WHERE TO FIND FREE WOOD p.

46

T T L-S S!
E R IZE
P A FU L O N U Better Homes and Gardens®

NS
ISSUE 176 MAY 2007
B

Build it in a Weekend!
Display
Shelves
Plus
11 More Projects
• Outdoor Bench or Trellis
• 3 Picture Frames
• Caterpillar Pull Toy
• 4 Workshop Projects 
Simple
• Asian-Style Biscuit
Box Joints
Make

39
Assembly
Must-Have Easy

Tips & Skills!

Trick Out Your
Display until May 15, 2007

Tablesaw

$6.99 U.S. / $7.95 CAN.

22 Great
Gadgets p.68
 28 in this issue
72

PROJEC TS TECHNIQUES
14 Swing-arm lathe-tool holder 16 Three-way miter joints
28 Super-simple display shelving Form eye-catching corners on projects using a
unique combination of 45° cuts and biscuits.
40 Eye-pleasing pagoda box 21 Tips to avoid accidental splits in wood
58 Easy-to-make garden bench/trellis 24 How to install bandsaw riser blocks
64 Caterpillar pull toy 34 Four easy oak finishes
72 Low-tech, high-appeal picture frames Create distinct looks: pearly light, linseed oil and

40
90 Quick-and-easy bandsaw jig poly, water-base stain and finish, and ebony dark.
Resaw boards and blanks from spectacular wood 38 Make smoothing wood a close shave
in your backyard, firewood pile, or local forest. A noisy planer can gouge figured wood. Thankfully,
there’s a better way. It’s called a scraping plane.
46 Harvest spectacular local wood and $ave
TO O L S & MAT E R I A L S See how a Wisconsin craftsman gathers, saws, seals,
68 19 items to trick out your tablesaw and stores his treasure of free boards and blanks.
Ramp up the performance of your shop’s most
important tool.
76 The many faces of maple D E PA R T M E N T S
Discover the amazing grain patterns of maple and 6 Editor’s Angle
how best to purchase it.
8 Sounding Board
78 Wise buys: hold-ins and hold-downs 10 Ask WOOD®
95 Five shop-proven products 80 Shop Tips
Digital angle gauge; dust collector; four-jaw lathe
chuck; right-angle drill; digital depth-display router. 108 What’s Ahead

46 64

This seal is your assurance that

we build every project, verify
every fact, and test every
reviewed tool in our workshop
to guarantee your success and
complete satisfaction.

2 WOOD magazine May 2007

May 2007 Issue 176
on the web
woodmagazine.com
T H E M OT H ER LO D E O F F R E E
WO O DWO R K I N G K N OW L ED GE
Find the largest collection of free woodworking

58
information on the Internet—from tools to
schools, from hardwoods to hardware—at
WOODWorkersCenter.com. With links to more
than 100 manufacturers and woodworking
catalogs, locate exactly what you’re looking for.
Discover money-saving articles, too.

SEE T H E “ LU M B ER M A K ER ” I N AC T I O N
The Bandsaw Lumber Maker on page 90

38
turns found—even round—wood into
flat, usable stock for projects. WOOD
magazine’s Marlen Kemmet shows how
the jig works in a five-minute video at
woodmagazine.com/videos.
MORE FREE VIDEOS
• Add a riser block to your bandsaw to
boost its resaw capacity.
• See how to use two simple jigs to saw
and sand to shape the graceful lid of the
Pagoda Box on page 40.
• Learn how to set up and use a scraping
plane to smooth figured wood.

I D EN T I F Y T H AT F O U N D WO O D
Intrigued by the idea of finding usable woodworking
wood in your firewood pile (see page 46)? Then check
out the WOOD Profiles section of our Web site at
woodmagazine.com/woodprofiles. There, you’ll learn
the working characteristics of more than 120 American

68 and exotic hardwoods and softwoods such as the

stunning red-streaked boxelder, shown left.

TRY A CL A SSIC COU NTRY FINISH ON

OA K FU R NITU R E
You’ll find four simple but unique
finishes for oak in the article starting on
page 34. But if you favor a more colorful
country-style look, you can learn how to
craft an easy-to-apply aged finish,
shown at right, when you visit
woodmagazine.com/countryoak.
woodmagazine.com 3
 Better Homes and Gardens®

®
May 2007 Vol. 24, No. 2 Issue No. 176
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
BILL KRIER
Executive Editor Managing Editor
JIM HARROLD MARLEN KEMMET
Editorial Manager, Tools and Techniques Senior Design Editor
DAVE CAMPBELL KEVIN BOYLE
Techniques Editor Techniques Editor
BOB WILSON BOB HUNTER
Projects Editor Projects Editor
OWEN DUVALL JAN SVEC
Design Editor Master Craftsman
JEFF MERTZ CHUCK HEDLUND
Jim made jewelry boxes
Art Director Associate Art Director Assistant Art Director Chuck spent 100+ hours
(issue 165) and wine KARL EHLERS GREG SELLERS CHERYL A. CIBULA restoring the wooden cab,
boxes (issue 174) as gifts. box, and wheel spokes of
Production/Office Manager Administrative Assistant his 1923 Model TT truck.
MARGARET CLOSNER SHERYL MUNYON
Photographers
MARTY BALDWIN, JASON DONNELLY, DEAN SCHOEPPNER, JAY WILDE
Illustrators TIM CAHILL, LORNA JOHNSON, ROXANNE LeMOINE
Technical Consultants JEFF HALL, DEAN FIENE, PAT LOWRY
Contributing Craftsman JIM HEAVEY
Proofreaders BARBARA KLEIN, IRA LACHER, JIM SANDERS
CUSTOMER SERVICE
For several ways to reach us about specific matters, see page 8.
Publisher MARK L. HAGEN
ADVERTISING AND MARKETING
CHICAGO: 333 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 1500, Chicago, IL 60601
Phone: 312/580-7956 Fax: 312/580-7906
Marketing Manager AMANDA SALHOOT
Advertising Managers JACK CHRISTIANSEN, CAROLYN DAKIS
Direct Response Advertising Representative RYAN INTERLAND
Mark built this walnut Assistants GAYLE CHEJN, JACI LESKO
Arts & Crafts bed as a
ATLANTA: Navigate Media
college graduation gift
for his daughter, Carly. 1875 Old Alabama Rd., Suite 1320, Roswell, GA 30076
Phone: 678/507-0110 Fax: 678/507-0118
DETROIT: RPM Associates
29350 Southfield Rd., Suite 31, Southfield, MI 48076
Phone: 248/557-7490 Fax: 248/557-7499
Business Manager JEFF STILES
Consumer Marketing Director ROBIN HUTCHINSON
Associate Consumer Marketing Director DAN HOLLAND
Associate Director of Marketing-Newsstand TOM DEERING
Production Manager TIM STOUFFER
Advertising Operations Manager JIM NELSON
Senior Vice President/Publishing Director DOUG OLSON
Group Publisher TOM DAVIS
MEREDITH PUBLISHING GROUP
President JACK GRIFFIN
Editorial Director MIKE LAFAVORE
Finance & Administration KARLA JEFFRIES
Manufacturing BRUCE HESTON
Consumer Marketing DAVID BALL
Creative Services ELLEN de LATHOUDER
Corporate Sales JACK BAMBERGER
Interactive Media LAUREN WIENER
Corporate Marketing NANCY WEBER
Research BRITTA WARE

C O R P O R AT I O N

President and Chief Executive Officer STEPHEN M. LACY

Chairman of the Board WILLIAM T. KERR
C O R P O R AT I O N

C O R P O R AT I O N

In Memoriam — E.T. Meredith III (1933–2003)

Our subscribers list is occasionally made available to carefully
selected firms whose products may be of interest to you.
If you prefer not to receive information from these com-
panies by mail or by phone, please let us know. Send your
request along with your mailing label to Magazine Customer
Service, PO Box 10263, Des Moines, IA 50336-0263.
© Copyright Meredith Corporation 2007. All rights reserved. Printed in the U.S.A.

4 WOOD magazine May 2007

 Ultimate bragging rights:
Your workshop in a Editor’s Angle
national magazine!
Do you have the kind
Challenges and Opportunities,
Pagoda Style
of shop other
woodworkers like to
visit? Is your shop filled
with clever ideas that
help you work smarter,
faster, or safer? If so,
submit your workshop for
publication in America’s
You’ve no doubt heard
Best Home Workshops, the phrase, “In every
Volume 2 (Volume 1, on challenge lies opportu-
sale at newsstands on 6/26/07, is shown above.
nity.” The pagoda box
Size doesn’t matter project on page 40 is a
Your shop doesn’t have to be big, or nit-picky clean.
The ideas could be storage solutions, task-specific jigs, testament to the truth
shop tips, or the special way you designed, built, and of that adage.
outfitted your shop.

I
To be considered, send us your well remember the day
materials by 5/1/07; the first 100 Marlen Kemmet, our manag-
ing editor, returned from
to respond will receive a FREE a West Coast trip. He held a
Best-Ever Workshops magazine, small and exquisite box made
a $6.99 value. of exotic woods. “What do
you think about doing this as a
What to send us: project in the magazine?” he asked.
 3 to 5 photos showing the overall interior layout “I like it!” was my quick reply. “But what controllably bandsaw and drum-sand the
of your shop and 1 exterior photo, if applicable about those upturned, curved lid corners? concave lid top; the second lets you disc-
 5 to 10 close-ups of your problem-solving ideas, How will we tell readers to do that?” Turns sand the convex lid bottom. Just like that,
or dedicated machining or storage areas out that the maker of the box Marlen was the lid became a simple and fun exercise.
 A rough-sketch floor plan that shows overall holding, master woodworker David Selditz
shop dimensions and the locations of doors and of Bellingham, Washington (see his profile Opportunity 2: Many woodworking
windows, tools, storage cabinets, workbenches, on page 44), shapes the lids freehand. But processes are a lot easier to understand
and wood storage I wasn’t convinced we mere mortals would after you see them demonstrated. So
 A quick summary of shop specs, including the type have much luck trying that on the first go. Master Craftsman Chuck Hedlund and
of structure, with details about lighting, heating/air- At times like these, we call in Kevin Editorial Manager Dave Campbell got to
conditioning, electrical service, and Boyle, our senior design editor. It’s his job work on a five-minute video showing you
dust collection to make projects doable for you, or tell us how to use the jigs to shape the lid. You
 A short paragraph about why your shop is great and “no way” (something he rarely says). can view or download the video for free at
As Kevin sat before us, turning the woodmagazine.com/videos. (Even if you’re
how it serves your woodworking interests
pagoda-roof-shaped lid around in his not building the pagoda box, you’ll enjoy
hands, I watched his eyes for clues. First the free videos on the site.)
they opened wide, with eyebrows up.
(Interpretation: “You guys have come up Trim router review: In the last issue we
with a doozy this time.”) Then his focus promised you a test and review of trim
narrowed, eyebrows scrunched together. routers in this issue. As we were wrapping
(Interpretation: “I just might be able to up that test, we learned of several new
make this work.”) models and one that is being discontinued.
Then he said, “I think we can do it with So to make the article as timely as possible,
a jig or two.” Soon we were down the road we’ve taken the rare step of postponing that
of transforming pagoda-box challenges into review until the next issue,
opportunities for you. For example: #177. You can expect a
Mail your submission to: stronger, even more-in-
America’s Best Home Workshops, Volume 2 Challenge: Shaping that curvaceous lid. depth article as a result.
WOOD magazine Opportunity 1: Almost anything in
1716 Locust St., LS-221 woodworking is possible, given the right
Des Moines, IA 50309-3023 jig. The lid provided us with two good
Or e-mail your submission to
ones. The first jig helps you accurately and
homeworkshops@meredith.com
6 WOOD magazine May 2007
Submissions cannot be returned, but please include your name,
address, telephone number, and e-mail address if available.
 Sounding Board
Our bulletin board for letters, comments, and timely updates

Invigorate sapwood for a rich, lustrous look

While finishing a poplar bookcase (shown one part Titebond III wood glue. Be careful
at right) recently, I discovered that the when doing this to avoid overlapping strokes.
lighter-colored sapwood soaked up more But if it happens, just even it out with your
stain than the darker heartwood. Using brush or rag.) After that dried, I sanded it
your method for dealing with sapwood in again with 220. Next, I applied one coat of
issue 171 (September 2006) as a baseline, I water-soluble dark mission brown dye,
tried several different methods to even out followed by two coats of oil-based dark

Photo: David Springer

the color and found success with one that walnut stain. I topcoated the stain with one
I’d like to share. coat of clear shellac and three coats of wipe-
After raising the grain with water and on oil-based polyurethane. It’s hard to tell the
then sanding it smooth to 220 grit, I sapwood now from the heartwood.
brushed on glue size (eight parts water to —David Springer, Carmel, Ind.

Picture this: Volunteers A real shipshape case

Photo: Neal Ray Shoger

help to meet Unmet Needs Just when my wife was urging me to find a
Woodworkers from around the U.S. have better place to display one of my wooden
built and donated more than 350 picture model ships (an 1812 French frigate), issue
frames as of Feb. 1, 2007, for the Unmet 171 (September 2006) of WOOD®
Needs program (issue 169, April/May magazine arrived with the perfect project.
2006, page 93). On Oct. 18, 2006, the In just a short time, I built a modified
Kansas City Woodworkers’ Guild version of the tabletop curio case on page
presented more than 200 handcrafted 54. Because the ship’s size exceeded the
mahogany frames to the Veterans of dimensions in
Foreign Wars Foundation, which your plan, I had
administers the Unmet Needs program. to expand the
The VFW Foundation uses the frames as case to
gifts for families of military personnel, for 14×28×30".
awards given to volunteer military family I also made
members, family readiness groups, and it from pine
other special items for the families of to match the
deployed service members, according to Southwestern
Crystal Lauver of the VFW Foundation. style furnish-

Photo: Bert de Pedro

If you’d like to build and donate frames, ings in my
Jim Bany, left, president of the Kansas City go to woodmagazine.com/unmetneeds for home.
Woodworkers’ Guild, presents a frame to plans and decals. —Bert de Pedro,
VFW representative Bud Haney. —WOOD editors Silver City, N.M.

HOW TO REACH US
 For woodworking advice:  Subscription assistance:  To order past issues and articles:
Post your woodworking questions (joinery, finishing, To notify us of an address change, or to get help with Order past issues of WOOD magazine, our special issues,
tools, turning, general woodworking, etc.) on one of your subscription, visit woodmagazine.com/service. or downloadable articles from issue 100 to present: Visit
14 online forums at woodmagazine.com/forums. Or write to WOOD magazine, P.O. Box 37439, Boone, IA our online store at woodmagazine.com/store, or call
50037-0439. Please enclose your address label from a 888/636-4478. Some issues are sold out.
 To contact our editors: recent magazine issue.
Send your comments via E-mail to  Updates to previously published projects:
woodmail@woodmagazine.com; or call  To find past articles: For an up-to-date listing of changes in dimensions
800/374-9663 and press option 2; or write to See our index at woodmagazine.com/index. and buying-guide sources from issue 1 through today,
WOOD magazine, 1716 Locust St., LS-221, go to woodmagazine.com/editorial.
Des Moines, IA 50309.

8 WOOD magazine May 2007

Ask WOOD HAVE A QUESTION?
For an answer to your woodworking question,
Answers to your questions from write to ASK WOOD, 1716 Locust St., LS-221,
letters, e-mails, and WOOD Online® Des Moines, IA 50309-3023, or e-mail us at
askwood@woodmagazine.com.

Shed light on window finish

Q: I am in the process of refinish-
ing wooden casement window
frames. What kind of finish should
I use? Is there a difference between
24-tooth blade
spar varnish and marine varnish?
Would any products hold up better
than these?
—Leon Wallwey, Midland, Mich.

A: Neither spar varnish nor marine

varnish will work best on window
frames, although for different reasons,
Leon. Window glass allows enough UV
light through to degrade the UV inhibitors
in most oil-based spar varnishes. Once the
UV light breaks down the wood fibers, the
wood releases the finish and begins to
discolor and decay.
Many true marine varnishes use UV-
40-tooth blade resistant phenolic resins and tung oil, but
they leave a flexible, soft finish not meant
for interior use. Marine varnishes tend to
be much more expensive and harder to find
than spar or interior film finishes.
For an interior finish that uses UV-
resistant phenolic resins and tung oil, one
option is Waterlox Original Sealer and
Finish (call 800/321-0377 or visit waterlox.
com). At $27 a quart, it’s still not cheap.
But you also can buy it in 2-oz. containers
for $5.70 each for small touch-up jobs. It
won’t eliminate this chore, but refinishing
your window frames won’t become an
Choose the best small blade for big jobs annual ritual.

Q: I need a 7¼" blade to cut 4×8'

sheets of plywood for cabinets.
What style of portable circular saw
through the zero-clearance base to cover
the spinning blade.
Like a zero-clearance insert on a
Whichever replacement finish you
choose needs to be applied to sound wood.
So sand and restain sun- and water-
blade will give me the best perfor- tablesaw, this base keeps wood fibers along damaged areas before refinishing.
mance and the least amount of the edges of the cut from being pulled
splintering? upward by the blade teeth. To make a zero-
—Charles Brozek, Zion, Ill. clearance base, cut a scrap piece of ‹"
hardboard to match the size of the saw’s

A: Those basic 24-tooth blades that

come with many circular saws were
meant for rough carpentry, Charles, not
base plate. Then retract the saw blade
above the base, and attach the zero-
clearance plate using double-face tape (or
chip-free cuts in veneer plywood. For screws, if the base has mounting holes).
smoother cuts with less tear-out, move up Make certain the edge of the insert on
to a 40-tooth blade. They cost only slightly either side is flush with the base plate edge.
more than those basic blades—we spent Rest the zero-clearance base on the edge
$15—but the resulting cut quality is worth of your workbench where the blade won’t
the added price, as you can see above. cut the bench. Start the saw, and plunge
For even less tear-out, attach a zero- the blade through the zero-clearance base
clearance base to the circular saw plate. to roughly the desired depth. Use the saw
But handle the saw carefully because the as you normally would, alone or with a
telescoping blade guard will not extend straightedge. continued on page 12

10 WOOD magazine May 2007

Ask WOOD A N

B O

Here’s the catch

C P with collets
SELF-RELEASING COLLET PARTS

Q: When I loosenD Q my router’s

collet nut, the collet won’t
E R
release the bit. I have to turn the nut
the tapered hole at the end of the router
spindle, tightening the collet on the bit. Collet recess
Loosening the nut to remove a bit allows
Collet

by hand almost two S the nut to spin within the collet recess.
F full turns, and Collet nut
then the nut tightens again. Then I But the collet and bit remain wedged flange
G T
have to use the wrenches again to within the spindle until the nut flange
loosen the nut andHfree U the bit. Do I pushes up on the collet, popping the
have a problem? V
collet loose.
I
—John Frey, Berryville, Ark. If you don’t notice this sort of play in Collet nut
J W the collet nut, that could be a problem. It

A: Relax, John. TheXfree travel in the

K
collet nut doesn’t
Y
It’s called a self-releasing
signal a problem.
collet, and it’s a
could mean you’ve placed the bit too deep
within the collet, preventing the collet
jaws from gripping the bit shank. Avoid
Router
spindle
L
good feature. Inside a self-releasing
Z collet, this problem by always keeping bits about
the collet nut flange Mpushes the collet into „" from the bottom of the spindle.

Avoid stone storage snafus

Q: I use and store my water stones
and grinder wheels in our
heated basement. Can I use nontoxic
antifreeze instead of water and allow
them to soak in my unheated garage?
—David Hayes, Milwaukee

FILENAME:175AW_#100504296.eps
Date: 9-06
A:
David.
You can avoid the threat entirely by
storing stones and wheels dry,
Most
Filename: 175
stones require only a five-
R LeMoine
Lorna J. minute soak before use. After soaking a
8-23
stone, place a small puddle of water on its
surface to test for readiness. If water stays
on the surface, the stone is ready to use. If
it sinks into the stone, soak it longer.
Afterward, dry the stones thoroughly, away
from direct sun or high heat, and store
them in a ventilated container. Store wheels
as the grinder instructions recommend.
Some stones deteriorate if stored soaking
in chemicals or even just water. Before
doing so, read the water stone’s
instructions, or ask the supplier how to
store specific stones.

Stones are designed to work only with water

to create a slurry for honing.

12 WOOD magazine May 2007

How to place Stuck with clogged nozzles
a fair price on walnut
Q: A friend has some rough-sawn
walnut that was in his late
Q: How do you keep the
nozzles of spray adhe-
sive cans from clogging? I have
father-in-law’s basement for 30 years. tried tipping the cans upside Before
Now, he wants to get rid of it. We think down and spraying, but it hasn’t
it was from the same tree. What is a worked. Now, I have two half-full
fair price for 30-year-old, air-dried 5/4 cans with clogged nozzles.
walnut? I’d like to get a good deal, but —Nate Denniston, Charlotte, Mich.
I also want to be fair with my friend. Tipping the can upside down and
—Dennis Almond, Riedsville, N.C.
A: To salvage your half-empty cans,
Nate, try soaking the nozzles for 5
spraying helps clear the nozzle in most
cases, so continue that practice. Then take

A: First assess the quality of the

lumber, Dennis, especially if it has
been stored in a basement where dampness
minutes in lacquer thinner in a small glass
or metal container such as a baby food jar.
Then wipe the nozzle clean and reinstall it
an added step against clogs and build-up by
wiping a small amount of petroleum jelly
on the outside of the nozzle before you
could have caused warpage and on the can. store the can. ¿
discoloration. Lumber that’s been stored
outdoors at any time also might suffer
insect damage, especially from powder-
post beetles. Then use a moisture meter to
check several boards throughout the stack.
Moisture should be 6 to 10 percent for your
area. Compare pieces to see if they come
from the same tree. If so, that could allow
you opportunities to bookmatch boards in
glue-ups. After you check a sample with a
metal detector, plane it to uncover any
flaws, decay, or undesirable color.
Now that you know what you’re buying,
begin assessing its value by checking your
local newspaper classified ads for
comparable lumber, even if it’s kiln-dried.
Then contact area lumberyards for their
rough-sawn walnut prices. For example, we
checked Riedsville-area hardwood dealers
and learned kiln-dried 5/4 walnut was
selling for around $4.75 per board foot for
quantities less than 100 board feet. Increase
or decrease your offer according to the
quality of the wood; then make an offer.

woodmagazine.com 13
 Great Ideas for Your Shop

Swing-Arm
Lathe-Tool
Holder
Keep your lathe tools and
accessories close at hand with
this easy-to-make organizer.

B
uild a holder as shown or customize
it to fit your tool needs. Begin by
measuring the distance between your
ways to create the sliding
support shown in the draw-
ings and the inset photo. END VIEW DETAIL
Make the sliding support
›"-16 x 3" ›"-16 knob
about ¤" narrower than the roundhead
opening between the ways, machine screw
and the top edge of the ›" lock washer
support ¤" lower than the top
edge of the ways. ›" flat
washers
Our pivoting arm measures
31fi" long, but you can Tighten the knob to secure the sliding
ARM
shorten it if you need fewer support and arm to the metal ways.
tools at lathe side. To create WAY
the holes for the tools,
measure the diameter of your
›" T-nut SLIDING
lathe-tool ferrules and use SUPPORT
Forstner or spade bits to drill
holes ¤" larger than that Â" hole, centered
dimension. For skews, where R=1"
the blade can be wider than the ferrule, R=1"
A N 6"
measure the widest diameter of the tool 7‹"
handle
B and O drill the mounting hole
2fi"
‹" smaller. EXPLODED VIEW 31fi" 2"
P
C assembled
Once and attached to the lathe
bed, Dthe holder can stay put on your lathe2 END VIEW DETAIL Diameter of
Q tool ferrule
stocked with turning tools; or remove the plus ¤"
E R ›" flat
tools and slide off the holder, hanging it washer
fromFa wall S hook for later use. ¿ ‡" ›" rabbets
fi" deep fi" hole with a
G T 1" 1" counterbore
¤" deep on
Project design: Bill Adler, West Des Moines, IA ‡" bottom face
H U
Holes to ‹" chamfers
V fit turning
Find
I more shop organizer plans at: accessories 4fi"
1‡" ‡"
Jwoodmagazine.com/freeplans
W ARM Width is
R=3" determined
X by your lathe SLIDING
K
FILENAME: 176GIFY1a_#100504464.eps Filename: 175Lathetool HLDR GIFY SUPPORT
Date: 9-06 Y R LeMoine ›" T-nut
Lorna J.L
Z 9-25-06
M
14 WOOD magazine May 2007
Just-Right Joinery

Three-Way
Miter
Joints
This baffling but beautiful union shows
no end grain, and goes together easier
than you might think.
SHOP TIP
Fine-tune your miters

T
hree-way-miter-joint parts flow into This frame test will uncover
a delicate point at the corners. Yet even minor miter gauge mis-
hidden splines make these joints adjustments. Begin with strips
strong as well as decorative, letting you add of scrap cut at least 2½" wide
and 10" long. Set the miter <45°
drama to a variety of projects, such as the
table shown on page 20. gauge to 45° and cut opposite
sides in pairs. Fit three sides of
Although simple to cut and assemble, the Inside gap
the frame tightly together and
joint’s miter cuts demand accurate saw and check for gaps after inserting
miter gauge setups. First align your table- the fourth piece.
saw’s miter slot dead-on parallel with the A gap on the inside of the
blade, and the blade 90° to the table. Next, frame means the miter gauge Outside gap
install a miter gauge extension roughly 4" is cutting less than 45°, while a >45°
longer than your longest project part, and gap on the outside indicates an
set the angle to 45°. For absolute accuracy, angle greater than 45°. When all
perform the frame miter test shown in the eight cuts form four miters with
Shop Tip at right. no gaps, your miter gauge is
As you plane stock to size, check each dead-on accurate. No gaps
piece for squareness at all four corners and,
using a caliper, Photo 1 , check for equal Cut the first pairs of miters miter on one end, Photo 2 . Turn the
width and thickness. Machine extra stock After fine-tuning your miter gauge and cut- mitered edge up, and align the miter tip with
for practice cuts and stop blocks. For this ting a zero-clearance kerf in a miter gauge the zero-clearance kerf, Photo 3 . Cut the
demonstration, we ripped pieces 1fi" square extension, hold or clamp the workpieces second miter, and check that the two cuts
and 6" over length. firmly against the extension and cut a 45° match and that the end comes to a sharp tip,

Miter gauge extension

Align the mitered tip with
the zero-clearance kerf.

