Global Fashion Business - Jury Assignment
Global Fashion Business - Jury Assignment
Submitted by
Aarushi Jain
Suruchi Banerjee
Submitted to
I, Aarushi Jain, hereby declare that the project work on Global Fashion Business submitted
by me to the National Institute of Fashion Technology for the Masters in Fashion
Management is an original and authentic piece of work carried out by me under the guidance
of my Professor, Professor Suruchi Banerjee. All the information and data presented in this
project are based on my research, and I have duly acknowledged all the sources of
information in the bibliography.
I further declare that this project has not been submitted in part or full to any other institution
for any degree or diploma. Any similarities with other works are purely coincidental and
unintentional.
Acknowledgement
Regards,
Aarushi Jain
Table of Contents
Introduction 5
What is Global Apparel Sourcing? 6
Benefits of Global Apparel Sourcing 7
Shifting Dynamics in Global Apparel Sourcing Base 9
Emerging Trends in Global Apparel Sourcing 12
Why are Companies shifting from China as a global apparel sourcing base? 15
Consumer Perceptions of Chinese Products 18
Reasons for India's Rising Attractiveness in Global Manufacturing and Sourcing over
China: 20
Red Sea Crisis 22
Reasons for Manufacturing Shift from China to Vietnam: 29
Vietnam-India relations 32
Can India provide raw materials to Vietnam? 34
Textile & Apparel Trade of India 36
Current Landscape of India 38
Strategies for India 40
Strategic Initiatives to Enhance India's Competitiveness 46
Conclusion 50
References 51
Introduction
The global apparel industry is experiencing a profound shift in its sourcing strategies, driven
by a convergence of economic pressures, technological advancements, and evolving
consumer expectations. Traditional manufacturing powerhouses like China, which have long
dominated the apparel production landscape, are facing rising labor costs and increased
scrutiny over environmental and labor practices. This has led brands and retailers to diversify
their sourcing bases to mitigate risks and optimize costs. Emerging markets in Southeast
Asia, Africa, and Latin America are gaining prominence as alternative sourcing destinations,
offering competitive labor costs, improving infrastructure, and favorable trade agreements.
Additionally, the push for sustainability is reshaping sourcing decisions. Consumers and
stakeholders are increasingly demanding transparency and ethical practices throughout the
supply chain. This has compelled companies to adopt more sustainable and socially
responsible sourcing strategies, often involving suppliers that prioritize eco-friendly materials
and fair labor practices. Technological advancements such as automation, AI, and blockchain
are also revolutionizing the apparel industry, enabling more efficient production processes,
enhanced supply chain visibility, and quicker response times to market changes.
Furthermore, geopolitical dynamics, such as trade wars, have highlighted the vulnerabilities
of relying heavily on a single sourcing region. Companies are now prioritizing supply chain
resilience, seeking to balance efficiency with flexibility. This has led to the rise of
nearshoring and reshoring trends, where production is moved closer to the consumer markets
in North America and Europe, reducing lead times and increasing agility.
In this rapidly evolving landscape, apparel brands and retailers must navigate a complex web
of considerations to remain competitive. The shift in global apparel sourcing is not merely a
strategic adjustment but a fundamental transformation that reflects broader changes in the
global economy, technology, and consumer values. Understanding these trends and their
implications is crucial for stakeholders aiming to thrive in the future of apparel production.
What is Global Apparel Sourcing?
Global sourcing in the textile and apparel industry refers to the practice of procuring
materials, products, and services from different countries to meet the demands of the industry.
It has become a crucial function in the industry, with over 95% of textile and apparel products
being globally sourced.
In today's global marketplace, the scope of sourcing extends worldwide, presenting both
opportunities and challenges for merchandisers. They must navigate the complexities of both
domestic and international sourcing. This responsibility can be fulfilled through direct
engagement with suppliers or by leveraging sourcing agents who facilitate the process.
Effective sourcing requires a deep understanding of materials, quality standards, costing, and
relevant import regulations, especially when dealing with international suppliers.
Merchandisers must also stay abreast of international business policies and legal procedures
related to material sourcing.
The decisions made in sourcing have a significant impact on the reputation and success of the
apparel industry. Therefore, making the right sourcing decisions ensures efficiency and
flexibility in meeting the demands of the supply chain within the specified timeframe.
Benefits of Global Apparel Sourcing
1. Cost Savings:
● Quality and Expertise: Global sourcing enables companies to access suppliers with
specialized expertise and experience in specific product categories or production
processes. For example, Italian suppliers are renowned for their expertise in luxury
textiles and craftsmanship.
