Sıbel Sardag,

Ozcan Ozdemır,
The Effects of Heat-Setting
*Ismaıl Kara on the Properties of Polyester/Viscose
Department of Textile Engineering,
Uludag University, Blended Yarns
Görükle, Bursa 16059, Turkey
E-mail: sibels@uludag.edu.tr Abstract
30 tex and 20 tex yarn bobbins consisting of 67% PES - 33% viscose were subjected to heat-
*Can Textile, setting at 90 °C & 110 °C, and under a pressure of 630 mmHg in order to investigate the
Corlu, Tekirdag, Turkey effects of heat-setting conditions on the properties of twisted yarns. Both heat-set and unset
yarns were dyed. The tensile strength properties (tenacity and elongation at break) of each
yarns were measured before heat-setting, after heat-setting and after dyeing. The inner,
middle and outer sections of the yarn bobbins were measured with a spectrophotometer
to find differences in color. As a result, heat-setting and dyeing processes were found to be
effective in the tenacity and elasticity of yarns.

Key words: heat setting, twist setting, twisting, temperature, polyester (PES), viscose,
tenacity, work of rupture.

ventional systems and operate under ral qualities, brightness and comfortable
vacuum with saturated steam are used wearing property of viskose fiber. In ad-
in conditioning and heat-setting. With dition, viscose fiber has a high elasticity
the aid of steaming in these systems, when compared with cotton fibres. When
yarns are conditioned or heat-set with used together with PES fibers, viscose
saturated steam under vacuum [3]. fiber gives a more hormonious blend as
regards elongation at break [8].
The Heat-setting process, a treatment
n Introduction with steam under vacuum, improves Since the tenacity of the wet cotton yarn
efficiency and quality in weaving and is higher than that of dry ones, cotton
Moisture in the atmosphere has a great knitting plants by reducing yarn ten- yarns have a higher tenacity under high
impact on the physical properties of tex- sion, softening yarns, moisturising them moisture [9]. Studies concerning heat-
tile yarns and fibres. Relative humidity homogenously, eliminating electrostatic setting are limited in literature and nearly
and temperature decides the amount of effects and reducing fly and dust [4]. all of these studies are related to cotton
moisture in textile materials. Exposing because of its positive reactions against
yarn to high moisture during produc- Unset yarns squeeze bobbins during moisture. For this reason, the current
tion generally yields negative results, as dyeing with a pressure from the out- study which has been performed on the
well as being undesirable for technical side section towards the inside section, heat-setting of yarns consisting of PES/
processing. On the other hand, a high as a consequence of which bobbins get viscose is expected to make a contribu-
degree of moisture adequatelly exposed deformed. The higher the temperature tion to textile literature.
to yarn improves its physical proper- of heat setting is the less the bobbins get
ties and enables the standard humidty deformed [5]. Improper heat setting is
of yarn to be reached. Yarns with lower considered to be a factor which increases n Experimantal
moisture content than the standard value skewness in weaving, a situation in In this study, 30 tex and 20 tex carded
result in monetary loss in sale. Therefore, which warp and weft yarns cannot be tied yarns consisting of 67% PES and 33%
conditioning and heat-set is to provide together with a right angle, although they viscose were used - the linear density and
an economical device for supplying the are straight [6], and it increases diagonal staple length of PES fibres were 1,6 dtex
necessary moisture in a short time [1]. run in knitwear [7]. and 38 mm respectively, and the linear
density and staple length of viscose fibres
Each step in the manufacturing proc- Since saturated steam used in heat-set- were 1.7 dtex and 39 mm, respectively.
ess, such as twisting, spinning, weaving, ting provides man- made fiber with good Yarns were wound onto bobbins with
knitting etc., causes tension in fiber and thermal conductivity, steaming processes a Schlafhorst Autoconer 238 machine.
yarns. Yarns tend to snarl in order to re- under vacuum make it possible for bob- These yarns were subjected to heat-set-
lax themselves and get rid of this tension. bins to shrink homogenously in every ting under 630 mmHg pressure and at
Tension and snarling are likely to lead to section. The yarns of such a bobbin are temperatures of 90 °C and 110 °C with
problems in the following manufactur- dyed homogenously without causing a machine working in compliance with
ing processes [2]. The purposes of con- stripe effects or colour differences be- the direct vacuum steaming system of
ditioning and heat-setting (twist-setting) tween the inner and outer sections of the the Welker Company. The cycles below
are to relax yarns, to prevent them from bobbin [5]. were followed:
snarling, to enable them to be worked n Pre-heating : 45 °C
efficiently in the following processes and The blend consisting of PES and viscose n Vacuum : 630 mmHg
to fix yarn-twisting. Today, besides con- is used widely in the textile industry. n Heating : 90 °C (10 min),
ventional system, other systems which This type of blend benefits from the high 110 °C (20 min)
can eliminate the downsides of the con- strength of PET fiber and from the natu- n Vacuum balance : 500 mmHg

