THE WOODWORKER

THE WOODWORKER
The Charles H. Hayward Years: 1939-1967
First published by Lost Art Press LLC in 2017
26 Greenbriar Ave., Fort Mitchell, KY 41017, USA
Web: http://lostartpress.com

Title: The Woodworker: The Charles H. Hayward Years, Vol. IV The Shop & Furniture
Publisher: Christopher Schwarz
Editor: Megan Fitzpatrick
Design: Meghan Bates
Copy Editor: Kara Gebhart Uhl
Research: Megan Fitzpatrick, Phil Hirz, Christopher Schwarz
Digitization: Ty Black
Distribution: John Hoffman

Text and images are copyright © 2017 by The Woodworker, MyTime Media

ISBN: 978-0-9978702-2-0
First printing.

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical
means including information storage and retrieval systems without permission in writing
from the publisher, except by a reviewer, who may quote brief passages in a review.

This book was printed and bound in the United States.

 Table of Contents
Foreword to Volume IV vi

Workshop
Workbenches & Workholding 1169
Tool Chests & Storage 1209
Appliances 1247

Furniture & Details

Styles 1277
Projects & Drawings 1335
Miscellaneous Details 1407

Odds & Sods 1443

FOREWORD TO VOLUME IV: THE SHOP & FURNITURE

L IKE the flora and fauna on the

Galapagos Islands, the woodwork-
ing benches, shop accessories and tools
on the islands now known as the United
Kingdom and Republic of Ireland devel-
oped in unusual and surprising ways.
Thanks to a lack of timber, residents
of these islands developed workbenches
that used far less timber than those on
Continental Europe, yet these benches
could perform all the necessary tasks of
a joiner or cabinetmaker thanks to the
engineering of what we now call a tor-
sion box.
Because of their clever engineering,
utility and thrifty nature, these work-
benches migrated to other parts of the
world that were touched (or taken over)
by the British Empire during the 18th,
19th and 20th centuries. So it’s not
unusual to find these islander work-
benches in Canada, the United States
and even occasionally in India.
But workbenches are only the begin-
ning of the story. Consider tool chests.
When you look at old paintings of wood-
workers in Continental Europe, they are
commonly shown storing their tools one
of three ways: hanging on the wall, in a
portable tool tote or in a basket.
For some reason, the residents of the
United Kingdom preferred sizable floor
chests with sliding trays and sometimes
drawers. These chests and trays could be the guilds and woodworking economy far corner of the world to set up shop at
ornately decorated to demonstrate the in the islands encouraged craftsmen to a far-flung destination.
prowess of the maker, or they could be own their own tools that they needed to As a result, tool chests from the United
as plain as a pine coffin. protect (and needed to move with haste Kingdom and Ireland show up through-
Why would this island culture prefer if they were sacked by the boss). out the former holdings of the British
tool chests? I can only hazard a guess. Or perhaps the incredible expansion Empire and (in particular) tend to litter
Perhaps the wet climate encouraged of the British Empire in the 18th and the antique malls of North America.
chests, which absolutely protects tools 19th centuries created a need for its join- (Note: Some Europeans used tool
from the damp (with a little camphor, ers to be able to pack all their tools (and chests, particularly the Dutch and the
in particular). Perhaps the structure of clothes) into a strong box and sail to a Vikings. But it’s fair to say that the

