Summer 2024

Display until August 1, 2024

RAINBOW
CANYON
Virginia City
Backcountry
Byways
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 SUMMER 2024
VOLUME 84, NUMBER 2
401 N. Carson St. • Carson City, NV 89701-4291
855-729-7117 • 775-687-0610
editor@nevadamagazine.com • nevadamagazine.com

EXECUTIVE EDITOR Megg Mueller

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Cory Munson
ART DIRECTOR Kippy S. Spilker
SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER Alexandria Olivares-Wenzel
ADVERTISING, FULFILLMENT, & CUSTOMER
SERVICE SPECIALIST Carrie Roussel, carrie@travelnevada.com

Photography: All photos not credited throughout are promotional images

or provided by Travel Nevada and Nevada Magazine staff including, See pg. 93
but not limited to, Susan Mowers, Megg Mueller, Cory Munson,
Alexandria Olivares-Wenzel, and Kippy S. Spilker.
2024 for categories,
Nevada Magazine & Visitor Guide is created and distributed by Travel Nevada, rules, and how
a division of the Nevada Department of Tourism and Cultural Affairs.
to enter this
year's contest!
Disclaimer: Advertisements in this publication do not constitute an offer for
sale in states where prohibited or restricted by law.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of editorial content without written
permission is prohibited.
Nevada Magazine & Visitor Guide (ISSN 0199-1248) is published quarterly
by the State of Nevada at 401 N. Carson St., Carson City, NV 89701-4291.

Copyright © 2024 State of Nevada

Discover some
of the best
stargazing in the
nation at Great
NEVADA DEPARTMENT OF
TOURISM AND CULTURAL AFFAIRS
Basin National
775-687-4322 Park on pg. 42.
info@travelnevada.com • travelnevada.com
CHAIRMAN Lieutenant Governor Stavros S. Anthony
DIRECTOR Brenda Scolari
DEPUTY DIRECTOR M.E. Kawchack
CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, TRAVEL NEVADA Rafael Villanueva
CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER, TRAVEL NEVADA Caroline Sexton
TRAVEL NEVADA MARKETING TEAM Ali Anderson, Tracie Barnthouse,
Keelie Cox, Gabriel Mortensen, Rachel Wright
avel
CREATIVE DIRECTOR, TRAVEL NEVADA Susan Mowers into the places Tr
Sink your teeth .
COMMISSIONERS: Fletch Brunelle, Donald Contursi, Mendy Elliott, to eat on pg . 54
Nevada staff love
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

Jill Lagan, Mike Larragueta, Tom Lester, Jane Moon, Rick Murdock,
Herb Santos, Jr., Judith Siegel

The information listed in Nevada Magazine & Visitor Guide

has been carefully compiled to ensure accuracy at the time of
publication. Information herein that was supplied by Nevada busi-
nesses is subject to change without notice. The Nevada Division
of Tourism cannot, and does not, guarantee the accuracy of all
information furnished and will not be responsible for omissions
or errors. The publisher assumes no responsibility or liability for
errors, changes or omissions in the guide. Responsibility for per-
formance of services will be with the individual businesses. The
Nevada Division of Tourism shall have no liability for any claims or damages incurred
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reader agrees to hold the department, its agents and employees harmless therefrom.
Visitors should verify hours and admission policies with destinations.

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2
 Everything Old
is New Again
Summer is here, so let the outdoor adventures
Get behind the
wheel on southern begin! For me, summer is all about the
Nevada's best mountains. I began snowshoeing last year,
byways on pg. 28. but that’s just to keep from going stir crazy
while I wait for hiking and mountain biking
weather. I appreciate the four seasons we have
in northern Nevada, but winter curtails my
outdoor activities quite a bit.
dazzling
Set your sights on One of the many things I love about living
bies
views with the Ru in Nevada is the diversity of outdoor recreation. I’ve ridden and
pg . 36.
Route Road Trip on wandered the mountains in all corners of the state, and there are so
many trails, trees, landscapes, and views to discover. That discovery
keeps renewing my desire to travel around Nevada, even when I feel
like I’ve been almost everywhere. I had the chance recently to visit
some places I’ve been to many times, but through a whole new lens:
a mountain bike tour from Caliente to Ely.
You can find more about that in this issue, but I mention this SCAN HERE
to remind all of our readers who live in the Silver State to keep
discovering. We all revisit our favorite places with good reason‚ but
FOR FREE
SUBSCRIPTION
maybe take someone who’s never been there to see it through fresh
eyes or take a chance on some place new. Nevada’s strength is in
the depth and breadth of experiences we have here. It’s time to get a
little out there.

ISSUE HIGHLIGHTS
Along with the mountain biking story, we have stories on a new Uncommon
Overnighter in historic Austin and a feature on one of our favorite Wild West
towns, Virginia City. The National Automobile Museum in Reno gets a spotlight
IT'S YOUR TURN. this issue, and you may be surprised how much there is to experience beyond
Use this QR code to the cool cars.
take our survey and tell
We have two great history stories for you, too. One is on the ghost town of
us what you like/don’t
Mazuma which was wiped out by a desert flood, and the other is how Basques
like about the guide
in southern Nevada created a community over the game of jai alai.
AND what you’d like
to see in future issues! If you are also itching to get outdoors, read our stories on stargazing at Great
Basin National Park, the opportunities in must-see Rainbow Canyon, and what
awaits at Echo Canyon State Park.
I hope you enjoy our Summer issue, and as always, we’d love to hear from you
about your Nevada experiences!
SUMMER 2024

Enjoy!

Megg Mueller, Executive Editor

3
 TALK TO US
SILVER STATE SOCIAL
Join Seattle-based outdoor traveler (and proud dog
mom) @foxandpines as she discovers history and stunning
scenes on the Lake Tahoe Loop.

Genoa Canyon Waterfall Trail

Nothing beats warm days,

paved trails, fresh air, and an
endless sea of greenery.

Dangberg Home Ranch Historic Park

The perfect picnic spot, and its museum
RENO
has the oldest known pair of Levi’s.

Virginia City

East Shore Trail

& Sand Harbor

CARSON CITY
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

Genoa

Dangberg Ranch

4
 Sand Harbor State Park
Enjoy a summer beach vacation
with alpine vistas.

Lake Tahoe’s East Shore Trail

Run, walk, or bike along a

3-mile paved trail that offers
dazzling views of the world-
renowned lake.

FOLLOW US FOR TRAVEL INSPIRATION

OR TO DISCOVER YOUR FAVORITE
SILVER STATE ADVENTURER.
@TRAVELNEVADA /TRAVELNEVADA
@TRAVELNEVADA /TRAVELNEVADA Virginia City

This Wild West to

SUMMER 2024

wn is home to
historic saloons, ha
unted hotels, and
silver mines that yo
u can tour.

5
 TO BOISE TO TWIN FALLS

Denio McDermitt Jackpot

Mountain City Jarbidge

BLACK
ROCK
DESERT Wells

Winnemucca
RYE PATCH Elko
RESERVOIR Lamoille West TO SALT LAKE CITY
Gerlach Wendover
Jiggs
Battle
TO BOISE TO TWIN FALLS
Mountain
Denio McDermitt RUBY Jackpot
PYRAMID Mountain
LAKE City Jarbidge
LAKE Lovelock

TO SAN FRANCISCO
BLACK
LAHONTAN ROCK
RENO RESERVOIR
DESERT Wells

Fallon Winnemucca Eureka

Virginia City
Austin
RYE PATCH Elko Ely TO SALT LAKE CITY
RESERVOIR Lamoille West
Gerlach Wendover
Kingston
carson city Battle
Mountain
Jiggs
Baker
Genoa
Yerington Schurz RUBY GREAT
Minden PYRAMID
LAKE
LAKE BASIN
WALKER Lovelock
Gardnerville TOPAZ LAKE NATIONAL
LAKE PARK
TO SAN FRANCISCO
LAHONTAN
RENO
Hawthorne RESERVOIR
Fallon Eureka
Virginia City
Austin Ely

Tonopah Kingston Pioche

carson city Baker
Genoa Panaca
Yerington Schurz GREAT
Minden Rachel BASIN
WALKER
Gardnerville NATIONAL
TOPAZ LAKE Caliente
N ev a d a
LAKE PARK

Alamo
Hawthorne
DEATH
VALLEY
Road trip capital NATIONAL
PARK
of the USA Beatty
Tonopah Pioche
THE HEART OF Rhyolite Mesquite
Panaca
THE WEST Rachel
Self-anointed? Perhaps.
But no one else can las Caliente

compete with OREGON

our DEATH
vegas LAKE
Alamo

IDAHO VALLEY MEAD

stunning scenery, our NATIONAL
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

PARK
Pahrump Beatty TO PHOENIX
oddball characters, our THE HEART OF Rhyolite Mesquite
HOOVER DAM
outdoor freedom, our THE WEST Boulder City
UTAH Primm
intriguing towns, Cand
A las
LI
FO vegas
the miles and miles of R
OREGON LAKE
MEAD
N IDAHO
all-to-yourself roads I A TO LOS ANGELES
Pahrump TO PHOENIX
HOOVER DAM
connecting them. And ARIZONA
Boulder City
Laughlin
we've mapped out plans C
A
UTAH Primm
LI
to help you see all of it. FO
R
N
IA TO LOS ANGELES
To get your head
ARIZONA
around all the options, Laughlin
turn to pg. 100.

6 #NVROADTRIP
 SPOTLIGHT FEATURES
10 Did You Know? 36 Road Trips
Railroads and Trains Rubies Route

11 Note from the Lieutenant Governor 42 Nature

Stargazing and astronomy at
12 Eye Candy Great Basin National Park
16 Uncommon Overnighters 48 Fast Friends
Magnolia Gallery & Inn
Jai alai and the Basque community
20 State Parks in Las Vegas
Echo Canyon State Park
54 Cravings
24 Museums Staff-favorite restaurants
National Automobile Museum
62 History
28 Only In Nevada A cloudburst wipes out the
Backcountry Byways town of Mazuma

32 Nevada Magazine Archives

The Mysterious Mr. Mars 36
28
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

8 Top of page: Charyn McDonnell (Clark County Rodeo),

Sandra Whitteker (Nevada State Fair, Truckee River kayaker, Stewart Father's Day PowWow)
 Boy, do we love summertime in Nevada.
Every corner of the state bustles with
activities, events, and the chance to get a
little out there in our wide-open spaces. From
stargazing to road trips to great places to eat,
this is the season to make some memories.

N e v a d a M a g a z i n e . c o m | Tr a v e l N e v a d a . c o m | S u m m e r 2 0 2 4
COVERS Summer 2024
Display until August 1, 2024

Front and

CONTENTS
Back: A Clear your mind:

hiker in
Leave stress behind.
Breathe deep—maybe
Spot a bighorn sheep.
Climb to new heights;

beautiful Enjoy starry nights.

Let your soul be bare.
RAINBOW
Go on. Get a little out there. CANYON
Rainbow Virginia City
Backcountry

Canyon. Byways

Photographer: C2 Photography

PLANNING GUIDE
68 Arts & Culture 96 Events Calendar
The Nevada Art Council’s
98 State Museums Directory
Fellowship Program
99 State Parks Directory
74 Rural Wranglers
Explore the Comstock in Virginia City 100 Road Trips Directory
80 Outdoor Recreation 102 Recreate Responsibly
Take a week-long bike tour
from Caliente to Ely
THE FINAL WORD
88 Rainbow Canyon
A favorite daytrip drive down 104 Kutoven Stevens
a colorful canyon A conversation with the
founder of the Remembrance Run

80 104
SUMMER 2024

9
 spotlight did you know?
Like much of the West, Nevada’s industrial development came about because of trains.
Sparks, Elko, Winnemucca, Hawthorne, and Caliente were all founded as railroad towns, and
before the locomotive arrived in Las Vegas in 1904, the valley was little more than ranchland.
Nevada’s rail lines carted gold and silver from some of the West’s richest strikes, built desert
metropolises, and helped build Hoover Dam.

DID YOU KNOW?

RAILROADS AND TRAINS

Waiting with mail for
Established in 1869, the historic the train to Reno in
The historic government railroad
Virginia & Truckee (V&T)
line that transported material to Carson City circa 1940
Railroad transported The
HOOVER DAM was dismantled in
Comstock Lode’s bullion from Before the V&T,
1963. Much of that line was converted
Virginia City to Carson City—a fulfilling the

21
into the biking-and-hiking friendly
Historic Railroad Trail within Lake Comstock’s logistical
-MILE TRIP.
Mead National Recreation Area. needs required around

At its peak during the 1920s, the

Nevada Northern Railway saw Nevada’s first TRAIN
2,000MEN and
Ely’s NEVADA
NORTHERN
RAILWAY
serviced one of

32 12,000
ROBBERY was in 1870,
the largest copper
when robbers stole
mines in the U.S.
PASSENGER
TRAINS
a day. Students from
$750,000
(in today’s money)
ANIMALS
It remains one of
the best-preserved
railyards from the
surrounding communities even 10 miles west of Reno. steam engine era.
commuted to school by train.