● Innovation and Creativity: By collaborating with suppliers from diverse cultural
backgrounds and industrial landscapes, companies can tap into innovative ideas,
design aesthetics, and technological advancements, enriching their product offerings
and enhancing competitiveness.
● Supply Chain Redundancy: Working with multiple suppliers across different
regions provides built-in redundancy in the supply chain, reducing the risk of
disruptions due to factors such as natural disasters, geopolitical tensions, or supplier
bankruptcy.
● Research and Development: Collaborating with suppliers and industry partners from
different regions fosters cross-pollination of ideas, leading to innovations in product
design, material technologies, sustainability practices, and production processes.
● Sustainability Initiatives: Global sourcing facilitates the adoption of sustainable
practices across the supply chain by leveraging best practices, certifications, and
renewable resources available in different regions. For example, sourcing organic
cotton from India or eco-friendly dyes from Europe.
● Supplier Development: Establishing long-term relationships with suppliers through
global sourcing encourages capacity building, skill development, and continuous
improvement initiatives, driving overall industry competitiveness and sustainability.
Shifting Dynamics in Global Apparel Sourcing Base
● For years, the Asia Pacific region has served as the epicenter of textiles and apparel
sourcing, accounting for a significant portion of global production and exports.
● Countries like China, Bangladesh, Vietnam, India, and others have established
themselves as key players in the global T&A supply chain due to various factors such
as abundant labor, favorable trade policies, infrastructure development, and industrial
capabilities.
● China, in particular, has historically been the primary destination for apparel sourcing
due to its scale, efficiency, and manufacturing prowess. However, rising labor costs,
trade tensions, and evolving consumer preferences have prompted a shift in sourcing
strategies within the region.
● As manufacturing costs rise in China, brands and retailers are diversifying their
sourcing base to other countries within the Asia Pacific region to maintain cost
competitiveness.
● Bangladesh has emerged as a major sourcing destination, especially for basic apparel
items, owing to its low labor costs and preferential trade agreements. However,
challenges related to worker safety, infrastructure, and political stability remain areas
of concern.
● Vietnam has witnessed significant growth in apparel exports, fueled by its competitive
labor costs, improving infrastructure, and favourable trade agreements such as the
EU-Vietnam Free Trade Agreement (EVFTA) and the Comprehensive and
Progressive Agreement for Trans-Pacific Partnership (CPTPP).
● India, with its skilled workforce, diverse textile ecosystem, and government initiatives
like the "Make in India" campaign, is increasingly positioning itself as an attractive
destination for apparel sourcing. However, infrastructure bottlenecks, regulatory
complexities, and bureaucratic hurdles present challenges to its growth trajectory.
● With growing consumer awareness and regulatory pressures, sustainability and ethical
sourcing have become paramount concerns for T&A businesses.
● Brands and retailers are increasingly scrutinizing their supply chains, seeking
transparency, traceability, and compliance with environmental and social standards.
● Countries that can demonstrate commitment to sustainable practices, such as organic
cotton farming, eco-friendly manufacturing processes, and fair labor practices, stand
to gain a competitive edge in the global sourcing landscape.
● Geopolitical tensions between the United States and China, exacerbated by policies
against forced labor, have disrupted the apparel sourcing landscape. Concerns over
human rights violations in Xinjiang have led to increased scrutiny and potential
sanctions on Chinese goods.
● Tighter border protection laws and disruptions by the Chinese government, such as
labor shortages and factory closures, have raised concerns among Western brands
about the reliability and stability of their supply chains. As a result, companies are
exploring alternative sourcing methods to mitigate risks and ensure continuity of
supply.
● Fashion brands are increasingly focusing on building stronger relationships with super
vendors, which are companies that have extensive networks and capabilities to source
materials from multiple regions globally.
● These relationships provide flexibility in sourcing materials, enabling brands to adapt
quickly to changing market conditions, mitigate risks, and maintain a global presence
while ensuring compliance with ethical and sustainability standards.
● The Asia Pacific region mirrors the global trade pattern, with a parallel distribution in
trade contributions across apparel, raw textiles, and home textiles categories.
● Apparels stand out as the primary driver in the Asia Pacific trade landscape,
reinforcing the region's role as a manufacturing and exporting hub for finished
clothing items globally.
● The substantial share of raw textiles in Asia Pacific trade underscores the region's
influence on the global supply chain, as it serves as a major source of essential textile
materials for manufacturing.
● While home textiles contribute proportionally less, their presence signifies the Asia
Pacific region's involvement in the trade of household textile goods, catering to
consumer preferences in this segment.