1 2 3
continued on page 18
16 WOOD magazine May 2007
Just-Right Joinery

Photo 4 . Repeat these pairs of miters on

one end of each part.
To cut parts to length, clamp a 45° mitered
stop block to the miter gauge, Photo 5 .
Cuts intersect Turn the stop
This protects the pointed ends and keeps here … block miter
you from accidentally cutting miters on the toward the miter
wrong edge or face. Repeat the miter cuts on gauge extension.
all parts.

Rout the spline slots

To reinforce these end-to-end joints, you’ll
add ‹"-thick plywood splines to slots in
each miter. To prevent misalignments, pre-
cisely center each slot on the miter. Start by
… and here.
installing a ‹" straight bit in a table-mounted 4 5
router, with the height ¤" less than half the
thickness of your workpieces. Then set the
router table fence to center the cut on the
end of a scrap the same width as the parts.
Make a test cut on the scrap and measure
from the cut and both edges of the scrap
using a dial caliper, Photo 6 . Adjust the
fence until the dimensions are equal on both Stop
sides of the slot. block
Attach a stopblock to the router table
Avoid routing
fence to keep the cut from intruding onto into the faces
the face or edge of the workpiece. Then rout of the parts.
slots into each miter, Photo 7 .

Cut splines to fit the slots 6 7

Measure the slot depth, and cut strips of
‹"-thick plywood Î" narrower than the
slot depth. Then bandsaw the strips into
square splines and chamfer all edges of Spline corners
each spine by rubbing them against 100- should rest just
grit abrasive on a flat surface. Each spline beneath where
the cuts intersect.
should drop just more than halfway into
the slots, Photo 8 .

Build the joints

Start by assembling four pieces to create a
frame. Working on a dead-flat surface, such
as a bench or saw table, insert the splines
between each piece and check the fits for
snugness. Then apply a white glue to the 8 9
splines and the miters to be joined. We
choose white glue because it dries clear and
performs as well as yellow glue. Press the
pieces of each joint tightly together and tape
them in place on the top and bottom, Photo
9 . Avoid dripping glue into the slots for the
.

other two splines. If your project uses an

opposing frame, assemble that as well. If
your project uses a bound panel, insert it
before taping the joints.
To connect two frames, glue and insert
the two remaining splines in each joint,
Photo 10 . Then glue the four connecting
pieces in place and tape each joint securely,
Photo 11 . 10 11
continued on page 20

18 WOOD magazine May 2007

Just-Right Joinery

After the glue dries, remove the tape,

and sand the joints smooth, as shown in
Photo 12 . Avoid accidentally sanding
over the edges or points. Should you
discover tiny gaps, fill them with a paste
made from sanding dust of the same
wood species mixed with white glue
that’s thinned 25 percent with water.

12

Try different variations

In addition to creating a simple cube or
rectangle, you can modify three-way
miter joints by adding loose or bound
panels or panes of glass. To hold the
loose top panel for this table, Photo 13 ,
rabbet the inside top edge of each piece
in the top frame before assembly.
For a more dramatic effect, rabbet the
inside top edges of the top frame, and
then cut grooves on centerlines beneath
the rabbet to hold a bound panel so you
can display items beneath an acrylic or
glass top, as shown on page 16. ¿

13

20 WOOD magazine May 2007

Avoiding Workshop Goofs

Split
Decisions
Prevent accidental cracks in your workpieces by
implementing these proven tips.

A
split in a workpiece, especially one that’s been
machined to finished dimensions, can force you to
make time-consuming changes or repairs when you’d
rather be finishing a project. Because they’re easier to avoid
than fix, make the following tips full-time habits.

TIP 1: Predrill for screws and nails.

Drill correct-size shank- and pilot-holes for screws, according to Find the Right Screw Gauge
the chart at right, or make a good guess by eyeballing, as shown Pilot Hole For
below. This proves especially critical near the ends and edges of a Your Screws #4 #6 #8 #10 #12 #14
workpiece, which split easier than the field. With some softwoods Flathead wood
you can get by without holes by using self-tapping screws (which screws Shank hole 7⁄64 9 ⁄64 ¸ ‰ ˛ ‹
bore their own pilot holes), shown below right. But these screws
will split many hardwoods and even some softwoods such as Pilot hole
(hardwood)
5 ⁄64 Ï 7⁄64 ¤ 9 ⁄64 ¸
cedar and redwood. The same goes for medium-density fiber-
Screw Type

board (MDF), which splits easily. When in doubt, play it safe: You Pilot hole
(softwood) „ 5 ⁄64 Ï 7⁄64 ¤ 9 ⁄64
can’t go wrong with shank- and pilot-holes.
Multi-purpose
You also should apply the same guidelines when hammering screws
Pilot hole
nails. You can get by most times without pilot holes in softwood, (hardwood)
5 ⁄64 7⁄64 ¤ 9 ⁄64 ¸ ‰
but it’s best to not take chances. To avoid a split, drill a pilot hole
roughly three-fourths the diameter of the nail shank.
Pilot hole
(softwood) „ Ï 7⁄64 ¤ 9 ⁄64 ¸

TIP 2: Don’t overdrive screws.

That last little oomph can cause a wood split, as shown at the top
Self-tapping
of this page, especially in softwoods and softer hardwoods.
screws feature Instead, find the appropriate clutch setting on your drill/driver to
a groove at the avoid overtightening screws. Do this on test material in your
tip that bores its shop, or set your clutch on a low setting and ramp it up as
own pilot hole. needed. You also can leave the screw slightly proud of the
Determine a screw’s pilot-hole size
by holding a drill bit against it. The surface and then finish driving it by hand with a screwdriver.
appropriate bit will cover the shank
but not the threads. continued on page 22

woodmagazine.com 21
Avoiding Workshop Goofs
TIP 3: Dry-fit all assemblies.
Assembling pieces without glue allows you to check the fit of
joints and avoid potential splits at glue-up. Tenons too tight in
their mortises can cause splits, as shown below. A good mortise-
and-tenon joint should go together easily by hand, but not be
loose enough to fall apart. Avoid too-thin mortise walls, which
split easily, by never making them less than ‹" thick. You also
can divide your workpiece thickness into thirds, creating two
mortise walls and one tenon of equal thicknesses.

Trim tenons so they slide into mortises snugly. This tenon was too
thick, causing the thin mortise wall to split.

TIP 4: Allow for wood movement.

Wood shrinks and swells as it adjusts to seasonal changes in
humidity, so design and assemble projects with this in mind.
Fasten wide tops to cases with hardware, such as that shown
below, designed to hold securely but still allow wood movement.
Screwing or gluing tops tight to a case likely will result in a split
top when the wood moves.

Tabletop fasteners hold the top tightly but still can slide in the
saw-kerf groove to allow for wood expansion across the grain.

Frame-and-panel assemblies, such as the one shown below,

also need room for swelling and shrinking. Leave about a
¤" gap in each groove for unglued panels to expand. ¿

Cut panels short of a tight fit in the frame grooves, such as with this
cutaway of a rail-and-stile cabinet door.

Source
Tabletop fasteners: Rockler part #34215, pack of 8, $2.30, call 800/279-4441
or rockler.com.

22 WOOD magazine May 2007

Tool Shop

8 Easy steps
to installing a
riser block Saw arm

Boost your bandsaw’s resawing

capacity by 6" when you add
this simple-to-install accessory.
Riser block

Watch a FREE 4-minute video

showing these installation steps
in action at:
woodmagazine.com/
woodmagazine.com/videos

S
ometimes an extra 6" of resawing 1 2
capacity on your bandsaw can make a
huge difference. Say you want to cut
veneer or book-matched panels from a
beautifully figured board that’s too wide to
fit between your bandsaw table and upper
blade guides. Wouldn’t it be great to solve
the problem with an inexpensive kit and
half an hour’s work?
What you need is a riser block—a
simple extension that fits between the base
and arm of a typical cast-iron bandsaw
frame. Not all saws accept a riser block,
but many popular 14" models do. (Check
your owner’s manual or ask your dealer to
find out if you have the option.) Your riser
block kit should also include a longer
guide post, connector bolt, blade, and
blade guards. Expect to pay your dealer
between $60 and $90 for the entire works.
Begin by removing the blade, upper
blade guides, guide post, and both blade
guards. Store the parts in a labeled box or
bag. Next, follow the steps shown here to The typical riser block includes indexing
install the riser block kit. Although you holes on the bottom and matching pins
on the top, so it’s self-aligning. If your riser
can do it alone, you may want to enlist an Remove the bolt that holds the saw arm to block has no pins, align the outer edges flush
assistant to help when you reinstall the the base. The arm simply lifts off, but be with the base. Reinstall the saw arm,
saw arm. prepared—it’s heavy and awkward. as shown in the photo at the top of the page.
Remaining steps on page 26
24 WOOD magazine May 2007
 Tool Shop
3 4

The Woodworking Shows is the

premier event for woodworkers!
Learn from the experts, find unique
woodworking tools, see how-to
demonstrations, and save on
tools and supplies. Free
educational attractions provide
endless opportunities for you to
sharpen your woodworking skills
during this 3-day event!

2007 SCHEDULE Place the connector bolt into the slot on the
saw arm, and set the saw arm atop the riser
The power-switch position varies from one
bandsaw to another; ours stays at its origi-
Mar 2-4 St. Paul, MN block. Access is tight, but you can reach the nal height by attaching to threaded screw
connector bolt head and nut with box-end holes in the riser block. If your switch moves
Mar 16-18 Chantilly, VA or open-end wrenches. (On our bandsaw, to a higher position, you might have to
Mar 23-25 Tampa, FL the head and the nut take different-size increase the cord’s available length; some-
Mar 30 - Apr 1 Houston, TX wrenches.) Tighten the bolt securely. times that’s as simple as removing a wire tie.
Apr 13-15 Pleasonton, CA
Apr 20-22 Sacramento, CA 5 6
Apr 27-29 Seattle, WA
May 4-6 Pomona, CA

Now, start to install the other components Blade guides come in a variety of styles, but
of the riser-block kit. The longer rear blade most reattach easily to their new guide post.
guard mounts just like the original one. The Simply slide the upper blade guides onto the
guard shown above fits over two attachment new post, and then tighten the unit in place.
—At— posts, and two screws secure it in place. On this model, a single bolt does the job.
The Woodworking Shows 7 8

Learn to build projects

from WOOD Magazine! ®

WOOD’s Master Craftsman

Jim Heavey will demonstrate
important tips and techniques
as he walks you through
three projects. Learn about
construction, veneers,
joinery, finishing and more!
Lay a long straightedge across both wheels,
and check to make sure it touches the rims
at all four possible contact points. If so, the
Active-duty Military, Fire and Police wheels are in the same plane, or “coplanar.”
Admitted FREE! To eliminate any gaps, turn the adjustment
Install the longer blade, then finish the job knob to tilt the top wheel. For more on
Call 800-826-8257 or visit by adding the new front blade guard. Again, bandsaw wheel alignment, see WOOD
www.thewoodworkingshows.com it’s a one-wrench procedure. magazine 144 (October 2002), page 80. ¿
or www.woodmagazine.com
26 WOOD magazine May 2007
for more information.
Super-simple

Shelves
for
Show

BONUS: See a Slide Show

of extra project assembly shots at:
woodmagazine.com/slides

28 WOOD magazine May 2007

 A N 1 LEGS 1a TOP VIEW
(Inside face of left-front and (Left-front and right-rear leg
right-rear leg pairs shown) pairs shown)
B O

C P 2‹" 2fi" ‹" hole ›" deep

‡" dado
D 2›" ‹" deep ›"
Q Location of parts #20 biscuit
slot
PROJECT HIGHLIGHTS
E R Biscuit-slot Location of
C , D , and E
2fi"
B 1¤"
centerline parts C and D ‹"
 It assembles quicklyFandSeasily with
biscuits, screws, and a dado joint. ‹" A
 Overall dimensions G are 44"
T wide × #20 biscuit ‡"
17½" deep × 79" high. slot (cut after 4"
U (we used
H oak assembling ‹"
 Materials needed: Red leg pairs) 2‹"
quartersawn) and red oak V plywood. A B
I ‡" dado ‹" deep
13‹"
Skill Builders J W
 Plunge in and learn the ABCs of MARK SHELF-SUPPORT HOLES
biscuit joinery. X
K
 Discover how to assemble Y a large
project in stages with aL few clamps.
Z 13‹"
M
78‹"

Start with the legs ‹"

1 Cut the front/back and side legs (A, B)

to the sizes listed [Materials List, page
32]. Lay out the angled end at the bottom of
1›"
(from edge)
‹" hole
›" deep
13‹"

1"
PARTS VIEW

a leg [Drawing 1]. Bandsaw and sand to the 1a TOP VIEW

Location of (Left-front and right-rear leg pairs shown)
line. Using this leg as a template, mark the Biscuit-slot parts C , D , and F ›"
angle on the remaining front/back and side centerline
legs. Bandsaw and sand them to shape. Location of 19"

2 Pair together the front/back and side

legs (A, B). Noting the orientation of
the angled ends for each pair [Drawing 2],
5›"
2‡"
parts C and D
4‡"
3" 2‡"
B B B B

identify the location (left front, right rear,

Œ" Œ"
etc.) and the inside face on each leg to ensure FILENAME:176DisShelf1a_#100504593.eps Filenam
correct machining and assembly. Then, Date:
FRONT/BACK LEG 12-06 SIDE LEG R LeMo
Lorna J. A
using a dado blade in your tablesaw, cut a ¾" Clamp the side legs (B) together with the 10-18-0
dado ¼" deep on the inside face of each side Note: Left-rear and right-front
leg pairs are mirror image. ends flush. Mark centerpoints for shelf-
leg, where dimensioned, to fit the front/back support holes on the legs using a square.
legs [Drawings 1 and 1a].

3 Mark centerpoints on masking tape for plunge these after assembling the top and
¼" holes 3/8" deep on the inside face of bottom rail assemblies.
COMPLETE THE TOP RAIL ASSEMBLY
G
the side legs (B) [Drawing 1, Photo A] to
receive ¼" shelf supports. Using a brad- 3 To mount the top (O) later, mark
centerpoints 3/8" apart for drilling end
point bit wrapped with a piece of masking holes to form a centered 3/16" slot 9/16" long at
G
D
tape for a visual depth stop, drill the holes. each end of the top cleats (G) [Drawing 3a].
Sand the legs to 220 grit. Drill /16" holes at the marked points. Then
3
G

4 For each pair of legs (A/B), glue and drill overlapping holes1toLEGS
(Inside
clamp the front/back leg (A) into the dado
in the side leg (B), keeping the ends flush.
Nowface drillofaleft-front
centered and
complete the slots.
right-rearshank
countersunk
hole in the bottom face of each cleat.
leg pairs shown)
C
E

Make the rail assemblies 4 Mark the centers and ends of the arches
on the top/bottom front rails (C) and

1 Cut the top/bottom front rails (C), top/ bottom side rails (F) [Drawing 3]. Draw the
bottom back rails (D), top side rails (E), arches using a fairing stick. (For a free fair-
B
With the side rails (E) and cleats (G) glued to
bottom side rails (F), and top cleats (G) to ing stick plan, go to woodmagazine.com/ the back rail (D), glue, biscuit, and clamp the
the sizes listed. fairing.) Bandsaw and drum-sand the arches front rail (C) to the assembly.
FILENAME:176DisShelf1_#100504592.eps
2 Mark centerlines
on the front/back
for #20 biscuit slots to the marked lines.
Date:legs
12-06
Lorna J.
(A) and parts C
through G, where dimensioned [Drawings 1 5 Sand parts C through G smooth. Then R LeMoine
Filename: 176 Displayshelves 1
glue each top side rail (E) to a top cleat 10-18-06 6
To assemble the bottom rails and shelf,
glue, biscuit, and clamp together the
and 3]. Using your biscuit joiner with the (G), keeping the parts square. Next, glue, bottom front rail (C), back rail (D), and side
parts clamped to your workbench for safety, biscuit, and clamp the side rail/cleat assem- rails (F). Measure for equal diagonals to
plunge a centered slot at each marked loca- blies and remaining center top cleat to the verify square. Next, cut the bottom shelf (H)
tion, except the mating locations on the top back rail (D) [Drawing 3]. (Positioning to size to fit the assembly. Sand smooth.
front/back legs and outside face of the top/ the parts upside down makes this easy.) Now glue the shelf to the assembly, keeping
bottom front and back rails (C, D). You’ll Now add the top front rail (C) [Photo B]. the edges and ends flush.

woodmagazine.com 29
 A N

B O
2 EXPLODED VIEW P
C
D Q ⁄ " pilot hole fi" deep
7 64

44" 17fi"
E R
#8 x 1fi" F.H. wood screw O
F
S J ¤" chamfers all around 2a SHELF FRONT
G N
I EDGING DETAIL
G T G
M
U R P ‡"
¸" shank hole, H D C 1‹"
N
countersunk V
I E
fi"
10fi" W ›" rabbet
J M
#8 x 1‹" brass fi" deep
X roundhead screw ›"
K
Y
I L
1" L
L Z #8 brass K
#8 x 1fi" M flat washer
F.H. wood
screw

3" Q
‹" shelf
64‡" support B 12fi"

A
9fi" J A 36Œ" 2a SHELF FRONT
R
EDGING DETAIL
34fi" P
K B F 38›"
M A Q
B D N
I
1‹"
fi" H C
FILENAME:176DisShelf2a_#100504595.eps Filename:
4‡" F Date: 12-06
Lorna J.
¤" chamfers J R LeMoin
11-29-06
M 34fi"
I 2Œ" 8fi"

¤" ¤" chamfer ‡" ›" cove

chamfers
N ›" cove

7 To cut the biscuit slots in the front/back

legs (A), place a ¾"-thick spacer under
your biscuit joiner and plunge the slots at the
of the spacer.) Again using the spacer, cut
the mating slots in the outside face of the
top/bottom front and back rails (C, D).
D/E/G) and bottom rail/shelf assembly (C/
D/F/H) [Drawings 2 and 3], making sure that
the legs and top rail/cleat assembly are flush
marked locations [Photo C]. (This positions
the center of the slots 11/8" from the bottom 8 Glue, biscuit, and clamp the back legs
(A/B) to the top rail/cleat assembly (C/
at the top. Then add the front legs to the
assemblies [Photo D].

PLUNGE THE LEG BISCUIT SLOTS ATTACH THE FRONT LEGS ASSEMBLE THE BACK SLATS AND TRIM

B
Biscuit-slot
centerline 2 EXPLODED VIEW L ¹⁄₈" spacers

B A L
Top end A
of leg
C
9½"
2³⁄₈"
A
FILENAME:176DisShelf2_#100504594.eps Filename: 176 Displayshelves 4
Date: 12-06 J
Lorna J. ¾" spacer
4'-long
supports
R LeMoine
B 11-29-06
C D E
Place a ‡"-thick spacer under your biscuit After attaching the back legs (A/B) to the With the back slats (L) on ¤" spacers and
joiner on the inside face of a side leg (B). rail assemblies, turn the unit over and glue, positioned 9fi" from the ends of the back
Plunge the slot into the front or back leg (A). biscuit, and clamp the front legs in place. trim (J), screw-mount the trim to the slats.

30 WOOD magazine May 2007

 3 TOP/BOTTOM RAIL ASSEMBLIES
2‹" ¸" shank hole,
countersunk
19‹" #20 biscuit and centered on
slot bottom face
Location of 14"
part B G 1¤"
3" #20 biscuit
D G E
G ›"
E 12" 12"
4‡"
‡" C
3‹"
4‡"
2‹"
#20 biscuit slots, centered 2›"
A N

B O 38fi" 3a TOP CLEAT SLOT DETAIL

C P 1¤"
›"
B D Q
1fi" 1"
A
E R
13fi"
S 38fi" G
F
‰" slot
G T ¨" long,
H centered
H U
12"
V
I
J W 4‡" 3‹"
D F
X
K Œ"
Y
L 3a TOP CLEAT SLOT DETAIL
Z #20 biscuit slot, C
FM centered
D
J

A
#20 biscuit

B
Bottoms of parts
D and J flush
Add the trim and slats
1 Cut the side trim (I) and front/back
3 TOP/BOTTOM RAIL ASSEMBLIES trim 4
To mount the back trim/slat
assembly (J/L), apply glue to
(J) to the sizes listed. (To ensure a snug the inside (nonchamfered) edges of
E

fit, we measured between the legs for the the trim. Then clamp the assembly
exact lengths of the trim. Then we identified in position on the shelving unit, Filenam
Filename: 176 Displayshelves
the locations of the pieces to ensure correct keeping the bottom face of the top
2 THE BACK TRIM/SLATS
MOUNT
R LeMoine R LeMo
assembly.) Now cut the side slats (K) and trim and bottom edge of the top
ME:176DisShelf3_#100504596.eps
back slats (L) to the indicated sizes.
FILENAME:176DisShelf3a_#100504597.eps
back rail11-29-06
(D)Date:
flush [12-06
Drawing 4, Photo
11-29-0
06
2 Rout 1/8" chamfers along the outside F]. Note thatLorna the topJ.face of the bot-
edges and ends of the side trim (I) and tom trim (J) is ¼" proud of the bottom shelf
front/back trim (J) [Drawings 2 and 4]. Sand (H). Now mount the side trim/slat assem-
the trim and slats (K, L). blies (I/K) to the unit, positioning them in J L

3 To assemble the top and bottom back the same way. L

trim (J) and back slats (L), lay out the
parts with the outside faces up on a flat 5
Glue and clamp the bottom front trim
(J) to the bottom shelf (H), flush with
worksurface. Place spacers under the slats the top face. Sand the joint smooth. J
to position them 1/8" from the inside face
of the trim [Drawing 4, Photo E], and locate 6
To form the front/back and side cove
trim (M, N), cut a ½×6×36" blank. Rout
the slats 9½" from the ends of the trim a 3/8" cove along each edge of the blank. H
[Drawing 2]. Clamp the trim and slats to Then rip a ¾"-wide strip from each edge.
your worksurface. Then drill mounting Repeat to make four more strips. Then
holes through the trim and centered into the crosscut the front/back and side trim pieces F
slats, and drive the screws. Again using the to length from the strips to fit snugly Glue and clamp the back trim/slat assembly
spacers, mount the side trim (I), centered between the legs. Glue and clamp the trim (J/L) in place, aligning the bottoms of the top
end to end, to the side slats (K). pieces in place [Drawing 2]. back trim (J) and back rail (D) flush.

woodmagazine.com 31
 Cutting Diagram
On to the top and shelves Finish up A

1 Edge-join stock to form an 18×44½"A

1
N For ease of finishing, remove the top ‡ x 5fi x 96" Quartersawn red oak (4 bd. ft.) (2 needed)
piece for the top (O). Then crosscut andB O (O). Finish-sand any areas of the unit B G
rip the top to the finished size of 17½×44". that need it to 220 grit, and remove the dust. ‡ x 5fi x 96" Quartersawn red oak (4 bd. ft.) (2 needed)

2
Rout 1/8" chamfers along the top and bottomC P Finish the project as you wish. For three
I J
edges and ends of the top [Drawings 2 andD Q easy-to-apply and great-looking finish C D E
4]. Sand the top smooth. options, see page 34. (For our project, we ‡ x 7‹ x 96" Quartersawn red oak (5.3 bd. ft.) (2 needed)

2 Clamp the top (O) to the unit, centeredE

front-to-back and side-to-side. Using
the mounting holes and slots in the top cleatsF
chose the General Finishes water-based
R
Early American stain and a water-based
S
polyurethane topcoat.)
F K*
R
Q
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Quartersawn red oak (5.3 bd. ft.) (2 needed)

Drive the brass roundhead screws with flat

washers [Drawing 2].
G
(G) as guides, drill pilot holes into the top.
H
3
T Remount the top (O). Then install the

U
shelves, where you wish, using ¼" shelf
supports. Now place some favorite decora-
*Plane or resaw to the thickness listed in the Materials List.
L* G
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Quartersawn red oak (5.3 bd. ft.)

