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International Journal of Agriculture Extension and Social Development

Volume 7; Issue 7; July 2024; Page No. 398-399
Received: 02-04-2024 Indexed Journal
Accepted: 03-05-2024 Peer Reviewed Journal

Testing relationship of bending rigidity with drape coefficient for silk viscose
blended knitted fabrics
Shikha Bajaj
Assistant Professor, Guru Nanak Khalsa college for Women, Gujarkhan campus, Model Town, Ludhiana, Punjab, India
DOI: https://doi.org/10.33545/26180723.2024.v7.i7f.830
Corresponding Author: Shikha Bajaj

Abstract
Aesthetic behavior of any fabric is largely determined by its property to drape. It has an important bearing on how good a garment looks in
use. Knitted fabrics known for their high elastic properties often have high drape characteristics. In the present investigation, the influence of
bending rigidity of fabrics in prediction of drapability of weft knitted fabric, have been determined. Knitted fabrics blended in proportion of
50: 50 silk and viscose, have been developed in two yarn counts. And their bending rigidities and drape coefficients were obtained.
Statistical analysis has been done for the findings indicating that draping has linear correlation with bending rigidities.

Keywords: Bending, drape, fabric, knitted, rigidity

1. Introduction were obtained on 10 gauge. Physical parameters of blended

The trade of knitting has gone through brisk changes in knitted fabrics were analyzed.
relation to trends and customer interests. User requirements Drape is a unique physical property that allows a fabric to
have been modified a lot in the recent years in terms of be bent in more than one direction with double curvature [7].
character and nature of fabric. High fashion fabrics with Drapabilty being a significant measure for end use of a
high perfection are demanded. In this context, the property fabric, was also analyzed for its dependence and influence
of drape plays as significant role as deciding end use of the of other related parameters. Drape coefficient was measured
fabric. using drapemeter. A circular sample was cut with a diameter
The term ‘drape’ can be defined as the ability of a fabric to of 10 inches and was kept over a supporting metal disc of
assume graceful appearance in use. According to Glock and diameter 5 inches. During this, the unsupported sides of
Kunz1, drapability relates to how fabric falls when it hangs, fabric fell under the influence of gravity and draped over the
its ability to form graceful configurations. Although drape is edges of supporting disc. Drape coefficient was calculated
a subjective quality as it pertains to appearance, by using below formula:
attempts have been made to objectively define and measure
drape in fabric form [2]. Subjective evaluation of drape is
related to psychological factors like human perceptions,
whereas, objective evaluation of fabric drape involves
measurement of drapability in terms of drape coefficient.
Fabric drape is not an independent property [3]. It is Where,
influenced by many other properties of fabric, one of which AD = The area of specimen
is bending rigidity. As opined by Adanur [4], bending Ad = The area of supporting disc
rigidity is resistance of fabric to bending. It is the resistance As = The actual projected area of the specimen
which is observed when the fabric is bent back and forth The drape coefficient F, is the ratio between the projected
between the fingers. The higher the rigidity of structure, area of specimen and its undraped area, after deduction of
lesser it will bend under a given load [5]. Flexural rigidity is the area of the supporting disc.
one of factors perceived through the human body sensory Bending rigidity of knitted fabrics was computed by using
mechanisms [6]. In this paper, the impact of bending rigidity cantilever stiffness tester. A fabric strip of 6 inch x 1 inch
in prediction of drape ability of fabric has been determined. was mounted on a horizontal plateform in such a way that
overhangs like a cantilever and bends downward. The scale
2. Materials and methods of equipment was in cms of bending length which can also
Blended yarns in proportion of 50 % silk: 50% viscose, in be used for cutting specimen to exact size. The fabric was
two different yarn counts viz. 15 Nm and 20 Nm were moved a little to the right side and stopped when it bends
utilized for fabric construction. Knitting was carried out on and coincides with the slanting line in the mirror. The bent
sinker circular knitting machine and single jersey structures length was measured. Specimens were tested both

