1999 Prestige-Seeking Vigneron-Johnson AMSREVIEW PDF
1999 Prestige-Seeking Vigneron-Johnson AMSREVIEW PDF
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Franck Vigneron
Australian Graduate School of Management
The University of Sydney
Currently located at California State University Northridge
and
Lester W. Johnson
Monash Mt. Eliza Business School
Melbourne Australia
• The authors thank the editor Morris B. Holbrook for his helpful
suggestions, as well as three anonymous AMSR reviewers for their useful
comments, on earlier versions of the manuscript.
• Correspondence concerning this article should be addressed to Professor
Lester W. Johnson, Monash Mt. Eliza Business School, Monash
University, PO Box 2224, Caulfield Jct., Victoria 3161, Australia.
Available @: http://www.amsreview.org
Keywords: prestige, luxury, brand, perception, conspicuousness, uniqueness,
extended-self, hedonic, self-concept, reference groups.
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
This paper discusses the existing consumer knowledge dealing with aspects of
prestige, and based on this literature, develops a conceptual framework useful
for the analysis of prestige-seeking consumer behavior (PSCB). The purpose of
this paper is to combine the concepts of existing research on prestige
consumers (rather limited) and studies which examined entirely different
aspects of consumer behavior, but coincidentally produce valuable information.
By examining all the sources of prestige consumption in a broad and integrated
way, we shall provide a new perspective that draws from, rather than substitutes
for, previous research.
The objectives of this literature review can be summarized as follows:
• Contribute to the emerging literature on prestige consumption in
examining and defining the key perceived values which form the concept
of prestige.
• Interpret and expand existing consumer behavior models in order to
develop a specific prestige-seeking consumer behavior framework.
• Generate a framework to help marketers build and monitor the prestige
of brands.
• Stimulate further research on prestige-seeking consumer behavior.
Defining Prestige
The distinction between prestige brands and non-prestige brands has been
operationally defined in this paper as the distinction between brands exhibiting
five perceived values, contingent on a particular socioeconomic framework.
1. The consumption of prestige brands is viewed as a signal of status and
wealth, and whose price, expensive by normal standards, enhances the value of
such a signal (perceived conspicuous value).
2. If virtually everyone owns a particular brand it is by definition not
prestigious (perceived unique value).
3. The role-playing aspects and the social value of prestige brands can be
instrumental in the decision to buy (perceived social value).
4. For a brand which satisfies an emotional desire such as a prestige brand, a
product's subjective intangible benefits such as aesthetic appeal is clearly
determining the brand selection (perceived hedonic value).
5. Prestige is derived partly from the technical superiority and the extreme care
that takes place during the production process. For instance, a Rolex Sea-
dweller works 1,220 meters underwater and is hand-crafted (perceived quality
value).
This interpretation recognizes that the definition of prestige may vary for
different people, depending on their socioeconomic background. Translated
into marketing terms, consumers develop prestige meanings for brands based
upon interactions with people (e.g., aspired and/or peer reference group), object
properties (e.g., best quality), and hedonic values (e.g., sensory beauty). Such
interactions occur at personal and societal levels. Thus, a brand's prestige is
created from a multitude of interactions between the consumer and elements
within the environment. Prestige-seeking behavior is the results of multiple
motivations, but in particular the motives of sociability and self-expression. In
sum we define five values of prestige combined with five relevant motivations,
as follows.
VALUES MOTIVATIONS
Conspicuous Veblenian
Unique Snob
Social Bandwagon
Emotional Hedonist
Quality Perfectionist
Conclusion
This review and analysis offers several potential contributions from previous
works, but particularly, extends the exploratory analysis carried out by Dubois
and Laurent (1994) on the attitudes towards the concept of luxury. We suggest
that marketers may use the theoretical framework developed to assess the level
of prestige from of their brands and then use the results to make certain
positioning decisions, such as enhancing low aspects of prestige or evaluating
the result of their latest advertising campaign aiming at improving prestige.
I - INTRODUCTION
As a result of the spectacular growth of luxury markets over the past ten years,
the marketing literature has recently seen substantial interest in the study of
prestige brands. Yet, little is known about how to best market and monitor
prestige brands. Research in the UK by the market research firm Applied
Futures anticipated important social changes as the year 2000 nears (Powderly
and MacNulty 1990). Their research identified that people's needs for
appearances and materialism were increasing. That is, they recognized an
increasing demand for conspicuous and status products. In Australia recent
market reports seem to support this prediction. The Sunday Telegraph reported
a phenomenal increase in Australia's imports of luxury goods, such as increases
in demand for mink furs (+1130.8% change from 1995/96), and diamonds
(+27.5% change from 1995/96). "Australians have embarked on a shopping
spree for imported luxury goods, with sales of diamonds, furs, caviar and
champagne jumping this year" (Rees 1997, 8). The United States' economic
recovery and the fast growing demand in Asia (before the slowdown that
started in 1997) have also contributed to boost the growth of the luxury market
in recent years (Echikson 1994).