Nevada has an
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

OFFICIAL STATE LOCOMOTIVE: Nevada’s rail network peaked at

Engine No. 40
housed at the Nevada Northern Railway.
2,422 MILES

in length in 1914—­long enough to

span the width of the entire U.S.
Today, it’s around half of that!
The Silver State offers plenty of
recreational train rides on historic lines and engines:
NEVADA STATE RAILROAD MUSEUM (Carson City & Boulder City)
NEVADA NORTHERN RAILWAY (Ely)
V&T RAILROAD (Carson City)
10 Library of Congress (train station),
David Homen (Engine 40)
 FOSSILS, FESTIVALS,
and Everything in Between
With the temperature rising, there’s no better time to Columbian mammoths, dire wolves, American lions
explore some of the indoor activities the Silver State has to weighing more than 1,000 pounds, and giant ground sloths
offer. Nevada’s museums have an abundance of educational the size of a car. A
exhibits that are sure to feed the curious minds of children trip to Ice Age Fossils
and adults alike. State Park is a “bone-
a-fide” good time.
Feel the past
come to life while Apart from the state’s
wandering the museums and parks,
Nevada State a couple of highlights
Museum in Las this time of year are
Vegas! Learn the outdoor concerts
about our state’s and spectacular events held throughout the state.
rich cultural
On July 14, you won’t want to miss the Sierra Nevada
and natural
Lavender & Honey Festival in Reno. Along with craft
history, from the
vendors and specialty foods, the festival also features live
construction of
entertainment and honey tasting. Enjoy a glass of honey
Hoover Dam to rhinestone-studded showgirls, mobsters,
wine or a lavender lemonade—all sourced from local and
and Ol’ Blue Eyes himself. Visitors will also discover how
regional growers and beekeepers.
geology shaped the Great Basin and learn about the ancient
flora and fauna that inhabited the massive sea which once I’m proud to serve as Nevada’s lieutenant governor, and I’m
covered Nevada. grateful to have the opportunity to highlight the people and
places that make the Silver State America’s most exciting
Speaking of prehistoric life, I was honored to be a part of
vacation destination. Whether you’re looking to take a
the opening ceremonies and ribbon cutting for Nevada’s
break from southern Nevada’s triple-digit temperatures,
newest state park earlier this year. Located just 20 minutes
explore one-of-a-kind festivals, or experience ancient
from the Las Vegas Strip and covering 315 acres, Ice Age
history, you’ll find there is something for everyone here.
Fossils State Park has one of the largest and most diverse
collections of Ice Age-era fossils ever discovered. The No matter if you’ve lived here all your life, just moved, or
park also features interpretative hiking trails that lead to are simply visiting—I encourage you to hit the road and
fossil beds, archaeological dig sites, art sculptures, and an explore everything this great state has to offer.
engaging visitor center.
SUMMER 2024

At Tule Springs Fossil Beds National Monument, which

borders Ice Age Fossils State Park, archaeologists Stavros S. Anthony
discovered evidence of extinct mammals including Lieutenant Governor
Chairman, Nevada Commission on Tourism
ltgov.nv.gov
11
 JARBIDGE WILDERNESS
Ryan Salm captured this image after
a steep hike to Jarbidge Lake. “A
hard rain had just subsided, and the
mosquitos flocked like birds as we
stoked the fire. I fired up the stove for
some hot drinks, then we kicked back
and waited for the night.”
Canon 5Dmkiii, .4 sec, f/9, ISO 100
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

12
spotlight EYE CANDY

SUMMER 2024

13
 OTHERWORLDLY FLORA
Steve O’Melia captured this May
storm as it rolled over Red Rock
Canyon near Las Vegas. “The
thought occurred to me that the
Joshua tree seed pods resembled
aliens,” he says.
Nikon D750, 1/400 sec,
f/9, ISO 1000

DUNE AND DOG

“My Australian shepherd Layla was
trotting in the early morning light at
Big Dune—located outside of Beatty,”
says Sara Dudo. “Layla was struck by
the heavy shadows and barked at the
movement of small grains that fell
around her feet while she was still.”
Nikon D7500, 1/1000 sec,
f/5.6, ISO 125
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

14
spotlight EYE CANDY FLOWER FIELD
“At Cobb Creek—near Bald Mountain—
flowers fill the fields along the ATV trails
in late June and early July,” Nikita Williams
says. “My family spent a weekend in
Mountain City, filled with rides, sightseeing,
and scouting for the coming hunting season.
It’s a beautiful area hidden deep in the hills.”
iPhone 12, 1/5800 sec, f/1.6, ISO 32

SUMMER 2024

15
 Uncommon It’s no secret that Nevada offers world-renowned hospitality at lavish resort-
casinos. But in the Silver State, our quirks are also our perks. If you’re looking

Overnighters for a vacation that’s irresistibly different, Nevada’s array of unique retreats
and unusual accommodations have got you covered.

Magnolia
Gallery & Inn
Enjoy a suite stay in a historic building
renovated for comfort and charm.
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

16
spotlight Uncommon Overnighters

BY RACHEL WRIGHT

The "Loneliest Road in

America" is anything
but, and smack dab in
the middle of this famed
road trip across Nevada
lies the welcoming
community of Austin. The
town sprang to life during
a silver mining rush in
the 1860s, and the Austin
of today features stately
19th-century buildings,
intriguing historic sites, and
access to remarkable outdoor
recreation. Take advantage
of everything the area has
to offer and let the charming
Magnolia Gallery & Inn serve
as your adventure basecamp.
The Magnolia Gallery & Inn was
originally constructed in 1864—the same
year Nevada became a state—and has
had many past lives. The building has
been a brothel, a grocery store, a saloon,
a music store, and an ice cream parlor.
Now, proprietors Laurian Arbo and Ken
Merkes are honored to add another
chapter to the story.
"The building captured our hearts,
and we felt that we could refurbish it,
add modern conveniences, and offer
an experience for travelers who enjoy
history and old buildings," Arbo says.

Don't forget
TRAVEL to peruse the
NEVADA gallery and curio
PRO TIP shop on the first
floor of the Magnolia Gallery &
SUMMER 2024

Inn for one-of-a-kind souvenirs,

ranging from paintings and local
photography to vintage collectibles
and handmade items.

17
 The renovated property features two bathroom in the Main Suite is the same size
spacious upstairs parlor suites available to as one entire bedroom and living quarters
guests traveling without children or pets. when the building operated as a brothel—
Settle into a cozy living room with plenty there were nine rooms on the second floor.
of comfy seating, or fully unwind in a queen As residents of Nevada for 25 years, Arbo
bed outfitted with soft sheets and plenty of and Merkes have explored extensively
pillows. Both suites also include a private and will happily share recommendations
bathroom and kitchenette with microwave, with travelers.
bar sink, and apartment-size refrigerator.
"The serenity and history of the area are
Arbo or Merkes will likely check you in, and what drew us to Austin," says Arbo. "We
history buffs and curious souls will delight in love the freedom and the recreational
the anecdotes they share about the storied opportunities, and we feel a deep
property. One such story? The size of the connection to the Old West in Nevada."
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

18
spotlight Uncommon Overnighters

DELIGHTFUL DIVERSIONS
Less than a mile from the
Magnolia Gallery & Inn, Stokes
Castle is a must-see stop on the
western edge of Austin. Follow
a short, winding dirt road to the
top of an overlook with sweeping
views of the Reese River Valley
and you'll find a three-story
stone structure built by a wealthy
mining and railroad magnate in
the 1890s.
Hikers and bikers can take
advantage of Austin's access to
the rugged and remote Toiyabe
Range, home to the Toiyabe Crest
Trail and the Austin-Toiyabe
Mountain Bike Trail Network.
Before leaving town, pop into
Jason's Art Gallery to shop
gorgeous turquoise jewelry of all
colors, some of which was mined
in the Silver State. The boutique
has rings, necklaces, bracelets,
and earrings, as well as crystals,
cabochons, beads, and antiques.
While overnighting at the
Magnolia Gallery & Inn, sate
your appetite at Grandma's,
the next-door restaurant that bills
itself as "Austin's living room."
Homemade pizza, tacos,
and salad (plus a full bar)
are extra satisfying after
a day of exploration.
Open seasonally in the
summer, Champs serves
up super tasty burgers
from a food truck.
SUMMER 2024

Magnolia Gallery & Inn is located

at 103 Main Street in the heart
of Austin and can be reached by
calling (775) 530-2241.

19
 spotlight STATE PARKS

Echo Canyon
State Park
Bite-size park in southeastern Nevada is your
personal Great Basin paradise.
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

Keith R Clark

20
 spotlight STATE PARKS

Echo Canyon State Park might

be one of Nevada's best-kept
secrets with its glittering
waterfront, scenic hikes, and
modern guest facilities.
From sunbathers to weekend warriors,
Echo Canyon's 70-acre reservoir offers
something for everyone. Boaters may
TRAVEL use the ramp (when water levels are
NEVADA high) but are also welcome to launch
PRO TIP from the shore. Anglers will encounter
a good population of rainbow trout
The visitor center stocked by the Nevada Division of
at nearby Cathedral Wildlife (always keep your Nevada
Gorge State Park fishing license handy whether fishing in
is the regional park the water or on shore).
headquarters and
Around the park, wildlife lovers and
the perfect place to
birdwatchers have plenty to keep
learn about the area's
them busy. Expect a diverse crowd
six state parks.
of waterfowl and shorebirds on the
SUMMER 2024

waterfront, including trumpeter swans.

You'll spot deer and raptors in the
surrounding meadows, and the canyon
offers a riparian habitat flush with
critters, cottonwoods, and cattails.

21
 spotlight STATE PARKS
You’ll find stellar night skies at Echo
Canyon, but for some of the best
stargazing in the nation, head to
Great Basin National Park on pg. 42.

In addition to its bounty of natural

resources, Echo Canyon State Park
boasts services for every style of camper.
The lower campground includes 33
sites, each with a gazebo, grill, drinking
water pump, and easy access to flush
restrooms. The RV campground has 20
full hookup sites—and a commanding
view of Dry Valley—with access to flush
toilets and an RV dump station.
The park includes an outdoor theater, a
group picnic area for up to 70 people,
and excellent trails. We recommend
taking the Ash Canyon trail, a winding
2.5-mile loop along the valley rim that
ends with a dramatic canyon view.

COMPASS POINTERS
En route to the park, you'll become
HOURS &
acquainted with some of Nevada's best
ADMISSION
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

farmland, where rolling hills, sleepy

Echo Canyon State cattle, and green alfalfa fields slowly
Park is open seven pass by on a winding country backroad.
days a week, 365
days a year. If arriving from the south, consider
Camping in the park taking Delmue Ranch Road, accessed
is available with utility via the town of Panaca. This quiet
hookups. All sites farming community—founded in
are first-come, the 1860s by Mormon settlers—is
first-served. a great place to stretch your legs or
stock up on supplies at the Panaca
Market. While in town, stop by Dream

22
 spotlight STATE PARKS

House Growers and Health, a boutique shop

that offers everything from apparel to baked
goods and local produce. If you decide that
Panaca is where you'd like to bed down for a
day or two—after all, Cathedral Gorge State
Park is just a 7-minute drive
away—you'll find excellent Want to add a bit more
accommodations at the Pine adventure (and history)
Tree Inn. to your visit? Check out
the Panaca Kilns, located
If arriving from the north, a 30-minute drive east
stop in Pioche for supplies of Panaca. This pair of
and a good meal at the massive ovens from the
THOMPSON'S OPERA HOUSE AND GEM THEATER IN PIOCHE
Historic Silver Café. Pioche 1870s provided charcoal
is a well-preserved relic for local mills.
of the Wild West. It's also
packed with history from its rowdy boomtown
years, which visitors can witness firsthand
at Boot Hill Cemetery and the Million Dollar
Courthouse. If you stay the night, check out the
Overland Hotel & Saloon for a themed room
and an evening at a classic Sagebrush Saloon.
HISTORIC SILVER CAF É
PINE TREE INN

Watch PBS Reno and

PBS shows anytime
and anywhere online,
YouTube or the
free PBS app.
TUNE IN • STREAM
BE A MEMBER
pbsreno.org • #PBSReno
 A WILD RIDE
One man’s driving passion is now Reno’s coolest collection.
BY MEGG MUELLER

Casino magnate Bill Harrah Harrah passed in 1987 and sadly made
had a bit of an obsession. no provisions for the collection in his
will. When Holiday Inn purchased
The man who launched the
the corporation in 1980, they also
Harrah’s gaming empire in inherited the cars and began to sell
1937 also had a penchant off the lucrative collection—but
for collecting cars, which led Reno and Sparks residents took up
to him eventually owning the cause to keep the cars together
in Nevada. Holiday Inn struck a deal
around 1,400 vehicles. During
that if money could be raised for a
his lifetime, his collection— museum, it would donate 175 cars.
often referred to as the most
The initiative succeeded and in 1989, BILL HARRAH, FRONT, IN 1975. THE CARS
significant assemblage of WERE GIFTS FOR HIS EMPLOYEES.
the National Automobile Museum
vintage and one-of-a-kind (NAM) opened in downtown Reno.
cars ever—was housed in Harrah’s collection quickly became
Sparks and open to the public. one of the city’s top attractions.
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

24
 spotlight Museums

FASTEN YOUR SEATBELTS

Wandering the museum’s exhibits,
autophiles will be entranced at
the more than 225 cars displayed
throughout the 105,000-square-foot
complex. Changing exhibits keep the
offerings fresh (and beg for repeat
visits), while the static displays divulge
a deep dive into automobile history.
Cars from 1897 to 2003 are presented in
Other champion vehicles await—think
gleaming style, revealing the beautiful
myriad speed record setters and race
craftsmanship of days past. With so
winners—along with a seriously fun
many of today’s vehicles looking rather
collection of celebrity cars. James
cookie cutter, it’s a treat to see the
Dean’s 1949 Mercury Coupe and Elvis’
wide range of details that were once a
1973 Cadillac Eldorado Custom Coupe
part of our driving machines (anyone
are two of the many you’ll find once you
remember hood ornaments?).
walk the red carpet into the collection.
Along with the plethora of beautiful Tip: Grab a prop and take a selfie with
vehicles, there are some historic cars the celebrity cut outs on the way in.
that should not be missed, starting
For kids, check out Guinevere, the van
with the original 1907 Thomas Flyer.
from the film “Onward,” or famed stock
Winner of the 1908 New York to
car Lightning McQueen from the movie
Paris Race around the globe, the car
“Cars.” These cars rotate frequently,
is featured in an exhibit that gives
but there’s always something for the
a fascinating look at the world’s
younger members.
enchantment with the new motorized
carriages and the tenacity of pioneer The museum excels at showcasing cars,
motorists. Six vehicles attempted the but it also does a great job creating Membership at the National
SUMMER 2024

almost-inconceivable race, and only the perfect vibe to match its amazing Automobile Museum is the
three finished, with the Thomas Flyer assemblage. Every collection has a perfect way to stay up on all
crossing the finish line 26 days before particular feel, with art, props, signage, the changing exhibits for a
the next car. and more helping to set the scene. low annual price.

25
 THE ROAD AHEAD
A $3 million renovation to refresh the
museum and its environs is underway.
From revamping displays to building a new
events center (now the largest venue on
the Truckee River), NAM is keeping its eye The new outdoor venue is another way
on the future, not just its historic past. to attract visitors, and it’s also to help
local nonprofits; MacDougall knows how
One of the issues Executive Director Phil
much venues can cost to rent, and he’s
MacDougall is keen to address is the oft-
committed to helping the local community
heard comment, “I’ve been there once, so
have an affordable place to showcase their
why go back?”
events. He wants the museum visited,
While most of the collection is static, enjoyed, and used as a place for education.
new vehicles are brought in on a regular, A new speakers series debuted last year,
rotating basis, he explains. MacDougall with Jeremy Renner
is also excited about new programming of the car-focused
for children and families. The renovations “Rennervations”
include a newly expanded Kids Interactive Disney+ show as
Center with fun activities. It’s also a place the kickoff speaker.
kids can take child-focused (read: fun)
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

classes on auto-related subjects.

26
 spotlight Museums

PUT THE PEDAL DOWN

An afternoon at the National Automobile
Museum delivers a nostalgic experience.
MacDougall says when he meets guests,
he’ll often ask them what their first
car was, and almost everyone smiles
remembering that first ride. Cars are
an incontrovertible part of American
culture, and these beautifully maintained
machines thrill all who see them, whether
they are into car culture or not. The next
time you’re in downtown Reno, motor
over to the museum and fuel up on some
gorgeous Americana.

