Rankin Photography Course Notes
Rankin Photography Course Notes
AN INTRODUCTION TO PHOTOGRAPHY
PA G E
About This Course 03 19. Getting The Most Out Of Your Subject 81
How To Use These Course Notes 04 20. In The Studio With Rankin 85
H E L LO, I ' M R A N K I N
I have been an international portrait and fashion photographer for over 30 years.
I’ve had the pleasure of creating some of the most iconic images of the world’s
most well-loved faces which are instantly recognisable across the globe.
My clients include everyone from royalty, Hollywood A-listers and the gods and
I love people and it has been my honour to take portraits of the world’s most
find their voice. I want to equip you with the skills that could enable you to take
your passion to the next level, setting you off on a journey that may possibly
These course notes are here to help you explore your new skills. You can dip in
and out of them as you watch the videos, and refer back to them as you take
up the challenges and exercises set for you along the way. You should read
them in order as each lesson is designed to build on what you have learned in
the previous one, developing your photography skills. This will allow you to see
your progress and appreciate how far you have come. You may find it useful
to grab a notebook to write down what you have learned after each lesson.
You can use it to keep a record of the exercises throughout the course. Once
you have completed the course, you will have your own personalised reference
learners find off putting. This course will keep it easy to understand for everybody
whatever level of experience you are starting from. The glossary will support
Throughout th e c o u rs e yo u wi l l fi n d i n - d ep t h in t e r v ie w s w it h t h re e fe ll o w
The notes will summarise the discussions but nothing beats hearing these
interviews will ensure you get the maximum benefit from those lessons.
Each section of the notes has been created to complement the corresponding lesson
and are designed to raise your skills and enhance your love for photography to the
point your passion for the form may even earn you money.
ESSENTIAL:
Anything goes.
. An apple or an orange and a torch (the one on your phone will do the trick).
. A blank notebook.
.
“
OPTIONAL:
.
A tripod
.
Reflectors*
Photography has been my passion for as long as I can remember. As soon as Back then, there was no money, just some big ideas and a fearless approach
I picked up a camera, I realised this was the tool that would let me show the to making them a reality. The lack of funds forced me to be inventive. It was
world how I saw it. It allowed me to express myself and my ideas. It was instinctive. a catalyst for my imagination and instilled a deep belief in me that if you have
I studied photography at college but all of my greatest lessons came from getting a vision, you can’t let anything stand in your way. You have to dive right in and
“
When Dazed was getting off the ground, I would go out and meet other young,
Nothing beats the feel It was such an exciting time to be at the heart of the art scene in London and
of a camera in your hand, I loved every minute of it. The 1990s were a hedonistic time but for me, the
work always came first. I loved it then and I love it now. It was during my Dazed
searching for your next years that my lifelong passion for portraiture took hold. I’ve had the privilege
great shot. ‘n’ Roll legends to political heavyweights, the stars of the future and thousands
My work has been on the front cover of all the world’s biggest magazines from
Vogue to my first love, Dazed! Every single portrait has been an honour. I have
My mum told me that if I chose to do something I love then I would never work honed my craft creating photographs that try to reveal something unique about
a day in my life and I’ve been doing what I love for over thirty years. In the early each subject. I learned how to direct the individual in front of my camera, how
1990s, I started a magazine called Dazed and Confused . I set out to explore to entice something unexpected from them, to get them to open up and give me
images and ideas that really excited me and that couldn’t be found in the other a part of themselves that is forever captured through my lens* .
everything and everyone I could have ever dreamed of. It is addictive and I want to share that passion, and what I’ve learned, with you.
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.
your vision of the world to others.
.
The best way to learn is to get out there and do it.
You don’t need money or expensive equipment, you just need passion,
EXERCISE
Who would you like to photograph? Who captures your imagination? Make a list.
It could be a celebrity you see on TV, an icon of old Hollywood or maybe it’s
someone you see on your commute each day. Let your imagination run free. But
once you have your list, work out why you want to photograph each person. What
would you hope to reveal in your portrait? How would you go about achieving that?
I am here to help you take photographs that will stand out from the crowd. I want Throughout the course, we will explore the art of portrait photography. It is
to help you take photographs that tell a story and will stop viewers in their tracks, the love of my life. Three fellow photographers will reveal their passion for
draw them in and spark their imaginations. photography. They will trace their own unique photographic journey; exploring
how they use their cameras to express themselves and to tell the stories that
matter to them.
All cameras are welcome here. Today most of us have a smartphone camera
challenged every step of the way to take your camera and put what you have
Whichever camera you are using, this course is designed to ensure you create learned into action to create photographs that excite you and show the viewer how
photographs that will impress across your social media feeds, grids and stories… you see the world.
and that is the way to start monetising your newly developed skills. Over 50%
But you are also here to put those new skills to work. We will get down to the
of photographers get clients purely through their Instagram account and it is
serious business of… exploring how to develop the skills you will need to earn
an essential tool for promoting your work.
a living from your photography; from finding your voice to networking with integrity
and purpose.
This will be a hands-on course. You will be joining me in my studio to see me
at work. I also want to help you take photos of the people you love, the moments in
your life you want to capture forever. Photography is such an important tool for
Beginning with the very basics, you will learn the essentials that apply to every documentation. It pierces straight to the heart. And those are the photos and
camera, from the camera phone almost everyone has in their pocket to DSLRs memories I want to help you create.
and even the most expensive cameras used by the professionals. These are
By the end of this course, you will be on your way to creating a unique portfolio
the fundamentals that underpin the art of photography. Once you have learned
of authentic, powerful work that will help you break through the noise* . Let’s
these basics and they have become second nature to you, this will allow you to
get started.
explore your ideas with confidence in your technical skills. It will free you up
TA K E A W AY S
. The fundamental rules you will learn throughout this course apply to all cameras.
“
Learning these fundamental rules will give your imagination a concrete
. You will find inspiration in other people’s work but you need to get out there
. You can learn the skills that may lead to making money from your photography.
You will be learning
first hand from some
EXERCISE
of the most inspirational
Think about three photographs that have really stood out to you. and visionary photographers
a) Why have they grasped you?
b) What has the photographer done to make this photograph special working today.
and resonate with you?
Portraiture is one of the most popular genres of photography. There is nothing A good portrait captures something unique about the subject but to do that
more compelling than the human condition. Our stories are written across our requires time and skill. The best photographs make you think and feel. They
faces. Our history can be found in the lines, the shadows and the scars. We should engage your brain and your heart. It is those images that really excite
a viewer, and those are the ones that last. Those are the images that we all
see ourselves reflected in portraits. They offer us a direct connection across
come back to time and again; allowing us to peel back layers to reveal something
space and time, spanning the years. We may never have met the person but
new about the world and the people in it each time. Those are the images that we
we are connected. When we view a portrait, we have an emotional response. It
all strive to take and that will be your goal here.
“
increases our ability to empathise with our fellow humans and allows us greater
understanding of ourselves and the world we live in. With each unique face
With the invention of the camera phone, photographs have become disposable.
a specific moment in time, grounded in the reality of an event that has happened.
You really did have that person in front of your lens. Having someone in the room Portrait photographs are ‘made’, not ‘taken’. It should be a collaborative process
and taking their picture is proof that they were there. But as the photographer, where the photographer and subject work together to create something special.
you have made choices in how to represent that person. That is something Every single person brings something unique to the collaboration and as the
photographer, you never know in which direction the process will take you.
essential for each photographer to tap into.
S A Y S O M E T H I N G – M A R I LY N M O N R O E
This is an early photograph exploring the role of celebrity. Mel was a college
student who looked like Marilyn Monroe, a public figure who potentially put
herself at risk by being in front of the camera. It was important not to simply
a revealing element to them to tell you something about the celebrity. Even
though this image is not of the real Marilyn Monroe, it is trying to say something
This is a photograph of my parents in our family home in St. Albans. They were
cleaning the house before we moved out. Not only is it an image that really
captures them as a couple, it is also fun and humorous. Sometimes the hardest
people to photograph are those closest to you because you know them so well.
But it is important to stretch yourself and take those portraits. It takes you out of
your comfort zone because you have to really work hard to capture something
the people you would love to photograph. Gilbert & George were right at the
forefront of the art scene in London during the early 1990s. Their phone number
was in the Yellow Pages and they said yes to being photographed. What an
opportunity. You’ve got to put your nerves aside and take your chance when it
presents itself. The concept of the photograph was to take two guys who
seemed to act as one person in the work and combine their legs in the portrait
This portrait of Björk was taken in America during a portrait session for the cover
of Dazed and Confused magazine. The session was spent out on the streets and
there were lots of good photographs but this one stood out from the rest. The
wind had suddenly picked up and swept her hair across her face. The years of
practice came to the fore in that moment. Practice allows you to adapt to the
circumstances and utilise those fortuitous events. It allows you to capture the
It is so impor tant to practise, to make sure your skills are second nature. It
means that you can, instinctively, recognise those decisive moments when they
occur and capture them with your camera. Lean into the idea of taking lots and
lots of pictures because when something happens in the moment and you have
the skills to capture it; that’s when you get memorable results.
are humans just like the rest of us. Always try to make a connection on a human
BJÖRK © RANKIN
BACK TO CONTENTS BBC MAESTRO 14 AN INTRODUCTION TO PHOTOGRAPHY
P R E PA R AT I O N – T O N Y B L A I R
This portrait was taken while Tony Blair was Prime Minister, at the start of the
war in Iraq. It was a photograph for the Financial Times supplement. It was
the first photograph of Tony Blair where he wasn’t smiling and turning on the
charm. It was about the seriousness of being a Prime Minister. The session
was only 15 minutes long but that is all you need to take an excellent shot. The
should be going into a portrait session with an idea about what you are trying
important to always have an idea for what you want to create when you go
into a portrait session but you also need to be able to work with the person
in the moment. Debbie’s makeup was so graphic it was clear it would make
a fantastic image and when someone’s eyes are closed, it makes a subtle
allusion to their mortality. That allusion is what makes this image so powerful.
Robert Downey Jr. was everything you could have hoped he would be and that
shows in the image. It is such an intense and direct connection with the viewer
Each subject is different and you should challenge your preconceptions. Meet
everyone and take them as you find them. Pete Doherty was a perfect example of
this. Sometimes collaborations come from the most unexpected things. Pete
had kittens on his rider. That is an unusual request but it provided a moment of
genius when Pete put the kitten on his shoulder. It gave me the opportunity to
take an image that was very sensitive and unexpected. When you look back at
yo u r w o r k there are alw ay s things you wish you could improve. This image
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PE TE DOHERTY © RANKIN
BACK TO CONTENTS BBC MAESTRO 18 AN INTRODUCTION TO PHOTOGRAPHY
PRECONCEPTIONS – GORDON BROWN
Like Pete, Gordon Brown also had a negative image in the press. He was seen
as a grumpy old man but in person he was the complete opposite. He was
subjects. It is a personal preference depending on the end result you are aiming
for. Making the subject feel comfortable through ensuring that it is a collaborative
process often brings about the best results because it builds trust and allows the
subject to feel safe and willing to open up in front of the camera in a way they
it in a different way and you can see that in the images. Your aim must be to
create the best image you can, whichever way feels most comfor table and
This is the perfect example of dealing with a complex situation. Mike Skinner
arrived at the shoot three hours late, on his mobile phone and remained on his
phone for another couple of hours. Instead of waiting for him, his mobile phone
became part of the shoot. There are even shots of him texting.
Sometimes you will find a subject who intimidates you and there was nothing
photographed by all the great photographers. How do you get something unique
from someone who spent their entire life being photographed and was naturally
very guarded? The aim was to take a photograph that nobody had ever seen
before. But she did have a sense of humour and that was the perfect way to get
something unique. She laughed when the camera malfunctioned, providing the
perfect opportunity to grab this single frame of her with a full smile.
There are so many different types of portraits you can take; from environmental
You will learn what works from studying their work; from the importance of framing
and composition* and the way light creates mood to the ability of a single frame
to tell a story that reaches across time to you, the viewer. There have been many
great photographers across the genres. Explore and discover who speaks most
QUEEN ELZABETH II © RANKIN
directly to you.
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and subcultures. Work of note: Identical Twins, Roselle, New Jersey (1967).
Arbus’s work explores people on the edge of society. She takes identical twins as
her subject and placing them side by side invites the viewers to look deeper and
Dorothea Lange used her lens to highlight the humanity, suffering and resilience
of the people at the heart of The Great Depression. Work of note: Migrant Mother
(1936).
Lange directed the mother and her children to achieve a haunting image that
had a direct impact on the government aid reaching the migrant workers from
© DOROTHEA LANGE
BACK TO CONTENTS BBC MAESTRO 23 AN INTRODUCTION TO PHOTOGRAPHY
HERB RITTS (1952-2002):
Herb Ritts used strong contrasts and stark lighting to create bold and powerful
Ritts captured a previously unseen side of a very young Madonna through the
black and white sultry pose that became the cover of her album True Blue.
It was the image that would come to define her new public persona.
The best portrait photographers are fascinated by people. They love the challenge
of finding that unique aspect of each person that makes them who they are and
capturing it. Each photograph is a collaboration between the photographer and the
person in front of the lens. You make those photographs together. It is a privilege
to connect with each subject and a unique opportunity to peel away the mask we
. With each portrait, the photographer is making deliberate choices about how
. Be prepared before the shoot but be ready to adapt if the situation calls for it.
You never know when you might get that one perfect shot.
EXERCISE
1. Choose a portrait to study, either one you know well or of a person you admire.
Research the photographer behind it, and any articles you can find to learn about
2. Pick three images you like that the photographers listed above have taken.
Study these images and think about what makes them unique. What emotions
do these images create within you? What emotions do you think resonated inside
3. Using the same images from the last exercise, write three different directions
for each image which you think the photograph and subject could have taken to
© RANKIN
make the image different.
own route into professional photography, and giving us their best advice for
enthusiasts who want to take their skills to the next level and possibly start
All three photographers share a passion for portrait photography. It has been
the catalyst for some of the most defining moments in both their careers and
their lives.
GILES DULEY
change. I was angry. People say ‘When did you become a photojournalist?’
Giles Duley’s love of photography and the power it has to change people’s lives
for the good has taken him deep into the heart of some of the world’s most
dangerous places.