Early research on this topic mainly started last century from work of John Rae
(1834), Thorstein Veblen (1899) and Keasbey (1903). Recently the marketing
literature has focused its study of luxury brands, specifically in terms of brand
extensions (Roux 1995), conflict management between mass-marketing and
luxury principles (Bechtold 1991; Roux 1994; Roux and Floch 1996), and
measures of attitudes toward the luxury concept (Dubois and Duquesne 1993b;
Dubois and Laurent 1994). Currently, the luxury market is taking a new
direction with unprecedented demand coming from Asian countries, and thus
research has focused on the cross-cultural comparison of attitudes toward the
luxury concept (Dubois and Laurent 1996; Dubois and Paternault 1997) and the
comparison of motivations between Asian and Western societies (Wong and
Ahuvia 1998). However, these studies have focused on only some aspects of
prestige-seeking consumer behavior. Although researchers agree that the study
of prestige goods is interesting and important, there is currently little agreement
about how best to define, and hence understand, the psychology of prestige-
related consumer behavior. "Status brand strategies are intuitively recognized
by marketing professionals and practitioners. However, there is little literature
on the topic reported in scientific journals" (Andrus, Silver, and Johnson 1986).
The reasons for the diverse definitions and measures of prestige are perhaps due
to the different applications of the term prestige.
As a general rule, prestige products have been used as an example of extreme-
end high-involvement decision making. The assumption is that prestige
products are infrequently purchased, require a higher level of interest and
knowledge, and strongly relate to the person self-concept. For instance,
Rossiter, Percy, and Donovan (1991) stated that the distinction between high
and low involvement was dichotomous rather than continuous, and presented a
second dimension operationalized as "informational-transformational". Their
framework reasonably assumes that prestige products are high-involvement
products, and that transformational brand choices (i.e., sensory gratification,
intellectual stimulation, and particularly social approval) are the primary factors
in selecting a prestige product. Although the involvement model is useful to
distinguish prestige products from normal products, it does not significantly
differentiate the level of prestige among prestige brands (Horiuchi 1984). In
this research three types of brands were categorized as prestigious; upmarket
brands, premium brands, and luxury brands, respectively in an increasing order
of prestige. Therefore, in this paper, we refer to prestige brands when
discussing the brand category whereas we used "luxury" when relating to the
extreme-end of the prestige-brand category (Figure 1). Hence, it was expected
that people would have different perceptions of the level of prestige for the
same brands, and that the overall prestige level of a brand would consider the
prestige perceptions from different people.
Rather than treating each perceived value of prestige separately, as it has been
characteristic of much of the writing in the field, we interpreted, combined, and
expanded a set of prestige values into a single framework using a wide range of
sources (Table1). For instance, we used the work from Leibenstein (1950)
which examined three consumer effects on demand. His work suggested that
the utility derived from a product may be enhanced by external effects such as
the quantity of goods consumed by other persons, or relating to the fact that the
product bears a higher rather than a lower price tag. The results from his study,
particularly emphasized the role of interpersonal effects on the consumption of
prestige brands, and derived three main effects. In addition, we extended the
prestige-seeking framework to include two personal effects (Figure 2).
II - INTERPERSONAL EFFECTS
A - The Veblen Effect: Perceived Conspicuous Value
In the early 1980s, several researchers conducted studies based on the original
work of Bourne (1957), which focused on the influence of reference groups on
the consumption of prestige brands (Mason 1981 and 1992; Bearden and Etzel
1982). These authors found that the conspicuousness of a product was
positively related to its susceptibility to reference-group influence. For instance,
Bearden and Etzel (1982) concluded that publicly consumed luxury products
were more likely to be conspicuous products than privately consumed luxury
products.
Conspicuous consumption still plays a significant part in shaping preferences
for many products which are purchased or consumed in public contexts (Braun
and Wicklund 1989; Hong and Zinkhan 1995; Bagwell and Bernheim 1996;
Corneo and Jeanne 1997). Thorstein Veblen (1899) many years ago suggested
that conspicuous consumption was used by people to signal wealth and, by
inference power and status. Thus, the utility of prestige products may be to
display wealth and power and one could consider that highly visible prestige
brands would dominate the conspicuous segment of the consumers.
Several authors have also demonstrated that the price of products may have a
positive role in determining the perception of quality (Erickson and Johansson
1995; Lichtenstein, Bloch, and Black 1988; Tellis and Gaeth 1990). These
studies revealed that consumers often used the price cue as evidence for
judging quality when choosing between different brands. In practice, a higher
price would infer a higher level of quality. In addition, research which
suggested that consumers who perceived price as a proxy for quality, also
perceived high prices as a positive indicator suggesting a certain degree of
prestige (Lichtenstein, Ridgway, and Netemeyer 1993). Thus, consumers would
use a price cue as a surrogate indicator of prestige. This argument is further
supported by the marketing literature which recommend the use of "prestige-
pricing strategy" when appealing to status-conscious consumers (Berkowitz,
Kerin, Hartley, and Rudelius 1992, 341; Groth and McDaniel 1993). Although
the construct of conspicuousness has dominated most of the past literature on
prestige, it is important to recognize that conspicuousness only partly explains
the perceived values of prestige products, since a vast majority of these
products are also consumed in private, for example when a person consumes
fine wine at home.
Proposition 1: Veblenian consumers attach a greater importance to price as an
indicator of prestige, because their primary objective is to impress others
(Figure 2).
Although we assume that the five prestige values are independent, we posit that
they relate additively and contribute incrementally to brand selection. While
consumers may choose to maximize all five prestige values, in practice it seems
reasonable to believe that consumers would trade off less salient values for
more salient ones. Therefore, we propose that the preference for each
alternative value may describe a separate prestige-seeking profile (i.e.,
Veblenian, snob, bandwagon, Hedonic, and perfectionist), but also agree that
certain consumers may belong to more than one category.
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