STEEL ROD SLINGSHOT TUTORIAL

Introduction
Starting out - The key tool for well-made metal rod slingshots is a rod
bender, be it a homemade version or one that was purchased. This tutorial is based on
the use of the “mighty rod bender” sold by BAC Industries (USA) for USD 45 (2018
prices), as shown on page 2. Whatever rod bender system you use, you will need a
separation of 25 mm (1 inch) between the large and small rod bender pins, and dies of
13 mm (0.51 inch), 19 mm (0.74 inch), and 38 mm (1.49 inch) respectively – or
corresponding bending pin separations on your bending platform. I would recommend
using dies to achieve rod bends without breakages or marks linked to friction between
the metal rod and the rod bending device used: dies rotate as you proceed with bending.

The right tools - bending 8 mm (0.31 inch) stainless steel (recommended metal) is a
very demanding task with a short rod bender: the more leverage you can get, the better
i.e. use a longer bending rod bender such as the BAC “jumbo rod bender”, or another
brand and design of your choice to reduce the forces and effort levels involved.

Accurate bending - creating a basic rig made of plywood or other suitable materials,
on which you can mark the correct bending angle lines, is also recommended for an
accurate result. The protractor will become your best friend during this project. Please
note that all measurements shown are metric: you may experience slight variations.

Time required - depending on your skills and experience, it takes approximately 1

hour to correctly bend an 8 mm stainless steel rod to form a slingshot frame. Accurate
bending is essential for the fork loops to ensure that the fluted wood inserts for flat bands
fit inside snugly: tight tolerances imply that no glue or other fixing method is needed
here. Making wood inserts (“attachment blocks”) for one slingshot takes around 1 hour
from start to finish, including varnishing. The wood grip will requires around 2-3 hours to
make, as rasping and filing a comfortable fit, sanding, and varnishing is involved.

Expect to spend between 4-5 hours to make a full size steel rod slingshot with flat
band “attachment blocks” and an ergonomic grip – depending on your skill levels and
tools available to you. These steel rod slingshots can handle even the most powerful flat
bands for ammo sizes up to 20 mm (0.78 inch) steel ammo.

Please note that there is also a YouTube tutorial video at the link shown below:

https://youtu.be/OZHQj9nu1XU

This tutorial document is divided into 3 main sections:

A. How to bend metal rods accurately to create well-made slingshot frames.

B. How to make wood inserts for metal rod slingshot forks to attach flat bands.

C. How to make an ergonomic wood grip for metal rod slingshots.

Steel rod slingshot tutorial © December 2018 Pebble Shooter 1

 MAKING A STEEL ROD SLINGSHOT FOR RUBBER FLAT BANDS

SECTION A
TECHNICAL DATA: Please note that you will need a rod bender for this project

STEEL ROD DIAMETER: 8mm stainless steel rod (recommended)

INITIAL ROD LENGTH: 50cm, final bent slingshot rod length = 46cm.
DIMENSIONS Height: 16 cm, width: 12 cm, fork width: 7 cm
ROD BENDER PINS GAP: 25 mm

The bending rod, its base in a vice, and a homemade rig to ensure accurate angles.

Steel rod slingshot tutorial © December 2018 Pebble Shooter 2

STEEL ROD SLINGSHOT – THE TUTORIAL SECTION

1. Carefully measure the center of the straight steel rod, and mark it off.
2. Measure 4 mm to the left of the center mark, and mark this off as well.
3. Place the steel rod parallel to the large bender pin at the 4mm mark to allow for
the subsequent loss in length resulting from the bending process.
4. Use the rod bender to bend the straight rod into a U-shape.

5. Use a vice to complete a perfectly perpendicular U-shape as shown.

6. Ensure that the rod ends of the U-shaped bend have the same lengths.

Steel rod slingshot tutorial © December 2018 Pebble Shooter 3

 7. Saw or file off excess length to obtain perfectly identical lengths of the U-shape
extensions: NB - this is crucial to ensure accuracy in the subsequent B, C, and
D bends of the steel rod slingshot frame being made.