PUT IT IN DRIVE
National Automobile Museum
Open daily
775-333-9300

ElyNevada.net

WHERE WILL
YOUR NEVADA
STORY TAKE YOU?
TE
SEVEN UNIQUE MUSEUMS ACROSS THE STA
BECOME A MEMBER FOR FREE
ADMISSION TO ALL 7 STATE MUSEUMS.
Visit NVMuseums.com for museum
locations, exhibits, & events.
 southern nevada’s
scenic drives
Put the pedal to the metal As the seventh largest state,
Nevada offers plenty of
for these mini road trips. backroads and byways to
BY SUSAN MOWERS choose. Not only that, it's also
one of the most geologically
diverse states. Where else could
you drive through mountains
filled with forests of evergreens,
valleys covered in a sea of
sagebrush, and a strip of neon
castles seen from space? Get
behind the wheel and discover
why Nevada is known as a land
of contrasts.
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

MT. CHARLESTON

28
 SPOTLIGHT ONLY IN NEVADA

LAS VEGAS BOULEVARD

3.41 miles
Take a trip through Las Vegas
history on this National Scenic
Byway. Starting near the Old
Las Vegas Mormon Fort State
Historic Park and ending at
The STRAT Hotel, Casino &
Tower, you’ll view everything
that makes Vegas, well, Vegas.
With its retro motels, wedding
chapels (a classic staple), Las Vegas Strip
vintage neon, and the tallest TRAVEL 4.5 miles
freestanding structure west NEVADA
PRO TIP Believe it or not, the Las Vegas Strip is also
SUMMER 2024

of the Mississippi River, this

an official scenic byway! With one of the most
drive shows you why no other
concentrated collections of neon lights in the world,
city can replace Las Vegas.
it’s like viewing Christmas lights on steroids. The
Strip is so illuminated, in fact, that NASA reports
it may be the brightest spot on Earth.
Robert Adamo (motorcycle)

29
 SPOTLIGHT ONLY IN NEVADA

VALLEY OF FIRE SCENIC BYWAY

10.5 miles
Take in the southern Nevada desert in all its
breathtaking glory on this scenic drive through
Valley of Fire State Park. An inconspicuous
winding road at first, this drive sneaks up on
you. Suddenly, you are led through canyon
after canyon of gigantic, red boulders, every
turn offering another picture-perfect scene. VALLEY OF FIRE STATE PARK
This state park is best visited in the shoulder
seasons, out of the infamous southern Nevada MT. CHARLESTON SCENIC BYWAY
heat. If you do choose to go in the summertime,
36 miles
this scenic byway is a perfect way to enjoy
Valley of Fire—all from the comfort of an air- Those who’ve frequented Nevada know that
conditioned car. we’re a mountainous state. In fact, the Silver
State boasts the most mountain ranges in
the Lower 48, with more than 300. There’s
no shortage of amazing mountain routes,
and Mt. Charleston is one of our favorites.
Part of the Spring Mountains west of Las
Vegas, Mt. Charleston is great to visit during
any season—though be prepared for snow
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

in the winter (take a detour and head to

nearby Lee Canyon for some skiing). You’ll
see various vegetation as you climb up the
mountain, from sagebrush and Joshua trees
to evergreens like juniper, ponderosa pine,
and white fir.

TRAVEL Mt. Charleston has an altitude of

NEVADA 7,500 feet, so stay hydrated and
PRO TIP beware of altitude sickness.

30
@thewildindiangirl & @michaelmatti (Valley of Fire roads)
Robert Adamo (motorcycle), @richmoorephoto (Whitney Pockets)
 SPOTLIGHT ONLY IN NEVADA

GOLD BUTTE
BACKCOUNTRY BYWAY
62 miles
This extremely remote road
traverses Gold Butte National
Monument, a stunning
slice of pure Mojave Desert
backcountry. Motor past
colorful sandstone, thousands
of ancient petroglyphs, and
dreamlike formations at
Little Finland that seem
to ignite as the sun sets
over nearby Lake Mead.
A high-clearance vehicle
with four-wheel drive is a
must for this byway.

Cruise down
Rainbow Canyon—
one of our favorite LITTLE FINL
AND
unofficial backcountry
byways—on pg. 88.
WHITNEY POCKETS IN GOLD BUTTE
 At nevadamagazine.com, you’ll find great stories like this one,
which first appeared in our February 1985 issue.

THE MYSTERIOUS
When it comes to privacy, candy king Forrest Mars is positively
out of this world.
BY ROB POWERS
He lives, according to those who think they know, in a license plate proclaiming his wonderfulness. You’ll
distinctly inconspicuous penthouse above the Ethel M never find him hobnobbing with Nevada's rich and
candy factory, a neat-as-a-pin plant on the fringes of famous (among whom he ranks first in the former
Henderson that employs about 100 white-clad people category and last in the latter). He doesn't show up for
and boasts a meticulously maintained botanical garden ribbon cuttings, doesn't plug the opening of new Ethel
and cactus display. M retail outlets—there are five in southern Nevada,
four in northern Nevada, and others in California and
Ask visitors who have taken the self-guided tour of the
Arizona—and doesn't like to see pictures of himself
$6 million building if
in the paper
they've ever gotten a
shaking hands with
glimpse of him, and
the governor.
they’ll probably say
no. But then, they For that matter, he
wouldn't know Forrest doesn't like to see
Mars if he walked his picture in the
right up and offered paper, period.
them a bag of M&M’s.
Mars' first and only
As mysteries go, interview took
the King of Creamy place in 1966 with
Confections is a reporter named
roughly on par with Don Gussow.
the great pyramids Gussow was writing
of Egypt and the a story for a candy
Grand Canyon. The industry journal,
80-year-old Mars is “Candy and Snack.”
one of the 10 richest He had spent five
men in the world—a years trying to
conservative estimate get Mars to talk
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

of his worth is a with him. The fact

sweet $1 billion—but he did gained him a
he's not at all like certain amount of notoriety
many of his wealthy among his peers, although Gussow
counterparts in the Las maintained he had had better interviews.
Vegas Valley, the land of He once reminisced to another writer
conspicuous consumption. that he found Mars to be, surprisingly,
a "compulsive talker."
He doesn't drive down The
Strip in a chocolate-colored The sole published photo of the
Mercedes with a personalized candy magnate, taken of him
John Bardwell (illustration)

32
 spotlight nevada magazine archives
and never be bored. He's extremely
knowledgeable and very sharp."

MR. MARS
Dean Musser, an Ethel M executive
and longtime Mars confidant, is as
adept at handling questions about his
boss as a major-league shortstop is at
routine grounders. You see, every once
in a while, reporters still call to ask for
fox hunting on his sprawling Virginia estate some years
interviews. Why they bother anymore is something to
ago, ran in “Fortune” magazine last spring.
ponder. Perhaps it's in the hope that Mars, in his old
Only the blurriest of age, will forget he's so private and grant an audience.
images of Mars can Or maybe they dream that he will have awakened one
be formed today, morning and impetuously pledged to spill his life story
based on skimpy to someone.
information pried out
Sad to say, no such miraculous turn of events has
of loyal employees who
taken place.
would rather not have
their names divulged. "There's nothing I can tell you about Mr. Mars,"
Although Mars' reclusive Musser politely said during a recent interview, his
Forrest Mars, Sr. nature has prompted voice firm in tone and silky in resonance. "It's just
comparisons to Howard Hughes, "He doesn't have long that, from a private standpoint, he prefers to remain
fingernails, long hair, and tennis shoes," said one person private. It's been that way for many, many years."
who has seen him in recent months. "He's not very tall," Is it true Mars keeps a home in a penthouse above
the person said, adding that, Mars is "not frail at all" the factory? "We don't comment on where he or his
despite his age. family live."
"If you saw him walking down the street, there'd be Since it has been written before—and probably
nothing to indicate that he was anything other than an only because it has been written before—the Mars
ordinary person. Nothing to indicate he was number lieutenant did say that his boss is married and has
seven in the wealth chain." three children. Talking to them, or finding out where
they are, was another matter.
A cheerful woman who passes out free candy samples
at the Ethel M factory, when asked if she sees Mars Musser, who came to work for Ethel M upon its
often, smiled sweetly and said, "We're not allowed to opening three years ago, hasn't failed to learn the
say anything." Asked if she had ever seen him, she lessons in privacy taught by his leader. Asked about
wavered for a millisecond. Her glance shifted to a fellow his previous company assignments, he paused,
worker nearby, whose stone-faced look sealed it. End of choosing his words carefully. "I came here from Mars
an interview that never was. Inc.," he said slowly. "That's probably the best way to
leave it."
Mars, it's clear, is positively out of this world when it
comes to privacy. When the questions about Mars come, say, at a
cocktail party instead of from a reporter, is Musser
A few oft-told stories document the eccentricity of
any more generous with his information? (You knew
the man, his fanaticism for cleanliness, his passion for
the answer anyway.) But still the curious inquire.
perfection. Once, years ago, he found an improperly
wrapped bunch of candy bars and hurled all of them, "I suppose you develop ways to be responsive
one at a time, at a glass panel in the boardroom. Others without divulging any private matters," said the
see Forrest Mars as down to earth. professional killjoy.
SUMMER 2024

"He's probably one of the nicest individuals you'd Okay. No more questions about Mars. By the way,
ever want to meet," said Tim Carlson of Las Vegas, what's it like to work for him? Musser chuckled
former executive director of the Nevada Development softly. "After 30 some years you wouldn't expect me
Authority. "You could listen to his experiences for hours to have anything but good things to say, would you?"
Of course not.

33
 spotlight nevada magazine archives

If Mars' own story remains cloaked After three years in southern Nevada,
in a shroud of mystery as thick Mars began putting together what
as a coat of milk chocolate, Carlson called "a project he'd
that of the Mars empire is a always had in the back of his
matter of public record. The mind." At Mars' request, the
tale begins in 1911 in Tacoma, legislature changed state
Washington, when Frank Mars law to allow booze candy.
started selling confections (Kentucky is the only other
he concocted in the state that permits it.) He
family kitchen. formed Ethel M—named
after his mother, who died
That led to a factory,
a few months before the
which in turn led to a
plant opened—and brought
larger one in Minneapolis
trustworthy, reticent Dean
nine years later. In the 1920s
Musser out to Las Vegas to help
Frank Mars introduced the
him run it.
Snickers bar—one of the biggest-
selling candy bars in the world Why did a billionaire
today—as well as the Milky septuagenarian candy tycoon
Way. He opened a plant with absolutely nothing to
in Chicago in 1929, which prove in this world come to
continued to show a profit the parched Nevada desert
throughout the Depression. and build a $6 million
chocolate oasis?
Forrest Mars was largely
responsible for taking a prosperous The question is open to
company and, by diversifying its myriad answers. But perhaps
interests, turning it into an international the most plausible, considering
empire, a conglomerate with tentacles reaching the man in question, comes from
across several countries. Among the company's Jim Echeandia, one of the chocolate industry's top
interests are Unisabi and Mars of France, Master Foods analysts. Shortly after the plant opened, Echeandia told
of Austria, Mars Italia, and Effen of Belgium. a reporter, "Forrest Mars has, for his whole life, sought
excellence, and I think he is trying one last time to show
Mars formed the hugely successful M&M Candies
the candy world what excellence is. In an operation as
in 1940; the company then acquired Uncle Ben's
small as Ethel M, he can monitor everything and get it
a few years later and Kal Kan pet foods about 20
dead right."
years after that.
He can do that right from his penthouse above the
Mars Inc., the privately held company founded by Frank
buzz of activity in the factory, where workers busy
Mars, today boasts annual sales of about $3 billion.
themselves making raspberry truffles, honey almond
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

Forrest relinquished control of the corporation about

nougats, macadamia nut clusters, and those liqueur-
11 years ago to his sons, Forrest Jr. and John, who, like
filled delights.
their father, have never been accused of being publicity
hounds. But as the story goes, Mars, after five years on If he really does live there, that is.
his Virginia estate, realized he just hadn't gotten the
chocolate out of his blood.
A Sweet Stop
He retired to Las Vegas in the late 1970s with his mother Ethel M Chocolate Factory
Ethel. "He had a tremendous amount of love for her," 2 Cactus Garden Dr.
Carlson recalled. "He took care of her just like the old Henderson
times. He's a very traditional individual." (702) 435-2608
ethelm.com

34
 E XQ U I S I T E N AT U R A L B E AU T Y
D I S C O V E R I S WE L L WO R T H PRE S E RV I N G
North Lake Tahoe’s alpine blue waters and majestic
mountain peaks have drawn visitors and locals for
generations. With your commitment, we can protect and
preserve the natural wonders we all love for future
generations. Make a clear difference by preserving our
treasured spaces and leaving them better than you found
them. Be sure to pack out what you pack in, Drink Tahoe
Tap from a reusable bottle and properly dispose of trash.

Learn more about traveling responsibly

at GoTahoeNorth.com/NVTravel
 Features road trips

30-375 miles
2-5 days
#RubiesRoute
TravelNevada.com/Rubies-Route

SET YOUR

Dazzling
SIGHTS ON
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

TAKING IN THE VIEWS ALONG THE WAY TO ANGEL LAKE Anthony Montoya (mountain goat and dog)

36
 Road trips call to
those who seek a
little adventure in
their travels, and the
Rubies Route is a
jewel that sparkles
particularly bright
in the summer sun.

Views
With Elko as your hub,
you’ll have the choice
of three main spokes
that lead to scenic
slices of recreation-
packed paradise.

Explore Nevada's wild northeast corner

on the Rubies Route Road Trip.

SUMMER 2024

37
 Features road trips

ELKO TO LAMOILLE CANYON

AND THE RUBY MOUNTAINS
Regarded as the Swiss Alps of
Nevada, the Ruby Mountains’ craggy
peaks—capped by Ruby Dome at
11,387 feet—rise nearly a mile above
the valley floor. A 45-minute drive
puts you at the top of the Lamoille
Canyon Scenic Byway, where
spectacular trails offer everything
from afternoon jaunts to multi-
day thru-hikes on the Ruby Crest
National Recreation Trail. Whichever
you choose, you’re never far from
beautiful, trout-packed alpine lakes.
In winter, the byway generally closes
to cars and becomes a snowmobile
superhighway.
Elko’s hotels and motels offer all
the amenities, but closer to the
mountains are the rustic Hotel
Lamoille and two swanky Ruby 360
Lodge yurts—one high atop a Ruby
Mountain ridge, another tucked back
in the woods on a babbling brook.
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

ANGEL LAKE

Ruby Mountain Heli Ski (yurt photo)

38
ELKO TO RUBY VALLEY
AND ANGEL LAKE
Take the mostly unpaved Harrison Pass to
visit a bona fide Sagebrush Saloon, Jiggs
Bar, on your way to Ruby Valley. Afterwards,
drop into the valley toward Ruby Lake
National Wildlife Refuge, a nearly 40,000-
acre panorama of watery grandeur home to
hundreds of species of birds.
Just 12 miles from Interstate 80, head up
to the wildly picturesque Angel Lake via
another scenic byway to discover an aspen-
and wildlife-laden gem beloved by hikers,
fishers, campers, and stargazers.

Make a quick trip to

the photogenic ghost
town of Metropolis,
about 10 miles north
of Wells. Its tragic
demise involves
drought, infestations,
and a whole bunch of
dashed dreams.

