ACM 0.01 - Evenness - Barista Hustle
ACM 0.01 - Evenness - Barista Hustle
01 – Evenness
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Evenness
If you distilled all the content from Barista Hustle into one essential
concept, you would end up with the word evenness. This word describes
the best barista techniques, the best coffee harvest, and the imaginary ideal
of the perfect grind morphology.
As your coffee-making advances and your sensory skills become tuned in,
you will notice unevenness manifests in flavours as sourness and
bitterness. Physically, this identifies most often as weakness and under-
extraction.
The Advanced Coffee Making course empowers both the barista working
on a traditional pump-machine, and the barista running quality assurance
on a super-automated machine. This course is working on two fronts to
better equip you: 1) we teach you how best to measure strength using what
machines and techniques we have, and 2) we train your sensory awareness
to detect unevenness.
The theory behind our thinking on what makes one piece of equipment or
technique better than another is its ability to reduce the variance of
extraction in all grinds. That means, for example, as grinder development
advances, we’d look for a grinder that delivers particles of exactly the same
size and shape. It means when we design a tamper, it’s designed to be able
to promote the most possible evenness of all the coffee in the coffee bed.
End 0.1
ACM 0.02 – Channelling and
Distribution
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When brewing espresso, for instance, there are three aspects of a poorly
designed tamper that could potentially have negative effects on evenness: a
very loose fit in a 58mm basket, convex in shape, and/or has a heavily
bevelled edge or edge radius on the bottom of the tamper base.
This diagram shows a ‘bevelled edge’; a common design used in tamper
bases which we find reduces extraction efficiency.
Like the bevelled edge, many tamper designs feature an ‘edge radius’,
intended to reduce dents and scratches which we have found reduces
extraction efficiency.
An experienced barista may look at these factors and expect the tamper to
be less effective. However, an acid test for evaluating equipment design lies
in comparing whichever equipment can brew a stronger coffee while
keeping brew parameters identical. Evidence for a stronger coffee comes
from measuring strength through sensory analysis (which tastes stronger?)
and physical analysis (which has more extracted coffee solids in it?)
One of the core technical skills a barista can bring to a cafe environment or
competition scenario is the effective distribution of coffee. Distribution of
coffee grinds can be achieved through horizontal palm tapping, vertical
collapsing, or distribution via fingers or other mechanical tools. When
you’re levelling coffee grinds horizontally, problems can occur if you hit the
portafilter with a hard surface (like a tamper base) as the force is
unidirectional; the grinds will travel unevenly towards the impact point.
The heel of your hand could be a more suitable medium to use here,
using palm tapping. When distributing vertically, the forks of your grinder
or a solid bench surface can allow the grinds to uniformly collapse into the
coffee bed. Again, particles will travel in the same direction:
unidirectionally.
End 0.2
ACM 0.03 – Nomenclature
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This term brew-ratio can cause confusion in the way it’s expressed. Most
baristas use ‘grams per litre’ for filter coffee and ‘Espresso Brew Formula’
(EBF) for espresso, but this is far from a rule.
Grams per Litre: The traditional way this term is applied is grams per
litre where the ratio refers to your total brew water amount. For example, a
batch brewed filter coffee machine dispensing 1L of water using 60g of
coffee, would be called 60g/L.
Mills per gram: People often break this down to a ratio where they
establish how much water you add for every single gram of coffee, so for
the example of 60g/L the ratio would be reduced to 16.6667:1 (1000ml
divided by 60g).
Liquid Retained Ratios (LRR): When you brew coffee, not all the
water you use manages to leave the grinds. When brewing filter coffee the
coffee bed will usually hold on to a little over 2ml of water per gram of
coffee. With espresso, the spent puck will absorb a little over 1ml of water
per gram of coffee. The best way to work out your exact liquid retained
ratio for filter coffee is to weigh your beverage and/or spent grinds. For
espresso, it’s a little more complicated, involving a range of calculations.
End 0.3
ACM 0.04 – Grind Size
Distribution
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Grinds
Along the y-axis (vertical) is percentage volume. When you assume that
every grind is a sphere, then it’s quite easy to figure out how much volume
they have. To find the percentage volume you add up the collective volume
of every particle at a particular size, then calculate the percentage of the
total volume of all the grinds that they represent.
