Golden Boy, crochet golden retriever pattern

by Sonja van der Wijk

Before you start

This pattern is written in standard American crochet terms. It's useful to read it before you start. If you
use the recommended yarn, your dog will be 5.1 inch /13 cm sitting. Because the size of the doll is
dependent on the yarn you use and how tight you crochet, it's useful to experiment with the eye size,
despite my recommendations. I would strongly recommend a fuzzy yarn for the dog. The yarn I've
used is Istex Lètt lopi, a 100% wool. The doll is worked in the round/ spirals. Use a stitch marker to
mark the beginning of a round. Move it up each time you start a new round. The purple strand you
see in some of the pictures I use to mark the 1st st. Here you can find useful info regarding my
patterns. The images in the pattern are not true size or the correct scale.

Materials
For this crochet dog you'll need worsted weight yarn (Lètt Lopi) and an E US/3.5 mm crochet hook.
You’ll need one main colour: straw (1418) and a tiny amount of sheep black (0052, or any kind of
dark worsted weight yarn) for the nose. You also need a little bit of any colour you like for the
harness, I’ve used fjord blue (1701), and a tiny bit of a darker colour to embroider the nails (1419).
For the eyes I've used 8 mm animal eyes. You will also need fibrefill and pellets for extra weight in the
body (I use Hama beads). A pipe-cleaner to make the tail bendable is optional.

Accessories
Hook E US / 3.5 mm, scissors, embroidery needle and stitch markers or paper clips and a hard (pet)
brush if you want to fluff up the dog (I haven’t brushed my dog).

Abbreviations: ch = chain, sc = single crochet, st = stitch, sl st = slip stitch, hdc = half double crochet
stitch, BLO = work in back (inside) loops only, s2tog = invisible decrease

Notes
Thank you for buying this Son's Popkes crochet pattern. When you are showing your dog to the
world online, please don't forget to tag me @sonspopkes or mention my name and website.

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Head
Straw and work around a chain. Start at the top of the chain and at the bottom continue around the
other side. If you are not sure where to start the first st in the bottom loops, count 3 loops back at the
bottom, starting at the loop opposite to the 1st at the top. Make your first bottom st in the 3rd loop.
Some stitches are worked in the back loops only (BLO). You later use the unworked front loops to
crochet in the lips and the eyebrows.

1. ch of 4. In 2nd ch from hook 2 sc, sc in next, 2 sc in last, turn. 2 sc in bottom loop of that last,
sc in next, 2 sc in next = 10
2. sc in next, sc in next in BLO, sc in next 6, sc in next in BLO, sc in next = 10
3. sc in next, sc in next in BLO, sc in next 2, 2 sc in next, sc in next 3, sc in next in BLO, 2 sc in
next = 12
4. sc in next, sc in next in BLO, sc in next, 2 sc in next, sc in next 3, 2 sc in next, sc in next, sc in
next BLO, sc in next, 2 sc in next = 15
5. sc in next, sc in next in BLO, sc in next 9, sc in next in BLO, sc in next 3 = 15
6. (sc in next 3, 3 sc in next) x 3, sc in next 3 = 21

Mark the stitches of round 7 in which you'll make the 9th and 16th
stitch with a coloured strand. (Insert the strand in the gap of the
stitch you normally put your hook in.) When the strand is placed,
just do a normal sc. You've now marked where you later attach the
eyes.

7. sc in next 4, 2 sc in next, sc in next 5, 2 sc in next, sc in

next 5, 2 sc in next, sc in next 4 = 24
8. sc in next 8, sc in next 2 in BLO, sc in next 4, sc in next 2 in
BLO, sc in next 8 = 24
9-11. sc in each around = 24
12. (sc in next 2, s2tog) x 6 = 18

Now crochet the lips to the unworked front loops and don’t make the stitches too tight. It’s very
important to follow these instructions precisely, because it affects how the lips curl. Stuff the muzzle
tightly. For the dog’s left lip attach the yarn to the 1st unworked loop (closest to the nose), as shown
in the image, and finish as a sc , sc in next 2 front loops, sl st in last. Leave the yarn ends for now. For
the right lip, attach the yarn to the last unworked front loop (closest to the back of the head) and
finish as sc, sc in next 2, sl st in last. Now fold the lips downwards, they should not curl up. To get the
right effect, you might want to mould the stuffing a bit so the cheeks and lips form a whole. Use the
images below to see how it should look. Now weave in both starting ends right below where you
attached them. The end you stopped with for the left lip is woven into the next st after the lip, in line
with the unworked front loops. The end at the front of the right lip is woven into the 1st st in front of

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 the lip, as shown in the images. Try to make
the lips look as symmetrical as possible,
but don’t fret if they aren’t perfectly
symmetrical, Golden Boy’s don’t look
perfect either. Now crochet the eyebrows:
for both the eyebrows attach the yarn to
the 2nd front loop (where the arrows point
to) and finish as sc, sl st in next.

