantine from French ‘Galat’ mening gorgeous or ‘Galine’ meaning
chicken.
 Ballotine from Italian ‘Balla’ mening ‘ball’
 Quenelle from French ‘Knodel’ meaning ‘dumpling’
 Roulade form French ‘rouler’ meaning ‘to roll’
 Mousse / Mousseline French meaning ‘Froth’.

Composition of the Forcemeat:

Forcemeat

Meat Binder •Seasoning

Additives
 Lean pork •Flavouring
 Pork fat •Garnish

a. The dominant meat or basic meat constitutes 40% of the meat component
from which all fat, bones, skin, sinews and gristle must be removed.
b. Lean pork contributes to bulk and flavour and is app 30% of the
component.

c. Pork fat gives richness and smoothness to the product and has binding
qualities. It constitutes 30% of the meat.

d. Binding agents are needed to lighten the farce and give it a finer texture.
These are typically used in making of poultry, fish and vegetable farce. Game,
veal and pork have their own binding qualities from the proteins of the
meat. Binding can be made up of egg yolks, fresh bread soaked in milk,
cream, thickened bé chamel (Panada), beurre manie or even cooked rice.

e. Seasoning is in the form of salt. Roughly 20gms salt/ kg of mixture is a

guideline. Sometime MSG is also added.

f. Flavourings are in the form of herbs (thyme, dill etc) and spices (clove, mace,
nutmeg, cinnamon etc).

g. Garnish can be a central garnish such as a lamb fillet in the lamb farce
which provides a visual focal point when the farce is sliced or a garnish can
be interspersed such as pistachio, crushed peppercorns, diced truffle,
gherkins, olives etc

h. Additives are used to enhance colour, increase shelf life, contribute to taste
and prevent / delay the fat from going rancid. These include nitrates and
nitrites of sodium and potassium, BHT and BHA etc.

Types of Forcemeat:

 Campagne / Country style forcemeat: The farce has a dense, coarse,

texture, a characteristic which resulted from the lack of sophisticated
equipment in the early days and was chopped with two knives. Today
this is usually a combination of coarsely ground farce and a smooth
ground farce so that chunks of meat are visible in the mass of the mixture.
It is highly seasoned commonly with onion, garlic, black pepper, juniper
berries, bay leaf and nutmeg.
 Straight / Basic forcemeats are produced by progressively grinding equal
parts pork and pork fat with a third, dominant meat, which can be pork or
another meat such as veal, duck, rabbit etc. Poultry and fish are normally
not used. It is more refined, having a finer, less dense texture. The
flavourings used are shallots, wine, brandy and allspice.

 Gratin forecemeat is the name given to forcemeats that are prepared with
pre-cooked meats i.e. light searing or browning (hence the name gratin) or
complete cooking before grinding. The density of the forcemeat is slightly
lighter than straight forcemeat because of loss of binding power due to
cooking. To compensate extra eggs are added.
Mousseline style forcemeats are prepared sing lean white or light
meats and fish. Chicken, rabbit, shellfish, sole and trimmed lean pork fillet
is ideal to use for this type of forcemeats. The most distinctive feature is
the type of fat used i.e. cream combined with the processing of the
components to an ultra fine consistency resulting in an extremely light
and smooth product. Flavourings used are shallots, white wine and
ground white pepper.

 5/4/3 Emulsion forcemeat: The name is derived from the ratio of

components of forcemeats – 5 parts meat, 4 parts fat & 3 parts ice. It is
used extensively in making sausages like frankfurters, bologna etc. This
can be made from almost any kind of meat. However fish is not
considered suitable. It is a commercial mixture and a perfectly smooth
paste. Seasoning and flavourings vary from one manufacturer to other.
Pork jowl fat is common fat used and processing of the components of the
forcemeat with ice results in a very strong emulsion of meat and fat. A
variety of binders can be used.

Steps in making basic forcemeat –

a. Gather mise-en-place (dominant meat, ratio, seasoning, garnish etc)
b. Marination (to impart flavour)
c. Grinding (Use cold / chilled equipments to grind, progressively from
larger discs to finer ones, refrigeration after each grinding)
d. Pass through a sieve to remove any trace of sinew, gristle or skin.
e. Mixing (Adding flavours and binding)
f. Taste test (To check seasoning as cold intensifies flavours)
g. Cooking as desired.

The binders include eggs, non-fat dry milk powder, cream and panadas.
A panada can be made from starchy ingredients which aid in the binding
process; these include well-cooked potatoes which have been pureed, milk
soaked bread, or thick bé chamel.

Uses of forcemeat: Forcemeat is the major component in preparation

of various charcutiere products such as pates, terrines, mousse,
quennels, mousselines, galantines, steaks etc.
 BRINES, CURES & MARINADES

Marinades: A marinade is a seasoned liquid with various aromatics in

which meat, poultry, game and even vegetables are steeped. The function of
a marinade is to add flavor and taste to the food, to act as a tenderizer and
break down the connective tissue (done by the acids in the marinade) and to
act as a preservative. Marinades are made up of the following components:

 Acid – The marinade liquid contains an acidic content with ingredients

such as vinegar, lemon juice, wine or enzymatic pineapple juice or papaya
paste/juice.
 Oil – It could be olive oil, salad oil, peanut oil or even plain veg
 etable oil. Flavoured oils such as garlic oil, herb oil or chilli oil can also be
used. The oil in the marinade helps to prevent moisture loss.
 Aromatics – Ingredients such as herbs, spices or proprietary sauces.
 Seasoning – Primarily salt, sea salt, black salt, rock salt and grain salt.
The length or time for marination depends on several factors:
- The type of food ingredients – beef takes longer time to marinade than
chicken. Also cuts are important….tenderloin needs little marination
time as compared to rump.
- The temperature of marination – Best at room temperature but for
certain dishes if overnight or longer marination is required it is to be
done in refrigerator.
- The size of meat
Marination should be done in non corrosive containers such as glass or
stainless steel and avoid plastic or aluminum.

