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Crafts Soldering Notes

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17 views2 pages

Crafts Soldering Notes

Uploaded by

aimashass7
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Soldering

Always wear safety glasses when using the torches!

 Flux protects against oxidation during the soldering process. Should be the consistency of
Greek yogurt, add a little bit of water if it seems dry.
 The pieces of metal that are being joined should fit together tightly, no light shing
between the seams
 Metal should be clean before soldering otherwise the solder will not flow
 Solder will always flow to the hottest spot, heat evenly.

Hard solder: Flows at 1450°


Medium solder: Flows at 1360°
Easy solder: Flows at 1325°

Start with hard solder because it will create the strongest bond, if you don’t have any other seams
to do hard solder is the default. When you start constructing pieces with multiple seams it
becomes more important to start with hard solder before switching to medium and then easy. If
you start with easy, when you go to add another solder seam your easy seam will open back up.

1. Prepare and clean the metal to be soldered


 Pieces can be cut on the stomp shear to ensure a straight edge, but the stomp shear
creates a beveled edge which is a problem when soldering. If you use the stomp
shear to cut pieces, make sure to sand away with the bevel with an aggressive
sandpaper (80 grit).
2. Clean solder and cut into pallions
 Keep solder in a long piece and cut pallions as needed rather than cutting it all at
once to make it easier to clean. Solder will oxidize just like any other metal, clean
with soap and water

T-Seam
Set your pieces up on a firebrick, using a third arm and/or t-pins as needed to hold pieces in
place. Flux the seams and place solder pallions along the seam.

When starting to solder, heat everything consistently (unless one of the pieces is significantly
smaller than the other, for example wire to sheet).

The hottest part of the flame is right in front of the interior blue cone. If you’re working far away
from the blue cone or too close to the torch tip, the flame is too cold. When starting to solder,
keep your torch further back and start to warm everything. The flux will become white and
chalky, then it will become sticky and liquid again. Once it gets back to the liquid state,
rearrange pallions (use a soldering pick) as they will have jumped around while the flux is
changing states.

Start focusing your heat now, working on a pallion at a time until it flows along the entire seam
Quench and pickle your piece
Sweat Solder

Disc cutter
(Factory metal is soft enough for the cutter, if you’ve put a lot of texture on your piece anneal it
before putting into the disc cutter)
 Use the disc cutter to cut out a circle
 Take the cutter out of the rubber circle that it sits in and place it on the red rubber
mat especially if you’re working on an anvil.
 Dig the cutting edge of the punch into the burr-life
 Line up the disc cutter, put your clean metal into the cutter and place the punch
into the appropriate hole. Place a scrap piece of metal into the opposite side of the
cutter to balance it out
 Tighten the tool
 Hammer the punch with a brass hammer- make sure you’re hammering the
correct side of the punch

Flow solder on the circle you just cut out. Flux the entire surface and be very generous with your
solder pallions. Flow that solder until the surface is covered.

 Flux the surface of your square sheet


 Flux the circle and place onto the square sheet
 Use a third arm to hold the circle down to prevent the bubbling of the flux from moving
the pieces around
 Focus the heat onto the bottom square pieces so that the solder on the circle flows to the
bottom sheet.
 You’ll know its soldered when you can see a river of silver solder appear around the
circle

Ring band

 If you want to wear the ring, use a ring sizer to figure out the size you need
 Check the ring chart to figure out what length of metal you need to cut, based on the
size you want and the gauge of metal you’re using.
 Cut your metal with a saw to avoid the bevel from the stomp shear
 Form the ring blank into a D shape- not a perfectly round shape. Bend it so that the
two seams come together on a flat plane. Do this with flat-nose pliers, then use a
mallet to gently hammer the two edges downward until they meet.
 Put the ring bang into a ring clamp and saw directly through the seam, this removes
material from both sides which will make the two sides match up perfectly.
 Hold the seam up to the light and make sure you can’t see any light shining through.
This ensures that you’ll have a good solder seam.
 You can solder the band from the inside or the outside, depending on where you have
texture and what would make it easier to clean up
 Flux the seam, place pallions along it and flow the solder.

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