The B-BENDS = measure 15.2cm between the rod tips and the large bender pin.

1. Make the clockwise B-bend at a 45-degree angle relative to the initial U-shape.
Very progressive bending is required to achieve precise angles. Stop bending
once the rod is parallel to the 45-degree angle marked off on the bending rig.
Now proceed with the other side.

The C-BENDS = measure 11.7cm between the rod tips and the large bender pin.

2. Make the clockwise C-bend at a 45-degree angle relative to the previous B-bend
(the C-bend should in fact be parallel to the initial U-shape bend forming the grip
of the slingshot). Very progressive bending is required to achieve precise angles.
Stop bending once the rod is parallel to the 45-degree angle marked off on the
bending rig. Now proceed with the other side.

The D-BENDS = measure 7.7cm between the rod tips and the large bender pin.

3. Make the final clockwise D-bend at a 180-degree angle to form the forks of the
steel rod slingshot. Very progressive bending is required to avoid over-bending.
The width between the 180-degree U-shaped open loop of the D-bend should be
14mm to allow for the wood attachment blocks to be inserted.

Steel rod slingshot tutorial © December 2018 Pebble Shooter 4

 1. Saw off 2cm of excess length on both sides of the steel rod at the forks, and
ensure that the rod tips at the forks are smooth: use a file and fine grit sandpaper
for this step.

2. The metal rod slingshot frame is now ready for the wood attachment blocks to be
inserted (see section B).

HOW TO MAKE A COMPACT STEEL ROD SLINGSHOT

The bending process involved is similar to that of the normal sized slingshot, except
for the C-bend, which requires the use of the 38mm die placed on the small rod bender
pin, and the 19mm die placed on the large rod bender pin (see the C-bend instructions).

TECHNICAL DATA

ROD DIAMETER: 6 mm, stainless steel, standard steel, or aluminium.

INITIAL ROD LENGTH: 35 cm, final bent slingshot rod length = 31 to 32cm.
DIMENSIONS Height: 10 cm, width: 9 cm, fork width: 5 cm

INSTRUCTIONS

1. Carefully measure the center of the straight steel rod and mark it off.
2. Measure 3mm to the left of the center mark, and mark this off as well.
3. Place the rod on the rod bending support at the 3mm mark to allow for the
subsequent loss of length resulting from bending the rod (Google “K”-factor)
4. Use the rod bender to bend the straight rod into a U-shape at the 3mm mark.
5. Use a vice to compress a perfectly perpendicular U-shape (page 2)
6. Ensure that the rod ends of the U-shaped bend have the same length (page 2)
7. Saw or file off excess length to obtain perfectly identical lengths.

The B-BENDS = measure 12.3cm between the rod tips and the large bender pin.

8. Make the clockwise B-bend at a 45-degree angle relative to the initial U-shape.
Very progressive bending is required to achieve precise angles. Stop bending
once the rod is parallel to the 45-degree angle marked off on the bending rig.
Now proceed with the other side.

Steel rod slingshot tutorial © December 2018 Pebble Shooter 5

The C-BENDS = measure 10.4cm between the rod tips and the large bender pin.

9. Place the 38mm die on the small rod bender pin, and place the 19mm die on
the large rod bender pin (for 8mm rods = see page 7). This will produce a
smaller fork width. Insert the slingshot frame as shown below. Separate angle
references need to be measured and marked on the rig.

Make the clockwise C-bend at a 45-degree angle relative to the previous B-bend (the C-
bend should in fact be parallel to the initial U-shape bend forming the grip of the
slingshot). Very progressive bending is required to achieve precise angles. Stop bending
once the rod is parallel to the 45-degree angle marked off on the bending rig. Now
proceed with the other side. Once completed, proceed as follows:

 Remove the 38mm and 14m dies.

 Place the 13mm die on the large bender pin.