Types of Marinade –
a) Cooked Marinade: A cooked marinade, because it is heated, allows the
aromats to release their full flavor. A cooked marinade is best stored
under refrigeration. Such a cooked marinade is used in German meat
preparation sauerbaaten. E.g.
 Carrots 100 gms Rosemary a pinch
Shallots 50 gms Bayleaf 1-2
Peppercorns 10-12 Water 1 litre
Cloves 2-3 White wine 500 ml
Parsley stalk 4-5 Vinegar 50 ml
Thyme a pinch Oil 100 ml
Combine all ingredients except oil and simmer for an hour. Cool & add oil.

b) Uncooked Marinade: Uncooked marinades should be prepared for

instant use. If necessary, these should also be refrigerated.

Cures: Curing is a process of surrounding meat, fish or poultry with salt. The
salt contains curing agents and is called curing salts. Curing is a method of
preservation and the process dehydrates the meat and thereby preserves it.
The salt is the most important part of the composition. It inhibits the growth
of the bacteria, yeasts and molds. Salt also add flavor. Common salt (NaCl)
makes up 94% of curing salts. The other 6% are the curing agents which
include:
- Nitrates and Nitrites of Sodium and Potassium. These control the growth
of botulinum
- Salt Petre which is a nitrite and reacts with the pigment in meat and gives
it a pink color. Notice the color of Ham.
- Sugar will reduce the strong flavor of salt, lowers the PH variance, and it
add flavor and taste
- BHT and BHA are two anti oxidants which retard the onset of rancidity of
fat. If the food to be cured has a high fat content (bacon), these are
required.
- Sodium Erythorbate is also a preservative
- MSG is a flavor enhancer.
- Spices and herbs which contribute to the taste and the flavor.
Types of cures:
a) Dry cures are those which are applied directly to the food. Dry curing is a
prolonged process and the cure needs to penetrate into the food. The
thickness and the weight of the food needs to be considered. When ready,
the excess cure is rinsed off.

b) A Wet Cure is when the curing salts are added to a brine solution. The
process is much shorter as due to osmosis, the penetration is much faster.
Brines: A wet cure is also called a ‘brine’, although brine literally means a
salt solution. Brining is a process similar to marination in which meat is
soaked in brine before cooking. Brining makes cooked meat moister by
hydrating the cells of its muscle tissue before cooking, via the process of
osmosis, and by allowing the cells to hold on to the water while they are
cooked, via the process of denaturation. The brine surrounding the cells has
a higher concentration of salt than the fluid within the cells, but the cell
fluid has a higher concentration of other solutes. This leads salt ions to
diffuse into the cell, whilst the solutes in the cells cannot diffuse through the
cell membranes into the brine. The increased salinity of the cell fluid
causes the cell to absorb water from the brine via osmosis. The salt
introduced into the cell also denatures its proteins. The proteins coagulate,
forming a matrix that traps water molecules and holds them during
cooking. This prevents the meat from dehydrating. Brining is also a
method of curing and preservation and
can be achieved by any of the following methods:

 Steeping - In steeping, the food item is immersed in the brine solution

for a period of time, turning over occasionally to ensure even brining.

 Injection - Injection involves a brine pump wherein the brine is

injected directly into the muscle fiber thereby reducing the time it
takes to achieve curing/salting.
  Spraying - Spray brining is when the brine solution is sprayed by
injection at several points in the muscle at the same time. This method
is even faster than the injection method.

The PH of the Brine : The alkalinity/acidity factor of meat that is to be salted

is of extreme importance in obtaining a good result. The ph factor is highly
influenced by the carbohydrate in the meat. If the ph (acid) is low, it is good
for salted meats such as ham and bacon. They have less tendency to develop
bacteria which cause the spoilage of meat. Meat with a relatively high ph
(alkaline) is ideal for cooked salted meats such as sausages, cooked ham,
pate and galantine. They retain the soft pink color that is ideal for
presentation. Meat having a relatively high acidity will take on a darker
color.

The Water: It is the main ingredient. Water has great importance in the
composition of the brine. For optimum results, water should be very clear,
free of pollution and low mineral content. Hard waster should be avoided and
is not recommended in the making of brine solutions.

The Salt Petre (KNO3): The old brine formula consisted of salted water
aromated with herbs and spices. However, the presentation and the
appearance was not appetizing and the meat rather difficult to slice and kept
breaking into small pieces. In order to avoid these inconveniences, it was
found that the addition of a small proportion of salt petre in the brine would
solve these problems. The meat changed from an ugly grey - brown to a
pleasant pink color. It also held well together so that it could be sliced
properly.
The Aroma and Spicing of the Brine: Brine should never have a strong or bad
odor. On the contrary, it should give a pleasant smell and an appetizing aroma
to the meat.
Storage of Brine: Brine should be stored in non corrosive containers such as
steel, enamel, glass. Avoid aluminum and plastic. Fix a tap to the base of a
brine container so that it can be drained easily. The strictest rules of hygiene
must be applied to ensure that bacteria growth is minimised. Do not use
bare hands and put pre washed meats into the brine. Brine can be used up to
4 times.
Method of Mixing the Brine:

 Heat the water to boiling point, but it is not necessary to keep it boiling.
 Add all ingredients except the spices and the herbs.
 Skim the top of the liquid.
 Stir frequently to cool down the brine and dissolve the ingredients.
 Strain through a tammy.
 Tie the aromats in a sachet and add to the brine the next day.
 HAM, BACON & GAMMON

Ham, bacon and gammon, all are obtained from pig. Hence to differentiate
between all three it is important to first understand the cuts of pork. There
are different systems of naming for cuts in America, Britain and France.
Ham and bacon are made from fresh pork by curing with salt (pickling) and/or
smoking.