50 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe October / December 2007, Vol. 15, No. 4 (63)
Yarn bobbins were dyed in a Mini-HT As can be seen in Figure 1, the heat-set
laboratory-type bobbin dyeing machine process brought about a considerable
produced by Dilmenler Machinary In- improvement in the tenacity of yarn. The
dustry. The dyeing process was carried rate of increase varied between 15% and
out according to the conventional two- 19.9%, depending on the yarn count and
step dyeing method. PES fibres were first temperature of the process (Table 1). The
dyed with disperse dyes at 130 °C, and tenacity of yarns, subjected to heat-set
they were then subjected to reductive showed a decrease of 4.4 – 11.3% after
clearing at 75 °C. In the second step, vis- the dyeing process; however, their yarn
cose fibres in the blend were dyed with tenacity was still higher than the tenacity
reactive dyes at 80 °C, and then after- of unset yarns. Fıgure 1. The effect of the heat-setting
process on tenacity of yarn.
treatments (washings) for reactive dye-
ing were performed. Finally, the bobbins In textile material science, a classic and
were dried on a radio frequency drier. fundamental problem is the connec-
tion between the tensile properties of
Yarn count, twist and tenacity measure- fibers and yarns. A yarn is a complex
ments of the yarns were taken before system made by a fibrous structure, i.e.,
and after heat-setting and after dyeing. a bundle consisting of a given number of
Before the measurements were taken, all single fibers; this bundle, after twisting,
the yarns were kept under standard con- becomes a yarn. [11] The improvments
ditions. (at 20 °C ± 2 °C and 65% ± 2% observed in the tenacity of PES/viscose
relative humidity) Yarn count measure- yarns after heat-setting can be an attrib-
ments were carried out in compliance uted to the effects of this thermal process
on PES fibers, which constituted 67% Fıgure 2. The effect of the heat-setting
with ISO 2060. Yarn twist measurements process on elongation at breake of yarn.
of the blend. The physical and chemical
were taken in accordance with ISO 2061
properties of fibers such as dye absorp-
on a James H.Heal twisting meter. Te- The heat-setting processes increased
tion, strength etc. are close related to the
nacity measurement of all the yarns was the values of yarn elongation within the
structure of non-crystalline sections. Due
performed in accordance with ISO 2062
to the temperature of the heat-setting range of 5.4% and 8.7%. Since cellulose
on Uster Tensorapid 3.
applied, the rate of crystalline sections, macromoleculles, which form regener-
the average distance between crystalline ated cellulose fibres, are short, the att-
A spectrophotometer was used to find centers and the number of bonds between raction between these macromollekules
out whether inner, middle and outer macromolecules in fibres increased, as a was not very strong. Therefore, when a
sections of the bobbins had any differ- consequence of which the degree of ori- force parallel to the fiber axis was app-
ences in colour. Measurement was made entation in fibres increased, causing an lied to the regenerated cellulose fibers,
with an observational angle of 10° and improvement in the yarn tenacity [12]. bonds between the macromollecules
with D65 illuminant, using the CMC 2:1
weakened, causing the fibers to break.
equation [10]. To investigate the effects The slight decrease in the yarn tenacity Breakages of wet regenerated fibres took
of heat-setting and dyeing properties on after the dyeing process was something place more easily because of the swell-
the yarn tenacity and elongation at break, expected. This fall arose from the fact ing and sliding effects of water [12, 13].
t tests were performed at 5% (0.05) and that especially viscose fibers and partly Consequently, the elongation values of
10% (0.1) level of significance . PES fibres get slightly damaged dur- the wet regenerated cellulose fibers were
ing reductive washing with NaOH. The noticeably higher than those of dry ones.
t-tests we performed show that heat- sett-
n Results and discussion ing and dyeing process affect the tenacity
Generally, the tenacity values decreased,
but elongation values (%) increased,
The effects of heat-setting at 90 °C and of yarns. while these fibres were wet [9 - 13]. The
110 °C, and of the following dyeing proc- increase observed after the application of
ess on the tenacity and elasticity proper- The effects of heat-setting at 90 °C and heat-setting in the elongation (%) values
ties of 20 tex and 30 tex yarns are given 110 °C and of dyeing on the elongation of the yarn fell a little after the dyeing
in Table 1. % of yarn are given in Figure 2 . process. However, the elongation values
(%) obtained after the dyeing process are
Table 1. Changes in yarn tensile strength properties after heat-setting and dyeing process. still higher than those of the unset yarns.
Yarn properties
The heat-setting process improved both
After heat-setting After dyeing the tenacity and elongation (%) of these
Parameters (Changes as %) (Changes as %) yarns. The t tests performed indicate that
30 tex 20 tex 30 tex 20 tex heat-setting and dyeing processes aff-
90 °C 110 °C 90 °C 110 °C 90 °C 110 °C 90 °C 110 °C ected the elongation (%) of the yarns.
X 15.0 19.9 16.9 15.7 -4.4 -4.8 -11.3 -9.5
Tenacity, cN/tex
CV % -14.3 -15.8 13.6 12.3 9.3 16.7 -6.9 -5.5
After heat-setting, the work of rupture
Elongation at X 8.9 8.7 8.7 5.4 -3.0 -5.7 -6.0 -3.7 values of the yarns increase by 12 -15%,
break, % CV % -20.7 -25.5 11.8 8.8 3.2 11.4 -7.7 -6.5
and, as a result of this, these yarns were
X 15.0 12.4 13.6 12.9 -4.3 -5.5 -4.8 -4.5
Work of rupture, expected to show a higher performance
cN CV % -13.9 -14.1 18.7 16.9 4.3 8.9 -8.8 -8.0
in the following process. These values