● Asia, particularly countries like China, Bangladesh, Vietnam, and India, has been a
major hub for apparel sourcing. However, there has been a gradual shift in recent
years due to rising labour costs in China and geopolitical considerations. Some
companies have been diversifying their sourcing to other Asian countries to manage
the risks and costs of production.
● The segmented analysis of global trade data underscores the Asia-Pacific region as a
paramount contributor to the supply of textile and apparel-based goods. Beyond being
a leading supplier, it also stands as one of the most significant markets for such
commodities, ranking second only to Europe. This region commands a substantial
share of 60.7 per cent in the overall textile and apparel segment, with a specific
breakdown showcasing its dominance at 60.1 per cent in the apparel segment, 60.5
per cent in the Home Textile segment, and a remarkable 62 per cent in the global
exports of raw textile materials.
● The Asian countries no doubt dominate the textile export market and the other nations
in Africa, the Middle East, North America, and Europe are the consumers or the
markets for these textile exports.
● Asian countries are largely dependent on the European and American markets for
their exports, but these countries also have their intra-continent trade. Countries like
China, Bangladesh, and Vietnam export apparel to the countries within Asia and
export to the other major markets. Thus, the suppliers are in a much need to diversify
by expanding the trade within the Asian continent and exploring countries in the
African region.
● From a market perspective, the Asia-Pacific region accounts for 35.3 per cent of
global textile and apparel imports. A more granular examination reveals that raw
textile imports constitute 46 per cent, while apparel imports and Home Textiles cover
33 per cent and 18 per cent, respectively.
● This comprehensive analysis highlights the pivotal role played by the Asia-Pacific
region in the global textile and apparel industry, both as a major supplier and a
substantial market force.
●
Why are Companies shifting from China as a global apparel sourcing base?
After the pandemic revealed the limits and risks of global fashion supply chains with an
overreliance on China, the all-time high inflation seen since 2022 has worsened the situation.
Not only have brands and retailers felt the pressure of the increasing cost of goods sold
(COGS), but they have also refrained from passing all these costs to consumers whose
budgets are being squeezed. Even if the COGS somewhat normalised in the last quarter of
2023, the security crisis in the Red Sea is further disrupting supply chains and inflation as the
costs of international shipments rise.
In the short term, this poses another pricing conundrum for fashion players, which have
already had to contend with costs rising much quicker than the amount they can pass on
within consumer pricing. In the longer term, geopolitical tensions will further drive supply
chain shifts, which have accelerated since the pandemic.
Ralph Lauren says, “In Fiscal 2022, approximately 97% of our products (by dollar value)
were produced outside of the US, primarily in Asia, Europe, and Latin America, with
approximately 19% of our products sourced from China and another 19% from Vietnam.
However, many fashion companies have significantly cut their apparel sourcing volume from
China. More often, China is no longer the No.1 apparel sourcing destination, overtaken by
China’s competitors in Asia, such as Vietnam.
The diversification of apparel sourcing away from China is driven by several factors:
● Rising Labor Costs: China's labor costs have been steadily increasing, prompting
fashion companies to seek alternatives in countries with lower labor costs like
Vietnam, Cambodia, and Bangladesh.
● Trade Tensions: Escalating trade tensions between the US and China have led to
uncertainties and concerns about tariffs and trade policies, incentivizing companies to
reduce reliance on China.
● Supply Chain Resilience: The disruptions caused by the COVID-19 pandemic
highlighted vulnerabilities in global supply chains, prompting companies to reassess
their sourcing strategies and prioritize resilience.
● The COVID-19 pandemic has had profound effects on the fashion industry, including
disruptions to supply chains, changes in consumer behavior, and shifts in sourcing
strategies.
● China's stringent "zero-COVID" policy and lockdown measures have led to
disruptions in production and logistics, impacting fashion companies' operations and
sales in the region.
● Companies have responded by diversifying their sourcing base, reducing dependence
on China, and enhancing supply chain agility to mitigate future risks.
➔ Macy’s adds, “At this time, it is unknown how long US tariffs on Chinese goods will
remain in effect or whether additional tariffs will be imposed. Depending upon their
duration and implementation, as well as our ability to mitigate their impact, these
changes in foreign trade policy and any recently enacted, proposed and future tariffs
on products imported by us from China could negatively impact our business,
results of operations and liquidity if they seriously disrupt the movement of products
through our supply chain or increase their cost.”
➔ Gap Inc. says, “Trade matters may disrupt our supply chain. For example, the current
political landscape, including with respect to U.S.-China relations, and recent tariffs
and bans imposed by the United States and other countries (such as the Uyghur
Forced Labor Prevention Act) has introduced greater uncertainty with respect to
future tax and trade regulations.”