Weave in the starting ends the same way as you did for the lips. The
ends where you stopped you weave in at the edge of the 1st front loops,
as shown in the image.

Now you can attach the eyes and stuff the head. Start stuffing by
inserting a bit of extra fibrefill in the nose and then continue stuffing.
Don’t just put the stuffing in but push it against the sides and mould the
outside. Keep in mind that you made some increases to create the
cheeks, so when you stuff, push the cheeks outwards to keep them in
shape. The hole that is left in the middle you can use to shape the head
and you fill that last.

13. (sc in next, s2tog) x 6 = 12

14. s2tog in next 6 = 6, sl st and leave yarn end for sewing.

Now stuff the rest of the head and sew the hole closed by putting the needle from the inside out,
through all the outside loops of the 6 st, clockwise. If you do it correctly, you can now pull the yarn
end and it will close the gap. Weave in the end so you'll have a nice oval head.

Nose
Sheep black or any very dark colour.

1. magic ring of 4 = 4, sl st in 1st and leave yarn

end for sewing.

Ears
Straw and work around the chain like you did for the head.

1. ch of 7. In 2nd ch from hook 2 sc, sc in next 4, 2 sc in last,

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 turn. 2 sc in bottom loop of that last, sc in next 5 = 15
2. ch 1, turn (go back), hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next 3, sc in next 6, hdc in next 4, sl st
in last = 15, leave yarn end for sewing. Weave starting end to the front.

Front paws
Straw

1. magic ring of 6 = 6
2. (sc in next, 2 sc in next) x 3 = 9
3-4. sc in each around = 9
5. s2tog x 2, sc in next 2, 2 sc in next 2, sc in next = 9
6. s2tog, sc in next 7 = 8
7. s2tog, sc in next 6 = 7
8-12. sc in each around = 7
13. sc in next 7 = 7, sc in the next st & mark this stitch, sl in
next and weave in yarn end.

* Tip for weaving in the yarn ends of the paws: with your embroidery needle, go into the same st you
did the sl st in from the outside in and pull tight. Now sew through a stitch of the piece and
somewhere into the piece again to secure the yarn. Do another ‘hidden stitch’ and cut the yarn end.

Stuff the paws lightly. First insert a little bit of stuffing in the feet and then insert a tiny amount of
stuffing in the rest of the paw. Mould the stuffing through the paw, so it looks a bit rounder than when
it wasn’t stuffed but still feels flexible and not stiff.

Body
Straw

1. magic ring of 6 = 6
2. 2 sc in each around = 12
3. (sc in next, 2 sc in next) x 6 = 18
4. (sc in next 2, 2 sc in next) x 6 = 24

In the next round you are going to create a little hole where you later will add the tail.

5. sc in next 15, ch 4, skip 3, sc in next 6 = 25

6. sc in next 15, sc in next 4 in BLO, sc in next 6 = 25
7-12. sc in each around = 25
13. sc in next 5, s2tog x 2, sc in next 16 = 23
14. sc in next 5, 2 sc in next 2, sc in next 8, s2tog x 2, sc in next 4 = 23
15. sc in next 6, 3 sc in next, sc in next 16 = 25

In the next 2 rounds you are going to join the front paws to the body. In round 16 you secure the
back of the paws to the body. In round 17 you will join the front of the paws to the body, by ignoring
the join stitches you made in round 16 and creating a complete new round. In the images you can
see how it looks.

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*Special stitch instruction

The joinA stitch: Insert your hook in the next stitch of paw, insert your hook in the next stitch of body,
yo and pull through all loops on hook (a normal sc through two stitches instead of one).

The joinB stitch: Insert your hook into the next stitch of piece 1, yo and pull through, insert your hook
in the next stitch of piece 2, yo and pull through, yo and pull through all 3 loops on hook.