vi The Woodworker: The Charles Hayward Years

Europeans were far more fond of tool British forms were ornate, but take a the deep cultural heritage of his coun-
racks and mobile totes than chests.) look at comparable French pieces to find try’s furniture tradition, yet he was part
And then there are the tools that out what ornate really means.) of the movement to overthrow it after
are peculiarly British, Scottish, Welsh British furniture styles directly World War II (though I don’t know how
or Irish. While almost all the Europe- affected those in North America and enthusiastic he was about this).
ans (with the exception of the Dutch) its other colonies. Americans have a In other words, Hayward and The
still prefer wooden-frame bowsaws, the “Queen Anne” style of furniture because Woodworker in the 20th century were
islanders of the United Kingdom devel- of Queen Anne (1665-1714). But the the distillation of the best of the wood-
oped the familiar handsaws and back- British influence was far deeper. Dan- working tradition from this peculiar
saws we use in North America today. ish Modern – a decidedly European and group of islanders.
The wooden handplanes from this influential movement – drew its influ- And it is for that reason that we have
group of islands have a decidedly differ- ence from British forms, both directly devoted the last 10 years of our lives
ent profile than those of the Continent. and indirectly. to bring you this four-volume set of
And let’s not forget about the infill plane Like traditional British furniture, the best articles from The Woodworker.
– a unique tool form from the United Danish Modern pieces sought structure This final volume is particularly British/
Kingdom (perhaps inspired by the and form over surface ornament. You Irish/Welsh/Scottish in that it explores
Romans, but that’s another story). have only to look at the sketchbook of the workbenches, tool chests and fur-
This list can go on: chisels, mallets, Kaare Klint – the father of Danish Mod- niture forms of these small but hugely
hammers and even nail pullers from the ern – to make this connection. influential island countries.
United Kingdom et al are quite distinct We hope that these volumes will
from those of its neighbors. AND THEN THERE WAS open your mind to the way that these
And if you think that the woodwork- CHARLES H. HAY WARD woodworkers approached their work in
ing influence of the British Empire and It is for all the reasons above that I have the 20th century. You might not agree
its immediate neighbors extended only always loved the work of Charles H. with me that the United Kingdom and
to tools, you’d be wrong. Even furni- Hayward, the dean of workshop writ- Ireland represent the peak of modern
ture design and ornament affected the ers in the 20th century. As editor of The mechanical culture, but at the very least
Empire’s colonies and its neighbors. Woodworker, Hayward was the embodi- you can steal what you will from them
Unlike the French, Germans or resi- ment of the traditional woodworker (as other cultures have) with the help of
dents of the Low Countries, the Brit- from the islands we now call the United these clear and well-illustrated books.
ish, Welsh, Scottish and Irish craftsmen Kingdom and Republic of Ireland. He
were more interested in solid joinery was traditionally trained in shops that Christopher Schwarz
than surface ornament – restraint usu- emphasized handwork, but he was com- Fort Mitchell, Ky.
ally triumphed exuberance. (Yes, some fortable with machines. He embraced January 2017

FOREWORD vii
 WORKSHOP:
WORKBENCHES & WORKHOLDING
The Bench..........................................................1170
Light Bench for Home Use................................1173
A Sturdy Workshop Bench................................1175
Your Bench........................................................1177
The Ideal Bench.................................................1179
Cabinet Workbench for
Kitchen or Workshop........................................1181
The Workshop Bench........................................1185
German Type Work Bench................................1187
Things That Go Wrong:
Your Bench........................................................1190
The Bench and Its Equipment...........................1193
The Bench and Its Equipment (continued)........1197
The Problem of the Loose Bench Stop.............. 1200
Your Bench Vice............................................... 1200
Easily Made Bench Vice................................... 1202
Simple Bench Holdfast..................................... 1203
Workshop Notes:
Gripping the Wood.......................................... 1203
How to Hold Down
Wood Whilst Working It................................. 1205
Fixing Work to the Bench................................ 1207

Chart titles are in italic.

 FITTING UP THE WORKSHOP:
THE BENCH
So much depends upon individual circumstances that to lay down any hard and fast rules
on the way a workshop should be fitted up would be useless. It depends partly upon the type
of workshop one has—whether it is a specially built shed, or just an improvised room in
the house; and upon the sort of thing one makes—small models or large furniture, to take
two extremes. At the same time, there are certain features which experience has shown to be
advisable, and in this series of three articles our contributor endeavours to point out some of
them.