➔ QVC says, “The imposition of any new US tariffs or other restrictions on Chinese
imports or the taking of other actions against China in the future, and any responses
by China, could impair our ability to meet customer demand and could result in lost
sales or an increase in our cost of merchandise, which would have a material adverse
impact on our business and results of operations.”
➔ Express says, “recent geopolitical conditions, including impacts from the ongoing
conflict between Russia and Ukraine and increased tensions between China and
Taiwan, have all contributed to disruptions and rising costs to global supply chains.”
➔ When assessing the market risk factors, Chico’s FAS says, “our reliance on sourcing
from foreign suppliers and significant adverse economic, labor, political or other
shifts (including adverse changes in tariffs, taxes or other import regulations,
particularly with respect to China, or legislation prohibiting certain imports from
China)”
Historical Perception
1. Low Costs and Counterfeits: Chinese products historically gained a reputation for
being low quality due to their often lower prices and the significant presence of
counterfeit goods in the market. This has led consumers worldwide to associate
"Made in China" with products that are cheap, flimsy, and unreliable.
Brand Influence
4. Brand Value: The perceived quality and trust in a brand can significantly diminish
the negative impact of the "Made in China" label. High brand value and strong
consumer trust in brands like Apple, Nike, or Samsung can override concerns about
Chinese manufacturing.
7. European consumers tend to value brand names more than the "Made in China"
label when assessing product quality. This suggests that well-known brands can
mitigate some of the negative perceptions associated with Chinese manufacturing.
8. In the US, 65% of consumers are less likely to purchase Chinese products, and 12%
have never bought any, indicating a strong bias against products labeled "Made in
China" due to perceived quality issues.
10. Perception of Quality: Turkish importers often select the cheapest Chinese
products, which are then perceived as low quality by Turkish consumers. This
strategy of maximizing profit margins by importing lower-end products contributes to
the negative perception of Chinese goods in Turkey.
Reasons for India's Rising Attractiveness in Global Manufacturing and
Sourcing over China:
In the past few months, global trade has been held back by disruptions at two critical shipping
routes. Attacks on vessels in the Red Sea area reduced traffic through the Suez Canal, the
shortest maritime route between Asia and Europe, through which about 15 percent of global
maritime trade volume normally passes. Instead, several shipping companies diverted their
ships around the Cape of Good Hope. This increased delivery times by 10 days or more on
average, hurting companies with limited inventories.
Before the crisis involving the Red Sea, which connects Asia to Europe via the Suez Canal,
emerged as the heart of global tension, 30 days were usually needed to ship goods from
Chattogram to ports in Europe.
The tension has forced carriers to reroute ships around the Cape of Good Hope in South
Africa, resulting in delays of up to three weeks since they would have to travel an additional
3,500 kilometres, raising operational expenses.
The attacks by the Iran-backed Houthi rebels in Yemen in the Red Sea have diverted much of
the international community’s attention away from preventing piracy, experts say, which has
re-emerged in the region for the first time in almost a decade.
Indian authorities captured 35 Somali pirates from the ship Ruen last week, three months
after it was hijacked off the coast of the East African country. Such piracy incidents have shot
up since November, when the militia in Yemen started increasing attacks on vessels in what
they say was a response to the war in Gaza, with more than 20 pirate hijackings reported in
the Gulf of Aden and Somali Basin over the past five months.
On the other side of the world, a severe drought at the Panama Canal has forced authorities to
impose restrictions that have substantially reduced daily ship crossings since last October,
slowing down maritime trade through another key chokepoint that usually accounts for about
5 percent of global maritime trade.
In recent months, trade has been diverted from the Suez Canal to the Cape of Good Hope,
while less trade has passed through the Panama Canal.
Trade disruption in Europe and Africa
As a result of the Red Sea crisis, countries around the world, including those in Europe, Asia,
and the Americas, are also seeing price increases in a variety of products, from food to
electronics, which ultimately contributes to inflation and impacts consumer spending power.
European Countries: European countries, heavily reliant on the Suez Canal for Asian
imports, are grappling with higher shipping costs and potential goods reception delays,
impacting a broad spectrum of industries from food to manufactured items. Countries in
Northern Europe like Germany, the Netherlands, the UK, Belgium, and France are
particularly vulnerable to these delays and cost increases.
Africa and the Middle East (including Egypt, Sudan, Yemen): These regions are
particularly vulnerable due to their reliance on grain imports of wheat, corn, and rice through
the Red Sea. Countries like Egypt, Sudan, and Yemen, already facing food insecurity, could
see worsening conditions if grain shipments are delayed or become more expensive.
Russia: Crude oil exports to India, transiting through the Suez Canal, are impacted by the
need for longer transit routes, affecting supply dynamics, costs and decreasing trade volumes.