In 2011, while he was embedded with a US Military unit (the 101st Airborne
a landmine. His injuries were life-changing. He was lucky to survive but he lost
three of his limbs, leaving him with only one arm. His road to recovery was long
and arduous but photography was at the very heart of his journey. Spurred on
by his first-hand experience of the devastating cost of war, he turned his camera
onto others facing the brunt of global warfare, creating Legacy of War, a charity
but a minor car accident aged 18 left him unable to play at a professional level.
Don McCullin. McCullin’s work opened Giles’ eyes to the world of war photography
Giles first earned a name for himself in fashion and celebrity photography but,
after the terror attacks on 9/11, he felt a need to document a rapidly changing
world and to challenge injustice with the only tool he had, his camera.
Everything starts with storytelling. Giles uses his camera to tell the stories of
the people he meets to galvanise the public into bringing about material change
for the people in the pictures. Photographs can be very powerful, opening up
living in desperate circumstances. They can raise awareness in the halls of power
and they can raise huge sums of money to create change for those who need it
most.
www.legacyofwarfoundation.com
© GILES DULEY
‘Every time you release that shutter, every single time you press that button
you take responsibility. Not just for making a wonderful photo. It’s an image,
and it’s someone’s image that is going to be remembered through time, and
also inspire the next generation.’ [ K E N K A M A R A ]
Ken Kamara is a family man first and foremost; bringing up his two young children
with his wife in his adopted home of Berlin. He is a photographer and a filmmaker
and first met Rankin when he assisted him in the mid 2000s.
Born in Sierra Leone, Ken studied at the London College of Communication and
each person you photograph and his subtle approach to developing narratives
and his compassion for the people he collaborates with has allowed him to
create evocative images with even the most reticent of subjects. His work has
taken him across the globe; notably capturing the unmasked faces of Tokyo
His love of photography came in his early twenties. He was in New York shortly
after the terror attacks of 9/11 and realised this was a unique moment in history
that should be captured on camera. The first smartphone cameras had just
appeared on the market and Ken was fascinated by the new technology, really
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Ken believes each photographer learns from the greats that went before them
and passes on what they have learnt to the next generation. This is how Ken
every click of the shutter. You are creating an image of someone that will last
through time. Photographers must also be aware of the body of work they are
creating. You are representing yourself and you are a voice for your community.
Each image must be considered and you must interrogate what you are trying
to communicate.
© KEN KAMARA
www.kenkamara.com
‘There are elements of history that we can't touch but we can emotionally feel
through just looking at one image. I think that’s bonkers, and beautiful and
speaks to the medium and what we can do with it and what we can get out of it.’
[BEXY CAMERON]
photographer. She also had a unique childhood. Bexy grew up in the Children of
God cult which cut her off from the wider world. She has written a book about
her time in the cult called Cult Following: My Escape and Return to the Children
of God .
Bexy who had never experienced everyday teenage life. All of a sudden, she had
direct access to a world she knew nothing about and it introduced her to the
p h o t o g r a p h e d t h e c o m m u n i t y o f p e o p l e i n 1 9 7 0 s a n d 1 9 8 0 s N e w Yo r k ,
at the he ar t o f th e c o mmu n i ty ; l i vi n g an d b re a t h in g i n t h i s w o r l d ra t h e r
and that spoke directly to Bexy, par ticularly after her childhood experiences.
Being embedded with your subject matter can allow you as a photographer to
gain a unique insight into the lives you are documenting. Bexy immersed herself
into the worlds she began photographing and it offered her the opportunity to
use her storytelling to break down the barriers faced by groups of people who
© BEXY CAMERON
www.bexycameron.com
.
.
There are many different styles of photography. Find the one that speaks to you.
.
There are many routes into the business so be proud of your own story.
.
change.
Explore the work of other photographers to discover the vast range of creative
EXERCISE
Write a list of 10 different photography styles that you are aware of. This list will
There are a vast range of cameras available today from analogue cameras that
. A basic ‘point and shoot’ digital camera* that was ubiquitous pre-smartphones.
It is small, portable and allows you to grab the shot when it happens however
. The more advanced DSLR (Digital Single-Lens Reflex)* and the mirrorless*
D I G I TA L S I N G L E - L E N S R E F L E X ( D S L R )
A DSLR le ts th e p h o to g rap h er see th e su b j e ct i n t h e o p t i ca l v ie w f in d e r v i a
a reflection from a mirror inside the camera body. When you look through the
viewfinder you are seeing exactly what your eyes would see in real life.
MIRRORLESS
In mirrorless cameras, the light goes directly to the sensor* and is viewed on
the LCD screens on the back and in the viewfinder. This means that what you
are seeing through the viewfinder is a preview of what it will look like after the
camera has applied the settings you have chosen. Smartphones are also all
mirrorless cameras.
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Medium format cameras are the favourite with many professionals. They have There are a lot of manufacturers and brands out there. Each person has their own
a larger sensor than DSLRs. They are incredibly versatile and reliable under preference. Photographers often stick with the brand of camera they are familiar
almost any condition. They capture one of the largest size files you can get; with, because they are used to using them but it really doesn’t matter which you
which gives you the most range for your post production. The larger the file, choose. There are people out there who will tell you that one manufacturer is better
the greater the options for retouching and blowing the image up for use on
than another and that you should be using a Canon or a Nikon. Ignore them. It
billboards without losing definition or detail.
really is a personal preference. The goal is to be creative and learn how to take
photographs.
A N A LO G U E v s D I G I TA L
Digital cameras are based on film cameras. You learn so much through shooting
on a camera that uses film. It is a great tool to really learn your craft. Buy yourself E X P E R I M E N TAT I O N
a second-hand film camera. It doesn’t have to be an expensive one and there are You will learn so much more by just experimenting and not worrying about all of
lots of affordable ones on internet auction sites and second-hand shops or you the technical stuff. Find out what is best for you in different situations. A point
can rent them. What you will learn on an analogue camera using film is how and shoot might be perfect for that party but your DSLR might be the right tool
to think about what you are shooting as opposed to rapidly firing off lots of for a portrait. Your camera phone is another essential tool. There is an assumption
digital files. It makes you consider what you are doing with each shot as each that ‘proper’ photographers don’t use their phones but that is simply not true.
exposure* will cost you money to develop, making mistakes expensive. A camera phone is a real camera and you should use it as much as you want to
use it. They have an amazing capacity to take excellent pictures if you know how
The converse of that is with a digital camera you can shoot and shoot and
to use them.
shoot. With that comes the ability to experiment without the pressure of needing
to get it right the first time and the opportunity to practise your skills… and as
K I T v s I M A G I N AT I O N
they say, ‘practice makes perfect’.
As a photographer you will discover that you keep learning. There are always
need to maximise the resources you already have. It doesn’t really matter what to understand. They are tools to make your work look good. It is important to
you are using, it’s about how you use it. The second-hand market is an excellent learn what the kit can do but don’t be restricted by that. It’s about using the kit
place to find decent cameras and renting is a cost-effective way to try a camera to make what is in your head get onto the sensor or the film and into a print or
. They all work in a very similar way and the basics will apply to them all.
. Learn how to shoot using an analogue camera. You will learn how to carefully
craft your image as each shot costs to develop so it forces you to truly
. Kit doesn’t have to be expensive. You can buy cameras secondhand or you
can even rent them if you want to try before you buy. Don’t let a lack of funds
. Don’t worry about which camera you are using, just start with what you have
and experiment. That is how you will learn the real lessons.
. The camera is just a tool to allow you to create the images you want to achieve.
“
Don’t be intimidated by the kit. The only true limit is your imagination.
EXERCISE
Photography doesn’t have
Think about these different cameras, which ones have you used before?
© RANKIN
BACK TO CONTENTS BBC MAESTRO 35 AN INTRODUCTION TO PHOTOGRAPHY
06. Smartphones
DSLR OR SMARTPHONE – WHICH IS RIGHT FOR YOU?
The smartphone has democratised photography. But just because everyone now
DSLR SMARTPHONE
has a camera within easy grabbing distance, it does not mean there is a world
full of photographers. Quantity does not mean quality. You still need the passion,
PROS CONS PROS CONS
the talent and the skills to take you from a hobbyist to a real photographer.
HIGH IMAGE GREATER SMALLER SIZE IMAGE QUALITY
QUALITY TECHNICAL ALLOWS MORE REDUCED IN
Smartphones today have incredibly powerful cameras for the size and cost and
KNOWLEDGE DISCREET LOW LIGHT
they keep getting better. A smar tphone can’t replace a top end professional IMAGES
NEEDED TO
camera but most of today’s great photographers use them all the time. MAXIMISE USE TO BE TAKEN
“
FOR CAMERA SOCIAL MEDIA THE MANUAL
BODY APPS SETTINGS
Smartphone cameras allow us to use our imagination to create images that To get the most out of your smartphone, make sure you get yourself in the
would have been prohibitively expensive for the budding photographer in the best position. Photography is a physical game. Get in there. Move about. Test
past. We can now shoot, preview, edit and send all at the touch of a button. all your angles and maximise the ‘burst’* option. A huge advantage of digital
It is then possible to instantly showcase this photography on social media photography is that you can take as many photographs as you like and select
platforms. the best one after. That’s how you learn. Often the best shot will be a few shots
after the first one when the subject has relaxed and become less aware of you
All the rules that apply to taking good photographs with your DSLR apply to and your camera.
your smartphone. The principles of photography are always the same and apply
to every type of camera. The advantage a smartphone has is its portability and A D VA N TA G E S
readiness to hand. Smartphones do have their limitations. For example, sometimes they are not
always powerful enough to cope with movement. But the quality can be superb
The key to getting professional results from your smartphone is to practise. and they are so easily shareable. Keep your eye out as companies are developing
You have to be prepared to take lots of shots, even bad ones. You will learn new features and technology all the time.
from them all. Get used to exploring your smartphone and really learning what
can be done with it. Perhaps the biggest advantage of all is we all now have the ability to create
our own portfolio and share it with the world. It is sitting in our pockets all day
PORTRAIT MODE* vs APPS long. You just need to know how to maximise its potential. It doesn’t matter
Most smartphones have a portrait mode. It gives the impression of shooting which brand of phone you use, as always, it is what you do with it that counts.
with a wide aperture* lens which creates a shallow depth of field* , making
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There are a variety of apps out there that will allow you to take incredibly
high-quality images and give you real control over the end result. They allow
you to grade the image* rather than using pre-set filters. They also allow you to
access the f-stop* and shutter speed*. This puts you in control of the finished
image and that is essential if you want to be creating portraits that truly stand
. You learn more from a failed attempt than you do from getting it perfect the
.
first time.
.
Portrait mode is the easy way out.
.
Use apps that allow you control over the settings to create unique images.
.
Your best shot will rarely be your first shot.
Smartphones put the control of all aspects of photography firmly into your
own hands.
© RANKIN
BACK TO CONTENTS BBC MAESTRO 38 AN INTRODUCTION TO PHOTOGRAPHY
07. Challenge 1: Auto
Get your smar tphone or your DSLR and take the very best and most original
How good a portrait can you get with the most basic kit readily available?
Take multiple shots and see how the image alters, and how the subject responds
Keep them. We will be coming back to them. The purpose of this exercise is for
you to see where you are starting from and just how far you will progress by the
end once we’ve explored exactly what it is that makes a portrait distinct and
unique. Share your images with BBC Maestro on social media, tag @BBCMaestro
and use the hashtag #RankinBBCMaestro. You will be able to look at other
“
Smartphones today have
incredibly powerful cameras
for their size and cost...
And they keep getting better.
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BACK TO CONTENTS BBC MAESTRO 39 AN INTRODUCTION TO PHOTOGRAPHY
08. The Basics
The automatic* settings on your camera will help you take perfectly average
photographs, but that is not what you came here for. If you want to really learn
how to use your camera and take images that stretch your creativity then you
will need to get to grips with the manual settings. Manual puts you in control.
There are other settings on your camera that will let the camera take charge
of certain aspects while allowing you to control others. None of those ‘priority’
“
settings give you full control and that is what we want here.
The terminology can put some people off, but the concepts are fundamental to
using your camera to its maximum potential. We will keep everything easy to
understand. Remember, the glossary is here to help you whenever you need it.
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A camera is a lens on one side and a digital light sensor on the other. The Exposure is controlled by three main settings; shutter speed, aperture and ISO*.
.
lens is simply a piece of glass that lets light in. The light passes through the Each setting controls exposure in a different way.
.
camera, hitting the sensor at the back which then records this light to make an I S O – ISO controls the sensitivity of your camera’s sensor to the light.
image. The image is formed depending on how much light the camera lets in
.
A P E R T U R E – Aperture controls the amount of light that is let into the sensor.
and how much time it is exposed to the light. This is where the term ‘exposure’
S H U T T E R S P E E D – The shutter speed controls the amount of time the sensor
comes from.
is exposed to that light.
These three settings give you control of the image and allow for endless variables
I S O affects the noise in the picture. This means the higher ISO, the grainier
the image.
A P E R T U R E affects the depth of field and what you have in focus. The wider
“
Automatic lets you take
perfectly average photographs,
. but that is not what you came
the aperture, the less of the image will be in focus.
Your camera's shutter determines how long your sensor is exposed to light.
One vivid analogy that will help you get to grips with exposure is to think of The longer it’s open, the longer the sensor is exposed to the light. A faster*
.
light as water coming through the lens. shutter speed means a shorter exposure time.
I S O – The ISO measures how sensitive the sensor is to the water/light coming
through. This means the lower the ISO, the more of the water/light you will
.
need. Conversely, the higher the ISO, the less water/light needed.
A P E R T U R E – The same applies to aperture. The wider the aperture, the more
.
water/light will get through.
The combination of the three is what allows you to control the look of the image,
the sharpness, definition and depth of field.
As each of these three settings will affect the exposure of your image, you will
have to learn to use all three in conjunction with each other in order achieve the
A reliable setting that will help you avoid little movements and camera shake.
If you go lower to 1/60 or 1/30 then you will need a very steady hand or a tripod.
1/4 (CENTRE)
Here you can see the movement. Because the shutter was open for longer,
This high shutter speed will capture most movement without any motion blur.
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BACK TO CONTENTS BBC MAESTRO 43 AN INTRODUCTION TO PHOTOGRAPHY
“... Manual puts you in the driving seat. There are other settings
on your camera that will give you some level of control, but the
best way to learn is through manual.