T HE bench is probably the most

important item in the workshop,
and at the outset we may discuss briefly
any features that are specially desirable.
First there is its size. Generally a length of
5ft. is the minimum. Smaller work can
be done on a shorter bench, but when
it comes to making, say, a wardrobe a
fairly large top is essential to enable long
rails and similar parts to be planed up.
Actually a length of 6ft. is more use-
ful still, but unless the workshop is of a
good size it may not be practicable.
For width some 22 ins. is about right,
and this can include a tray in which
small tools can lie. The height of 2ft.
8 ins. is suitable for the average man,
though it can be varied an inch or two
either way. A very tall man, for instance, FIG. 1. OF MEDIUM WEIGHT, THIS BENCH IS IDEAL FOR THE HOME WORKSHOP
might prefer to have a height of 2 ft. 10 The suggested sizes are 5 ft. long by 22 ins. deep, and 32 ins. high, though these could
or 11 ins. to save stooping unnecessarily. be varied within certain limitations. A solid beech top is certainly advisable, and it
should be as thick as possible.
One important feature a bench must
possess is solidity. It must resist all the
stresses to which it is liable to be exposed, of 2 ins. thickness. In any case hard- blows. It is like holding a heavy ham-
and when heavy work such as chopping wood should be used, beech preferably. mer behind a piece of wood whilst a nail
big mortises with chisel and mallet is It is not simply that a thick top is not is being driven in. Its weight resists the
done it must be free from all spring. so likely to bend and spring, but that its blow.
This means that the underframing own weight presents a rigid resistance to The heavy framing is an obvious
must be of stout stuff put together with necessity, but, unless carefully designed,
strong joints, and the top must be thick a great deal of the strength may be
  
and heavy. In good professional benches wasted. It is the front edge of the bench
the top may be as much as 4 or 5 ins. Always stiffen the bench that has to take the greatest strain, and
thick, but, whilst this is an undoubted to resist the thrust when this should be well supported, not only
advantage, it is not essential for the with heavy legs, but also with a thick
man who does just occasional evening
planing wide rail fitted beneath. This will help to
work. We suggest, however, a minimum    make the top more rigid, and its width

1170 The Woodworker: The Charles Hayward Years

Workbenches & Workholding 1171
 If the bolted joint is being used (it can
will stiffen the legs against the inevita- A 5 FT. BENCH be used for front and back rails only if
ble stresses in length caused by such jobs Fig. 1 shows a useful bench which desired as these take the greatest strain),
as planing. At the extreme back the rigid includes the features mentioned. It has stub tenons only are cut as shown in
support is not so essential, and in fact, if a 2 in. top (this could be increased) Fig. 5. The bolt head is recessed into the
there is a tray, it is better to position the with tray at the back, and heavy under- wood, and a hole to take the shank of
top of the legs so that they are under the framing with strong joints. For the last the bolt is bored right through from out-
back edge of the top proper. Stability at named an alternative is given. The stron- side with the tenon cramped temporar-
the bottom can be obtained by splaying ger of the two is the bolted joint which ily in position. About 2-1/2 ins. from the
them backwards. has the additional advantage of tak- shoulder a recess is cut at the underside
In regard to general design, there is ing to pieces enabling the whole to be to enable the nut to be passed upwards
always a temptation for the home wood- stacked away. The wedged tenon, how- opposite the bolt hole.
worker to fit out the lower portion with ever, will make a perfectly strong job – When assembling, the side frames are
cupboards and drawers to hold tools. especially if hardwood is used. put together first. The front and back
From one point of view there is an Fig. 2 gives the main sizes. Note spe- rails then follow, the shelf being slipped
undoubted advantage in this. When cially the wide front top rail. Being in at the same time. The corners of the
the workshop is small, one is glad of the notched over the legs (see Fig. 3) it pre- shelf must be cut to fit around the legs.
space beneath the top to provide accom- vents the bench from racketting from The top front and back rails have grooves
modation for tools. side to side as well as giving good sup- cut across them to fit over the legs, and
As against this a fitted bench is never port to the top just where it is needed. these must be a tight fit. They are held
so successful from the practical point of The back legs are splayed backwards so with screws as in Fig. 3.
view. To take just one example, it often that the bench has ample stability, and The beech top is 2-1/2 ins. short of the
happens that a stand of some kind needs at the same time give direct support to over-all length to enable the 1-1/4 ins.
to be fixed to the bench with the legs the thick top. end pieces to be nailed on. The back of
passing beneath the top. This would be Assuming that the wedged tenon the tray fits between these end pieces,
obviously impossible with a fitted bench. joints are to be used, the two end frames and the bottom is screwed or nailed
The provision of a single drawer and a should be made first, and, to enable on underneath. The stop can be sim-
shelf, of course, is no disadvantage in the exact slope of the shoulders to be ply a piece of hardwood about 2 ins. by
this connection. In fact it should prove obtained, it is advisable to set out the 1-1/2 ins. in section fitting tightly in a
very useful. frame in full size. Allow at least 1/2 hole cut for the purpose. A hole towards
For similar reasons the fixed bench in. extra length at the top so that when the other end should be bored to enable
is generally a mistake. There may be a the wedges are driven in the wood does a bench hold-fast to be fitted. Screws
slight saving in material by fixing it at not split out. Fig. 4 shows the joints in driven upwards from underneath hold
the back to the garage wall, but this is detail. At the top, of course, the tenon the top in position. It can be pocket
more than counterbalanced by its awk- must stand down. screwed at the front, but all other screws
wardness. Consider the position when Whilst marking out the bottom joints are put right through the rails, the holes
a wide table top, or whatever it may be, the front and back rails can be marked. being made full to allow for a certain
has to be planed up. There simply is not Note that these are below the side rails, amount of shrinkage.
room for it on the bench. If, however, a 1/2 in. gap being allowed between so Various kinds of bench screws can be
the bench is movable it is just a matter that the plywood shelf can be inserted. fitted. The metal type is usually used
of pulling it out from the wall, allowing It will be realised that all joints have to nowadays, and is very satisfactory. It
the top to project at the back. One other be squared round, and that about 1/4 in. needs to be cut into the front rail and is
point in the same connection is that the extra at each side has to be allowed, at generally screwed on underneath. It may
top must not have any projections of any the outside to enable the wedges to be need either to be packed up a trifle, or,
kind. Some vices are designed to screw driven in. Remember that in the back in the case of a thick top, to be let in
at the bench edge, and they stand up legs the marks for the mortises have to somewhat. The holes in the right hand
above the top. These are a mistake for a pass through horizontally which means front leg (Fig. 1) are to enable a peg to
permanent bench, because they prevent that the adjustable bevel set to the be knocked in to support long pieces of
a wide piece of wood from lying flat. required angle has to be used. wood when being planed.

