AUGUST 2023

ISSUE #10

MARCOS SALAZAR, REBECCA HOPKINS, STEVE PINEAU,

NADIA FRITTELLA MASON NG
A Balanced Glass: Life in Moderation Grapes and Grains
 AMERICAS
ECUADOR 2023

OCT 29 - NOV 1
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

CONTENTS

click on an article for fast navigation>

Published by: Association de la Sommellerie Internationale ASI Executive Board

Editor, Content Manager: Mark DeWolf President: William Wouters
Partnership Management: Ana Sofia Oliveira Secretary General: Beáta Vlnková
Marketing & Communication: Xeniya Volosnikova Assistant Secretary General: Ivo Dvorak
Administrative Assistant: Claire Monier Treasurer: Philippe Faure-Brac
Translation: Michèle Aström Chantôme, Manuel Negrete Deputy Treasurer: Samuil Angelov
Design / Layout: Carissa Botha Vice-president for Asia & Pacific: Saiko Tamura-Soga
Photography: iStock, Unsplash, Marcos Bacon Vice-president for Africa & Middle East:
Cover Photo: iStock Michèle Aström Chantôme
Vice-president for Europe: Piotr Kamecki
Contributors: Vice-president for the Americas: Matias Prezioso
Mark DeWolf, Paulo Grifo, Nadia Frittella, Jeff Ho, Rebecca Hopkins, Atsuhide Hoshiyama,
Alba Hough, Nick Lander, Mason Ng, Tom Nichol, Néli Pereira, Steve Pineau, Magazine inquiries:
Marcos Salazar, Hitoshi Utsunomiya, Jesse Vallins, Xeniya Volosnikova, William Wouters Mark DeWolf, ASI Content Manager
markdewolf@asi.info
General Inquiries: www.asi.info | info@asi.info

© Association de la Sommellerie Internationale. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced, stored in retrieval systems,
or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written permission from the publisher. 3
 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

Welcome!
William Wouters,
President ASI

Beyond Wine

I recall my own early days as a

sommelier. At the time, the role
of most sommeliers equated to the
India Pale Ale, Imperial India Pale
Ale, Hazy India Pale Ale, as a just a
few of its sub-classifications.
With an ever more competitive
restaurant landscape, the demands
of the sommelier have never been
service of wine, most often from greater and with it the pressure
classic French and Italian regions, Add to this the continually more to perform often under stress.
and offering guests a glass of Port, global nature of our industry. With In this issue we explore ways for
Cognac, or an Eau de Vie served it, other fermented beverages are sommeliers to maintain balance
in double ice bowl glass after expanding beyond their traditional in their life with Rebecca Hopkins
dinner. In the past few decades boundaries. Take the globalisation (A Balanced Glass) and Nadia
expectations of sommeliers has of sake as a good example. In this Fritella (Secretary General, Wine
transcended the classic wine issue we explore sake’s place on in Moderation). We also do a deep
PRESIDENT’S WELCOME

regions and grape-based spirits the drinks list and how sommeliers dive into the world of adult non-
of the world. In terms of wines, can use it to enhance their guests’ alcoholic beverages with our Guest
a sommelier must now know, dining experiences. Editor Marcos Salazar, CEO of the
be able to explain, and identify Adult Non-Alcoholic Beverage
a dizzying array of wine regions, We also talk about cocktails and Association.
and a dictionary of varietals, many beers’ place in the fine dining
of which veer to the obscure and world, including an exploration of What better way to finish off a
very rare and can be specific to a the foraged cocktail movement in discussion than with some coffee
singular, often very small place. Brazil with a rockstar of the South and tea? In this issue we explore the
American cocktail world, Néli rise of fine coffee and tea service.
A sommelier must also be incredibly Pereira. Finally, we chat gin with ASI Singapore based mixologist and tea
well-versed in other beverages. Diversity Committee member Alba expert Jeff Ho shares his knowledge
A whisky is not simply a whisky. Hough, who recently launched her of tea, including the rise of single
A beer not just simply beer. Even own brand of gin, and legendary source tea and its role in the
classic broad definitions of whisky distiller Tom Nichol. Nichol is the restaurant world.
and beer styles are no longer master distiller behind Tanqueray
sufficient bases of knowledge. Take No. 10. He has recently come out of Enjoy this issue of ASI Magazine
India Pale Ale for example, itself a retirement to make The Gardener dedicated to everything but wine
sub-style of Pale Ale, which counts Gin for the partnership between and remember to share it with
British India Pale Ale, West Coast Brad Pitt and the Perrin family. your colleagues.
William Wouters, President ASI

ASI General Assembly, Helsinki, Finland

4
 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

Guest
Editors
MARCOS SALAZAR, NICK LANDER

The Economics
of No Alcohol:
an interview with
Adult Non-Alcoholic
Beverage Association
CEO Marcos Salazar
A DISCUSSION WITH...

Marcos Salazar is an entrepreneur, speaker, and

business coach. He's the founder of Be Social Change,
which is a community of like-minded members from
a variety of business sectors who seek purpose in
their lives by creating positive social impact in what
they do. He also has his own podcast, For all Drinks,
which encourages listeners to drink different, explore
the increasingly diverse and interesting world of
adult non-alcoholic beverages. Finally, he's also
Marcos Salazar
currently the CEO of the adult non alcoholic beverage
association.

Marcos’ journey into the world of social enterprise

“I have been an began around 2010, when he was working for Girl
entrepreneur all my life, Scouts of the USA, a large US-based non-profit. At the
time Salazar was a researcher and a tech strategist.
even as a little kid. He says “I loved the organisation and people that
I was working with, but felt like I could be doing
I believe ‘if you don’t find more, and that I was meant for more. I wasn't really
what you’re looking for, tapping into all my talents and abilities. And this was
Marcos Salazar and Nick Lander

around the same time when you started hearing

that’s an opportunity about social impact and social entrepreneurship.”
At the time Salazar was living in New York. As he
to create it.’” went out to see what was available for events and
classes or community around this concept of social
entrepreneurship, and it just didn't really exist.

6
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

“I have been an entrepreneur all my

life, even as a little kid. I believe ‘if
you don't find what you're looking
for, that's an opportunity to create
it.’ I ended up launching a meetup
group called “Be social change”,
which brought together diverse
groups of people that wanted to
create more meaning or purpose
in their work. In our first meetup
we had about 150 people join us
just for happy hour, and I knew
that I tapped into something.” Over
the next decade, Salazar ended up
going from meeting up to non-profit
and eventually transitioned it to a
for profit company.” The company
would end up hosting three to five
events, and up to ten professional
development workshops, a month.

A DISCUSSION WITH...
It was this frequency that according
to Salazar led to his exploration of
non-alcoholic beverages, at a time
when that industry was undergoing All the Bitter is a brand of non-alcoholic bitters crafted in the United States
its own metamorphosis. Salazar
decided to launch a company
that hosted non-alcoholic popup
speakeasies, dance parties, and
karaoke. The pandemic forced
“I could work The journey to creating an adult
non-alcoholic beverage association
Salazar to transfer to virtual events, 16 hours a day was a personal journey for Salazar
which led to the For all Drinks who says “as an entrepreneur, I
podcast and a number of other non-stop and could work 16 hours a day non-stop
pieces of content. “That's really
where the association (Adult Non-
absolutely love and absolutely love every minute of
it, but over time I recognised that
Alcoholic Beverage Association) idea every minute of it wasn’t healthy for me. I needed
really emerged from, as I started to find balance. (At the time) I was
to get to know the founders and it, but over time just going out to drinks in New York
the innovators and entrepreneurs
who are creating these adult non-
I recognised that City with friends or partying on the
weekends, and began recognising
alcoholic beverages.” Salazar began it wasn’t healthy that alcohol not only for me
to see the business and regulatory personally, but an overwhelming
challenges they were facing and for me. I needed amount of scientific evidence to
recognise there was an opportunity
and a need to create an association
to find balance.” support this, doesn't have a positive
impact on your health. As of 2019 I
Marcos Salazar and Nick Lander

to really build out infrastructure, began re-evaluating my relationship

promote and protect the category with alcohol. The challenge was I'm
as well as come together in a also the type of person that loves
unified voice and community to hosting. I'm a community builder
grow this industry. and connector.”

7
 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

“It’s vital for

the growth of
the hospitality
industry to
While Salazar rarely drinks alcohol
now, he says “there are occasions
be able to
or situations that emerge that I integrate those,
may want to partake in drinking an
alcoholic beverage. Over 80 per cent not only from
of people who purchase adult non-
alcoholic products are moderators
an economic
(drink both non-alcoholic and perspective
alcoholic beverages). They may not
want to drink during the week, or but also
they may want to go to a restaurant
or bar and have a meeting the next
from a social
day and don't want to feel bad responsibility
or hungover or kind of groggy.”
One such situation for Salazar standpoint.”
was a recent visit to a steakhouse,
A DISCUSSION WITH...

where he might opt for a glass of

‘Cabernet.’ On this occasion “I didn't thinking about drinking an alcoholic category had been growing 15 to 20
want to drink because I had some beverage, but they still may want per cent per annum, but according
meetings the next day. There were something sophisticated. Do you to Salazar, during the pandemic “we
literally no (non-alcoholic) options want to serve a water or soda saw 60, 70 even 80 per cent growth
that would complement the steak. for three dollars or an adult non- and some brands even growing 100
So now part of the purpose of the alcoholic beverage for ten or even per cent or more.” The Adult Non-
association is really to ensure that fifteen dollars. It’s vital for the Alcoholic Beverage Association has
there's sophisticated adult non growth of the hospitality industry been working with data companies,
alcoholic beverages in every type to be able to integrate those, not as well as we're going to start doing
of social situation, so people only from an economic perspective our own internal research to start
always feel included, and always but also from a social responsibility helping to get clarity on that growth
can be part of the experience.” standpoint.” Anecdotally Salazar trajectory. According to Salazar,
Not having a suitable non-alcoholic also says, “I’ll be honest, I know based on research gained from
option is a lost opportunity that people are seeking out these Drizly, while “beer historically has
according to Salazar. “All they beverages, when they find a been the main category of adult
had was soda water and Diet Coke restaurant or bar that does serve non-alcoholic beverages, non-
and a few other high sugar drinks. them, they will go to that restaurant alcoholic wine grew 76 per cent
It was a missed opportunity for repeatedly, because they know that over the last year, and spirits have
that restaurant to be able to serve there's always going to be an option grown 155 per cent since January
me something better and earn that's available to them.” 2022.” With the speed of growth
more money.” post-pandemic stabilising, it has led
The growth of the category is to some brands seeking to increase
Salazar stresses the economic undeniable. The rise of non- on-premises sales.
Marcos Salazar and Nick Lander

benefits of incorporating non- alcoholic was buoyed by Covid,

alcoholic in to drinks programmes along with e-commerce and the Supporting the transition to on-
as those that don’t are according ease of shipping non-alcoholic premise has not only been the rising
to Salazar, “are missing out on a beverages compared to the more number of non-alcoholic brands, but
large amount of money. Half to regulated alcohol industry factoring also the quality of adult non-alcoholic
two-thirds of people going into into an increased awareness of options, with technology playing a
a restaurant typically are not craft non-alcoholic. Pre-covid the key role in the industry’s ability to

8
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

While the adoption of craft adult

non-alcoholic drinks into beverage
menus is still in its infancy, Salazar
and the NABA is working to ensure
its members are producing high
quality products. The association
holds members to codes of ethics,
and they must abide to industry
standards along with state and
federal laws. Additionally, according
to Salazar, the next stage for the
association will be “providing all the
educational resources they need
for food and safety production
standards and making sure that
they're creating shelf stable, high
quality products. And then the
next phase going into next year
will probably be some kind of
verification system, both in terms
of those, those kinds of checks and
balances from food and safety,
but also from a regular testing of

A DISCUSSION WITH...
the products as well; we want to
produce continually more complex As far as who is drinking adult progressively build that out.”
options. Producing high-quality non-alcoholic Salazar says “it is
non-alcoholic products isn’t easy, as literally across the board, but for While non-alcoholic beverages do
retention of complex aromatics and different reasons. You have some not need to be the focal point of a
filling the textural void left by the boomers and older people, with beverage list, from our discussion
removal of alcohol is challenging. the disposable income to it, who with Marcos Salazar, we have
Technology advancements and had been accustomed to adult become convinced that to not have
the ingenuity of craft non-alcoholic non-alcoholic beverages being not a non-alcoholic strategy will leave
beverage producers has been key. so great beer, and very sweet wine money on the table and could
In the case of wine Salazar says, trying it again. You're also seeing a alienate an ever-growing population
“the dealcoholisation process that younger generation of Gen Z and of sober-conscious consumers.
would typically strip complexity and Millennials that are also driving
body and, complexity of the flavour this as well. Partially because more
is getting better and better. And and more are drinking less and
you're also starting to see other less. According to a statistic by
beverage brands that are not tying Nielsen, over 40 per cent of Gen
themselves to alcohol, or a previous Z, that are of legal drinking age (in
alcohol production process, who the US) between the ages of 21 to
are coming out with their own about 25, have never consumed
methods and processes. A lot of this an alcoholic beverage. They have
is within the wine proxy category, literally never tasted an alcoholic
where instead of tying production beverage, but they still want to be
to the typical winemaking process, drinking something sophisticated
Marcos Salazar and Nick Lander

and then dealcoholising it, they're and delicious in social situations,

creating something based on other so they're opting for adult non
ingredients, whether it's vinegar, or alcoholic beverages instead.”
other types of products to kind of
create the same complexity and body
of the of wine without it being wine.”