The ISO speed determines how sensitive the camera sensor is to the light that You should only increase your ISO if you do not have enough exposure through
reaches it. The higher the ISO, the noisier the image which means the more your chosen aperture and shutter speed settings.
the image will break up and the less clear and detailed the image will become. < ISO 100 : ISO 3200 >
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BACK TO CONTENTS BBC MAESTRO 44 AN INTRODUCTION TO PHOTOGRAPHY
ISO 3200 ISO 100
This high ISO is great in low light but when you zoom in you start to see the T h e lo w e r ISO ha s muc h l ess no i se a nd c a n ha nd l e mo re di gi t a l c ha nges
noise will become more obvious. The higher ISO will also restrict what you can in exposure, contrast, dynamic range and saturation.
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Photographers love to talk of an image that are acceptably in focus. The easiest way to describe depth of
field is the lower your f-stop is, the less you have in focus. The higher it is, the
The focal plane is an imaginary line that runs parallel to where your camera
is pointing. When a point you are focusing on comes into perfect focus, that
means that point is now in your focal plane. So everything within that thin line,
up and down, left and right, will be in focus. Anything outside of the focal plane,
APERTURE
in front or behind, will be out of focus. The depth of field is how much is also
Aperture is the opening in the lens through which the light passes. It increases
in focus outside of the focal plane.
or decreases in diameter to let more or less light into the sensor. It is measured
in f stops and increasing the f stops closes the aperture blades further. So, the
It is an aesthetic choice. Some people love to use the focal length* and focal
higher the f stop, the smaller the aperture and the less light coming in. This
plane to enhance an aspect of the image. For example, when it comes to portrait
impacts the image’s depth of field.
photography, you may want your subject’s eyes in focus but everything else out
It really is all a matter of what you are trying to achieve aesthetically. The techniques
that you are learning for a DSLR can be applied to your smartphone. There are
many smartphone apps that allow you to use the f-stop and control the shutter
speed. They are well worth buying and experimenting as the results can be
excellent.
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This is a very wide aperture which means a very narrow depth of field. In other The in-focus areas of your image will be increasing as your aperture increases.
words, you will have a sharply focused subject and blurred background.
As the aperture increases, more of the image will come into focus. This is a very narrow aperture which means a very wide depth of field. In other
lens* . This will allow you to really see the difference depth of field makes.
As a macro lens has an incredibly narrow depth of field and there is so much
If you are trying to get everything in focus, the best option is to aim your focus
point dead in the middle. This means that the middle of your subject will be in
When you are shooting digitally, there are presets in your editing software
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which will create a sharpening but it is better to take all of the sharpening off
words, you will be able to get a large amount of the image in focus.
Here you can see everything slightly softens apart from what is in the focal
plane* .
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F2.8
. Take your camera off auto if you want to create something unique.
. Learning the manual settings will give you control and free your ability
to be creative.
“
Exposure is controlled by ISO, aperture and shutter speed.
. Aperture controls the amount of light that is let into the sensor.
. Shutter speed controls the amount of time the sensor is exposed to the light.
Take your camera off auto
. As each setting affects your exposure you may have to combine all three if you want to create
something unique.
.
to achieve your look without ruining your exposure.
Each can make creative effects that you may want to incorporate into
.
your image but you need to know how to control them first.
.
Depth of field determines how much of your image is in focus.
the lens and your subject also affects the depth of field. The closer the lens
.
to the subject, the shallower the depth of field.
Understanding how to control the manual settings allows for endless variables
and possibilities.
HOW DO LENSES WORK? Photographers love to talk about lenses and a good quality one is important.
In the most basic terms, a camera is a lens on one side and a digital light sensor Maybe even more so than the quality of camera, so if you have the money to
on the other. spend, invest in a decent lens or two. They can be second hand as long as they’re
in good condition and they can last you for years if you look after them.
ZOOM vs PRIME
There are two types of lenses. These are prime and zoom. Both zoom and
Zooms allow you to change smoothly from a long shot to a close up by varying
the focal length. The advantage of the zoom is that it gives you flexibility and
lets you adjust your shot without having to change lenses. With that flexibility
comes disadvantages. They are often considerably heavier and slower* than
Primes are often faster which refers to having a wider aperture. A wider aperture
allows the lens to focus on the subject but blur the background; an effect known
Prime lenses have a fixed focal length which means you can’t change the angle
of view* you are shooting at without changing lenses. If you want a close up you
are going to have to get closer, but what you lose in flexibility you gain in sharpness,
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body. It is an expensive purchase to get wrong and there are adapters that can
make it work but make sure you have done your research.
Fast Lens* = A lens with a wide aper ture, this is typically anything under f.4.
Slow Lens* = A lens without a wide aperture, they typically open up to a maximum
FOCAL LENGTH
Focal length is the optical distance from where the rays of light converge to
form the sharp image on the front of the lens, to the point where the image
Focal length tells you the angle of the view which means how much of the image
will be captured, and the magnification which means how large the subject will
appear. The longer the focal length, the narrower the angle of view and the
higher the magnification. Conversely, the shorter the focal length, the wider the
200mm – NARROW ANGLE OF VIEW
angle of view and the lower the magnification.
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105mm 24mm
There are several differences between these two images. Most noticeably how Another crucial difference to note is that the shorter focal length distorts
separated the subject looks from the background in the 24mm compared with everything within the frame. This gets more pronounced the closer you physically
the 105mm, where both the subject and the background look quite flat. This means get to the subject. The subject’s face becomes much narrower with a shorter
that the longer the lens the more compressed the foreground and background focal length and becomes wider with the longer focal length.
become.
and on many of today’s advanced smar tphones you can swap between up to three
built-in lenses.
.
MANUAL FOCUS
Focus is essential in all photography but never more so than with portraiture. A camera is made up of a lens and a digital sensor. The lens collects light
.
When you focus a lens manually, the lens shifts its elements until you get perfect from the subject and focuses it onto the sensor to form an image.
sharpness in a particular spot. Manual focus allows you, the photographer, to
There are two types of lenses: zoom and prime. Zoom lenses offer the
ensure the part of the image you want to be in focus, is. It might not always
flexibility to change your focal length without moving but are typically
be the subject you want in focus but unless you have control, the camera will
.
slower than prime lenses
decide. The manual focus controls allow you to separate your subject from the
background. A basic tip for humans is to look for that light in the eye. Prime lenses have a fixed focal length but are often faster and more portable
.
than zoom lenses due to their smaller size.
Focal length is the optical distance between the front of the lens and the
.
of the image.
.
shorter focal lengths often distort the background and subject.
Manual focus allows the photographer to control which part of the image
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.
is in focus.
.
A good quality lens is as important as the camera itself.
.
You can rent lenses or buy them second hand to keep the costs down.
You can also use your Focus magnifier function to magnify the image to make
sure it is in focus. Make sure you do your research and whichever lenses you buy are compatible
This is where the learning truly begins. Get those cameras off auto. It is your
first real opportunity to set your creativity free and start to find out what it
is that makes a photograph speak to you. Using the same subject as before,
work through each of the manual settings to explore the different results each
can give you. There are an endless series of combinations and once you’ve
mastered the basics, they will allow you to push your images into new places
creatively.
A tip: for one session, keep everything else on the same setting and only alter
the aperture. See where that takes you. For the next session; focus on exposure.
“
upon as you learn and grow in your skills and confidence.
A huge advantage to not being on film means you can take as many shots as
What is the most interesting image, the most powerful faces you can capture
By using manual controls
when you and your camera are set free?
you can find that focus,
Compare your results and keep a note of what works for you.
you can separate your subject
Don’t forget to share them with BBC Maestro on social media, tag @BBCMaestro from the background
and @Rankinarchive and remember to use the hashtag #RankinBBCMaestro.
Share your images and creativity to learn and encourage others. and a basic tip for humans
is look for that light in the eye.
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BACK TO CONTENTS BBC MAESTRO 56 AN INTRODUCTION TO PHOTOGRAPHY
11. Introduction To Lighting
“
The word ‘photography’
comes from two Greek words:
photo meaning ‘light’,
and graphos meaning
‘writing’ or ‘painting’.
There are three main different types of lights that photographers use that, when
you learn how to harness them, will unlock new creative powers.
The first is daylight, light that comes from the sun. It varies wildly in brightness,
colour and quality. The light varies with the time of day, giving us different looks
such as blue hour or golden hour* or harsh light during the day or softer light if
it’s overcast.
The second type is flash* . This is quite common among studio photographers.
This is a device you sync with a shutter using a trigger to produce a short burst
of light. It helps freeze the subject you are photographing so you can get a much
sharper image. You can combine both daylight and flash together if you need to
add light to your image.
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continuous lights from tungsten* which is a rich golden glow to daylight which
is a much cooler light. Constant lighting stays on all of the time as opposed to
flash lighting.
The huge advantage of using cameras is that there are no hard and fast rules.
If you like it, then it works. Experimenting with light is the way to learn how to
TA K E A W AY S
. The cost that comes with shooting on film forces you to consider the lighting
of each shot carefully and hones your skills until they are second nature.
. You can study how light functions easily at home right now. So, get started.
EXERCISE
U N D E R S TA N D I N G T H E L I G H T
Find a spherical object (for example; an orange or an apple) and a torch. Begin
with the torch on the top of the object and analyse what it’s doing to the object.
Then move the light to the different positions around the object. Spend at least
30 minutes studying what the light does to the object. Replace the fruit with
human subjects and you will be on your way to learning the basics of lighting.
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This will help you to understand the light and how it shines on objects.
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David Bailey once said, ‘God only created one sun, so why would you want to
use more than one light?’, emphasising the idea that a single light source is all
you need to create an outstanding photograph. This can apply whether you are
THE THREE RULES OF LIGHTING
inside a studio or not, as a window, or even daylight against a wall, can serve
There are three fundamental principles when it comes to lighting that underpin
as a single light source.
each step you will take to light your subject:
.
W H AT Y O U W I L L N E E D
2. The closer the light is to the subject, the greater the illumination, meaning
.
Your camera
the stronger the light.
.
A single light source (e.g. spotlight, flash, table lamp)
3. T h e l a rger t he l i ght so urc e, t he so f t er t he q ua l i t y o f t he l i ght
.
A light stand or tripod
(as it is more dispersed).
.
Reflector or reflective and non-reflective objects (white and black card or paper)
Diffusers
STEPS
1. Your first step is to choose your light source, preferably a direct light. This
could be a flash or a continuous light. If you are at home, a direct table lamp will
also work. Hard lights* like spotlights will produce strong shadows and highlight
textures and shapes in the subject. Direct, hard light sources can be softened
by diffusers to reduce the shadows and create a more natural, flattering effect.
2. Place your light source on a light stand, at a 45-degree angle to your subject
above your camera. If you are using a continuous light source, make sure it is
bright enough to illuminate the face. If you are using a flash, test out your flash
first to set the power to the right level for your desired exposure.
2 . L I G H T D I S TA N C E 3. Position your subject in front of the light source, facing the camera. Make
4. Different light sources have different temperatures. There are white balance*
presets on your camera that are made for each different type of lighting you
will encounter. Set your white balance to auto for now. If you are sticking to one
light source, your camera will adjust itself to the correct setting. Any additional
6. Use a reflector or white surface to create more light on the face and reduce
shadows. Place the reflector between the camera and subject and angle so
that the light will bounce* off the reflector and onto the area of the subject you
want to fill. It’s also good for putting that glint into your subject’s eye. You can
prop it up or use a stand or even the subject themselves to hold it in place.
.
MY TOP TIPS
.
To create more contrast and shadow, use a hard light source like a spotlight.
.
to create a softer effect.
options at different prices. You can also use whatever you have to hand.
.
It’s the end result that matters, not the amount you spend.
Pay attention to how lit your background is. It is an integral part of your
.
image.
Turn off any indoor lights. They will interfere with your main source
and impact your final image. Stick to the ones you can control.
There are a variety of other lighting techniques you can try, especially if you want
to create photos with lots of shadow and contrast. Here is a quick overview of
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BACK TO CONTENTS BBC MAESTRO 61 AN INTRODUCTION TO PHOTOGRAPHY
BACK LIGHTING* (1) BACK LIGHTING (2)
With backlighting, you place a light behind your subject, facing the camera. You can always bounce or use soft light in front of your subject if you want
This creates a halo effect, separating them from the background. It can create to see your subject more clearly.
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KEEP ON LEARNING
face and angled towards it. This creates a small shadow of the nose that This way they have a broad side of their face (the side you can see more of)
and a short side (the side you can see less of). For broad lighting, place the
touches the shadow of the cheek, adding dimensions to the face.
light on the broad side of the face.
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You guessed it, low key lighting is the opposite of high key lighting. The focus here
is to create a dark, moody image with very minimal soft light on your subject.
“The challenge is always
how to use the light
and bend it to your will.
TA K E A W AY S
. Turn off any additional lights in the room and block out natural light*
. You can keep your white balance on auto if you are using a single light source.
. There are many lighting techniques to try. It’s all about experimentation
EXERCISE
Take test shots of each different style you try. Play around with the distance,
angle and intensity of your light. Keep a note of the settings you used on each
shot to compare afterwards. These test shots will be an invaluable tool to refer
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Even if you have a professional studio, it is essential you learn how to effectively T H E F U N D A M E N TA L S
use natural light. When you use natural light creatively it can enhance your Natural light has both advantages and challenges:
storytelling. It is one of the most powerful tools for creating beautiful images
.
A D VA N TA G E S
and there are fundamental principles that will help you harness the ever-changing
It is free and easily found which means expensive equipment
natural light to create arresting portraits. You will always be at the mercy of
is not required.
.
the weather and learning the fundamental rules of natural lighting will help you
adapt and maximise the possibilities. It changes according to season, weather and time of day creating
“
different colours and contrasts within your images which can be used
.
You cannot control natural light, only work with it.
your storytelling. You can’t guarantee your lighting will be consistent when Mother Nature
.
is in charge.
conditions.
When we talk about natural light, we are referring to the light from the sun,
the moon, the stars, firelight or any other natural source as opposed to the
artificial light that comes from lamps or flashes. It can be used indoors via
a window or outdoors and it can create different moods and effects in your
portrait photographs and changes depending on the time of day, the weather
Natural light can be soft and diffused or harsh and directional and, as you learn
how to manipulate the light, it can enhance the mood and feel of your image.
Natural light changes colour depending on the time of day you are shooting. There are three main shifts in light throughout the day and each can be used to
This is called the colour temperature* . your advantage if you have the know-how. Twilight* , golden hour and midday:
“
TWILIGHT
This is the 20 minutes or so before the sun rises and after it sets and is also
This is the period of time just after the sun rises, and before the sun sets,
lighting, we're going to have where the light turns warmer, bathing everything in orange and red tones.