 Bayonne ham: It is air-dried salted ham prepared from pigs reared in

Bayonne, a city in France
 Black Forest ham: A German ham, which is seasoned, dry cured and then
smoked over sawdust and wood shavings form fir tree.
 Westphalia ham: German ham from pigs that are fed on corn. The meat is
dry cured and smoked with branches of juniper berry tree.
 Parma ham or Prosciutto: A popular ham from Parma region in Italy and
can be cured or cooked. Parma ham has a unique flavor because the pigs
are fed with whey leftover after making Parmesan cheese.
 Serrano ham: Ham from Spain from special white pigs. These hams are
slightly sweet in taste due to very less amount of salt used in curing
process.
 San Daniele: Similar to Parma ham but with less salt.

Green bacon is a fresh, non-smoked style of cured bacon. As this recipe contains no nitrates, the bacon
will stay fresh for only a week after curing. Green bacon is versatile and can be used in place of regular
bacon in pies, sandwiches, and tarts

INGREDIENTS
2 tbsp coriander seeds
800 gm coarse rock salt
200 gm brown sugar
2 tbsp coarsely crushed black peppercorns
2 fresh bay leaves
1.4 kg piece of pork belly
METHOD
Dry-roast coriander seeds in a small frying pan (30 seconds). Coarsely crush in a mortar and pestle and
combine with remaining ingredients except for pork. Scatter a third of the salt mixture in a non-reactive
container that fits pork snugly, then place pork on top. Scatter with remaining salt, cover and refrigerate,
turning occasionally, until meat is cured and feels firm (5-6 days). Drain pork (discard liquid), rinse off
excess salt and pat dry with absorbent paper, then refrigerate, uncovered, until dry (1-2 hours). Green
bacon will keep refrigerated in an airtight container for a week.
Bacon is a cured meat prepared from a pig. It is first cured using large
quantities of salt, either in a brine or in a dry packing; the result is fresh
bacon (also green bacon). Fresh bacon may then be further dried for weeks
or months (usually in cold air), boiled, or smoked. Fresh and dried bacon
must be cooked before eating. Boiled bacon is ready to eat, as is some
smoked bacon, but either may be cooked further before eating. Bacon may
be eaten smoked, boiled, fried, baked, or grilled, or used as a minor
ingredient to flavor dishes. Bacon is also used for barding and larding roasts,
especially game birds.
Bacon is prepared from several different cuts of meat. Rashers (slices) differ
depending on the primal cut from which they are prepared:
Side bacon, or streaky bacon, comes from pork belly. It is very fatty
with long layers of fat running parallel to the rind. This is the most
common form of bacon in the United States. Pancetta is Italian streaky
bacon, smoked or aqua (unsmoked), with a strong flavor. It is generally
 rolled up into cylinders after curing. In America unsmoked streaky
bacon is often referred to as side pork.
 Middle bacon, from the side of the animal, is intermediate in cost, fat
content, and flavor between streaky bacon and back bacon.
 Back bacon (called Irish bacon or Canadian bacon in the United
States) comes from the loin in the middle of the back of the pig. It is a
very lean, meaty cut of bacon, with less fat compared to other cuts. It
has a ham- like texture. Most bacon consumed in the United Kingdom
is back bacon.
 Cottage bacon is thinly sliced lean pork meat from a shoulder cut that
is typically oval shaped and meaty. It is cured and then sliced into
round pieces for baking or frying.
 Jowl bacon is cured and smoked cheeks of pork.
 Collar bacon is taken from the back of a pig near the head.
 Hock, from the hog ankle joint between the ham and the foot.
 Picnic bacon is from the picnic cut, which includes the shoulder
beneath the blade. It is fairly lean, but tougher than most pork cuts.
 GALANTINES

Galantine, by classical definition, is de-boned poultry, including rabbit,

and sometimes game, which is stuffed with forcemeat. The term ‘galantine’
comes from the French word ‘Galant’ which refers to the elegant nature of the
presentation of the product and which means gorgeous or beautiful. Some
books refer to the origin of the dish to the term ‘geline or galine’ which was
the old French term for chicken which was the preferred meat that was used
for galantine.
Chilled and glistening, the galantine contains flavourful forcemeat
often with abstract or concentric patterned with fruits, nuts and even truffle
at times. Cylindrical in shape, it has a natural casing of the skin of the poultry
that was used. It is coated with aspic jelly to enhance its eye appeal.
Galantines are always served cold either as an entré e or as a part of the cold
meat platter on the buffet. Sometimes, they can also be served as an
appetizer with a plate garnish of a salad.

Making of galantines – Classically, full sized birds (capons) weighing between

1.2 to 1.5 kgs are used for preparing chicken galantine. The preparation of
galantine is divided into four stages:
 Pre-preparation: In the first stage it is necessary to de-bone the meat that
is being used. This must be done with precision to maintain the quality
and yield of the mat and also to retain appearance of the skin. The meat is
then seasoned lightly and a sprinkling of gelatin acts as the binder.
 Assembly: To assemble the galantine, the forcemeat must be placed /
spread over the meat carefully and then the garnish placed neatly. The
garnish may be either a central garnish (hard boiled egg or an inlay of
different strips of meat) or it may be a dispersed garnish consisting of
bits and pieces of nuts, olives, capers, brunoise of vegetable. The placing
and rolling must be done carefully and with precision. If not the result
will be a poorly formed galantine and will have an uneven texture.
 Cooking: The rolling is done with the help of muslin cloth or aluminum foil
and is then secured. The correct cooking method used for galantine is
 poaching. The stock can be made from the bones of the carcass obtained
when deboning. Boiling will lead to a coarser texture and drier meat. It is
important to monitor the temperature of the stock and the galantine itself
with the help of a meat thermometer. The cooking time will depend upon
the type of meat used as well as on the quantity that is being poached. The
temperature of the stock should not exceed 190°F. Once the internal
temperature of the galantine has reached approximately 160-170°F the
cooking can stop. Allow the galantine to cool in the stock itself, preferable
overnight.
 Presentation: Traditionally, the galantine will be covered with aspic jelly.
This can be used as a center piece on the buffet or on the cold meat
platter. Alternately, it can be slices unadorned and served as an appetizer
with cubes of aspic jelly and a salad. The aspic can be prepared out of the
poaching liquid or made separately with stock.