1172 The Woodworker: The Charles Hayward Years

 LIGHT BENCH FOR HOME USE

T HIS bench is designed to meet the

requirements of the worker who has
need of a really satisfactory bench at the
tenons passing right through. They are
wedged outside. Note that these rails are
at a different level to those at the ends,
Prior to securing the boards com-
prising the top of the bench it is neces-
sary either to tongue and groove the two
minimum of expense. The timbers used so that the two sets of joints clear each front boards or nail a fillet on the edge of
are common sizes and can be purchased other. the 1-1/2 in. board for the thinner board
already planed at the local timber yard.
A hardwood, beech or birch for prefer-
ence, should be used where indicated.
Much time and labour may be saved by
having the tenons of the leg frames cut
at the saw mills; the mortising, however,
should present no difficulty. As a level
surface is essential for a bench top, the
boards should be free from winding, and
the front board should be not less than
1-1/2 ins. thick so as to provide a firm
surface. The rear boards may be 3/4 in.
thick.
An instantaneous vice has an advan-
tage where time saving is important,
but it is hardly worth while where an
amateur’s bench is concerned. A square
thread metal bench screw will be found
almost as satisfactory. A suitable size is
14 ins. by 1 in. The metal stop shown in
Fig. 5 of the drawings may be purchased
from most tool shops. A less expensive
stop is the wooden form shown in Fig. 4.
The dimensions of the bench will
obviously be determined by the space
available, but the height of the bench
from the floor is important. This should
equal, approximately, the height of the
worker’s hip.
The Main Framework. Assuming
that the leg frames have been prepared
and glued up, the apron pieces B and C
can be housed, as shown in Fig. 3, to fit
over the legs. It is important that this
should be done carefully as the rigidity
of the bench is dependent on the apron
pieces embracing the legs. Before fixing
them the 1-1/8 in. hole for the bench
screw should be drilled and the holes cut
for the runners. The position for these is
shown more particularly in Fig. 7. The
FRONT AND SIDE ELEVATIONS WITH
lower rails are tenoned into the legs, the
CONSTRUCTION DETAILS