M I D D AY
completely different results. This is when the sun is at its highest point in the sky, creating a hard, direct
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season, the weather and the time of day. The light will be at its most intense
during the midday summer sun which will create dramatic shadows. Cloud cover
will soften the light and in the winter months the sun appears lower in the sky,
QUALITY
Light can be hard, soft or reflected. Although you can’t control the quality of
HARD LIGHT
You will get a hard light under the midday sun. This light often intensifies the
colours, creates dramatic shadows and can make a subject look flat* if used
as a front light.
SOFT LIGHT
A soft light will have the opposite effect to hard light. Soft light is created
naturally when you are shooting outside in cloudy conditions as the clouds
act as a natural diffuser, spreading the daylight and making it less intense.
The gentle shadows created by a soft light can be used to create flattering
portraits.
REFLECTED LIGHT
This is when the natural light is bounced off a light-coloured surface back onto
the subject to create depth. You can use purpose bought reflectors, walls
or cardboard. Whatever works for your budget as long as it gets the job done.
Reflected light spreads the light and creates a soft glow on your subject and can
be used to highlight areas in shadow and highlight the light in your subject’s eyes.
If possible, identify your location before your shoot. You want to make sure you
have somewhere that will provide the quality of light you need for your image.
You will need to consider the position of the sun and any buildings or trees
that might block or reflect the light. If you plan to shoot in a forest, you will be
working with diffused light and may need to bring a reflector to make sure your
INDOORS
When indoors, your natural light source will be a window and there are a few
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Position your subject close to the window.
. Make sure the light is falling on their face, unless you are using the
window as a backlight.
. Change your, and your subject’s angle, distance and position to get
. You can use a reflector to illuminate any areas that are still too dark.
. Turn any additional lights in the room off as they will impact the colour
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.
OUTDOORS
.
Be considerate of your subject, is it too hot or too cold?
If you will be shooting outside all day, be mindful of the moving sun
.
and sunrise and sunset timings.
Use the hard, direct light of a sunny day to emphasise shadows, lines,
.
patterns or textures.
Avoid harsh light and shadows in the midday sun by shooting in the shade.
.
and directional light.
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Be aware that if you use a coloured reflector, it will reflect that colour
back onto your subject. So if you want to match the natural light, use
the correct colour for the correct time of day, white for daylight, gold
.
for golden hour, silver for twilight.
Be aware that too much light reflected back onto your subject will create
Don’t be afraid to take risks. Lighting is subjective and the only way to discover
what works for you is by trial and error. That is where the real learning happens
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TA K E A W AY S
.
.
Natural light is a powerful tool for creating beautiful portraits.
Natural light refers to light from natural sources such as the sun,
.
moon, stars and firelight. It can be used both indoors and outside.
There are four main areas to consider when it comes to natural light:
.
direction, colour, intensity and quality.
.
weather conditions and to harness them to create powerful images.
.
reflectors and diffusers to alter the mood of your image.
advantage.
Have a search online, look through magazines and go to galleries. Find two
or three portraits that you love, ones that show different styles of lighting.
Now try to recreate them. You will need to study those portraits. Check out the
shadows on the noses and the highlights* in the eyes for clues. See how close
“
Soft, overcasting lighting
is brilliant because you can
pretty much shoot anywhere
with it.
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15. Preparation
Preparation is everything in photography. It’s the key to every successful shoot. . Take your camera with you to take test shots with different lenses.
As the old adage goes ‘fail to prepare, prepare to fail’. But what does ‘being
. If you can’t go in person, use online tools to suss out the location.
.
prepared’ really mean?
Charge your batteries ahead of time. You do not want to hold proceedings
One of the essential parts of the job of photographer is problem solving. Most up and potentially miss that one great moment because you didn’t charge
of a professional photographer’s time is actually spent coming up with creative the batteries the night before.
solutions to the bumps in the road that happen all the time.
THE SHOOT
PRE-PRODUCTION
.
First thing…
Ensure you have all the kit you need and that it is all in working order.
.
It can be a challenging job and there are always difficulties to be overcome…
and those difficulties can suck up the time and leave you struggling to get the This includes the lenses you will need and any additional lighting.
shot you want to take. But you can save yourself a lot of time and stress if you
.
.
Make sure your batteries are charged. Bring backups!
.
follow these steps:
Take time to work out what potential issues might arise, from access Dress for the weather if you are outdoors. You don’t want to get caught
to locations and parking your car, to variable weather conditions in the rain with no wet weather cover… for you or your kit. Take additional
and kit malfunctions.
.
wet weather cover for your subject, just in case.
. Work through the issues and devise a plan and solutions in advance,
such as booking parking near to your location, and planning wet weather
Careful planning frees your creative brain to focus on the shot. It allows you to
focus on your subject rather than worrying about your kit not working, lighting
being off, or where the car is parked. All the little things can derail a shoot and
alternative options. could have been sorted beforehand with a bit of thought and planning.
.
When it comes to ideas and concepts, always arrive at the shoot with options.
Get feedback from those test shots and use what you learn. But be open to ideas from other sources. The best shoots are always a collabo-
ration with set designers, stylists, makeup artists and the subject themselves.
Learning from mistakes at this point will save so much time on the day.
the basics are covered. It frees your creativity. That is the sweet spot.
TA K E A W AY S
. You will waste precious shooting time if you don’t pre plan and problem
solve in advance.
. Take test shots before the shoot to see if your ideas and choice of lens
“
Be open to ideas from other people.
. Follow your gut and grab those serendipitous moments when they arise.
EXERCISE
Careful planning frees
your creative brain to focus
Your next task is to create your own shoot check-list. This will be your bible from
here on out. You will be able to return to this check-list before each shoot, it will on the shot. It allows you
give you peace of mind and reassurance that you have everything covered. Save
it somewhere safe. The key to a successful shoot is the preparation and this list to focus on your subject.
will get you on the right track straight away.
© RANKIN
BACK TO CONTENTS BBC MAESTRO 75 AN INTRODUCTION TO PHOTOGRAPHY
16. Visualising Your Idea
Ideas are king in the creative industries. But there is no point having an idea
that simply stays in your head. You want to see your ideas come to life and
often that will mean collaborating with fellow creative talents. The range of
people you can collaborate with is as wide open as your imagination but it is
essential that you are all pulling together for a shared vision.
Heidi North is one of the UK’s top makeup artists; working across the fashion
and music industries. Her first love was Fine Art and she channels her passion
As a makeup artist working with the leading photographers, brands and celebrities
today, Heidi understands the importance of creating a shared vision for the team
Ideas can come from anywhere but are often a collaboration between the client
and Heidi. Her years of experience have created a well of inspiration. Often the
idea begins with a theme and it begins to take form through making a mood board.
Inspiration for your mood board can come from anywhere. The most important
mindset you can have is to stay open and see the possibilities in the world
A visual reference allows you to explain your ideas to someone else as directly
as possible. Often when an idea feels new, it is difficult to convey the concept
with words. Images and drawings allow you to bypass the limitations of words to
create a feel and a mood that often cuts straight through to the heart of the idea.
that will help express your vision for the mood and feel of your project to your . It is important to prepare for your shoot but often the best ideas will happen
Pinterest which has made collating imagery from across the internet quick and
. Feedback is important and strengthens your work.
easy. But they can still be created by hand, cutting out images from magazines,
exhibitions, photos, fabrics, sketches and words and sticking them to a board. . Your model is an important part of the process and should be included in
the ongoing collaboration while you are shooting. The best ideas are always
Whether the board is physical or digital, it will become an essential tool for
communicating your idea and getting others involved on the same page. evolving even during the shoot.
It is important to note that you do not have to shoot what is on the mood board.
. Don’t be scared to experiment and push it as far as you can. This is where you
in different directions. It is all about the experimentation both pre and during . Mood boards are easy to make and an invaluable tool for creating standout
the shoot. Be flexible and open to where the idea will take you and be actively images.
“
seeking feedback on your work. Your subject will play an essential role in the
final image and will often bring many years of experience and ideas to the
shoot that can enhance your idea. That will ensure you are pushing yourself
and learning every step of the way. Ultimately it will help you create unique and
arresting images.
A lot of people think mood
boards are about copying
www.heidinorthmakeupartist.com
an idea... It's a starting point
and should allow you to go
off in different directions.
This exercise allows your imagination to run free. Your next task is to make
a mood board. You can get the scissors and the glue out if you want, you
can use Pinterest or another app/website that lets you create your own mood
board. But you should be as specific as you can be. Your goal is to express the
. Love is complicated
. What is beauty?
. In motion
. Stripped back.
“
Anybody can do a moodboard.
If I can do it on an app,
anyone can do it on an app.
Photography can be incredibly collaborative across every stage of the process. There will be occasions where you will not know who you are photographing in
Your mood board plays an essential role in that collaboration, bringing the team advance. When that happens, you must be prepared to adapt to the situation,
together to ensure everyone is working towards the same vision, whichever area working with your team and your subject towards a reimagined vision. This is
of photography you are working in. when your skills and constant dedication to practising will come to the fore.
The relationships you will have built up with your creative collaborators will
YOUR MODEL allow you to explore alternative options with confidence, knowing what will
Two genres that share many features are por trait photography and beauty work in any given situation. It will give you the confidence to trust your judgement,
photography. Both can involve a huge amount of collaboration across the team; direct your team and create an original image together. A photography shoot is
from the makeup artist to the studio assistants, if you have them. a dynamic environment and your ability to respond creatively is what will make
The model in particular, just like any portrait subject, is essential to the process.
In a beauty shoot, your model will be the canvas on which the idea will be C O M M U N I C AT I O N I S K E Y
brought to life. While in portrait photography, your subject is central to the Challenges can arise when you are working collaboratively. Often a subject will
story the image is telling. have a fixed idea about the way they want to be seen. This can also be true
when you are working towards a brief from a client. Each layer of input can
It is rarely conventional looks that draw a photographer to a subject. It is bring with it further conversations about the ambitions for the final images.
someone’s personality and enthusiasm for the process that really mark out This is where your communication skills will come to the fore, as it is your
a good model or subject. job as the photographer to bring everyone together, working towards a shared
vision.
If you know who your model or subject is in advance, you can plan accordingly.
They will have a h u g e i mp ac t o n th e c h o i ce s yo u w il l m a ke to co n vey t h e Creative collaboration hinges on communication. It is your responsibility as the
nar rative yo u are tel l i n g . Wh i l e yo u mi g h t co m e to t h e s h o o t w a r m e d w it h photographer to ensure that is happening across your team. There are a few
a mood board everyone has fed into; you can’t always transfer that idea directly rules of thumb you can follow to make the process as smooth and productive
.
preparation; the key ingredient of a successful shoot. Your model or subject should play a crucial role in the collaborative process.
. Give constructive feedback throughout the process. Your model’s personality and commitment to the process are much more
. Be open to good ideas; wherever and whomever they may come from.
.
important than looks.
A solid foundation of skills created through constant practice will give you
the confidence to respond creatively in a changing situation and lead
BE BRAVE
.
your team towards a new vision.
There are some photographers who prefer to avoid collaborations because they
.
are unsure of the final results. A prime example of this is the fear of utilising Communication is key to creative collaborations.
.
Respect each team member’s expertise and utilise their skills.
back, natural aesthetic simply because they are just not sure what can be
.
Give and seek honest, constructive feedback.
achieved. They are missing an opportunity that you should embrace. Working
with a makeup ar tist can be an imaginative, creative experience that often Experimentation is not something to be scared of. Enjoy it and see where
produces extraordinary images. it leads you.
Experimenting is half the fun when it comes to makeup, hair and styling. If you
EXERCISE
are nervous, start with a natural look and once you are happy with the image you
have created and you know you’ve got the shot, try something more experimental.
FIND YOUR SQUAD
It is a risk-free opportunity to stretch yourself and discover something new that
The first step in any creative collaboration is to find like-minded people you want
might spark further ideas.
to work with. The people you collaborate with will push you in new, unexpected
directions and you will do the same for them.
Is there anyone you already know who you would be eager to work with? It can
be a friend of a friend or maybe it’s someone in your local area who has been
doing work you admire? Make a list and find their contact details. You don’t
have to approach them yet. But this will ultimately be the beginning of many
fruitful relationships that will provide a rich well of ideas and inspiration as
One of the biggest privileges of being a portrait photographer is the opportunity reputation and lose future clients. You must treat everyone with the respect
it gives you to meet so many different people across all walks of life. The most they deserve and hopefully you will be shown that same respect in return.
important prerequisite for the job is to possess a passion for people and for find-
ing that unique aspect of who they truly are. Each person is an original and you S AV E T H E D AY
should adapt your approach to ensure you get the best out of the collaboration. Occasionally, you will find yourself in a situation where your subject is unhappy
or upset and you’ve got to deal with that. While this is, hopefully, not your fault;
RESPECT as the photographer it is your responsibility to find a way to make it work and
David Bowie died at the age of 69. He only had just over twenty-five thousand produce a brilliant portrait at the end of the day. You’ve got to take those problems
and turn them into solutions so that the person has given you something and
days here with us and he spent one of those days having his photograph taken
walks away talking about you positively after the shoot.
by me. When you are taking a portrait, you have to remember that out of all the
days in their life, they are giving one to you. You both have to respect that fact.
PRECONCEPTIONS
When you have that mutual respect, you can create great things together.
When you are commissioned to take a photograph, you are looking for an idea
before you walk into the room with the subject. But even with a head full of
DEALING WITH MOODS
ideas, it is far more important that you are ready and willing to be mailable and
However, it doesn’t always work like that. Sometimes people arrive in a bad
pivot because sometimes people surprise you. When I photographed Jay Kay
mood. The best attitude to adopt is one of compassion. You never know what
from Jamiroquai, I thought he was going to be an idiot. I was wrong. He turned
personal challenges each of us are dealing with. You should never judge people
out to be the most charming man I’d ever met. I realised it was a public persona
based on what they are like in one single moment.
that the media had perpetuated. If I was going to take a great picture of him
I would need to show what I saw objectively in the moment and not what the
As photographers, our job is to try and get them into a place where they feel
media had placed on him.
comfortable to give us something. By hook or by crook you have to try and
make it work.