3 Cut the shelves (P) to size. Then cut theI V

tive pieces and other items on the shelves, *
shelf end and front edging (Q, R) to the and step back to admire them and your N* M O
J W
sizes listed to fit the shelves. Using a dado amazing handiwork. ¿ ‡ x 7‹ x 96" Quartersawn red oak (5.3 bd. ft.)
blade, cut a 3/8" rabbet ½" deep in the frontK X J
edging [Drawing 2a]. Now glue and clamp Y O O
Written by Owen Duvall with Chuck Hedlund
the edging to the shelves, flush with the topL ‡ x 7‹ x 96" Quartersawn red oak (5.3 bd. ft.)
ZProject design: Jeff Mertz
faces. Sand the assemblies smooth. M Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson

4 SIDE/BACK P
SECTION VIEW O fi"

P P
‡" G
¤" chamfers
M,N H P

‡ x 48 x 96" Red oak plywood

Materials List
D, E FINISHED SIZE
Part T W L Matl. Qty.
A front/back legs ¾" 2¼" 78¼" QO 4
I , J B side legs ¾" 2½" 78¼" QO
¸" shank hole, FILENAME:176DisShelfCD_#100504599.eps 4
countersunk Date: 12-06 C
top/bottom
¾" 4¾" 38½" QO 2
Lorna J. front rails
top/bottom
D ¾" 4¾" 38½" QO 2
back rails
E top side rails ¾" 4¾" 12" QO 2

⁄ " pilot hole

7 64 F bottom side rails ¾" 4¾" 12" QO 2
‡" deep G top cleats ¾" 3" 12" QO 3

K,L H bottom shelf ¾" 13½" 38½" OP 1

Note: Front/back I side trim ¾" 1" 10½" QO 4
legs B and side
legs A not shown J front/back trim ¾" 1" 34½" QO 3
for clarity K side slats ½" 4¾" 64¾" QO 2
L back slats ½" 3" 64¾" QO 2
front/back
fi" M* ½" ¾" 34½" QO 4
cove trim
#8 x 1fi" F.H. ¤" N* side cove trim ½" ¾" 10½" QO 4
wood screw
O* top ¾" 17½" 44" EQO 1
I , J P shelves ¾" 12½" 36⁷⁄₈" OP 4

¤" Q shelf end edging ¾" ¾" 12½" QO 8

‹"
chamfers R shelf front edging ¾" 1¼" 38³⁄₈" QO 4
H *Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.

M,N Materials key: QO–quartersawn red oak, OP–red

›" cove oak plywood, EQO–edge-joined quartersawn red oak.
›" Supplies: #20 biscuits, #8×1½" flathead wood screws
1" (20), #8×1¼" brass roundhead screws (9), #8 brass flat
D, F washers (9), ¼" shelf supports (16).
Blades and bits: Dado-blade set, ¼" brad-point bit,
³⁄₈" cove and 45° chamfer router bits.
32 WOOD magazine May 2007
4 Easy Oak
Finishes A ttractive finishes don’t always have to be difficult. Some-
times, you can get the look you want in a couple of simple
steps. To demonstrate these four easy finishes, we tried them
on four small, red-oak tables (see Sources on page 36 for plans).
Except where noted, we followed these basic finishing rules:
Forget finicky finishes. Try these ✔ We sanded all parts to 120 grit prior to finishing, then vacuumed
and wiped them free of dust.
four techniques to bring out red ✔ Dyes and water-based stains dried for four hours, and oil-based
stains dried overnight before we applied any topcoats.
oak’s different personalities. ✔ We waited two hours between coats of water-based finishes, and
overnight for oil-based finishes before recoating.
✔ Between each topcoat, we scuff-sanded with 320 grit.
Now, let’s start with the easiest finish:

1 Pure simplicity
Have we got a no-flaw finish for you: boiled linseed oil followed by
wipe-on polyurethane. This combo gives wood pores subtle empha-
sis, and the surface a natural look that protects the wood against
moisture and abrasion. What’s more, you’ll have no problem finding
1 Pure simplicity

or applying both of these inexpensive finishes.

2 Golden glow

Ingredients and application. First, flood the surface with gener-

ous amounts of boiled linseed oil. Reapply oil anywhere it’s absorbed
by the wood, then wipe the surfaces dry. As oil dries, it may bleed
from the wood pores and harden on the surface. Wipe away these
deposits every hour until you no longer notice them. Allow the proj-
ect to sit four to seven days while the oil dries.
■ Topcoat: Mix two parts polyurethane with one part low-odor
mineral spirits, and stir. With experience, you can increase the
percentage to three parts polyurethane to one part mineral spirits
for thicker coats with each application.
■ Topcoat application method: Use a clean cloth to wipe on this
finish. Remove any excess before it runs or puddles.
■ Number of topcoats: Apply at least three coats.
4 Low-odor water-based

Speaking from experience. Compared with brushing on straight

or lightly thinned poly, this technique avoids a host of problems with
dust nibs and brush strokes.
■ Take your time. If you rush the first coat of poly before the boiled
3 Deep and dark

linseed oil dries, the added mineral spirits will reactivate the oil
and cloud the finish.
■ Project parts, such as the vertical panels in the table, can be fin-
ished before assembly for consistent color.
■ This film finish builds slowly, partly because you’ll scuff-sand
(and wipe clean) the already-thin coats between applications.
Then, consider adding two additional coats where needed to pro-
tect the project: the top, the outside of the legs, and any surfaces
likely to be marred or scratched.
■ Cover up minor scratches by lightly scuff-sanding the damaged
area and wiping a coat of poly over it.
■ As always with boiled linseed oil, lay oil-soaked rags flat on an
non-flammable surface to dry before discarding them.

34 WOOD magazine May 2007

2 A one-step finish with a golden glow
Here’s a novel look for accent furnishings, ■ Number of topcoats: One coat of
small projects, or part of a larger project. Pearlessence for color and shimmer. An
Pearlessence (see Sources), a translucent optional two coats of semi-gloss water-
finish shown below, adds a subtle gold sheen based finish add wear protection.
that also reduces the contrast between oak’s
pores and the surrounding wood. Speaking from experience. Although it
dries as quickly as other water-based film
finishes, Pearlessence left few brush marks.
■ Stain colors beneath this finish make a
big impact on the final color and amount
of surface shimmer. Golden oak stain
plays up the metallic sheen, as shown
below, while red oak stain mutes it.
■ Stir the coating well before and during
application for a consistent sheen.

Ingredients and application.

■ Surface preparation: Sand bare wood
to 180 grit for a smooth surface. Wipe the
surface with mineral spirits to check for
flaws that will be exposed by stains or
reflected on a Pearlessence surface.
■ Stain/dye: Although none was applied
here, any shade can be used.
■ Topcoat: Pearlessence. Golden oak stain Red oak stain
■ Topcoat application method: Brush or Pearlessence applied over golden oak stain
spray on both the Pearlessence and any yields a slightly greenish tint; red oak stain
optional clear topcoats. turns a coral shade.

3 Deep and dark, but not difficult

Going just one step beyond a basic stain and based poly to seal the wood, followed by
topcoat produces an elegant ebony finish. two topcoats.
The secret? Start with an application of
water-soluble ebony dye followed by a dark Speaking from experience. Vary the
oil-based stain. Unlike black paint, this fin- dye concentration and choice of stain to
ish still reveals red oak’s grain lines as a customize the color from all black to a
matte color that contrasts against the smooth medium chocolate color. The dye and stain
surrounding wood. should be roughly the same degree of dark-
ness for best results.
Ingredients and application. Because ■ The color may seem bland after applying
missed spots stand out against a dark finish, stain over dye. But the film finish will
dye, stain, and finish parts before assembly. bring it to life and give it depth.
■ Surface preparation: Sand to 150 grit,
then raise the grain with a damp towel,
and lightly scuff-sand to remove raised
nibs. Tape off joint areas before finishing
each part for a solid glue bond.
■ Dye: Mix ebony dye (see Sources, next
page) at 2 tablespoons of black dye to 6
oz. of water. Generously apply dye using
a cloth or sponge brush. Allow the dye to
dry, then remove surface dye residue with
a clean, dry cloth.
■ Stain: With a cloth, apply a dark walnut
stain in a circular motion to fill the pores. Ebony dye lays the groundwork for a dark
Wipe away excess stain with the grain. finish, but it doesn’t fill oak’s deep pores. For
■ Topcoat: Brush on semi-gloss water- that, you need a stain with pigment particles.

woodmagazine.com 35
4 A low-odor choice for indoor finishing
An indoor workshop gives you a welcome to be either wait for warm weather to use marks. Stain long project pieces, like the
retreat from winter—that is until it’s time solvent-based finishes outside or spread fin- legs on the display shelf, using generous
to apply a finish. Your only choices seem ish fumes throughout your house. You have amounts of stain in long strokes.
a third choice, though: water-based stains ■ To slightly darken light spots, remoisten
and film finishes. the towel used to apply the stain, and
gently wipe the light section until it
Ingredients and application. We used matches the surrounding area.
the same materials and technique to finish ■ To remove dried excess stain, make a
the display shelf on page 28 and the table couple of passes with a moistened coarse
shown at left. cloth, such as burlap, as shown below,
■ Stain: General Finishes Early American until the color evens out.
water-based stain in semi-gel form. ■ Take care when staining projects that mix
■ Stain application method: Wipe stain veneer plywood and solid oak. The ply-
on with a soft paper towel; then remove it wood may require additional stain appli-
immediately with a clean towel, as shown cations because it absorbs less stain,
below. producing a lighter color.
■ Topcoat: ZAR Ultra Max water-based ■ Should the stain raise the grain slightly,
satin finish. make three light passes over the stained
■ Topcoat application method: Brush areas using 320-grit abrasive. Do not
on or spray on with a touch-up sprayer for sand through the stain.
less overspray than a full-size spray gun. ■ Water-based finish dries quickly, even
■ Number of topcoats: One coat to seal, inside a spray gun. Clean spray equip-
followed by two topcoats. ment between coats to prevent finish
from clogging the sprayer. ¿
Speaking from experience. Water-
based stain can be a challenge to apply.
Leave it on a few seconds too long, even
under ideal conditions, and it quickly dries.
Dry air only exacerbates the problem.
■ Sanding up to 220 grit reduces blotching.
But the smooth surface traps fewer stain
pigment particles for a lighter color.
■ Work quickly in small areas, but keep
overlaps to a minimum to avoid lap

A moistened, coarse cloth can be used to

remove dried deposits of water-based stain.
Then, re-stain for an even color.

Sources
Stains: Early American water-based stain, call General
Finishes at 800/783-6050, or visit generalfinishes.com.
Dark walnut (No. 269) oil-based stain, call Varathane at
800/635-3286, or visit varathane.com.
TransTint black dye: No. 128490 from Woodcraft, $17
for 2 oz. Call 800/225-1153 or visit woodcraft.com.
ZAR Ultra Max water-based satin finish: United Gil-
sonite Laboratories, call 800/272-3235 or visit ugl.com.
Olympic Pearlessence: PPG Architectural Finishes,
call 866/321-9090 or visit olympic.com. (Available at
Lowe’s stores nationwide.)
Table plans: The tables used to demonstrate our
finishes are modified versions of the smallest of a set
Apply stain with a circular motion to work pigments into the pores. Then wipe with the grain of three mission nesting tables, plan No. DP-00015. To
and remove any surplus. order, go to woodmagazine.com/nesttables.

36 WOOD magazine May 2007

Make Smoothing Wood Just

Plane Simple
Sand less by tackling tricky wood
grains with a scraping plane.

B
efore sandpaper, craftsmen turned to from a 2"-thick scrap about 6" long and fi"
a scraper when they needed a silky- wider than the plane blade. Bevel-cut one
smooth surface. Today, scrapers still end at 15° or the angle specified for your Watch a FREE 4-minute video on
work wonders for taming wild wood grain, plane, as shown on page 39, top right. sharpening scraping planes at:
and provide you with a welcome break from Clamp the guide block and blade in a woodmagazine.com/videos
the noise and dust of sanding.
Unlike handheld card scrapers, a scraping
plane requires less effort, especially on large Rear handle
surfaces, and holds the blade at a consistent (or “tote”)
angle. (It also costs 10–20 times more than Lever cap knob Blade
a $10 card scraper.)
Frog adjustment
Front knob wheels
First, burnish the blade
As with any bench plane, clean cuts depend
on a sharp blade, so sharpen a scraping plane
blade as you would a conventional plane
blade. (See WOOD magazine issue 160 Toe
[December/January 2004/2005], page 54,
for a sharpening system using waterstones.
Or you can download the article for $3.00 at
woodmagazine.com/sharpen.) As you Heel
would with a conventional blade, slightly
round over the ends of the bevel to keep the Plane body Sole (underneath)
Blade bow thumbscrew
blade from leaving marks with each pass.
Next, form a burr on this sharpened edge. Adjustment screws fine-tune the angle of the blade. Tighten the blade bow thumbscrew to
To do this, make a burnisher guide block create a slight concave in thin blades to help eliminate edge marks.

38 WOOD magazine May 2007

vise—the blade can be on either side of the by about ¤". After you secure the frog,
block—with the bevels facing the same way retighten the lever cap knob to reset the
and the blade about 1 ⁄64" proud of the block. blade depth. Repeat this process until you
With the block as your angle guide, use a feel the blade bite into the wood and shave
burnisher (see Sources) or the hardened thin curls of wood from your scrap. (See
shaft of a screwdriver or chisel to roll the “Shavings tell how you’re scraping by.”)
burr. Press firmly as you push or pull the
burnisher from the center to one edge while Using a scraping plane
simultaneously sliding it diagonally, as Scraping planes work slowly by taking thin
shown at right, top. Then slide the burnisher curls, so start with a surface flattened with a
from the center to the opposite edge. Repeat power planer or hand plane. As when using Guide
block
until you feel an even burr form as the sharp a smoothing plane, grip the scraping plane
edge rolls over. firmly by the front knob and rear handle, as
shown at lower right. BURNISH THE BURR DIAGONALLY
Install and adjust the blade Working in the direction of the grain,
A properly burred and installed scraping hold the plane with the blade off the work
blade should remove a paper-thin shaving. surface and the toe firmly pressed against it.
To install the blade, first place two pieces of Push firmly against the rear handle hard
typing paper about 2" apart on a flat wooden enough to begin cutting and build momen-
surface such as your workbench. Then rest tum to complete the stroke. For hard or dif-
the sole of the plane on the papers with the ficult woods, such as quilted maple, start the
opening in the sole (called the “throat”) cut while holding the plane at roughtly a 25°
between them, as shown at right, center. angle to the grain for a shearing motion.
Adjust the frog angle until it’s about 80° to Equalize your hand pressure on the toe
the sole. Open the lever cap knob far enough and heel by midcut. At the opposite end of
to insert the blade with the burr facing for- the workpiece, shift pressure to the heel as
ward (avoid dinging the burr against the the blade nears the edge. That reduces the
plane body) and resting on the benchtop. chance of rounding over the work surface.
Then tighten the lever cap knob. Plan the next stroke to slightly overlap the SET FOR PAPER-THIN SHAVINGS
For a shallower cut, use just one piece of previous one. Test your work periodically
paper beneath half the plane sole. For the by wiping the surface with mineral spirits to
shallowest cut, place the sole directly on the reveal any plane marks. If you notice any,
benchtop and press down on the blade while reduce the depth of cut, round over the blade
tightening the lever cap knob. edges, or use the blade bow thumbscrew to
Now test your scraping plane on a piece eliminate the problem. ¿
of scrap clamped firmly in place, but don’t
be surprised if nothing happens. To peel off
an even curl of wood, the frog must be
Sources
Scraping planes. No. 85 Cabinet Makers Scraper, $195.
adjusted to an angle where the burr snags Lie-Nielsen Toolworks, 800/327-2520 or lie-nielsen.com. Kunz
the wood as you begin to work the plane. No. 112 Scraping Plane (no. 16X61), $90. Woodcraft, 800/225-
The blade changes depth as you change 1153 or woodcraft.com. Veritas Scraping Plane (05P29.01), $149.
Lee Valley Tools, 800/871-8158 or leevalley.com
the frog angle, so first loosen the lever cap Triangular burnisher. Two Cherries triangular burnisher
knob just enough to free the blade. Then (520-5085), $18. Di Legno Workshop Supply, 877/208-4298 or
back away the two frog adjustment wheels dlws.com PUSH AND PRESS FOR CONTROL

Shavings tell how you’re scraping by

TOO DEEP TOO SHALLOW PERFECT

Examine the wood and your plane shavings to diagnose problems. If the blade cuts too
deeply, as shown above left, loosen the lever cap knob and reduce the blade depth. If a The burr gives
freshly sharpened blade still leaves just tiny curls and sawdust, as shown above center, the blade an
adjust the pitch of the frog until the burr bites into the wood surface. If a worn blade goes angled lip that
from making curls to making sawdust, resharpen the blade and restore the burr. Aim for long, scrapes a thin
wide, and thin shavings, like the one shown above right. curl from the
surface.

woodmagazine.com 39
 Pagoda Box in contrasting woods
Watch a FREE 5-minute video
on Forming the Pagoda Box Lid at:
woodmagazine.com/videos

W
AT A GLANCE ith a design rooted in Asian smooth, and then finish-sand the inside face
 Box dimensions are 5¼" wide × architectural style and form, of the blank and the rabbet.
6½" long × 5³⁄8" high.
 The small size and simple form
make this the perfect project for
Bellingham, Washington, wood-
worker David Selditz pays homage to beauty
through simplicity. To find out more about
2 To make the wood grain wrap continu-
ously around the container, cut the sides
(A) and ends (B) ¤" longer than listed
hoarded cutoffs of highly figured David and his work, see page 44. [Materials List on page 44], and cut them
and exotic woods. from the blank in the sequence A-B-A-B.
 Two simple jigs ease the task of Build the container Mark the order on each part. Then miter the

1
forming the graceful lid curves. For the sides (A) and ends (B), plane parts to finished length. Now lay out the
 For the items needed to build this
stock to ›" thick, and cut a 4×20" blank. arches [Drawing 2], and bandsaw and sand
project, see page 44.
 The box above is bird’s-eye maple Then set up your tablesaw [Drawing 1], and them to shape.
with a cherry lid and walnut handle.
For more options, see page 44.
bevel the top half of the blank [Photo A].
Now cut a rabbet and a groove on the inside
face [Drawing 2, Side View]. Sand the bevel
3 Cut the bottom and lid base (C) to size.
Then set the lid base aside, and dry-
assemble the container to check the fit of the

40 WOOD magazine May 2007

 A N A N
B O O
B
C P P
C 1 BEVELING THE BLANK 3° 3°
2 SIDE AND END (2 of each needed)
D QD ‹" rabbet
‹" rabbet
Q ¤" deep 3° bevel3° bevel 3° bevel3° bevel
3° ¤" deep
on inside
on inside
E R R face face
E
A, B
S S
F F Inside Inside B
face face A A B
G T G T
Zero- ‹" groove 4" 4"
H U clearance ‹" groove 4" 4"
H U ¤" deep¤" deep
insert
V V 2"
I I 2" 2" ‹" ‹"
J W
J W fi"
X fi" ›" ›" ›"
X ›"
K K fl" fl"
Y fl" 4" fl"3fi"
Y 4" 3fi"
L ›" ›"
L
Z Z SIDE VIEW
M SIDE VIEW
M
BEVEL THE SIDE AND END BLANK

3 EXPLODED VIEW Scrap

6fi" block
2 SIDE AND END
2 SIDE AND END
(2 of each needed)
(2 of each needed)
F 3" auxiliary
1 BEVELING THE BLANK fence
¤" brass rod
¨" long
¤" hole
E
1‡"
fi" Blank
for parts A
and B
5‡"
5‹" FILENAME:176PagBox2_#100504483.eps
FILENAME:176PagBox2_#100504483.eps Filename: 176Selditz
Filename: box
176Selditz
Date: 10-06 Blade tilted 3˚
Date: 10-06
Lorna J.Lorna J. R LeMoine
R LeMoine
A
D 10-16fence to the rip
Attach a 3"-high auxiliary10-16
9° bevel 9° bevel fence. Clamp a scrap block to the blank so it
2.eps Filename:
„" 176Selditz box 4 rides on the auxiliary fence. Cut the bevel.
3Á"
‹" R LeMoine
10-16 C ASSEMBLE THE CONTAINER
2Í"
‹" rabbets ¤" deep

‹"
Corner block
Temporary lid
3° bevel
B

3° bevel A A
4"
B
C
4" Corner blocks
held in place by
2Í" a rubber band
B
A ‹" grooves ¤" deep Cauls
fi" from bottom edge B
3fi" Capturing the sides (A) and ends (B) in the
caul notches and with corner blocks, glue
Mitered ends
4" and clamp the container.

cauls, and make corner blocks with the

parts [Drawing 3]. To keep the top of the [Drawing 4]. For easy removal after glue-up, remaining piece [Drawing 4]. Now glue and
container square during glue-up, cut a tem- drive a wood screw into the center. clamp the container [Photo B]. Do not glue
porary lid from ‹" hardboard to fit snugly
into the top rabbet. Chamfer the corners to 4
To make clamping the container during
glue-up easier, cut three ‡×‡×7" pieces
prevent excess glue from bonding it in place of scrap. Then notch two of the pieces for
the bottom (C) into the side (A) and end (B)
grooves. With the glue dry, finish-sand the
outside of the container.
3 EXPLODED VIEW
woodmagazine.com 41
 4 GLUE-UP AIDS DISC-SAND THE LID BOTTOM PROFILE

#8 x 1" F.H.
wood screw

⁄ " hole
7 64 *3fi"

›" Work the quill up

›"
*3" and down
D End midpoint

*Snug fit in the container rabbet Bottom of D

Rotate D
side-to-side
›"
Side midpoint

‡ x ‡ x 7" Lid bottom

profile jig
Sanded corner

*4" C D
Working the drill-press quill up and down and rotating the lid (D) side-to-side from the
midpoint of the side to the midpoint of the end, form the first corner [Photo C]. Make sure the
*Exact length of A
sanded area stops at the two midpoints [Photo D].
‡ x ‡ x 7"

Form the lid adhere a pattern to it. Then use this scrap

1
Step 1 Cut a centered Plane stock to ›" thick, and cut the lid lid to test the following lid-forming setups
¤" groove ›" deep.
(D) to size. Then photocopy the Lid Pat- and practice making and sanding the cuts.

Step 2 Form a 45°

V-groove.
tern on the WOOD Patterns® insert, and
adhere it to the lid with spray adhesive. Now 2
To form the lid (D) bottom profile, first
cut four ‡×4×6" pieces of plywood, and
chuck a 9⁄64" brad-point bit into your drill make the Lid Bottom Profile Jig [Step 1 of
1fi" press, use the fence to position the lid, and Drawing 5]. Then adhere an 80-grit self-
Step 3 Cut to length.
Glue-relief drill the holes indicated on the pattern. adhesive
STEP sandpaper
2 POSITION THE disc
JIG to a 5" sanding disc,
groove Note: Cut an extra lid from scrap and and chuck it into your drill press. Next posi-
STEP 1 BUILD THE JIG

5 FORMING THE LID BOTTOM PROFILE

Step 1 BUILD THE JIG Step 2 POSITION THE JIG

1 Chuck a sanding disc

¸" shank hole,
countersunk #8 x 1fi" F.H. 5" sanding disc into your drill press.
wood screw
80-grit adhesive-backed
6" sandpaper disc
GLUE-UP AIDS 4" Chuck centerline
3"
2 Align the jig with the
4fl" chuck centerline.
‡" 1‹"
⁄ " hole
7 64 1fi"
4485.eps
A N
Filename: 176Selditz
7⁄64" pilot hole box 7 Square
R LeMoine ‡" deep
13° B O 7⁄64" hole
10-16C P ‡"
6" D Q

E R
S 3 Clamp the jig to
F
the drill-press table.
G T
‡"
H U
V
6" I
4"
J W
42 WOOD magazine May 2007
X
K
Y
L
 BANDSAW AND DRUM-SAND THE LID TOP PROFILE STACK-DRILL HANDLE PARTS

Lid top ¹⁄₈" brad-

profile jig point bit

Masking tape
depth stop

Double-faced F
tape
Stop Dashed Solid
line Dashed ¾"-thick scrap block
line line for support
E F G
Position the lid (D) snug against the jig stop and the bandsaw table and screw it in place. Then With double-faced tape, adhere the handle
bandsaw the scallop to the dashed pattern line [Photo E]. Now with the lid still attached to base (E) to the handle (F), centered side-to-
the jig, drum-sand the scallop to the solid pattern line [Photo F]. side and end to end. Drill fi"-deep holes.

tion the jig on your drill press, and clamp it and D], and then the second corner. Remove and rough-cut the first scallop to the dashed
to the table [Step 2]. Now fasten the lid to the the lid, rotate it so the other end faces the pattern line [Photo E]. Switch to a spindle
jig with a wood screw [Step 3]. chuck, screw it to the jig, and sand the other sander, and sand to the solid line [Photo F].