9
 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

Upping the
Beverage Game
from Start to Finish
With Nick Lander,
restaurant critic
Nick Lander, often referred to as “he who must
be obeyed,” is a prominent figure in gastronomy.
His expertise spans across various roles, including
being the esteemed restaurant critic for both
and the Financial Times.
Moreover, he is recognised as a chef and a food
service consultant, lending his invaluable insights
Nick Lander
to an array of arts organisations and development
A DISCUSSION WITH...

projects.

“I was always told that In 2012, Lander's book, titled "The Art of the
Restaurateur", received widespread acclaim. The
‘last impressions are book delves into the intricate craftsmanship and
unparalleled dedication required to excel in the
the most important’. realm of restaurateurs. Lander takes readers on a

The tea, coffee offering captivating journey behind the scenes, shedding
light on the challenges and triumphs that
has to be as interesting restaurateurs face in their quest to create
extraordinary dining experiences.
as the menu and the
wine list.” Building on the success of his first book, Lander
went on to publish "On the Menu" in 2016. This work
focuses on the often overlooked, yet vital aspect
of restaurant menus. With meticulous attention to
detail, Lander delves into the thought processes and
creative decisions that shape a menu's composition.
Through his insightful analysis, he unveils the hidden
psychology behind menu design and its impact
on diners.
Marcos Salazar and Nick Lander

With this in mind, we asked Lander about the

evolution of drinks programmes as a reaction to
changes in consumption patterns, which is seeing
marked interest in beverages beyond wine, even
amongst fine dining consumers. According to
Lander, the evolution is occurring amongst a variety
of beverages including spirits, cocktails, beer, and
non-alcoholic beverages and the demand for the

10
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

broadening of drinks programmes, is now garnering attention for its

is a “process started in the US and complexity, diversity, and ability
the rest of the world is playing to enhance the dining experience.
catch-up.” Tea is also experiencing a rise in
consumption thanks to consumers
With changing drinking preferences, seeking healthier alternatives.
particularly amongst the Millennial
and Gen Z generations, it begs As will explore later in this issue,
the question if sommeliers, and another contributing factor is
beverage managers, we’ll need to the rise of specialty teas and the
adapt and become more versed increasing demand for artisanal,
in all beverages to prosper in the single-origin, and rare tea varieties.
next generation of fine dining Just as with wine, customers
restaurants. Asked if he thinks are becoming more discerning
classic fine dining restaurants, even and curious about the origins,
the most exalted Michelin 2-star processing methods, and flavour
and 3-star, need to ‘up’ their cocktail profiles of teas. While traditional
game, Lander retorts “I think that afternoon tea service as performed
most restaurants, whatever their by the likes of London’s Ritz Carlton,
rating, are trying extremely hard. No Hong Kong’s The Peninsula, New
press release comes today without York’s St. Regis Hotel, and the
the name of the mixologist.” Mandarin Oriental Bangkok are
showcases of the traditional, other
It’s not just consumer demand top restaurants such as La Maison

A DISCUSSION WITH...
for cocktails, spirits and beer Pic are also responding to this
that are leading to change at demand by curating extensive
the world’s best restaurants. An tea menus, featuring teas from
ever growing sober-conscious different regions, and showcasing
population, because of shifts the expertise of their sommeliers.
amongst preferences amongst Tea, and coffee, are two items
age groups and an increasingly Lander suggests should not be an
cultural diversity amongst high-end afterthought. He concludes “I was
diners is asking sommeliers and always told that 'last impressions
beverage managers to consider are the most important'. The
the role of non-alcoholic in their tea, coffee offering has to be
drinks programme. Restaurants as interesting as the menu and
such as Copenhagen’s Geranium, the wine list. But it must not be
New York’s Eleven Madison Park, pretentious.”
and Chicago’s Alinea, the latter
even producing a cookbook titled
‘Zero’ featuring exclusively non-
alcoholic drinks, have jumped
fully into the non-alcoholic pool.
Lander agrees with their decisions.
As he says, “I think non-alcoholic
drinks are extremely important and
particularly profitable. Anybody who
ignores them does so at their peril.”
Marcos Salazar and Nick Lander

In recent years, there has also been

a notable rise in the prominence
of tea service in fine dining
restaurants, marking a shift in the
way beverages are perceived and
appreciated in the culinary world.
Traditionally overshadowed by wine
and other alcoholic beverages, tea

11
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

Moderation
and Living a
Balanced Life

FEATURE ARTICLE
With Nadia Frittella and Rebecca Hopkins

T able ten needs a bottle decanted, table seven needs another

bottle of Champagne, you hear the faint sounds of an angry
chef waiting to serve first course of the tasting menu, but you aren’t
even close to pouring the table’s first wine selection. Then in walks
a regular who you know will want to talk with you about wine for
half an hour……Finally, the shift is over. You survived, but your
nerves are frayed. Everyone is going for a drink, again….do you go?
The life of a sommelier can be a struggle for balance. ASI invited
two industry professionals committed to finding, and promoting
balanced, healthy lifestyles for their thoughts.

Nadia Fritella is a communications professional based in Bruxelles

and the Secretary General at Wine in Moderation.

Rebecca Hopkins is an experienced wine communication

strategist, speaker, moderator, host, and writer, with nearly three
Moderation and Living a Balanced Life

decades of professional experience in the wine business. Rebecca

founded and launched A Balanced Glass in March 2018, with a
mission to provide educational resources to industry colleagues to
help maintain health and wellbeing while working in the beverage
alcohol industry.

13
 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

early 90s. At the time, moderation

wasn't really something we talked
about. I came to the US in 2007, and
I'm still here in San Francisco. When
I arrived, I came into a big corporate
wine role that had a lot of travel,
pressure, and a lot of people to
manage. I wasn't really coping well.
So, I was finding ways to deal with
it myself.

Eventually I was looking for ways to

find balance. I took up meditation
and practicing yoga, and finding
other ways to navigate this kind
of crazy life I was living. In 2017, I
went to an industry conference.
And no one was talking about
alcohol. There's a lot of discussion
around career development and
opportunities and early, nascent
discussions about diversity and
Nadia Fritella
equity but not about alcohol. I
thought to myself ‘this is a problem,
because this is at the very core of
what we do.’ In 2018, I decided to
FEATURE ARTICLE

ASI: Why and when was Wine in

Moderation created?
“I can already launch it (A Balanced Glass), mostly
out of just frustration. I teamed
Nadia Fritella (NF): Wine in tell you up with Kathy Huyghe, who was
Moderation was launched in
2008 when the European wine that wine a friend and a meditation, yoga
teacher. We started to write about it
sector united under one common
commitment for the first time.
professionals are and try to offer up some resources
we knew about. It blossomed from
Since then, it has evolved from one of our main there. Now there are about 2000
a European commitment to
an internationally recognised target groups people in the community.

programme.
when it comes ASI: Do you believe people working
in the hospitality, beverage alcohol
Wine in Moderation works to inspire to the message industry are subject to greater risk
a sustainable culture of wine. Our
mission, as the social responsibility of moderation of alcoholism and maintaining a
balanced lifestyle?
programme of the wine sector
is two-fold: providing wine
and responsible NF: Today we know that the vast
majority of consumers enjoy wine
professionals with the information drinking.” in moderation, unfortunately there
and tools to responsibly present
– Nadia Fritella remains a minority that misuse
wine, and inspiring consumers to
alcoholic beverages in ways that
fully enjoy wine and its culture in a
Moderation and Living a Balanced Life

can be damaging to themselves and

healthy, balanced, and convivial way.
that can harm others around them.
I suppose we can imagine that
ASI: Why did you launch A
some wine professionals would also
Balanced Glass? Was it your own
find themselves in this situation.
personal experience? Or did you
However, we do not have access to
have observations going on in the
official numbers or research. As a
industry that kind of led you to want
matter of fact, I am not even sure
to do this?
such numbers exist.
Rebecca Hopkins (RH): I grew up
in Australia, and have been in the
wine business in Australia, since the

14
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

Rebecca Hopkins

FEATURE ARTICLE
Notwithstanding, I can already between what is seen and what
tell you that wine professionals it is in reality. It’s an industry with
are one of our main target groups long hours, and generally low pay.
when it comes to the message It's physically demanding, and it
of moderation and responsible can be a stressful, high-pressure
drinking. Not only because they environment. As a result, it can
are often first in line when speaking become an environment where
with consumers and people look for ways to cope. Part

“It’s an industry should therefore have

all the knowledge
of that way to cope obviously has
to be in a company with other
with long hours, and on the topic, but also alcohol professionals which can put
for their own interest. us in some unsafe environments.
generally low pay. It’s Another point is alcohol being used
physically demanding, RH: It's a difficult
question to answer,
as a currency. In our industry, it's
either, for example, free beer at the
and it can be a but I think the easy brewery or it's after shift drinks,
answer is yes. I think free wine samples etcetera. I think
stressful, high-pressure what really sets it's the combination of those factors
environment…” industry professionals
aside from consumers
that really does leave us a lot more
vulnerable.
Moderation and Living a Balanced Life

– Rebecca Hopkins is the access to

alcohol. It's part of ASI: Are there warning signs? What
what we do in our everyday life. are some of those resources out
In this industry you are never far there that you think that those
away from access to wine, spirits, that are looking for more balanced
or beer. While our industry looks lifestyle?
glamorous from the outside to NF: Moderation, as with everything
someone who's not worked in in life, is key. It is therefore
a restaurant, a winery, a tasting important to always keep an eye
room, or for an agent or distributor, on warning signs and redirect
I think there's a big disconnect the person in question to the

15
 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

appropriate organisation or medical whole conversation, about how we wealth and privilege, ceremony,
entity. At Wine in Moderation, talk about the people that matter. and luxury. I would also say that
we are currently working on Of course, there are also more wine has had this benefit of being
a responsible service training traditional support groups such as part of the service ritual. If we think
targeting wine professionals Alcoholics Anonymous and various about being in restaurants, there's
around the world. Our goal is to government funded organisations, a familiarity with how you will be
give professionals all the tools which provide therapy and served your wine. There are special
they need to offer their customers counseling. The most important glasses that we use and there's a
FEATURE ARTICLE

a responsible wine experience, thing, if you're thinking about what special wine implement you need
and we are thrilled to say that the your relationship is with alcohol, to use to open your bottle. With
training was also very well received and the hardest step, is to sit down this service ritual comes this
by important people within the and be honest with yourself. association with it (wine) being
sector such as former WSET CEO something special.
Ian Harris. You need to ask yourself why do
you want to make this change? On top of that, the Wine Market
RH: In terms of tools, I think we How much are you really drinking? Council did some research in 2021.
have now more than ever, and How do you feel? What are the The results found consumers
thank goodness for the devices relationships you're having? From perceive wine to be the most
that we have in our hands. We there, it’s important to connect into natural of alcoholic beverages. 62
have 24/7 access to stuff, but I a trusted community and start to per cent of consumers said wine is
think the challenge again, for us have those conversations. more natural than beer, and more
as an industry, is credible industry natural than spirits.
resources that really understand ASI: Do you think wine media,
the reality of what we work with. and the wine industry in general, ASI: Do you think the consumers
There’s The Drinks Trust out of the haven’t done a good job in terms will learn some lessons once more
UK (United Kingdom) which have a of identifying wine as a drug with stringent labeling are in place?
phenomenal range of both industry addictive qualities? Do you think What about government warning
access tools and communities there's like a socio-economic bias labels and stringent standard drinks
Moderation and Living a Balanced Life

that you can join and be part of that perpetuates wine o'clock definitions? Do they help or hurt?
that. There's Healthy Pour, which culture as acceptable and makes NF: No universal drinking guidelines
is based out of Chicago, that have overconsumption of wine, in exist, and a wide range of drinking
a lot of resources on hospitality some ways, perhaps more guidelines are published by
wellbeing, including everything socially accepted? authorities around the world.
from how to manage drinking to RH: Let's be clear, any form of any It is recommended to follow a
managing workplace relationships, alcohol is dangerous. It's a drug. moderate and responsible drinking
etcetera, that are specifically I think wine has benefited from pattern: enjoy wine with the meals,
designed for the hospitality the kind of socio-economic bias alternate with water, and always
industry. And then there's Lauren you describe. Throughout history, avoid binge drinking. Moreover,
Taylor and she's really leading this wine has been associated with when drinking a glass of wine,

16
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

the amount you drink is not the yourself. UK-based Professor David
only important factor, how it is Nutt wrote a book called Drink: The
consumed will also matter: this is New Science of Alcohol and Health. I
known as the “drinking pattern”. Of think that that is the most unbiased
course, there are situations in which factual resource that I've found
drinking alcoholic beverages should around what is an acceptable
be avoided, for example when amount of alcohol as I do think that
pregnant or breastfeeding, when these (government) mandates do
driving, or if underage. cause responses of, you know, one
extreme or the other. At the end of
RH: Standard the day, the middle way is the best

“No universal drinks were

created when
way, in my opinion.

drinking alcohol was lower, ASI: Has media played a role in

and glasses were making over consumption of wine
guidelines smaller. I think more socially acceptable?

exist, and a as we look at the

concentration of
RH: Absolutely! I think the
perception of wine for many
wide range alcohol in drinks consumers has been, healthy.
it is something The wine industry has played into
of drinking that is open to that, and then we have situations,

guidelines are interpretation.