Impact on India:
The ongoing crisis, particularly the disruption in major shipping routes like the Suez Canal,
has had a profound impact on Indian trade, especially with regions like the Middle East,
Africa, and Europe.
● The crisis has led to increased shipping costs, with estimates ranging from 40% to
60%, due to the need for rerouting cargo through alternative routes.
● Rerouting cargo can result in delays of up to 20 days or more, affecting the timeliness
of deliveries and disrupting supply chains.
● Higher shipping costs and delays put additional financial strain on businesses
involved in trade, affecting their profitability and operational efficiency.
● Meeting delivery commitments becomes increasingly challenging, leading to strained
relationships with international buyers who rely on timely deliveries to meet their own
production schedules and customer demands.
● The unpredictability of the supply chain adds uncertainty and risk to the export
process, making it difficult for exporters to plan effectively and allocate resources
efficiently.
3. Quality Infrastructure
5. Dynamic Workforce
● Young Labor Force: Vietnam’s workforce is notably younger than China’s, with the
median age of workers being seven years younger. This younger demographic is
advantageous for manufacturers looking for a vibrant and adaptable labor force.
● Strong Work Ethic: The Vietnamese labor force is recognized for its strong work
ethic and commitment to quality. This makes them well-suited for high-level technical
assembly tasks, including automotive parts and smart devices.
● Labor Force Size: With 54 million out of 90 million citizens being of working age
(18-60), Vietnam has a substantial and capable labor pool to support diverse
manufacturing needs.
6. Free-Trade Agreements
● Global Trade Participation: Vietnam has actively pursued and signed numerous
bilateral trade agreements, expanding its trade relations beyond the Association of
Southeast Asian Nations (ASEAN) to foster economic growth and integration into the
global economy.
7. Strategic Location
● Geographical Advantage: Vietnam’s location in Southeast Asia provides easy access
to major markets such as China, Japan, South Korea, the European Union, and the
United States.
● Facilitates Trade: This strategic positioning enhances the efficiency of imports and
exports, reducing transit times and costs compared to other countries.
● Competitive Logistics: Proximity to key markets means more cost-effective and
streamlined logistics and supply chain management, crucial for the fast-paced textile
and apparel industry.
● Economic Development: These free trade agreements have played a crucial role in
Vietnam’s economic development, enabling the country to transition from exporting
low-tech manufacturing products to more complex, high-tech goods such as
electronics, machinery, medical devices, and vehicles. This shift offers international
partners access to a highly skilled yet cost-effective labor force, enhancing Vietnam's
attractiveness as a manufacturing hub.
India and Vietnam have long standing trade and economic relations which have steadily grown
over a period of time. From a meagre USD 200 million in the year 2000, bilateral trade grew to
USD 15 billion in 2022. According to Indian data during 2022-2023, bilateral trade reached USD
14.70 billion, registering an increase of 3.98%. India exports to Vietnam reached USD 5.91
billion while Indian imports from Vietnam amounted to USD 8.79 billion. According to the
General Department of Vietnam Customs, bilateral trade between India and Vietnam reached
USD 15.04 billion registering an increase of 13.92% in 2022. Exports by India reached USD 7.08
billion growing by 1.95% while imports by India amounted to USD 7.96 billion increasing by
27.20%.
India has a long-standing development partnership with Vietnam that has made positive
contributions towards capacity building and socio-economic development of Vietnam. India has
also been providing assistance to Vietnam within the ASEAN framework. Under the Mekong
Ganga Cooperation (MGC) framework, India has been taking up Quick Impact Projects (QIPs),
each valued at USD 50,000, in different provinces of Vietnam for development of community
infrastructure. With their short gestation period, the QIPs bring direct benefits to communities at
the grassroots level. During the virtual summit between the Prime Minister of India and Vietnam
on 21 December 2020, the number of QIPs projects was increased from 05 to 10 per year to be
implemented annually in Vietnam. So far, since 2017, 46 projects have been sanctioned in 39
provinces of Vietnam out of which 37 have already been completed and 9 are under
implementation.
According to Ashok Juneja, President of the Textile Association (India), garments and
textiles are a key export sector of Vietnam with revenue of up to US$36 billion, nearly
equalling India’s US$38 billion value. However, regarding the export structure, he noted that
India exports US$16 billion of garments and US$22 billion of textile products, while Vietnam
exports up to US$31 billion of garments and only US$5billion of textile items. Therefore, the
two countries have ample space to boost cooperation in this area.
