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Chainsawcarve Handbook 2021 01-07

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Chainsawcarve Handbook 2021 01-07

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scjpoly
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© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Chainsaw Carving

Handbook
for beginner and experienced carvers

Called “schrooms” by chainsaw carvers, they are a


good beginner carve, and will pay for the equipment you
will need, to become a “Chainsaw Carver”.

Russ Kubara, Beausejour, Manitoba, Canada,


email: chainsaw@mymts.net
2021-01-07
Chainsaws
Chainsaws tted with “low kickback” cutting chain can still be a
hazard. Most manufacturers provide an operators manual that
should be studied careully. Kickback can occur when the upper
nose of the saw bar becomes engaged with the wood. Reducing
the size o the nose o the bar will reduce the risk.

A smaller rear handle chainsaw has less weight and power, is


easier to handle for long periods of time and when equipped with
a narrow bar and low prole chain it has reduced “kickback” and is
safer to use for chainsaw carving. A small nose (“dime” or “quar-
ter” tip) carving bar has very little kickback.

An “arborist bar” with a smaller roller


nose is a good startier for carving. A
good dealer will swap out the stock Personal protective equipment
bar.
(PPE)
Safety practices generally recommend that chainsaw users wear
protective while operating chainsaws. There is general agreement
worldwide on what clothing is suitable, but local jurisdictions have
specic rules and recommendations.

PPE should be approved by the authorized standards organization


in your country.
helmet: to protect against kickback to top o head.

visor or goggles: to protect from chips reaching the eyes.

gloves: provide a better grip and can absorb vibrations.

hearing protection: reduces temporary and permanent hearing


loss.

Written by a professional chainsaw protective pants/chaps: layered with fabric that reduces injury to
carver, published by Fox/Chapel and the surface of the leg by “jamming” the saw.
is available from Leevalley tools,
|Amazon and more. boots: approved steel toe safety boots.

frst aid kit: containing a large wound dressing.


Carving Logs
- soft grained wood log, maximum 12 inches in diameter, four feet
tall, is recommended for beginners.

-“Green” (fresh cut) logs are generally easier to cut as well. E.g.
Spruce, Pine, Cedar, Cypress

Safety First!
Chainsaws are designed to “rip” through wood very quickly. It can
be a dangerous tool and should be treated very seriously. Acci-
dents with the chainsaw can occur and can lead to injury or fatality.

Always wear protection: safety glasses, ear muffs, chainsaw


6 pieces o 2x6 x 18 inches long make
chaps, gloves, safety boots, face-shield, hard hat. an ideal platform for up to 16in logs.
(screws from underneath)
Stabilize The Log
Use ground stakes, sandbags, a larger diameter base or a carving
stand. Secure the log with wedges or screws.

Secure the area


Keep the area around your carving clear of clutter. Remove cut-
offs to a safe distance to avoid stumbling while using the saw..
Spectators can distract and should be kept at a distance.

Be prepared! Add legs to raise the log for more


-Organize the tools and supplies that you will need. This can in- “comfort”. Drill two holes for lag
screws into the base of the log.
clude:
-pre-mixed fuel / oil
-bar oil (without dye if available)
-chainsaw wrench
-brush (for cleaning around oil/fuel caps).
-le (le guide recommended)
-marking tool (grease pencil/ chalk)
-driver and screws (for screwing log to the base).
-power sander (angle grinder)
-extension cord
-Barking “spud” or spoke shave

Recommendation!
The angle grinder can have more kick than the chainsaw . Paddle switch grinders will
stop if they are ripped out of your hand when caught in your clothing.
DO NOT REMOVE THE GUARD!

*The guard can be modied to match the sanding disk.


*Top handles reduce the chance of injury to your left hand.
Planning
What you need:
Paper, pencil, chalk or crayon, pictures, sandpaper, nishing oil,
brush.

Planning and Design:


Study photographs or other carvings and do some sketches on
paper or carve a model out o clay. Plan your “blocking cuts” care-
fully as they set the basic proportions of the carving. Templates
may be practical.

Transer your design to the log:


-Decide which ace o the log will be your ront. I there are checks
already orming place the largest one to the back. I you measure
Using modeling clay to plan your from the center of the “heart” of the wood to the outside edge,
“blocking” gives you a “model” to help place the shortest measurement to the back. It is likely going to
you set your proportions correctly. split there.