3 Lower the drill-press quill until the

sandpaper just kisses the upper edge of
two corners. Finish-sand the bottom profile.

4 To form the lid (D) top profile, first cut

Repeat for the other three scallops. Finish-
sand the top profile.
the lid, and set the depth stop to this posi-
tion. Then raise the quill and rotate the lid,
pointing one corner to the center of the
two ‡×2‡×4fi" pieces and one ‡×5×5"
piece of plywood and one ›×1×5" piece of
solid stock, and assemble the Lid Top Profile
5 Retrieve the lid base (C) and finish-sand
the bottom, ends, and edges. Glue and
clamp the lid base, centered, to the bottom
STEP 3 MOUNT THE LID
chuck. Now form the first corner [Photos C Jig [Drawing 6]. Then screw the lid to the jig, of the lid (D).

6 LID TOP PROFILE JIG

Step 3 MOUNT THE LID
#8 x 1‹" F.H. wood screw

#6 x 1" F.H. 5"

wood screw ›"
A N 9°
ked
B O Hole nearest 2‡" ‡"
Bottom face of D
P the chuck
C 5"
1fi"
D Q Edges parallel

E R
4fi" 1¤"
re S ⁄ " hole
7 64
F 1"
G T 7⁄64" pilot hole ‡" deep ›"

H U
V #8 x 1fi" F.H.
I #8 x 1‹" F.H. wood screw wood screw
J W ¸" shank holes, countersunk
o
table. X
K
Y
L
Z
M

woodmagazine.com 43

6 LID TOP PROFILE JIG

PAGODA BOX GALLERY
You can mix or match wood species for the box,
lid, and handle in almost endless combinations.
Here are a few examples. Make the handle Finish and add the handle

Leopard wood body with a bubinga

1 For the handle base (E) and handle (F),
rip a ‹"-wide strip from the edge of a
‡"-thick, 12"-long piece of stock. Then cut
1 Examine all the parts, and finish-sand
where needed. Then apply a clear finish.
(The figured woods we used needed no
lid and wenge handle
the parts to size. Mark hole centers on the stain. We simply applied several coats of
bottom of the handle base [Handle Base Pat- aerosol lacquer, sanding with 320-grit sand-
tern]. Now chuck a ¤" brad-point bit into paper between coats.)
your drill press, and stack-drill holes for
brass rods in both parts [Drawing 3 and
Photo G]. Mark the orientation of the two
2 With the finish dry, cut two pieces of ¤"
brass rod to length, and polish them with
0000 steel wool. Then place a small drop of
parts for reassembly, and separate them. epoxy into the handle base (E) and handle

2 Photocopy the Handle Base Pattern and

Handle Pattern on the insert, and adhere
them to the parts with spray adhesive.
(F) holes, insert the brass rods into the base
holes, and press the handle onto the protrud-
ing rods. (There should be a „–¤" gap
Bandsaw and sand the parts to shape, and between the handle base and handle.) Make
then finish-sand them. Glue and clamp the sure the handle is level relative to the lid.
handle base (E) to the lid (D), centered Now stow your small treasures in the box,
[Drawing 3]. and place it where all can admire. ¿
Hickory with bark inclusions body and a Written by Jan Svec with Chuck Hedlund
walnut handle (To learn how to harvest unique Project design: David Selditz
wood like this, see page 46.) Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine

Materials List
FINISHED SIZE
Part T W L Matl. Qty.
A* sides ›" 4" 4" BM 2
B* ends ›" 4" 3fi" BM 2

C bottom ‹" 2Í" 3Á" C 2

and lid base
D lid ›" 5‹" 5‡" C 1
E* handle base ‹" fi" 1‡" W 1
F* handle ‹" ‡" 6fi" W 1
*Parts initially cut oversize. See the instructions.

Materials key: BM–bird’s-eye maple, C–cherry,

W–walnut.
Bird’s-eye maple body with a Supplies: Spray adhesive; double-faced tape; ¤" brass
bubinga lid and wenge handle rod; epoxy; #8×1", #8×1‹", #8×1fi", #6×1" flathead wood
screws.
Blades and bits: Stack dado set, ¤" and 9⁄64" brad-
point drill bits.

ABOUT DAVID SELDITZ

Introduced to woodworking while
stationed at Ft. Bragg, North Carolina,
David continued the craft after leaving
the military. In 1994 he assembled a
small, one-man shop where he creates
gifts and functional furniture accessories.
Though primarily self-taught, he has
studied the methods of some of the
finest woodworkers in the Northwest.
Making the bottom from the same species as the David’s style is recognizable by his artful
lid adds a spark of visual interest. blend of exotic and native hardwoods. In
1999, he won the People’s Choice Award
in Northwest Fine Woodworking’s Box
Competition. To view more of David’s
work, go to davidselditz.com.

44 WOOD magazine May 2007

 Find Your Own Wood,
Save a Bundle
Your backyard may be your best source for FREE stock.

Using his simple

resaw jig, Brian
Hahn slices into
a small walnut
crotch, exposing
the highly figured
wood within.

46 WOOD magazine May 2007

 1

2 4

Bitternut hickory found wood adds drama to

this pagoda box design .

A
5 8
ccording to the U.S. Department of
Agriculture, some 3–4 billion board
7
feet of lumber end up in landfills each
year. While money may not grow on trees,
knowing how to salvage a fraction of that 6
“green waste” is as good as putting some
green into your pocket. To show you how you
can start “shopping” for logs right in your
own backyard or local forests, we asked long-
time woodworker and small-shop sawyer
SAWYER STARTER SET
If you own a 14" bandsaw, you’re set to start sawing. Invest in some of the tools shown here to
Brian Hahn, from Avoca, Wisconsin, to share make the job easier and safer.
his favorite jigs and techniques for converting
firewood into valuable stock. Here, you’ll 1 Electric chainsaw Perfect for making 5 Ear muffs Sawing is loud and dusty
learn how to select, saw, and store boards, quick cuts, without gas or fumes. work. Protect yourself.
turning blanks, and small logs. We even came 2 Metal detector Nails happen. A detec- 6 Sledgehammer and wedges The trad-
tor defends your blade from all sorts of tional approach to splitting large logs.
up with a great small project for you to build metal debris. 7 Handheld power planer Simple flat-
(see page 40 for the box above) as you experi- 3 Plastic wedges Use to hold open chain- tening solution, especially for logs that
ment with your newfound wood. sawn kerfs. Won’t damage blade if might be too wide for your jointer.
Granted, you may want to stick with your nicked. 8 Pallet An ideal saw bench. The slats hold
favorite mill when you need long boards for a
4 Moisture meter Digital display tells you round logs and keep the chainsaw’s blade
when home-sawn stock is dry enough to safely above the floor. Watch out for nails in
big project. But once you experience the thrill start working. the pallet, though!
of finding a new species, or sawing open a
spectacularly figured log, odds are good that
you will never look at your firewood pile the ■ Surprise and satisfaction. Cutting into ■ Wait. Freshly sawn stock needs time to
same way again. a newfound log is like opening a treasure dry; otherwise it will warp and crack. Without
chest, with no two logs alike. Using wood a kiln, it takes approximately 60–90 days to
HARVESTING OPTIONS from a special tree on your property to make air-dry stock to 20 percent moisture content
Before firing up your chainsaw, take a minute a gift or keepsake is a wonderful way to hold (MC). At that point, you’ll need to move your
to compare the advantages of sawing your on to and share a bit of family history. wood indoors so it can continue losing mois-
own versus buying stock from your local mill ture. To achieve 8–10 percent MC—the level
or home center. Transforming logs into lum- Reasons why you might where indoor projects won’t split or crack—the
ber can be slow work, but the results can be stick with your sawyer: “year per inch of thickness” rule is a safe bet.
more than worth a little extra effort. ■ Waste. At a commercial mill, about a third On the other hand, blanks are suitable for
of a “good” log is waste. As you experiment turning right away. To cut drying time in
Reasons to saw your own: with burl, crotch, and root stock (See “Where half, some turners partially turn green blanks
■ Savings. Odds are you already have most to Find Good Wood,” next page, you may (for a 10" bowl, leave the sides about 1" thick),
of the tools you need to harvest free wood. uncover some fabulous figure, but your per- and then store the unfinished projects in
(See “Sawyer Starter Set,” above right.) Realize centage of waste is likely to be even higher. paper bags. As the rough-turned bowls dry
that a logger’s credentials are not required to (However, if you use a fireplace or woodstove, they may warp, but are less likely to crack.
find plenty of sawable stock. New construc- bark, chips, and unusable stock easily can be When a rough-turned bowl reaches 12 per-
tion, old age, disease, and storms claim thou- converted into free heat.) If you’re more inter- cent MC, it’s dry enough for final turning.
sand of trees each year; sawing makes the best ested in woodworking than wood-finding, ■ Warehousing. Extra wood needs extra
use of this (often free) available material... you might be better off sticking with prepared space. Ideally, green wood should be left in an
yielding spectacular stock that’s impossible to boards and blanks. unheated, but protected space (a tarp can
buy at any price. ■ Weight. If you’ve stacked firewood, you work in a pinch, but a shed is best) so that it
■ Selection. Because of their small trunk already know that a freshly sawn 2' long by can slowly release stored moisture. (Outside
size or limited quantities, many outstanding 10" diameter log can weigh in at 40–80 storage also keeps bugs, excess humidity, and
local woods are considered “noncommerical” pounds. To save your back, set a length limit, dirt away from the rest of your shop.) If you
by big mills. (To view a small sample of what and use your chainsaw to split large logs into have a small workshop, you may not be able
you might find depending on your area, more manageable chunks. This also makes for to afford space for stickered piles, shelves of
check out the samples on page 50.) a safer operation. drying blanks, or sealed-but-yet-unsawn logs.

woodmagazine.com 47
 Where to Find
Good Wood FROM PROMISING LOGS TO IMPRESSIVE BOARDS
Over the years, Brian has developed a simple When working with smaller logs or crotch
Knowing where to explore for choice four-step sequence for sawing stock. By com- stock, you’ll want to use the bandsaw resaw-
wood is as important as knowing the type bining your bandsaw and a fresh 2–3 tpi, ¾" ing jig (modified from on Brian’s design) to
of tree it’s from. Use this sketch as a guide blade (see Sources on page 52) with his tech- make your first cut. (See the building instruc-
to estimate the potential value of new-
niques and ripping jig, you’ll be able to start tions for this jig on page 90. Also see the
found wood. Of course, there always are
exceptions to the rules. When in doubt, turning logs into usable stock right away. online video showing how to use this jig at
make a test and see for yourself. Use a woodmagazine.com/videos.) Use a combination
power planer to smooth the rough-sawn Step 1: Start with fresh logs. of screws and small wedges to fasten the log
surface and examine the grain. Like most sawyers, Brian prefers starting with to the jig’s fence. Once the log is fastened,
fresh-cut logs rather than old firewood or reattach the fence assembly to the base, and
Branch wood dead standing trees. “Unless they’re protected, then pivot and slide the fence as necessary so
logs degrade rapidly, sometimes within a that the blade slices through, or just to one
week,” he says. Brian seals the ends immedi- side of the pith, as shown on page 46.
ately after using his chainsaw to protect the
boards and blanks within the log. The sealer WARNING: Never cut round stock freehand!
Crotch not only prevents checks and cracks that If a log isn’t supported properly, it will shift or
occur when a log loses moisture too quickly it roll in mid-cut. This can cause blade damage,
also keeps out bugs and other wood-eating injury to yourself, or both.
organisms that can stain or otherwise dam-
age the wood. At this point, logs can be safely Step 3: Resaw on your bandsaw.
Trunk stored, although they dry much more slowly After establishing a flat face, Brian disassem-
than sawn stock. bles the base from his resawing jig. As shown
Sometimes, a sealed log will start to crack. [ Photo B ], he uses the base as a sliding table.
Burl Before brushing on a second coat of sealer, To do this, he drives screws through the
Brian saws about 6" off the offending end and underside of the base into his log so that one
continues cutting until he reaches solid wood edge hangs over the blade side of the base.
before sealing. “Considering all the work Then he fits the runner into the bandsaw’s
that’s involved, there’s no point in trying to miter slot and makes the cut.
Buttress/Root save split wood,” he says. After Brian established two adjoining
square faces, start standard resawing. To do
Leave tree felling to the pros! this, Brian clamps the jig’s fence to his band-
Without proper training or experience, the saw, as shown [ Photo C]. The tall fence pro-
chance that you might get hurt or damage vides extra support for wide boards.
nearby property isn’t worth the risk. Simi- When resawing, always allow extra wood
larly, if you’re intent on sawing long logs, call (up to ¼") for warping. To minimize warping
Branch wood. Use with caution or avoid for help. Woodmizer (800/553-0182) or Tim- or cracking, the Forest Products Laboratory
altogether. In addition to some figure, berking (800/942-4406) can provide you recommends slicing green stock into rough-
branches contain reaction wood that leads with names of sawyers in your area who cut boards no thinner than ¾" and no thicker
to excessive movement and splitting. operate stationary and portable sawmills. than 2". Wood within that range is thick
When cut, the released stress can cause enough to resist warping, but thin enough to
the wood to close and grab a blade in Step 2: Split to save stock and make lose moisture without cracking.
mid-cut, stop your bandsaw in its tracks, massive logs manageable.
or break the blade. Whether you’re sawing boards or blanks, in Step 4: Stack, seal, and wait.
Crotch. Cut across the “V” to reveal the most cases you’ll want to remove the pith, or Green lumber begins to move immediately
highly figured grain pattern within. Paint
core, of the log. “Since cracks start from the after sawing. To prevent this, Brian carefully
the end and the feathery face grain with
latex paint or wood sealer, such as pith, cutting it out saves a lot of stock,” says stacks sawn boards in layers, uses ¾" × 1"
Anchorseal (see Sources on page 52), to Brian. As an important side benefit, splitting stickers at 12–18" intervals to provide support
control checking. reduces the weight of big logs and shrinks the and encourage circulation, and weighs down
Trunk. If you’re lucky, you might discover diameter. This will enable you to maneuver the stack with sandbags, as shown [ Photo D ].
some curly or bird’s-eye stock, but regular bigger logs on your bandsaw. At this point, all that’s left to do is watch and
clear, straight stock is perfect for all sorts of Brian uses a chainsaw to cut large-diameter wait. You can use a moisture meter to track
projects. Inspect stock carefully for nails, logs down to size before bringing them into your stock’s progress, or follow Brian’s simple
screws, or other debris that can damage this shop. To do this, he first positions the log
your saw blade.
Burls. Spectacular wild grain—just don’t
on a pallet and crosscuts it to length. Next, he SHOP TIP
lifts the log onto his saw bench, as shown
saw them off a living tree! Root burls tend Some bandsaw blades may drift, or
to grow bigger, but aerial burls are finer- [ Photo A, opposite]. For large logs, Brian makes
cut in a line that’s not perpendicular to
grained and better proportioned. Seal cut a chalk line on one side of the pith and saws
the front edge of your saw’s table. If
areas immediately to guard against the log along its length, as shown. (Alter- your saw doesn’t want to cut straight,
checking and cracking. nately, you can split larger logs using the the easiest way to compensate for this
Buttress/Root. Here, the dirt and rocks wedge-and-mallet approach.) After sawing, is to find the angle, and adjust your
will dull your saw teeth, but the highly Brian uses a handheld power planer to smooth fence accordingly.
figured wood is worth the risk. Don’t out the rough cut left by the chainsaw.
discount stumps; good wood can be found
below
48 ground level. WOOD magazine May 2007
 QUICK TAKES ON CREATING
AWESOME STOCK

A B
C D

A CHAINSAW RIPPING STATION

After screwing the log to the arm so that it
can’t shift in mid-cut, Brian saws through the
log about 1" away from the center so that
one half is already pith-free. Holding the saw
at a 30° angle, as shown, seems to produce
smaller, less clog-causing chips.

rule of thumb: “Cracking means it’s drying Brian built his jig with materials he had on B SLIDING TABLE SIMPLIFIES FIRST SLICE
out too quickly; mold growth means that it’s hand, but he suggests using plywood instead The sliding table helps guide and slide the
drying too slowly. After six months or so in of particleboard, “to add extra rigidity and to log past the blade, even if your first cut isn’t
the storage shed, I bring it into my shop to make the jig tough enough to survive a few perfect. Use screws and small wedges to
secure the stock to the sliding base.
equilibrate with the inside moisture levels.” accidental falls and jolts.”
Brian uses a small electric fan and a tarp to Brian designed his jig to work with a 14" C GOOD FENCES MAKE GOOD SLABS
adjust drying times. bandsaw equipped with a 6" riser block. If you Disassemble your jig and clamp the fence to
have a smaller saw, adjust the height of the the table, as shown. Note that you may need
Log-to-Lumber Resaw Jig jig’s fence to fit, but keep the width and length to angle it to allow for blade drift.
Brian’s bandsaw resawing jig is actually three of the base to ensure stability. D SEAL AND STORE YOUR NEW STOCK
jigs in one, and can be built from scrap sheet When you’re resawing long logs, make sure Sealing sawn porous ends (and the faces of
goods found around the shop. Depending on to set up roller stands, or another type of sup- turning blanks) limits splitting and cracking
his resawing needs, the jig can serve as a slid- port system, on the infeed and outfeed sides by promoting even drying. Aligning the
ing table, an adjustable sawing support for of your bandsaw. Otherwise, your jig and log stickers vertically transfers the weight of the
safely slicing round or uneven stock, or a may come crashing down as you finish mak- wood evenly through the pile and encourages
stock to dry straight.
rock-solid resaw fence. ing your cut.

woodmagazine.com 49
 Wood You Might Find in Your Own Backyard
When it comes to selection, most backyards and surrounding woodlands beat the average lumberyard hands down. Some of these
“noncommercial” woods can be challenging to work with, but the color and figure make them worth the effort. Here are a few
samples of what you might encounter:

Softer hardwoods and harder softwoods Medium-hard hardwoods Hard-to-work hardwoods (but worth it)

Aromatic cedar Juniperus virginiana Riverbirch Betula nigra Apple Malis pumila
Found: Eastern/Central U.S. Found: East/Pacific N.W. Found: Orchards all over the U.S.
Somewhat brittle, this stable, aromatic Once used for toys, this lightweight wood Wide boards tend to crack and warp, but
wood is good for box bottoms and is easy to work with power and hand this hard, heavy wood turns and carves
drawer liners. tools. well.

Butternut Juglans cinera Mountain Ash Sorbus aucuparia Bitternut Hickory Caya glabra
Found: All over Found: Eastern/Central U.S. Found: Eastern/Central U.S.
Softer, lighter, faster-drying cousin to The cream-colored wood from this The white wood is super hard. Toughen
walnut. Perfect for turnings, carvings, ornamental works for turning, carving, softer spalted spots with Minwax’s Wood
small projects. and small projects. Hardener.

Catalpa Catalpa speciosa Mulberry Morus rubra Bur Oak Querus macrocarpa
Found: All over Found: All over Found: All over
Wood from this “urban shade tree” works Close-grained wood gradually shifts from A dead ringer for white oak; you’ll want
like pine, but without the resin. yellow to purple-brown. Takes a high to sand or scrape the wild grain to avoid
polish. tear-out. This sample shows curly figure.

Red Pine Pinus resinosa Willow Salix nigra Dogwood Cornus florida
Found: Eastern U.S. Found: All over Found: All over
Used for trim, flooring, and windows, this The lightweight wood is a favorite of This hard wood gets smoother with use,
hard, striped softwood adds color to turners, carvers, and box makers. making it perfect for mallets and handles.
simple projects.

50 WOOD magazine May 2007

BUILD A BANK OF TURNING BLANKS
Transforming a log into turning stock requires
less work (and less wait) than turning it into
lumber. In fact, starting with a chunk of
wood, you can fire up your chainsaw, shift
over to your bandsaw, and then start turning
at your lathe, all in the same day. “Why wait
around for wood you don’t want? Rough-
turning, or at least bandsawing out blanks,
speeds up the drying process,” says Brian.
To ready wood for the lathe, Brian first uses
his chainsaw or bandsaw to make his first big
slices; then he sizes the blanks with a home-
made layout template, shown near right. The
clear acrylic makes it easy to find the best
potential blank and still see the color and
grain of the wood. Using holes in the tem-
plate, Brian establishes the radius and center-
point, and transfers the radius to the blank
with a compass.
Once drawn, it’s time to bring the blank SEE-THROUGH CIRCLE GUIDE BIG BLADE, SMALL BITES
back to the bandsaw. Brian points out that his Etched with ½”-inch increment circles, Brian’s To keep your saw set up for resawing, cut out
¾"-wide blade is great for resawing, but can- acrylic layout jig lets him “see” the bowl and small circles with a series of straight cuts. Knock
not make the tight turns necessary to saw out set his compass to mark the bowl on the blank. off the corners to sneak up to your line.
his blanks. Instead of switching to a narrower
blade, Brian makes several straight cuts, “nib-
bling” up to his line (photo far right). “This
method isn’t perfect, but it saves time by
keeping the saw set up for resawing,” he says.
“Besides, it’s easy enough to true-up a blank
Go with the Grain
at the lathe.”
Orientation in log Pattern of bowl and plate grain
Realize that the orientation of your blank
Top view Side view
within the log plays an equally big part in the
appearance of your finished project, right.
However, when it comes to burls, roots, and
multi-pithed crotches, Brian warns that all
bets are off. “Letting the blank tell you how
it’s supposed to be turned is part of what
makes turning so exciting,” he says.
Once sawn, the blank is ready to turn. If
you haven’t tried turning green wood, you’re
in for a pleasant surprise. Many turners prefer
local wood for fresh blanks, instead of buying
kiln-dried, for reasons other than price. Green
blanks are softer and easier to turn than dry
stock; this means that chisels and gouges go Pith
longer between sharpenings. Plus, “I really
like the way they make long, stringy curls,
not just chips and dust,” Brian says. For diffi-
cult-grained blanks, such as this walnut
crotch, extra moisture also seems to help sup-
port the wood fibers, which limits tear-out.
Split
Despite these benefits, Brian points out
that it’s possible to have too much of a good
thing. “By weight, some fresh-from-the-tree When it comes to looks, how you cut the blank log is as important as how you
blanks contain more water than wood. This turn it at the lathe. Changing the orientation of a bowl blank within a log will give
can make turning green a very wet event,” he you very different grain patterns.
says. To minimize potential spray-back, Brian Although some turners have found ways of using the pith in their design,
prefers cutting the blanks, and then waiting removing that 1" square from the center of the log not only will save stock but also
until they air-dry down to about 20 percent make things safer. Big cracks are easy to see, but smaller splits, such as the one
MC. Although still too wet for other types of shown in the lower log section, can open up and cause a blank to fly apart when
you flick the switch. For that reason, inspect your stock before turning.
woodworking, the thick boards and blanks
are terrific turning stock.

woodmagazine.com 51
 WITH THE MONEY HE SAVED, HE BOUGHT THE BARN
Organized not only by species, but also by when the wood was cut, Brian keeps a few seasons’
worth of boards and blanks neatly stacked in his shed.

Diamonds Inside the Rough

These samples prove that real beauty is more than skin-deep. Look for small
branches, ripples, or bulges that offer clues of the interesting figure that may hide
within. Generally, rot is generally bad, but a little can produce spalting. Cut back
the soft exterior wood until you find harder stock.
TURNING IS BEST WITH GREEN WOOD
Turning feels more like peeling while the
wood’s still wet. You’ll get nice, long shavings, Curly maple
even when working wildly figured stock.

Since this sample (photo above) was still Spalted

very wet, Brian rough-turned it to about an elm
inch thick, or half of its finished thickness.
Once turned, it’s important to prepare rough-
turned blanks so that they don’t dry out too
quickly. Some turners bag rough-turned
bowls in brown paper along with a pile of wet
shavings to slow down the drying rate, but
Brian prefers bagging just the bowl. “As long
as the bags are kept out of direct sun, the
paper seems to work well by itself,” he says.
When in doubt, he coats end grain and other White-oak burl Bird’s-eye cherry
wildly figured patches with Anchorseal or
shellac to slow down the drying process.
A final word: before you start sawing—your
biggest problem may be knowing when to
stop. “Sawing into logs is addictive,” says Brian’s Found-Wood Creations
Here are just a few of the items Brian has
Brian. He points to his barn-size collection of
made from backyard logs and scrap
dried and drying stock (photo above right). materials he has come across locally.
“Whether it’s boards or turning blanks, once
you cut into your first log, you’re always
thinking about the next.” ¿

Written by Joe Hurst-Wajszczuk

with Jim Harrold
Illustrations: Tom Rossborough
Special thanks to Bud Loeffelholz

Sources
Moisture meter: #mmeter, $39.95, Metal/
Voltage/Stud Sensor #JDT-03, $12.50, Penn State
Industries, 800-377-7297; pennstateind.com
Low-tension bandsaw blade: #SKU715, ¾" x 105",
2/3-tpi, $26.05; other lengths available; PS Wood
Machines, 800-939-4414; pswood.com
Anchorseal: $28/gallon U.C. Coatings,
888-363-2628; uccoatings.com

52
 Better Homes and Gardens®

PAT TERNS
®

May 2007 Issue 176

®

Dear Reader: As a service to you, we’ve included full-size patterns

on this insert for irregular shaped and intricate project parts. You can
machine all other project parts using the Materials List and the draw-
ings accompanying the project you’re building.
© Copyright Meredith Corporation, 2007. All rights reserved. Printed in the U.S.A.
Meredith Corp., the publisher of WOOD Patterns ®, allows the purchaser of this pattern
insert to photocopy these patterns solely for personal use. Any other reproduction of
these patterns is strictly prohibited.