Juneja added that India has a long-standing textile industry, with its strength based on
production from natural fibers such as cotton, jute, silk and wool, to synthetic fibers such as
polyster and nylon. This advantage will be a valuable complement to Vietnam, which heavily
depends on imported raw materials for its garment and textile industry.
When looking at the diplomatic journey of the past two decades, the bilateral trade
relationship between India and Vietnam has grown steadily from US$200 million in 2000 to
US$12.3 billion in the financial year 2019-2020.
Can India provide raw materials to Vietnam?
India is the 8th largest supplier of T&A products to Vietnam with just a 2% market share. India
exported around US$ 0.36 bn worth of T&A to Vietnam, with a y-o-y decline of around 43% in
2019. Considering the fact that Vietnam imports a significant amount of textile raw material,
India as a large manufacturing base should try to increase its share. India is the largest producer
of cotton in the world, the single largest commodity that Vietnam imports. Additionally, India is
also a large producer of polyester staple fibre, another product that features in Vietnam’s top ten
imports.
Apparel represents approx. 75% of the total exports by Vietnam. It imports most of the cotton
and polyester fibres (raw material for fabric and apparel production) from other countries i.e.,
China, South Korea, Taiwan, Japan and India. Woven fabrics derived from high tenacity
nylon, polyester and other polyamides are also one of the most demanded categories in
Vietnam. India can target these as well.
Vietnam has recently signed a free trade agreement with the EU. The provision of this FTA
along with the low manufacturing costs make Vietnam a cost-effective supplier to the EU.
India can become an important partner to Vietnam by providing essential raw materials for
manufacturing apparel for Europe. Additionally, the recent Xinjiang cotton controversy
enables India to become the largest supplier of cotton to Vietnam.
Textile & Apparel Trade of India
3. Rising Freight Costs: The persisting Red Sea crisis, along with other geopolitical
tensions, has led to a significant increase in freight costs. Sea freight costs have surged by
about 100%, while air freight costs have escalated by up to 200%. These steep increases in
transportation costs have added to the overall expenses of exporting textiles from India.
Higher transportation costs make Indian products less competitive in the global market,
impacting export volumes and profitability.
4. Economic Slowdown in Western Economies: Recessionary trends in some Western
economies, such as parts of Europe and North America, have contributed to a decline in
consumer spending. As consumers prioritize essential purchases over discretionary spending,
demand for textiles and apparel has dwindled. Reduced consumer confidence and economic
uncertainty have dampened import demand for Indian textiles, particularly value-added
garments, leading to a decrease in export volumes.
5. Reduced Demand for Value-added Garments: The textile sector, particularly the
segment encompassing value-added garments, has witnessed a decline in demand from key
markets such as the US and Europe. Customers in these regions are prioritizing basic
necessities over luxury and fashion items. As a result, the demand for high-end and
value-added garments has dwindled, impacting India's export volumes and revenue from the
textile sector.
Data Insights:
● Export Decline: In the fiscal year 2023-24, India's textile exports amounted to $34.4
billion, marking a decline of over $1 billion (3%) compared to the previous fiscal
year. Furthermore, exports witnessed a significant drop of 16.3% compared to the
fiscal year 2021-22, when the country reported exports worth $41 billion.
● Export Composition: Within the textile sector, the segment encompassing cotton
yarn, fabrics, made-ups, and handloom products witnessed a notable year-on-year
increase in exports by $740 million in 2023-24 over the previous year. This increase
was attributed to a surge in cotton yarn exports.
● Export Destinations: North America led total textile exports at $11 billion, followed
by Europe at $10 billion, and West Asia and North African countries at $4 billion.
These regions are key export destinations for Indian textiles and apparel products.
● Sector-specific Decline: In the segment of readymade garments, which accounts for
42% of combined textile exports, there was a 10% decrease in fiscal year 2023-24
compared to the previous year.
● Regional Impact: The textile hub of Tirupur, known for its knitwear, faced a notable
decline in exports from $4 billion in fiscal year 2021-22 to $3 billion in fiscal year
2023-24. Reduced demand for value-added garments in the US and Europe was cited
as a primary reason for this decline.
Current Landscape of India
● Market Size: With a population of over 1.4 billion, India offers a vast and diverse
consumer base. This large domestic market provides significant opportunities for
businesses to cater to varied consumer preferences and needs.
● Growing Middle Class: The expanding middle class, projected to reach 580 million
by 2025, increases domestic consumption and drives demand for a wide range of
goods and services.
● Urbanization: Rapid urbanization is creating new markets and increasing the
purchasing power of urban consumers. By 2030, it is expected that 40% of India's
population will live in urban areas, further boosting domestic demand.