-Mark the center lines on the top o the log rst then continue the
lines down the sides. Mark the middle down the aces o o the
log. This will give you reference lines for the transfer of your de-
sign.

The Rough Out


Chainsaw carvers call this “blocking” and should be done with a
larger saw i available. Mark these very careully as you do not
want to remove too much material at this stage. Consider the path
of the cut, the start and end points and the depth.
Note: remove pieces of cut-offs front under foot immediately.

Position Yourself.
Beore you begin any cut, make sure that you are in a stable
stance and can reach the end of the cut without changing your bal-
ance. Stand slightly to the side of the cutting path.
*Use reference pictures to imprint the
images in your mind. Carve Away!
Make sketches, use a grid, or nd
Once you have are blocked out, you are essentially going to
patterns on liine.
“sculpt” away material. Do not go too deep at rst. Stand back
*Once the proportions are set the and evaluate proportions and symmetry.
shaping and detailing must become
“instictive”. Detailing
Some carvers will do all the details with the chainsaw. Others will
*That only happens by being very
familiar with your subject. use chisels and/or power carving tools. An angle grinder for eve-
ning suraces, a fap sander or smoothing, hand chisels or ne
details.
Finishing
The wood should be stabilized to reduce “checking” here are many
products on the market that will do a good job. Minimum would be Carving Saw Set-up
a linseed oil based wood sealer. Work it into any cracks, seal the A detailing saw with a carving bar
bottom of the log as well. will require a 1/4” drive sprocket or
1/4” pitch chain that is needed to get
*Properly dried wood is more stable and will crack less. around the small tip of the bar.
(more to come)
The Stihl MS170 is oten a rst saw
for beginners because the conversion
Note: If you are carving in direct sunlight try to keep the back of the parts are commonly available.
log to the sun.
Stihl 1/4” Spur Sprocket
1123-640-2007

Cannon Carving Bar


-CCD-C1-12-50 - C1 Mount,
-12 Inches,
Chainsaws -.050 Gauge,
-0.250 Pitch,
-64 Drive Links
I consider mysel a serious “recreational” carver and my recom- *Chain
mendations will be from that point of view. A logger or a pro carver STIHL RAPID™ Micro™ (RM)
may recommend totally differently. 1/4” pitch part #3660 000 0064
(or Oregon 25A)
When we hold our beginner camp we never go over 12 inch logs
so that a 14 inch (MS170) can do all the cutting. For a detail saw File 5/32” diameter
we recommend the MS170 with dime tip conversion for our camp.
*Modication Required
There are three stages in carving and it is idela to have at least remove the back o the cutter to
three saws with the best bar/chain for each stage. enable cutting at the tip.

Blocking:
On my patterns these are the red cuts. They set the proportions
and general shape of the carving.

Any stock saw can be used or blocking.


Using 45cc saw or blocking can be more productive.
(i.e. Stihl MS250)

Shaping:
An MS170 and or MS180 with a 12 inch .043b gauge arborist bar
is well suited to shaping.

Detailing:
The MS 170 with converted to 1/4 pitch spur sprocket with a 12
inch “dime tip” carving bar is suitable.

*Laminated carving bars will wear faster than a solid bar.


A Cannon .050 x 12” dime tip is a good choice.
Finishing
your carving for outdoor display

FACT
Traditionally “Seasoned wood” is when “free water” in the wood
has been allowed to escape slowly over a period of time.

FACT
Unseasoned wood exposed to open air will dry more quickly rom
the outside layers, resulting in shrinkage stress between the outer
and inner layers. The result is “checking” (cracks).

Solution: Reduce the water content of the wood in a controlled


environment.
“Checking” is teh radial cracks that
form as water is released faster from Solution: Controlled air drying or Kiln drying
teh outer layers resulting in the outer
layer shrinking while teh center re-
mains stable.
Solution: Control the rate of water escaping.
Use a protective sealer that allows moisture content to escape.

FACT
Sun and rain are potentially damaging to wood. Cycles of wet/dry,
can destroy the outer cells of the wood, turning them soft and gray.

FACT
Exposure to extreme changes in temperature is potentially damag-
ing to wood. I the wood is not “sealed” then water can penetrate,
freeze and damage the cellular structure.

Solution: seal the outer most wood layer.


Oil nish with antiungal properties and UV inhibitors.