SUMMER 2024

39
 ELKO TO JARBIDGE
The picture-perfect Jarbidge Wilderness
Area is one of the most remote corners of
the Lower 48. The dirt roads from Elko only
get plowed once a year (around July 4) and
can be snowed in as early as October. This
Wild West town (seasonal population: 11 to
100) was home to one of the last American
gold rushes—and stagecoach robberies. The
area draws campers, anglers, off-roaders,
shutterbugs, and nature-lovers. With all the
effort to get there and all the splendor waiting
at the end of the trail, we recommend an
overnighter at the Outdoor Inn.
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

40
 Features road trips
PLANNING CHECKLIST
Heading to Jarbidge requires planning. When the dirt road
is open—July through October, usually—the route is 105
miles one way and unpaved. If it’s closed, going through
Jackpot into Idaho and back down is 195 miles. If towing
vehicles or trailers, please note that the road on the
Nevada side has a 15 percent grade just before town.

SUMMER 2024

41
 Features Nature

Discover some of the nationʼs best

stargazing at Great Basin National Park.
BY CORY MUNSON

Nevadaʼs national park has many natural wonders.

NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

Its pristine caverns, bristlecone stands, and snow-

capped peaks attract tens of thousands of visitors
each year despite the parkʼs remote setting. Over the
past decade, however, this quiet corner of the state
has become famous for another—and increasingly
rare—natural resource: its near-perfect night sky.

42
 Features Nature

STAR SANCTUARY
Great Basin National Park has one of the darkest, As the bird flies, it is 45 miles to the nearest
most star-dense skies in the Lower 48. The park was community (Ely) and 100 miles to the nearest large
even designated a Dark Sky Park in 2016, an honor town (Cedar City, Utah). The nearest major metro
shared by a little more than 100 locations around areas (Las Vegas and Salt Lake City) are each more
the globe. During the summer—when views of the than 150 miles away, and their glow hardly appears
Milky Way peak—the parkʼs skies boast more on the horizon.
than 6,000 stars (half of that is considered
With practically no ambient light
optimal viewing) and the opportunity to
pollution—except for highly
glimpse galaxies like Andromeda and
regulated local light sources—
Triangulum with the naked eye.
Great Basin National Park
Why are the parkʼs views so notably offers a view of the heavens
stellar? One reason is its high desert that has remained
setting, where the air contains virtually unchanged
little view-blocking moisture. for millennia.
But the biggest factor is that
the park is very far from any
significant light source.

SUMMER 2024

Robert Adamo

43
 AD ASTRA
Everyone from amateur astronomers to
NASA scientists can point to data showing
that night skies are disappearing. Nearly 90
percent of Americans live in or near a city.
More cities mean more light pollution, which
means fewer stars. Many of us go months—or
years—without seeing the Milky Way, which GREAT BASIN ASTRONOMY FESTIVAL
is why sanctuaries like Great Basin National Sept. 5-7
Park serve an outsized role in preserving and One of the longest-running astronomy
presenting starry skies. programs in the park system, this family-
“Astronomy was not the primary reason Great friendly, three-day festival is all about
Basin National Park was created in 1986,” says celebrating the stars. Astronomy clubs,
lead astronomy ranger Bradley Mills. “It was organizations, and enthusiasts set up dozens
known as a dark place, but many places were of telescopes pointed at an array of celestial
dark back then. Now, itʼs become more special.” objects (including safe sun-viewing scopes
during the day). Rangers are on hand to
Millsʼ enviable title carries many help, but the exciting weekend is run by
responsibilities like organizing programs volunteers and dedicated community support.
and training staff—including four seasonal
rangers. However, his favorite role by far is
when he gets to educate the public about all
things astronomy.
“Some people donʼt even stand up. They just
Three times a week during the summer,
sit and stare quietly. For many, this is the first
Mills stands before an audience of all ages
time theyʼve ever seen the Milky Way,” he
and backgrounds in the parkʼs astronomy
says. “There is something so primal about
amphitheater. The program—which starts
connecting to the night sky.”
around twilight—begins with a slideshow and
brief lecture. Then, 30 minutes later, Mills turns For the next hour, program participants gaze
off the projector, and guests look up to a sky through 11-inch Celestron telescopes which
now completely transformed. Mills describes were donated by the Great Basin National Park
the experience as magical. Foundation. Nebulae, stars, planets, galaxies,
the moon: All are open for exploration.
“I really love when we have kids and they see
something like fan-favorite Saturn and its rings
for the first time. Theyʼll ask if theyʼre looking
at a picture,” Mills says.
Millsʼ favorite subject is galaxies, which he
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

considers the perfect vehicle for demonstrating

spaceʼs incomprehensible vastness.
“I remember being blown away the first time I
saw the Whirlpool Galaxy,” he says. “Itʼs a little
speck—you canʼt see it with the naked eye—
but it's actually two galaxies, one consuming
another. Just imagine the stellar forces going
on in such an interaction. The idea that what
weʼre seeing happened millions of years ago is
something the human brain canʼt grasp.”

@jeremyjensenmedia

44
 Features Nature

RESEARCH GRADE “If you want to get time on a standard observatory,

The programʼs telescopes are excellent for guest youʼll submit your proposal and maybe get a
enjoyment, but the parkʼs star-searching technology response,” explains Mills. “Here, the answer is
doesnʼt stop there. In 2016, it became home to a almost always yes.”
state-of-the-art facility: the Great Basin Observatory.
Graduate and undergrad programs in Nevada and
The observatory—funded almost entirely through Utah make good use of the telescope, but itʼs not
SUMMER 2024

donations—is the first research-grade observatory just universities that use the high-tech tool. Younger
built inside a national park. Best of all, the 27.5-inch local students also access the telescope, including
telescope is remotely operated and available as a middle schoolers in Ely—some of whom now have
public resource. their names on published scientific papers.

45
 Features Nature

BACKYARD SCIENTISTS
Anyone remotely interested in high-
quality stargazing should make the trip
to Great Basin. However, rangers would
be the first to say that the parkʼs goal is
not to be a specialized vacation spot: It is
to inspire guests to look skyward in their “Reducing light pollution is achievable.
own backyard. We can all do little things like putting
outdoor lights on a timer and closing
“You donʼt need much to be an amateur
blinds. I encourage people to look at
astronomer,” says Mills. “Many folks
your home and ask how you can improve
think stargazing means getting an
things for your neighborhood. There are
expensive telescope, but thatʼs not
communities where people can see the
true. Even semi-rural areas are great
Milky Way while still having lights.”
for naked-eye observations, especially WANT MORE?
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

if you use a stargazing app. The next As Mills says, stargazing is a part of the
Check out Bradley
step is getting a pair of binoculars from human experience—likely one of our
Mills’ appearance
the thrift store. They make a heck of oldest pastimes. Studying the night sky
on the Star Talk
a difference even in places with light is powerful and humbling. It connects us
podcast, hosted
pollution, and youʼll be better equipped to our ancestors and introduces us to the
by acclaimed
than any human pre-Galileo.” wonders of our universe.
astrophysicist Neil
And, of course, Mills and his star rangers Next time you yearn for a spellbinding DeGrasse Tyson.
want guests to see that a brilliant view of the Milky Way, remember that
night sky doesnʼt have to be something at Great Basin National Park, you’ll have
relegated to a Dark Sky Park. some of the best seats in the house.
Michael Okimoto

46
 Features fast friends

Fast Friends
How jai alai
helped build
Las Vegas’
Basque
community.
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

48
BY MARK MAYNARD

Northern Nevada has been home to a thriving Basque immigrant community for more than
a century. In communities like Elko, Winnemucca, and Reno, locals and visitors frequently
gather at former boarding houses and 100-year-old restaurants for a family-style meal and
a potent Picon Punch cocktail. However, not all of Nevada’s Basque diaspora communities
have such a long-lived tradition.

SUMMER 2024

Lagun Onak Las Vegas Basque Club

(Clockwise from top left: 1992, 1999, 2012, 2013)
49
 Features fast friends

A DIFFERENT KIND OF DIASPORA AMERICAN DREAM IN THE DESERT

The Lagun Onak (Good Friends) Basque Club of “Growing up, I had a lot of pride in the game,” says Jose
southern Nevada is a more culturally isolated group of Echenique. His father came from Spain and was Josu
Basques. Unlike their northern counterparts—who owe Aldecoaotalora’s teammate at the MGM’s fronton. “I
their culinary and cultural heritage to generations of have memories as a child, in the locker room, watching
high-desert sheepherders, innkeepers, and cowboys— from the back.”
many of the founding members of Lagun Onak arrived
Echenique remembers growing up in “small Vegas”
in the neon-bathed casino town of Las Vegas in the
in the 1970s. His community was filled with jai alai
1970s and ‘80s as professional athletes.
players and their families who had immigrated from
Jai alai is the national sport of the Basque country. around the world.
A high-speed, ball-and-basket game, it is played on
a racquetball-like court called a fronton. The hard,
goatskin-wrapped rubber ball—pelota—is slightly
smaller than a baseball and is propelled by a woven
basket—a cesta—worn on the players’ hands. The
Guinness Book of World Records recognizes jai alai as
the fastest moving ball sport, clocking the record speed
of a pelota at 188 mph.
Jai alai is an exciting spectator sport ready-made for
bettors. Much like horseracing, it uses a pool-based,
pari-mutuel system where bets are placed on who will
finish in the first three spots. The game was popular on
the East Coast but untested in Nevada, where it would
compete with legal casino gaming.
In Las Vegas, MGM owner Kirk Kerkorian saw
an opportunity to corner the market and built a
2,000-seat fronton in 1974 to be a centerpiece Josu Aldecoaotalora
for his new gaming venture. Thus, at the MGM player photo from 1976
Grand Casino’s invitation, the early 1970s saw
MGM jai alai season.
a small wave of Basque athletes moving to Las
Vegas from Spain and other diaspora strongholds.
When Josu Aldecoaotalora and his wife Pilar
stepped off the plane, they were overwhelmed
by blinking lights and ringing bells.
Aldecoaotalora, a native of the
Spanish Basque Country, had been
living abroad for years playing
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

jai alai in Indonesia and the

Philippines. Now the couple was
arriving after midnight in their
new hometown of Las Vegas.
“All of the slot machines
in the airport,” says Pilar,
describing her first few
moments in America. “That
was the first shocker.”

50 Photos courtesy of the

Aldecoaotalora family
“Many players envisioned their sons—coming up “They all went in to go play and all the doors were
as the first-generation Americans—would take over locked,” remembers Echenique, whose father was
the sport they started for us,” says Echenique. He devastated by the closure.
remembers his father trying to teach him how to
Out of a job before their contracts expired, 29 of
scale the wall and other game techniques. The senior
the players sued MGM for insurance and back pay,
Echenique planned on playing in Las Vegas for 10-15
which ultimately reached a settlement. The former
years, saving his earnings, and then returning to his
players now faced a difficult decision: find casino
ancestral home in the town of Zugarramurdi (located
or construction jobs in Las Vegas or head east
near the French border).
where frontons still operated from Connecticut to
Jai alai caught on in Las Vegas for a while, and though Miami. If they didn’t find work, they faced expired
the casual fans didn’t understand the nuances of the visas and deportation.
sport, the arena was a place to be seen. Pilar remembers
seeing Sylvester Stallone and his then-girlfriend
Susan Anton in the crowd one night, and her husband
CREATING A COMMUNITY
remembers the impressive scale of the fronton. Near the end of jai alai’s tenure in Las Vegas, a pool
contractor named Jose Mari Beristain helped found
“Everything was big,” he says. “American big.”
the Lagun Onak Las Vegas Basque Club. Beristain
And then, after a 10-year run, Las Vegas jai alai shut emigrated from the Basque Country to Idaho in 1958
down overnight. However, the sport’s end did not come with his mother, brother, and sister. They came to join
as a surprise. Attendance had been declining for years, his father, who had been a sheepherder in the U.S. for
and the arena’s space became more valuable for Las the past decade. As an adult, Beristain found his way to
Vegas’ burgeoning convention business. In 1983, the Las Vegas, where he befriended many jai alai players
fronton was permanently converted into a meeting who hailed from his home country.
space, leaving the players without a sport.
The Aldecoaotaloras became members of the club,
Aldecoaotalora remembers the day of the last games as did Echenique’s father. Sister Sue Laxalt (sibling
when players were told jai alai would close that night. of former Nevada governor and U.S. Senator Paul
He went to the showers, and by the time he emerged in Laxalt and Nevada literary lion Robert Laxalt—all
his street clothes, the net that separated the court from first-generation Basque Americans) was an early
the spectators was being torn down. Professional jai alai club supporter.
would never again be played in Las Vegas.

SUMMER 2024

51
 Features fast friends

AOTALORA
PILAR AND JOSU ALDECO

When jai alai shut down, players like Echenique Sr. After serving as president of the club for almost
felt alone in an unfamiliar country. Young men who 40 years, Jose Beristain died in 2021. His daughter
had arrived without family had focused their time Amaya has since taken over as president. It is
on playing jai alai. With the sport gone, they found challenging to sustain and grow membership.
kinship in Lagun Onak.
“Kids grew up and moved on,” says Amaya
“He felt very abandoned and alone,” says Echenique. Beristain. There was a revival for a short time,
“I’m not too sure how well he would have done however, as she says, Las Vegas has too many
without that community in arm’s reach.” distractions for a younger generation.

For years, Echenique has campaigned for a “Unfortunately, my generation is getting older,” says
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

gathering place for the Las Vegas Basques. He Echenique, noting that his son proudly displays a
wants to buy a building and open a restaurant and Basque flag in his bedroom. “We drifted. We’re all
bar, following the lead of the city’s Italian American trying to come back.”
Club. He hopes to pool resources with former
This summer, he and his son will travel to the
teammates.
Basque Country to visit his father, who now splits
To this day, the club has no official place for his time between Spain and Las Vegas. Echenique’s
gatherings. They often meet in parks and other son will meet his great-grandmother, and for the
outdoor spaces, though they avoid the searing first time, four generations of the Echenique family
months of Las Vegas summers. will gather in the Basque Country.

Mark Maynard (photos of the Aldecoaotaloras), UNLV Special Collections (MGM Grand postcard)

52
 DID YOU KNOW? Jai alai was also played
at the MGM in Reno from 1978-1980.

Echenique hopes that

his father’s dreams of
a place for Basques to
gather in Las Vegas
comes true. Perhaps
southern Nevada can
build upon the Basque
camaraderie found in
the northern part of the
state. Maybe, someday,
the sound of pelotas
will again echo in the
frontons, and a new
generation of jai alai
athletes will entertain
diehard fans—maybe
some of whom have a
few good bets placed.