Pagoda Box, Page 40

Garden Bench/Trellis, Page 58
Caterpillar Pull Toy, Page 64
Picture Frames, Page 72

‡" hole „" deep with a

‹" hole ¨" deep
centered inside

R=1¤" R=1¤"

R=Œ"
Horizontal
›" hole ¤" deep
centerline Caterpillar Pull Toy,
Page 64
FACE LAYOUT
FULL-SIZE PATTERN
53
 14"

Top edge of parts B and E

2" Top edge of part C

End of part E

End of parts B and C

Locations of parts I

Garden Bench/Trellis,
Page 58

5‡"

5‹"

⁄ " holes
9 64

O
P
D

Q
LID FULL-SIZE
PATTERN
R
S

T
54 fi" ¤" holes
U
E ‹"
 Fil
R
fi"

5‡"
C

GARDEN BENCH/TRELLIS TEMPLATE

FULL-SIZE PATTERN

Location of part I

5‹"

5‹"

⁄ "2‰"
9 64 holes

FILENAME: 176GrdenStrPP_#100504512.eps
D
LID FULL-SIZE
PATTERN

fi" ¤" holes

Pagoda Box, E ‹"

Page 40 1‡"
HANDLE BASE FULL-SIZE PATTERN

6fi"

¤" holes ‹" deep

‡"
F
W
Q
O
N

U
V
S

X
Y

Z
M
G
D
C

H
B
A

L
J
I

Front view
HANDLE FULL-SIZE PATTERNS
2Œ" ‡"

‹" F
Bottom view

FILENAME:176PagBoxPP_#100504489.eps
Date: 10-06
Filename: 176Selditz box 2 55
Lorna J. R LeMoine
 FULL-SIZE
PATTERN
shank hole,
countersunk on

BASE
bottom face
‹" round-over

2fl"
9⁄64"

4¤"
Picture Frames, 5¤"
Page 72
BACK and ACRYLIC
FULL-SIZE PATTERN

›" rabbet
5¤"
›" deep

W
Q
O
N

U
V
S

X
Y
BACK and ACRYLIC
‹" cove FULL-SIZE PATTERN

G
D
C

H
B
A

L
J
I
›"
1‹" 6fl" ›
t
‹" cove
p 4‡"
Location of
9⁄64"
shank holes,
support on
back countersunk, on
back
Ï" pilot
holes
fl" deep 4‡"
Location of
9⁄64"
shank holes,
support on
back countersunk, on
back

Ï" pilot
hole
fi" deep
TERN

FRAME
FULL-SIZE PATTERN
SUPPORT
FULL-SIZE PATTERN
56
FRAME
 Simple-to-Make

Garden
Bench/Trellis
Using just a portable circular saw, jigsaw,
and drill, you can build and “plant” this
eye-catching masterpiece in a weekend.

58 WOOD magazine May 2007

 Start with the structure
1 From the straightest pressure-treated ¸" shank hole, 1fi" 41‡"
countersunk
4×4s (3fi×3fi" actual) you can find,
crosscut the posts (A) to the needed length
to reach the frost line for your area. (Check 1 EXPLODED VIEW
with your local building department for the R=1"
frost-line depth.) The minimum length is Ï" pilot hole #8 x 2fi" stainless steel
111", which consists of 87" above grade and 1" deep F.H. wood screw 4‡"
24" below grade for safe support of the
structure [Drawing 1]. 1" C
7fi"

2 At the crosscut end of each post (A), lay 7fi" 8d galvanized

1fi" finish nail
out opposing 5‹" rabbets ‡" deep to
receive the crossarms (B). Using your por- D
D
table circular saw, form the rabbets, as 4fl" D
9fi"
explained in the Shop Tip, next page. If you
plan to build the structure with the seat (not 80fi" C
the optional lattice), lay out and form a 5‹" 5‹" rabbets B
‡" deep 1" C
dado ‡" deep in the inside face of each post, C
where dimensioned. ˇ" pilot hole 1"

3
1fi" deep 34fi"
For the best appearance, rout a ›" B 1fi" dado
round-over along the edges of the posts 5‹" 12‹" 1fi" 1" deep
(A) to remove any unevenness. Then sand 5‹" 2" A
B 1fi"
the posts to 120 grit. 15fi"

A 4 From 2×6 (1fi×5fi" actual) cedar, rip

N and crosscut the crossarms (B) to size.
Then, from 5/4×6 cedar deck boards, rip ›" shank hole
1fi" ›" round-overs

B O I I
and crosscut the joists (C) to size. ›" flat washer
C Note: We based the spacing of the struc-
P
¤" round-overs
›" lag screw
ture joists (C), battens (D), and seat center 3" long
D Q ›" shank hole
rails (G) on 5/4 cedar deck boards that with a
measure 1" thick. If your boards do not H ˇ" pilot hole
E R
measure the same thickness, you’ll need to A 69‡" E 2" deep
S F G in part A
F adjust the spacing of these parts as needed ›" flat
G during assembly. washer G Concrete
T

5
G footing
Lay out a pair of 1fi" dadoes 1" deep at 87"
H U each end of a joist (C), where dimen- F
E
3fi" 3fi"
I sioned
V [Drawing 1], to fit the crossarms (B).
Clamp the four joists together on edge with 10‹" ›" lag screws
J W
the marked joist outside. Now kerf and clean 5‹" dado ‡" deep 3fi" long
X the dadoes, using a speed square to (needed for seat only)
out *111"
K minimum
guide
Y your saw across the parts.
L
M 6 To make a template for drawing the
Z curves on the crossarms (B), joists (C), 12"
47fi"

As an option, install lattice instead of the *Note: Increase length

seat for a privacy screen plant trellis. of posts A as needed to
24" reach your local frost line.
minimum
below- 51"
Local grade
frost line
length

Center of post A

PROJECT HIGHLIGHTS
 Overall dimensions are 80fi" wide × 41‡" deep × 92‹" high (in ground).
 Materials needed: Pressure-treated 4x4 posts, dimensional cedar lumber and
decking, and ‹" PVC lattice (optional), all found at your local home center.
 A full-size pattern for creating a hardboard template makes laying out the curved
parts a snap. Filename: 176 Gardens
FILENAME: 176GrdenStr1_#100504503.eps
Date: 10-06  The structure assembles easily using wood screws, lag screws,Rand
LeMoine
nails.
Lorna J.
1 EXPLODED VIEW 10-18-06
woodmagazine.com 59
 SHOP TIP
A safe way to form rabbets
and dadoes in large parts and seat parts later, photocopy the garden
Using your tablesaw to cut rabbets and bench/trellis template full-size pattern from
dadoes in large parts, such as the posts (A) the WOOD Patterns® insert. Spray-adhere
and joists (C), can be awkward and unsafe the pattern to a piece of ‹" hardboard. Jig-
without proper workpiece support and saw or scrollsaw the hardboard to shape,
guidance. Here’s a simple and safe method and sand the edges smooth.

7
for forming the joints using your circular saw. Align the template at each end of the
Keeping the saw tight against a guide, such
as a speed square, cut a series of kerfs to the
crossarms (B) and joists (C), where
needed depth and approximately 1 ⁄8" apart shown [Drawing 2], and draw the curve
34 ⁄ "-deep kerfs [Drawing 1]. (After marking one end of each
across the part along the length of the
A
18 ⁄ " apart part, flip the part over to mark the other
rabbet or dado, as shown. Break away the
remaining thin pieces with a hammer. Then Speed square end.) Then jigsaw and sand the parts to the
pare away the remaining material with a marked lines.
chisel to smooth the joint.
8 From 5/4×6 cedar deck boards, cut the
battens (D) to size. Mark a 1" radius at
4‡"each end of a batten [Drawing 1]. Jigsaw and
2 TEMPLATE ALIGNMENT FOR CURVE MARKING 4‡" sand to shape. Using this part as a template,
5‹"
"
1 /4
5

Template 5‹" 5
1 /4
"

Flush
1 /4
5
"

of pa
rt I 3 /16
2
"
mark the remaining battens. Now jigsaw
mplate
C tion
of pa
rt Loca

4‡"and sand them.

Edge

Flush
" "
1 /4 I
5 3 /16
3 /16
"
of part 2
rt I 2 tion
of pa
C
C tion of pa
rt Loca
of pa
rt Loca Edge I
Edge parts

4‡"
" rt E tion
of
rt I
3 /16
2 of pa Loca
of pa End
tion

5‹"
C
part Loca "

C Flush
of I 1 /4
Edge parts 2" 5
rts
I rt E tion
of

Make the seat

rt E of pa of pa Loca
End

Template5‹"
of pa tion
End Loca

Flush C Flush Flush

I " 2" /4" "

B
1 /4 1
rts 5 5 I 3 /16
2"
rt E of pa part 2
tion tion
of

1
of pa Loca C

ate
End of pa
rt Loca

Flush
Edge

B Cut the crossarms (E), front/back rails Flush

2" " " "
1 /4
5
rt I
3 /16 rt I 2
3 /16
of pa
2
of pa tion
C tion rt
C
Loca
of part Loca of pa I
Edge Edge parts
rt E tion
of
of pa

fi" overhang JOIST

Loca

(F), and center rails (G) to the sizes

"
rt I 3 /16
2 End
of pa
C tion

JOIST C Flush
of part Loca I 2"
I
Edge rts parts

fi" overhang
E of pa rt E tion
of

Flush STRUCTURE Flush

rt tion pa
of pa Loca d of Loca
End En

B rts
CROSSARM
I

listed. Align the template at each end of 2" 2"

C Flush
ush STRUCTURE CROSSARM
rt E of pa
tion
Loca

B Flush the crossarms (E) [Drawing 2] and draw

fi" overhang JOIST the curve. Jigsaw and sand the curves to the
Flush STRUCTURE CROSSARM fi" overhang JOIST
STRUCTURE CROSSARM Align dottedlines. Then rout ¤" round-overs on the
locations
over ends ofcrossarms
Align dotted locations parts I . and front/back rails, where
SEAT over ends of parts I . shown [Drawing 3].

2
SEAT OUTER SLATS Assemble and clamp together the cross-
1 /4
"
5

5‹" OUTER SLATS Align dotted locations 5

1 /4
"
of pa
rt
I
2
3 /16
"

5‹" over ends of partsarms I . (E), front/back rails (F), and

C ion
part

Align dotted locations

of Locat
Edge
" "
1 /4 I
5 3 /16
rt 2
C ion of pa
part Locat

over ends of parts I .

of

SEAT
Edge

center rails (G), positioning the front/back

I
"
rt E
rts
1 /4
of pa
of pa
5 " ion
rt I
3 /16
2 End Locat
of pa
tion

OUTER SLATS
C
part Loca

SEAT
I 2"
of E parts
Edge

I and center rails where dimensioned [Draw-

" of part ion of 1 /4
"
rt I 2
3 /16
End Locat 5
of pa

5‹"
C tion
of pa
rt Loca

OUTER SLATS
2"
Edge

I
I "
rts I 3 /16
of pa " rt 2
rt E tion
1 /4
of pa

I
5 C
of pa Loca part ion

Flush
Locat

ing 3]. Drill the mounting holes, and drive

End of

5‹"E
Edge
I "
1 /4
rts 2" 5
of pa
"
I
rt E tion
3 /16

I
rt 2
of pa Loca of pa

Flush
End
C ion
part

E
of Locat I
Edge

I
rts

the screws.
rt E of pa
1 /4
" " of pa ion
5
rt I
3 /16
2 End Locat
of pa
C tion
of pa
rt Loca 2"

3
I
Edge
I

I
E rts
rt of pa
" of pa ion

SEAT CROSSARM Cut the center and outer slats (H, I) to

rt I 2
3 /16
End Locat
of pa
C tion
of pa
rt Loca 2"
I

I H
Edge

2" overhang
rts
of pa

SEAT CROSSARM
rt E tion

I
of pa Loca

Flush
End

2" overhang
tion
of pa
rts
I
E H the sizes listed. Rout a ¤" round-over
2"

E Flush I I along the edges of the slats, where shown.

SEAT CROSSARM #8 x 1fl" stainless steel F.H. woodI screw
H shank hole, (You’ll hand-sand round-overs on the ends
SEAT 2" overhang
CROSSARM 3 SEAT ¸"
verhang H 3‹" countersunk after shaping the slats.)

54fi"
47fi"
To mount the center slat (H) to the seat
frame, mark centerlines on the top
edges of the crossarms (E) and ends of the
4
I
A IN I ¤" slat. Position the slat on the frame, centered
round-overs end to end with the centerlines aligned.
B O H I ›" spaces
I ‡" Drill the 10 mounting holes, where shown,
I
C P ›" hole 7⁄64" pilot hole but drive only five screws along the length
Œ" deep to temporarily secure the slat. Now position
3‹" D Q 2 TEMPLATE ALIGNMENT FOR ECURVE MARKING
2 TEMPLATE ‡" ALIGNMENT FOR CURVE MARKING
E R F 19" G
1fi"
S
3a OUTER SLAT
2 TEMPLATE
F 10‡" ALIGNMENT
G FOR CURVE MARKING (Viewed from front)
‡" 2 TEMPLATE ALIGNMENT FOR CURVE MARKING
5‹" T 10‡" 1" G 1"
G F I
Location
H U of part H 46" ¤" round-over
1fi" 2‡" F
V 2‹" #8 x 2fi" stainless steel F.H. wood screw
E I
J W
Filename: 176 Gardenstructure6 E
X
ME: 176GrdenStr2_#100504504.eps
K
Filename:
¸" shank 176
Rhole, Gardenstructure6
countersunk
LeMoine
nStr2_#100504504.eps
0-06 24"
Y R LeMoine
7⁄64" pilot hole 1fi" deep
9-20-06
L
¤" round-overs 9-20-06 Filename: 176 Gardenstructure6
Z
ME: 176GrdenStr2_#100504504.eps
#8 x 3" stainlessM
steel F.H. wood screw
Filename: 176 Gardenstructure6
R LeMoine
-06
2_#100504504.eps R LeMoine 9-20-06
60 9-20-06 WOOD magazine May 2007
 ³⁄₈" spacers

and mount the outer slats (I) to the frame, Build the lattice frame
overhanging the crossarms 2‡" at each end
[Drawing 3a] and spaced ›" apart [Drawing
3, Photo A]. Again, secure each slat with
1 If you prefer a lattice screen instead of a
seat, cut the stiles (J), top rails (K), bot-
tom rails (L), and bottom cap (M) to the sizes
G H I I

only five screws. listed. Mark the center and ends of the arch

5 To round the ends of the outer slats (I)

[Drawing 3], align the template where
shown [Drawing 2] and draw the curves.
on a top rail (K) [Drawing 4]. Draw the shape
using a fairing stick. (For a free fairing stick
plan, go to woodmagazine.com/fairing.) E
Remove the outer slats and center slat (H). Bandsaw and sand the arch to shape. Using 2¾" overhang
Jigsaw and sand the outer slats to the marked this rail as a template, mark the arch on the
A
lines. Then, using a 150-grit sanding block, remaining rail, and bandsaw and sand it.
MOUNT THE SEAT OUTER SLATS
round over the ends and corners to blend Sand all of the parts smooth. From the center slat (H), mount the outer
with the ¤" round-overs along the edges.
Set the seat frame and slats aside. 2 To form the frames that sandwich the
lattice (O) in place, lay out two stiles (J),
slats (I) to the seat frame using ›"-thick
spacers to position them.

8d galvanized finish nail angled at 10° 4 LATTICE (OPTIONAL)

4a END SECTION VIEW
47fi"
12° bevels
N
B
1"
fi" 4"
K
A N A

B O 4"
8d galvanized
C P finish nail
angled at 10° N
K 2‹"
D Q ‹"

46" ¤"
E R 4"
S K K ‹"
F
G T J
J J
H U O
1Œ"
V
J I
J W O
71" 1"
X
K
AY N
L ¸" shank hole,
BZ O A countersunk and
M angled at 10° L L
C P 4"
#8 x 2" ¤"
D Q 1Œ" stainless
steel F.H.
E R wood screw
#8 x 2" stainless steel M
J F.H. wood screw 2fi"
S fi"
F
A
G T

U L
H M
V
4b TOP SECTION VIEW
I 6"

J W
J 4" END SECTION VIEW
2fi" X
‡" L 4a A
K 1Œ"
Y
L
#8 x 2" stainless steel Z
F.H. wood screw M JFilename:176
FILENAME: 176GrdenStr4a_#100504508.eps J
¸" shank hole,
46" Date: 10-06
#8 x 2" stainless
O R LeMoine
countersunk
Lorna J.
steel F.H. 10-20-06
1" ⁄ " pilot hole
7 64 wood screw
#8 x 2" stainless steel 1‹" deep angled at 10°
F.H. wood screw

woodmagazine.com 61

4b TOP SECTION VIEW

 B

a top rail (K), and a bottom rail (L) on a flat

surface in the orientation shown [Drawing B 4"
4]. Note that the stiles are ‹" proud of the J
A
rails [Drawing 4a]. Drill the mounting holes,
and drive the screws. Repeat to assemble the K 1⁷⁄₈"
other frame. N

C 9½"-long
3 Cut the top cap (N) to size. Using your
tablesaw and a pushstick for safety,
bevel-rip opposing 12° bevels on one face
spacer
Joist located 1" [Drawing 4]. Sand the cap smooth.
B from end of part B
TOENAIL THE JOISTS IN PLACE
With an outer joist (C) in place, use 9fi"-long
4 Using your tablesaw or jigsaw, cut the
‹"-thick PVC lattice (O) to size. (We
used cedar-color lattice to go with our
E
INSTALL A LATTICE FRAME
With the frame assembly (J/K/L/M/N)
spacers to position the remaining joists for selected stain.) Because the lattice flexes clamped in position, screw-mount the stiles
toenailing. easily, use a support stand or a helper to (J) to the posts (A).
keep it flat while you cut it.
4fl"
Stain or paint the parts
Apply a stain or primer and paint to the
parts. We applied two coats of Behr Deck
Plus Solid-Color Deck, Fence and Siding
Stain, color California Rustic DP-351 on the
posts (A), crossarms (B), seat frame (E/F/
G), and lattice frames (J/K/L), and color
Cedar Naturaltone DP-533 on all other
wood parts.

Assemble the structure

D
D
1 Center the crossarms (B) end to end in
the rabbets in the posts (A). Drill mount-
ing holes through the crossarms and into
9½"-long the posts, alternating the diagonal hole loca-
spacer C
tions in the opposing crossarms to prevent
lag-screw interference [Drawing 1]. Drive
the lag screws with flat washers, leaving the
7½"-long screws slightly loose to allow for easier
spacer C 1½" assembly of the joists (C).

C 2 To mount the joists (C), position the

post/crossarm assemblies (A/B), spaced
47fi" apart, across two level sawhorses. (We
F
1x3 bracing

PLUMB AND BRACE THE POSTS

ATTACH THE BATTENS
From the outer batten (D), position and placed a 60"-long 2×4 facedown on top of Check that the posts (A) are plumb with a
screw-mount the remaining battens 7fi" each of our sawhorses to support the assem- level. Then stake and brace them using 1×3s
apart with spacers. fastened with 1‹" flathead wood screws.
blies.) Starting at the bottom, clamp a joist
to the crossarms (B) 1" from the ends [Draw-
ing 1]. Toenail the joist to the crossarms Mount the seat
with 8d galvanized finish nails, sinking the Attach the center and outer slats (H, I) to the
nailheads. Then mount the remaining joists frame (E/F/G), driving the screws into all of
in place, using 9fi"-long spacers to position the mounting holes. Position the seat in the
A them [Photo B]. Now reposition and clamp dadoes in the posts (A) [Photo D], and clamp
Seat
Dado the spacers between the joists at the center the seat tightly between the posts. Then drill
to keep them aligned for installation of the mounting holes through the crossarms (E)
battens (D). and centered into the posts. Drive the lag

A
3 Position a batten (D) across the joists
(C) 1fi" from the ends and centered end
to end with a 4fl" overhang [Drawing 1].
screws with flat washers.

Add the optional lattice

D
Drill mounting holes through the batten and
centered into the joists. Drive the screws.
Then position and mount the remaining bat-
1 Screw-mount the bottom cap (M) to a
frame assembly (J/K/L) with an edge of
the cap overhanging the stiles (J) ¤" [Draw-
SLIDE THE SEAT INTO POSITION
Spread the posts (A) just enough so that they tens 7fi" apart with spacers [Photo C]. ings 4 and 4a]. Keeping the same overhang,
fit into the center openings in the seat ends. Remove all of the spacers. Leave the struc- attach the top cap (N) to the frame using 8d
Slide the seat into the post dadoes. ture on the sawhorses. galvanized finish nails angled at 10°.

62 WOOD magazine May 2007

 I
H I
‡ x 7‹ x 120" Cedar (1x8)
Cutting Diagram-Structure with seat I I
A N ‡ x 7‹ x 120" Cedar (1x8)

Cutting
B O Diagram Cutting Diagram
Cutting Diagram-Optional Lattice
Structure Pwith seat Optional Lattice
C
A J
D Q
3fi x 3fi x 120" Pressure treated (4x4) (2 needed) ‡ x 5fi x 96" Cedar (1x6)
E R
B B E K K
S Cedar (2x6) (2 needed)
1fi x 5fiFx 96" ‡ x 5fi x 96" Cedar (1x6)
M
F G T
L L
1fi x 5fi x 48" Cedar (2x6) ‡ x 7‹ x 96" Cedar (1x8)
H U
C
V N
1 x 5fi x I96" Cedar (5/4x6) (4 needed) 1 x 5fi x 48" Cedar (5/4x4)
D J W D
1 x 5fi x 96" XCedar (5/4x6)
K
D G G G
Y O
1 x 5fi x L120" Cedar (5/4x6) D
Z
I M
H I
‡ x 7‹ x 120" Cedar (1x8)

I I
‡ x 7‹ x 120" Cedar (1x8)
‹ x 48 x 96" Diagonal-pattern PVC lattice
Cutting Diagram-Optional Lattice

2 Clamp the frame assembly (J/K/L/M/

N) between
J
the posts (A), positioning
the stiles (J) 1Œ" from the face of the posts
5 POSTHOLE SECTION VIEW
‡ x 5fi
and thexbottom
96" Cedar (1x6)of the top cap (N) 4"
face Materials List
FINISHED SIZE
from
K the bottom of the crossarmsK(B) [Draw- A Structure T W L Matl. Qty.
ings 4 and
‡ x 5fi , Photo
4aCedar
x 96" E]. Drill the mounting
(1x6) A posts 3fi" 3fi" † PT 2
holes through M the stiles and into the posts,
B crossarms 1fi" 5‹" 34fi" C 4
andLdrive the screws. L

3‡ xPlace theCedar
7‹ x 96" lattice (O) on the frame. Then
(1x8) C joists 1" 4‡" 80fi" C 4
Concrete
Nposition the remaining frame assembly FILENAME: 176GrdenStrCD_#100504511.eps D battens 1" 1fi" 41‡" C 10
Depth of hole
(J/K/L)
1 x 5fi x on
48" the lattice.
Cedar Date: 10-06must be at
(5/4x4)As before, screw the Seat Filename: 176
10"-diam.
bottom cap (M) and nail the top cap (N) to Lorna J. least 30",
hole E crossarms 1fi" 5‹" 24" R CLeMoine
2
including 6" for
the frame, and screw the stiles (J) to the a gravel base. F front/back rails 1fi" 2‹" 46" 9-21-06
C 2
posts (A), angling the mounting holes at 10°
O 4 and 4b]. Now tighten the lag G center rails 1" 2‹" 19" C 3
[Drawings
H center slat ‡" 3‹" 47fi" C 1
screws in the crossarms (B) to secure them
to the posts (A). I outer slats ‡" 3‹" 54fi" C 6
Lattice (optional)
Install the structure Gravel
J stiles ‡" 1" 71" C 4
Caution: Before you dig the postholes, 6" K top rails ‡" 4" 46" C 2
dial the “One Call” phone number for your L bottom rails ‡" 4" 46" C 2
state
‹ x or
48 province, and ask to have
x 96" Diagonal-pattern PVCthe buried
lattice M bottom cap ‡" 2fi" 47fi" C 1
pipes and wires on your property located
and marked. If you can’t find the number, N top cap 1" 2fi" 47fi" C 1

call the North American One Call Referral adding or removing gravel as needed. Then O lattice ‹" 47‹" 70‡" L 1
System at 888/258-0808. brace the posts [Photo F]. Now fill the holes †The minimum length is 111" for posts (A). This includes a

1On flat ground, mark the centers for two with concrete.
holes for the posts (A) spaced 51" apart
[Drawing 1]. 4
below-grade minimum length of 24" for safe support of the
After the concrete cures, remove the structure. Increase the length of the posts as needed to reach
1×3 bracing. Fill the screw and nail your local frost-line depth.