FACT
Exposure to extreme changes in temperature is potentially damag-
ing to wood nishes. The wood and the nish will expand/contract
at dierent rates and result in hair line “cracks” that will allow water
to penetrate the wood behind. This oten results in black mold
forming behind the coating.
Some low VOC nishes do not have
any antifungal properties. A “mildew- Solution: Do not allow sealers to orm a “skin”.
cide|” can be added to the can. Brush on, brush in, allow to penetrate, wipe off excess.
This bottle treats one gallon. repeat.
FACT
Insects can still penetrate and damage the carving:

Solution: Apply an insecticide prior to sealing the wood.


Solution: Install “Borate Rods”
Solution: Treat the log with “PEG” (stabilizes and makes the wood
insect resistant).

Recommended Practices or “green” (unseasoned) wood:

-Allow the wood to “season” in a controlled environment.

-Stabilize the log by in a “kiln” (numerous technologies available).

-Ater carving allow to air dry in a shaded area, when “checks”


orm, apply a sealer allowing it to penetrate deeply into the cracks. Borate Rods are recommended for
“stump carvings”.
-After carving, but before detailing, apply a sealer, allow to stabilize
for a few days before “detailing”.

-Before carving or after roughing out apply PEG wood stabilizer


generously allowing it to penetrate deeply and “replace” the water.

-Apply a log stabilizing treatment.


(i.e. SIKKENS: Green, Wet, or Treated Logs: These logs may have
a moisture content greater than 18%.

image rom permachink.com


Sealing Carvings
All wood carvings whether green or aged wood should be sealed
to reduce the rate o water evaporation to reduce checking and to
protect from moisture penetration.

Natural Oils
Boiled Linseed Oil (BOL), Tung Oil, etc. penetrate and form a
protective coating that when dry, allows moisture to escape slowly.
Multiple layers offer the best protection, however offer no antifun-
gal or UV protection.

Recommended Procedure:
Apply liberally, brush in and allow to sit for twenty minutes, wipe off
excess.
“modied” linseed oil is most Repeat each day for seven days.
often the base oil in many Repeat monthly for one year.
nishing products. Repeat yearly.

Mineral Oil Based Sealers


WIKI:
There are many suitable wood treatments available that offer ad-
Mineral oil is any of various color- ditional protection or carvings that will be outdoors. Look or a
less, odorless, light mixtures of product that offers:
higher alkanes rom a mineral Antifungal protection
source, particularly a distillate of pe-
troleum,[1] as distinct from usually
UV protection
edible vegetable oils. Water “borne” (often penetrate deeper)

Varnish
Recommendation: Varnish offers the best protection from moisture and stains. For
I a log has a lot o moisture (carved
outdoor carvings you want to use an oil bassed “spar” varnish with
green) the escaping moisture will UV inhibitors and antifungal additives. A spar varnish withstands
cause varnish to peel. temperature changes better than an indoors.

Temperature extremes can cause Most varnishes offer no antifungal properties.


varnish to orm hairline cracks. Wa-
ter penetrates can cause mold and
Recommended Procedure:
peeling. Apply liberally, brush in and allow to sit for twenty minutes, wipe off
excess.
It is best to keep carvings out o teh Repeat to form several thin layers.
sun and rain and stired inside during (like plywood it adds strength to the seal)
colder months.

Maintain yearly with a resh coat to ll hairline “cracks” in the var-
nish and any “checks” in the wood.
Beginner Resources
The internet is a great resource for reference photos and
chainsaw carving information.

I ound this recent article by Chainsaw Carver Michelle Thevenot


at:
www.popularwoodworking.com.

Chainsaw Carving for Beginners


https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/chainsaw-carving-for-beginners/

Michelle shares her experience with a passion for her art and the
subjects she carves on her Facebook page:
Michelle Thevenot is from
Osler, Saskatchewan,
Canada.

Chainsaw Carving Videos


Chainsaw Chad (DeRuischer) has a Youtube Channel that features
excellent time lapse video demonstrations, no strings attached.