16. You left the stitch markers in the 1st st of the paws so you
can easily find the right stitches to attach. In the 2nd st you
did the sl st so it gets easily overlooked. For the left paw
(the one you join first), join st 4-2 of the paw to st 5-7 of the
body. For the right paw, join st 4-2 of the paw to st 9-11 of
the body. Work as follows:

sc in next 4, sc joinA in next 3, 2 sc in next,

sc joinA in next 3, sc in next 8, s2tog, sc in next 4 = 25

17. sc in next 3, sc joinB in next of body to 1st free stitch of paw,

2 sc in next of paw, sc in next of paw, sc in next of paw
(remove marker),

sc joinB in same of paw to 1st free of body, sc in next of

body (you have made 10 stitches so far, continue…)

sc joinB in same of body to 1st free of paw, sc in same of

paw, sc in next of paw, 2 sc in next of paw, (now 15…)

sc joinB in next of paw (remove marker) to 1st free of body,

sc in next 12 of body = 28

18. sc in next 3, s2tog, sc in next 9, s2tog, sc in next 5, s2tog x 2, sc in next 3 = 24

19. sc in each around = 24

20. sc in next 19, s2tog x 2, sc in next = 22

21. sc in next 5, s2tog, sc in next 11, hdc in next 4 = 21

22. sc in next 10, s2tog, sc in next 5, s2tog x 2 = 18

23. sc in next 15, hdc in next 3 = 18

24. hdc in next 2, sc in next, sl st and leave yarn end for

sewing.

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Tail
Straw

1. Attach the yarn to the bottom right stitch and finish as 1st sc, sc in
next 2 of the skipped st, sc in side st, sc in next 4 st (the chain), sc in
next side st = 9
2. sc in next, 2 sc in next, sc in next 2, 2 sc in next, sc in next 2, 2 sc in next,
sc in next = 12
3-6. sc in each around = 12
7. (sc in next 5, 2 sc in next) x 2 = 14
8-13. sc in each around = 14
14. (sc in next 5, s2tog) x 2 = 12
15. sc in each around = 12
16. (sc in next 2, s2tog) x 3 = 9
17. sc in each around = 9

Now you can insert a pipe-cleaner in the tail (not safe for small children) and stuff it lightly.

18. (sc in next, s2tog) x 3 = 6, sl st in 1st and leave yarn end for sewing.

Now stuff the tail very lightly and sew the hole closed by putting the needle from the inside out,
through all the outside loops of the 6 st, clockwise. If you do it correctly, you can now pull the yarn
end and it will close the gap. Weave it in so the tail has a round end.

Back paws
Straw

1. magic ring of 6 = 6
2. (sc in next 2, 2 sc in next) x 2 = 8
3-4. sc in each around = 8
5. sc in next 3, s2tog, sc in next 3 = 7
6-8. sc in each around = 7
9. sc in next 3, 3 sc in next 2, sc in next 2 = 11
10. sc in next 5, 2 sc in next 2, sc in next 4 = 13
11. sc in next 6, 2 sc in next 2, sc in next 5 = 15
12. sc in next 7, 2 sc in next 2, sc in next 6 = 17
13-14. sc in each around = 17

Stuff only the foot with a little bit of stuffing. Do NOT stuff the rest of the paw.

15. sc in next 8, s2tog, sc in next 7 = 16

16. (sc in next 2, s2tog) x 4 = 12, sl st and leave yarn end for sewing.

For the dog’s left paw: sc in next 6, sl st. (You add these extra stitches to make

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the paws the same length at both sides. Because you fold this one to the other side, it would have
been shorter without the extra stitches.) The paws aren’t stuffed (except for the feet) and are shaped
as flat as possible. In the images you can see the intended shape.

Harness
Blue or any colour you like. Now, there is a possibility that the harness won’t fit your dog (it should fit
tight), because we all crochet with a different tension. When the first circle is finished, see if it fits; if it
doesn’t, you can increase or decrease stitches by 2.

Ch 29 st. Make the ch into a circle by attaching the yarn to the 1st ch; make sure not to twist it. Sl st in
next 13, dc in next, treble in next, dc in next, sl st in next 13, now you are back at the beginning of the
circle. Ch 3, ch 1 and place marker in this ch, ch 30. Now make this ch into a circle by attaching the
end to the st you’ve marked (you now have two circles attached to each other by a ch.) Continue with
the 2nd circle: sl st in next 14, dc in next, treble in next, dc in next, sl st in next 13, sl st in 1st and
weave in yarn ends. To finish the harness, attach the treble stitches from both circles to each other to
create a nice front.