Workbenches & Workholding 1173

to rest upon. This is advisable in order to THE BENCH READY
retain a level surface. If a wooden stop FOR USE
The greatest strain
is to be fitted the hole for this should be to which a bench is
mortised before the front board is fixed exposed is in the
in place. The 3/4 in. holes to accommo- direction in which one
date the bolt heads should be drilled planes. It is for this
reason that the extra
prior to drilling the 1/2 in. holes for the wide apron pieces are
shanks. As thinner boards are employed used, as this width
at the rear of the bench these require to prevents any racketing
movement.
be supported by a packing piece nailed
to the top of each leg frame, as shown in
Fig. 8. The boards are screwed to these
packing pieces with 2 in. No. 12 screws,
the holes for the heads being deeply
countersunk. To ensure still further a the position of the fixing screws it will from Figs. 9 and 10.
level surface the top should be cleaned be necessary to leave the securing of the Drawer. The tool drawer shown in the
off with a trying plane. lower side of each casing until they are drawings is useful in enabling the bench
Vice Details. At this stage the bench finally fixed into position. The method to be kept clear of tools not in immedi-
stop can be inserted and the bench put of securing the bench screw is apparent ate use. See Fig. 11.
to use in the preparation of the casings
for the vice runners. The construction
of the casings is shown in Figs. 6 and CUTTING LIST
7. They are made 3 ins. longer than the
Length Wide Thick
bench screw so that if the vice is fully ft. in. in. in.
opened there is no danger of its falling. Top 6 2 9 1 1/2
The runners are made from hardwood 6 2 9 3/4
and should be an easy fit in the casings. 6 2 9 3/4
Probably the most difficult task in the
Leg Frames
whole construction is the accurate bor- 4 Legs 3 0 3 3
ing of the vice cheek for the bench screw 2 Top Rails 2 0 3 3
and the mortising for the tenons of the 2 Bottom Rails 2 6 3 3
2 Bottom Rails 5 2 3 3
runners. 2 Apron Pieces 6 2 9 1

Runner Casings
   2 Tops 1 3 3 1/2
Never saw against the 2 Bottoms
2 Sides
1
1
3
3
3
1 1/8
1/2
1/2
bench stop—use a bench 2 Vice Runners 1 6 1 3/4 1
Vice Check 1 6 1/2 7 1/4 2
hook.
Drawer
  
Front 1 7 8 1/2 1
End 1 7 8 1/2 1/2
2 Sides 1 8 8 1/2 1/2
The runners and the bench screw Bottom 1 8 19 1/4 ply
must be parallel and square with the All lengths and widths are full.
vice cheek otherwise the runners will Thinknesses are net.
bind in the casings and it will be impos- Fittings:
45 ins. by 3/8 in. bolts with nuts and washers.
sible to make the vice close. The bench
16 2 in. No. 12 countersunk screws 24 1 in. No. 8 ditto.
can now be inverted and the casings for 2 2 1/2 in. No. 12 ditto.
the runners screwed into place, packing 4 1 1/2 ins. No. 9 ditto.
being inserted to accurately space the 14 in. by 1 in. bench screw with fittings and screws. 1 flush
handle.
casings in relation to the top. Owing to

1174 The Woodworker: The Charles Hayward Years

 A STURDY WORKSHOP BENCH
Whatever the hobby or craft the necessity for a good bench to work on is of paramount
importance. The examples given have been designed primarily for the woodworker, but with
slight modification can be adapted to suit various needs.

T HE types of bench tops and under-

frames shown here will enable read-
ers to assemble the kind most suitable
for their own requirements. Fig. 1 shows
the well type, a through section of which
is given at (A), Fig. 2. At (B) is a cross-
section of a flat top bench fixed to a sim-
ilar underframe. Most heavy work is car-
ried out on the front portion of a bench,
and this should be sufficiently thick to
absorb shocks, a minimum thickness FIG. 1. THE WELL TYPE
being 1-1/2 in. As the area around the BENCH ON COMPLETION
vice usually becomes worn, the bolting Note dowel holes drilled
through the apron to support
is arranged to allow this section to be long work

FIG. 2. A SHOWS THE WELL TYPE. B, FLAT TOP.