2Using a posthole digger or an auger, holes with acrylic caulk, and touch up with

on the marked locations, to the needed depth SECTION

flowers, step VIEW
back, and
Materials key: PT–pressure-treated, C–cedar,
dig/drill 10"-diameter holes, centered stain or paint. Now put in some plants and L–diagonal-pattern PVC lattice.
5 POSTHOLE admire your amaz- Supplies: Spray adhesive; #8×1‹", #8×1fl", #8×2",
to reach your frost line plus another 6" for a ing handiwork. ¿
CD_#100504511.eps #8×2fi", and #8×3" stainless steel flathead wood screws;
gravel base [Drawing 5]. Pour 6" of gravel Filename: 176 Gardenstructure7 ›" lag screws 3" long (8); ›" lag screws 3fi" long (4);
into each hole. R LeMoine ›" flat washers (12); 8d galvanized finish nails; 50-pound bag
Written by Owen Duvall with Dave Grieve of gravel; concrete (one 60-pound bag per 12" depth

3 9-21-06
With a helper, set the structure in place. Project design: Jeff Mertz
Plumb the posts (A) and level the unit, Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson
of posthole); acrylic caulk.
Bits: ¤" and ›" round-over router bits.

woodmagazine.com 63
 Tug-along
Caterpillar

This funny friend wiggles over bumps and around

corners to the delight of children and parents.

PROJECT HIGHLIGHTS
 Overall dimensions: 47⁄16" wide ×
35⁄16" high × 2715⁄16" long.
 Buying stock wood parts speeds Cut the round segments
the construction, and makes it easy to
build more than one. ¼-20 R.H. bolt
 We used poplar for the painted ver- Adjustable circle with nut
sion above and Baltic birch plywood for cutter
the clear-finished version on page 66.
 For the items needed to build this
project, see page 67.

Skill Builder
 Learn simple production methods for
making and finishing multiple parts.

¾×7¼×14" blank Wheel segment

SHOP TIP
To eliminate tear-out, cut the circles 5 ⁄8"
deep from one side, flip the blank, and 1 With an adjustable circle cutter,
cut seven 2½"-diameter round seg-
ments from a ¾×7¼×14" blank. See the
2 To finish-sand the round segment edges,
use a ¼-20×2" roundhead bolt and nut
as a mandrel, and spin the segments on your
complete the cuts from the other side.
Shop Tip at left. drill press.

64 WOOD magazine May 2007

 Form the wheel segments

Wheel segment

Fence-mounted
stopblock
¼"
brad-point
bit

Centered
Wheel- Wheel segment hole
segment
blank
2½"
¾×2½×24" blank

1 For the wheel segments, cut a ¾×2½×24"

blank. Using a round segment as a tem-
plate, trace a radius on each end of the blank.
2 Using a fence-mounted stopblock, cross-
cut a wheel segment from each end of
the blank. Now trace, bandsaw, sand, and
3 Position the fence and stop on your drill
press to center a ¼" brad-point bit on a
wheel segment. Drill holes in the segments.
Bandsaw and disc-sand the blank ends. crosscut until you have eight segments.

WHEEL-SEGMENT DRILLING JIG

Shank hole countersunk on back face

15⁄64"
brad-point
bit 3" 45° 90°

‡" #8 x 1fi" F.H.

2fi" wood screw
9" 2fi"
W

3⁄8"
2fi"
Centerline

15⁄64"
Wheel segment
brad-point

4 Positioning the wheel segments with the

drill-press fence and stopblock, drill
5 To drill the Shaker-peg holes in the
wheel segments, build the jig shown
above. Then clamp the jig to the drill-press
bit

9 ⁄16"-deep axle-peg holes in both edges. fence, with the bit centered over the bottom
Note: The axle pegs and Shaker-peg tenons of the jig “V” and on the thickness of a Wheel
are nominally 7/32". Ours fit better in a 15/64" wheel segment. Now drill a ¼"-deep hole in Drilling jig segment
hole. Drill test holes in scrap to determine 1 WHEEL
each wheel segment, SEGMENT
flip them, DRILLING
and repeat. JIG
the appropriate size for your parts.
¼" brad-point
WHEEL SEGMENTS 45°
Filename: 176caterpillerbit
3 Centerline
15⁄64" hole ‹" deep
R LeMoine
FILENAME:176PullToy1_#100504617.eps 12-11-06
1" counterbore ›" deep

6 On the front and

rear wheel seg-
ments, use a 1"
Date: 12-06
Lorna J.
with a ‹" hole centered
inside (on front and rear
segments only)
¾×2½×2½"
scrap block
Countersunk shank hole
Forstner bit to drill a on opposite face
3 ⁄8"-deep counterbore, 2fi" (on front and rear Wheel segment
segments only) (counterbore facing scrap block)
centered on the ¼" fi"

7
hole. Then drill the 1‹" 1‹" To make a cord slot in the rear wheel seg-
countersunk shank ment, cut a ¾×2½×2½" scrap block, and
holes as shown in the mark a centerline on one edge. Then clamp
›"
drawing at right. the block and the rear wheel segment to the
15⁄64" hole ¨" deep drill-press fence, aligning the centerline and
2fi" the joint between the two pieces with the tip
‹" round-bottom slot ¤" deep of a ¼" brad-point bit. Now drill a hole that
(on rear segment only) intersects the wheel-segment counterbore.

woodmagazine.com 65
Make a happy face

Nose hole
³⁄₈" brad-point
bit
Centerline
intersection points

⁷⁄₈"
Centered
¹⁄₈"-deep
hole

1¹⁄₈" Eye-hole centers

Face half-round ball
Face half-round ball

1 Chuck a 3 ⁄8" brad-point bit into your drill

press, center the face half-round ball on
the bit, and drill a 1 ⁄8"-deep nose hole.
2 To lay out eye-hole centers on the face,
place a compass point in the center of the
nose hole, and draw a 7 ⁄8"-radius circle.
3 Place the face on the Face Layout pattern
on the WOOD Patterns® insert. Transfer
two points where the horizontal centerline
intersects the circle onto the edge of the face.
Then place the compass point at the two
intersection points, and draw 11 ⁄8" arcs to
¾" Forstner intersect the previously drawn circle.
bit
MOUTH CUTTING DETAIL
¾×2½×8"
carrier Carrier
board Cloth-backed
board double-faced tape
Fence
2fi"-diam.
half-round ball
43° Cloth-backed
#8 x 1fi" brass double-faced
F.H. wood screw tape
1fi" fi" 1" ¾×2½×18"
carrier
board
Face half-round ball
Blade tilted 40°

4 To drill the face eye holes, cut a

¾×2½×8" carrier board, and cut a 43°
angle at one end. Then chuck a ¾" Forstner
o
Blade tilted 40 from vertical

bit into your drill press. Next adhere the face

to the carrier board angled end with double-
faced tape, aligning the edge of the face
5 To form the mouth, cut a ¾×2½×18" car-
rier board, and draw a 6"-long horizontal
centerline at one end. Then adhere the face
Now set up your tablesaw as shown, and cut
the mouth. Remove the face from the carrier.
Note: Use cloth-backed double-faced tape
flush with the bottom of the carrier and one to the carrier with double-faced tape, align- to adhere the face to the carrier board, and
eye-hole center with the bit. Clamp the car- ing the face horizontal centerline marks squeeze the parts firmly together in a vise.
rier to the drill-press table, and drill a 1 ⁄16"- with the carrier centerline. Drill a screw hole
deep counterbore. Now switch to a ‹" brad- through the carrier and into the face, and
point bit, and drill a 9 ⁄16"-deep hole, centered drive the 3screw
MOUTH CUTTING
in the drawing DETAIL
above.
in the counterbore. Reposition the face and
drill the other counterbored eye hole.

FILENAME:176PullToy3_#100504619.eps
Date: 12-06 Filename: 176caterpiller 2
Lorna J. R LeMoine
12-11-06

66 WOOD magazine May 2007

Apply finish and assemble 2fi"-diam. half-round ball
1" counterbore ›" deep on rear face
with a ‹" hole centered inside
#8 x 1‹" brass F.H. wood screw
EXPLODED VIEW TAIL

ROUND
SEGMENT REAR WHEEL
1" wooden ball SEGMENT
FRONT WHEEL SEGMENT
with ˛" hole Trim the cord flush with the bottom
‡" counterbore ‹" hole of the wheel segment after assembly.
„" deep with a 1" Shaker
‹" hole ¨" deep, peg
centered inside
2fi"-diam.
half-round ball WHEEL SEGMENT
‡" 2fi" diam.
#8 x 1‹" brass F.H. wood screw
FACE Tail
‡"
˛ x 1¤" axle peg
›" hole ⁄ " hole ¨" deep
15 64

¤" deep ¤" saw kerf

2" wheel
›" button plug with a centered ‰" hole, drilled after assembly
‰" cord 60" long

1 Finish-sand the parts. Then clear-finish

or paint the parts as desired. (We sprayed 4 Adhere the face and tail to the front and
rear wheel segments with double-faced
an aerosol satin polyurethane on the clear- tape. Using the segment shank holes as
finished caterpillar, and used Rust-Oleum guides, drill pilot holes into the face and tail.
Painter’s Touch spray paint in the following Separate the parts and remove the tape.
colors for the painted version: no. 1934
Meadow Green for the wheel segments, 5 Tie a knot at one end of the cord, slip on
a ball, and tie a second knot as close to
face, and tail; no. 1945 Sun Yellow for the the ball as possible. ThenVIEW
thread the cord
4 EXPLODED
round segments and axle pegs; no. 1966 through the face, and tie a third knot 24" ³⁄₁₆" cord
Apple Red for the Shaker pegs and button from the second one. Screw the face to the
plug nose; and no. 1979 Gloss Black for the front wheel segment, capturing the knot in
wheels and balls.) To hold the parts for fin- the counterbore. Now thread a ball onto the
FILENAME:176PullToy4_#100504620.eps
ishing, see the sidebar below. cord, followed by a round segment, and then tighten the tail screws, as shown above.
Date: 12-06 Filename:
Take the176caterpiller
caterpillar for a test1crawl to make
2 With the
Lorna J. paint dry, epoxy the Shaker a wheel segment. Repeat until the last wheel
pegs into the wheel-segment upper holes segment is in place. R LeMoine
sure it is not too stiff or too loose. Make any
in the drawing above. Then slip wheels onto
axle pegs, and epoxy the pegs into the 6 Pull the cord to take the slack out of 12-11-06
the necessary adjustment to the cord tension,
caterpillar body. Then lay the cord into and trim it flush with the bottom of the wheel
wheel-segment lower holes. Make sure the the round-bottom slot in the rear wheel seg- segment. Now present this cheerful follow-
wheels turn freely. ment, and screw the tail in place, loosely around fellow to your favorite toddler. ¿

3 Epoxy the button plug nose into the face pinching the cord between the wheel seg-
center hole. Then drill a centered 3 ⁄16" ment and tail. Written by Jan Svec with Chuck Hedlund
hole for the cord through the nose and face.
Now epoxy the eyes in place. 7 Clamp the end of the cord in your bench Project design: Jan Svec; Kevin Boyle
vise, draw the parts snugly together, and Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson

HOW TO SPRAY SMALL PARTS THE EASY WAY

Supplies: Cloth-backed double-
For this project, you’ll spray-finish a Wheel segment faced tape, #8×11⁄2" brass flathead
total of 81 small parts. Clearly, you’ll wood screw, #8×11⁄4" and #8×11⁄2"
need a simple way to hold them. flathead wood screws, epoxy, 1⁄4-20×2"
roundhead bolt and nut (for the drill-
The photo at right shows how. press sanding mandrel).
For the body segments and Bits: Adjustable circle cutter; 15⁄64",
wheels, drill ¼" holes in pieces of 1
⁄4", and 3⁄8" brad-point bits; 3⁄4" and 1"
scrap, insert 2"-long dowels, and Forstner bits.
Wheel 1" ball
place the parts onto the dowels.
Slip the balls onto a piece of ³⁄ 16" Source
Axle peg Parts kit. 2" wheels (16), 7⁄32×11⁄8" axle
dowel, and slip the dowel into holes pegs (16), Shaker pegs (16), 1" balls with
drilled in scrap blocks. To hold the a 7⁄32 " hole (15), 21⁄2" half-round balls (2),
axle and Shaker pegs and protect ⁄8" button plug (1), plastic eyes (2), 3⁄16"
3

the glue surfaces, drill holes into Shaker peg cord 60" long. Order no. 3026, $19.99 plus
shipping and handling. Meisel Hardware
scrap strips, and insert the pegs. Specialties. Call 800/441-9870, or go to
meiselwoodhobby.com.

woodmagazine.com 67
 Amp-up your
tablesaw!
Even an old beater can perform like a
high-performance machine if you trick
it out properly. Here are our favorite
upgrades for doing just that.

F
or most woodworkers, the shop revolves around the tablesaw. Web pages devoted to tablesaw accessories, finding the right ones
So it makes sense to pump up that machine to be the best it can be a crapshoot. To help you out, we shop-tested dozens of
can be. Sometimes, achieving peak performance with this today’s greatest tablesaw add-ons and winnowed the list down to
vital tool requires upgrading factory parts with aftermarket these 19 items most deserving a spot in your shop. (Prices shown
add-ons. But with hundreds—if not thousands—of catalog and do not include shipping, where applicable.)

Keep control of your work

Moving a workpiece smoothly through the blade markedly improves cut quality. Good workpiece control also helps you start and finish
your project with all ten fingers. These eight products excel on both counts.

Biesemeyer Home Shop Fence, $335  Aftermarket miter gauge, $100–$240 

Biesemeyer (52" rails, BHS52W) Shown: JessEm MiteRExcel (#7100), $240
800/782-1831, biesemeyer.com 866/272-7492, jessem.com
In recent years, tablesaw manufacturers have really stepped up their Factory-supplied tablesaw miter gauges
games when it comes to rip fences. Many factory fences now have a reputation for being inadequate and
equal or exceed aftermarket models. But we’ve never found inaccurate. That’s why replacement miter
a fence we like better than a Biesemeyer. Simple and gauges—some souped-up with length stops,
solid, with super-flat faces, it doesn’t provide adjustable-width miter bars, and positive
fancy microadjusters or T-slots for stops every degree (or even down to .1°)—
mounting jigs or are all the rage among woodworkers.
feather boards. We heartily recommend an upgrade here,
But it does its but we’re not going to tell you which one to
job supremely buy...yet. Why? Because we’re testing about
well and never has a dozen such miter gauges right now, and
let us down in many we’ll share our findings in issue 179
years of use. (October 2007).

68 WOOD magazine May 2007

 GRR-Ripper, $70


Micro Jig, Inc.
407/696-6695, microjig.com
We balked, too, when we saw the price tag.
$70...for a pushblock? But we had to use the
GRR-Ripper system only once to realize its
value far exceeds its price tag. The “tun-
nels” created by the fixed outside legs and
repositionable middle leg allow the GRR-
Ripper to pass over the blade without dam-
age, while keeping your hand well away.
Just as important, those grippy legs provide
MJ Splitters, $15/pair  equal pressure on both pieces as you feed,
Micro Jig, Inc. further reducing the likelihood of kickback.
407/696-6695, microjig.com For ripping stock less than 3" wide, we low-
Most serious tablesaw accidents result from ered the black outrigger to tabletop level, as
kickback (when the rising teeth at the rear of shown, and handled narrow workpieces—
the spinning blade lift and launch the work- even as narrow as ‹"—with safety and
piece back at the operator). Splitters prevent confidence.
kickback, but if you put your factory guard
Hold-downs, $20–$40


on the shelf, you’re robbing yourself of the
protection provided by its splitter. MJ Split- Shown: Grip-Tite, Mesa Vista Design
ters mount on a zero-clearance throat-plate 800/475-0293, grip-tite.com
insert you buy or make yourself. (Learn Every tablesaw (and router table, for
how at woodmagazine.com/zeroclearance.) that matter) needs a good set of hold-
The slightly off-center mounting pins downs and hold-ins, such as feather
allowed us to rotate the splitter 180° to actu- boards, to keep the workpiece flat on
ally press the workpiece against the fence. the table and tight against the fence.
It’s like having a tiny feather board for the On page 78, you’ll find our review of
“keeper” behind the cut. Use the green split- four work-holders that would make a
ters with your full-kerf blades; use yellow good addition to your shop. Check it
splitters with thin-kerf blades. out before you buy.

Sub-Fence Hole Clamps, $25/pair



Mesa Vista Design

800/475-0293, grip-tite.com
Traditional clamps always seem to
get in the way of the workpiece when
you use them to temporarily mount
an auxiliary fence face. (And we just
hate driving screws into a perfectly
good fence if we can avoid it.) Sub-
Fence Hole Clamps fit into holes you
drill into the top edge of your auxil-
iary fence face. Use just one Hole
Clamp to add a stopblock to your rip
fence to gauge repeated crosscuts.

Outfeed Rollers, $300



HTC (model HOR-1038U)

800/624-2027, Flip-Top Portable Work Support, $30 
htcproductsinc.com Ridgid (available at The Home Depot)
We’ve had HTC’s 37"-wide 800/474-3443; ridgid.com
Outfeed Rollers on the cabi- If you don’t have a cabinet saw, Ridgid’s
net saw in our shop forever. They Flip-Top stand makes a great extra hand in
provide at least 48" of stone-solid the shop. We found that its tilting top gently
workpiece support behind the blade, guides a sagging workpiece up to tablesaw-
making it safer and easier to rip long top level, so we could set it up a few feet
and wide pieces, such as sheet goods. behind the saw for outfeed support without
Yet, they add only about 10" to the fear of knocking it over. We tried. Repeat-
back of the saw when folded down— edly. (The large 21×25" footprint helps, too.)
no tools needed—when we need to This inexpensive support is stingy on stor-
open up more floor space. age space, folding to only 3fi" flat.

woodmagazine.com 69
Under-the-table add-ons
that boost performance
“Out of sight, out of mind” may work with the boss, but it’s just plain bad policy when
you’re talking tablesaws. Those inner workings need periodic attention to keep your saw
running true and accurately. These accessories make the job easier.

PALS (Precision Alignment

and Locking System), $20 
Inline Industries
800/533-6709, in-lineindustries.com
Own a contractor-style tablesaw? PALS
may be the best 20 bucks you’ll ever spend.
After a quick 10-minute installation (PALS
replaces your saw’s rear trunnion bolts), you
simply turn a screw to align the blade paral- Power Twist Link Belt, $7 per foot 
lel to your saw’s miter slots. The process is Rockler (item no. 52233)
much more civilized—not to mention accu- 800/279-4441; rockler.com
rate and cleaner—than lying on the floor If your contractor-style saw sits idle much of
whacking your trunnions with a mallet. the time, its drive belt will stiffen into an
oblong shape. That can make your saw as
jittery as a chihuahua chugging espresso. A
Universal Mobile Base, $65  Power Twist Link Belt tames the vibrating
HTC (model HTC-3000) beast because it conforms to the drive pul-
800/624-2027; htcproductsinc.com leys like a bike chain to a sprocket, so it
HTC has made smooth-rolling mobile bases the machine from shimmying while we never sets into that oblong shape. Also, like
for many years, and now they’ve added worked. (That lock also retrofits some older a bike chain, you can loosen or tighten the
foot-operated wheel locks on the fixed cast- HTC bases, if you want to upgrade.) We’ve belt by adding or removing links.
ers, making it unnecessary to stoop over to listed just one base for pricing purposes,
tighten knobs. What we found really but you’ll find these orange pedals on
handy, though, is the foot-pedal locks HTC’s full line of universal and PG2000 Penetrating Lubricant, $8 
that lift the swivel-caster end to keep custom-fit bases. ProGold Lubricants
800/421-5823, progoldmfr.com
We used to recommend white lithium grease
for lubricating the gears that control the
blade tilt and elevation mechanisms. For the
past couple of years, though, we’ve been
lubing the saws in the WOOD® magazine
shop with PG2000. Unlike heavy-bodied
grease that turns sawdust into a gummy
paste, PG2000 sprays on like water and
bonds with the metal to create a low-friction
barrier between parts. Dust doesn’t stick to
it, so it won’t cling to bevel stops, where it
can render them inaccurate.

Retracting Casters for



Contractor-Style Saws, $40 (set of four)

Woodcraft (item no. 141550)
800/225-1153, woodcraft.com
For less money than a full-blown mobile
base, you can add wheels and stoop-free
locking to a contractor-style saw (or virtu-
ally any other machine with splayed steel
legs). Stepping on the spring-loaded lock
lever on each Retracting Caster lifts the
saw’s leg about ¤" off the ground; step on it
again, and the saw rests on its own feet for a
rock-solid foundation. Our favorite part:
The ball casters swivel 360°, so we could
move the saw any direction without having
to jockey it into its parking space.

70 WOOD magazine May 2007

Dial up your dust collection
with these helpers
A good dust-collection system starts at the tool making the dust. These
accessories make dust collection easier or more efficient.

FazLok Quick Disconnect Fittings, $26 

Woodworker’s Supply (starter kit #960085 )
MultiGate, $50  800/645-9292, woodworker.com
Penn State Industries (#LRMSET110) Tablesaw Dust-Collection Guard, $185  Many of us don’t own a central dust collec-
800/377-7297, pennstateind.com Penn State Industries tion system, so we drag a DC hose around
You’ll be more likely to use your dust col- 800/377-7297, pennstateind.com from one tool to the next. To make the job
lector for every cut if you don’t have to walk As the blade cuts, gravity and momentum faster and easier, FazLok Quick Disconnect
across the room to turn it on and off. Open- carry much of the sawdust down inside the Fittings were made. To connect, we just
ing any blast gate on the MultiGate system saw; the debris either drops to the floor or inserted the hose fitting into a mating fitting
sends a signal to the collector via low- gets sucked away by your dust collector. But on the collector or tool and twisted it about
voltage wiring and turns it on. Closing the invariably, some of the chips escape and are ‹". The hose locked and was ready for
gate turns it off. Once you buy the start-up flung back at you. An overarm blade guard/ action. Because the parts are transparent,
kit (including one gate, the controller, and dust-collection port, like this one from Penn we could see when a clog developed at either
100' of wire), you can add as many gates as State Industries, grabs those errant particles end of the hose. FazLok fittings come in
you like for other machines. Each additional and sucks them away through the hollow both 4" and 2fi" versions to fit standard-size
4" blast gate costs less than $11, and you’ll arm. Meanwhile, the clear acrylic guard adds dust-collection or vacuum hoses. Additional
never hunt for the remote control again. safety without restricting visibility. tool fittings cost $8 (2fi") or $9 (4").

These three accessories

add dead-on accuracy
The best-outfitted tablesaw in the world needs to be well-tuned or it means nothing. Check
out some of our favorite measuring and setup tools.

Digital Fractional Caliper, $38 

The Craftsman Gallery
Digital Angle Gauge, $40  866/966-3728, chipsfly.com
Wixey For measurements such as workpiece thick-
TS-Aligner Jr., $135  wixey.com ness or dado depth or width, we formerly
Edward J. Bennett Co. To check or set your blade’s bevel angle, relied on a dial caliper. It was accurate to
800/333-4994, ts-aligner.com first set the Digital Angle Gauge on your .001", but hard to read. Then came digital
You get a lot of alignment for your buck tablesaw top and “zero” it. Now stick it onto decimal calipers that were easier to read,
with this setup tool that rides in your table- the side of your blade, and tilt the blade. The but still unintuitive. (Quick! Is .630" more
saw’s miter-gauge slot. In fact, TS-Aligner LCD digital display shows the precise tilt of or less than fl"?) Now comes this digital
Jr. performs the five major tablesaw tune-up the blade, accurate to 0.1°. Your tablesaw caliper that reads in fractional inches, such
tasks (blade parallel to miter slot; fence doesn’t even have to be level for it to work: Â" or Í", so we don’t have to get out a
parallel to miter slot; blade 90° to table; The gauge simply shows how the angle dif- calculator. Our fave feature: It shows dimen-
miter gauge 90° to blade; and fence face 90° fers from the surface you zeroed it to. We’re sions to the nearest 1 ⁄64", but it also can
to tabletop) with dial-indicator precision. not sure how Wixey can offer this handy convert to decimal inches or millimeters by
Extend its value even more by using it to and remarkably accurate accessory at this simply switching display modes. ¿
dial in alignments on other shop machines, price, but we’re not complaining. Read a
such as your mitersaw, jointer, and planer. full report of our test results on page 95. Written by Dave Campbell

woodmagazine.com 71
 Low-tech, High-appeal
Picture Frames

If you can turn on a router, you can turn heads with these eye-catching displays for your photos.