I also think
references like ‘rosé’ all day’ or wine
being referred to as ‘mommy juice’,
published by government which just starts to tap into that
mandates on glamorous, kind of aspect of wine.
authorities temperance, or

FEATURE ARTICLE
around the abstinence, which
is certainly what
ASI: Do you think as a society, we
are becoming more sober curious?
world.” we've seen a NF: Cultural and social norms
lot in the US, is evolve continuously. What we
– Nadia Fritella
dangerous. It's have noticed in recent years is
not a bad thing, that society is changing and that
because I think at any level, it needs people value health, environmental
a measurement. Some people need sustainability and community.
this in order to manage their health. Furthermore, wine consumers are
But it's not a one size fits all. That's increasingly interested in having
where the grey area really comes in. an experience with wine, that
The best thing to do is to educate goes along with their values and

Moderation and Living a Balanced Life

17
 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

their lifestyle. Wine businesses ASI: Should non-alcoholic wine be RH: Balance is a fleeting concept.
must evolve together with their made via dealcoholisation? The biggest thing I say is, there's no
consumers and society and RH: I have to say, I don't think I such thing. It doesn't exist. I think
show that they care about their do. I've just tasted about 50 non- we are humans. We are in motion.
customers. Social sustainability alcoholic wines kind of as part We are changing all the time. That's
in the form of moderate and of my research. I'm a nerd. I like just life. How do I live? I'm very
responsible consumption can go a to taste things. I'm not sure that conscious about what I drink, and
long way in showing that and this is the consumer cares as much when I drink, and why I'm drinking.
why Wine in Moderation is always about dealcoholisation as the I won't drink at least a day a week,
gaining more supporters around industry wants them to. There if not two….and I don't drink alone,
the world. are traditional producers such as which is hard because I live alone. I
Leitz, out of Germany, who are really try to be in situations where
RH: We are still curious. In reality, having tremendous success. Their we can discuss wine as part of a
when you look at the numbers, it is non-alcoholic Riesling is on wine community. Sometimes, you fall off,
still a very, very small nascent space lists by the glass and appreciated but then you just get back on again,
but we need to see the conversation by sommeliers. Giesen from and reset and move forward.
start before the sales start to really Marlborough (New Zealand) is
deliver. I think it's a great discussion another one. Speaking with some I also have a very outdoor lifestyle.
to have, and I think it's a healthy, from the company recently, their Exercise, and meditation is
pardon the pun, discussion for non-alcoholic range is now neck and important for me. I can take them
people to have with themselves neck with their traditional alcohol on the road with me if I'm traveling,
and with their loved ones, as there range. I think there are some which helps me stay focused and
isn't any doubt that alcohol has an consumers who are traditional, but perform at my best, and helps me
impact on society. I'm all for proxies. I'm all for things be in a world as someone who's
that give me flavor mouthfeel and hopefully living by example.
ASI: In our interview with our excitement. You know, they're never
FEATURE ARTICLE

guest editor, Marcos Salazar of going to replace a great glass of

the Adult Non-Alcoholic Beverage high-end Barolo. But do we need
Association we discussed the role them to?
of technology in providing more
interest non-alcohol alternatives. Overall, I think that's part of the big
Do you think technological discussion. It's a good discussion to
advances may support people
finding more balance?
have, I think the wine industry, we
have a habit of getting in our own
“You know,
RH: Yes. I think for non-alcoholic way, about things that we don't like they’re never
to be a success, taste is such a big to talk about.
part of this discussion. If it doesn't going to replace
taste good, it's not going to sell
well. Non-alcoholic beers and wine
ASI: So how should one or do you
live a balanced life?
a great glass of
have been around for decades, but NF: A balanced diet is the key high-end Barolo.
non-alcoholic wine was something element for a healthy lifestyle: It is
found on the bottom shelf that no important to carefully choose what But do we need
one really talks about. It wasn't
very good. There have been new
a person eats and drinks, indeed
both quality and quantity should
them to?”
innovations within dealcoholisation, be considered when talking about a – Rebecca Hopkins
and new ways of reconstructing balanced diet. Healthy lifestyles also
Moderation and Living a Balanced Life

beverages. I think the biggest include important aspects such as

challenge is still wine, although I a good sleep, regular exercise, etc.
think that there has been some All aspects that one should keep in
success in sparkling wine and mind at all times I believe, whether
aromatic whites, but (non-alcoholic) they work in the service industry
red wines are a long way away. or not.

18
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

Non-Alcoholic Wine Brands to

4 Get to Know

Leitz Eins-Zwei-Zero
Weingut Leitz’s more than 140 hectares of
vineyard land occupy some enviable locations
within the Rheingau, including various Grand Cru
Thomson & Scott Noughty
sites. Known for crafting expressive and revered
Amanda Thomson, CEO and Founder of the B
Rieslings, in 2007 Leitz expanded their offering
Corp Certified Thomson & Scott, has taken the
to include a lineup of accessible wines, made in a
non-alcoholic wine world by storm with Noughty, a
dry style, called Eins-Zwei-Dry in their top wines.
brand of alcohol free, organic, vegan, halal wines.
The winery, under the direction of Johannes Leitz,
They are gaining world-wide acclaim for their
continues to evolve and modernise. Their Eins-
non-alcoholic sparkling wines including a vivacious
Zwei-Zero brand of non-alcoholic wines made
Sparkling Chardonnay, dealcoholsed
from Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir can
via vacuum distillation, which registers
be found in many countries and are often lauded
at only 14 calories per glass. The brand
by critics.
is so successful it is popping up at
hip wine bars and restaurants
around the world.

FEATURE ARTICLE
Giesen
New Zealand-based Giesen’s Non-
Alcoholic Sauvignon Blanc is the
best selling premium dealcoholised
wine in the US. The popularity of the
wine leading to Giesen to expand its
Canada’s Wine Proxies: Acid League
programme to include Pinot Grigio,
Riesling, a sparkling wine, rosé and a
and Benjamin Bridge
The no and low alcohol trend in Canada have
red blend.
taken of. Leading the charge are producers
of wine proxies (wine substitutes). The first to
gain national attention and recognition for their
brand was Ontario’s Acid League. The team of
mixologists use vinegars, fruit juice, teas and
spices to concoct drinks which have a taste in-line
Moderation and Living a Balanced Life

with wine. On the country’s east coast, Benjamin

Bridge, a world class producer of traditional
method sparkling wines has been inspired by
piquette to use leftover grape skins and mineral
water as their flavour base, but instead of
fermentation using other flavours to build their
line of Piquette Zero wine alternatives.

19
 JAPAN SAKE AND SHOCHU MAKERS ASSOCIATION | JSS

Important Tips for Sake

Managing storage

Sake is very sensitive to heat and light while in storage. Ideally, it should be stored at a cool temperature of between
1-8°C, with little fluctuation in temperature, protected from sunlight, and with minimum exposure to light, including
no sterilising lights or fluorescent lights. Sake needs to be kept in dark and cold areas all the time, both before and
after opening the bottle.

Unlike wine, most sake does not have a cork and so has no need for high humidity. There is also no need to lay sake
bottles on their side in storage. They can be left standing upright in a fridge.

After opening a bottle of sake, it gradually begins to oxidise. However, its flavor does not change as quickly as wine.
It can be in good condition for at least 3 weeks or as long as three months, so you don’t have to be afraid to sell by
the glass. To keep the freshness of an open bottle, cap it airtight and store it in a refrigerator.

Namazake (unpasteurised sake) and Ginjo or Daiginjo, which have delicate aromas, need particularly careful handling.

Keep in mind that some negative perceptions of sake, for example, that it smells like pickled vegetables or musky, are
a result of wrong handling of storage and not due to the sake’s intrinsic nature. This will continue to be a very serious
concern for the sake industry. More and more specialists and importers are started storing sake in cold cellars, but this
important tip has yet to be widely spread to the world market and JSS is trying harder to spread it.

If you would like to find more about serving tips for Japanese sake, please go to our website:

https://japansake.or.jp/sake/en/sake-statistics-data/others/
Japanese-Sake_Service-and-Knowledge_The-Sake-Manual
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

Foraging Flavour,

FEATURE ARTICLE
Preserving Heritage:
infusing a taste of Brazil
With Néli Pereira

Brazilian mixologist Néli Pereira

has carved her own unique path, N éli Pereira's contributions to the world of mixology extend beyond her
craft. She actively engages in mentorship programmes and educational
captivating cocktail enthusiasts initiatives, sharing her knowledge and passion with aspiring mixologists. Foraging Flavour, Preserving Heritage: infusing a taste of Brazil
with her innovative concoctions Pereira believes in the power of collaboration and regularly collaborates
and artistic approach to libations. with fellow mixologists, chefs, and artisans, fostering a sense of community
But what makes Pereira’s and pushing the boundaries of mixology even further.
approach truly stand out in the
world of mixology has been her ASI: What inspired you to investigate using indigenous Brazilian ingredients
dedication to sustainability and for infusions and cocktails?
the celebration of Brazil using her Néli Pereira (NP): The Brazilian culture is my main source of inspiration.
country’s indigenous ingredients. Actually, my interest in Brazil precedes my work with cocktailing. I was a
Pereira prioritises sourcing cultural journalist for quite a long time (working both in Brazil and abroad,
local and seasonal ingredients, such as at the BBC) and that made me study a lot about my country – which
reducing waste, and advocating for led me to two Masters Degrees in Brazilian culture – one here in Brazil and
environmentally friendly practices another in London, where I did Cultural Studies. So, when my husband,
within the industry. Pereira strives Renato Larini, who is an artist, decided to open our place, Espaço Zebra,
to inspire others to approach a hybrid art gallery and a bar in São Paulo in 2012, I was interested in
mixology with a conscious mindset, discovering what the cocktail scene was like in the country. I was already
emphasising the importance of studying wine – I completed a three-year course on wine – and whisky back
preserving our natural resources. then. It came as a surprise to me that very little was being done with local

21
 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

ingredients – not only indigenous, ASI: Do you feel like what you are and how I can contribute with my
but local in general – fruits, herbs, doing for cocktails is an extension, work to preserve our culture and
barks, plants that we use to make or parallel, to the Nordic cuisine, to shed a light into our ingredients,
our medicines, but no one had an foraging movement that emerged in so they remain with us, not risking
idea of how they actually taste, the early part of this century? extinction simply because we don’t
or how they could be used as NP: I think that my work is very use or know or appreciate them.
ingredients for cocktails. Perhaps much related to the “spirits of the Put it this way: I wouldn’t be making
most surprising Brazilian bars, time”, playing with words here but cocktails if they weren’t about Brazil.
which we call “botecos”, were it is, sort of in the zeitgeist. There is My interest came exactly because
already making infusions with those the foraging movement, the return there was research I could do and
ingredients. I just connected the of the apothecary cocktails, and contribute to here with our local
dots: there is a huge biodiversity here in Brazil a consciousness about knowledge and ingredients. I use
and knowledge around those our huge biodiversity. cocktails as a way of talking about,
ingredients, and somehow a communicate with and about the
technique that we are already Although there are some Brazilian culture.
familiar with both in the botecos resemblances to the Nordic
and in our popular medicine with movement, I never look too much ASI: We use this idea of terroir
the “garrafadas” wasn’t being used to the outside, but mainly to my in the wine world as a word that
for modern cocktails. “Garrafadas”, roots and my own territory, which conveys how the combination
which translates literally to bottled, is the Brazilian culture. Here we are of climate, geography, culture,
are well-known medicines. They are also looking for ways to keep our and other factors connect to the
a mixture of plants, herbs, barks in forests standing, to keep the people character of a wine. Do you feel
alcohol, normally wine or cachaça, who still live in our forests alive like you are bringing an element of
and have been used since the 1500s and well, especially the indigenous terroir to cocktail culture by your
FEATURE ARTICLE

in the country – they are our own communities, and we are also focus on local ingredients?
way of making elixirs, vermouth, looking to source our ingredients NP: I sincerely hope I am
amaro etcetera. locally both for the sake of nature, contributing to this, especially
environment, but also economy. I when I do research about the
The difference here in Brazil is that think I am influenced more about Brazilian biomes and how they
they were still restricted to medicine what is going on here in Brazil connect to their region’s climate,
and had not yet come to the cocktail
bar scene, even though they were
already in the botecos. All I did
was to bring these into the cocktail
scene and started the enormous
process of researching them, so
we could have a Brazilian cocktail,
Foraging Flavour, Preserving Heritage: infusing a taste of Brazil

not only in the way the drinks are

made, but also in the content of
them. That research resulted in the
book “Da Botica ao Boteco: Plantas,
Garrafadas e a Coquetelaria
Brasileira”, (“From The Apothecary
to the Bar: Plants, Garrafadas and
Brazilian Cocktails”), launched last
September. It is a book about the
history of infusing herbs and plants
into alcohol in Brazil. It’s a sort of
a “Drunken Botanist”, but Brazilian
“Put it this way: I wouldn’t be
style. I sincerely hope that it gets an making cocktails if they weren’t
English translation, I think it would
be amazing for people outside about Brazil.”
Brazil to get in touch with all this – Néli Pereira
culture, tradition, and flavour.