GE T TING THE BEST SHOT
It is important to make your subject feel comfortable. You want them to feel
Another essential part of the process is known as ‘The Circle of Trust’. What and look good but, above all else, you want to take the best shot you possibly
happens on set should stay on set. You should never spread rumours and gossip can of them. That can mean pushing someone out of their comfor t zone,
after the shoot. That is the quickest and most efficient way to destroy your own including yourself.
create the right atmosphere for that to happen. You can do that in lots of different
ways, from using your subject’s favourite music to simply making sure you
are communicating and responding to their individual needs. Ask your subject
questions and then really listen to the answers. Building this rapport is essential
“
What our job is, as photographers,
is to try and get them into a place
where they feel comfortable to
and it always pays off in the end photograph. Trust and communication is
but if the person is very different from the idea you’ve got; you’ve got to be
You have to try and make it work.
able to let it go. You can’t hang on to those ideas. If you’re a photographer
who can’t adapt to the changing situation then you will find that, sometimes,
your sessions won’t go right. That’s why you have to understand many different
photography techniques. It will give you a solid foundation to draw upon when TA K E A W AY S
PERSISTENCE IS KEY Show compassion for your subject, even when they are not forthcoming
.
When you first start out as a photographer one of the things you have to realise or in a bad mood. Your end goal is to create a compelling portrait.
is that you’ve got to have a bit of front, you’ve got to be confident, you’ve got to
You should maintain professional confidentiality both during and after
be cheeky, you’ve got to be persistent. ‘No’ and doors slamming cannot put you
.
the shoot.
off. You’ve got to keep pushing and pushing and eventually that one door will
open. Of course, when you get that opportunity, don’t mess it up. Create an atmosphere that allows your subject to open up and respond
.
to the process.
.
and be open to being surprised.
If you don’t ask, you don’t get. Develop a confident persona and go ask
G I L E S D U L E Y A N D T H E I M P O RTA N C E O F C O N N E C T I O N
As a triple amputee working in conflict zones, Giles has a unique set of challenges
. Everyone is different and you will find your own way of working with your
.
contributors.
a n d a d v a n t a g e s to w o r k w i t h w h e n p h o to g ra p h i n g p e o p l e . W h e t h e r h e i s
There is a spectrum of photography running from visionary to reactionary
photographing celebrities or covering conflicts; Giles is a portrait photographer
.
and everyone lies somewhere between the two.
first and foremost. His passion will always be people and that is what he channels
into his work. Time spent getting to know your subject will result in a much more
.
interesting image.
For Giles, there are two types of photographer; the reactionary and the visionary.
Sometimes you have to leave your camera in the bag and just listen.
The visionary includes photographers like Nick Knight, people who have an idea
“
and mould their model into their vision. Giles is a reactionary photographer. This
means he reacts to the person or scene in front of his camera and captures that
his subject. His work always starts with the relationship with the person in front
taking of the shot is the simple part. It is the time spent investing in getting
images.
Giles has found a unique way of connecting with his subjects, through food.
hopefully will be given back.
Giles often cooks and then eats a meal with the people he wants to capture on
camera. This allows him to build relationships and encourages his subjects to
see him not just as a photographer there to take something from them but as
Giles has created a six-par t documentary series with Vice TV featuring his
Ken Kamara always asks for permission when creating a portrait. It is essential
that the photographer is doing little more than speaking at the subject.
“
Having an idea before you go
into a session is so important,
but if the person is very different
You are the conduit between the subject and the audience. As the photographer
you need to get your subject to a place where they are comfortable with you
from the idea you've got,
and will work with you to create a portrait. you've got to be able to let it go.
You can't hang onto those ideas.
TA K E A W AY S EXERCISE
As a photographer, you should never be quick to judge your subject. Rather, you
.
a conversation.
should always be curious to find out their story. The best portrait photographers
You are not the final viewer of the portrait; you are a conduit between understand that a photograph is a dialogue between you and your subject. It is
.
the subject and the audience. this ability to connect to each person and see beyond the facade we all put up
that will help you create a memorable, insightful portrait. It is a skill that may
You can learn so much from your subjects if you are willing to listen.
come naturally for a few people but most of us need to practise.
This exercise is a tale of two por traits. Find a willing subject and take their
photograph. Now sit down, grab a cuppa and have a chat. It can be in the form
Take their portrait again. Can you see the difference between the two images?
It is always exciting when you are shooting somebody’s portrait, whether you DIRECTING YOUR SUBJECT
are at home, on location or even in your own professional studio. The buzz and There are lots of different ways to make your subject feel comfortable and help
anticipation never disappear. Wherever you are working, it is important to have them feel that they can work with the camera. One option is to give your subject
done all your preparation in advance and be poised and ready to get to work as something to lean on, like a table or the back of a chair. This helps by creating
soon as your subject arrives. a distance between the person and the camera. It also frees the subject from
having to worry about where they put their hands and creates a dynamic that
photographer will have a different idea of which approach is the most beneficial
for their own way of working. The assumption is often that conversation is between your subject and you as
the photographer, but the camera is what they are emoting too. Whoever you are
GOOD TO GO working with, encourage them to picture the lens as a window and they are talking
The studio should be set up and ready to go as soon as your subject arrives. to somebody they like through that window. Photography is a very intimate thing
The basic set-up in the studio includes a soft light and two boards on either between the subject and the person looking at the photograph. This helps to
side of the subject to stop any outside light impacting the light on the subject’s create that intimacy for the viewer.
face. The only light source that should be in the space are the ones you are
intending to use for the shoot. Direct your subject as you go and encourage them to try different poses and
movements. Be open to their ideas. The key is to create a playful, fun atmosphere
concentrate and to make sure they don’t feel overwhelmed by the process. Very
few people truly like being in front of the camera and if you keep that in mind You are asking your subject to show you a part of themselves. That can be
and ensure you put your subject at ease then you will get far better results. You showing how they are feeling in that moment, a hidden side of their character
should be aiming to create an environment where the subject can forget all the or a physical attribute that encapsulates something of who they are deep down.
technical aspects and focus on the shoot. Encourage your subject to try to explore different moods and emotions.
These images show the variety of photographs taken in the lesson where
Rankin and his subject ‘Roxxxan’ collaborate together and build a relationship
where Roxxxan becomes open in front of the camera so Rankin is able to take
.
A key aspect of the process is showing the subject the shots you are taking.
Not everyone does this but a collaborative approach often brings about the You should be set up and ready to go before your subject arrives.
best results and fosters good working relationships that could mean repeat
As you look through the images you have shot with your subject, you can select
the best images and use the post-production tools on the software to edit the
. A collaborative approach will bring about the best results and will foster
it a collaboration and not take the feedback personally. The aim is to create the
. Everyone has their own insecurities and as a photographer, it is important
.
best image possible and you are on the same team.
The aim of your shoot is to create memorable portraits that capture something
INSECURITIES unique and unseen.
“
There are so many shy people out there and most people will find it difficult and
leaders, who have spent a lifetime being photographed, can shy away from the
lens. Every single person has their own insecurities and as a photographer you
been photographed time and again. But often there will be a completely different
or back of a chair helps
and unseen side of that person. The challenge is for you to draw that out and create
The success of a good portrait hinges on the relationship you form with your Some photographers do view each shot on a monitor as they take it, often in
subject. If your relationship is built on trust, then your subject will be much front of their team. They then give the subject feedback in that environment. This
more open to trying new approaches. This will mean they will be more willing can feel much more personal and will make the subject feel self-conscious at
to show you a side of themselves to which other photographers may not have best, potentially causing them to freeze completely.
been privy. It’s these relationships that will often be the most fruitful and will
Giving your subject specific, clear direction builds their confidence. In a studio
E M PAT H Y situation, your subject will be aware of the team in the room and their mind will
Even fruitful collaborations can have their ups and downs. Everyone finds it often be wondering what the team is thinking. This will take them out of the
challenging to be in front of the lens and understanding that perspective will moment. To avoid that occurring, you will have to work hard to take ownership
make you more empathetic as a photographer. There is a huge pressure to of the shoot and direct your subject in a way that makes it clear what the goal is,
perform for the camera, but if you can put your subject at ease and remove giving them clear direction to respond to. It is important to create an environment
some of the questions their inner dialogue is constantly circling through, then where your subject feels free to be vulnerable without any repercussions.
you will free them up to respond in the moment. As the photographer, you will
often spot the parts of your subject’s personality, appearance or inner world T H E S P I R I T O F C O L L A B O R AT I O N
that they seem to be holding back. Often, it is drawing those aspects out that Establishing the ethos of collaboration is essential because it clearly indicates
will produce an image that will even surprise the subject themselves. that you will both be bringing a part of yourselves to the process. Communication
is always key and it is essential to ask questions and truly listen to the response.
INSPIRING CONFIDENCE There is a real arrogance to assume that your vision will be shared by everyone
As the photographer, your confidence can inspire confidence in your subject. without communicating your ideas and listening to your subject.
direction and an understanding of what will work on camera, will reassure the It can be a huge advantage to look at the images you have created together
subject that you have a clear vision. Being able to respond to each other, making throughout the shoot. Some photographers are reluctant to show their work.
corrections and adjustments in the moment, rather than constantly viewing each Your subject will always be nervous about the way they are coming across and
shot, keeps the momentum going. It allows for creativity to move forward rather if the shoot is going well. But keeping them in the dark will only breed fear and
than a stop/start experience that can often be unproductive and break the flow. make them more self-conscious. As your subject retreats into their own
will be less able to respond to your direction. Asking your subject what they do If you are going to meet someone from social media in real life then follow
.
and do not like and welcoming their feedback will build the trust between you. sensible precautions for your own safety:
Some photographers don’t do this. Often it comes from their own insecurities
.
Check out the photographer’s portfolio
and fear of criticism. While this is understandable, you are asking your subject
.
to be vulnerable and if you reciprocate with your own vulnerability, so much Ask for references from previous subjects
more can be achieved.
Take someone with you to the shoot
FINDING YOUR SUBJECTS If finding subjects through social media is not the approach for you, then you can
If you are looking for subjects to photograph, websites and apps like Instagram use the more traditional option of going through agencies, websites and forums
are an ideal source. When you approach people make sure your profile shows where budding photographers can find people who want to be photographed.
an accurate representation of your work and who you are as a photographer.
This is a highly creative industry and many of the people you are most drawn ALL PEOPLE ARE DIFFERENT PEOPLE
to photograph will also be creative and will respond to the opportunity for new One of the most essential qualities a photographer can have is an inquisitive
experiences and to meet new people. Ideally this will evolve into a professional
nature and a fascination with people. If you are interested in human beings, you
relationship where you can learn and grow together.
ask a lot of questions. You must also be aware of the impact you are having on
your subject and adjust your approach accordingly if they seem withdrawn or
If you chose to go down the route of contacting someone through social media,
overwhelmed. Even the most famous and beautiful celebrities can be nervous and
it is important to be honest and avoid any hint of impropriety. Don’t be a creep.
lack confidence. It’s important to take each person as they are and respond in
Your portfolio should speak for you and show that you are contacting someone
the moment. Each subject’s life varies greatly and they come to the shoot with
for the right reasons. For example, you could send examples of your work or
a lifetime of experiences that might colour how they respond in the moment.
even an idea you believe this potential subject would be perfect for. The beginning
Often an insightful portrait can build your subject’s confidence and give them
of a collaborative relationship between the subject and the photographer will
often come down to both of you trusting your instincts. Many people understand a sense of power in who they are. This is a dichotomy of photography; it has
how hard it is to put yourself out there and make yourself vulnerable to rejection. both the power to build confidence up and to rip it down.
If you treat everyone with respect, hopefully that same consideration will be
returned to you.
The camera is a microscope and it is essential for each photographer to put Collaborating with your subject will help them feel more comfortable
themselves into the subject’s shoes and stand in front of the lens themselves to during the shoot.
truly understand how scrutinised and picked apart the experience can make you
feel. So many factors will come into play during a shoot; from how the subject’s
. Showing your subject the pictures as you go will help them understand
.
day has started to personal challenges they may be facing. It is important to
maintain a professionalism and circle of trust. You should not be gossiping Understand the legal issues and rights issues of taking images. Ensure
about what has happened on set. It is important not to be judgemental, it is you have a release form on hand and make sure everyone understands
much better to remain curious. the implications of what they are signing.
ROLL WITH IT
Collaboration is the lifeblood of the shoot but you must always remain open to the TA K E A W AY S
possibilities of change. Every single person is different and every single set up for
the shoot will be different. You need a reason for taking each photograph and an . A good portrait requires a strong level of trust between the subject
.
and the photographer.
understanding of what you are trying to achieve. It is not always about capturing
.
Clear, confident direction will help your subject trust in your vision.
particular, you want to make the moment happen. You can prep extensively but
A good portrait photographer will draw out aspects of the subject’s personality,
you must be prepared to roll with whatever happens on the shoot.
appearance or inner world that they normally hold back to create an image
.
that will surprise the subject.
If you create a picture with someone, they are giving something to you and you
should respect that. There is so much emotion in a portrait and if your subject Establishing a collaborative ethos will allow the subject to open up during
.
loves it they will be proud of it. Hopefully that will mean that person will want the shoot.
.
spirit.
Websites and apps like Instagram are an ideal source to find subjects
.
to photograph.
.
Take your safety seriously and follow your instincts.
Be inquisitive.
Now it’s your turn. Remember that mood board, that feeling you wanted to create?
Find someone, maybe someone you know well, and create that image, collaborating
with your subject and drawing something out of them that feels unique to them
This is a hard challenge. So take your time, plan your shoot and then go for it.
Don’t forget to share them with BBC Maestro on social media, tag @BBCMaestro
“
I really believe that if you're
going to photograph people,
that you should get in front
of a camera. It reminds you
how uncomfortable it can be
to be in front of the camera.
© RANKIN
BACK TO CONTENTS BBC MAESTRO 93 AN INTRODUCTION TO PHOTOGRAPHY
23. Post-Production
close to perfect as you can when taking the shot. But there are tools at your Different light sources emit different temperatures. This impacts the overall
disposal that allow you to correct any issues that you spot after the shoot. colour of your image and especially affects the skin tones. You generally want
the skin tones to look as natural and close to real life as possible or sometimes
T h i s i s w h e r e y o u c ra f t y o u r i m a g e s . A s y o u b e c o m e m o r e p r o fe s s i o n a l , you might want the opposite for a more creative look. Colour temperature is
it’s essential to deliver the highest quality images you can to your clients. That the first step to achieving it. You can easily adjust the colour temperature and
is what gets you a great reputation and return commissions. the colour tint by using the sliders to get a result that feels right to you. If you
need to make more subtle and specific changes to skin tones, then experiment
The re are lo ts o f s o ftware o p ti o n s, i n c l u din g Ca p t u re On e , L i g h t ro o m a n d with the HSL slides (hue, saturation and luminance).