P
icture frames show off life’s most
memorable moments. And when you
Follow these tips for best results on all three frames
create those frames yourself, well,  To avoid workpiece tear-out and burning, rout  Leave the protective covering on acrylic
that just puts icing on the cake. Rather than in ¹⁄8"-deep increments. Leave ¹⁄32" for the final until it’s ready for installation.
settle for basic rectangular frames, use your pass to ensure a smooth, clean finished cut.
 Finish each frame with three coats of
router table and a few common bits to sur-  Sand individual parts, including all routed spray lacquer, sanding with 320-grit
round your photographs with attention- profiles, before assembly. sandpaper after each coat.
getting craftsmanship.
Before adding the router details, you’ll
turn to your tablesaw, mitersaw, or bandsaw
for a few basic dimensional cuts. After that Add pizzazz with laminated wood and splined miters
you’ll be ready to move to your router table. Contrasting woods—in both the than the 1‹" final width, and then joint
Don’t have one? Make a simple one from a laminated stock and the miter away that Î" to remove the saw blade
2×3' sheet of ‡" plywood with a router splines—give this frame spectacu- marks. If you don’t own a jointer, you can do
mounted underneath and a plywood fence, lar depth and flair. this at your router table using a straight bit.
clamping it along your workbench edge.
The rectangular frames we’ll build here
hold 5×7" photos (3×5" for the oval), but the
1 Begin by machining a 41" length of
cherry to fi" thick × 1fi" wide. Also,
machine a 41" length of maple to ¤" thick ×
Shim the outfeed side of the fence to offset
the amount of material removed. Or, use a
handheld router and a straightedge.
techniques in making the frames work for
any size. Fit smaller photos to these frames
with mat board; for larger prints simply
1fi" wide. Laminate the two together, and
then crosscut that piece into two 20"-long
blanks. Mill an extra piece of ¤"-thick
3 Rout a ‹" cove ‰" deep with a round-
nose bit along one edge of the maple
face of each blank [Drawing 1a].
extend the frame dimensions to fit your
photo. Check out the tips above right, and
then let’s get cranking.
maple 1" wide and 13" long for the splines.

2 When the glue has dried, joint one edge

on each blank, rip them to Î" greater
4 Use the same roundnose bit to rout a
fi" flute ‰" deep on the maple face
[Photo A].

72 WOOD magazine May 2007

 ACCENT THE CHERRY WITH MAPLE FACING AND SPLINES

Stop
90º

¹⁄ 8" slotting
cutter

Stop

A N Splines
A Roundnose bit B C
B O

C P

1 EXPLODED VIEW
D FRAME
Q #1 1a FRAME SECTION VIEW

E R 7"
1‹"
S ›"
1‹" F
G T Cherry ˇ"
›" rabbet ¤" spline fi"
ˇ" deep BACK
U x 7‰"
¤Hx 5‰ ‰"
¤ x 5‰ x 7‰" ¤"
clear acrylic ‹" cove
V
I ‰" ‰" deep
Maple
J W
fi" fi" flute ‰" deep
X SUPPORT
K
A N Y
Turn- L 6"
button Z
B O M
›" 2"
C P
10° bevel 1a FULL-SIZE
D Q FRAME SECTION VIEW
9"
E R
S
F
G T 2 SPLINE-CUTTING SLED
‹" hardboard
H U
V
I 5x7" photo 1fi"
‡" plywood
J W 18" or MDF
X
K 10"
Y Mitered end
FILENAME:176Frame1a_#100504643.eps 90° Filename:
M
5Rout a ›" rabbet ˇ" deep on the back of
L
each
Z blank on the same edge as the cove.
Date: 1-07
Lorna J.
R LeMoin
¤" slot ‡" deep
1-1-07-06
6 Cut the frame sides to length [Drawing 1]
with 45° miters at each end. Glue and
clamp the frame using a band clamp.
‡"
45°
‰"
10"

7 While the glue dries, build the spline-

cutting sled from ‹" hardboard and ‡"
plywood or medium-density fiberboard
EXPLODED VIEW 2]
(MDF) [Drawing FRAME
. #1

8 Now install a ¤" slotting cutter in your

router table centered on the cherry por- 9Cut the maple spline blank into 3"
lengths. Glue and insert the splines into
tion of each frame side. Adjust the fence so the frame slots. After the glue dries,
11
Cut the support to dimension
[Drawing 1] with a 10° bevel on one
SPLINE-CUTTING JIGtrim edge. Glue that beveled edge flush to the
it’s flush with the bit’s bearing. Then, hold- the excess [Photo C]. Then sand the splines frame bottom and centered side-to-side.
ing the frame in the sled and tight against flush to the frame.
both stops, rout the slots in all four corners Filename:
Frame1_#100504642.eps
[Photo B]. 10
R LeMoine
176picture
Cut the frames
back and acrylic
the frame’s rabbet.
5
to fit inside 12
Finish the frame, then install turn-
buttons to the back of the frame to
hold the acrylic, photo, and back in place.
1-1-07-06
FILENAME:176FrameJig_#100504649.eps Filename: 176picture fr
woodmagazine.com Date: 1-07 R LeMoine 73
Lorna J. 11-2-06
Avoid pesky miters with this half-lap frame
Do you struggle trying to cut ROUT SIMPLE HALF-LAPS AND A RABBET ON YOUR ROUTER TABLE
dead-on miters? Then bypass
them and do all your joinery at
the router table.

1 Start by machining the rails and stiles to

dimension [Drawing 3].
Miter-gauge
extension

2 Attach an extension to your miter gauge

to prevent tear-out when routing the
rails and stiles. With a straight bit, cut 1‹"
Miter-gauge
extension

dadoes ˇ" deep on the back face of both

rails [Photo D].

3 Rout 1‹" rabbets ˇ" deep in fl"-thick

test pieces, and check the fit into the rail
dadoes. (The back faces of the rails and
Rail
Straight
stiles should be flush; adjust the bit depth as bit Stile
Stopblock
needed.) Rout rabbets on the front faces of
the stiles [Photo E].
D E
4 Rout a ‹" cove on the inside corners of
the rail ends [Photo F]. Next, rout (or
sand) „" round-overs on the front edges
and ends of the rails.

5 Rout ¤" coves on the front edges of the

stiles where shown in Drawing 3a. Sand
each piece smooth, then glue and clamp the
frame parts. Miter-gauge extension

6 Once the glue dries, rout a ›" rabbet

ˇ" deep on the back of the frame using
a rabbeting bit [Photo G]. It’s not necessary
to square up the corners with a chisel. Cut Rabbeting
the back and acrylic to fit the rabbet using bit
rounded corners. A N

7 Cut the support toB size, O with an edge

beveled at 10°. Glue it flush with the bot-
C P side-to-side.
tom of the bottom rail, centered Cove bit
Rail

8 Finish the frame, andD then install turn- F G

Q
buttons to the back of the frame.
E R
S 3a STILE SECTION VIEW
F
3 EXPLODED VIEW FRAME #2
›" radius BACK
G T ¤ x 5‰ x 7‰" ›" rabbet
fi" 5x7" photo ˇ" deep, routed
1‹" H U1‹" STILE fl" ›" after assembly
1‹" dado V fi"
I 1‹" ˇ"
ˇ" deep
J W fl"
X ¤" coves
K
„" round-overs Y
RAIL L Turnbutton 1‹"
Z
M

¤" coves
›" rabbets ˇ" deep, 9"
routed after assembly
10° bevel
›" ¤ x 5‰ x 7‰"
‹" cove
SUPPORT clear acrylic
1‹" dado
1‹" ˇ" deep 7" 2" 3a STILE SECTION VIEW
‹" cove

8" 1‹" rabbet

ˇ" deep

‡"
Filenam
FILENAME:176Frame3a_#100504647.eps R LeMo
Date: 1-07
74 Lorna J. WOOD magazine May 2007 11-2-06
 TEMPLATES GUARANTEE PERFECT OVALS

Template

Starter
pin

H I J

Good-bye rectangles; hello elegant ovals

Even if you have trouble cutting a
straight line, you can easily make
line with a jigsaw and a fine-tooth blade.
Cut along the outer line with a jigsaw or 6 Rout a ›×›" rabbet along the frame’s
back inside edge [Photo J].
this oval picture frame [Drawing 4]
thanks to well-formed templates.
bandsaw.

3 Install a fi" or larger flush-trim bit in 7 Adhere a frame pattern to a ¤" plywood
back blank, and cut it to fit the rabbet by

1 Start by making two copies of the frame

pattern from the WOOD Patterns®
insert on page 53. Mount one pattern to ‹"
your table-mounted router with the
bearing set to ride on the template. Rest the
workpiece against a starter pin, then slowly
cutting and sanding to the oval dotted line.
Trace the back onto a piece of ¤"-thick
acrylic, and then cut and sand it to match.
hardboard with spray adhesive; then cut and ease the frame into the bit, beginning at the Drill and countersink the mounting holes on
sand the template to size following the points indicated [Drawing 5]. Hold the frame the back where marked.
outer- and innermost lines. Double-face
tape this template to a ‡×5¤×6fl" frame
blank (we used mahogany). To help prevent
securely with rubber-faced pushblocks so
the spinning bit doesn’t jerk it from your
grip. Rout both edges flush to the template
8 Using the support and base patterns,
cut those pieces to rough size, and sand
the edges to the outermost lines. Rout a ‹"
warping, position your board’s grain paral- [Photo I], following the recommended feed round-over on the base’s top. Drill counter-
lel to the longer dimension. directions [Drawing 5]. Remove the hard- sunk holes where indicated on the pattern.

2 Using a #6 flat washer and pencil, mark

lines [Photo H] along the outer and inner
edges for rough cutting. Drill a blade-start
board template.

4 Rout a ‹" cove on the front inside edge

[Drawing 4a].
(Glue the support to the back, let dry, then
drill the two pilot holes.) Assemble the base,
support, and back with glue and screws.
hole near the inner line and cut along that
5 Rout a ›" round-over on the front
outside edge. 9 Finish the frame, then attach turn-
buttons to the back where shown. ¿
4 EXPLODED VIEW FRAME #3 4a FRAME SECTION VIEW
›" round-over A N ¤" clear acrylic 1‹"
›"
B O
Photo BACK
P ›"
‹" cove C
¤" plywood ‡"
D Q

Turn- E R SUPPORT
button A N
S ‹" cove ›" round-over
F
B O
G T
C P
Ï" pilot hole 5 FLUSH TRIMMING
H U fl" deep
D Q START POINTS
V
I d i r e c ti o
E R ed
W Fe n
J 2a FRAME SECTION
S 9⁄64"
shank hole,
›" rabbet F X #6 x ‡" F.H. 9⁄64"shank hole, countersunk
›" deep K FRAME wood screw countersunk fi" on bottom face, Start
G TY here.
centered Start
L
Feed here.
Source: H
M
UZ
‹" round-over direction
Turnbuttons: #27912, $2.00 V per pack of 8. Call
I
or click Rockler, 800/279-4441, rockler.com. fi"
J W
Written by Bob Hunter
#6 x 1" F.H.
X wood screw
Project design by Kevin
K Boyle
Illustrations by Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson
BASE
Y
L
Z
woodmagazine.comM 75
 Mill workers Lee Hearne, at left, and Kenny
Brunt admire the freshly exposed tiger stripe
and quilt figure in the bigleaf maple log
just sawn by the 67" bandsaw
at Hearne Hardwoods in
Oxford, Pennsylvania.

The many faces of

Maple
Figure—in its many variations of grain fluctuations
and color—ranks as one of the more desirable  When figure does occur, it’s usually located in the trunk of
the tree below the first limb or fork, although a rare maple log
and eye-appealing characteristics of wood. can be entirely figured, especially with a curly pattern.
With otherwise modest maple, it may be foremost.  Bird’s-eye figure appears as clusters of indentations in a tree’s
outer tissues and is formed as a result of local suppression of
Yet to many woodworkers, maple’s figure remains growth caused by some form of injury to the tree.
clouded by mystery.  Burls yield swirls of eyelike markings surrounded by distorted
wood fiber (buds), and usually occur near ground level in the

T
he term “figure” describes certain well-defined patterns greatest proportion on maple. But you’ll also find them in spe-
in wood resulting from variations in texture, grain, and cies such as elm, boxelder, redwood, and walnut. Similar to
color. But talk about maple with other woodworkers bird’s-eye, the cause is associated with the tree’s spontaneous
and you’ll spark as many names for its different types of figure growth in reaction to an external stimulus of its wood cells.
as there are theories about how and why it occurs. To shed  The dark lines that create zones in spalted maple come from
light on this confusing subject, we did heaps of research, then fungi in the wood’s beginning stages of decay, and can occur
spoke with some knowledgeable figured-wood suppliers. in combination with figure. For it to hold up to machining,
wood with spalting must be sawn before decomposition
What causes figure in the first place? advances to the spongy stage. There’s also a rare type of stain-
A tree’s location, nutrition, natural threats (fire, wind, disease, ing called “ambrosia” or “ghost” caused by infestation of the
etc.), and rate of growth are all probable contributors to figure. Ambrosia beetle.
Few, however, have been scientifically proven as directly (Note: Working with wet spalted wood has been associated with a
responsible. Here, though, is what we do know with a fair few cases of serious respiratory infection, so as a precaution,
amount of certainty. machine only kiln-dried spalted wood and always wear a mask.)

76 WOOD magazine May 2007

 Crotch figure is obtained when sawyers cut through the fork
just below where the trunk first branches. Maple crotch, Figured-maple reference guide
because of unsightly ingrown bark in the fork, is not generally Names describing figure often vary with the person giving
sawn for the marketplace. the description, especially with veneer, because how the
wood is cut determines the resulting figure pattern (and
Is figured maple uncommon? mostly enhances it). In lumber, naming is more straight-
Figured maple is hard to come by, according to Rick Hearne, forward. Below you see the most common types of figure
owner of Hearne Hardwoods in Oxford, Pennsylvania. “In my found in maple boards, along with their accepted trade
state, if you were to cut 200 sugar maple trees, you’d be lucky names and any necessary explanation.
to get one with good figure. In fact, I’ve visited a mill in Oregon
that had maybe half a million board feet of bigleaf maple, yet
only 1,200 board feet of it was quilted.”
“Demand plays an important part, too,” says Jim MacDer-
mot, an associate at Gilmer Wood Company in Portland,
Oregon. “Most of the really great figured maple goes for veneer
Bird’s-eye. No other names.
and custom items, leaving little for the average woodworker.”

How is figured wood graded and sold?

Sellers of figured wood follow the National Hardwood Lumber
Association’s (NHLA) grading rules for boards (FAS, Select,
Common, etc.), but on top of that, add their own grades for
figure, based on appearance. One seller, for example, might
Burl. Called burr by some, but otherwise no other name applies.
use grades that describe the amount of visible figure: low,
Large and most impressive in bigleaf (Oregon) maple. Usually sold
medium, heavy, and musical-instrument grade. Another whole or slabbed, but sometimes available in board form.
could grade this way: A (for minimal figure on one face)
through AAAAA (for outstanding figure on both faces and/or
unusual figure). Pricing is a combination of NHLA hardwood
grade and the supplier’s figure grade.
Figured-maple prices start at about $6 per board foot for a 4/4
board with modest figure and rise to $45 or more per board foot
for highly figured, musical-instrument-grade stock.
Curly. The undulating “waves” have a lustrous appearance when
It’s about the same with burls, without the NHLA hardwood occurring in hard maple.
grading. For instance, a seller may grade burls (whole, slabbed,
or as turning blocks) by category: From Mill Run (30%+ burl
figure) to Museum (90%+ burl figure)—with several levels
between— and sell them at a per-pound price. For example, a
small, one-pound 2×4×4" slab of bigleaf maple burl with
50%+ figure can cost you about $10. ¿
Written by Peter J. Stephano Tiger. Compared with curly, the waves or stripes are more
Photographs: Courtesy of Brian Hearne/Hearne Hardwoods numerous and closer together, and mostly in soft maple. “True
fiddleback has even closer stripes in hard maple,” says Rick
Hearne, “and it’s traditionally quartersawn.”
Buying Tips
Due to the relative scarcity of figured wood, including burls, in
the lumber industry as a whole, keep the following suggestions
in mind when you shop:
 Find a long-established, reputable seller who specializes in
figured wood. “And if you’re serious about working strictly with
such specialty stock, visit the seller in person if you can,” adds
Rick Hearne. “The travel cost would be worth it to get you on the Flame. Distinguished from tiger in that the stripes appear wavy
and/or branched, resembling flickering flames.
same page.”
 If you must buy by mail order or the Internet, understand all
the terms the seller uses. “Know how the grade of figure is
determined, the appearance of the figure [name, as explained at
right], what defects there may be, and how the wood was dried,”
Jim MacDermot advises.
 Order enough the first time. “A reorder may result in
wood from a different tree, which could mean a slightly Quilted. Exhibits a rectangular pattern of elongated, closely
different color or figure pattern,” MacDermot notes. “And crowded patches. When the pattern of patches seems to bubble,
understand the waste factor,” Hearne says. “With bird’s-eye it’s called blister.
maple, for example, you’ll seldom see a board that has
more than one-third outstanding figure, because veneer
manufacturers buy the most highly figured logs. With curly
and tiger, though, the whole board may have figure.” For a
list of suppliers of figured maple, visit
woodmagazine.com/figuredmaple.
Spalted. No other names, although “spalded” is a spelling
woodmagazine.com sometimes seen. 77
Wise Buys Why buy?
Apparently, someone was listening when a woodworker
said, “I wish I had an extra set of hands.” Those helping
Our Editors Test hands come from stock hold-ins and hold-downs, which
secure workpieces on tablesaws, router tables, and other

Hold-ins/
machines. We tested several and found that nearly all
worked well at holding stock for accurate, consistent
positioning—and preventing kickback—while cutters slice
away. You can make your own hardwood feather boards,

Hold-downs
but they could break easier than the rigid plastic kind.
Some of the higher-priced models apply side pressure and
downforce simultaneously.

BENCH DOG FEATHER-LOC WOODHAVEN MODEL 240K, $35 GRIP-TITE 2000,

10-005, $20; 40-011 (PAIR), $20 $40 EACH, $150 KIT

Editor test-drive: Editor test-drive: Editor test-drive:

The simplicity of these feather boards This pair features high-density plastic I couldn’t believe the holding power of the
doesn’t diminish their versatility and value. “fingers”—guaranteed not to break—that magnetic Grip-Tites. Not just for pinning
The first finger on the infeed side, ¹⁄8" are molded at a 4° angle away from the workpieces against the fence and tabletop
shorter than the rest, helps you set the plate. The fingers then compress as you with canted abrasive wheels and super-
correct pressure by simply resting that feed stock between them and a table or tough plastic fins, but also the powerful
finger on your workpiece. Tighten the fence, creating just the right amount of grip of the magnets themselves.
knobs (you have to hold the Feather-Loc holding pressure. Setting that tension is Nevertheless, they’re quick to pick up and
parallel or the back end can move), and simple: Press the tool’s fingers against your move by flipping a cam lever that pries the
the other feathers automatically hold with workpiece with pressure until they are unit away from the metal surface.
the ideal pressure. I found this very helpful touching parallel to the board edge, then No matter the amount of red oak, cherry,
rather than guessing at it. The Feather- tighten the knobs. The pair are or pine I pushed through my tablesaw,
Locs also work great inverted as stops on interchangeable between the mounting the Grip-Tites didn’t shift. And there were
the router table fence for stopped dadoes attachments to accommodate different- no burn marks when I deliberately slowed
or grooves. size stock. Mount them to the fence-face the feed rate, because they prevented
You need to mount a sub-fence with T-slots, or on top with the included the workpieces from creeping toward
T-track onto your tablesaw rip fence or bracket. You also can remove the bolts the blade.
router table fence if yours doesn’t have T- and simply clamp them to your table To use one as a hold-down, I flush-
track built in. To test the Feather-Locs, I or fence. mounted Grip-Tite’s optional steel
ripped hickory and hard maple and I ripped hard maple on the tablesaw, fenceplate on MDF and attached it to my
intentionally paused in midcut. There were and the pair held the workpieces safely rip fence. On my steel-top router table, the
no burn marks or kickback because the against the fence and table and away from Grip-Tites could be placed anywhere
boards were pinned tightly against the the back side of the spinning blade. On because they don’t need a miter slot. This
fence. On the router table, I used a tall the router table, I machined ³⁄8" round- kit includes two hold-downs and a 42"-
profile bit to make crown molding in white overs and coves in pine and hard maple, long steel fenceplate; a similar step-up kit
oak, and they held the 3½"-wide stock and again the stock did not waver from its features stronger magnets and choice of
tightly to the fence, even at the top. fixed path. fence lengths and sells for $160.
—Tested by Bob Hunter, Techniques Editor —Tested by Dave Campbell, Editorial Manager —Tested by Bob Wilson, Techniques Editor
To learn more: To learn more: To learn more:
800/786-8902; benchdog.com 800/344-6657; woodhaven.com 800/475-0293; grip-tite.com

78 WOOD magazine May 2007

 ROUSSEAU 3301DL, $160

Editor test-drive:
Although it will not work on a
tablesaw, this proved to be a very nice
unit and worth the price tag for its
advantages on a router table. The
spring-loaded rollers have a 5° cant to
pull workpieces toward the fence while
also holding them flat to the table. This
was especially beneficial when I used a
large panel-raising bit on white oak
door panels. Little or no hand pressure
was needed to hold the workpiece
against the cutter, making for
incredibly smooth profiles.
I machined ¾"-wide poplar to form
base shoe for my house trim. The
curved UHMW hold-down and bit-
guard fixture proved adequate for this,
so you really don’t need the rollers until
you are using larger workpieces and
larger bits. Loosen a setscrew, and they
slide off the attachment rod.
I mounted the fence to my table with
the easy-to-follow directions (you have
to bore two ³⁄8" holes for this), but I did
make one change: Instead of just
tightening the carriage bolts so their
heads seated into the substrate, I used
threaded inserts to attach the bolts
from underneath. Without them, the
bolts could slip from their seated
position when loosening the fence,
allowing them to spin.
This fence offers other great extras
besides the holding attachments: a
molded port for a vacuum hose, a
protective bit cover, and fence panels
with side-to-side adjustments. ¿
—Tested by Kevin Boyle, Senior Design Editor
To learn more:
800/635-3416; rousseauco.com

woodmagazine.com 79
 edit 12-5-06 TJC

Shop Tips The Top Tipster

Helping you work faster, smarter, and safer

Change drill-press tables

quickly with a vise Top Shop Tip

Photo: Gabriella Barsotti

I use my drill press for both
metal- and woodworking,
but found that I wasted 2x4 mounting
lots of time switching from cleat
my oily old metalworking Auxiliary table Until recently, Sgt. Keith Stadler drove
table to one more suitable
for woodworking. But now 0306-06
past the famous leaning tower in Pisa,
Italy, every day on his way to work.
I change auxiliary tables as He has since retired from the Air Force
easily as a drill bit since I and continues to pursue 6-13-05
his love of
TJC
added a cross-sliding vise Cross-sliding
woodworking in Europe, where he
edit 12-5-06 TJC
to my drill press table, as vise met his other love, Nadine. His
shown at right. biggest challenge while living in Italy:
To install my auxiliary “Buying supplies, such as finish or
woodworking table, I glue, when you can’t read the
mount a 2×4 cleat onto its language,” he quips. “I learned to rely
bottom, and then clamp on a few trusted merchants to get me
the cleat into the vise. Not what I needed.” Keith’s Top Shop Tip,
only does this make at left, proves equally practical.
changing tables lightning-quick, but I Cross-sliding vises are available in this
also can use the cross-sliding action of country, too, from retailers such as Grizzly
the vise to perform microadjustments Industrial (G1064, $46, 800/523-4777, or We’re shipping
for precise drilling every time. grizzly.com). Keith Stadler
—Keith Stadler, Pisa, Italy —WOOD ® magazine the European
version
of Freud’s
FT3000VCE
Reduce HVLP noise and clogged filters plunge router
Some time ago I built a small in return for
finishing booth in my basement contributing
this issue’s Top
shop, where I shoot with an On/Off switch Shop Tip. Enjoy
HVLP turbine sprayer. But the inside finishing room it, Keith!
turbine was loud in that small
space, and the air filter would Duplex
load up with overspray. I solved receptacle Top tips earn tools!
both problems by moving the outside
turbine outside the spray finishing Tell us how you’ve solved a workshop
room
booth. Here’s how. stumper and you’ll get $75 if we print
I mounted a low platform just it. And, if your idea garners Top Shop
large enough to hold the Tip honors, we’ll also reward you with
turbine unit on the wall outside a tool prize worth at least $250.
the spray booth, as shown. Send your best ideas, along with
Taking a cue from a kitchen Turbine photos or drawings and your daytime
garbage disposal, I then wired a phone number, to: Shop Tips, WOOD
switched outlet outside the Magazine, 1716 Locust St., LS-221,
booth, controlled from inside Des Moines, IA 50309-3023. Or, by
the booth. With the turbine’s e-mail: shoptips@woodmagazine.
power switch “on,” I plugged it com. Include your contact info in the
into the switched outlet. Finally, Platform e-mail as well.
I bored a hole through the wall Because we publish only original
for the sprayer’s air hose. tips, please send your tips only to
—Wayne Johnson, Grand Ledge, Mich. WOOD magazine. Sorry, submitted
materials can’t be returned.
continued on page 82

80 WOOD magazine May 2007

Shop Tips
Right-size sandpaper
with this “cutting” board
Tearing sandpaper sheets to size is a tedious task made
easier with this simple jig. First, cut some scrap hardwood to
the length of a hacksaw blade. Rip three pieces to the
widths shown below and plane them to slightly different
thicknesses to create the “steps,” as shown. Make a shallow
rabbet for the blade in the 23 ⁄4"-wide piece and then edge-
glue the pieces together. Epoxy the blade in the rabbet and
you’re ready to make piles of properly sized sheets in no
time. By butting the edge of the abrasive against the correct
step, you can tear-off half-, third-, and quarter-sheets for
your power sanders or for hand-sanding blocks.
—Lynn Lawrenz, Algoma, Wis.