Assembling the dog

It's recommended that you read this whole section before you start sewing. The assembly
needs to be done with care. Take your time in sewing everything together and always pin the
parts before sewing, to see how it looks and to be sure everything is at the best spot. Check
the pictures before you start assembling the animal.

Start by finishing the head. The nose is placed on the top half of the starting
chain round. You can experiment a bit yourself before you sew it tight, but
make sure there is enough space below the nose for the lip. When the nose is
sewn in place, embroider the lip and mouth as shown in the image, make sure
the yarn enters underneath the nose so you wont see an empty stitch
between the nose and lip.

Before you attach the ears, fold them into the right shape as shown in the illustration
and pin them loosely to round 11; there are about 7 stitches between the ears. For the
left ear, the yarn end is at the top of the ear, for the right ear it is at the bottom. If
you’ve folded the ears correctly they should run along with round 11; if not you can
adjust the fold to get it right.
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Now carefully lift the left ear and turn the head so it’s facing you and sew the folded edge of the ear
on the inside to the head (I have first woven the starting chain into the head and then used the yarn
end for sewing the rest). The first few stitches are made between round 9 and 10 and the last, where
the ear is folded more, on top of round 9. For the right ear it is the other way around, you start
sewing at the bottom. For the part that is folded most, you can sew some stitches closer to the fold
(back) of the ears so they lie nice and flat against the face. When they are sewn in place, take out the
pins and if necessary sew some hidden stitches where needed to give the ears the desired look. I
prefer to tell you exactly how to sew, but with small things like these ‘I just go where the needle takes
me’.

When the head is finished, stuff the body. The first 30% of it
is filled with pellets to give it some weight. On top of the
pellets you put the fibrefill; stuff the body like you stuffed
the head.

Now you can attach the head to the body. Stretch the body
into shape so the back is longer than the front. Prevent the
neck from becoming too narrow when you attach the head.
You sew between the stitches of the edge of the head and
from the outside in, through both loops of the stitches of the
edge of the body.

Now attach the paws to the body. They are not stuffed or closed but folded flat and into the shape as
shown in the image at the leg section. Place the dog in front of you like a bowling pin.
Pin the hip part of the paws to the sides of the body. Make sure the paws lie on the surface and check
to see if the dog sits upright by himself. Use the images to see how to place them. Rounds 1-8 will
form the paws and are loose from the body; rounds 9-16 form the hip and are attached to the body.
Make sure the back paws are behind the front paws when the dog is sitting. The hip part of the leg is
attached on top of round 4-13 of the body. I’ve sewn the back of the hips (the open part) and a few
stitches above and below it, with an invisible join. To get an invisible join, you sew from the inside out

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 into a stitch of the edge of the hip and over it into the
body. If you do it correctly, there should not be a big bump.
The front part of the hip that faces the belly I haven’t sewn
with an invisible join, but only secured to the body by
sewing through the whole hip and into the body, without
changing the look from when it is pinned. You can hardly
tell that this bit is sewn to the body; it looks loose. Check
the images to see what I mean. To finish the front paws, sew
the top of them flat so they look like little feet and sew 3
nails on each foot, as shown in the images.

To finish your cute golden retriever, put on the harness (first put the whole harness over the head and
then fold the front paws through it) and look at that, what a fabulous little friend you’ve just made! I
bet it’s your own dog or a friend’s. Cherish him forever!

Here are some more pictures to help you get everything right.

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Feedback
If you have any questions or trouble while making the pattern, don't hesitate to contact me at
svanderwijk@gmail.com. Also, if you see a mistake in the pattern please let me know! To find info,
useful tips and more patterns, please visit Son's Popkes. For updates and more you can follow me on
Instagram.

Enjoy!

Copyright © 2021 by Sonja van der Wijk.

All rights reserved. Unauthorised copying and/or distribution of patterns I have designed as well as commercial gain through
unauthorised sales of such patterns are prohibited. Permission is granted to make items from patterns I have designed for personal
use only. I do give permission to sell items you create using my patterns; please give me, sonspopkes.com, credit for designing the
patterns. Please do not sell items made from patterns I have designed on a large scale on Etsy or similar platforms.

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