22
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

popular and traditional culture and with this in a more meaningful and
knowledge, geography, etc. But authentic present. My next book,
Brazil is a continental country, so all which will come out early in 2025 is
I can do is to show a way of doing, dedicated to the historic traditions
so others can reproduce those of drinks and cocktails, and
techniques and search for their own ancestral beverages, among other
ingredients in their own terroirs - or subjects. I truly believe that there
territories, as I prefer to call them. is a lot of culture still hidden in our
I want to open a path for others to sips and bottles.
walk along and incorporate their
own cultures. And it is impressive I know it sounds odd, but if you go
what we can do in Brazil – both in to a supermarket here in Brazil, you
the beaches and countryside, from will probably find more fruits and
North to South, from the Amazon plants, and other foods that are
to the Pampas. There is just so NOT regional and local. We have a
much we can still taste and toast terrible way of treating what is ours,
to and with. and it is about time we change that
to value and appreciate more what
The most amazing thing about is Brazilian than what comes from
Brazil is when you find a new abroad. To recognise what is ours
ingredient – be it a fruit, a bark, a is a good first step. Here is where
plant, or a herb – you get to know my work becomes very valuable. It
the traditional knowledge behind helps us recognise what is ours so
them – both the ancestral way and we can both use and preserve it.

FEATURE ARTICLE
the popular way that this ingredient
have been used throughout time. ASI: Do you believe learning about
Then you learn a bit more about a country’s food and drink traditions
Brazil along the way. provides insights on culture. Do
you think your work brings new
ASI: I feel like in the wine world awareness of Brazilian culture?
there is currently a lot of innovation NP: I hope it does, that is precisely
that is based on ancestral ways why I do what I do: to value and
of making wine, not least of to celebrate the Brazilian culture,
which is the movement to natural ingredients, people and traditions.
winemaking and the use of It is a different way, maybe a more
amphora. Do you feel like you are fun way to talk about a culture.
also reviving historic traditions in Offering a cocktail, showing a new
Brazil via what you are doing? ingredient, playing with flavours, Foraging Flavour, Preserving Heritage: infusing a taste of Brazil
NP: Definitely. My research involves and techniques, is interesting
both the ingredients and their not only for foreigners, but for
traditions, but also their history, Brazilians as well. It is a way for
how they were and still are used by Brazilians and foreigners alike to
those who have been guarding and get to know these ingredients,
preserving this culture. When I talk flavours and all the popular and
about “garrafadas” that is exactly traditional knowledge attached to
what I am doing: using both form them. In addition, it is an awareness
and content that is ours, Brazilian, of our techniques, and our way of
and have been passing from using alcohol, plants, fermentation,
generation to generation orally. I etcetera. Even more importantly,
intend to register that, and to show it is a way to alert us about our
that by looking at the past we can environment and the need to
build a different future, and work take care of our biomes and plant
diversity.

23
 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

ASI: What are some Brazilian Last but not least, catuaba.
ingredients you use for cocktails, Catuaba is a tree, and its barks are
infusions you think the world well known for their stimulating
should know about? properties. Also used in popular
NP: You got me here! So many! medicine for sexual problems,
But I will choose three: a herb, a and as a natural “aphrodisiac”, its
bark and a fruit. flavour is amazing: very tannic,
very woody, very astringent. It is
“That is
First, a herb that is already famous also tart. It is used for a very cheap precisely why
because it is related to the Sichuan mixed beverage that is sold during
pepper, which is “jambu” (Acmella carnival in Brazil, but I use its I do what I do:
oleracea). Jambu is used in North barks to do both a vermouth and a
Brazil to season typical dishes such liquor with it and have it replacing
to value and
as Tacacá and also its flower, known vermouth rosso in both Negronis, to celebrate
as “jamburana” is traditionally Boulevardiers, Rabo de Galos, and
infused in cachaça. Besides the Manhattans. It also goes very well the Brazilian
herbal and a bit of a salty taste, with tonic water.
it also tingles the tastebuds and
culture,
leaves the mouth a bit numb, There are loads more: our little ingredients,
intensifying salivation. It is an berries are amazing, and there are
amazing flavour and sensation. One so many barks and plants. You just people and
of the cocktails I make with it, is I have to come taste it here and toast
traditions.”
FEATURE ARTICLE

use the leaves that are weaker in to our amazing Brazilian culture!
the tingling aspect, infused in gin to Saúde, as we say! – Néli Pereira
make a “Trembling” Fitzgerald.

The second, a fruit: “jurubeba”

(Solanum paniculatum). It is a cousin
of the tomato, but a lot smaller, not
as popular, and green in colour. It
is rich in umami, sweet and bitter,
tannic and has a mouth-filling
flavour. It is used traditionally
to help relieve liver pains, but in
gastronomy as a pickle and it is also
Foraging Flavour, Preserving Heritage: infusing a taste of Brazil

used to make a very popular, but

cheap wine. I am very much into it
and do, amongst other things, make
a cocktail with vodka infused with
jurubeba and cynar. Not suprisingly,
it makes a great Bloody Mary vodka
as well. Its roots are also delicious:
normally used to make teas and
popular medicines for the liver
and stomach, they have a minty,
woody, fresh earthy flavour that Espaço Zebra
works amazingly well in amaro
and vermouth.

24
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

Grains and Grapes:

wines and cocktails
sharing the stage
With Steve Pineau and Mason Ng

FEATURE ARTICLE
T he notion of fine dining being the exclusive domain of wine is vanishing
as consumers who have grown up on cocktail culture enter mid-life.
Increasingly grapes and grains are co-mingling as savvy sommeliers and
mixologists erase the longstanding divide between the bar, the domain of
mixologists, and the sommelier’s cellar. We ask two sommeliers to weigh
in on their thoughts about finding balance between their wine, spirits, and
cocktail programmes.

Mason Ng works as the Wine Director for the Park90 Group. In 2019 he won
Grains and Grapes: wines and cocktails sharing the stage

both Best Sommelier of Singapore and Best Sommelier of South-East Asia

titles. Last year he won the title of Best Sommelier of Asia & Oceania. Before
his current position and after time spent working at 3 Michelin Star, Les
Amis restaurant, Ng took time to up his spirit knowledge and cocktail skills at
Singapore’s ATLAS, an award-winning cocktail and Champagne bar.
Steve Pineau

Steve Pineau is a well-known UK-based barman known for creating bars

that are one part cocktail bar and one part wine bar. He is the co-founder
of London’s Old Brampton Wine Bar, Case Wine Bar and Cheese Shop and
Owner of L’atelier du Vin & Prohibition Cocktail Bar, in Brighton. Prior to
opening his own establishments, Pineau worked as an industry consultant
and in the past worked alongside the great Gérard Basset as Bar Manager at
the Hotel du Vin. Of his time there Pineau remarks “when I first met Gérard
at the Hotel du Vin in Winchester, what struck me was Gerard’s varied drinks
interests and his vast knowledge about pretty much anything that was
liquid. Gérard knew and had tasted everything one could imagine or name,
from Aquavit to Chartreuse (Gérard’s favourite drink).

25
 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

As a young barman this was mind in Japan, one of them even showed
blowing! He was the first person in us sake grown on different terroirs
the beverage industry I knew who - Tatsuriki Terroir Sake, that was an
cared and knew about spirits as absolutely mind-blowing visit.”
much as he cared about wine. All
I can say is that I was so lucky to It is an evolution Pineau has
meet him in those early years of been witnessing for some time,
my career as he enabled me to as the period when service was
pursue my passion of spirits, as well predominantly about wine, and
as develop love and appreciation spirits simply a suggestion of
for wine.” Cognac or Whisky post dinner
has gone. This evolution inspired
While Pineau and Ng come from Pineau’s vision to bring wine and
different sides of the proverbial bar, spirits together, and to as he
both see similar trends occurring says, “cohesively interlace the
Mason Ng in the industry. Pineau says “over guest journey with balanced and
the last 25 years, diners are more knowledgeable service that brings
courageous and knowledgeable, wine and bar together. A guest
both about wine and spirits. journey that is rich with spirit and
Trends and guest expectations wine elements finally tuned and at
have shifted over the years and the same table.”
“In this time it is not unknown to have guests
and era, I think who want to match food courses
with wine, cocktails or even beers.
With knowledge bases for both
bartenders and sommeliers at
it’s important Variety and guests’ individualities, an all-time high, is it reasonable
and “forwardness” to ask what to think a sommelier can be a
to diversify
FEATURE ARTICLE

they want is truly shaping the mixologist, bartender or vice-versa?

and provide way we, restaurants are thinking, Pineau doesn’t think so. “In my
cooking, and shaping both our establishments we try to get a good
more options food and drinks menus.” It is a level of sommelier with a good
point supported by Ng who says basic knowledge of bar, but saying
for guests, “in this time and era, I think it's this, there are still two different
especially important to diversify and provide jobs at stake. Unfortunately, its
more options for guests, especially nearly impossible to be able to get
quality quality beverages be it alcoholic a high level in both. Gérard (Basset)
or otherwise. For me, I think might have been the only one who
beverages be apart from spirits and cocktails was indeed able to do both. My
it alcoholic or for alcoholic options, sake should barman and Sommeliers usually
have a bigger placement on wine work in the same team but have
otherwise.” lists. There are so many micro- their own skills.” Pineau likens it to
Grains and Grapes: wines and cocktails sharing the stage

breweries which I visited recently the difference between the main

– Mason Ng
kitchen and pastry, noting although
they work in the same department,
they have different skills.” Ng agrees
“my girlfriend is a bartender, and
we discuss this often. I have learned
a lot from her, in fact she was my
coach for the Best Sommelier of
Asia and Oceania competition for
the cocktails and spirit section.
The simple answer is while both
jobs, are seemingly similar in
terms of handling beverages, they
are extremely different and to
some extent, almost unlinked. A
bartender can be an extremely
successful one if they are able to

26
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

“I see this only

as an invitation
to experiment
and bring grain
(spirit) and
grape (wine)
closer to them.”
– Steve Pineau

fully grasp the flavours of each I see this only as an invitation to needs and maybe even surprise
component and utilise it correctly, experiment and bring grain (spirit) them with something interesting

FEATURE ARTICLE
with balance. A general sommelier, and grape (wine) closer to them. from your collection. Rum and
however, would have no clue of With allergies and guest desires tequila are definitely growing and
blending different components into not to be led nowadays, it only very surprisingly absinthe is too,
one or even customising a drink for makes sense to have variety on not served as a shot but the ‘proper
someone. To the contrary, if a wine offer, both economically for one way’ with the sugar and via the
list doesn't have the flavour profile single experience, but also building Fontaine of Water.”
that one seeks, the best bet is to up a rapport with guests for the
recommend the closest possible future.” Ng identifies having a Ng says, “interestingly, I see a trend
option, not adding sugar into an broad range of offerings gives the of cocktail groups having a better
Alsace Riesling, if you understand guest a level of comfort and choice, emphasis on the wine programmes
my point. I think as a sommelier saying, “some people enjoy having in their outlets. Some are even
you need to know all your classic a Bourbon with their caviar while expanding to list natural wines too,
cocktails, basic cocktail services most prefer Champagnes. Who are since the vibe is generally more
as well as have spirits, liquor we to judge if a guest enjoys it? I relaxed, casual and fun. A few Grains and Grapes: wines and cocktails sharing the stage
knowledge. As a floor staff, I always feel the most important aspect of cocktail groups that come to mind
say this, knowledge is your passport hospitality in the food and beverage include The Nutmeg & Clove group
to go anywhere, everywhere. The industry is to listen to what guests which includes a few other projects.
more you study, be it wines or like or look for, not shoving a bottle 0202 and the Last Word, having a
cocktails, the more opportunity will of wine you learned about on a wine programme of around 100
arise, it will bring you to places, so recent wine trip, unless, of course, labels, spanning from natural wines,
never stop studying or learning.” they ask. I think the investment is grower Champagnes to classic
worth the return as you have more wines as well as Grande Marquees.
Transitioning from a wine-centric options up your sleeves to provide Another one would be the Jigger
establishment to one with more your guests.” and Pony group, with outlets like
balance comes with investment. Rosemead and Humpback, which
Does that investment both in As for what’s currently trending, has a great wine programme led by
labour and inventory justify itself? Pineau says, “consumers are asking Head Sommelier Marcus Tan. This is
Pineau answers, “I obviously for spirits like straight whisky, rum, to show that restaurants and wine
say yes. Guests are nowadays and tequila as public knowledge bars should likewise, up their
“liberated” to explore and not is growing. It is rather rewarding game too.”
conform to standard offerings, so when you can meet someone’s

27
 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

5 Favourites with...
Favourite wine to enjoy by the
glass: Chassagne Montrachet, Les
Favourite cocktail: Sazerac Masures, Gagnard

5 1

...
Favourite spirit Steve Pineau Favourite post-
to enjoy neat:
Laberdolive 79
4 2 work beverage:
Campari and Tonic
Domaine Jaurney
FEATURE ARTICLE

3
Favourite beer: Kwack

Favourite wine to enjoy by the

Favourite cocktail: Fernet Sour glass: A beautifully sweet Tokaji

5 1
Grains and Grapes: wines and cocktails sharing the stage

... Favourite post-

work beverage:
Favourite spirit to Mason Ng Ice-cold Whisky
enjoy neat: Vodka,
Beluga Gold Line,
4 2 Highball, made with
a simple Blended
iced, chilled Scotch Whisky such
as Johnnie Walker
Black Label.