The D-BENDS = measure 6.8cm between the rod tips and the large bender pin.

10. Make the final D-bend at a 180-degree angle to form the forks of the steel rod
slingshot. Very progressive bending is required to avoid over-bending. The width
between the 180-degree U-shaped open loop of the D-bend should be 14mm to
allow for the wood attachment blocks to be inserted.

Steel rod slingshot tutorial © December 2018 Pebble Shooter 6

Mini-slingshots with beech wood attachment blocks and rubber flat bands. The 8mm
aluminium version is shown with attachment blocks prior to filing and sand papering.

NB: Addendum for 8mm metal rod compact slingshots: C and D

The C-bends = use the 32mm die on the large bender pin and the 19mm die on the
small bender pin. Measure 9.9cm between the rod tips and the large bender pin.

The D-bends = measure 6.5cm between the rod tips and the large bender pin, and use
the 13mm die to make the clockwise bends for the 180º fork loops.

SECTION B

HOW TO MAKE FLAT BAND ATTACHMENT BLOCKS FOR STEEL

ROD SLINGSHOT FRAMES (8MM STEEL ROD FRAMES)

Material: A beech wood bar with a width of 15 x 30mm, minimum 10 cm length.

> Proceed as follow s for blocks for 8mm steel rod slingshots:

1. Mark the wood into sections of 3.5cm lengths by means of perpendicular pencil
lines (see the image below).
2. Mark off the center (17.5mm (35 / 2) for each 35mm length with pencil lines.
3. Name the center line as “0”.

Steel rod slingshot tutorial © December 2018 Pebble Shooter 7

NOTE: Key measurements (8mm steel rod): The gap between the U-shaped “D” loop is
14mm, whereas the rod diameter is 8mm. 14mm + 8mm = 22mm. 22 / 2 = 11mm.
NB: for 6 mm metal rod slingshots: 14 mm + 6 = 20 mm. 20 / 2 = 10 mm.

4. Mark off 11mm on each side of the center line marked as “0” with pencil lines.
5. Mark the lines to the left and right of the center line as “A” and “B”.
6. Mark off the exact center for lines “A” and “B” (thickness 15mm, 15/2 = 7.5mm).
7. Make a small hole with a nail at the 7.5mm center mark to prepare for vertical
drilling (8mm drill bit for large slingshot, 6mm drill bit for mini-slingshot).
8. Drill 8mm holes at the 7.5mm centers of lines “A” and “B” using a drill stand.

NOTE: Slow drilling with a wood drill bit and regular removal of the shavings help to
ensure a straight vertical hole, and also avoids friction-burning the wood.

9. Saw the wood section (image above) at the center-lines A and B of the holes
drilled into the wood for each 3.5cm section to create separate wood blocks (3cm
height, width 15mm), with fluted sides (or grooves) to enable each block to slide
between the U-shaped “D” bend.

10. File 1 groove of 6-8 mm width on each wooden block as shown.

Steel rod slingshot tutorial © December 2018 Pebble Shooter 8

(Step 10 continued)

11. File the upper ends of the inner fluted sides of the wood blocks to be placed
inside the D-bend for these to fit perfectly in the closed part of the fork bend.

Block placed inside the “D-bend”

12. Sandpaper for a smooth surface and finish the wood blocks with a water-based
wood varnish (optional)
13. Apply a second and third coat after superficially sandpapering the 1st & 2nd layer
of varnish with 320-grit sandpaper. This ensures a shiny quality finish.
14. Press the wood blocks into the D-bends with the help of a vise. Tight tolerances
ensure that these cannot move out of place, no glue is required.

Steel rod slingshot tutorial © December 2018 Pebble Shooter 9

 SECTION C
HOW TO MAKE AN ERGONOMIC GRIP FOR A FULL SIZE STEEL ROD SLINGSHOT

My slingshot grip is designed to fit between the inner U-shaped grip of steel rod
slingshots by means of fluted sides, which are created by drilling two separate vertical
holes in the wood, and subsequently sawing off the sections of wood that run parallel
above each hole, thus creating a fluted cavity for the wood grip to be inserted between
the steel rod grip section. This process does not require glue or other fixing methods, as
tight tolerances keep things in place. Alternatively, use a router to create fluted sides.