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 Will Work for
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

Pictured above: BY MEGG MUELLER

club sandwich and tasteful
salad, Courtyard Café in Fallon; We’re not trying to brag, but as a
Asian chicken tacos, Sassafras group, the staff of Travel Nevada really
Eclectic Food Joint in Carson City; gets around the Silver State. We log
Pancho Villa burger, The DIllinger in countless miles each year traversing the
Boulder City; strawberry custard
state in search of all the best Nevada
creme, The Bagel Café
in Las Vegas has to offer so we can share it with you.

54
 Features CRAVINGS

Delicious Food
Travel Nevada shares some of its favorite meals from around the state.

During our travels, we’ve had our fair comprehensive list of Nevada’s great
share of meals and decided to spill the dining options. Without further ado,
tea on some of our favorite places. we present the places Travel Nevada
SUMMER 2024

What follows is by no means all and Nevada Magazine & Visitor Guide
our favorites or meant to be a staff love to eat!

55
Nancy Munoz (strawberry custard creme)
 Features CRAVINGS

BEATTY

Marketing Manager Keelie Cox chose
Smokin J’s BBQ. “They have tasty
food and a great drink selection to refuel
after a long day of exploring Death Valley
National Park. Creative Director Susan
Mowers seconded that motion. “Who knew
such a beautiful little restaurant existed in
Beatty? The food was delicious, but more
than that, I loved sitting out on the front
porch on a perfect Nevada blue-skies day to
watch the city mosey on by.”

BOULDER CITY
  The Dillinger topped Chief Marketing Officer
Caroline Sexton’s list. “This is a new favorite!
Located in the historic Bank of Nevada building, the
shotgun door handles and ammo-filled tabletops
are so fun and the perfect nod to the restaurant’s
namesake, John Dillinger. It’s American-style dining
with super creative menu items. My go-to is the sticky
fingers burger and the gangster fries.”
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

56
 CALIENTE

Side Track Café was a favorite of many voters.
Here’s Destination Development Manager
Cortney Bloomer’s take: “This place stands out in rural
Nevada for its delicious and generously sized dinner
salads. While they also offer tasty pizzas, burgers, and
pasta, the salads are what keeps me coming back. My
favorite is the summer salad with chicken, but whatever
salad you pick, get it with the blood orange vinaigrette.”


CARSON CITY
Content Development Director Megg Mueller
called out Sassafras Eclectic Food Joint. “This place
never disappoints. The menu is full of fresh, homemade
items that have a distinct twist you won’t find anywhere
else. Eclectic is the perfect descriptor. I almost always
come back to the Asian chicken tacos with the heavenly
sticky coconut rice, but I’ve never had a bad meal there.”

“My go-to lunch spot is the Pink Elephant Kitchen,”

Fulfillment & Customer Service Specialist Carrie Roussel
notes. “From pad thai to curry dishes, and spring rolls,
mango sticky rice, and soups, their homemade offerings
blend techniques from Thailand and Japan to create
organic, super fresh, and delicious choices.”
SUMMER 2024

57
 Features CRAVINGS

 ELKO
McAdoo’s
hits the
spot for Chief
Communications
Officer Tracie
Barnthouse. “The
breakfast sandwich
on a croissant is
absolutely delicious.
I try to go every time
I’m in town.”

 FALLON
Another name that came up repeatedly
was the Courtyard Café and Bakery.
We’ll let Creative Manager Kippy
Spilker fill you in: “The food is
beautifully presented and, most
importantly, absolutely delicious.
Try the turkey & apple sandwich
or club sandwich with house
salad for lunch, or the California
omelet with homemade toast for
breakfast. If you can make it past
the freshly baked goodies lining
the counters on your way out,
you’re stronger than I am!”
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

McAdoo's (breakfast sandwich)

58
 
HIGHWAY 50
Associate Editor Cory Munson picked the famous
roadside diner found halfway between Fallon and
Austin. “For being in the middle of nowhere, something
is always happening at Middlegate Station. It’s like an
airport terminal, except the food is a lot cheaper. On my
last visit, I met Swedes, Chileans, and a Japanese couple
who were all chowing down on some good old greasy
spoon fare. But the reason I’m picking Middlegate is
because that’s where I experienced the proudest moment
of my life when I completed their 4-pound monster burger
food challenge and won a T-shirt.”


GARDNERVILLE
Deputy Director Mary Ellen Kawchack’s pick was
easy. “I love the J.T. Basque Bar & Dining Room.
Going there is also a holiday tradition; the lights and
comfort food feel like Christmas to me.”

SUMMER 2024

59
 
HAWTHORNE
“My favorite has to be Pepper’s Place,”
Digital Content Specialist Ali Anderson says.
“The burgers and fries are just *chef’s kiss.*

I also love that you can sit outside and take in the
mountains. The owner is so sweet and provides great
conversation! So, in total: great food, great scenery,
great conversation—a win all around.”

Another spot on Ali’s list: The

Bighorn Crossing in Walker Lake.
“The experience begins in the
parking lot where you are greeted by
incredible outdoor art sculptures. As
you walk in, you can’t miss the disco
balls hanging from the ceiling mixed
with the beautiful modern décor. I
must recommend ordering one of
their Italian sodas and a burger. The
cherry on top? Plopping down at a
table by the window and taking in the
million-dollar views of Walker Lake.”
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

60 Pepper's Place (top burger)

 LAS VEGAS Features CRAVINGS
 Content Development Manager Rachel
Wright quickly called out The Bagel Café.
“The menu is classic deli favorites and a true
testament that simple doesn’t mean flavorless. My
go-to is the turkey sandwich with extra pickles. I
don’t know how Bagel Café makes their pickles,

but I love them! The matzoh ball

soup tastes like it has legit healing
powers, the potato knish is packed
with flavor, and you won’t be able to
leave without grabbing goodies from
the overloaded bakery case.”

MESQUITE

Los Lupes Mexican Restaurant had a
special place in Caroline’s heart. “This is an
old classic for me. Growing up in Mesquite, it was a
staple for birthdays or when anyone came into town
for a visit. I especially love the fried ice cream.”

Nevada pairs well with everything! Visit

travelnevada.com to discover more great places
to eat and drink in the Silver State!

 RENO
"I love Royce Burger Bar!” proclaims Francine
Burge, Public Relations Manager for the Department
SUMMER 2024

of Tourism & Cultural Affairs. “I can see them from my office

window. When I see the steam is coming from the chimney,
I know they could be making one for me.”

Nancy Munoz (Bagel Café) , Los Lupes Mexican Restaurant (middle photo),
Asa Gilmore (Royce Burger Bar)
 The Disaster
at Mazuma
A cloudburst wipes a Nevada
community off the map.
BY CORY MUNSON
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

MAZUMA

62
 Features HISTORY

JULY 18, 1912 THE CLOUDBURST

At around 5 p.m., storm Then, as if the range was inhaling the
clouds formed over the surrounding summer evening, a humid
Seven Troughs Range, wind blasted up from the valley toward
the mountain peaks. The storm clouds
30 miles northwest of
shot skyward, elongating until they
Lovelock. Light rain resembled a black column. Within
sprinkled over the moments, the ugly thing hit critical
foothills as a confused mass, and stormwater poured out as if
from a spilt bucket.
breeze whipped up dust
eddies. In the little mining The deluge fell all at once, washing
down Burnt Canyon and taking the
towns spread along the
life of Julia Foncannon as she sat at
range—Seven Troughs, home. Downslope, the flood emptied
Vernon, and Mazuma— into Seven Troughs Canyon where the
people headed home for bustling, young town of the same name
dinner, thankful for a braced for impact. Fortunately, Seven
Troughs sat where the canyon was
respite from the July heat. widest, and the floodwater lowered to
ankle height. It passed through town
and uprooted a few buildings but caused
no significant damage or loss of life.
Ed Kalenbauch watched the flood from
his second-story office. He rushed to the
SUMMER 2024

phone, knowing the canyon narrowed

dramatically further down. At the other
end of that chute would be Mazuma.
As soon as Kalenbauch picked up the
phone, lightning killed the line.
Nevada Historical Society

63
 MAZUMA DESTROYED
Sybil Huntington was halfway to the bakery on
Mazuma’s main street when the breeze began
kicking up dust. Remembering that she’d left her
windows open, she returned to her hillside home.
Just before reaching the gate, she heard a roar from
the canyon and turned to watch a 20-foot-tall wave
crash over Mazuma. Years later, she remembered
that it was like the town was made of cardboard.
When the flood hit Mazuma, Percy Gillespie, the
superintendent’s son, was playing with George and
Jimmy Kehoe. Nearby, Mrs. Reese was chatting
with Mrs. Kehoe, who held her 19-month-old son
Ronnie. The water instantly swept them all away.
Downstream, Mike Whalen stepped out of his
cabin just in time to see Ronnie pass by. He dove in
to rescue the toddler, but neither resurfaced.
The raging river hit the post office, where Maud
Ruddel—the Canadian-born postmistress—was
assisting Mrs. McLean. Ruddel was later found 2
miles downstream, nails and wreckage tangled
MAZUMA 1908 in her hair. Nearby, Mr. and Mrs. Trenchard were
swept away and wouldn’t be discovered until the
next day. Mr. Trenchard later succumbed to his
injuries, but his wife survived.
Nearly every structure was carried away, some
debris going as far as a mile down the valley. The
dance hall managed to turn around 180 degrees
before crumbling. The Coalition Mining Plant—a
cyanide factory—tore off its concrete base, and its
vault containing $20,000 broke open.
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

64
 Features HISTORY

AFTER THE STORM

Word of the damage soon reached nearby
Lovelock. Within the hour, a caravan of
early automobiles raced north carrying
doctors, nurses, aid workers, supplies,
and provisions. Three undertakers were
dispatched out of Reno.
The road to Mazuma had turned into a
sticky, muddy soup, and vehicles had to
make a wide detour. By the time help
arrived, it was well after sunset. Rescuers
searched for survivors by lantern light.
In total, at least 11 people died—one-tenth
of the town’s population. All that remained
was the two-story hotel, the general store,
and a handful of cabins. The “Tonopah
Daily Bonanza” called it the worst disaster
Nevada had faced in many years.
The “White Pine News” said that, in
retrospect, disaster was inevitable, “…
encompassed as [Mazuma] was by high
mountain walls, resulted in its annihilation
… when the confided waters rushed down
the canyon.”

SUMMER 2024

MAZUMA 1912
Library of Congress (newspaper clipping)
Nevada Historical Society
65
 Later that week, Nevada Governor Tasker Despite the goodwill, Mazuma would never
Oddie issued a statement: “The catastrophe recover. On August 2, less than a month
is so great and the needs of relief so urgent after the storm, another cloudburst appeared
that, as president of the Red Cross of Nevada, over the range. A 5-foot wave flew down
I urge upon the people of the state the duty the canyon, inundating Seven Troughs and
of generous and immediate action.” washed out over what remained of Mazuma.
Donations poured in from across the The survivors had seen enough. They
country, and Nevada towns competed to see collected their remaining possessions and
who could contribute the most to aid the left the town forever.
displaced residents.

SEVEN TROUGHS 1908

NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

TODAY
In 1955, the “Nevada State Journal” reported
nothing was left of the town except for
rubble: Mazuma had returned to the desert.
There was only a trio of hardly legible stones
in the cemetery etched with the names
George, Jimmy, and Ronnie Kehoe.

Univesity of Nevada, Reno Special Collections (Seven Troughs)

MAZUMA TOWNSITE

66
 Features HISTORY

Over the years, the town of

Seven Troughs also disappeared.
However, ghost towners still have
a good reason to visit the area.
In the late 1920s, a company
in Seven Troughs constructed
a camp about a mile south of
Mazuma as a base of operation
for drilling a drainage tunnel
through the mountain. After
boring a little more than 2
miles, wet ground caused
drilling costs to soar. All
work ceased in 1934.
Several impressive
structures still stand at the
site—helpfully called Tunnel
Camp, or Tunnel—including
a large red brick building, a
stamp mill, wooden cabins,
SEVEN TROUGHS
and mine tailings.
TUNNEL CAMP
 Silver state
artist support
thrives
The Nevada Arts Council’s Fellowship
Program advances state’s culture.
BY FRANCINE BURGE

The Las Vegas Strip has a Crawford is a second-generation bucket

drummer. He was raised amid the lights
rhythm—a vibe, if you will.
of Las Vegas and trained at art-focused
Between the lights, the middle and high schools. Those settings
people, and the sounds, it further ignited his passion to perform and
vibrates with upbeat energy. allowed him the time to devote to his craft.
This sensory experience “By the time I had graduated from high
is enhanced by the many school, I had already put in the work of
10,000 hours,” Crawford says.
sidewalk musicians and street
performers. Some lucky Busking became a way to connect with
fans, although it is not easy. On the street,
pedestrians may have heard
most people aren’t there to see him: They
the work of Jared Crawford, are on their way to dinner or a casino
aka RED (Rapper-Entertainer- show. Still, it’s worth the effort.
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

Drummer), performing with “It is gratifying to connect with someone

buckets, drumsticks, and a and bring them out of their shell with my
microphone. Unbeknownst music,” he explains.
to the crowd, they were Crawford’s band, The Noir Movement, has
getting a free show from performed nationally and internationally,
one of Nevada’s acclaimed but Las Vegas is still home.
performing artists and a 2024 “Events like First Fridays and Soul
Nevada Arts Council (NAC) Sessions have allowed for a dope curated
arts scene. We’re just waiting for the world
Fellowship recipient.
to catch on to it.”

68
 FEATURES ARTS & CULTURE

TRAVEL
NEVADA
PRO TIP
Discover independent art
in Las Vegas by visiting
these sites.

Nevada Arts Council

nvartscouncil.org/events

The List Vegas

thelist.vegas

Double Scoop
doublescoop.art

Nothing to Do Las Vegas

ntdlv.com

Eat More Art

eatmoreartvegas.com

SUMMER 2024

JARED CRAWFORD
Nevada Historical Society

69
 KEEPING THE ARTS ALIVE
Since 1989, the Nevada Arts Council has
recognized 220 Nevada-based artists in
the visual, performative, and literary fields
with Fellowship Awards. The Arts Council
nurtures exceptional artists by offering
financial support. The artists, in turn, play
a crucial role in enhancing the economic,
civic, cultural, and educational aspects of
Nevada's arts industry.

“Crawford is a shining example of the

Fellowship program,” Tony Manfredi,
executive director of the Nevada Arts
Council, says. “He is the best in his field,
and we’re proud to support him so that he
can continue to contribute to the Nevada
arts community.”
“This fellowship is a recognition of my
work and talent,” Crawford says. “I hope
that people can come to Las Vegas and
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

experience the diverse music and arts

scene here.”

FIRST FRIDAYS
The Las Vegas First Friday Foundation hosts
local artists, musicians, and makers of all kinds
in downtown Las Vegas. Held the first Friday of
each month from 5 p.m.-11 p.m., the free event
is one of the area’s most popular local draws.

70
 FEATURES ARTS & CULTURE

MORE FINE FELLOWS

The rest of the 2024 Nevada Arts
Council Performing Art Fellowship
recipients include:

Carol Scott,
Children's Theater Director
Wild Horse Productions
Carson City
Carol has founded three
youth theater companies in
the U.S. and Canada.
“I believe youth theater is
not merely a platform for
entertainment but a dynamic
vehicle for personal and
artistic growth.”