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe October / December 2007, Vol. 15, No. 4 (63) 51
 ven into fabrics, snarlings cause faulty weakening of intermolecular ties fascili-
and lower grade fabrics. Therefore, yarns tate an easier shift of molecules. In this
needs heat setting in order to prevent un- case, the moisture acted as a lubricant.
twisting and snarling [14]. Heat intensified the motion of molecules,
reduced the forces of intermolecular
Twisted yarns which were subjected to effect and their shift became easier. As
the setting processes underwent some twisted yarns were heated in swelled
changes in their interior structure, as a state (i.e. stressed state) the macromol-
result of which resilient and elastic de- ecule shift occured quicker.
formations were able to take place and
Fıgure 3. The effect of the heat- setting
process on work of rupture of yarn. the macromolecules of the yarn able to If twisted yarn swelled in a free state,
change from a curved to a straight shape. its cross section increased and the ori-
At the same time, the monofilaments entation of yarns remained unchanged,
decreased by 4 - 6% after the dyeing
could have become somewhat elongated a shrinkage of yarn could be observed
process (Figure 3). Increases obtained
and come to occupy a position in which with a certain reduction in its strength.
after heat-setting at 110 °C were lower
than those obtained after heat setting at they would follow a helical path without The yarns were stretched in a swelled
90 °C. The increase observed in the work stresses, as the elastic forces would be state to increase their strength [14].
rupture value of the yarns decreased a suppressed.
little because of reductive washing in the The setting of twist in case of polyester
dyeing process but this value was still The straightening of macromolecules led yarns was accomplished only by heating
higher than that of the unset yarns . to yarn elongation, but elastic forces tend- but without swelling of yarns. By mois-
ed to shorten them. As a result, there was tening the twisted yarns, having a stabi-
Work of rupture can be considered to be the possibilty that yarn length might re- lised twist in the free state, the reverse
the working capacity of the yarn. Work- main unchanged, but due to the suppres- process of deformation relaxation took
ing capacity is the most important value sion of elastic forces, the stresses in yarns place which imparted the capacity of
which showed the yarn performance could have almost disappearred [14]. spontaneous untwisting to the yarn[14].
in the following processes. The work
capacity of a yarn corresponds to the Viscose yarns featured high hygroscopic- Changes in the yarn’s linear density and
area below the stress-strain curve and ity, good adsorbency, and swelling. twist as a result of heat- setting are given
expresses the behavior of the yarn dur- Swelling of viscose yarns was accom- in Table 2.
ing subsequent treatment. Therefore, it is pained by an increase in yarn cross sec-
suggested that increases in the tenacity tion by 25 - 65% and an insignifficant As it can be seen in Table 2 slight chang-
and elasticity of the yarn should not be increase by 3-5% in fibre length [9, es took place in the twisting values of the
assessed individually, but together with 14]. The cause of this change is that yarn after heat-setting. This process fixed
its work capacity [3]. cellulose macromolecules which form yarn twisting and eliminated yarn liveli-
viscose fibres shorten and the rate of the ness, thus preventing snarling. Thus, we
The CV % values which belong to te- amorphous part of fibre is high [13]. The were able to enhance the performance
nacity, elongation and work of rupture
of 30 tex and 20 tex yarns are given Table 2. Linear density and twist measurements of 30 tex and 20 tex PES/viscose yarns
in Table 1. While 30 tex yarn showed after heat- setting.
decreases in tenacity, elongation at break Yarn properties
(%) and work of rupture, CV % values 30 tex 20 tex
Parameters
after heat- setting at 90 °C and 110 °C, Heat-set at Heat-set at Heat- set at Heat-set at
20 tex yarns showed increases in these 90 °C 110 °C 90 °C 110 °C
CV% values. The tenacity of the yarn tex 29.4 29.4 19.6 19.6
Pre-heat setting t.p.m. 963 959 960 964
decreased and tenacity CV% values
increased as the yarn got thinner. Tenac- tex 30.1 30.4 20.0 20.2
Post-heatsetting t.p.m. 940 930 934 935
ity CV% values of 30 tex yarn were
increased after dyeing, however they Changes as %
tex 2.4 3.4 2.1 3.1
were lower than those of the unset yarns. t.p.m. -2.4 -3.0 -2.7 -3.0