3
Favourite beer: Estrella Damm Inedit
28
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

Beer-onomics:
satiating
consumer
demand is
always good
business
With Jesse Vallins

FEATURE ARTICLE
“There are a C hef Jesse Vallins is an Advanced Level Cicerone and a graduate of
the Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers Sommelier
lot of flavours Certification Program. While he knows grapes, and works as a chef at
Barberian's Steakhouse, which is home to one of Canada’s largest wine
present in beer collections, his passion lies in beer. We asked Chef Vallins about where

that are absent beer’s place is in a fine dining setting and how sommeliers, in general, are
doing with incorporating the world’s most popular fermented beverage into
or rare in wine, their drinks programme.

so anything that ASI: What inspired you to become a cicerone?

a beer brings to Jesse Vallins (JV): Ever since starting in restaurants as a teenager, I've had

Beer-onomics: satiating consumer demand is always good business

a passion for flavour and always found the world of drinks and pairings
the table that fascinating. As such, I’ve always sought to expand my knowledge on the
subject. I went after the Cicerone certification, at first, because I wanted
wine doesn’t to prove that I wasn't just a beer geek, that I had good beer knowledge.

is a natural From there it's been the desire to be not just a chef, but a well-rounded
professional in hospitality. I decided to take the advanced exam because I felt
advantage if I'd progressed further than the certified level and wanted something to show
for that. It's opened opportunities for teaching and writing which I really enjoy.
it helps your I would love to challenge the Master Cicerone exam one day, but I would need

pairing.” to put aside a lot of time to study. Perhaps in a couple of years.

ASI: You work at a restaurant, Barberian's Steakhouse, that is known for

having one of the biggest wine lists in Canada. How does beer find a place
on the beverage list at Barbarians?
JV: Barberian's is undeniably a wine destination, so as one might guess, beer
is a small portion of our beverage programme. We do have options for guests
who want beer or aren't wine drinkers, though. We even have a beer brewed
exclusively for us by Henderson Brewing in Toronto called Barberian's Rare
Ale, it's an oak aged English style ale and it pairs extremely well with steak.

29
 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

ASI: From an economics

perspective, are you challenged to
make beer part of the fine dining
experience?
JV: With how much the cost of
everything has increased over the
last few years, it's definitely an
issue, and the restaurant business
is a business, so you always need
to be conscious of that. I've had
more than one restaurant general
manager or owner tell me they
didn't want to sell more beer
because then the restaurant would
make less money. On one hand
they have a point, and if something
isn't broken it doesn't need fixing.
Barberian’s Steakhouse At the same time, I don't think it's
necessarily the case that people
will order only beer and therefore
ASI: With shifting consumer that a beer brings to the table that spend less. Not every guest is
preferences there was a big rise in wine doesn't is a natural advantage looking to order wine by the bottle.
demand in craft beer in the 2010s. if it helps your pairing. After that I A lot of draft, bottled, and canned
Are you finding this translated think beer's biggest aid to pairing beer can be sold at prices in line
to consumers becoming more is its carbonation. If we think about with wines by the glass, and I've had
FEATURE ARTICLE

interested in having a craft beer, why sparkling wine pairs easily many meals in restaurants where
instead of wine, at the restaurant? with food, part of that has to do I've ordered beer before getting into
JV: Only a small amount at with its bubbles that help to scrub the wine list. In these cases, I was
Barberian's due to our wine focus. rich foods off our tongue and keep spending more than I would have
Not surprisingly, as you wouldn't go our palates fresh for the next bite. if the beer wasn't there. I know I'm
to a sushi restaurant and look for Personally, though, I think looking not the only one who enjoys dining
a wide selection of cooked dishes at one beverage or the other as this way, so more beer options can
or non-fish items on the menu, better, or having an advantage, is increase rather than lower sales.
regardless of your preference. the wrong approach. Beer will pair
That said, I've seen this trend in easier with certain foods over wine, I think a lot of people might mistake
the hospitality industry in general but if you're honest with yourself, a robust beer programme for a
Beer-onomics: satiating consumer demand is always good business

over the last decade or so, though. you have to accept that it works large beer list. A beverage list is
I think it's a good thing, it shows the other way around, too. Beyond meant to be drunk and enjoyed, not
people are more educated on beer that, whether we think something drooled over, and it isn't difficult to
and open to trying different styles. is better we have to offer people offer a handful of well-chosen beers
what they want. For example, to on the menu. It shows attention to
ASI: In terms of food and drink me, beer pairs better with cheese detail and guests will appreciate it.
pairing, in your opinion, are there than any other liquid on earth, but if
any advantages beer has over my guest in the restaurant ordering ASI: Do you find sommeliers are
wine? Do you find customers are that cheese plate isn't a beer well-versed in beer knowledge or
interested in exploring beer and drinker, it doesn't matter. If a paying should there be greater emphasis
food pairings? customer wants to be educated or on beer and other beverages in
JV: In the late 90s when I started is open to trying something new, sommelier programmes?
getting into beer, pairing it with they'll usually let you know, but JV: The short answer is yes, there
food was almost unheard of, or until then your job is only to please should be a greater emphasis
at best not taken very seriously. them. I think the best approach in sommelier programmes, and
These days with beer's surging for beverage professionals is to sommeliers should be taking it
popularity, it's a common thing, and see beer and wine as both having upon themselves to learn about
I think that's great. There are a lot a valid spot with food at the table beer and other beverages, too.
of flavours present in beer that are and guide their guests to whichever
absent or rare in wine, so anything drink will make them happiest.

30
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

The long answer is that it's world. Sommeliers are better

complicated. On one hand, an versed in beer than they used to
individual works toward becoming be, but there's still a long way to
a sommelier because of a primary go. A sommelier certification is an
interest in wine, so they're going impressive achievement, it shows
to have that as their main focus, dedication and knowledge, but we
not just over beer, but anything shouldn't forget to stay humble
else. Even still, wider beverage and in a state of learning. I get the
knowledge impression from some sommeliers
will never be that beer is easy, it's "just beer",
“A beverage a bad thing, and they don't really have to put a
list is meant to even if you lot of effort into studying to really
don't need to understand or serve it properly.
be drunk and use it all the More than a few times I've heard
time. While somms in a restaurant describe
enjoyed, not I suppose it a beer to a guest confidently as
drooled over, would depend "malty" or "hoppy", it makes me
to a certain cringe. If that same sommelier
and it isn’t point on described a wine to you as "grapey",
the type of would you take what they were
difficult to offer establishment saying very seriously? I've had
a handful of the sommelier robust Belgian strong ales served
is working to me near freezing in a shaker pint
well-chosen for and the and it lets me know the restaurant
isn't taking beer seriously. This may
beers on the expectations
of their seem nit-picky, but if you ponied

FEATURE ARTICLE
menu.” guests, the up for a good bottle of Côte-Rôtie,
hospitality and then it came to you ice cold
industry and poured into a Champagne
is constantly evolving, and a flute, how would you feel about
sommelier should have a good the money you were spending? I'm
knowledge of anything being not saying all sommeliers should
offered on their list. take beer to the level that I have,
but if you can memorise all the
I've been studying beer and wine Grand Crus in Burgundy, you can
for over 20 years and have worked learn the difference between an ale
with a lot of people in the drink’s and a lager and learn some flavour

Beer-onomics: satiating consumer demand is always good business

descriptors.

31
 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

Harvesting
the Flavours
of Miraval:
The Gardener Gin’s
Tom Nichol

T om Nichol isn’t your typical ‘celebrity’ distiller. The man that crafted
Tanqueray 10 for Diageo, considered by many as ‘the’ or ‘one of the’
When Matthieu Perrin, of Famille
Perrin called about a potential
FEATURE ARTICLE

greatest gin ever made lives an unassuming life of a retiree in Scotland. The project, he thought it would be
down-to-earth Nichol is almost dismissive of his success saying he has yet to impolite not to at least reply. He
craft a gin he is entirely happy with. admits that he is very inquisitive
by nature so the idea of working
with a chateau in Southern France
sounded a little intriguing and it
(Southern France) didn’t seem like
too far to travel.

As for the first call with Perrin,

Nichol says it’s an important one as
Harvesting the Flavours of Miraval: The Gardener Gin’s Tom Nichol

he wants to judge the character of

the person on the other end of the
phone. According to Nichol “who
I work with is the most important
criteria when deciding to take on a
job.” After all Nichol doesn’t need
to work with anyone. He is happy
to be retired after years working
with beverage behemoth Diageo.
Matthieu Perrin and Tom Nichol As such he is very selective about
the projects he works on. Of his first
call with Perrin, Nichol says “once I
start talking with someone I almost
immediately decide if I want to
“I must be inspired by the people work with them. I must be inspired
by the people I work with, and if I
I work with, and if I don’t like don’t like them then I won’t work

them then I won’t work with with them. That’s the bottom line. I
don’t need to work with anyone, but
them. That’s the bottom line.” I liked him (Matthieu Perrin) a lot.”

32
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

Perrin had earned Nichol’s respect, As I recall I had to take the call in Nichol had started to formulate
but would Perrin agree to his terms. my car as I was stuck in traffic. an image of the gin based on the
Nichol says he isn’t a businessman. After I agreed to take on the project original input from Perrin and
Towards the end of those initial Matthieu asked me if I would mind his team, but a trip to Château
conversations, he advises potential if my signature was on the bottle. Miraval, Pitt’s southern French
clients, including Perrin, of his I said ‘sure’. Then he said told me estate where he produces wine, in
terms, with a take it or leave it it will my signature alongside his partnership with Famille Perrin, and
attitude. “They usually say ‘okay own and Brad Pitt.” It was only then olive oil, solidified the deal. Once
I will get back to you.’ I generally Nichol realised the Oscar-winning he was there, the picture became
don’t expect to hear back but when actor was part of the project. “To that much clearer. Of course, his
they do (as Perrin did) there’s a be honest it didn’t really matter at partners had some requests, in
moment when reality sets in.” all, but once I knew Brad Pitt was terms of the botanicals and herbs
involved, I did get back to them they wanted in the blend. Nichol
At this point, Nichol was still and say ‘did you really need me?’. would get numerous packages
unaware of the Brad Pitt To be honest, If you have Brad Pitt sent to him with different potential
connection. It wasn’t until he on a bottle you can put anything ingredients. Of the process Nichol
confirmed his decision, that he in there and it will sell.” Thankfully says “it took a long time (with a lot
heard of the actor’s involvement. for Nichol, they wanted quality of test micro-distillations), before
Nichol says “I had no idea he was inside the bottle, which according getting to a point where I said I
involved at all. It wasn’t until after to Nichol isn’t always the case with would include this or that. They
I'd said I would do the project which celebrity brands, some of which he (Famille Perrin) were very good
in this case was during a phone describes as ‘horrendous.’ about the process. They essentially

FEATURE ARTICLE
meeting I was running late for. let me do what was needed to
achieve balance in the final recipe
and flavour profile.”

Nichol describes the gin as having

a significant citrus component and
a taste of Southern France, even
of Château Miraval itself. Of the
final product, he wanted it to have
a welcoming Mediterranean spirit
about it. According to Nichol “it had

Harvesting the Flavours of Miraval: The Gardener Gin’s Tom Nichol

to be something enjoyable, that
could be enjoyed on its own, and
designed not just for rich people to
enjoy on their yachts.” As for how
to serve it. While Nichol suggests
bartenders can enhance the gin
through cocktail creation, the gin
has also been designed to be drunk
on its own, as well. In fact, it’s the
only way Nichol drinks it.