Yunior Lopez Fernandez,

Musician/Conductor/
Entrepreneur
Las Vegas
At the age of 20, Fernandez
was appointed Conductor
of the Phil & Eli Taylor
Academy Orchestra at
The Royal Conservatory in
Toronto, Canada.
“The support from the
grant has been a catalyst
for growth, enabling me to
SUMMER 2024

take significant strides in my

musical journey.”

71
 Troy Heard, Theater Director
Las Vegas
Heard’s one-of-a-kind purview set the
George Orwell classic "Animal Farm" in an
Appalachian mud pit accompanied by an
original folk-Americana score.
“The NAC Fellowship is validation. To have
the acknowledgement of our peers gives us
the encouragement to continue our work
and to work better.”

Cari Cunningham,
Choreographer/Educator
University of Nevada, Reno
Cunningham’s choreography has been
performed in New York City, Oregon,
Colorado, California, Massachusetts,
and Mexico.
“Nevada really offers a unique blend of
trailblazing, tradition, and spectacle,
and this is evidenced in the variety of
the art scene here.”
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

E
ARTS & CULTUR

72
 FEATURES ARTS & CULTURE

Jennifer Bellor, Composer/Musician

Henderson
Her debut album “Stay”—a melting pot
of different music styles largely based on
poetry—was featured on “NewMusicBox”
magazine’s 2016 Staff Picks.
“This grant has made it possible to move
forward with my new recording project:
an experimental art song concept album
to be released summer 2024.”

Discover something new in Eureka.

Upcoming Eureka Events Perdiz
May 4 | Spring Fling
Eureka Opera House May 18 | Perdiz Fun Shoot
May 10 | Doug Figgs May 25-27 | Nevada Bowhunters Jamboree
May 17-18 | Fiddler’s Contest June 8 | FFA Spring Shoot
May 25 | Toiyabe Chamber Music Society June 15 | Perdiz Father’s Day Shoot
May 27 | VFW Ceremony July 31- Aug 4 | Nevada State Shoot
June 14 | Matt Farris
Main Street Eureka
June 22 | Missoula Children’s Theater
June 22 | Car Show
presents “Peter and Wendy”
4th of July Parade & Festivities

Eureka Sentinel Museum Eureka Opera House

10 N Monroe Street 31 S Main Street

EUREKA OPERA HOUSE

P.O. BOX 284, Eureka, NV 89316
(775) 237-6006 | opera@eurekacountynv.gov
 Comstock legend unloads
a ton of historical fun.
BY MEGG MUELLER

While Las Vegas and Reno offer white-

glove hospitality and world-class
entertainment, it’s our rural destinations
that give visitors a glimpse into the heart
and soul of our state. Each issue, you’ll
find one of our smaller-but-no-less-
incredible towns highlighted.

Silver, saloons, mining lore, the Comstock, and Mark

Twain: It's likely some or all of these words come
to mind at the mention of Virginia City. The history
of this northern Nevada gem is as wild, deep, and
important as they come, and it also makes for a
seriously fun destination.
Virginia City was established in 1859 at the base of
Mount Davidson, about 25 miles southeast of Reno.
At the height of the Comstock Lode bonanza in
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

1874, the town boasted a population of about 25,000

people. As miners in search of gold and silver poured
into the area—including nearby Gold Hill, Silver City,
and Dayton—so did the shopkeepers, saloon owners,
railroad workers, and more. Bursting at the seams,
the town attracted the attention of many who would
stake their claim to fame in Nevada, including Mark
Twain, John Mackay, and George Hearst.

74
Jamie Kingham
Features Rural Wranglers

SUMMER 2024

75
 Features Rural Wranglers

VIRGINIA CITY 1886

While the heyday of Virginia City was about

over by 1880, it's estimated that more than
$10 billion (in today's value) was pulled from
the surrounding hills in those two booming
decades.
The fortunes made by Mackay and Hearst—
among others—not only developed northern
Nevada, but were also responsible for
development in San Francisco, and even aided
in funding the New York City subway system.
For that reason, the town’s 13 museums are not
just about Virginia City or Nevada history, but
also U.S. history.
Those museums include:
•M
 ackay Mansion: an Italianate-style mansion
built in 1860 once owned by both Hearst and
Mackay that has been immaculately restored,
with tours that divulge the history of this
millionaire mansion.
•H
 istoric Fourth Ward School & Museum:
an 1876 Victorian school with 16 classrooms.
It's the only Second–Empire-style, four-
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

storied, wooden school building still standing

in the U.S.
•P
 iper's Opera House: built in the 1880s, this
building once featured the likes of President
Grant, Buffalo Bill, Al Jolson, and Mark
Twain. The restored theater today hosts many
performances and special events.

PIPER'S OPERA HOUSE

University of Nevada, Reno Special Collections (historic photo)

76 @itsloganmarie (railroad), @prettyfnspooky (Silver Queen)

 Features Rural Wranglers

PACK A BAG
The roads leading to the historic
mining town from Reno or Dayton are
a favorite of motorcyclists; the hairpin
twists and turns and panoramic views
take on even greater excitement when
Not all museums are in a building, the sun is on your face.
however. The Virginia & Truckee
The drive from Reno climbs almost
Railroad offers rides on steam and diesel
2,000 curvaceous feet in elevation, so
trains along much of the same route as
for any who want to imbibe and take
the trains that ran ore in 1870. Themed
in the charm of the city's saloons, the
rides happen throughout the summer,
drive back down is out of the question.
fall, and winter seasons. If authentic is
The perfect solution exists, however:
what you're looking for, consider the
stay the night.
Comstock Gold Mill, where you can
witness a working stamp mill in action There are about 227 rooms, somewhat
and see how gold was processed. surprising for a town with a year-round
population of 1,200. From incredibly
VIRGINIA & TRUCKEE RAILROAD
restored B&Bs like the B Street House
Inn to rustic and potentially haunted
rooms (Silver Queen Hotel, we’re
looking at you) above the town's main
street—plus an RV park and modern
hotels—there’s no reason to hurry
through your visit.

SUMMER 2024

SILVER QUEEN HOTEL

COMSTOCK GOLD MILL
77
 The dining options are also surprising,
owing to the size of the town.
On the main street boardwalk,
you'll find no shortage of tasty
burgers, corn dogs, and the
like, but delve a little deeper
and you'll find some incredible
cuisine. For 10 years, Café
Del Rio has served its "Out At its peak, the town is rumored to
West Cuisine" to great reviews, have had more than 100 saloons.
and The Canvas Café serves While today’s number is quite lower,
elegant breakfast and lunch fare. there are still ample places to sidle up
A stop at Grandma’s Fudge to a historic bar. Virginia City distills
Factory for a sweet treat is its own brand of gin—Cemetery Gin,
highly recommended. to be exact—and local saloons serve
craft beers and cocktails along with
For fans of ride share options, note that while it’s traditional shots of whiskey. The Gold
TRAVEL not too hard to get a ride to Virginia City from Hill Saloon is located in the oldest
NEVADA Reno, it can be tough to get one back to Reno.
PRO TIP hotel in Nevada (built
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

Check before counting on that as your ride home. in 1859). It serves a

history lesson along
with its drinks, while
the Bucket of Blood
has been operating
since (only) 1876,
remaining popular
and offering live
music most weekends.

@daughtersoftheroad (Bucket of Blood Saloon)

78 Jamie Kingham (child with ice cream)

 Features Rural Wranglers

Listed on the National Register of Historic

Places, Virginia City delivers an immense
blend of history, fun, and adventure. Annual
events such as the International Camel
and Ostrich Races, World Championship
Outhouse Races, and the Rocky Mountain
Oyster Fry, plus eight annual parades
and numerous saloon crawls all speak
to how seriously Virginia City takes its
celebrations. While a number of attractions
are seasonal, the town's appeal and charm
can be felt 365 days a year.

TRAVEL
NEVADA
PRO TIP
Make sure to walk the Silver
Terrace Cemetery. Gorgeously
situated, this final resting place
is full of elaborate headstones,
statues, and intriguing epitaphs.

You'll huff and you'll puff and

you'll find yourself blown away.
Shall we saddle up?

Job’s Peak is the first crown to catch the sun every day. It’s also the one that’s
captured Kate’s heart since childhood, the mountain she shares with adrenaline
junkies in search of a healthy serving of jaw-dropping views and means
for justifying the inevitable Basque meal at the end of the day. Raw, real and
unprocessed. That’s how life rolls in Carson Valley. visitcarsonvalley.org
 READY

RIDE?
TO

New tour reveals hidden mountain bike gems.

BY MEGG MUELLER

Nevada is home to more than 300 named mountain ranges,

more than any of the other contiguous U.S. states. It stands
to reason that mountain biking is a hugely popular sport
in the Silver State. While the trails around Lake Tahoe are
well-known in the two-wheel community, the last decade
has seen an explosion of trails in less-obvious parts of
the state. Exploring new trails can be both exciting and
daunting but have no fear: Bindlestiff Tours is here.

Bindlestiff has been leading adventure tours out of Las

Vegas since 2010. Its latest offering—Nevada Trails to
Rails—highlights some of the incredible riding available in
and between Caliente and Ely. When the opportunity came
to be part of the guided tour, I eagerly accepted—with
perhaps just a touch of trepidation about my skills.

I learned to mountain bike when I was 40. I’d been a road

NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

cyclist but picked up the fat-tire addiction after deciding

rocks were way more forgiving than automobiles. A bit
of a late bloomer to the sport, I jumped in with both feet,
crashing and burning enough to make my mother “forbid”
me from riding any longer. Almost two decades later, I still
ride, if not as aggressively. The chance to discover new-
to-me trails with an expert guide and full support was too
good to pass up. CATHEDRAL GORGE STATE PARK

80
Features outdoor recreation

SUMMER 2024

81
 THE SETUP complete with organic greens, delicious
cheeses, and fresh cold cuts. He even
Nevada Trails to Rails is a seven-day, intermediate- whipped up a gluten-free version for those
level biking trip that traverses the state from Lincoln with dietary restrictions. All kinds of side dishes
County to White Pine County. Don’t freak out: You appear, along with drinks and salty snacks. It’s a picnic
don’t ride the entire way. The tour begins in Las Vegas, that will be repeated throughout the week, each one
where you meet your guide and fellow riders before more delicious than the last.
heading to a bike shop to get outfitted with your steel
steed for the week. After that, it’s on the road for the Fully sated, it was time to hit the trail. We chose to
almost two-hour drive to Kershaw-Ryan State Park drive to the Kershaw Redemption trailhead rather
near Caliente. than ride up from the canyon. The trail is a 7-mile
loop across super flowy singletrack that delivers the
first of many breathtaking views we’ll have on the trip.
READY TO ROLL This is definitely the warmup ride for the tour with no
Kershaw-Ryan is one of my favorite parks, truly a major climbing, and yet, it whipped my butt. I blame
tucked-away gem. It’s a beautiful little oasis in the performance anxiety and an overactive adrenaline
middle of the southern Nevada landscape, and the only system. Regardless, the trail’s allure is undeniable and
thing that can make it better is the lunch spread put the perfect start to the trip. Riding back into town
on by our guide, Bradley Mahnke. From a couple of made me feel better about my lackluster performance
unassuming coolers in the back of the van, he pulls out as we bombed down the road into Caliente and our
the ingredients for an incredibly upscale sub sandwich rooms at the Shady Motel.
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

Bradley Mahnke (biking on rock, opposite page)

82 ELLA MOUNTAIN
 Features outdoor recreation

ELLA MOUNTAIN

Determined to keep up the rest of the trip, I greeted day two

with new resolve. During our breakfast, Bradley and Melissa
Chiella—another guide, who also happens to be Bindlestiff’s
director of operations—laid out our options for the day’s ride
through the irresistibly beautiful Barnes Canyon. We decided
to tackle the Ella Mountain trail system with a shuttle ride to
the top and then descend in three sections with a stop after
each. Barnes Canyon has it all: flowy descents, super technical
downhills, and some wicked good climbs. The group is eager to
do the three chosen legs; I decide to tackle just one of the legs.
Meeting up with the group at the first stop, all I see are elated
faces. This leg challenged each of them in the best way
possible, I’m told. A quick snack break and a few stories later,
it’s back on the bike, this time with me in tow. Melissa assures
me I’ll love this leg, and I do. We ride through ponderosa
pines with so many turns I lose my bearings (but never the
well-marked trail). It’s a ride that begs for some speed and a
lot of flow. At the end, I’m spent and apologize for
keeping the group waiting, but Melissa quickly tells
me, “This is a judgment-
free zone. If you had fun,
that’s what it’s all about.”
I had fun but decide to Caliente Stops
skip the last section, and Caliente served as our
we reconvene in town at base of operations for
the hotel. The group is the first two days, and
tired (they logged more this quiet town played
than 25 miles) but thrilled host perfectly. Delicious
with the spectacular
food (great vegetarian
trails. No one in the
options, too) at the Side
SUMMER 2024

group has ridden Ella

Track Restaurant, clean
Mountain before, and to
say they are impressed and comfy rooms at the
with the trail network is Shady Motel, and plenty
an understatement. of stargazing at night
were all part of the tour.
83
 CATHEDRAL GORGE STATE PARK

ONWARD HO
We head up the eastern side of the state
toward Ely, our home for the next three
nights. Along the way, we learn fascinating
facts about Nevada from Bradley and
make a few stops for photo ops. Before
we hit town, we stop at Cathedral Gorge
State Park for some slot canyon exploration
and a chance to spin out a few flat miles
through the park.
Ward Charcoal Ovens State Park is also
on the agenda before we end our day.
The group opts for a hike through the
surrounding hills after learning a little about
the large, beehive-shaped ovens. Bradley
whips up another gourmet lunch for us, this
one with falafel and all the fixings. Food on
the trail has to be the greatest.