Photoshop. While some of the settings might vary slightly, the principles are
EXPOSURE
universal.
How does your exposure look? Did you get it right on the shoot? Are any of the
details lost? Apart from simply using your eye, you can check the histogram*
IMPORT
at the top of the tools bar to see where the peaks are. The histogram is a graph
Shooting in RAW* rather than JPEG* is best for post-production as RAW can
that shows the tonal distribution of an image. It lets you see, at a glance, where
capture so more information, meaning more detail can be brought out and
the brightest spots and darkest shadows are. This tells you if your image is
manipulated in post-production.
over or under exposed.
Import the images from your camera or memory card into your editing software.
You can adjust the exposure and contrast with the sliders. If you want to go
You should create a folder structure to organise your images. Digital photography
further and have more control, you can play with the Dynamic Range sliders,
allows you to take many frames and a well organised system will make the
highlights, shadows, whites and blacks to affect the light and the dark parts
images easy to access. Review your images and select the ones you want to
individually. This can be great for changing the mood of a photograph. It can
edit further.
be used to really bring out the details of the dark or light parts of your image
without losing any detail in the other areas. Check the histogram to make sure
Use the crop, rotate and straighten tools to sort out your composition. You
you’re not going too far in either direction.
want to get the overall balance of the image right. If you aren’t happy with the
.
S AT U R AT I O N
.
Your vibrance slider is a more subtle tool compared to saturation. It allows you Post-production is an essential part of a photographer’s craft.
to increase the saturation of the more muted colours in the image. This can
Photographers should aim for the perfect shot as post-production tools
enhance the image and make it a more eye-catching shot but without making
.
are there for subtle corrections and changes.
the strongest colours overpowering. For specific colour controls, HSL, hue and
saturation will all work best. Shoot in RAW to give you the most amount of detail to work with. Delivering
.
high-quality images is important for building a reputation with clients.
Your software can do so much more but these are basic steps and functions every
.
Experiment with the tools to see which editing style you prefer.
photographer uses. They give you such a wide range of creative possibilities and
Export images in an appropriate file format and quality for the intended
will help your work stand out from the crowd.
destination.
EXPORT
Once you are satisfied with your final image, your next step is to deliver it. That
EXERCISE
could be to your client, onto social media or having the final image printed. It is
essential to establish what the final delivery requirements are and to ensure that
Being organised is an essential part of your role as a professional photographer.
is what you adhere to if you want to see return business. Attention to detail and a reliable workflow will ensure all your clients see your
best side. For this exercise, create a series of folders for your work on your
Should you choose, you can also add a watermark to the image to protect from computer or hard drive. This is where you will keep all your work, both the images
any unauthorised use. You can also add a copyright notice in the metadata. you are currently working on and your archives. You will have to decide the best
Finally, choose a delivery method that works best for your client. It’s all about structure for the folders and the naming convention you are going to use. This
making a smooth process for you and your client. crucial part of your work will help set you up for success.
Yo u ’ v e g o t y o u r s h o t a n d y o u t h i n k i t ’s a k e e p e r b u t t h e n e x t s t e p m a r k s Of course, maybe you will want to create effects that are deliberately unreal
professionals out from hobbyists. There is still work to be done and the world and that is where you can push your creative retouching skills to the max.
The term ‘retouching’ often conjures a false idea of what actually goes on in not always possible. On occasion, your focus will be trained on the lighting,
photographic post-production. People outside the industry often use ‘retouching’ the makeup or directing the subject. There will always be a huge variety of
and ‘air-brushing’ interchangeably but that comes from the overuse of technology challenges that arise during a shoot and each one runs the risk of diverting
to alter models and subjects in images beyond recognition. your attention. You might easily miss something that you will later want to
Today, creative retouching is much more focused on subtle corrections that remedied in post-production once you have learned what can be achieved with
will enhance the narrative of the image and will respect the integrity of both the the technology.
Before the advent of digital technology, all post-production took place in the
While this does involve making alterations to the image, you should always darkroom. All the effects that can be achieved at the click of a cursor today were
u n d e r s t a n d w h y y o u a r e m a k i n g t h o s e a l t e ra t i o n s . I t i s i m p o r t a n t n o t to done by hand. The results were just as effective but, unlike digital post-production,
fundamentally alter the pixels in the image. For example, if an accidental side those results couldn’t be undone.
effect of the lighting used during the shoot has been to cast a shadow that creates
the illusion of bags under your subject’s eyes, you can take those shadows away RAW
in post-production. This is a much more subtle process than using a pre-set Shooting in RAW will give you the maximum possibilities in post-production.
filter where the dark skin is replaced with another part of the skin on the face. A RAW file is the uncompressed, unprocessed image captured by a digital camera.
The skill of advanced post-production is to create a lighter curve that will subtly The file size is very large and it captures a high level of detail. It is referred
lighten the shadow, reducing the appearance of the dark circle. It has the same to as ‘lossless’ which means it will allow you to compress the file without
effect as moving the light in the studio. compromising on quality. This makes it the ideal format for post-production.
* P L E A S E R E F E R T O T H E G L O S S A R Y S E C T I O N @ PA G E 1 3 0
or Lightroom to enhance the exposure, contrast, colour, and saturation and now Retouching can make subtle changes that improve the image and enhance the
wish to bring into Photoshop for some creative retouching. We recommend narrative behind the photograph. It allows you as the photographer to focus on
bringing in the original RAW file rather than the exported file from Capture One taking the image, freeing you up from the worry that each aspect must be perfect.
or Lightroom with all your changes. This is so you still have all the information This allows creativity to be the driving force rather than technical perfection. It
from the RAW file making it easier and more susceptible to the retouching process. can also be an incredibly positive way of moving the art and skill of photography
Photoshop, using the capture program as a guide. techniques like solarisation* which would be much more challenging by hand.
The software allows you to do an endless combination of effects and the only BEST PRACTICE
way to truly discover what works for your own images is through experimentation. The secret to good retouching is to make subtle changes so the viewer of the
photograph won’t notice that anything has been digitally altered at all. But if you
RETOUCHING ON TRIAL do want to create an image that harnesses the creative power of retouching
The digital darkroom is an incredibly valuable tool with endless possibilities then plan it out beforehand. If you are working with a retoucher then have
but that can be overwhelming and can be used in ways that are often counter a conversation in advance to find out what might be possible and to shoot with
to the goals of true portrait photography. It can be a controversial topic. creative post-production in mind. That is often the key to creating a successful,
Many amateurs and newcomers are tempted to push the retouching process too
far. With the rapid rise of mobile phones and the dominance of social media;
people are often using filters to create unreal images that are not true to life and * P L E A S E R E F E R T O T H E G L O S S A R Y S E C T I O N @ PA G E 1 3 0
will always be to overuse these tools but the goal should be to harness them in
has been added to draw the viewer’s eye to the make-up. Definition has been
added to the eyes by darkening the shadows and sharpening the lips.
.
and offers unique opportunities to enhance your vision.
.
and can enhance the narrative of the image.
The digital darkroom allows you to make changes that were previously
.
done by hand.
.
changes in post-production.
The only way to really learn the software and what its possibilities
.
and limits are, is through practice and experimentation.
“
.
and not to fundamentally alter an image.
you can see that all over social media. Take one of your images and see just
of view it’s just a subtle how far you can push an image, how unreal you can make it? It is only when you
discover the limits of what can be done and what detracts from the narrative
rather than enhances it, that you will discover what works for you.
Do you have your smartphone to hand? Grab it and snap a selfie right now.
Have a good long look at it. Be honest. Does it reveal something, anything,
about you?
The answer is probably ‘nothing’. The selfie is all about concealing the things
that make you unique. It’s about fitting in with the crowd, putting a mask firmly
in place and presenting a version of yourself to the world that is not you.
But the tool of the selfie can be turned to the much more revealing self-portrait.
your creative powers and your inner world; if you are brave enough. You have
the same.
Ev e r y b o d y i s i n s e c u r e a b o u t s o m e a s p e c t o f t h e i r p h y s i c a l i t y a n d t a k i n g
a s e l f - p o r t ra i t r e m i n d s y o u to b e e m p a t h e t i c to w a r d s t h e p e r s o n y o u a r e
photographing. It reminds you what it is like to be on the other side of the camera
© RANKIN
BACK TO CONTENTS BBC MAESTRO 100 AN INTRODUCTION TO PHOTOGRAPHY
W H AT Y O U W I L L N E E D . Capture the highest quality image you can, which will usually be a RAW file.
This will give you far greater flexibility in post-production.
. .
ESSENTIAL:
.
Your smartphone Mark your spot with tape to allow you to move back and forth easily and
. .
A cloth to clean the lens
Be aware of your background and any props you use. What is the story you are
.
A light source
telling? Remember, every single aspect of the portrait should be deliberate
.
Inspiration
and in service to the narrative.
Courage
. Trust your gut and your eye when you feel you have the shot. Instinct will
play a huge role in your work and this is where experience comes to the fore.
.
OPTIONAL:
P O S T- P R O D U C T I O N
.
A friend to help
As the photographer, you will always be first to focus on the areas you feel
.
A tripod or phone stand could be improved. No image is ever perfect and you are often your own worst
critic. Post-production is an essential stage of the process and you will be able
.
A remote trigger
to correct many of the issues at this stage. But perfection isn’t the aim here.
Props
The most important thing is that your image is impactful and memorable.
.
GETTING DOWN TO BUSINESS What is incredible about digital photography in general is that you have a mini
Come up with the idea and think it through. As with any other shoot, it is darkroom in your computer. Today, most smartphones have very similar technology
to professional editing software already built in and you can buy apps that will
.
the time that you put into preparation that will ultimately make it a success.
open up the possibilities even further and allow you to take even greater control.
Use the outward facing lenses on your camera as they are much higher
Most smar tphones do have presets or filters. It can feel like presets are the
.
quality. Keep the camera still.
obvious choice for a camera phone image; but with all these tools at your disposal,
.
Use the burst option to take lots of shots without having to go back and forth.
take control and see what can really be done. By avoiding the filters and exploring
Set the timer or use a remote trigger. Some phones allow you to control the different controls available, you will be able to create images that are very
the timer with voice or hand signals. similar to any that a professional would create.
Right now you can take an excellent picture using your smartphone. You have
learned the technical skills. But it is the concept behind the picture and what the
picture looks like in the end that are the most important things. All of the skills
that you are learning are simply in aid of being able to take the best picture you
possibly can.
“It's an opportunity to explore
your creative powers and your
inner world, if you're brave
A N I N T I M AT E E X P E R I E N C E
enough...
As with all photography, it will ultimately be the audience who will interpret the
image for themselves. Photographs are intimate. When people look at them, they
TA K E A W AY S
.
are looking at them on a one-on-one level. It’s not like watching the TV or a film
.
which you do with other people and then discuss. When you look at a photograph, Selfies are not self-portraits.
it’s you and the photograph. It’s really impor tant that the audience has that
A self-portrait reveals your inner world and requires you to be vulnerable
relationship with the photograph and they can reflect or project their own
.
and honest.
interpretation onto the image.
It is important to be your own subject because it reminds you how awkward
.
it is to be in front of the lens.
A LEARNING CURVE
There are many reasons why self-portraiture is such a useful genre; from helping
.
Preparation is essential for a self-portrait shoot.
you hone your skills and allowing you to experiment without the added pressure
.
Clean your lens.
of a subject to opening up new avenues for storytelling and introspection.
Post-production will allow you to fix many of the issues that come up
.
It has always been a popular genre. There have been many notable self-portraits but the goal is not perfection.
.
as well as hone your storytelling.
without thought or planning. Use them as inspiration for your own practice.
Photographs are an intimate experience and each person will interpret
The camera phone in your hand has a huge capacity to alter, perfect and hone
your images.
Your next exercise is to take a self-portrait, the most revealing one you can,
with your smartphone. One that shows the world who you are, the person you
Be vulnerable.
“
Using digital, what's incredible
is that it's like having a mini
darkroom in your computer.
Then pick your best shot and use the powers of your smar tphone’s grading
abilities to enhance the image. Don’t forget to play with it and explore the
Now put that against your all-time best ever selfie from before. Post them on
social media and see what the response is. Don’t forget to tag @BBCMaestro
As more and more of us gain easy access to rapidly advancing technology, the
array of people both in front and behind the camera has diversified. But that is
often just an illusion. Creating a truly diverse industry must be a priority if everyone
driving force that push the change forward, ensuring the art form continues to
evolve.
I F Y O U S E E I T, Y O U C A N B E I T
issue up to his lecturers and ask why no Black photographers featured on the
course. The response was often to tell him to do the research for himself but
that default answer was a side step to avoid the real issue at hand. One way to
bring photographers of colour into the discussion, both as artists and students,
students can explore the unique take each has on the world. Exposing students
to different points of view will allow inspiration to come from a vast variety of
influences.
Ken believes that there is a more open dialogue happening today but that progress
has been carving his own career path since he first picked up a camera, striving
to inspire other photographers of colour to forge their own way in the industry.
As a photographer, you can choose where to focus your lens, deciding which Lighting is an essential tool for all photographers. It is easy to get it wrong and
stories you want to tell and how you want to tell them. You have the power to tell you can light badly for any colour of skin. As Ken says, not all keys fit the same
new narratives about the world, as seen through your lens. It is an opportunity keyhole and not all lighting will work for all skin tones. It is important to light for
to use your skills to amplify the unheard voices and highlight underrepresented the subject in front of you and focus on creating an image that is accurate and
communities and issues. Ken sees himself as a conduit through which his fair. The work you put into studying your subject and lighting accordingly will pay
subjects can tell their own stories. It is important to do your own research into off in a final image that will be full of life and a true representation of the person
any subject you are covering and to make conscious decisions about the way in in front of your lens. Realising that every single person should be treated as an
which you are representing a person, a group or a subject. individual, worthy of being portrayed fairly is the first requirement of the job.