Brad Pitt and Matthieu Perrin

33
 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

A Taste of Iceland: artic flavours

With Alba Hough

Alba Hough is a well- The gin which at the time was a Alba’s Old Tom Negroni
known member of the fairly raw product but has since 1 oz (3 cl) Himbrimi Old Tom Gin
been elevated. Hough took over 1 oz (3 cl) Campari
ASI Family. The former
as distiller in 2021. Their gins, 1 oz (3 cl) Amaro Montenegro
Icelandic sommelier produced using a still powered Orange peel
champion and president by geothermal energy, are made
of the Icelandic Sommelier from wild Icelandic botanicals and Directions:
Association is currently a finished with Icelandic water which Place Himbrimi Old Tom Gin,
valued member of the ASI Hough claims to be the best in Campari and Amaro Montenegro
the world even if “our cousins in in an ice-filled mixing glass. Stir to
Diversity Committee. She
the other Nordic countries might desired dilution. Pour into glass
is also the distiller and CPO
protest the assertion.” According with a single, large ice cube. Rim
(Chief Product Officer) of to Hough “the original idea for this glass with orange peel and express
Himbrimi Gin, a project gin was to have something to bring over the glass. Add to glass as a
that started as Hough on holiday fishing trips, made from garnish.
describes as a “kitchen table ingredients found around the rivers
experiment, while I was and lakes here in Iceland. Almost *Hough suggests substituting sweet
every ingredient can be picked just vermouth traditionally used to make a
working as Head Sommelier
by walking down by a stream and Negroni with Amaro Montenegro.
FEATURE ARTICLE

for an Icelandic hotel chain.” they all play an important role in

our food culture in general. Juniper,
angelica, and arctic thyme are just Two Dirty Birds
a few of the botanicals commonly 2 oz (6 cl) Himbrimi Winterbird
used for curing, marinating, London Dry
smoking etc. We believe our gins ½ oz (1.5 cl) Himbrimi Old Tom
echo those aromatics found in our 2 dashes Electric Bitters*
natural environment.” 3 drops olive oil
3 Taggiasca olives, for garnish
Their flagship product ‘Old Tom’
is sweetened with honey which Directions:
Harvesting the Flavours of Miraval: The Gardener Gin’s Tom Nichol

according to Hough results in “an Place ingredients in an ice-filled

ideal sipping gin that becomes more mixing glass. Stir to desired dilution.
complex with each sip. It’s a gin that Pour into glass with a single, large
we have found is appreciated by ice cube. Garnish with olives.
whisky and rum enthusiasts.” Their
Himbrimi Winterbird London Dry *The main botanical used is acmella
meanwhile has similar aromatics oleracea, also known as the 'electric
but has no honey addition resulting daisy.’
in a drier gin which Hough describes
as “very Icelandic in structure.” The
botanticals used also are part of
Icelandic cooking culture as they
are same ones used for curing,
marinating and smoking. The end
result are gins that truly reflect the
spirit, culture and terroir of this
isolated country surrounded by the
chilling waters of the North Atlantic,
Greenland and Norwegian seas.

34
The Wine Industry at a Crossroads

Wine Future 2023, to be held in the beautiful and historic city of Coimbra from 7th to 9th November 2023,
will address a wine industry at a crossroads. The challenges are myriad, and both external and intrinsic to
the current shape of the industry. Climate change, economic upheaval, competition from other beverages,
including no/low alcohol, and the war in Ukraine all present substantial external challenges. Internally, the
industry is struggling with generational shift, both in its workforce and its consumers, and to move away from
both a real and perceived focus on middle-aged, straight, cis-gender white men as its core.

Wine Future 2023 will address all of these issues, with a broad range of exciting, challenging and compelling
speakers. Keynote speakers include the multi-talented Bruce Dickinson, Iron Maiden front man, airline pilot,
fencer and brewer; Dr Laura Catena, known as the face of Argentine wine and an expert in wine and health;
Max Trejo, General Secretary for the International Youth Organisation will speak about the importance of
moderation, and efforts to tackle problem drinking in young people; Rob McMillan will discuss the Silicon
Valley Bank’s highly rated State of the Wine Industry report; and Nobel laureate Sir Christopher Pissarides
will explore the future of the world economy and the impact of technology, especially AI, on the wine industry
labour market.

Panels will include discussions on diversity, equality and inclusion in the wine industry; the role of influencers;
sustainability and greenwashing, the impact of advanced technologies, and the role of wine tourism.

There are also three spectacular tastings, covering icon wines from around the world hosted by Mark Squires,
legendary fortified wines led by Richard Mayson, and the stars of the Portuguese wine industry led by Dirceu
Vianna Jr MW.

Registrations for Wine Future 2023 are open at www.winefuture.org

 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

Good to the
ASI: Do you think it is fair to say
that there has been a revolution in
coffee service over the last quarter

Last Drop:
century?
Paolo Grifo (PG): When we look
at the revolution in coffee service
it is important to analyse the

maximising history of coffee consumption

to understand contemporary
consumer preferences and rituals.

the coffee
Today consumers use coffee as
a mean for the expression of
individual personality. They study

experience
geographical origins, and the
impact of the coffee roasting profile
on cup quality and on the tasting
experience.

The increasing awareness of the

With Paulo Grifo consumers about the role of the
barista, that not only offers you
the perfect espresso carefully
brewed to reveal and cherish

F or many decades, in Western European and North American

dining situations, the offer of coffee or espresso at the end of the
meal was done with little motivation or thought other than a natural
the identity of each coffee but
also signature beverages that
allow tasting and discovering
FEATURE ARTICLE

closing to a meal. A lot has changed as coffee culture has exploded

new flavour combinations are
in last quarter century, with consumers seeking out the origins of
intangible benefits which promote
their beans, the specificity of the roasting process, and embracing
connoisseurship.
a myriad of coffee drinks personalized to their own specific tastes.
We asked Paulo Grifo, Barista Trainer at the Coffee Science Center
From here it is natural that
Barista Academy by Delta Cafés in Portugal to discuss the evolution
consumers start looking after new
of coffee service.
ways of combining coffee not only
in beverage format, but as a pairing
to food. A certain roasting profile
can result in aroma notes that are
complementary pairings with food.
The possibilities are endless and
truly inspiring.

ASI: Do you find restaurants are

Good to the Last Drop: maximising the coffee experience

‘upping’ their coffee service game?

PG: Yes. There is an increasingly
larger number of chefs interacting
with baristas to find the best
pairing between their gastronomic
offer and the coffee which is an
important part of the overall
tasting experience. At Delta Cafés
we believe that there are two
important aspects related to what
you refer as upping the coffee
service: firstly, the opportunity for
demonstrating social distinction
through connoisseurship and
taste, enhancing the importance
of referencing the origin of the

36
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

Paulo Grifo

coffee you are presenting and,

secondly, the endless possibilities of
and seasonality, from coffee plant
species and varietal, and how the
“This is
synergies between food proposition plant is responding to the local important work
and coffee which can inclusively climate conditions through its
allow to work on coffee flavour ecophysiology during the green that scientists
design through different roasting
profiles to a achieve a specific
coffee bean development, and
also from the local agricultural
have been

FEATURE ARTICLE
coffee character. Moreover, the practices (shade trees, irrigation, developing
different possible rituals of brewing, fertilisation, soil characteristics
the surrounding environment in and local geology). Agriculture, combining
the café or in the restaurant, the
moment of the day in which you
the origins of which can be traced
to the early Holocene, has been
several domains
have the tasting experience, allow fundamental in shaping the of expertise
to create new experiences for development of human society.
which there is a consumers’ Given its importance, the accurate to better
willingness to pay a premium
price for their coffees.
estimate of crop yields in the past
can shed light on several questions,
understand
also concerning coffee production, what improves
In Portugal, our coffee culture is the aspects of the relationship
mostly based on blends, not on between coffee production and the the coffee
single origin coffees. In our coffee natural resources usage, enabling
quality.”
Good to the Last Drop: maximising the coffee experience
we seek balance. However, in some to infer cultivation strategies of a
top restaurants, knowing a coffee’s particular period and to evaluate
origins and how it’s cultivated, the environmental effects of the
as well as knowing if is farmed land use. This is important work
sustainability or not, are becoming that scientists have been developing
increasingly important. combining several domains of
expertise to better understand
ASI: Is there a terroir of coffee? what improves the coffee quality.
PG: Yes, there is. When we refer The diversity in the combination
to the terroir we are talking about of these edaphoclimatic factors
how the quality of a cup coffee along the coffee production zone,
is driven based on the chemistry approximately 25 South Latitude
of the green coffee bean that to 25 North Latitude suggests right
results from environmental away the importance of the terroir
factors such as altitude, radiation, to coffee quality.
temperature, water availability,

37
 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

“The process requires constant training

and experimenting to tell the beautiful
story of the value chain of each coffee.”

Nonetheless, we should not forget We (Delta Cafés) have our own barista is guiding the consumer
the impact of the post-harvest in-house methodology, at our in the tasting experience of the
processing of the coffee, and that factory at Campo Maior, Portugal, coffee and can share the complexity
the green coffee bean works as a for sensory analysis of the coffee of the terroir, the diversity of
reactor under a specific roasting encompassing both chemical and geographical origins, and the
profile, so everything that composes sensory analysis, conducted by our impact of the roasting process.
it from the chemical point of scientists, coffee tasters and our The process requires constant
view determines the result of the roaster, to create a sensory claim to training and experimenting to tell
roasting process, and ultimately the communicate with the consumers. the beautiful story of the value
tasting experience. On the other hand, our baristas, chain of each coffee.
at Barista Academy, who are the
ASI: How should coffee be stored to ones serving the coffee to the
ensure maximum freshness? consumers, offer knowledge
PG: While closed in the package, and sensory guidelines, and
coffee must be stored in a dark encourage the consumer and
place, away from sources of heat our clients to try new tasting
and water, we must pay attention experiences. When doing this, the
FEATURE ARTICLE

and use the FIFO rule (First In, First

Out) so that we do not let the coffee
age, from the moment of opening
the packaging, coffee should be
consumed as soon as possible. The
remainder should be kept in a dry
place, without oxygen, preferably
in a vacuum or in a container that
allows air to be removed so as not
to cause oxidation.

ASI: What are some of things a

sommelier, beverage manager can
do, in terms of staff training, to
Good to the Last Drop: maximising the coffee experience

ensure the coffee they serve is the

best it can be?
PG: I recommend working
collaboratively with coffee experts
and having your team talk with
customers.

38
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

Reading the Tea Leaves:

FEATURE ARTICLE
what’s the future of after-
dinner service?
With Jeff Ho

T he no and low alcohol movement isn’t only occurring before and during
a meal. The rise of single source tea and elevated coffee service is
ASI: Do you think it is fair to say
that there has been a revolution in
bringing a renewed appreciation for post dinner non-alcoholic beverages. tea service over the last decade? Reading the Tea Leaves: what’s the future of after-dinner service?
The world’s best fine dining establishments are recognising thoughtful Jeff Ho (JH): I have noticed a shift
commitments to their tea and coffee programmes is enhancing their guests towards using specialty tea for non-
overall experience. Leading the way are sommeliers who are growing alcoholic beverages especially in
increasingly familiar with guiding diners through the complete beverage restaurants that celebrate artisanal
selection process, including recommending the perfect tea or coffee to excellence because these specialty
complement their meal, dessert or simply their personal preferences. teas are often only produced in
limited quantities. However, this is a
Discovering the nuance of tea and coffee is not unfamiliar territory for gentle shift rather than a revolution.
sommeliers as the concept of terroir in wine can be translated to single That being said, demand is picking
source teas and coffees. Increasingly sommeliers are offering products that up because there is a trend of
allow diners to explore the intricacies of different growing regions. Whether shifting to low ABV or no ABV
is it the lush tea gardens of Darjeeling to the high-altitude coffee plantations beverages in food services globally.
of Ethiopia, these beverages encapsulate the essence of their origin. In Asia, we have teenagers growing
up drinking bubble tea which uses
Jeff Ho is one of Singapore’s leading mixologists, but his love of beverages is various types of tea from Taiwan so
widespread. In addition to his knowledge of wine, spirits, and mixology, he we have a generation of consumers
is a Certified Cicerone, a Sake Sommelier, a Certified Tea Master, a Certified already quite familiar with tea.
Tea Blender, and holds a Coffee Skills Diploma.

39
 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

ASI: When preparing tea for of teapot such as glass, porcelain,

service what are some of the things or Zisha (Yixing) clay teapot. The
you should do to ensure proper heat retention properties of each
preparation and service of tea? material matter significantly to the
JH: One of the most important resultant tea.
things that we can prepare in
advance is water. Use good As far as food and tea pairing,
quality soft filtered water, neither generally I would group white tea
mineral nor distilled water. Best buds, yellow tea and green tea
to leverage on technology and use together because they tend to
a temperature-controlled kettle be delicate and lighter in flavour
to bring water up to the correct intensity. Hence, they work well
temperature and hold it there with food that are light and clean
rather than boiling at 100 Celsius in flavours. The rest of the white
(°C) and cooled to 80°C because tea and lightly oxidised oolongs
Jeff Ho you would have lost some precious have flavours that are medium
dissolved oxygen in the water by in intensity. Heavily oxidised and
boiling it all the way to 100°C. By roasted oolongs, black tea and dark
extension, always preheat your tea are the Cabernet Sauvignon
teapot and drink ware to the correct and Shiraz of teas so should pair
temperature before using them so well with dishes that are robust
ASI: Have the days of a waiter
that the tea is always served at the in flavours. Desserts traditionally
bringing out a wooden box of tea
right temperature. goes with black tea, milk and sugar.
bags gone by the wayside? What
However, you can explore pairing
styles of tea styles are driving
ASI: What are the main categories desserts with heavily oxidised and
demand?
of tea, and how should each style roasted oolongs like Feng Huan
JH: Tea bags in a wooden box
FEATURE ARTICLE

be served? Dang Cong from Guang Dong, China

service is not going away anytime
JH: There are 6 main types of tea in or Dong Ding oolong from Taiwan.
soon for most food service
the world, namely green tea, white
establishments because apart from
tea, yellow tea, oolong tea, black ASI: Is there a terroir of tea?
China, Japan and Korea, people in
tea and dark tea. Each style should JH: Similar to grapes, different
most countries grow up drinking
be served differently. First of all, varietals of tea grow best in
tea with milk and sugar for many
serving teas in their authentic vessel different climates and soil, for
generations. Nevertheless, there is
provides an aesthetically pleasing example some varietals prefer
a growing demand for white tea in
way of enjoying them. In addition, large day and night temperature
Europe, with many restaurants
the shape and material of teacups differences. The distinct taste of
and tea bars serving them. This is
do affect our perception of the tea Da Hong Pao from Wuyi mountain
not surprising given white tea is
much like the different glassware in Fujian, China represents the
quite easy to pair with most food
Reading the Tea Leaves: what’s the future of after-dinner service?

used for wines. An equally “cliff flavour” of the growing region

and equally delicious to drink on
important decision is the material which consists mainly of rocks, so
its own.