The tenacity CV% values of 20 tex yarn tex 31.2 31.6 20.6 20.8
Post dyeing t.p.m. 919 915 920 922
were decreased after the dyeing process,
but they were high when compared with tex 3.7 3.9 3.0 3.0
Changes as %
t.p.m. -2.2 -1.6 -1.5 -1.4
the values obtained before heat-setting.

Twisted yarns tend to untwist. When Table 3. The results of color measurements made on 30 Tex and 20 Tex PES/Viscose
yarns.
twisted yarn tension is slackened (which
occurs at their unwinding from pack- Unset, ΔE Heat-set at 90 °C, ΔE Heat-set at 110 °C, ΔE
Yarn
ages), the yarns usually get coupled as count inner- middle- middle- inner- middle- middle- inner- middle- middle-
outer outer inner outer outer inner outer outer inner
loops and twisted in reverse direction
30 tex 0.18 0.19 0.18 0.14 0.15 0.17 0.19 0.19 0.17
forming snarls which lead to breakeges
20 tex 0.16 0.18 0.18 0.16 0.16 0.17 0.15 0.20 0.21
during furter yarn processing. When wo-

52 FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe October / December 2007, Vol. 15, No. 4 (63)
of the yarn in the following production For furter studies it will be useful to
processes by means of twist setting. investigate yarn liveliness and the re-
lationship between yarn liveliness and UNIVERSITY
The heat-setting of man-made yarns un- heat-setting .
der vacuum with saturated steam, besides OF BIELSKO-BIAŁA
reducing the residual shrinkage, resulted Faculty of Materials
in no dye variations in the fabric, no tube
buckling and no quality changes between Acknowledgments and Environmental Sciences
the inner and outer sections of the bobb- The authors wish to thank the authorities of
in [5]. The measurements performed, as CAN Textile for the opportunities they have The Faculty was founded in 1969 as
given in Table 3, show that no consider- provided and Dr.Mehmet Kanık for very the Faculty of Textile Engineering of the
able differences in colour among the useful discussions. Technical University of Łódź, Branch in
inner, middle and outer sections of the Bielsko-Biała. It offers several courses
bobbins existed. for a Bachelor of Science degree and a
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nificant after the measurements. Received 10.05.2006 Reviewed 26.01.2007

FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe October / December 2007, Vol. 15, No. 4 (63) 53