Does your subject’s skin look the same in the photograph as it does in real life?
them fairly and accurately when you take a photograph. It is essential that you FEEDBACK
understand the narrative you are presenting and each creative choice is made It is important your subject feels comfortable with the images. Often there can
mindfully. You must be aware of the context in which the image was taken, be many people heaping praise on the subject and the image. This can make
where it will be viewed and the impact it could have. it a very difficult environment to speak out in if the subject is unhappy about
the way they have been captured on camera. It is essential to open up the
INHERENT BIAS conversation and encourage people to speak up when they are uncomfortable
As a human being, a multitude of biases have been baked into us from birth. with the image, to really listen and take their opinion and lived experiences into
But we can become aware of those biases and challenge them through each account.
step of the creative process. That is where change really starts to happen.
Each choice, from deciding to take the photograph in the first place to the final
in which you are responding to the subject and how that is impacting on your
creative practice. Each photographer must be conscious of the way their own
. There needs to be much greater diversity both behind and in front of the lens
as a photographer.
voices.
“
Photographers can be a conduit to allow others to tell their own stories.
and accurately.
My discussion is about . All humans have biases but realising that and constantly challenging them
the unheard voices, of which . You can light badly for any skin tone.
I am one of many. If I have . One size does not fit all when it comes to lighting. Light for the person
in front of your camera and adjust until their skin tone looks true to life
voice, then I will try to do it . Create an environment where your subject feels comfortable giving feedback.
with my skillset.
© KEN KAMARA
the world around us, honestly, truthfully and in all our glory and complexity.
So many people feel invisible, erased by our society and for so many reasons,
through race, age, disability, sexuality, gender. Can you use your camera to help
“
When you take a photograph,
your responsibility is to
yourself, the person you're
photographing and your
audience.
© RANKIN
BACK TO CONTENTS BBC MAESTRO 107 AN INTRODUCTION TO PHOTOGRAPHY
29. Getting Out Of Your
Comfort Zone
Giles Duley began his photographic career in fashion and music photography.
While he enjoyed the work, he was drawn to a different path that would push
him out of his comfort zone. He has now been working in conflict zones around
the world for over 20 years. As a triple amputee, there are a lot of challenges
that he faces but he has continued to push himself out of his comfort zone to
test and expand his skills as a photographer; telling the stories of some of the
A F G H A N I S TA N
W h i l e G i l e s w a s e m b e d d e d w i t h t h e U S A r m y ’s 1 0 1 s t A i r b o r n e D i v i s i o n i n
his body battled to survive, his mind planned portrait photoshoots with all the
people he one day hoped to photograph. The prognosis was bad and his family
When the doctors told Giles that he would never walk again and would be
dependent on others for the rest of his life, he felt like his life was over. But
he always knew that being a photographer was at the very core of his identity
and his desire to be back behind his lens was the driving force in his long road
to recovery. Giles had 37 operations and spent over a year in hospital. During
Giles’ first mission on getting out of hospital was to take photographs once G o to p l a c e s t h a t a r e n o t i n t h e n e w s . W i t h i n a w e e k o f t h e i n v a s i o n
again. He had devised his new method for taking photographs in his head and o f Uk ra i ne, t here were a ro und 200 0 pho to gra pher s regi st ered i n t he
he was eager to see if it would work. He knew what his limitations would now co u n t r y. Yo u need to go to t he pl a c es where no bo dy el se i s repo r t i ng
from and that is where you will find the stories nobody else is covering.
be and found a way to incorporate them into his new practice. Giles knew he
could no longer move quickly and that would make changing angles almost
impossible.
. You don’t need to go straight to the front line of a conflict. Many emerging
photographers believe that is the only way to get the image that will make
their name. The risks are high and you should focus on learning how to
On a technical level, Giles now shoots at eye level. He researches the location
work in those environments first and build up from there.
.
and plans where he should position himself to capture the best shot. This may
take several days of research but it is time well spent. He used a fixed focus and Your photographs don’t need to be reverential and serious. Tell the truth
works with film; often with a medium format camera on a tripod. He believes that of the situation as you find it and show the lives of the people as you see it.
.
the adaptations he made have ultimately enhanced his creativity in other areas.
Telling the stories of the people you meet through the photographs you
take of them can move the audience and create lasting change.
A TRUE CONNECTION
Giles realised his real power came from his connection with people and his
experience and injuries would allow the people he photographed, who had often
. As humans, we can all relate to our fellow humans and telling the human
story of conflict can have a huge impact by getting your work in front of
themselves faced great physical and mental trauma through conflict, to connect
the right audience.
to him on a new, much deeper level. They shared something in common and
that bond would be the basis of incredibly moving and piercing portraits and
documentary work.
. If you are shooting in an area of conflict, be aware of the narrative you are
telling about the people you are photographing as this will create a potentially
lasting impact on the way a country is seen after the conflict ends.
.
Before his injuries, Giles had always felt guilty when he photographed survivors
of global conflicts. While he knew he was there for the right reasons before, Returning to photograph the same people over the years can be the basis
being a triple amputee now means that the person on the other side of his lens of a much more powerful form of storytelling.
often feels Giles shares their experience. He can joke with survivors in a way
. If you want to grow personally and creatively, push yourself out of your
comfort zone.
. Do not get tied into a singular vision of a situation. Newspapers and media
in surprising ways.
As a photographer you have an opportunity to present the situation from
different angles.
. It is important to connect properly with people if you want to create
In the past, photographers like Don McCullin had the luxury of developing
. Go to the places that are not in the current headlines if you want to find
in a photo essay. The opportunity to step back will often strengthen your
. Building relationships with your subjects over time can lead to impactful
storytelling.
.
work and should be grasped if you have the option. These images and photo
stories are often the ones that have the greatest resonance. You should aim to present a nuanced and diverse perspective on the stories
.
you are covering.
You are not photographing injuries; you are photographing humans with
. Basic first aid training might one day help you save a life.
.
compelling stories. Look for the most interesting characters and don’t be
fobbed off with the first round of people suggested. Meet people and decide Trusting your instincts is essential both for your personal safety and for
for yourself. your creativity.
. Your camera is a passport into people’s lives and to hear their stories.
. Do first aid training. You never know when you might be the person to save
someone’s life.
Sometimes we can all hide behind our camera but take inspiration from Giles
and find a way to push yourself out of your comfort zone. Use your camera to
Use your voice, your skills, your talent and your passion and see where a trip
“
As an industry, we have
to try and not reward risk.
As a young photographer,
you don't immediately have
to go to the front line.
© RANKIN
BACK TO CONTENTS BBC MAESTRO 111 AN INTRODUCTION TO PHOTOGRAPHY
31. Extra Tips
“
You have learned the basics and you should be able to see the progress in your
are many books and websites out there that will go into these in even greater
of the camera in your hand
detail. A great place to start is Langford’s Basic Photography: The Guide for
Serious Photographers .
searching for the shot.
PERSPECTIVE
Change your point of view and perspective by altering the distance between you
and the subject and using different angles. You want to disrupt that automatic
Different perspectives can create specific moods and emotions. If you want to
make your subject appear more powerful or dominant, shoot them from a lower
angle. The converse is also true; a higher angle will make your subject appear
smaller and more vulnerable. You can create a sense of intimacy by shooting
closer to your subject and again, the opposite will be true if you shoot from
portrait.
© RANKIN
PERSPECTIVE: HIGH ANGLE
“
Consider where you place your subject in the frame. Where they’re placed and
how much or little space they take up, can convey very different feelings and
emotions.
Think about where your subject is looking, compared with where they are I believe you make a photograph
placed in the frame and how much of your subject you can see.
rather than take it.
A popular compositional technique involves the ‘Rule of Thirds’* where the
frame is divided into equal parts by two horizontal lines and two vertical lines.
The rule goes, placing the focus of your subject at any of the four points where
the lines intersect, will create the most visually pleasing photo for the viewer.
in your photo then try breaking this rule and place the focus of your subject
P a y a t t e n t i o n to y o u r b a c k g r o u n d a n d f o r e g r o u n d . Yo u r b a c k g r o u n d c a n
compliment or contrast with your subject while the foreground can be used
to add depth and context to the story you are trying to tell. All these things
combined can enhance or even change the narrative of your photo. A good
rule of thumb; if there are any elements distracting from the subject then they
shouldn’t be there.
© RANKIN
* P L E A S E R E F E R T O T H E G L O S S A R Y S E C T I O N @ PA G E 1 3 0
When it comes to structuring your photograph, you have to take into account
your proportions, are you going vertical or horizontal or are you going square?
Aspect ratio refers to the relationship between the height and width of the image.
It has a huge impact on the composition of the image and can also evoke different
Vertical can create a sense of grandeur and square creates a sense of symmetry
and balance while the wider horizontal aspect ratio often creates a sense of
* P L E A S E R E F E R T O T H E G L O S S A R Y S E C T I O N @ PA G E 1 3 0
© RANKIN
© RANKIN
A S P E C T R AT I O : L A N D S C A P E A S P E C T R AT I O : P O RT R A I T
Use colour and tone to emphasise the mood you are after. Think about your
palate. Colours close to each other on the spectrum bleed together while the
ones at opposite ends contrast. Any area with contrasting colours will draw the
eye. Use it to your advantage if that is what you want, or use your lighting skills to
cast a shadow to obscure it. You can always work with colour in post-production
too.
© RANKIN
© RANKIN
COLOUR: CONTRAST COLOUR: BLEEDING
You need to make sure you have consciously thought of the balance in the image
and you should look for strong lines that help draw the viewer’s attention to
the focus.
You are looking for lines occurring in the environment which could be anything
including road markings, fencing, buildings, walls and mountains to even lines
created by light and shadow. If used right, leading lines will unconsciously lead
the viewer to your subject no matter where they are in the frame and what is
going on around them. Make sure the purpose of your image is never lost.
“
I studied photography
at college, but all my greatest
lessons came from just getting
out there and doing it.
© RANKIN
* P L E A S E R E F E R T O T H E G L O S S A R Y S E C T I O N @ PA G E 1 3 0
Everything inside your shot should be deliberate and should support the theme
Also keep in mind where you want your final image to be seen. The larger the
print, the more scope inside the frame. Conversely, if a social media platform
like Instagram is your gallery space, then a simpler image might work best.
Many of these techniques will already be a part of your practice but learning
the theory behind them is the next step in your journey and will give you the
“
The goal is to be creative and
learn how to take photographs.
© RANKIN
FRAMING: CLOSE
. By changing perspectives, you can make the same subject appear powerful
.
or vulnerable.
The placement of your subject in the frame can enhance or alter the narrative
.
of the image.
Consider your aspect ratio well as each can be used to reveal, hide and tell
.
different narratives.
.
Colour can be used to create different moods.
.
Contrasting colours can help draw the viewer’s eye.
.
Each subject is unique. Work with colours that complement their skin tone.
.
Leading lines are a powerful tool to help you guide the viewer’s eye.
Everything in the frame should be deliberate and should help tell the story.
EXERCISE
Which of these more advanced techniques feels furthest from your comfort
zone? You learn the most when you push yourself out of that zone so for your
next exercise, take each technique one by one and create a series of photographs
Each image should focus on one of the techniques. Using the same subject,
© RANKIN
can you harness these techniques to tell different narratives in each portrait?
The next step for any budding photographer can be a scary one. After learning Include work that is truly reflective of who you are and what you love to shoot.
all these skills, you have to be brave and put your work out there to be seen. It Even if this section is only a small fraction of the overall portfolio. This will be
has never been easier for a budding photographer to get their work seen. In the your North Star, guiding your choices and reminding you of why you wanted to
past, you would have created a physical portfolio of your work that you would be a professional photographer in the first place.
TA K E T H E I N I T I AT I V E
Today, many photographers have moved away from this practice and solely Don’t wait for brands and commissioners to come to you. You will not get
display and promote their work through social media platforms like Instagram. commissions for a style or genre that is not already represented in your work.
This has opened up access to potential clients for so many young photographers I f y o u w a n t to b e a p o t e n t i a l c a n d i d a t e f o r a p a r t i c u l a r s t y l e o r g e n r e o f
who would previously have had to use precious resources to pay for a costly photography then the onus is on you to reassure the commissioner that you
portfolio. But with this accessibility and ease comes the risk of market saturation. are capable. You do this through taking the initiative and creating your own
Apps and websites like Instagram have levelled the playing field for so many examples in this area. This can mean working for free but a little investment
budding photographers but it also means you will need to work harder than ever now will pay off in the future when you find yourself working in the genre and
before to find your place within this new digital world and ensure your work style you are most drawn to.
Your portfolio is a blank canvas. Think about the subjects and styles you really
W H AT D O I I N C L U D E ? love and go create work that excites you, because that is what will excite the
When it comes to your portfolio, be it physical or digital, the most important audience and, ultimately, the commissioners. Your passion is photography
step is to choose the areas you are most passionate about working within and and bringing your portfolio together should be an enjoyable process. It should
make sure those are clearly represented and defined. spark excitement and an eagerness to get to work. This is your opportunity
to showcase what you can do to the world and to find the genres and styles
You will need to ensure your portfolio has depth and range to showcase your that get your creative juices flowing. While the goal may be to start bringing
flexibility as a photographer. in commissions and booking jobs; it is important that you enjoy the day-to-day
Your portfolio should be full of the type of images you love to create. There is no n e t w o r k i n g. T ha t mea ns t ha t whi l e bui l di ng yo ur po r t f o l i o i s a huge t a sk,
point having lingerie shots in there if that is not where you want your career to go. it should also be an enjoyable one.
Are you a part of any groups or subcultures that grip your imagination? Would As you build your portfolio and your creative network, it is important to start
they make for an interesting series of images? These are the questions you talking about the kind of jobs you want to be working on. Be very clear about
should be asking yourself. If you have unique access to a world that the outside your ambitions, your passions and your skills. People will remember you and
your work and as those jobs start to come up, you will be on their mind. If you
world might not be familiar with, what would those images be like? Would you
have taken that first step to create work in the areas you want to move into then
be able to capture a slice of life that the rest of us haven’t seen? Which scenes or
you will be a natural choice for the commissioners as they will be confident you
subcultures could you immerse yourself in that will ignite that flame of creativity?
can be relied on to deliver.
You need to be following your passions and finding out what makes you tick
It all comes down to doing what you love and what brings your imagination to
as a photographer if you want to create work that will draw an audience in and
life. Follow those pathways and you will find your voice and create images that
get you noticed. Your unique perspective on a hidden world will always hold
you will be proud to show to the word; be it online or in a physical portfolio.
fascination and this is a huge opportunity to develop your visual storytelling.