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coursewise and walewise. Mean values were calculated for Data thus obtained reveals that in case of fabric knitted by
further calculation of flexural rigidity. using 15 yarn, there is a strong positive relationship between
Bending length C = Lf1 (θ) drape coefficient and bending rigidity, in the direction of
Where f1 (θ) = 41 ½ ° wales. The value of R was 0.983. 1This means which means
Also, 41 ½ ° = ½ that high drapability values go with high bending rigidity
Therefore, C = L/2 figures and vice versa. In course wise direction, the value of
R had been calculated as 0.2605. Although technically a
L = Mean length of the overhanging portions positive correlation has been witnessed between two
variables, the relationship between drape coefficient and
bending rigidity was weak in this case.
As regards to fabrics knitted by using 20 Nm yarns, drape
and bending rigidity figures carry a powerful positive
relationship in the wales wise direction. Values of drape
Flexural rigidity lengthwise direction (G1) coefficient increase with rise in bending rigidity. Correlation
(G1) = W1 x C3 x 103 mg/cm coefficient calculated for this relationship was 0.9607. In
Flexural rigidity widthwise direction (G2) case of course wise direction, the value of R was found to be
(G2) = W2 x C3 x 103 mg/cm 0.9229. A strong positive relationship was observed in this
direction as well.
3. Results and Discussion
4. Conclusion
Table 1: Drape properties of knitted fabrics blended in proportion
of 50% silk: 50% viscose
Findings of the experiment clearly say that there is a
positive impact of bending rigidity over drape coefficient
Fabric blend Yarn count Drape coefficient and a rise in one variable leads to an increase in other
50% silk: 50% viscose 15 38.040 variable. When bending and shear hysteresis are large, drape
50% silk: 50% viscose 20 32.870 coefficient percentage will be large and unstable [9].

Drape coefficient for 15 Nm yarn was calculated as 38.040, 5. References

whereas, it was 32.870 for 20 Nm. According to Gnanavel 1. Glock RE, Kunz GI. Apparel Manufacturing: Sewn
and Ananthakrishnan [8], a low drape coefficient indicates Product Analysis. Dorling Kindersley, India; 2005, 288.
easy deformation of a fabric and a high drape coefficient 2. Pant S. Factors Affecting Draping Quality of Fabric and
indicates less deformation. This is because higher projected Its Measurement; c2018. Available from:
area means less drapability. http://www.fibre2fashion.com. Accessed 2018 Mar 31.
Findings of bending rigidity elucidate that fabric knitted 3. Hu J. Structure and Mechanics of Woven Fabrics. CRC
with 15 Nm yarn count has bending rigidity of 203.142 Press; c2004. p. 188.
mg/cm in the direction of wales. In course wise direction, 4. Adanur S. Wellington Sears Handbook of Industrial
bending rigidity was calculated as 152.393 mg/cm. In case Textiles. CRC Press; c1995. p. 645.
of fabrics blended in 20 Nm yarn count, bending rigidity 5. Lucas GL, Cooke FW, Friis E. A Primer of
values were 168.202 mg/cm and 96.699 mg/cm for wale Biomechanics. Springer Science & Business Media,
wise and course wise direction. New York; c1999. p. 64.
6. Filgueiras A, Fangueiro R, Soutinho F. Drape behavior
Table 2: Bending rigidity of knitted fabrics blended in proportion of functional knitted fabrics for sport clothing. Indian
of 50% silk: 50% viscose
Journal of Fibre and Textile Research. 2008;34:64-68.
Yarn Bending rigidity 7. Hu J, Chung S. Drape Behavior of Woven Fabrics with
Fabric blend Direction
count (mg/cm) Seams. Textile Research Journal. 1998;68:913-19.
50% silk: 50% viscose 15 Wales 203.142 8. Angappan P, Gopalakrishnan R. Textile Testing. SSM
50% silk: 50% viscose 15 Course 152.393 Institute of Textile Technology, Komarapalayam, Tamil
50% silk: 50% viscose 20 Wales 168.202 Nadu, India; c1997 .p. 317.
50% silk: 50% viscose 20 Course 96.699 9. Behera BK, Hari PK. Woven Textile Structure: Theory
and Applications. Woodhead Publishing Limited, UK;
Table 3: Correlation between drape coefficient and bending c2010. p. 353.
rigidity
Yarn Correlation
Fabric blend Direction
count coefficient (r)
50% silk: 50% viscose 15 Wales 0.9831
50% silk: 50% viscose 15 Course 0.2605
50% silk: 50% viscose 20 Wales 0.9607
50% silk: 50% viscose 20 Course 0.9229

Under the present investigation, correlation coefficient was

calculated for assessing the impact of bending rigidity over
drape coefficient. The attempt was carried out all the four
fabric blends. The findings have been furnished in table 3.

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