How To Make Moccasins
How To Make Moccasins
beyond the Arctic Circle. Although styles varied from tribe to tribe and region to region, almost all
moccasins shared certain characteristics: the upper parts were made of tanned
leather, the leather was usually smoked to improve its resistance to water, and, except for moccasins
made by a few western tribes, the soles were soft.
The three-piece moccasin shown here is based on an Apache design. Use heavy-weight, oil-tanned
leather (oil tanning makes the leather moisture resistant) and cut the pattern pieces out of heavy paper
(a heavy-duty grocery bag will do). Make separate patterns for each foot—right and left foot sizes are
rarely the same—and baste the patterns together so that you can try them
for fit before cutting the leather. Note that pattern shapes shown are for the left foot; reverse them for
the right foot. Since the leather is heavy, holes must be punched before the seams are sewn, either with
an awl (as shown) or a very fine drive punch or rotary punch (standard tools sold at leathermaking
stores). Use the saddle stitch for all seams. Draw the thread tight after
each stitch so that it bites into the leather; this will produce a strong yet attractive seam that will stand
up under heavy wear. Note that the stitch holes punched around the soles are spaced slightly farther
apart than the corresponding holes around the vamps and back pieces. The difference in spacing
compensates for the longer perimeter of the sole piece and also produces a
gathering effect. The final step in making the moccasins is to add a thong. Cut the thong from the same
leather used for the moccasins, and thread it through slits in the back piece. Be sure to make the thong
long enough to tie a bow.
3. Pattern for back piece should be 4 in. high and long enough to
wrap around heel of foot and overlap vamp by about 1/2 in. on
each side. Check back piece using foot outline from Step 1.
4. Use awl to punch holes 1/4 in. from edge around the soles,
back pieces, and fronts (toes) of vamps. Holes are about 3/16 in.
apart on vamps and back pieces; matching holes in soles are
about 1/4 in. apart.
5. To join vamps to sole, begin by saddle stitching from center
of vamp. Stitch along one side, then along the other. To join
back to sole, start from center of heel. Sew one side, then the
other.
6. Easiest way to make the saddle stitch is with a needle at each end of thread. Even thread off at first
hole, insert needles through succeeding holes in opposing directions. Finish with knot hidden in seam.