BALLOTINE

The terms galantine and ballotine are often confused. Both are
similarly prepared but they are cooked and served differently. The ballotine
is also boneless meat stuffed and rolled in to a ballot or bundle. Like the
galantine, they are also poached, but may also be baked or braised in their
skins and served hot as entrees

The ballotine can be considered the smaller relative of the galantine. A

ballotine is prepared from a boneless leg of poultry and is stuffed with
forcemeat.
The ballotine is an excellent method for using the leg portions of poultry
when the breast portions have been used for other purpose. The legs of the
poultry are removed leaving the skin and the meat intact. Forcemeat is stuffed
into the pocked that forms when the leg bone is removed.
Although the ballotine is baked or braised or even roasted, they are
usually served cold after coating with aspic.
 ROULADE
The only criteria for a food item to be called roulade is that it should be
rolled.
The term roulade can be applied to contemporary products prepared in
a manner similar to a galantine yet do not fully satisfy the definition of a
classical galantine.
An example of a roulade can be a flank steak that has been pounded,
spread with a sausage paste and then rolled like a swiss roll, secured and
cooked. Or, it could be a large fillet of fish, flattened lightly and spread with a
tuna / salmon paste and then rolled and secured. Roulades can be poached,
baked braised or even roasted and can be served hot but usually are
presented cold. The varieties of roulades are unlimited.

PATÉ

Pâ té is a mixture of cooked ground meat and fat minced into a spreadable

paste. Common additions include vegetables, herbs, spices, and
either wine or brandy (often cognac or armagnac). Pâ té can be served either
hot or cold, but it is considered to develop its fullest flavor after a few days of
chilling.

 Paté en croute (paste in crust): The term refers to forcemeat baked in

a crust, usually in a rectangular mould, something like a loaf tin. In
French it is called Simply defined, a paté is a paste of finely chopped or
pounded or pureed seasoned meat, which generally is liver.
Among the wide variety of ingredients used in the making of a paté are
liver, a variety of meats, truffle and seasoning. Goose and duck liver, bring a
characteristic flavor to the paté . Chicken livers are the most common these
days but sheep and calf liver are often used as well. Truffle will make the
paté special. Paté s can be prepared in advance, stored and then used as and
when required.
Making of Paté:
1. For the crust, a dough must be
prepared.
Paté dough:
Flour 1 kg
Butter 150 gm
Margarine 200 gm
Baking powder 15 gm
Water 250 ml (approx.)
Vinegar 25 ml
Eggs 3no.
Salt 2 tsp

 Sift the flour and the baking powder.

 Rub the shortening and the butter into the flour
 Combine and add the remaining ingredients into the flour.
 Mix until the dough is formed and knead till smooth.
 Shape the dough into a flat rectangle. Refrigerate overnight.

Note: paté dough can also be made out of yeast and brioche dough.

2. The Farce for Paté:

The meats used in a paté are first marinated and at times pre cooked.
The livers must be handled carefully and the gall bladder, veins and blood
clots if any must be removed. Ideally, the livers must be soaked in milk for 24
hours (refrigerated). They are then drained and seasoned. Sometimes, a small
quantity of bread crumbs is added to the farce to lighten the mixture. Non fat
dry milk (powder) could also be used. It adds a creamy texture to the mixture.
A meat glaze or aspic could also be substituted as a binder and will contribute
a rich gelatinous quality to the farce. For that extra fragrance, a small quantity
of wine or brandy could be added at the last minute before combining and
processing.
3. Assembling the paté:
 Lightly oil the mould.
 Roll the dough and line the mould leaving an overhang on the four sides.
 Carefully press the dough into the corners of the mould.
 Refrigerate the lined mould for at least an hour.
 Fill the mould with the prepared farce ½ inch short of the top edge.
 The forcemeat should be placed in the mould in several layers. Use a
palette knife to press into place. This will reduce the risk of air pockets in
the finished product. There may be a central or dispersed garnish.
 Fold the overhanging dough over the top of the mould and the seal.
 Carefully cut two small holes from the top and provide chimneys for the
excess steam to escape during the cooking.

4. Cooking the Paté: The cooking takes place in two stages

 Browning stage: Cover the surface with foil and place the mould in a pre-
heated 475F oven for approximately 10 minutes. Remove from the oven
and allow to rest for 15 minutes. The surface should show hints of brown.
 Cooking stage: Uncover the pate and lightly egg wash the top of the pate.
Place in a pre heated 375F oven until an internal temperature of 170F
has been reached. Temperature can be taken through the chimney. Make
sure the thermometer reaches the center of the paté .