Chainsaw Chad / Chainsaw Carving


https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKRKH1zHGvTSW0FeVymuaDA
Chad carves a Schroom
https://www.youtube.com/
watch?v=bd7daDeKN_A&t=229s

Chainsaw Carving Events


Facebook “Chainsaw Carving Events” page is for events to post
current information.
https://www.acebook.com/groups/1509603812463367
In person attendance o a carving event is a good way to connect
with other carvers as well as learning by watching the progress

RIDGWAY SEMINARS Rooster’s Google Map of chainsaw


carving events worlswide is updated
yearly based on events that have
BOB KING taken place that year.
https://www.google.com/maps/d/
viewer?mid=1WrkByQPZ21UH-
OdlT1xZN_oMe4&hl=en_
US&ll=45.70773766171526%2C-
99.62200024999999&z=2
Search Youtube for Ridgway Rendez-
vous Seminars featuring many of our
top carvers.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8_K-mszN3s
Equipment List
Chainsaw with 14 inch bar (up to 12 inch logs)
PPE gas can with safety spout
Personal Protective chain le
saw “scrench”
Equipment
PPE (personal protective equipment)
chainsaw resistant pants or chaps
eye protection
hearing protection
dust mask
Hearing gloves (with gel pads)
Protectiion stable base for the log

Finishing
angle grinder (with paddle switch & guard)
electric drill
sanding disks
Chainsaw Chaps heavy duty extension chord
Eye Protection
or pants paint brushes
wood sealer

Marketing (to buy more tools)


display sign
price tags
acebook page
Safety Shoes Gloves local paper feature

More Tools (needed)


chainsaw with carving bar
angle grinder with carbide sanding disk
die grinder with carbide bits
rotary tool or ne detail
extra carbide bits
chainsaw sharpening guide
Dust Mask Face Shield tool box for more tools
and More Tools (nice to have)
nger belt sander
multiple grinders
multiple die grinders
Arbortech Mini Grinder
Manpa Belt Cutter
eye tools
benchtop chain sharpener
Filtered
More:
Respirator Upgrade all power tools for less vibration
Powered
Respirator & Faceshield
Dealers
Bear Neccessities T&D Carvings
Sculpture on line store
Supplies Cannon Bars,
Awesome tools or Chainsaw Carvers!
Carving Bars, Sprockets, Power Gouges, chain, sprockets
Chains, Saburrtooth bits, Saburrtooth
Arbortech and Manpa Tom & Dawna Cerriani
Bob & Cindy King: http://sawnuts.com/ http://www.tanddcarvings.net/Online-Tool-Store.html

Chainsaw Carving Bars,.


Carving Chain,
Accessories & Parts
Carving Saw Kits

https://www.baileysonline.com/chainsaws/
chainsaw-carving.html

Power Carving Tools


Arbortech
CarbideDisks & Burrs
Sanding & Detailing Simon O’Rourke
https://www.chippingaway.com/ https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/
CANDY HEARTS
LUV U
XOXO
HALF LOG
KISS ME
BE MINE
6 3 0 3 6
LOL
0
YES
AWE SOME
9
ONLY YOU
BE TRUE

16

These Patterns are meant to be


a starting point to establish pro-
portions only.

It is important to study images o


the subject and x them in your
memory to enable you to shape
and detail.

RED LINES:
primary blocking cuts.
BLUE LINES
secondary blocking cuts.
DASH LINES
angled surface edge.
Barre Pinske is a carver in Cheater Vermont and is well known in the carving world for his artistic creativity and “off the
wall” sense of humor.

Barre ‘cooks” his rough outs to control checking. He “burns” the surface with a welding torch, then power brushes to re-
move the char, giving a raised grain effect.

The fnal fnish is automotive paint then “dry brush” technique to emphasize the raised grain.

You can see more of Barre’s work at : http://www.illanajoffrey.com/


6 3 0 3 6

Thin stem down


First Cut when shaping.
3” - 4” deep 12
all around

18
STEP ONE Round all corners STEP TWO

PINSKE SCHROOM
12 x 18 log
EASY PUMPKIN
12” x 18” log

6 3 0 3 6

A pumkin has ten seg-


ments that can vary in size
and shape.

This carving has eight seg-


ments or simplication,
They do not have to be
equal.
0
I have included a “log base”
to make it look more like a
wood carving. The “bark is
done by scoring randomly
with the chainsaw.

The base is a “stain” so that


wood grain shows through.
12
TOP VIEW

5 3 0 3 5

16

24

32
BACK VIEW SIDE VIEW

Turned Head Eagle


10in. log x 27 - 36in.
6 3 0 3 6
0

10

18

23
24

36

GREAT GREY OWL


12inch x 36 inch log

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