WARD CHARCOAL OVENS STATE PARK

NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

84
 Features outdoor recreation

The town of Ely has been positioning meal. Our evening plans are based
itself as an outdoor mecca in recent around the coming annular solar eclipse,
years, for good reason. Dozens of miles so after Mexican food and margaritas,
of trails lead to downtown, and short we take in a planetarium show and
WARD MOUNTAIN
drives reveal dozens more. You cannot attend the town’s celebratory bonfire
go wrong here if you love to ride; heck, before hitting the hay.
you can even shuttle on a steam train
then take a gravel ride back to town. Cave Lake State Park hosts our
final Ely-based ride, and it’s pretty
With so much to choose from, Bindlestiff
much utter perfection. Some of the
starts the adventure on Ward Mountain
group opt for some gravel riding to
and its more than 25 miles of trail. We
see the explosion of aspen colors in
ride through pinyon-juniper forests,
the area, but the star of the show is
down narrow rocky sections, and along
a climb up a crazy (but short) section
wide, groomed features. I’ve ridden
of trail that takes you from lake
here before, but each time I discover
level into a mahogany forest with
something new. My favorite thing about
limestone cliffs. The terrain changes
riding in Ely has to be the views: White
so quickly you’d think you were riding
Pine County’s topography is some of the
in three different ecosystems. It’s
most stunning in the state.
a gorgeous albeit challenging trail
The trail leads back to downtown Ely system with many options for
where the van awaits with another great creating your own adventure. SUMMER 2024

CAVE LAKE STATE PARK

Bradley Mahnke (Ward Mountain)
85
 Features outdoor recreation

Ely Stops
Ely’s Holiday Inn was our home for four nights
and it could not have been nicer. We ate at
many places, but standouts include Margarita’s
Mexican Restaurant, Racks Bar & Grill, and
Smash N Grab.
SACRAMENTO PASS

GOING DEEP
Our tour finishes up with less riding but no
less fun. After a detour to experience the
annular eclipse, we head to Great Basin
National Park for a tour of the exquisite
Lehman Caves. After wandering below the
surface, we swap our planned ride for a hike
on the Bristlecone-Alpine Lakes Trail. With
the elevation soaring above 10,000 feet, our
lungs still get a workout on the short hike.
The views of ancient bristlecone pines high
above the ground is not one I’ll ever forget.
The tour comes to an end the following
day, but not before a ride on the Nevada
Northern Railway’s steam train and lunch
in town. I say goodbye to my fellow
riders, people I didn’t know a week ago
but now can’t imagine this experience
without. The riding was definitely tough,
but the group made it so enjoyable, I wouldn’t hesitate to do it
again. The tour features amazing guides who were ready for any
situation, comfortable accommodations that fit our needs perfectly,
and delicious restaurant experiences. Bindlestiff exceeded my
expectations in every way on this mountain biking extravaganza, so
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

when the itch to ride something new hits, you know who to call.

TRAVEL Bindlestiff Tours can be

NEVADA booked online or by calling
PRO TIP
(800) 557-6989.

86
 Uncover
tales from
untamed trails
Following in her father’s
footsteps, Withanee
Andersen begins the
expedition of a lifetime
when she and her
comrades embark on a
trek from Mt. Whitney to
Death Valley, tracing the
rugged path her father,
Jim Andersen*, traversed
forty-three years earlier.

20% off with

Promo Code NVMAG20
from May-July

unpress.nevada.edu
*Jim Andersen (1944-2022) was a freelance writer
whose career began in 1980 with Nevada Magazine.
 Rainbow
Canyon
Take a scenic drive through Nevada's
most colorful corridor.
BY CORY MUNSON

As a 30-something-year Nevada
resident and a writer for Nevada
Magazine & Visitor Guide, I've
spent a lot of time on the road.
I can safely say I have been on
every major state route and
highway, not to mention countless
graded backroads and washed-out
two-tracks. Over the years, a few
routes have become favorites, and
I always look forward to taking
or recommending them. These
include State Route 722, between
Middlegate and Austin, and State
Route 486, which passes through
the Schell Creek Range behind
Ely and McGill. However, at the
top of my list is State Route 317,
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

the road that ribbons through

Rainbow Canyon.
The canyon—located a few minutes south
of Caliente—certainly earns its name. Its
towering rock walls display a blend of earth
tones offset by bands of rust-red rock. Green
junipers and white rabbitbrush run upslope
from the road with cottonwoods and
aspens—orange and yellow in the fall—lined
along the valley floor.

88
 Features Rainbow Canyon
RAILROADS AND FLOODS
The waterway that runs through (foreshadowing) was placed right
(and carved out) Rainbow Canyon on the canyon floor—the lowest
is the Meadow Valley Wash. This possible elevation—alongside the
temperamental stream begins 40 Meadow Valley Wash.
miles northeast of Caliente at Spring
In 1907, a massive flood wiped out
Valley State Park. After passing
23 miles of track and destroyed
through the canyon, it empties near
three bridges. Stakeholders
Moapa and—eventually—Lake Mead.
questioned whether it was worth
Meadow Valley Wash is prone to rebuilding—no doubt there would
seasonal flooding. Those who live near be more floods—and looked for
it must adapt to frequently submerged a way around the canyon. But
roads and the potential for destructive there were no other options: Any
flash floods. Unfortunately for early- detour would be cost-prohibitive
20th-century railroad developers, and add dozens of miles through
Rainbow Canyon was unavoidable barren desert without water, towns,
while constructing the Salt Lake City or preexisting roads. All they could
to Los Angeles line. do was build the line higher up the
canyon wall.
It took workers three years to
complete the canyon's 80 miles of rail
and 10 steel bridges. The first railroad

FLOOD DAMAGE IN 1910

SUMMER 2024

89
 On New Year's Eve 1909, another flood Today, the busy Salt Lake to Los Angeles line still runs
swept cars and tracks miles down the through Rainbow Canyon. Thanks to modern engineering,
canyon, destroying millions of dollars floods are nowhere near the danger they once posed.
in engines and supplies. The U.S. rail
Nowadays (unless a freight line is passing through) the canyon
network slowed to a crawl as westbound
is quiet and peaceful. During your drive, you’ll probably feel
cargo locked up in Salt Lake City in what
like you have the whole place to yourself: the water to one
papers called one of the greatest railroad
side, the rail to the other, and the winding road ahead. It’s
catastrophes in American history.
a wonderful experience, and while there’s no wrong way to
However, with few alternatives, the
do it, what follows are my suggestions for those looking to
railroad had no choice but to rebuild at an
experience Rainbow Canyon for the first time.
even higher elevation, adding 10 tunnels
and 13 new bridges.
THERE AND BACK AGAIN
Although a road passes through the entire canyon, visitors
should start in Caliente and then drive as far as Elgin before
turning around where the pavement ends. All told, it's about a
45-mile round trip.
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

90 Anthony Donofrio (people on bikes)

 Features Rainbow Canyon

As mentioned, floods and washed-out roads are

a reality in the canyon. The best time to visit is
during the driest part of summer. Check road
and weather conditions before making the trek:
You might come across a few feet of water on
the road that will force you to turn around.
That said, with its bridges, side canyons, ranch
houses, and multi-hued cliffsides, Rainbow
Canyon is about as picturesque as it gets in
Nevada. There are plenty of scenic pullovers
during the drive but be sure to visit the two sites
that bookend the trip.

Kershaw-Ryan State Park

Three miles south of Caliente, this state park marks the
northern edge of Rainbow Canyon. After a short drive,
you'll be in a 6-acre grove in near-perpetual shade—
partly from the cottonwood and elm trees, mainly from
the surrounding canyon walls. Stop here for a picnic or
to escape the summer heat: Temperatures are usually
around 10 degrees cooler here.
This lush glen used to be the Meadow Valley Wash
Ranch. The Kershaw family owned it and then sold to
a cattleman named James Ryan, who later donated it
to the state. In 1934, the Civilian Conservation Corps
(CCC) built picnic areas, trails, and other facilities. The
park opened a year later.
A 1984 flood wiped out most of the infrastructure,
SUMMER 2024

shuttering the park for 13 years. Kershaw-Ryan is fully

operational today, offering great camping areas and
trails that grant beautiful views of the canyon below
(see front cover of this issue).

91
 Features Rainbow Canyon

Elgin Schoolhouse
This quaint country schoolhouse sits at the
end of the 22-mile road.
Luxury Resort
By the early 1900s, Rainbow Canyon was a
30-mile string of homesteads with enough Around 1.5 miles south of
children to justify its own schoolhouse. Kershaw-Ryan, the canyon
The perfect place to build the school was widens into a meadowy bend
at centrally located Elgin, a train depot that was once the Conaway
with its own telegraph office. The county Ranch. The Conaways settled
built the single-room schoolhouse in 1922, there in the 1860s and built
which operated until 1967. In 2005, the state a multi-generational farming
acquired the property and dedicated it as the empire before selling their
Elgin Schoolhouse State Historic Park. land to Howard Hughes in
1970. After Hughes died
Today, visitors can enjoy lunch in the shade
in 1976, his estate sold the
and admire the old building. If you'd like
250-acre parcel to another developer planning
a tour of the inside, contact the rangers at
to build Lincoln County's hottest luxury
Kershaw-Ryan State Park.
destination: The Rainbow Canyon Ranch Resort.
When completed, the complex was to feature
GONE BUT NOT FORGOTTEN a condominium village, two luxury hotels, a
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

casino, and a 36-hole golf course. The master

Rainbow Canyon has several points of historic
plan even called for a movie theater, rodeo
note. Keep in mind that little remains of the
arena, horse track, cultural center, country club,
following, but hopefully these details add
and a shopping district.
some color to your journey.
None of that happened. Or, at least, most of it
didn't. In the early 1980s, the developer dug out
the resort's plumbing system and completed
nine of the 36 holes. Then, the 1984 flood wiped
out any hope for a resort, and the land returned
to nature.

92
ATTN:

PHOTOGRAPHERS
For all the early risers, and ‘unexpected surprise’-ers;
those with wind (maybe a little sand) in your hair and you don’t care;
for the late-night star chasers and road trip slow-pacers;
for anyone who knows just how amazing
Nevada is. Show us your photos!

2024 CONTEST BEGINS Wednesday, MAY 1

CONTEST ENDS Sunday, JUNE 30

1. Landscapes 4. Birds NEW

CATEGORIES
There can be people, animals, or Did you know FOR 2024
buildings in your landscapes, but that Nevada
the focus should primarily be on has nearly 500
Nevada’s wide open spaces. species of birds either living here or
migrating through regularly? That
being the case, we have separated
2. Waterscapes birds out from the Wildlife category
Rivers, lakes, ponds, streams, this year.
OUR SINCERE THANKS TO waterfalls–anywhere you find
water in Nevada, we want to
THESE GENEROUS SPONSORS:
see it. 5. Wildlife
The Silver State is teeming with
wildlife. Show us the wild-n-
3. People wonderful from your Nevada
Nevada is full of amazing characters. adventures. Emphasis on “wild”–
We’re not looking for professionally- no domestic animals like sheep,
GRAND PRIZE: lit and staged photos here (although cows, dogs, etc.
LODGING AND ENTRY
you’re welcome to submit those–
TO NNRY WINTER
maybe we’ll be surprised), we’re
STEAM SPECTACULAR
looking for photos of people who 6. Cities/Towns
Nevada Northern Railway & know Nevada’s awesome, and help Big, small, ghost–show us the cities
Ramada Copper Queen in Ely
nnry.com • wyndhamhotels.com
make it that way. or towns you love in Nevada.

Basic Rules
• Photos must have been taken in Nevada, • No watermarks (can affect judging)
in 2020 or later • Drone photos must have been taken while
CATEGORY WINNER PRIZES: • You can submit up to two photos per category observing all state and FAA rules/regulations
GIFT PACKAGE FROM • No fee to submit • Photographers retain all copyright to their images
HOME MEANS NEVADA
• Minimal digital photo
Home Means Nevada Co. manipulation/alteration allowed
(with stores in Reno & Henderson)
homemeansnevada.com
For complete rules/submission info: nevadamagazine.com/gnph
 Features Rainbow Canyon

Ancient Remains
Rainbow Canyon is home to various
pictograph (painted) and petroglyph
(carved) sites, including one
wall—located up a side canyon—
that features faded red-orange
pictographs. On the cliffside opposite
the pictographs is a small hollow
where, in the 1930s, archeologists—
with the help of CCC crews—
excavated artifacts dating back to
3000 B.C.
People have lived in Rainbow Canyon
for more than 10,000 years. Over
those millennia, innumerable cultures
used the area to hunt or shelter. Other
bands, like those belonging to the
Fremont and Southern Paiute, took
advantage of the floodplain to plant corn, Ghost Town Utilities
squash, beans, and sunflowers.
Around 8 miles south of Caliente, near
Nobody knows which specific people made the Mud Spring Canyon, is the site of a
pictographs, but they stand as a testament to powerplant and (a bit further down the
the eons-long use of this canyon. road) water pump that served Delamar.
This mining town, located just on
the other side of the mountain, grew
to around 3,000 people in 1897 and
thrived for a decade.
In its time, Delamar was infamous for
its high fatality rate due to silicosis,
which workers developed after
breathing in fine particulate—called
Delamar Dust—that came off the dry
stamp mills.
Today, the town is a bit difficult to
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

reach—OHV vehicles are highly

recommended. However, it's one of the
state's most expansive and impressive
ghost towns. Visitors will find countless
mine and mill ruins, hundreds of
foundations, and many structures only
missing a wall or two. There's even an
alleyway (how many ghost towns can
claim that?).

Donna Greenbaum (petroglyphs)

94
SECOND ANNUAL
TONOPAH NEVADA

rock &
bottle show
July 19 , 20 th th

& 21 2024
st

Vendors please contact Chrissy Pope,

Tourism & Events Coordinator Town of Tonopah
at 775-277-0804 or
email: chrissy.townoftonopah@gmail.com

To view a full list of vendors please visit

TONOPAHNEVADA.COM/TONOPAH-ROCK

this event is hosted by the town of tonopah

 SUMMER EVENTS
CALENDAR
FEARS, TEARS & BEERS MTN BIKE ENDURO RACE From cookoffs and cultural days to music festivals
and rodeos, summers in Nevada are positively
brimming with things to do. Calendar information is
always subject to change, so be sure to check online
before finalizing plans.

FEARS, TEARS & BEERS STEWART FATHER'S DAY

MOUNTAIN BIKE ENDURO POWWOW
RACE June 14-16
June 8 Carson City
Ely
Since 1990, the grounds of the
Ride up, over, around, and through historic Stewart Indian School
STEWART FATHER'S DAY POWWOW some of the highest-elevation have been home to an exciting,
mountain ranges in the Silver weekend-long celebration of
State. Attracting top names in American Indian culture. This
cycling and mountain biking from event features artisans, artists,
around the globe, this enduro race food and craft vendors, and
begins in downtown Ely where plenty of cultural activities
racers start their ride on a casino including 200 dancers.
floor before heading into the
surrounding rugged terrain.

NIGHT IN THE COUNTRY NATIONAL BASQUE

July 25-27 FESTIVAL
Yerington July 6-7
What began as a fundraiser for Elko
NIGHT IN THE COUNTRY
the local Boys & Girls Club has All are welcomed to the Elko
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUID E

evolved into one of the largest Basque Clubhouse for the

country music festivals in the kickoff of the West’s largest
nation. Join nearly 30,000 music celebration of Basque culture.
fans for an unforgettable weekend Throughout the weekend, enjoy
in the heart of Nevada's farm an array of dance performances,
country. Along with a packed traditional Basque music and
lineup featuring country's biggest cuisine, and events including a
stars, you can look forward to wood chopping competition and
rodeo events, themed campsites, breadmaking contest.
and wild costumes.