● Skilled Labor: India has a substantial pool of skilled labor available at competitive
wages, making it an attractive destination for labor-intensive industries. According to
the Ministry of Skill Development and Entrepreneurship, over 10 million individuals
are trained annually through various skill development programs.
● Lower Unemployment Rate: Compared to Vietnam, India has a lower
unemployment rate, which stands at around 7.8% as of early 2024, according to the
Centre for Monitoring Indian Economy (CMIE). This means that a stable and
available workforce can support industrial growth.
● Young Population: With a median age of 28.4 years, India has one of the youngest
populations globally, ensuring a long-term supply of workforce for its growing
industries.
3. Samarth Initiative
The Samarth initiative, led by the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, is a key skill
development program for the textile sector. It serves as a flagship initiative aimed at
enhancing industry skills.
● This scheme, both demand-driven and placement-oriented, covers the entire textile
value chain, excluding spinning and weaving. Its primary goal was to train 10 lakh
individuals skillfully from 2017 to 2020.
● With a significant impact on the textiles and garments industry, employing 45 million
people, Samarth plays an important role in supporting this labor-intensive sector in
India.
● Samarth adopts an all-around approach, targeting both the organized and traditional
sectors. It includes special requirements for upskilling and re-skilling programs and
handling diverse skill development needs.
● The scheme is especially dedicated to uplifting women, with over 85% of its
beneficiaries being women. This focus on gender inclusivity aligns with broader
societal goals.
● A remarkable achievement lies in the scheme's organized-sector courses, which boast
a placement rate of over 70%. Underscoring its effectiveness in translating training
into meaningful employment opportunities.
● Implemented through Implementing Partners (IPs), the scheme works with a strategic
vision, aiming to create a skilled workforce, improve job creation, and promote the
overall growth and competitiveness of the Indian textile industry.
● Samarth is operational until March 2024, marking a notable stride towards capacity
building and skill development in the textile sector. Its enduring impact extends
beyond mere training, contributing to the industry's sustainable growth.
Created in 2020, the National Technical Textiles Mission (NTTM) unfolds over four years,
focusing on improving technical education, promoting research and innovation, promoting
market growth, and simplifying objectives.
6. IndiaTex
Trade Agreements:
The ASEAN-India Free Trade Area (AIFTA) has significantly benefited India since its
establishment in 2009. By reducing tariffs and trade barriers, AIFTA has boosted India's
exports, particularly in pharmaceuticals, textiles, machinery, and IT services, while also
providing access to competitively priced imports from ASEAN countries. This has diversified
India's trade portfolio and reduced production costs for manufacturers. Increased foreign
direct investment (FDI) from ASEAN has spurred economic growth, job creation, and
technology transfer, enhancing India's industrial productivity and workforce skills. The
agreement has also strengthened India's regional ties and strategic positioning, supporting its
"Act East" policy. Overall, AIFTA has improved India's competitiveness, economic
resilience, and consumer choice, contributing to a more robust and diversified economy.
The Asia Pacific Trade Agreement (APTA), also known as the Bangkok Agreement, includes
Bangladesh, India, Laos, China, Mongolia, South Korea, and Sri Lanka. Established with the
key objective of hastening economic development among participating countries, APTA
focuses on trade and investment liberalization covering merchandise goods and services. The
agreement aims to boost intra-regional trade and strengthen economic ties by reducing tariffs
and other barriers, thereby promoting greater economic integration and cooperation among
member countries.
The South Asian Free Trade Area (SAFTA) aims to reduce customs duties on all traded
goods to zero, promoting economic integration among South Asian countries. SAFTA
categorizes Bangladesh, Bhutan, Maldives, and Nepal as Least Developed Contracting States
(LDCs) and India, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka as Non-Least Developed Contracting States
(NLDCs). The agreement outlines a phased tariff liberalization program, under which
NLDCs will reduce tariffs to 20% in two years and further to 0-5% in five years, while LDCs
will reduce tariffs to 30% in two years and to 0-5% in eight years. This phased approach aims
to accommodate the economic capacities of different member states, fostering regional trade
growth.
India-Australia CEPA
- Target Emerging Markets: Beyond the USA and EU, India should focus on
expanding into emerging markets in Africa, Latin America, and the Middle East.
These regions are experiencing economic growth and increased consumer spending
on apparel. According to the World Bank, Sub-Saharan Africa's GDP is projected to
grow at 3.3% in 2024, indicating increasing purchasing power.
- Strategic Trade Agreements: Leverage existing and future trade agreements with
countries like the UAE and Australia to gain preferential access and reduce tariffs. For
instance, the Comprehensive Economic Partnership Agreement (CEPA) between India
and the UAE, signed in 2022, aims to boost bilateral trade to $100 billion within five
years.