5. Finishing the Paté:

The paté is not complete when removed from the oven. It must now be filled
with aspic. First, allow the paté to cool to room temperature. This will allow
for the fat and the juices to be re absorbed into the meat. Through the
chimneys, carefully pour in good quality aspic. The aspic will slowly be
absorbed into the meat and will fill the sides (where the meat has shrunk),
and any crevice and air pockets that might have formed. Allow the paté to
chill overnight before removal and slicing.
  Pate de Foie Gras

Foie Gras, if literally translated, means ‘fat liver’. The geese is placed
in pens and given plenty to eat. The feed consists of beetroot,
artichokes, carrots, corn, cooked potatoes, maize, oats and beans
along with plenty of fresh water. This specially crafted diet contains
a high quantity of vitamins and at times the bird needs to be force
fed. After 2 to 3 weeks, the goose liver swells slowly and when the
farmer/breeder thinks it is sufficiently ready, the bird is killed and the liver
removed.

Once the goose livers have been selected, they are sent to the manufacturers
of foie gras and in some special cases, directly to chefs who make their own
foie gras. Generally, foie gras can be bought either fresh or tinned/canned.

In the processing of foie gras, the bile is first removed and the livers are then
carefully sorted and graded. Some livers may be ideal for steaming and others
for baking. Those which are suitable for light steaming, would quickly become
dry if they are cooked in the oven. The color, texture and firmness are also
important.

The network of nerves are removed from the livers which are then put to soak
in water and are then drained and seasoned. The livers are stuffed with truffle
and then steamed or baked in the oven. Livers of lesser quality or the wrong
color (the right color is shell pink) are pulverised into a mousse and can be
used as a meat spread for sandwiches. The livers can be packed in tins or in
earthen jars.

The delicate nature of Foie Gras necessitates particular care in serving. It

should be served cold and at the beginning of the meal with a crisp white
wine. Reisling, Champagne, White Burgundy or even a Bordeaux of good
vintage is ideal. Red wine should definitely be avoided as it will detract from
the taste instead of sharpening it.
Foie gras can be garnished with aspic jelly and with nothing else. Foie gras is
best presented on the plate in the shape of shells, scooped out of the
jar/can/terrine with a teaspoon. It can also be served in slices. Certain types
of foie gras are surrounded by a layer of white fat. The connoisseur will remove
this, knowing that it has been used only to ensure its perfection and to
preserve it.

Foie gras was made traditionally in the region of Alsace in the town of
Strasbourg in Eastern France. In fact, the correct name should read Pate de
‘Foie Gras de Strasbourg’. Legally, all foie gras from the region must contain
a maximum 75% goose liver and a minimum 5% truffle, to be accorded the
name. Like Champagne and other wines, an appellation or controlling body
governs the production, manufacture, sales, pricing and marketing of the Foie
Gras.

 Commercial Pate: In French or Belgian cuisine, pâ té may be baked in

a crust as pie or loaf, in which case it is called pâté en croûte or baked
in a terrine (or other mold), in which case it is known as pâté en
terrine.

In Netherlands, Finland, Germany, Hungary, Sweden, and Austria, some

liver pâ té s are shaped as a soft, often spreadable sausage, called leverworst
(Dutch) or Leberwurst (German). In the United States these are sometimes
called "liverwurst".

Others are spreadable as most French or Belgian pâ té ; these types are

more popular in the UK. In Poland pasztet is made from poultry, fish,
venison, ham, or pork with eggs, flour, bread crumbs, and a varied range
of additions, such as pepper, tomato sauce, mushrooms, spices,
vegetables, ginger, nutmeg, cheese, or sugar.

 Pate Maison: Pate prepared as per ‘house recipe’.

 TERRINE

Terrines are the close cousins of the paté . The

terrine vessel is an oblong earthern ware mould.
As mentioned earlier, this was the original vessel
that was use and this is how terrine got its name.
However, nowadays, enamel, cast iron, clay,
porcelain and china vessels are common. Since
the terrine takes its name from the vessel and not
the mixture used, the variety is limitless. The
forcemeat used in a terrine is usually uncooked
and is slightly coarser compared to a paté .
Various force Meats can be used and layered one over the other. Line the mold
with strips of pork fat or bacon. Care should be taken that the variety of
forcemeats used complement each other. The binding used in a forcemeat for
a terrine is normally eggs or gelatin.

TRUFFLE
Truffle is known by several names such as Black Diamond and
Children of the God. The truffle is a fungus fruit that matures underground.
However, not all underground fungi are truffle. The real story of the growth
of truffle is a strange one. The truffle is the fruit of a widely spreading
system of colorless, microscopic branching threads that penetrate the soil
for distances that are measurable in yards. These threads known as hyphae,
touch the furtherest tips of the roots of trees and shrubs. The interaction of
roots and hyphae forms a compound structure part plant and part fungus.
However, this cannot further develop without vitamins and minerals. When
the hyphae have absorbed enough material from the soil and plant, they
proceed to develop fruit. The fruit which develops from a knot of hyphae is
called a truffle.

Nowadays, specially trained dogs and hogs are used to detect truffle.
Truffles vary in color from a smooth white surface to a dark brown or black.
They are usually round, although some may resemble ginger. The interior of
the truffle has elaborate chambers. The flavor of the truffle can vary
considerably. Some have a touch of garlic in its flavor.

In France, the region of Perigord less than 50 miles from the Bordeaux
region is well known for its crop of truffle. In Italy, Piedmont in the Umbria
region produces almost the entire crop of Italian white truffle.
Geographically, truffle will occur near the wine growing regions.
Surprisingly, a good year for wine means a bad year for truffle and vice
verca.

The composition of truffle is 72% water, 8-10% protein, 4% fat, 13-15%

carbohydrates and 2-5% mineral traces.

Contrary to popular belief, the white truffle, unlike its black cousin
should never be cooked as it may loose its fragrance if subjected to heat. Fresh
truffle should be firm to touch and not spongy. They impart a distinct aroma
when fresh. Because of their exorbitant prices, their usage in the kitchen and
the garde manger is fairly limited.

Truffles are used to produce truffle oil and truffle vodka which are used in
cooking.