NATIONAL BASQUE FESTIVAL “Photo-John” Shafer (Ely bike), Sandi Whitteker (Stewart Powwow)

96 Shaun Astor (Night in the Country)

 PLANNING GUIDE EVENTS CALENDAR

CALENDAR
NEVADA EVENTS

RENO RODEO

MAY JUNE JULY

4-5 1-2 1-31
BOULDER CITY SPRING CALIFORNIA TRAIL DAYS ARTOWN
JAMBOREE Elko Reno
Boulder City
2 10-14
17–18 AMERICA’S MOST AMERICAN CENTURY
NEVADA STATE OLD-TIME BEAUTIFUL BIKE RIDE CELEBRITY GOLF
FIDDLERS’ CONTEST South Lake Tahoe CHAMPIONSHIP
Eureka South Lake Tahoe
7-9
17-19 WINNEMUCCA BASQUE 14
ELECTRIC DAISY FESTIVAL SIERRA NEVADA
CARNIVAL Winnemucca LAVENDER & HONEY
Las Vegas FESTIVAL
14-15 Reno
24-25 GREAT ELDORADO BBQ,
BEST DAM BARBECUE BREWS AND BLUES 19-21
CHALLENGE Reno TONOPAH ROCK &
Boulder City BOTTLE SHOW
20-29 Tonopah
24-26 RENO RODEO
RUN-A-MUCCA Reno 25-28
MOTORCYCLE RALLY & FASTEST GUN ALIVE
MUSIC FESTIVAL 22 WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP
Winnemucca RUBY ROUBAIX: GRAVEL Fallon
FONDO
30-June 1 Lamoille AUGUST
SCHELLRAISER MUSIC 3-4
FESTIVAL 28-Aug. 25 BRISTLECONE ARTS IN
Ely LAKE TAHOE THE PARK
SUMMER 2024

SHAKESPEARE FESTIVAL Ely

31-June 2 North Lake Tahoe
BACKCOUNTRY MUSIC
FESTIVAL
Carson Valley
97
 PLANNING GUIDE STATE MUSEUMS

NEVADA STATE
Hours and Admission Guide
MUSEUMS

NEVADA STATE RAILROAD MUSEUM NEVADA STATE RAILROAD MUSEUM EAST ELY RAILROAD
CARSON CITY BOULDER CITY DEPOT MUSEUM
Thursday-Monday Daily, 9 a.m. - 3:30 p.m. Monday-Saturday, 8 a.m. - 4:30 p.m.
9 a.m. - 4:30 p.m. Train Rides Saturday & Sunday Sunday, 8 a.m. - 4 p.m.
10 a.m. | 12 p.m. | 2 p.m.
Adults $8 General Admission FREE
Ages 17 and younger FREE General Admission FREE Tour Grounds $8
Train Rides
Adults $10
Ages 4-12 $5
Ages 3 and younger FREE

NEVADA STATE MUSEUM NEVADA STATE MUSEUM LOST CITY MUSEUM

CARSON CITY LAS VEGAS OVERTON
Tuesday-Sunday Thursday-Monday Wednesday-Sunday
8:30 a.m. - 4:30 p.m. 9 a.m. - 4 p.m. 8:30 a.m. - 4:30 p.m.

Adults $10 Adults $9.95 Adults $6

Ages 17 and younger FREE Ages 3-17 $4.95 Ages 17 and younger FREE
Ages 2 and younger FREE
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

Call before you go as hours,

admission rates, and openings
NEVADA HISTORICAL SOCIETY are subject to change. State
RENO and federal holidays may
Wednesday-Saturday impact availability.
10 a.m. - 4 p.m.
MUSEUMS
Adults $6
Ages 17 and younger FREE

98
 PLANNING GUIDE STATE PARKS

STATE
PARKS
Directory

RV Dump Station
Flush Restrooms
Group Camping

Maximum Size
Visitor Center
Boat Launch

RV Space
Camping

Showers

Fishing
Trails
1. Beaver Dam State Park • • • • 28'
2. Berlin-Ichthyosaur State Park • • • • • 25' Spring Mountain Ranch State Park
3. Big Bend of the Colorado State Recreation Area • • • • • 60'
4. Cathedral Gorge State Park • • • • • • • 40'
24
5. Cave Lake State Park • • • • • • • • 35'
6. Dayton State Park • • • • • 35'
7. Echo Canyon State Park • • • • • • • 35' 16 17

8. Elgin Schoolhouse State Historic Site • N/A

12
9. Fort Churchill State Historic Park • • • • • • 45' 23 6 9 5
13
10. Ice Age Fossils State Park • • • N/A 14 22
21
2
11. Kershaw-Ryan State Park • • • • 30' 19

12. Lahontan State Recreation Area • • • • • • • • 60' 4 7

13. Lake Tahoe Nevada State Park • • • • • • • N/A 11 1
8
14. Mormon Station State Historic Park • • N/A
15. Old Las Vegas Mormon Fort State Historic Park • • • N/A 20
10
18 15
16. Rye Patch State Recreation Area • • • • • • • • • 45'
17. South Fork State Recreation Area • • • • • • • • • 30'
3
18. Spring Mountain Ranch State Park • • • N/A
19. Spring Valley State Park • • • • • • • 35'
20. Valley of Fire State Park • • • • • • • 50' Know Before You Go:
SUMMER 2024

21. Walker River State Recreation Area • • • • • • • • 50' Park openings, hours, and
services are subject to
22. Ward Charcoal Ovens State Historic Park • • • • 30'
change. Before visiting,
23. Washoe Lake State Park • • • • • • • • 45' consult parks.nv.gov, or call
24. Wild Horse State Recreation Area • • • • • • • • 60' the park ranger.
@merrills.on.the.move
99
 Planning guide ROAD TRIPS

MAKE YOUR
NEXT TRIP A
ROAD
TRIP
Fancy yourself a foodie? A die-hard history buff?
A thrill-seeking adventure junkie? All of the above
and beyond? Perfect. With these road trip ideas—
whichever corner of the state you venture to—you’re
bound to uncover unexpected encounters, memorable
characters, and only-in-Nevada experiences.

BURNER BYWAY
110 to 250 miles | 2 to 4 days
IPS This trip starts in the Biggest Little City and
NEVADA ROAD TR follows the same route tens of thousands take each year to
the Black Rock Desert and Burning Man. With a night at
spellbinding Pyramid Lake and the chance to see some of
the Lower 48’s most remote sections, this road is all about
unscripted adventure.

COWBOY CORRIDOR
400 miles | 2 to 4 days
RUBIES ROUTE Nevada's Interstate 80 may be what some
30 to 375 miles | 2 to 5 days
motorists blast down on their way to somewhere else,
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

but that’s their loss! On this trip, you’ll discover lively

With Elko as your hub, get ready
communities with museums, art galleries, and cuisine
to explore a recreation-packed
highlighting the confluence of buckaroo, Basque, and
paradise in the state’s rugged
American Indian traditions.
northwest outback. You’ll hike
gorgeous Lamoille Canyon, dip
into pristine mountain lakes,
and wind through the wilds to DEATH VALLEY RALLY
Jarbidge, one of the West’s last Up to 370 miles | 3 to 4 days
true frontier towns. A land of extremes awaits just off The Strip.
While diving into the state’s southwest, you’ll enjoy below-
For a real gem of an sea-level adventure in Death Valley, stargaze at an alpine
resort, wander a ghost town, and enjoy winery tours in the
adventure, turn to pg. 36.
Mojave Desert.
100
 Planning guide ROAD TRIPS

ELY

FREE-RANGE ART HIGHWAY LONELIEST ROAD IN AMERICA

440 to 515 miles | 1 to 3 days 375 to 500 miles | 3 days
Psychedelic free-range art meets the American This famous road trip is your chance to explore
West on this 500-mile trek from Las Vegas to Reno. Along Nevada’s wild interior. In between tours of the state’s
the way, you’ll meet mural-draped downtowns, oddball most famous (and remote) towns, you’ll have unrivaled
open-air galleries, funky shops, and iconic overnighters. opportunities for hot springing, off-roading, wildlife
viewing, and Sagebrush Saloon hopping.
GREAT BASIN HIGHWAY
350 to 585 miles | 3 to 5 days
This trip begins with sandstone canyons and
NEON TO NATURE
60 to 210 miles | 1 to 3 days
ends at ancient bristlecone pines beneath some of the
Las Vegas is good at keeping people occupied,
nation’s darkest skies. Before reaching our state’s very
but just an hour beyond the glow are the world-famous
own national park, you’ll explore surreal landscapes
Hoover Dam and Colorado River, outdoor playgrounds
including Valley of Fire and Cathedral Gorge and visit
like Red Rock Canyon, and plenty of ghost towns, historic
charming communities and historic ghost towns.
mines, and archeological sites.
LAKE TAHOE LOOP
145 miles | 2 to 5 days EXTRATERRESTRIAL HIGHWAY
World-famous Lake Tahoe is a 100 to 470 miles | 2 days
year-round haven for resort-goers and outdoor Prepare to rocket off into one of Nevada’s most
SUMMER 2024

enthusiasts. But don’t miss the surrounding idyllic remote and mysterious corridors. Along the way, you’ll
countryside, which includes Reno’s artsy Midtown, see one of the deepest craters in the U.S., hunt for UFOs
charming Carson Valley, and the wildly Western just miles outside Area 51, stay in a clown-themed motel,
Virginia City. and score some alien swag.

@daughtersoftheroad + @ridetofood

101
 PLANNING GUIDE RECREATE RESPONSIBLY

Recreate
Responsibly
Nevada is a beautiful place, but one of its best qualities—and
the reason folks make repeat visits—is that most of it belongs
to everybody. More than 80 percent of Nevada is public, which
means our lakes, deserts, valleys, marshes, and mountains are
for everyone to enjoy. With that said, it’s up to you to protect the
land and keep Nevada pristine for the next generation.

WILDFIRE WATCHOUT
Battling natural wildfires is difficult enough, so let’s not add human-
caused ones to the mix. Preventable blazes are started by campfire
embers, vehicle undercarriages, hot bullet casings, and more. Practice
situational awareness and always be aware of local fire restrictions.

TRAVEL
NEVADA
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

PRO TIP
Don’t count on your cellphone to
bail you out of a jam! Nevada’s wild
places are some of the country’s
most remote, which means they’re
often out of cell service and far
from help. Be prepared, let people
know where you’re going, and
always have a plan B.

@gwynandami

102
WHERE YOU’RE GOING, safely, and responsibly. Brush up on and many visitors take to remote
THERE’S A ROAD designated OHV routes before you campgrounds for our unrivaled
No matter your destination, you’re head out into Nevada’s backcountry. galactic view. Be mindful of the
likely to find a two-tracks or trail light pollution you bring with you:
that’ll get you where you need to be. ANIMAL INSTINCT It doesn’t take much to blow out
Please don’t blaze your own: Desert Nevada’s wildlife ranges from another camper’s night vision.
fauna is slow to grow and takes rabbits to rattlesnakes, burros to
decades to recover from damage. bighorns, antelope to coyotes, DIRT ROAD CODE
and more wild horses than Study up on the Dirt Road Code if
HERE’S YOUR SIGN anywhere else. While exploring the you plan on venturing outside metro
While most land is public, some backcountry, be sure to drive at areas for an adventure. You’ll find
isn’t. If you see any No Trespassing safe speeds. You’ll be more likely packing tips, vehicle suggestions,
signs, please stay out. If you come to spot the fauna, and they’ll have and advice on how to safely
across a gate with no signage, it’s more time to get out of your way. navigate Nevada’s backroads.
there to keep cattle out. Pass on Also, feeding or handling wildlife
through but make sure to close the is against the law, and human
gate behind you. interaction won’t do them any
favors in the long run. Enjoy from a
TREAD LIGHTLY! distance.
Whether you’re off-roading,
hunting, target shooting, fishing, or STAR CAMPERS
simply exploring, make sure you’re Nevada’s night skies are some
operating motorized vehicles legally, of the darkest in the Lower 48,
E
DIRT ROAD COD

SUMMER 2024

103
The Final
THE FINAL WORD kutoven "ku" stevens

Kutoven
"Ku" Stevens

Word A conversation with

Kutoven “Ku” Stevens,
student athlete and host of the
50-mile Remembrance Run from
the Stewart Indian School Cultural
Center & Museum in Carson City to
the Yerington Paiute Reservation.

BY AMY VIGEN

NM&VG: Indigenous graves on the grounds NM&VG: What was the most
What was it of a former boarding school in difficult part of the run for you?
like growing Kamloops, Canada. When my KS: Obviously, it's not an easy
up in a small family heard about that, it hit close journey. It's 50 miles, so no matter
Nevada town to home. My great-grandfather had how good you are at running, it's a
like Yerington? gone to a boarding school, which he pretty tough thing to go through.
KS: I grew up in a ran away from three times at only 8 After the first run, I distinctly
colony around a lot years old. He made the 50-mile trip remember cresting over the
of Native Americans. through the desert from Stewart final ridge and seeing my valley,
My dad always took me Indian School back to the Yerington my hometown, and just being
to different ceremonies Paiute Reservation. overwhelmed. It was really emotional
like the Sun Dance, for me to finally complete this
and we also had a NM&VG: What did you want the run journey and understand what my
sweat lodge in our to accomplish? great-grandfather went through:
backyard. These putting myself in his shoes and
are really big Native KS: We wanted to raise awareness imagining how he felt after running
American staples in our about these boarding schools and countless miles, not even sure which
culture, so I grew up in a reignite interest in the subject. A direction he was going at times and
pretty traditional way. lot of people I'd talk to thought it just trying to get back home.
was something that only happened
once, but they didn’t realize the
NM&VG: How did you NM&VG: Will there be a return of
schools were part of a bigger cultural
become interested the Remembrance Run?
genocide that wasn't taught in basic
in running?
education. We thought of different KS: We haven't made a solid decision
KS: I fell in love things we could do. My dad had yet, but we've thought about hosting
with running very always wanted to put on a backpack Remembrance Runs across the U.S.,
early on. My dad was a hobby jogger and do the full 50-mile trip to get a including Yerington. It'd be a lot
NEVADA MAGAZINE & VISITOR GUIDE

and would take me out in the stroller better understanding of what it was to undertake, but I think it would
with him. Eventually, I'd get out and like for my great-grandfather to go bring a lot of change since it'd bring
start running by him, and then I was through something like that. It was awareness nation-wide. I’m hoping
beating him in races. The first race I right before my senior track season, that it allows people to gain a deeper
completed was a local half mile when and I was a pretty good runner at understanding of Native American
I was 4 years old. that point, so I decided to run it and history, including information about
do a few posts here and there to try the boarding schools. That's all I can
NM&VG: What inspired your idea and raise awareness. Eventually, hope for at the end of the day. I can't
for the 50-mile Remembrance Run? more people wanted to join, and it change the world all at once: just
KS: It was around the time they became this really big thing. piece by piece.
made a discovery of 215 unmarked

104
 R E S E RV E YOU R
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 Clear your mind:
Leave stress behind.
Breathe deep—maybe
Spot a bighorn sheep.
Climb to new heights;
Enjoy starry nights.
Let your soul be bare.

Go on. Get a little out there.