Hacksaw blade
100

e
1¹³⁄₁₆" ¹⁵⁄₁₆" 2³⁄₄"

Shallow
rabbet
for blade

You have to know the limit to heed it

Every drill bit has its optimal speed where it cuts quickly
without burning. You can keep a drill-press speed chart
handy, but here’s a no-fuss way to get the right speed for bit
sets that come in cases. Write the recommended speed next
to the bit inside the case, as shown below. Here’s the method
I use: On the top line, I jot down the softwood speed; below
that, the hardwood speed. To save space, I drop the last two
zeros from the number. For instance, 600 rpm would be
expressed as a 6. A 23 indicates 2,300 rpm.
—John Anderson, Long Island, Va.
Download a free drill-press speed chart at
woodmagazine.com/charts.

Recommended
bit speeds

continued on page 84

82 WOOD magazine May 2007

 Shop Tips
0405-04
Tame heavy hoses with a strategically placed elbow
Every time I had to fight the large dust- By attaching a 4" 90° PVC elbow hose to a 4" male coupler (I used a Jet
collection hose on my planer—keeping (thin-wall sewer pipe fits well) to the 5-7-05 JW1047
TJC quick-connect coupler, $5 at
edit 5-24-05 TJC
it away from boards exiting the planer— planer’s dust port with self-tapping amazon.com),
edit 6-14-05 TJC
and fit the coupler into
I felt a little like Jim on Wild Kingdom screws, as shown, you create a rigid the elbow when you use the planer.
wrestling a huge anaconda in the platform that holds the hose out to one —Kelly Churchill, Medford, Ore.
Amazon jungle. Growing tired of the side of the
struggle, I found a solution that gets the planer. Next,
hose permanently out of the way. connect the

4" 90o PVC elbow

4" male
coupler

Planer
dust port

Thin-wall PVC 4" quick

spacer disconnect
#6 x ¹⁄₂"
self-tapping fitting
screws

84 WOOD magazine May 2007

4" 90o PVC elbow

4" male
coupler
Piggyback your lathes to save space, be sturdy
As I was trying to find a home for
my new mini lathe on my already
crowded bench, I realized that
with a little creativity, it would fit
Mini lathe
on my full-size lathe. Here’s how
you, too, can save shop space and
give your mini lathe extra stability.
Create a 3 ⁄4"-plywood base for
your mini lathe. Rip a cleat from
2x material to snugly fit the gap
between the ways of the big
lathe’s bed. Attach the cleat to the
center of the plywood base and
Mounting
mount the mini lathe to the base. Secure to
base
(Be sure to countersink the the lathe bed
with clamps. Cleat, length
mounting-screw heads so the base
of base
rests firmly on the rail bed.) sized to fit
To install the mini lathe on its between ways
big brother’s back, move the tool
rest and tailstock out of the way
and slide your mini lathe into
place. Secure the base with
clamps, as shown.
—John Stacy, Garwood, Texas

continued on page 86

woodmagazine.com 85
 0
Shop Tips
To sand circles, strap on
this gritty “bow tie”
If you need to sand the inside of a large hole for finishing,
you can use your fingers and a good deal of patience, but
usually, the results will be uneven. A better and faster
solution is to use the technique shown below. Cut a piece of
3 ⁄8" dowel rod 4–6" long and use a bandsaw to cut a slot into

the end of the rod. Next, take a strip of cloth sandpaper and
loop it into the slot so that the loop is slightly larger than the
hole you want to sand. Install your hole sander in a variable-
speed drill and let the sanding loop smooth the inside of
the hole.
—Daniel Kingsberry, Gatineau, Que.

Sandpaper strip,
looped and
inserted in slot
cut in dowel.

Correction pen ends the old shell game

Many portable power tools come with clamshell carrying
cases that protect the tools and keep their accessories
organized. But after you’ve collected quite a few of these
cases (and many of them are dark, with few identifying
features), confusion starts to gain a foothold. For easy
identification of the hidden treasures, I mark the name of the
case’s contents with a correction pen. The white ink is
durable and contrasts nicely with the case for easy
identification.
—Jack Ipson, Highlands Ranch, Colo.

Correction
pen

Blow-molded tool case

continued on page 88

86 WOOD magazine May 2007

Shop Tips

Dial in blade height for

ultimate accuracy
Unsatisfied with the “almost” accurate
results I would get from setting the
blade and bit height on my tablesaw
and router, I created this simple dial- 0-1" dial indicator
indicator stand that brings surgical
precision to establishing cutting depth.
To create the stand, cut it as shown
from ¾"- or 1"-thick acrylic (my first
choice) or hardwood. In the top of the Setscrew
stand, drill a hole large enough for a 0–
1" dial indicator’s mounting sleeve and
Stylus
install a setscrew to hold it firmly in
place. Next, add a ½"-diameter flat tip
to the indicator’s stylus. The tip is
necessary because of the alternating
bevels of the saw blade’s teeth. ¹⁄₂" flat tip
To use the indicator, first zero it out Acrylic stand
against the tablesaw table or router
base, then position it over the blade or
bit and measure the depth of cut. These
inexpensive indicators—$13 to $20—
provide accuracy to within .001" and
the satisfaction of getting the most out
of your tools.
—John Lorbiecki, Hubertus, Wis.

88 WOOD magazine May 2007

 0 7 0 5 -0 3
Wet/dry vac rack reins in
wandering attachments
One of the most valuable tools in my 8 -1 5 -0 T5 J C
e d ts 1 2 -6 -0T J5 C
shop is the wet/dry vacuum. However, e d it 1 -5 -0T6J C
like lost socks in a dryer, I had a serious
problem keeping track of the various
1¹⁄₂" holes attachments.
drilled My solution was to build
the wooden
through top* racktoshown
Inside arc match below to
provideoutside
a stable home
radius offor the
wandering vacuum canister
attachments.
2x4 I cut the curved rack parts for my 11⁄4"-
diameter vacuum accessories from
scraps of 2×4; for 21⁄2" accessories, you
may need to go with 2×6 stock. (The
⁵⁄₈" holes
arc of your vac canister also figures in
1" deep drilled
here, too.) Your best bet is to create a
from bottom
0 7 0 5 -0 3
cardboard template to fit the contours
of dowels
⁵⁄₈"your canister. After assembly, secure
10" long 8 -1 5 -0 T5 J C
the rack to the vac* Note: with stretch
For cords
e d ts 1 2 -6 -0T J5 C
attached to the dowel rods. ¿
2¹⁄₂" diameter
e d it 1 -5 -0T6J C
1¹⁄₂" holes hose
—Charles Beach, Morganton, N.C.
1" deep attachments,
drill 2³⁄₄" holes
1¹⁄₂" holes drilled in 2x6
through top* Insidestock arc
orto match
outside
plywood. radius of
⁵⁄₈" holes vacuum canister
1" deep
2x4

⁵⁄₈" holes
1" deep drilled
from bottom
⁵⁄₈" dowels
10" long
* Note: For
2¹⁄₂" diameter
1¹⁄₂" holes hose
1" deep attachments,
drill 2³⁄₄" holes
in 2x6
stock or
plywood.
⁵⁄₈" holes
1" deep

Attach
accessory
caddy
with
stretch
cords.

woodmagazine.com 89
Quick & Easy Jig

Bandsaw
Lumber
Maker
Turn firewood into free
stock for small projects

View a FREE 5-minute video

on using the jig at:
woodmagazine.com/videos

C
‹-20 star knob

T
he more we worked with this jig the
more we liked it for turning found 1 BANDSAW LUMBER MAKER ‹" washer
Ç" hole, centered
wood into valuable stock. Here,
we’ll cover the basics of using this jig for #10 x 1fi" panhead wood screw CLAMP BLOCK
(used to secure stock to fence) ‡ x 2 x 2"
ripping small logs and other odd-shaped
‹" flat washer 18"
blocks of wood into short boards. FENCE
Œ" slot
Cut the jig pieces to shape 4" long ‹" round-over
Cut the subbase, base, fence, bolt-support
block and braces to size from ‡" plywood *10" BRACE
7"
[Drawings 1 and 1a]. The height of the fence
will be determined by the clearance of your 90° BASE
A N
bandsaw blade guard to the bandsaw table.
7" ‹" slot
BBandsaws
O with riser blocks and 16" band-
saws will rip wider stock and allow for a 9"
P
Ctaller 4" 7fi"
fence than the clearance of a standard
D14" Qbandsaw. 10‹" 18"
Cut the dado, drill the holes, and form #8 x 1fi" F.H. RUNNER
Ethe R
slots in the pieces where marked. See wood screws › x ‡ x 11"
S ¸" holes, countersunk
F on bottom side
All stock ‡" thick except where noted
G1a TFENCE (Blade side shown)
20" 12"
H U 18" 4"
4" 4" SUBBASE
V Location of brace ‡" dado ›" deep 4"
I
W 1"
J 3" Distance from ‡" hole ‹" deep in bolt
9" bandsaw blade to 5fl" support block with a
X 11›"
K miter-gauge slot Ç" hole centered inside
*10" Y
›" BOLT-SUPPORT BLOCK
L 5fi"
Z MITER-GAUGE SLOT RUNNER **ˇ x 2 x 2"
M › x ‡ x 22" Masking tape **Thickness to clear
top of fence rails
Location
of base ‹" carriage bolt 3" long
2fi" ¸" shank hole, 2fi"
countersunk ‹" slot 5‡" long *Height of fence will depend on clearance
4fl" between bandsaw table and blade guard. continued on page 92
on front face

90 WOOD magazine May 2007

Quick & Easy Jig
[Drawing 1a] for slot locations in the perfectly stable when cutting. With the with the subbase and bandsaw blade,
fence. We’ve intentionally offset the workpiece screwed to the fence, position allowing for consistent width from the front
middle slot in the fence to the knob slot in the workpiece so it overhangs the subbase to the back of the piece being cut.
the base to better access the middle fence by about 1" to allow for drying and planing. Tighten the knob and make the next cut.
slot. Cut the runners to size from solid Tighten the knob to secure the base to the Determine exactly how far the screws
stock. Rout ‹" round-overs on the handle subbase. For long stock (over about 18") we through the fence enter the workpiece to
openings in the braces. Assemble the jig recommend using a helper or an infeed and avoid hitting the screws with the blade. Our
in the configuration shown using glue and outfeed table to keep the jig flat on the 1fi" screws protrude into the workpiece ‡",
screws. Add finish to the different pieces. bandsaw table when starting and finishing so we never cut closer than 1‹" from the
Do not glue the runner to the base as you the cut. fence allowing us fi" of clearance between
have to remove it later for certain Make the first ripping cut [Photo C]. The the blade and ends of the screws.
operations. handle openings in the braces allow you to
Caution: Resawing exposes large portions push the stock through the blade while Using the fence for standard
of the bandsaw blade as the blade guard keeping your hands clear of the cutting resawing operations
has to be raised just above the workpiece to blade. Turn the saw off, and back the jig Remove the base/fence from the subbase.
allow the stock to move through the blade. and stock past the blade once it has stopped Place the base/fence assembly between
When making cuts, the blade is often moving. Using a combination square, mark the bandsaw column and blade [Photo
hidden in the wood being cut. Always an increment line on the masking tape E]. Adjust the position of the fence to the
know exactly where the blade will exit the [Photo D]. Allow about ¤" extra for the blade for the desired thickness to be cut,
wood and never push the workpiece at the kerf and any possible machining (sanding and clamp the base/fence to the bandsaw
blade exit point when finishing a cut. Use a or planning) you want to do to the resawn table keeping the fence parallel to the
block of wood as a pushstick if needed. stock later. For example, if you need fi" miter-gauge slot. It’s important that the
finished stock, mark fl" increments. workpiece have a flat bottom to ride on the
Using the subbase Loosen the knob and reposition the bandsaw table. ¿
as a sliding table fence/base assembly on the subbase,
For log half sections and other workpieces too aligning the outside edge of the fence with
large to fit between the assembled jig subbase the next increment mark on the masking Written by Marlen Kemmet with Chuck Hedlund
and blade guard, secure the log section or tape. The runner on the bottom of the base Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson
workpiece to the subbase with wood screws, allows you to move the base/fence parallel Project Design: Brian Hahn, Avoca, WI
making sure that the screw heads are
countersunk so they don’t scratch the bandsaw
table surface. For a stable fit against the
subbase, machine the bottom surface of the
workpiece as flat as possible. A hand plane,
power plane, or wide jointer work well. Fence
Draw a cutline on the bottom surface of
the workpiece of where you want to make the
first bandsaw cut. Position the subbase upside
down on the workpiece and line up the edge
of the subbase with the marked cutline. For
stability, the subbase should cover at least half Subbase
of the workpiece to keep the workpiece from
Base
tilting when bandsawn. Screw the workpiece
to the subbase.
Position the jig on the bandsaw table A B
with the miter-gauge slot runner in the
miter-gauge groove and make the first cut
[Photo A]. Do not use this process for a
round piece of wood (log or branch). For
round stock use the subbase with the fence
for maximum stability. For a free article on
Masking
chainsawing log stock to size, visit tape
woodmagazine.com/chainsawblanks

Combine the subbase and

base/fence for max support
Secure the base/fence assembly onto the
subbase with the carriage bolt and knob,
and screw the workpiece to the fence in at
least two places. Some workpieces [Photo
B], might need to be shimmed to keep them D E

92 WOOD magazine May 2007

Shop-Proven Products About our product tests
We test hundreds of tools and accessories, but only those that earn at least three
These woodworking wares passed our shop trials stars for performance make the final cut and appear in this section. Our testers
this issue include: Pat Lowry, Steve Feeney, and WOOD® magazine Projects Editor
Jan Svec. All are avid woodworkers.

Simple, sophisticated gauge sets bevels and more Wall-mounted collector

proves quiet and capable
When floor space in the shop gets tight, the
only place to go is up, whether on the wall
or hanging from the ceiling. General
International’s 10-060 M1 wall-mounted
dust collector saves on floor space and does
a good job of gathering workshop debris.
That, despite its 2fi" inlet that makes it
seem more like a shop vacuum than a
serious dust collector. It’s nowhere nearly
as noisy as a vacuum, though, thanks to its
‡-hp induction motor that makes it sound
more like a tablesaw than a router.
I used the 10-060 M1 on every dust-
making power tool in my shop, from my
drill press to my tablesaw. It sucked away
the refuse as well as a larger floor-standing
As a woodworker for more than 30 years, collector, perhaps because the smaller-
there aren’t many tools and accessories that diameter hose increases the air velocity.
make me say, “Wow!” Wixey’s Digital My shop vacuum could never keep up
Angle Gauge definitely is one of them. with the volume of chips generated by my
This compact setup tool measures the angle planer because its tub
between two surfaces, such as a tablesaw filled too quickly. Not a
top and blade, and displays that angle (+ or problem with this unit’s
- 180° to the nearest 0.1°) on an easy-to- 30-gallon bag. It mounts
read LCD. on the bottom of the
Inside the Digital Angle Gauge is a sort 1-micron rated fabric
of electronic “plumb bob” that lies against filter that mounts to the
an electronic protractor. When you rest the bottom of the machine. I
gauge on a reference surface (tablesaw top, did find it a bit difficult
for example) and press “zero,” all angles it to install the collection
shows will be relative to that tablesaw top bag on that filter by
until you zero it again. Built-in magnets myself, because it’s not
stick the gauge to vertical surfaces, such as rigid like the bag rim of
a bandsaw blade, or the tablesaw blade a traditional collector.
shown at right, so you can measure the Make no mistake,
angle between the blade and the tabletop. Digital Angle Gauge though: The
I was skeptical that a $40 gadget could Performance ★★★★★ performance of this
be that accurate, so I compared it with my Price $40 collector falls
machinist square. With my tablesaw blade Wixey somewhere between a
raised, I saw no light between my square digital@wixey.com, wixey.com full-size dust collector
and the blade body, so I declared the angle and a shop vacuum. Its
90°. As the Digital Angle Gauge rested on Wixey gadget more reliable than my chief selling point is the
my tablesaw, I zeroed its display, as shown machinist square. floor space (and your
at top. When I rotated the gauge to stick it Before I knew it, I had gone through aching eardrums) that it
to the blade, it disagreed with my square, most of the machines in my shop, dialing saves.
saying the angle between the tabletop and in everything—jointer fence, bandsaw —Tested by Steve Feeney
blade was 90.1°. table, and mitersaw bevel stops, to name a
I needed a tie-breaker, and a couple of few—with the Digital Angle Gauge. Keep 10-060 M1 Dust Collector
quick test-cuts in some 2"-thick maple in mind that because it relies on gravity to Performance ★★★✩✩
scraps proved the machinist square wrong. make its measurements you can’t use the Price $350
I reset the blade bevel to 90° using the Digital Angle Gauge to measure horizontal
General International
Digital Angle Gauge, and the test-cut angles, such as the miter stops on your 888/949-1161; general.ca
revealed perfection. I repeated my tests at mitersaw.
45° and once again found the electronic —Tested by Pat Lowry continued on page 96

woodmagazine.com 95
Shop-Proven Products
I-Driver offers a new twist
on right-angle drills
At first glance, Bosch’s I-Driver looks like
an ordinary cordless right-angle drill
driver, and it does play that role very well.
But this versatile driver’s head also pivots
and locks into any of five angles, ranging
from right angle to inline driver (like the
old powered screwdrivers).
With the I-Driver’s head set at 90°,
I easily readjusted some false drawer fronts
and reinstalled the pulls on a cabinet in my
shop without having to empty its contents.
Rotated and locked in at the 157.5° detent,
I used it to install some plumbing brackets
that I couldn’t possibly reach with any
other drill or driver.
Powered by a lightweight 10.8-volt
lithium-ion battery pack, the I-Driver feels
comfortable and well-balanced in my hand,
with enough power to easily drive ‹×2fi"
lag screws into the edge of a 2×4. Run time
is great, too: In my tests, the tool
consistently drove more than one hundred
3" production screws into pine on a single
charge. (Recharging the lone battery pack
that comes with the I-Driver takes about
30 minutes.)
The quick-release chuck accepts only ‹"
hex-shank bits. Because that style of chuck
allows a drill bit to wiggle some, precise
hole placement can be hit-or-miss. But for
driving screws, it works fine. I used the
seven-position sliding clutch when driving
brass screws, and the screws pulled snugly
without damage. I also like the soft-start
feature here, where even a robust pull of
the I-Driver’s trigger results in a slow but
steady ramp-up to full speed.
—Tested by Pat Lowry

I-Driver (PS10-2)
Performance 
Price $150
Bosch
877/267-2499, boschtools.com

continued on page 98

96 WOOD magazine May 2007

Shop-Proven Products
Digital depth display is router’s best quality
With more power tools sporting lasers, a The 17517 offers plenty of
digital display, or both, I knew it wouldn’t power, its low center of
be long until somebody put one or the other gravity helps it feel well
on a router. Always innovative, Craftsman balanced, the plunge
is the first company to offer a plunge router mechanism operates
(model 17517) factory-equipped with an smoothly, and dust collection
easy-to-read, lighted digital depth gauge. proved effective. But a few
Just like setting up a typical plunge things about the tool bugged
router, you first plunge the bit so it touches me. For one, I noticed some
the workpiece, then lower the 17517’s rack- play between the plunge posts
and-pinion-style stop rod to the base. Press and their bushings. I didn’t
the “zero” button on the display and then have any trouble with bearing-
raise the stop until the display shows the guided bits, but when I routed
depth of cut to the nearest 1⁄64" (or .1 mm). a progressively deeper dado
Lock the stop in place and make your cut. with a fi" spiral bit, the dado
To test the accuracy of the gauge, I used also grew wider, starting at
the 17517 to rout through-dovetails around .500", and ending up at .515".
a template. Relying only on the digital Second, the variable-speed
display, I set the cutting depth to leave an dial on the 17517 is recessed
extra 1⁄64" at the ends of both pins and tails. into the front of the router
Without making a test cut, I plowed the body, presumably to prevent accidentally Plunge Router #17517
dovetails and assembled the joints. Both changing it midcut. But that also makes it Performance ★★★★
pins and tails were 1⁄64" proud—exactly as I more difficult to use when you Price $140
wanted them. Three words: Accurate, easy, intentionally want to change bit speed. Craftsman
and impressive. —Tested by Pat Lowry 800/377-7414, sears.com

98 WOOD magazine May 2007

Shop-Proven Products I
H D

Four-jaw lathe chuck with five-star value

The multiple work-holding options ■ A substantial B
A E
provided by a four-jaw lathe chuck screw center (H).
(sometimes called a scroll chuck) make ■ A T-handle hex C
many turning operations so much easier wrench for the
than using a faceplate. Once you have one, jaw-mounting screws (I).
you’ll wonder how you ever got by without ■ A handy case that keeps it all together.
it. Four-jaw chucks always have been Getting a lot of parts for a little money F
pricey, though, especially when you add doesn’t mean much if the chuck doesn’t G
the extra jaws to make it really versatile. perform well, but that’s not the case with
Thumbing through the Penn State the Barracuda2. I used this chuck
Industries catalog a few months ago, extensively for more than six months,
however, I stumbled onto a bargain I turning several vessels up to 11" in
thought had to be too good to be true: a diameter and three small tapered display Barracuda2 System (#CSC3000C)
fully accessorized four-jaw chuck, called pedestals. Every time I used it, the Performance ★★★★★
“Barracuda2,” for only $170. I ordered one Barracuda2 held the workpiece securely, Price $170
to check it out, and the news is good. and I felt both comfortable and confident
Let’s start with all the stuff you get: while turning with it. Penn State Industries
800/377-7297; pennstateind.com
■ A nicely machined chuck body (A) For bowl turners, there’s an extra bonus.
threaded for a 1" × 8tpi (threads per inch) Two different sets of flat jaws for gripping
spindle with a ‡" × 16tpi adapter (B), bowls by the rim also are available: one chuck, including all the accessory jaws
operated by a very positive and easy-to-use with a capacity up to 5" diameter ($25), you’ll likely ever need. If you turn stuff
square-drive T-handle wrench (C). and another up to 8" ($30). Comparable larger than 12" in diameter, you should go
■ Four sets of jaws (D, E, F, G) that hold jaw sets for other chucks run about $85. with one of the more hi-fi chucks on the
objects from Ï" to 4¤" diameter in Bottom line: For less than the cost of market. But for most of us occasional
external-grip mode, and from Ø" to 4Œ" most other chucks with one set of jaws and turners, the buck stops here. ¿
diameter in internal-grip mode. a screw center, you get a really great little —Tested by Jan Svec, Projects Editor

woodmagazine.com 99
What’s Ahead

Better Homes and Gardens® WOOD® magazine (ISSN-0743-894X) is published seven times a year in March, May, July, September, October, November, and December/January by Meredith Corporation, 1716 Locust St., Des Moines, IA 50309-3023. Periodicals postage paid at Des Moines, Iowa, and additional mailing offices. Better
Homes and Gardens trademark registered in Canada and Australia. Marca Registrada en México. One-year subscription prices: U.S. and its possessions, $28; Canada, $41; other countries, $49. Canada Post Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40069223. Canadian BN 12348 2887 RT. CANADIAN RETURN ADDRESS:
A sneak peek inside the July issue (on sale May 15)

FEATURED PROJECT

Stackable bins
With just one sheet of medium-density fiberboard, a half-sheet of hardboard, and
a small piece of poplar, you can build and stack three identical units shown above.
They’re perfect for kids’ rooms, entryways, and garages.

Better Homes and Gardens WOOD magazine, 2835 Kew Drive, Windsor, ON, N8T 3B7. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Better Homes and Gardens WOOD magazine, P.O. Box 37439, Boone, IA 50037-0439.
Bistro table
You can buy everything you need for this project at your home center on Saturday, Jewelry stand
and (thanks to the simple construction) apply a coat of finish on Sunday. Gather those highly figured pieces
of scrap you’ve been hanging on to,
and transform them into this
quick-to-make gift.

Standards for precise woodworking

How accurate is “accurate enough” for quality shop
work? We’ll tell you when to rest easy and when to
ramp up your pursuit of perfection.

TOOL NEWS

Software secrets
Want to design projects on your
Replaceable-cutter router bits home computer? Now you can! Don’t swear, get square
These super-tough bits outlast conventional Today’s design software is far Woodworking sure is a lot more fun when your tools and tech-
brazed-carbide bits many times over. Find friendlier and more affordable niques yield squarely machined and assembled workpieces.
out if they’re right for you. than you might think. Learn from a pro how it’s hip to be square.

108 WOOD magazine May 2007