Varieties:
 "Black truffle" or "black Pé rigord truffle" (Tuber melanosporum)
 The "white truffle" or "Alba madonna" (Tuber magnatum) comes from
the Langhe area of the Piedmont region in northern Italy
 The black summer or burgundy truffle (Tuber aestivum/uncinatum) is
found across Europe and is prized for its culinary value.
 MOUSSE & MOUSSELINE
Mousse
A mousse can be defined as a mixture of cooked ingredients, pureed
and held together with gelatin, velouté sauce, mayonnaise or aspic jelly, then
enriched with cream and sometimes flavoured with wine. The mousse is
always served cold often attractively moulded.
A mousse is made with cooked meat, fish, poultry and with vegetables.
The method of preparation is the same for all recipes whatever the ingredients
used. The ingredients are first pureed then mixed with a binding agent like
gelatin. The cream and seasoning are blended in mousse is often served on
the cold buffet and at times for luncheon.

A dessert mousse is a form of dessert typically made from egg

(classically no cream, only egg yolks, egg whites, sugar, and chocolate or other
flavorings), usually in combination with other flavors such as chocolate or
puré ed fruit.

Basic Mousse:
Cooked meat 450gms(Chicken, fish, rabbit or vegetables)
Reduced aspic jelly 200ml
Thick bé chamel / veloute 60gms
Double cream 150ml
Salt and pepper to taste
 Dice the meat and process to a fine paste in the blender.
 Add the bé chamel / veloute, aspic and the seasoning
 Fold in the whipped cream
 Spoon in to the moulds and chill
 The moulds could be coated with aspic jelly.

Mousseline
Mousseline is made out of a combination of uncooked meat that are pureed
and bound with egg white and sometimes cream. They are set by cooking.
Normally the forcemeat for a mousseline is made out of fish. The raw fish is
 processed along with egg white to a fine paste. Seasoning and a little cream
can be incorporated towards the end of the processing. The mixture may be
flavoured with herbs like dill and parsley. It is then spooned out in moulds
like a timbale and then covered and steamed until the mixture has set.
Mousseline can be served hot or cold. Mousseline is a good way of using fish
trimmings and can be used as an accompaniment of the main course or as a
part of buffet presentation.

Mousse Mousseline
Prepared from cooked meats and Prepared from raw meats that are cooked
binding agents like bé chamel / after preparing the forcemeat bound with
veloute or aspic. egg white and cream.
Usually bigger in size and Smaller individual portion size moulds.
individual portions need to be cut
out of the mousse
Generally served chilled. Can be served hot or cold
Chicken, fish, rabbit or White fish is considered most suitable.
vegetables are generally used as
major ingredients.
They are denser and firmer in They are light because of less dense because
texture than mousselines. of incorporation of egg whites
and cream.
CHAUDFROID

Meaning of Chaudfroid: Literally means ‘hot-cold’. The name refers to the

fact that the sauce is cooked and is applied hot abut then chilled and served
cold. The high gelatin content of the sauce makes it possible to apply it to an
item while still warm and flowing. As the sauce cools, it gels and adheres to
the product.

Making of chaudfroid & Precautions:

 a. The classical method – this calls for the use of bé chamel or veloute. This
is reduced with a stock, suitable for the product that needs to be coated.
This reduction is then fortified with suitable aspic jelly and cream.
b. The contemporary method – A modern variation of the sauce is prepared
with roux.

Application of chaudfroid –
a. Items to be coated should be well chilled, else the chaudfroid will run
off before cooling.
b. The surface of the food to be coated should be smooth and trimmed of
any rough edges.
c. Surface grease must be removed before coating.
d. The item to be coated should be dabbed dry.
e. Tempering the chaudfroid – This involves bringing the temperature of
the sauce, either by heating or cooling, to a point that will allow the best
and easiest coating. Gelling takes place at around 85ºF. Normally, the
closer the temperature of sauce is maintained without it getting too
thick, the more evenly it will coat. In an ideal situation, 2 to 3 coats are
sufficient for a smooth glistening finish.
f. There are two ways to apply chaudfroid sauce. It can be either ladled
onto the product or the item to be coated can be dipped into it. The
ladling is suitable for large joints or pieces of meat. Smaller items or
uneven shaped items are more evenly coated by dipping.
g. Trimming - The item should be cut away from the pan with the help of
a palette knife dipped in hot water being run around the base of the
product.
h. The chaudfroid can be decorated tastefully with a variety of food items
such as capers, caviar, chives, olives and a single coat of well tempered
aspic jelly can protect the surface of chaudfroid from getting dull or
dry looking on the buffet.

Chaudfroid can be cooled and stored. Reheat gelled chaudfroid over a hot
water bath.
Collees – Collees are chaudfroid sauces using mayonnaise, sour cream, heavy
cream or a combination of these as their base. Collees are often used with
fish and other light items. Combine three parts of mayonnaise, sour cream or
heavy cream with one part of storng aspic jelly. Use like chaudfroid.

Types of chaudfroid: Chaudfroid can be made in a variety of colours. Only

natural ingredients must be used to obtain the colours using basic colours.
For a brown colour, replace cream with reduced jus. A green chaudfroid can
be made by using spinach puree. Red chaudfroid cam be made by using
paprika and tomato puree. Saffron, bell peppers etc can be used to obtain a
variety of colours.

Uses of chaud froid:

1. Protection of the item from the air while it sits on the buffet.
2. The sauce acts as a background or a canvas on which to decorate.
3. The chaudfroid is an adornment (decoration) itself.
4. The sauce can compliment the flavour of the coated item.

ASPIC & GELEE

A Gelee or jelly in English is a gelatinous meat or fish stock.