Materials and tools needed:

 A piece of round cut 5 cm diameter beech wood cut to 9 – 10 cm length.

 A power drill mounted on a drill stand, and an 8 mm diameter drill bit.
 A vice, wood saw, rasp, flat file, round file, and a hammer.
 Sandpaper (180 and 320 grit) and water-based wood sealant (optional).
 A dust mask, safety gasses, and suitable working gloves.

Step 1 – mark the center of the circular surface with the help of a protractor and a pencil.

Step 2 – Measure and mark where to drill two separate holes, taking into account the
width between the perpendicular steel rod sides of the slingshot frame U-shape grip, and
half of the width of the metal rod diameter e.g. U-shape inner width = 14 mm, steel rod
diameter = 8 mm, divide each by half = 7 + 4 mm = both 8 mm holes need to be drilled
at 11 mm from the center of the circular wood section (image below).

Steel rod slingshot tutorial © December 2018 Pebble Shooter 10

Step 3 – Use a sharp nail and a hammer to indent where you need to drill the holes.

Step 4 – Use a power drill mounted on a drill stand and drill two 8 mm holes.

Step 5 – Mark two parallel lines along the drilled holes, both on the upper flat surface
and along the sides of the wood section.

Go to the next page…

Steel rod slingshot tutorial © December 2018 Pebble Shooter 11

Step 6 – Saw along the lines running parallel on the sides of each hole as shown. Do
not saw beyond the upper level of each hole, as this is what forms the fluted sections to
hold the wood grip between the steel rod grip section. Use a thick screwdriver or a metal
rod to pry off the sawed wood section running parallel to each hole once you have sawn
far enough. Use a rasp to process the inner section of the cavities.

Step 7 – Ensure that the wood grip fits well between the U-shape grip section of the
steel rod slingshot: measure the gap between the slingshot U-shape, and the width of
the wood between the fluted sides of the wood grip. Use a round rasp with the correct
diameter to make minor adjustments in the fluted sides for a perfect fit.

Step 8 – With the wood grip section placed inside the steel rod slingshot grip, mark off
where to shape the thumb groove and hand palm rest on the rear side of the wood grip.
Use a rasp and a regular file to create the palm rest and thumb groove.

Step 9 – measure and mark off where to file four finger grooves on the grip (above right
image). A width of 2 cm for each finger groove is sufficient, but allow for a 5 mm edge for
both wood grip ends.

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Step 10 - Making the grooves: saw a 1 mm deep line for each groove, then use a flat file
to start of each groove, then use a rasp to create each finger groove and the thumb
groove according to your ergonomic specifications i.e. the grip should be comfortable for
a so-called “fist grip”.

Once the desired result is reached, and all edges have been rounded off, use 180 and
320 grit sandpaper (or finer) to smoothen the wood surface, and use a wood surface
finishing product of your choice: I used 3 coats of water-based wood sealant to obtain a
shiny finish, which involves using 320 grit sandpaper after the first and second coats
prior to painting on the product.

Step 11 – To insert the wood grip between the U-grip of the steel rod slingshot frame,
proceed as follows: start by inserting the grip with the palm of your hands. Placing the
slingshot on a hard surface, put a small piece leather or cloth on the upper surface of the
wood grip to protect it. Place a piece of scrap wood on top of the protective leather or
cloth, and hammer carefully on the scrap wood to push the wood grip into place. If the
dimensions are correct, it should fit inside the grip U-bend without difficulties.

Hint: the open upper section of the fork loops of the full-sized steel rod slingshot, with the
inserted flat band attachment blocks inserted, are suitable for rubber tubes.

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The final result after the effort
Full size and small size steel rod slingshots

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