ASI: Do you find restaurants are

‘upping’ their tea service game?
JH: Some restaurants in Europe
are offering tea sommelier service
and when the cocktail bar Atlas (#5, “One of the most important
Asia’s 50 Best Bars) opened in 2017,
it had a specially curated tea menu.
things that we can prepare in
I have also come across some advance is water. Use good
higher end establishments offering
non-alcoholic programs to let their quality soft filtered water, neither
teetotaller patrons enjoy a well put
together food and beverage pairing
mineral nor distilled water.”
experience in addition to wine or
sake pairing.

40
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

their roots do not penetrate deeply

into the soil. The resultant mineral
taste, together with being heavily
roasted, culminate in an iconic taste
that is highly prized. Lightly oxidised
high-altitude oolongs from Ali Shan
in Taiwan represent the best of
fresh, elegant tea with beautiful
aroma of white flowers. Heavily
oxidised and roasted Red oolong
(aka brandy oolong) from Luye,
low altitude East Coast of Taiwan
provides delicious sweet and robust
fruit forward flavours that are not
well know outside of Taiwan. Shade
grown tea, Gyokuro from Uji Japan,
is traditionally served to emperors
and is prized for its rich umami and
sweet flavours. The above are some
of my favourite teas.

FEATURE ARTICLE
ASI: Should herbal teas be
identified along with ‘true tea’
(from Camellia Sinensis plant) on a
beverage list?
JH: Herbal infusions, also known
as tisanes, should be identified
as a separate beverage because
they are caffeine free. They can
also be organised by their various
properties such as calming
(chamomile), energising (ginger)

Reading the Tea Leaves: what’s the future of after-dinner service?

and detoxifying (lemongrass).

ASI: How should tea be stored to

ensure maximum freshness?
JH: It is best to store tea away
from heat and sunlight, moisture
and other ingredients with strong
odours such as spices. I would also
suggest vacuum sealing delicate
teas such as Chinese and Japanese
green teas and the most delicate
white tea buds such as Bai Hao Yin
Zhen and place them in a chiller to
extend their freshness beyond first
year of harvest.

41
© AWMB 1000things, Katharina Tesch © AWMB Robert Herbst

AUSTRIA:
THE INCOMPARABLE
LIGHTNESS OF WINE

The modern trend for fresher and lighter wines is an open goal
for Austria’s vintners: the production of white wines with these
characteristics is precisely where they excel. And as for red wines,
richness, power and concentration are also taking a back seat to let
elegance, balance and drinkability come to the fore.

Located in the heart of Europe, the wine-growing country of Austria is

situated exactly at the crossroads between warmer and colder climates.
The requisite conditions for making wines with a perfect balance
between ripeness and freshness are consequently good. Nowadays, a
long vegetation period with warm autumn days ensures that grapes reach
a high degree of ripeness just about every year. As a result, winegrowers
can pay even more attention to the most important characteristic of
Austrian wines: their distinctive freshness. This freshness relies on both
© AWMB Blickwerk Photography

the cooler nights that are brought about by the climate and a perfectly
timed harvest, which ensures that the grapes retain their valuable
acidity. Choosing the right time to harvest more than pays off as a trend
towards lighter, highly quaffable wines is becoming noticeable around
the world. As a result, ever more winegrowers are taking advantage of
the favourable conditions in Austria to produce wines that combine an
intense flavour, depth and complexity with the unmistakeable light-
footedness of Austrian wines.

austrianwine.com
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

Make Me
a Match
The Globalisation of Sake
With Hitoshi Utsunomiya, Japan Sake and
Shochu Makers Association (JSS)

Over the last decade, sake has begun to break out of its
traditional role. According to Hitoshi Utsunomiya of Japan
Sake and Shochu Makers Association (JSS), the rise of sake,
which has witnessed more than 10 years of sustained growth,
is attributable to a rising number of Japanese restaurants

MAKE ME A MATCH!
outside of Japan. Yet, while this rise in volume, particularly
in key markets like the US and China, is attributable to the
expansion of Japanese cuisine, thanks to the Japan Sake and
Shochu Makers Association and their focus on education, sake
is starting to transcend the traditional and enter a modern
new world of cuisine.

This has been a key piece of the JSS strategy. According to Utsunomiya “we
intended to introduce sake to the world, paired not only with Japanese
cuisine but more diverse styles of food.” Utsunomiya also sees the value
of sake as a pairing increasing. “I think the cuisine worldwide is gradually
changing, focusing more on ingredients itself. Focusing less on complicated
processes and more on the simplicity of ingredients. Consumers are also
more interested in eating seafood, for the health benefits. All these factors
give sake a great opportunity to be incorporated onto a drink’s menu, for the
pairing aspects.”

As for where and how sake should be introduced into a beverage

programme, Utsunomiya sees sake as being a by the glass “on a wine list,
next to the Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc there would be an option of for
sake by the glass.” Not surprisingly Utsunomiya doesn’t see sake limited to
a single by the glass option on a wine list. “Within sake we have different
styles. If we are successful in educating sommeliers, they will be able to talk
The Globalisation of Sake

to consumers about various types of sake they offer and the food to pair
with them.”

What was Utsunomiya favourite pairing? He says, “it was a course at the
2023 ASI Best Sommelier of the World Contest in France, featuring scallops
paired with Junmai Ginjo.”

43
 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

Bringing Sake to the Table

Atsuhide Hoshiyama is a specialist of both wine and sake based in
Hyogo, Japan. On the wine side he holds an ASI Diploma, Japan Sommelier
Association Sommelier Excellence, a Diploma in Wine & Spirits from WSE,
and is a Masters of Wine student. His sake accreditations are of similar
Atsuhide Hoshiyama
stature, as he possesses a WSET Level 3 Award in Sake, J.S.A. Sake Diploma
and works as a sake critic for Robert Parker Wine Advocate.

“The umami ASI: What advantages, if any, does sake present in terms of structure and
flavour as it relates to food and drink pairing?
of sake is a Atsuhide Hoshiyama (AH): Sake has a wide range of structure and flavours,

bridge to food so it depends on categories and producer’s philosophy. Each style of sake
has different advantages.
ingredients.
MAKE ME A MATCH!

ASI: What makes sake different from wine in terms of structure?

Sake, rich in AH: Most sakes have a sweetness (even dry styles) that allows them to be

umami, creates paired with a wider range of foods than wine.

a synergistic Sake with a higher degree of rice polishing ratio has more umami. Sake
rich in umami enhances the taste of fish roe, bluefish, and other strong
effect with ingredients that are difficult to pair with wine, without bringing out negative

foodstuffs rich elements. In addition, some sake has a bitterness derived from umami, and
this bitterness can add complexity to food pairings.
in amino acids.”
Unfiltered sake has a mellow texture due to the sake lees contained in
the liquid. This mellow texture not only works well with foods with a lot of
umami, but also softens the stimulation of spicy foods. Therefore, it can be
paired with dishes that use hot spices.

Sake can change its structure by changing temperatures: at temperatures

below 12°C, the structure becomes lean; at around 40°C, the sweetness and
umami are more pronounced and the texture is mellower; at temperatures
above 50°C, the acidity becomes more pronounced and the sake becomes
drier, giving it a tighter structure. Therefore, one sake can be paired with
multiple dishes by changing the temperature.

ASI: What makes sake different from wine in terms of flavour profile?
AH: The Ginjo and Daiginjo styles have gorgeous banana and apple flavours
that bring out ethyl caproate and isoamyl acetate. This style of sake can be
The Globalisation of Sake

paired not only with fruit and raw vegetable dishes, but also with delicately
sweet Japanese sweets.

Many Junmai styles, such as sake made from the Kimoto and Yamahai
methods, have almost no fruit flavours and are dominated by spice and
grain flavours. These styles can enhance the flavours of strong ingredients
such as game and shellfish without interfering with their flavour profile.

44
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

Aged sake has a soy sauce-like spice

and dried fruit flavours because the
Maillard reaction progresses more
rapidly than in wine. In addition,
complex flavours like mushrooms
and nuts develop. For this reason,
it pairs well not only with soy sauce,
but also with spiced sauces and
well-seasoned dishes. This style of
sake also often has a high sugar
content, making it a good match for
grain-baked desserts such as tarts
and moon cakes.

ASI: Sake has been traditionally

associated with classic Japanese
cuisine on the dinner table. Do you
think sake can be, and how, paired
with non-Japanese, even Western
cuisine?
AH: Most Western cuisine does not
use sugar in its cooking, but this
does not mean that the sweetness
of sake does not play a role:
Western cuisine appetisers include

MAKE ME A MATCH!
fruit and fruit sauces, and the sugar
in sake blends well with the sugar
at lower temperatures reduce the should be put into a category, that
in the fruit. The sugar content of
volatility of flavours in the food by is easy to understand by customers.
sake can also enrich the taste of
lowering the temperature in the This does not necessarily have to
food. The sugar content of sake
mouth and also harden the texture be a traditional categorisation.
also contributes to the richness of
of the food. Not only does sake In some cases, a categorisation
texture, making fatty dishes richer
pair well with seafood, but it can that is easier to understand
in taste. The sweetness of sake also
be served at a higher temperature for customers unfamiliar with
adds dimension and complexity to
than red wine, so it does not sake, such as "fruity," "savoury,"
the taste of sauces.
interfere with the textures and "rich," or "delicate," may be more
volatile flavours of the dish. This appropriate.
The umami of sake is a bridge
makes it possible to enjoy a variety
to food ingredients. Sake, rich in
of warm Western cuisine.
umami, creates a synergistic effect
with foodstuffs rich in amino acids.
ASI: Should sake be presented on
The synergistic effect of umami on
drinks list intermingled with wine or
stock-based sauces is of course
do you think it should remain as its
obvious, but when combined with
own section?
the lactic acidity of sake, ingredients
AH: Depends on the drink list. If
such as cheese achieve a high level
the restaurant has just one drink
of harmony.
list which includes all categories of
beverages, sake of course should
Sake can be enjoyed at a higher
be intermingled in the list. However,
temperature range, thus better
if the restaurant has independent
blending in the mouth with
wine list, sake should remain as
The Globalisation of Sake

warmer dishes. Red wines are

its own section. As I mentioned
served at a higher temperature
above, sake has a wide range of
range than white wines, but with
styles and categories. Most wine
some exceptions, such as Italian
lists have several category headers
Cacciucco (seafood stew), they are
like Sparkling, White, Rosé, Red,
difficult to harmonise with seafood
Sweet, Country, Region, even
dishes. White and rosé wines served
Natural wine, etcetera. Each sake

45
 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

Five Classic Sake and

Japanese Food Pairings
Ginjo
Service Temperature: 6 to 8°C
Pairing: Squid Sashimi with salt and Sudachi
citrus juice.

Junmai Daiginjo
Service Temperature: 8°C to 12°C
Pairing: Nerikiri, a traditional Japanese sweet made
by mixing sweetened white bean paste with refined
rice flour

Honjozo
Service Temperature: 50°C to 60°C
Pairing: Grilled Mackerel with salt

Junmai (Kimoto method)

Service Temperature: 35°C to 45°C
Pairing: Japanese eel Kabayaki-style with
Japanese pepper
MAKE ME A MATCH!

Aged Sake
Service Temperature: 20°C to 40°C
Pairing: Sukiyaki. Using this aged sake in the sukiyaki
sauce will enhance the affinity of the pairing.

ASI: Can you take the same five classic sake styles
and recommend dishes from other parts of the world
to pair with them?