A gelee becomes an aspic jelly when it is clarified. The word aspic is used to
refer to a combination of old meats, fish, vegetable of eggs which are set in an
aspic jelly in a decorative mould. When thoroughly chilled, the arrangement
is de-moulded onto a service platter and perhaps surrounded with aspic jelly
croutons.

Aspic jelly must always be crystal clear and of light golden (amber) colour.
Wine can be added when the aspic jelly is still liquid. This ensures the full
aroma of flavour of wine is preserved. Wines used can be port, madeira,
sherry, marsala and crisp white wines.
Making of Aspic and Gelee
The classical method of preparing an aspic jelly is to make a stock with the
addition of more collagen rich products. In particular, these would include
pork skin, calves feet, knuckle joints and shank bones. First stock is prepared
and then it is reduced and clarified.

A quicker method is to add commercial gelatin to a ready consommé

There are commercial powders available that must be processed as per
manufacturer’s instructions. They however will not give true flavour of aspic
jelly. They are quick and easy to prepare.

Uses of Aspic and Gelee: Setting aspic with meat, vegetables etc and cut into
fancy shapes can add to the cold buffet presentation. It is also used to coat
various galantines, terrines etc to improve the appearance and to keep it
fresh for a longer period of time.

PARFAITS
This is a French term that means ‘perfect’. In culinary usage, it refers to two
distinct and different products. One is a frozen mousse like dessert served in
a tall glass. The other is a savoury terrine, which by its delicacy is almost
near to perfection. A savoury parfait makes use of vegetables, fish, shell fish
or poultry. It is distinguished by its very fine texture and is made of a puree
of the ingredients that is lightened by egg whites and cream, which is then
moulded and poached.

QUENELLS
The word quenells usually refers to ‘dumplings’. The farce may vary but a
fish pureed with light spices, herbs and seasonings bound with egg or
bé chamel is used. Tow tablespoons dipped in hot water are used to shape
the quenells. They are then poached in fish stock for few minutes to cook.
The stock is then used to prepare sauce like fish veloute to accompany
quenells. They can be
served as fish course on the menu. They are also used as garnish e.g. in
‘veloute dame blanche soup’.

Recipe: Sole / cod quennels

Minced shallots 30 gms
Cod / Sole 450 gms
Unsalted butter 100 gms
Egg whites 4 nos
Cream 200ml
Thick bé chamel 100 gms
Salt and pepper to taste
Fish stock 400 ml
White wine a dash

 Place the fish and the shallots in a food processor. Puree roughly.
 Add the bé chamel and cream, along with eggs and process until the
mixture is smooth.
 Add seasoning and butter.
 Dip two spoons in hot water and then shape the quennels.
 Poach in fish stock flavoured with wine.
 When cooked, drain on absorbent paper and serve with an appropriate
sauce.

Although food holds the spotlight in all buffet presentations and the
objective of buffet planning must be to achieve visual beauty both in the
artistic presentation of each item of edible food and in the arrangement of the
many dishes on the buffet table. Nothing heightens the beauty of the buffet
more than an outstanding center piece (piece monte) made of ice, tallow or
other such materials. The term non-edible is used to indicate that the center
piece is not meant for consumption along with the rest of the food on the
buffet.
The guest should be able to identify the theme of the buffet at a glance
by observing the non-edible decorations. They are divided into:
 Non-Edible Displays

Artistic displays Food

displays

 Ice carvings Bread displays

 Tallow displays Cheese & wine
display
 Butter / margarine sculptures Pasta display

 Salt carvings or saltillage Spice display

 Sugar craft or pastillage Aspic cut outs
 Chocolate mouldings Suckling pig,
roast turkeyetc
 Fruit and vegetable carving
1. Ice carvings
The ice sculpture is the focal point of any buffet. Ice can be carved in any
shape, size or figure that fits the theme or occasion. The essentials for ice
carving are:
 A block of ice on which carving is to be done –
May be clear or opaque ice – (it is the purity of water and
also the method of making ice, which usually entraps air
molecules and turns the ice opaque) or even coloured ice if
required.
 A graph template – A clear drawing that indicates the
sculpting outline and texture. One can draw equidistant
blocks on it as in a graph to simplify the task.
 A pair of ice tongs for handling moving ends of the ice.
 An ice shaver with three to six prongs used to curve out
the details and do the small cutting on the ice.
 An ice pick, used to split the block into smaller pieces.
 A hand saw, used to remove large cuts of ice or to make rough outlines.

 Chisels ranging in size from ½ to 2 inches.

 An electric chain saw, when working with this type of saw it is important
to have the saw grounded to prevent accidents.
 A good pair of gloves which have metal finger tips to prevent accidents.
 Salt
The best temperature for ice carving is 28ºF or less. An ice block will melt
at the rate of ½ inch to 1 inch per hour at room temperature. Protective
clothing and gloves are must for ice carving. The chef must take regular
breaks during work. Mark the ice to scale with the template using threads or
coloured ice markers. Then following the template step wise to create the
sculpture. Nowadays, 3D models can be used as template to get better overall
effect. One should be very careful while working with ice. Once broken it is
difficult to join. If a small piece of ice breaks off, dip each broken edge into
salt and press pieces back together for a few minutes(the length of time will
depend on the size and weight of the broken piece).

Display of ice carving on the buffet:

 The carved ice block should be placed in a specially constructed metal
pan, then wooden blocks wider than the base should be placed and then
the carving and it should rest securely on top of the block.
 Colored lights and specially designed display units provide a dramatic
effect.
 Coloured ice or a combination of clear and opaque ice can be used.
 In an equatorial or temperate climate like ours, a special refrigerated wall
cabinet is required for display.