For example, we compare the two lines at 400um, you’ll notice the red line
indicates 1% volume and the blue line 1.4% volume. This means there are
40% more 400um particles produced by the home grinder.
It’s easiest to think of this graph simply as how much of each size there is.
If you follow the curve from left to right, you’ll find very few single micron-
sized particles, and a fair few tiny particles we call fines between zero and
50um.
Note: We consider a fine to be any particle that graphs to the left of the
main particle size group. In practice, this is usually smaller than 100um.
There’s a small dip around 100um, with the large majority of the grinds
sitting between 200um and 1000um. Remember, the larger the grind size,
the more internal surface area it has, making extraction harder.
Even with the red line here, if you assume all of these grinds are spheres,
you’ll find 70% of the surface area is created by grinds on the left side of
the dip. Only 30% of the surface area is contributed by grinds larger than
150um. The particles that make up 70% of the surface area only represent a
small fraction of the total volume of coffee. This helps to emphasise the
disparity in extraction within a single brew.
End 0.4
ACM 0.05 – Temperature and
Time
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Temperature
The hotter the water, the more compounds will be dissolved. Increasing
the water temperature increases the temperature of the compounds
themselves, which in turn increases their solubility. Water cannot exceed
100°C at sea level, so this places a limit on the compounds which can
dissolve into the brew. At low temperatures, water won’t dissolve all of the
flavours we usually get with hot water. This can be seen with the stark
difference between cold brew and hot brewed coffee. Cold brewed coffee
has much less sweetness. It is these sweet, heavier organic
molecules hot water readily dissolves. Additionally, the quality and
desirability of those compounds change drastically across different coffees
and roast styles.
Time
The longer the water and coffee are in contact, the greater the number of
soluble compounds that can be dissolved. Temperature can be somewhat
interchanged with time. This is why cold extractions require hours to reach
completion, and hot brews only seconds or a few minutes to taste good. As
with above, the swap isn’t linear as there are some compounds that just
will not dissolve in cold water.
End 0.5
ACM 0.06 – Surface Area and
Flow
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Surface Area
We grind coffee to dramatically increase its surface area. Without this step,
the water won’t be able to dissolve and transport soluble flavours into the
cup. A finer grind will increase surface area by creating a larger number of
smaller particles. A coarser grind will reduce surface area by creating a
larger number of larger particles. The larger the surface area, the more
flavour is available to the water, and the higher your extraction can be.
Note that we said, “can be”. A finer grind doesn’t guarantee a higher
extraction. You also have to make sure the water can access all of that extra
surface area. For example, a grind that’s too fine in an espresso machine
will choke, reducing your extraction practically to zero.
Flow
Fresh hot water is great for dissolving coffee flavours. The first water you
pour onto the coffee grinds will immediately start extracting flavour from
them. As the extraction continues, and those flavours are moved into the
water, it becomes less adept at dissolving more compounds. Providing the
coffee grinds with fresh brewing water will increase the rate and amount of
extraction (providing there are still flavour compounds left to be
extracted).
End 0.6
ACM 0.07 Prologue and Recap
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Prologue Recap
Evenness is at the heart of best practice, right across the coffee chain
from farm to cup.
The longer the contact time of a coffee extraction, the larger the range
of compounds that can be dissolved.
Grinding coffee increases the available surface area. The larger the
surface area, the more flavour is available to the water which can
increase your ability to reach high extraction yields.
Wherever you the reduce the flow rate of water through a pressurised
or gravity fed coffee bed, you increase the contact time between H2O
molecules and the soluble compounds you want them to bond with.
This increases your ability to reach higher extraction yields.
New Terms
Fines: Any particle that graphs to the left of the main particle size
group on a grind size distribution chart. In practice, this usually
means particles with a diameter smaller than 100um.
Grams Per Litre: A measurement used to refer to the dose and brew
water amount used in a brewing recipe. Most often this term is
applied to batch brewed coffee.
Mills Per Gram: how much water you add for every single gram of
coffee.
End 0.7