- Market Research and Development: Invest in market research to understand the
unique preferences and trends in various markets. Tailor marketing strategies and
product lines to suit regional demands. For example, focusing on lightweight and
breathable fabrics for tropical climates.
- Scale and Modernize Units: Encourage the establishment of large-scale weaving and
processing units equipped with the latest technology. This can be facilitated through
financial incentives, low-interest loans, and public-private partnerships. China's textile
industry, which heavily invests in technology, processed over 90 billion meters of
cloth in 2021, highlighting the importance of scale.
- Training and Skill Development: Invest in training programs for workers in
weaving and processing to enhance their skills and productivity. This includes
technical training, quality management, and modern production techniques. The
National Skill Development Corporation (NSDC) can facilitate these programs.
- Zero-Liquid Discharge (ZLD) Compliance: Provide financial and technical support
to smaller units to help them comply with environmental standards like ZLD. This
will improve the overall environmental footprint of the industry and enhance global
competitiveness.
- Strengthen Legal Framework: Enhance the legal framework to ensure swift and fair
enforcement of contracts. This includes setting up specialized fast-track courts for
commercial disputes and improving the arbitration process. According to the World
Bank, improving contract enforcement can increase investment by up to 14%.
- Build Trust in Local Markets: Develop a robust system of intermediaries such as
buying and sourcing agents who can bridge the gap between international buyers and
local manufacturers. This system should be backed by strong legal protections and
dispute resolution mechanisms.
- Design Innovation Hubs: Establish innovation hubs that focus on the latest trends in
fashion, design, and technology. These hubs can collaborate with fashion institutes,
designers, and tech companies to drive innovation. The Fashion Design Council of
India (FDCI) can play a pivotal role in this.
- Support for Startups: Provide funding and incubation support for startups in the
apparel sector that are working on innovative products and processes. This will foster
a culture of innovation and entrepreneurship. Government schemes like Startup India
can be leveraged to support these initiatives.
Data Insights
- Global Market Trends: According to the World Trade Organization (WTO), the
global textiles and apparel trade was valued at $871 billion in 2021, with apparel
accounting for over 60% of the trade. India's share was approximately 4%,
highlighting the potential for growth.
- Export Growth Potential: The global apparel market is expected to grow at a CAGR
of 5.1% from 2021 to 2026, reaching a value of $1.8 trillion by 2026. India can
capitalize on this growth by enhancing its production capabilities and market reach.
- Cost Competitiveness: Boston Consulting Group (BCG) reports that the average
landed cost of Indian-made goods imported into the US is 15% lower than US-made
goods. This cost advantage can be leveraged to increase market share in
price-sensitive segments.
Conclusion
In summary, the global apparel sourcing landscape is experiencing notable transformations
driven by various factors such as rising labor costs, geopolitical tensions, and evolving
consumer preferences. While the Asia Pacific region remains central to textile and apparel
production, there's a discernible shift towards diversification in the sourcing base, with
countries like Bangladesh, Vietnam, and India gaining prominence alongside traditional
leaders like China. Additionally, emerging markets in Africa and Southeast Asia are
attracting attention as viable sourcing destinations. Sustainability and ethical sourcing have
become critical considerations, influencing sourcing decisions and supply chain practices.
Geopolitical tensions, particularly between the US and China, are prompting companies to
explore alternative markets and diversify supply chains.
Major fashion brands are diversifying their sourcing strategies to mitigate risks and enhance
resilience, with India emerging as a key beneficiary due to its competitive manufacturing
costs and diverse sector appeal. Geopolitical uncertainties and trade dynamics continue to
shape sourcing decisions, prompting companies to explore alternative markets. India's
growing prominence underscores the need for agility and strategic partnerships in navigating
the evolving global sourcing landscape.
India's competitiveness in the global apparel market can be significantly enhanced through a
comprehensive strategy encompassing various strategic initiatives. Diversifying export
markets to emerging regions like Africa and Latin America, leveraging strategic trade
agreements, and tailoring products to regional preferences are crucial steps. Strengthening
infrastructure and technology, particularly through modernizing production facilities,
establishing quality control labs, and adopting sustainable practices, will improve efficiency
and compliance with international standards. Furthermore, boosting the man-made fibre
(MMF) sector, enhancing weaving and processing capabilities, and adopting fast fashion
industry practices will enable India to meet global demands effectively. Simplifying fabric
supplies, promoting sustainable and ethical production, and fostering innovation and design
will further solidify India's position as a key player in the global apparel industry. By
implementing these initiatives, India can not only increase its market share but also contribute
to sustainable economic growth and development.
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