2. Tallow work: To prepare tallow displays, following ratios can be

used:
1/3 beeswax
1/3 paraffin
 1/3 beef fat
Render beef (lamb or pork) fat and strain through multiple layers of
cheese cloth. Set aside. Melt beeswax and paraffin over medium heat.
Combine all the ingredients and stir well. Allow to cool to room temperature.
The quantity of fat can be increased if a more pliable and workable mixture
is needed especially if the working area is cool i.e. below 65ºF. This is then
used to make a display as desired. This can be manipulated in various
shapes like clay.
The person making the tallow display should have a photograph or
model of the piece to be made that should correspond to the theme of the
buffet. A wooden base is used. Then a rough structure is made out of metal,
aluminium foil or styrofoam. It is then covered with tallow and given final
shape. The display prepared should be covered in transparent wrap when
not in use as it accumulates the dust.

3. Butter and Margarine Carvings:

Many a times margarine is used
instead of butter because of higher
melting point and being easy to
handle than butter. Similar to
tallow, an outline is made out of stiff
material such as a wire piece,
aluminium foil, strips of wood etc. This armature is then covered
with butter / margarine and given final shape. Ideally the work
should be carried out in cool environment. These sculptures have
the advantage over ice carving as they can be reused. However they
should be protected from dirt.

4. Saltillage–To create sculptures first a good solid metal armature is

needed to support the weight of the sculpture. Cover the armature
with aluminium foil to create desired shape. Cover the base so
formed with a thin layer of salt dough. Dry. Repeat and dry again.
 Finish details on the third layer of the dough. Dry and paint with
brown cornstarch or dust with herbs and spices.

Basic salt dough for sculptures can be prepared as following:

3/4 cup cold water
2 cup flour
1 cups salt
This can be kneaded to make a soft pliable dough. Use colours if required
and mould. This may be air dried or even dried in a warm oven.

5. Sugar craft or Pastillage

Sugar sculpture is the art of producing artistic centerpieces entirely composed

of sugar and sugar derivatives. Sugar showpieces can be composed of
several different types of sugar elements. All begin with cooking sugar, and
possibly an acidic agent and/or non-sucrose sugar product to avoid
unwanted crystallization, to the hard crack stage, around 300 °F (149 °C).
When all components are completed, they are welded together using a gas
torch. The sugar is melted, and then joined together.

Isomalt is widely used for the production of sugar-free candy, especially

hard- boiled candy, because it resists crystallisation much better than the
standard combinations of sucrose and corn syrup. It is used in sugar
sculpture for the same reason.

Elements of sugar craft -

a) Pulled sugar: The sugar has been cooked, the now-liquid sugar is
poured onto a silicone rubber mat (e.g., Silpat). Any coloring is now
added. The sugar is then folded repeatedly into itself, until the sugar is,
while still flexible, cool enough to handle. The sugar is then stretched
out and then folded on itself repeatedly. This process incorporates air
into the sugar, and gives it a bright lustery sheen. The sugar can then
be sculpted by hand into various shapes, made into ribbons, or blown.
b) Blown sugar: In blown sugar, a portion of pulled sugar is placed on a
rubber pump which is tipped with either wood or metal. Pumps are
most commonly hand pumps. While being blown, the sugar can be
shaped, often into animals or flowers. Blown sugar cannot be quickly
cooled by dipping it in water, so chefs must use fans to cool the sugar,
all the while rotating it, so that it does not come out of shape. This
technique is very useful in making balloons for wedding cakes.
c) Cast sugar: In this technique, sugar is poured into molds. This
technique produces more sturdy pieces than pulled and blown sugar,
and is almost always used for the base and structural elements of
showpieces.

d) Pastillage - Pastillage is a strengthened paste which is recommended

for creating structures such as buildings, models, ornaments, boxes
and cards etc. as it is very strong and hard when dry.
Pastillage is a packaged sugar compound similar to gum paste.
However, pastillage can be created using confectioner's sugar, water
and gelatin. This compound dries out quickly, so sugar artists must
move fast when sculpting with pastillage. When the pastillage has dried,

it becomes brittle, however, if further sculpting needs to be done with

this compound, sugar artists can use sanders and grinders to shape it.

6. Chocolate mouldings
 Tempering: A chocolatier must know how to temper chocolate properly
for different applications or temper for chocolate for desired
characteristics. Chocolate contains cocoa butter which crystallizes
during the heat treatment of melting and tempering chocolate. The
crystal formation in chocolate can affect many different attributes to the
chocolate - mouthfeel, snap of the chocolate, the color, dull or shiny.
 Molding: Molding is a design technique used in making chocolate
pieces that are of a certain shape by taking liquid chocolate and
pouring it into
 a mold and letting it harden. One can even use a simple straw as a
mould to prepare a chocolate straw.
 Sculpting: Sculpting is a type of three-dimensional artwork, and in the
case of a chocolatier, involves using only chocolate to create the piece
of artwork. Sculpting may involve using molds and pieces of chocolate,
and decorating the piece with designs in chocolate. Modeling
chocolate is a chocolate paste made by melting chocolate and
combining it with corn syrup and/or a simple syrup. This also involves
techniques like colouring the chocolate using spray gun and edible
colours. Decorate the sculpture with chocolate shavings, chocolate
curls and using pattern transfer sheets on chocolates.

7. Fruit and Vegetable carving –

The origin of this art is believed to be in oriental belt. Vegetable carving is the
art of carving vegetables to form beautiful objects, such as flowers or birds.
This involves a practiced hand and a set of sharp carving tools – knives and
cutters to prepare shapes.

The natural composition of fruit or vegetable may be used to its best to give
colour and texture to the carving. E.g. A melon has a dark green skin, then a
lighter coloured thick skin below it and then the red pulp. The three natural
layers of fruit may be used to add texture and colour to the carving.
Alternately, a lot of small flowers made up of onions, leeks, carrots,
cucumbers etc may be made, inserted in a satay stick and put in a flower vase
made of carrot or radish. The possibilities are endless.