Five Sake and Global

Cuisine Pairings
Junmai Daiginjo
Service Temperature: 6°C to 8°C
Pairing: Vietnamese summer roll

Junmai Ginjo
Service Temperature: 8°C to 12°C
Pairing: Burrata cheese and fruit salad

Honjozo
Service Temperature: 4°C to 6°C
Pairing: Caviar
The Globalisation of Sake

Junmai (Kimoto method)

Service Temperature: Around 20°C
Pairing: Saumagen with Sauerkraut

Aged Sake
Service Temperature: 35°C to 45°C
Pairing: China Zong (bamboo wrapped Chinese rice)
46
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

Back to School:
sommelier
scholarships
By Xeniya Volosnikova

ASI EDUCATION
T he availability of scholarships
for sommeliers is undeniably
on the rise. Numerous institutions
(listed in no particular order)
offered by different institutions,
many of them are targeting less
educational and internship
opportunities which would
otherwise be out of their reach.
and organisations worldwide privileged groups or geographies, In many cases, our scholarships
are now providing training and which hopefully will give the boost will include both educational and
opportunities to individuals with to sommellerie outside Europe and professional components, allowing
diverse backgrounds and skill levels the US. scholars to learn new skills and then
who have a passion for becoming put them into real world practice.”
sommeliers or further enhancing
their expertise in the field. 1. The Gérard Basset 2. Women of the Vine &
Foundation Spirits Foundation
As Romané Basset, Co-Founding
Trustee of The Gérard Basset gerardbassetfoundation.org wotvsfoundation.org
Foundation, shares “this makes
becoming a sommelier more The Gérard Basset Foundation was The foundation provides
accessible and affordable, and set up to support and promote scholarships for the purpose of
therefore makes it more attractive Diversity and Inclusion within helping women advance their
as a career path, which in turn the Wine, Spirits and Hospitality careers in the food, wine, spirits,
Back to School: sommelier scholarships

will attract more people to the industries, and according to Basset beer, and hospitality industries
trade - and thus requiring more “we achieve this by providing through education, leadership, and
scholarships to help them enter scholarships, bursaries and grants professional development.
what can be a very daunting to individuals and institutions, to
and intense profession.” In support a wider range of people Valeria Tenison, WOTVS Scholarship
developed markets like Europe entering the wine, spirits, and recipient, France says “I had
and the USA, there are significantly hospitality industries: developing selected the Continuous Education
more opportunities for aspiring their knowledge, their experience, Scholarship which I planned to
sommeliers compared to other their confidence and ultimately their spend for the Somm360 event in
parts of the world. Below are careers. Scholarships are created Montreal which was unfortunately
several examples of scholarships to offer students exceptional cancelled. Nevertheless, I spent

47
 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

the money for several trips and for BIPOC (black, indigenous, people in their workplaces, communities,
courses, including a study trip with of colour) or low-income candidates and the world. Participants return
Vinitaly International Academy and seeking to enter the profession. with concrete tools and skills
a Madeira Wine Educator Course. The organisation is apolitical but to make immediate impact and
The money obviously helped to recognises this as a global social build capacity toward long-term
pay the expenses but in general issue, supporting positive change. solutions. MAD Academy was
it definitely helped to deepen my The CMS Europe scholarships founded in 2019 by René Redzepi,
knowledge to the extent that I was are open for 'Introductory and chef and co-owner of restaurant
accepted to the Master of Wine Certified' or 'Advanced' levels. Noma, and Melina Shannon-
programme last year.” Four are available in Europe and DiPietro, MAD Executive Director,
two each in China, India, South in collaboration with a group of
3. Somm Foundation Africa, or Australasia. Successful visionary individuals.
scholarship recipients receive
sommfoundation.com course and examination coverage, 8. WINTOUR International
along with mentorship from an MS Master on Wine Tourism
SommFoundation (The Guild professional for career guidance.
Innovation
of Sommeliers Education
Foundation) is a California non- 6. Cordon Bleu Academy wintour-master.eu
profit corporation, committed to
cordonbleu.edu
assisting beverage professionals The International Master on Wine
to achieve their full potential. Tourism Innovation (WINTOUR)
SommFoundation commitment For over a century, Le Cordon offers a truly integrated study
for greater diversity, equity, and Bleu has helped shape the careers programme that takes advantage
inclusion is built on four pillars: of some of the best chefs and of the know-how in Tourism and
Representation, Access, Belonging food enthusiasts around the Oenology of three universities
and Transformation. world, developing the London and regions of Europe: Universitat
wine school in 2014. Regularly Rovira i Virgili (Tarragona, Spain),
ASI EDUCATION

4. Wine Scholar Guild offering scholarship competitions Université de Bordeaux (France) and
each year, 2022 marks the first Universidade do Porto (Portugal).
winescholarguild.org year offering a wine specific These universities are in highly
scholarship competition which attractive touristic areas, recognised
International provider of wine follows the success of the Julia Child with the label of UNESCO Human
certification programmes, Scholarship. The Wine Scholarship Heritage, and have a long tradition
specialising in the wines of by Le Cordon Bleu provides a on wine, producing specialty wines
France, Italy and Spain, as well once in a lifetime opportunity for such as sparkling, fortified, aged
as immersion study trips. Study someone who has a passion for red, and sweet.
options include distance-learning wine and aspires for a career in the
and classroom-learning. wine industry.
9. The Roots Fund

5. Court of Master 7. MAD Academy therootsfund.org

Sommeliers madacademy.dk
Created to empower
courtofmastersommeliers.org
underrepresented BIPOC in
MAD Academy equips the global the wine industry by providing
As sommeliers, the principles of hospitality industry with the resources and financial support,
knowledge, tools, and network to
Back to School: sommelier scholarships

the ‘Court’ center on hospitality, through educational scholarships,

exemplified by the late President advance sustainable action and wine education, mentorship,
Gerard Basset MS, MW, OBE. The responsible business practices. and job placement. The Roots
‘Court’ strives to elevate global Their goal is to radically shift the Fund is committed to investing in
beverage service and knowledge, way hospitality businesses take Black, Indigenous, and Latino/a
offering courses in various care of people and the planet. wine communities to provide
countries. To foster diversity in the Through five-day intensive courses opportunities to those seeking a
sommelier community, they now in Copenhagen, Denmark, they seek career or education in all aspects
offer 12 annual global scholarships to train and empower professionals of wine.
in the industry to make a difference

48
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

10. The Association of Nothing comes without some

“This makes
African American sweat! Valeria shares her feeling

Vintners
about the scholarship application becoming a
process. “It takes time to fill in
aaavintners.org the application forms that can be sommelier more
lengthy and sometimes go through
a further selection process with
accessible and
“Many of our vintner members are
balancing full-time jobs while self-
several interviews. And of course, affordable,
you should be ready to receive
funding their wine businesses. It is
imperative that, as AAAV grows, we
a negative result. I think these and therefore
help members to accelerate their
points might discourage people
from applying, especially those
makes it more
business growth and impact on the
wine industry,” according to AAAV
sommeliers who are full time on attractive as
the floor and don’t have much time.
Executive Director Angela McCrae.
Funding for the grant programme
I see receiving a scholarship as a career path,
is acquired solely through a
winning in a lottery. If it happened
- great, if not - I will try again later
which in turn
fundraising campaign implemented
by the Association of African
when the opportunity arises.” will attract more
American Vintners for the purpose
of positively impacting AAAV
If the selection process doesn’t people to the
member businesses' operations,
scare you, here’s a tip from Romané
to potential applicants, “my
trade.”
marketing or innovation efforts and
advice to sommeliers or aspiring – Romané Basset, Co-Founding
help grow their wine business.
sommeliers seeking to receive Trustee of The Gérard Basset
funding to help them further their Foundation
career, is to be both bold and
humble at the same time. Bold,

ASI EDUCATION
in that they should not be afraid
of seeking out opportunities and
introducing themselves to people
who are in a position to help them,
as taking the initiative is always
very impressive. Humble, in that
they should always be willing to
learn more and be open to new
ideas from mentors and their fellow
sommeliers. Confidence without
becoming arrogant - that is the key!”

Who knows, maybe you, like Sharrol

Mukendi-Klaas, recipient of the Please note that the list is not full,
Gerard Basset Foundation and and there are numerous other
ASI Sommelier scholarship, will opportunities in different countries
serve as an example of education and regions. The deadlines to apply
excellence and motivation to future may vary for different scholarships
sommeliers. Of her wine journey even within the same institution,
Back to School: sommelier scholarships

Sharrol says, “my experience so so we urge you to study the links

far has been a dream. I am living a provided. We created this list only
dream. It has also been really hard mentioning a few opportunities
because it takes a lot of dedication available as an inspiration to start
and hard work to become a on or continue your journey in the
sommelier. But I would never trade world of wine, make good use of it
this for anything!” and share with colleagues.

49
 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

Member News

ASI General Assembly Convenes

in Helsinki: making a house a
home
The Association de la Sommellerie Internationale (ASI) recently convened
in Helsinki, Finland, for an important gathering hosted by the Finnish
Sommelier Association. The agenda included electing a new board and
devising strategic plans to further advance the profession. Attendees
were also treated to a post-assembly Wine Fair focused on biodynamic
agriculture, organised by Finnish Master of Wine, Heidi Mäkinen.

Nina Basset, outgoing Secretary General, moderated the General Assembly.

Her professionalism, warmth, and collaborative spirit were celebrated by ASI
President William Wouters. While Basset’s role was interim, her contribution
to the association is expected to have long-lasting effects.
MEMBER NEWS

Unchallenged for the role of President, Wouters was appointed for a second
term. He emphasised that the first term was about laying the foundations
for enduring success, and the next phase will focus on ‘decorations’ – the
refinement of the association’s work and making it welcoming to all.

The newly elected board remains similar to the previous one. Philippe
Fraure-Bac (France) and Samuil Angelov will manage the association’s
finances as Treasurer and Assistant Treasurer respectively. Vice Presidents
Piotr Kamecki (Poland), Saiko Tamura-Soga (Japan), and Michèle Chantôme
(Morocco) continue their roles, representing Europe, Asia & Oceania, and
Africa and the Middle East. Beata Vlnkova (Slovakia) takes over as Secretary
General, and Ivo Dvorak (Czech Republic) as Deputy Secretary General, while
Matias Prezioso was voted in as Vice-President Americas, joining the board
for the first time.

Wouters extended a warm welcome to the US and Zimbabwe as ASI

member associations and lauded Moldova and Lebanon for starting their
path to membership. He highlighted the efforts to lay a strong foundation,
establish cornerstones of success, and build sturdy pillars. His future
plans include expanding educational offerings like ASI Certifications, ASI
Diploma, and ASI Bootcamp, and refining processes to ensure governance
transparency and financial stability.

50
 AUGUST 2023 ASI MAGAZINE

Strauss & Co. Show Support of

South African Sommeliers
In a landmark move after the successful inaugural sale of South African Wine NFTs in 2022, Strauss & Co Fine Wine
Auctions announced the release of six significant collections of the world’s finest wines, minted and authenticated as
NFTs. The goal? To contribute to the growth and development of sommelier education in South Africa. A portion of
the auction’s proceeds will be donated to the South African Sommeliers Association (SASA).

SASA, founded in 2011, has been leading the charge in providing wine service education in South Africa. As
international benchmarks for fine wines climb beyond reach, this donation aims to level the playing field for aspiring
African sommeliers. South Africa has made significant strides in creating opportunities in the wine industry, yet much
still needs to be done. With this partnership, SASA and Strauss & Co are paving the way for accessible and quality
wine education in the country.

Click here to watch

Second Quarter Somm MEMBER NEWS

Champions
This spring, the world witnessed the rise of five extraordinary talents in the
realm of sommeliers. Alejandro Rodríguez Sánchez-Pardo clinched the title
of Spain’s Best Sommelier 2023, demonstrating his expert mastery of wine
and wine service. In Iceland, the accolade of the Best Icelandic Sommelier
2023 went to Manuel Schembri, whose exceptional understanding of
global wine and spirits impressed all. Finland’s Antero Niemiaho became
the Best Sommelier of Finland 2023. Lastly, Tomasz Żak, celebrated for his
knowledge of the world of wine and other beverages, was crowned the Best
Sommelier of Poland 2023. Their accomplishments serve as a testament to
their exceptional skill, palate, and deep understanding of the complex world
of hospitality, service, wine, spirits, and other beverages. Finally, Agnieszka
Swiecka, has been crowned UK Sommelier of the Year. Swiecka, who was
runner-up in 2022, was determined to take the title in 2023 and did so
Agnieszka Swiecka
showing impressive sommelier skills, as well displaying a quiet calm and
charm on stage.

51
 ASI MAGAZINE AUGUST 2023

Nicolas Clerc Awarded Gérard

Basset Caterer Award
Nicolas Clerc, President of the UK Sommelier Academy was awarded the
Gerard Basset Caterer Award for services to the Wine Industry at the
recently held UK Sommelier of the Year contest.
Nicholas Clerc

“Nicolas is a truly worthy recipient, having been instrumental

in re-invigorating the UK Sommelier Academy over the last
couple of years and inspiring so many UK-based sommeliers,
as well as delivering a record breaking eleven Gold ASI
Diploma winners during 2023. Impressive!”
– Nina Basset

The Association of
MEMBER NEWS

Sommeliers from Romania

Summer Kick-Off Event
The Association of Sommeliers from Romania (ASR), the only internationally
recognised national sommelier association in Romania, started the summer
celebrations early with their annual Clubul Privat de Vin – A.S.R (The
Private Wine Club – ASR) which was held on May 29th. The annual event is
a celebration of Romanian wine, and an opportunity for sommeliers and
winemakers to share their stories with and about wine.

Florin Voica
Click here to watch

52
 ASI
CERTIFICATION 2
EXAM

NOVEMBER 2023

Scan the QR code for

more information