When you approach a group you want to photograph, your passion and authenticity
TA K E A W AY S
.
will come through. People respond to authenticity and enthusiasm and will often
be only too happy to collaborate with you. If you let your integrity lead then
It has never been easier to get your work in front of an audience
people will often introduce you to their own contacts and the possibilities for
.
and commissioners.
collaboration and creative projects will expand. That is the power of authenticity,
integrity and passion. It draws people to you and leads to more opportunities. When creating your portfolio, choose the areas you are most passionate
.
about working within and make sure they are represented.
THE CONDUIT
.
Your portfolio should represent who you are as a photographer.
Your voice as a photographer is a combination of your passion, your inspiration
If you want to move into a specific genre, make sure you include examples
and what you love to shoot. Photography can be a way to process your
.
of that genre in your portfolio.
experiences and bring your perspective to the world. Often you are using your
camera to tell other people’s stories as well as your own. Your voice can be Authenticity and enthusiasm will open doors for you and will build trust
.
malleable depending on the story you are telling. with potential subjects.
Be clear about your ambition and follow your passion. That is the way to create
authentic work that will break through the proliferation of images online
PORTFOLIO
You should already have a collection of images that you are proud of. Ones
that illustrate the journey you have been on with BBC Maestro. Now is the time
to bring those images together in a portfolio you will send out into the world
to introduce yourself.
Yo u r f i r s t s t e p i s to b e t r u l y h o n e s t w i t h y o u r s e l f . W h a t d o y o u w a n t to
photograph? Do you have examples already that you can show prospective
clients? If not, then you are going to have to go out there and create those
“
images. It’s the lifeblood of what all photographers do.
Once you have those images then you must start to tell the story of who you
are through your work. You are a storyteller. You can create a physical book and
you can create your own website but many photographers today are utilising the
power of Instagram to curate their work and showcase their portfolio. Curate
© RANKIN
your own book, website or social media account dedicated to your work and tag
your fellow BBC Maestro course mates to support each other and get the word out.
You’ve honed your skills. You’ve taken images that you are proud of. You have AN ESSENTIAL SKILL
crafted stories using all the techniques you have learned throughout this You should be putting as much effort into researching and connecting with new
course. After putting in all that hard work to create a unique portfolio of work, people as you do with learning the essential skills of photography.
you will want to get it seen.
If you put the work in, you will begin to see results. Hopefully each new job leads
That means your next step is to put these skills to work for you. To make that happen,
on to another and you will see your work and your experience grow. Once the
you are going to need clients with the power to commission work from you.
work starts coming in, it’s important not to rest on your laurels. The temptation
YOUR NETWORK IS YOUR NET WORTH to fe e l t h a t i t i s a l l i nev i t a bl e wi l l be st ro ng but even t he mo st suc c essf ul
You do not need to know the industry to become a successful photographer. photographers at the top of their game are still out there making new connections
But the onus is on you to make it happen and that takes hard work and focus. and searching for the next job. It is good to stay hungry for the next challenge.
If you are serious about making a living with your photography then you will If you are passionate about photography then that will be the lifeblood of your
have to make your own opportunities throughout your career. work. You should always be seeking to challenge yourself and push your work
EXCEL TO EXCEL
Oppor tunity can come in many guises and you need to be poised to grab it.
Ken Kamara advises that your best friend is an Excel spreadsheet. It is an
In 2016, Ken snapped a photograph of Ross Lockwood, a London paramedic on
essential tool for networking and it is the most efficient way to keep a record of
duty at the Notting Hill Carnival. Ken had been drawn to Ross and thought he
all the people you come into contact with. It is crucial to keep updating the list
would make an excellent subject for a portrait. The pair became friends and Ross
and its details. You must break it all down, from where you met, what was said,
eventually spoke to his boss at the ambulance service to suggest Ken photograph
the position they are in. It will help you nur ture each relationship. It will also
the London Air Ambulance Service. Ken created a unique, compelling portrait
encourage you to keep knocking on doors and to grab opportunities when they
are presented to you. You should be asking for recommendations and always of the brave men and women saving lives across London every day and it all
follow them up. Initiative is key. It does take courage and commitment to follow stemmed from his passion for photography and his ability to make friends
each lead up and that bravery will be rewarded. and nur ture relationships.
. Create your own opportunities, don’t wait for them to come to you.
network but you will have to make sure you update it regularly.
EXERCISE
Your first step is to copy Ken and create a document where you will keep all
your contacts. Put your wish list of creative collaborators from earlier in the
© KEN KAMARA
course into the list. This is where it is about to get serious. Now let’s get the
next set of new entries onto the page. Make a list of at least three more people
you want to connect with. Search for the best way to contact them and add
that into the second column. Now contact them. Update your document. Easy
as pie, right?
Social media has changed the way we communicate. The world has opened WHERE DO THE CONCEPTS COME FROM?
up and we now have access to each other in ways that didn’t exist just over It’s six of one and half a dozen of the other. Sometimes I am asked to come up
a decade ago. This has made it far easier to learn new skills and approach the with creative concepts for clients and sometimes they come up with them.
people you admire for advice. W h a t eve r h a ppens, ma ki ng t ho se c o nc ept s c o me to l i fe i s a c o l l a bo ra t i ve
my good old email. The same questions come up time and again. So I thought
WHO IS ON YOUR BUCKET LIST?
it would be a great idea to answer them here.
My bucket list changes all the time. I’d obviously love to photograph Obama but
W H AT I S Y O U R A D V I C E F O R N E W P H OT O G R A P H E R S ?
HOW DO YOU KNOW YOU’VE GOT THE SHOT?
If you want to be a photographer, you’ve got to take pictures. Practise, practise,
Knowing when you’ve got the shot is such a weird thing because, for me, it’s
practise. It doesn’t matter whether it’s with your phone or it’s with your camera,
very instinctive. However, that’s something that I’ve learned over time. You’ve
you’ve got to learn how to take pictures.
got to try and trust yourself. But at the same time, give yourself that safety net
I’m inspired by people. I love the human interaction that a photographer has
with their subject and that’s where I get my inspiration. I’m also inspired by COMPOSITION OR LIGHT?
galleries, exhibitions, and books. I try to surround myself with creativity all
Neither is more important. It is all about bringing them together and making
the time but I don’t just look at photographs. I don’t just look at social media.
them work for you. Whether it’s composition, light or the subject being happy;
I look everywhere.
it’s about creating the environment to take the picture that you want to take.
Be nicer. Be nicer to myself and be kinder to other people. I thought you had to D I G I TA L O R F I L M ?
be a dictator when I first started and actually what I’ve learned is it’s all about Digital or film? It’s a big question but I think both of them are great for different
collaboration. Bringing a team together behind a single vision is what your job reasons. You have to decide which you prefer to use in your practice. But if you
portfolio. Create a portfolio full of the kind of work you want to create. That will
WORDS OF WISDOM?
show potential clients what you are passionate about and show that you can
Ke n L o a ch, t he br i l l i a nt f i l mma ker, o nc e to l d me t ha t i t wa s my jo b a s t he
deliver what they are looking for. Planting seeds is very important so knocking
photographer, or director, to be nice.
on doors, reminding people who you are, asking for their advice are all great
ways to get yourself and your work seen. But you will only be asked to do things
W H AT WA S Y O U R B I G G E S T B R E A K ?
TA K E A W AY S
.
Probably the biggest break of my career was photographing the Queen. Once
you’ve photographed the Queen, that’s it. Nobody can really say ‘who has he
Get out and about to find your inspiration.
photographed?’ because you photographed the Queen.
. The creative process is all about collaboration. It makes your work stronger.
.
DSLR, use your camera phone. Or use your camera phone to practise because it
is so easy to use. But of course, when you are taking a photograph that is really
You won’t get a commission without proof you can already deliver.
important to you, you should probably use your DSLR.
. If you really want to learn photography, work with both film and digital.
Restrictions create innovation and I also challenge myself all the time. You have
Well done! You now have all the tools you need to make great portraits. But
by far the most important of all is yourself. Your mind, your ideas, your unique
happiest with a camera in hand. It is your pen, your paintbrush, your voice.
It allows you to communicate with the world. That is a rare opportunity and
one you should grasp with both hands. It is the biggest challenge of all. Find
out what you are passionate about; what you want to say to the world. Take
portraits that reveal something in each of your subjects that no one has ever
seen before. Then share your work with the world. Don’t forget to tag us here
at BBC Maestro.
PRACTISE.
“
The work always came first.
It was, and still is addictive.
A analogue camera that uses 35mm film to capture photographs. It has The aesthetic quality of the out of focus areas in a photograph, created through
A camera that captures images on photographic film rather than a digital light The technique of reflecting the light from one direction to another.
sensor .
BURST
A continuous shooting mode where the camera takes several frames in rapid
ANGLE OF VIEW
succession.
The extent of the scene that a lens can capture, measured in degrees or millimetres.
C AT C H L I G H T
APERTURE
The reflection of a light source in the eyes of the subject.
The opening in a lens through which light passes. It affects the depth of field
The process of adjusting the colour and tone of an image to achieve a desired
A S P E C T R AT I O
look or mood.
The ratio of width to height of a photo which affects the framing and composition
of a portrait.
C O LO U R T E M P E R AT U R E
A measure of the warmth or coolness of a light source expressed in degrees
A U T O M AT I C
Kelvin. It can be modified through the white balance settings.
When in automatic mode, the camera automatically selects and adjusts the
exposure settings such as aperture, shutter speed and ISO to achieve the best COMPOSITION
exposure for the image. The arrangement of the visual elements of the image within the frame of the
photograph.
BACKLIGHTING
The main light source is positioned behind the subject creating a silhouette CONTRAST
or halo effect . The difference between the lightest and darkest areas in an image.
F O C A L D I S TA N C E
DEPTH OF FIELD
The distance between the lens and the subject.
The distance between the closest and the farthest objects in a photograph that
appear acceptably in focus . Controlled through the aperture settings.
FOCAL LENGTH
The distance between the optical centre of the lens and the camera's sensor ,
DIFFUSER
which is measured in milimetres indicated on the lens.
A modifier used to soften the light.
D I G I TA L S I N G L E - L E N S R E F L E X ( D S L R ) C A M E R A FOCAL PLANE
A DSLR cam era refl ec ts l i g h t th at en ters t h ro u g h t h e lens u s in g a m i r ro r The point where perfect focus is in your frame. This point runs parallel to your
allowing the photographer to view the image in a viewfinder. camera and spans the complete horizontal and vertical distance of your frame.
EXPOSURE FOCUS
The amount of light that reaches the camera's sensor or film.
The sharpness and clarity of the subject in an image.
FA S T E R
F-STOP
A faster shutter speed , meaning the camera’s shutter is open for a shor ter
Se q u e n ce o f number s depi c t i ng t he sto ps o f l i ght yo ur aper ture i s l et t i ng
amount of time which will allow the camera to capture a moving subject
through. Stops is a unit measurement of light.
without any motion blur.
GOLDEN HOUR
FA S T L E N S
Lenses that possess a wide aperture. The period of time just after sunrise and just before sunset when the sun is low
FILL LIGHT
Additional lighting used that is not the main source of light, known as the HARD LIGHT
key light. A strong light.
FLASH HIGHLIGHTS
A device that produces a burst of light to illuminate a subject. The brightest areas of an image.
ISO
The sensitivity of the camera sensor to light. MIRRORLESS
The camera uses an electronic viewfinder and LCD screen to display what the
camera sees.
JPEG
The most common file format for images and photographs.
N AT U R A L L I G H T
Any light source not produced by artificial light such as the sun, moon and stars.
KEY LIGHT
Can alter dramatically depending on time of day and weather conditions.
The primary light source.
NOISE
LEADING LINES The distortion or graininess that occurs in a digital image when shooting in low
Natural or man-made lines that lead the viewer's eye towards the main focal light or with high ISO settings.
point of the image.
OVEREXPOSURE
LENS When too much light is captured by the camera it results in overly bright, white
An object made of glass that funnels the light onto the camera's sensor or film. parts of an image where the detail might not be able to be retrieved.
format camera has a larger sensor than other digital camera, but the sensor is PRIME LENS
not always 120mm, the size depends on the camera and manufacturer. A camera lens with a fixed focal length .
RGB TUNGSTEN
Red, Green and Blue. Each colour in the spectrum is produced using a mixture A light source using a bulb that produces a warm, orange light with a colour
and two vertical lines that create 9 equal sized boxes or multiple ‘thirds’.
TWILIGHT
SENSOR Also known as Blue Hour, the 20 minutes before sunrise and after sunset.
A sensor captures the light that passes through the lens and converts it into
UMBRELLA
electronic signals that can be processed and stored as a digital image.
A light modifier used to diffuse light.
SHUTTER SPEED
VIGNETTE
The amount of time the camera's shutter remains open to expose the camera
A darkening or brightening around the edges of an image.
sensor to light.
WHITE BALANCE
SLOW LENS
The setting of the colour temperature and colour tint on a camera or photograph.
Lenses that do not possess a wide aperture .
allowing more time to capture the light. This is often used in low light or to create
ZOOM LENS
a blurred effect with moving subjects. A lens that can change its focal length .
Berger, J. (2008).
Ways of Seeing.
“
I believe the best photos make
you think and feel something.
They engage your brain and your
London: Penguin Classics.
heart. Those are the images that
Cameron, B. (2021).
Cult Following: My Escape and Return to the Children of God. really excite a viewer, and those
are the ones I want to teach you
Stockholm: Manilla Press.
Cartier-Bresson, H. (2004).
The Mind’s Eye: Writings on Photography and Photographers.
to take.
New York: Aperture.
Duley, G. (2015).
One Second of Light. McCullin, D. (2015).
New York: Benway Publishing. Don McCullin: The New Definitive Edition.
London: Jonathan Cape.
Goldin, N., Heiferman, M., Holborn, M., Fletcher. S. (2012).
Nan Goldin: The Ballad of Sexual Dependency. Salinger, A. (1995).
New York: Aperture. In My Room: Teenagers in their Bedrooms.
San Francisco: Chronicle Books.
Langford, M Fox, A., Sawdon Smith, R. (2015).
Langford’s Basic Photography: The Guide for Serious Photographers, Sontag, S. (1979).
10th Edition. On Photography.
Oxford: Routledge. London: Penguin.
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