Apart from packing pieces, timber sizes are the same

Workbenches & Workholding 1175

turned over or reversed from end to end an advantage. be well countersunk to avoid possi-
as required, as shown in Fig. 2. Natu- Construction. Prepare the end frame ble damage to work. Finally, the back
rally, the vice and bench stop will need members and tenon the lower rail into board is screwed on. This can be fitted
re-housing with each change and the old the leg about 6 in. from the floor. This out as a tool rack if desired. A suitable
holes made good. can be either wedged or dowelled as in stop, shaped and drilled as in Figs. 2 and
To counteract racking when plan- Fig. 3 (D). The top rail is glued into an 3 can be made from almost any hard-
ing, the apron Fig. 3 (D), is halved and open mortise and secured with a 3/4 wood. Toothed metal stops are obtain-
screwed to the legs. The bottom stretcher in. dowel. It is most important that the able, but these are not recommended as
rail is tenoned in dry and held in position frames are square, and a careful check they often result in damage to tools and
with bolts (see Fig. 3, D). The advantage should be made before setting aside. work.
of this method is that the bench can be When set the stretcher rail is bolted to The Vice. A useful vice for most work
easily dismantled should the occasion the frames, as shown in the sectional is one having an opening of 7 in. with
arise. If the bench is intended to be over view Fig. 3 (D) and apron piece screwed jaws of the same width. This is obtain-
6 ft. in length and subjected to heavy in place. Nail down all necessary pack- able with a plain screw action or quick
usage the more rigid form of underframe ing pieces before securing the top. release as shown in Fig. 4. Whichever
given in Fig. 3 (C) is recommended. A Bolt heads should be sunk about type is chosen, it is advisable to recess
great deal of labour is saved if timber be 1/4 in. below the surface and the hole the back jaw and screw on a hardwood
bought cut to size. An underframe of 3 plugged; similarly all screw heads should check to fit flush with the apron piece.
in. by 3 in. or 4 in. by 2 in. stuff is quite
reliable with a bench top, as in Fig. 2. A
bench having a total length from 5 ft.
to 6 ft. should suit most needs, but if a
greater length is contemplated a thicker
top is recommended. The width shown
in Fig. 2 is 2 ft. However, if space per-
mits this to be made wider it will prove

FIG. 3. HEAVY DUTY FRAME C, AND COLLAPSIBLE TYPE D

In all cases the bench stop is placed outside the frame to
ensure easy adjustment

1176 The Woodworker: The Charles Hayward Years

 CUTTING LIST

Length Wide Thick

ft. in. in. in.
4 Legs 2 9 3 3
4 Rails 2 2 3 3
1 Stretcher Rail 5 0 3 3
1 Apron Piece 6 0 9 1
1 Board (Beech) 6 0 11 1 1/2
3 Boards (Deal) 6 0 7 3/4
1 Bench Stop 0 12 2 1 1/2

As it is recommended that all timber be bought panned

to size, finished sizes have been given. Add 1/2 in. to the
length and 1/4 in. to width if bought rough. Metal fittings
are obtainable from most ironmongers.

One of the examples given in Fig. 4 would be quite satisfac-

tory. Before cutting an opening in the apron piece it is sug-
gested that a cardboard template be made to ascertain exactly
where the aperture should be made. When the opening has
been made and the vice placed in position, coach screws or
bolts are inserted to hold it as in Fig. 4.
A series of holes drilled through the apron level with the
FIG. 4. FIXING THE VICE THE THROUGH SECTIONS vice screw into which short pieces of dowelling can be inserted
SHOW HOW THE VICE IS ATTACHED TO THE BENCH will prove beneficial when planing long pieces and will sup-
AND METHODS OF ENCLOSING THE BACK CHECK port the work.

YOUR BENCH
To do good work orderliness is essential. Tools not in immediate use should not litter the
bench, but should be kept in a rack or cupboard. As it is useful to have the cupboard near at
hand the space under the bench can be usefully employed for the purpose if suitably enclosed.
It is important, however, that a bench should be rigid, especially in its length, and the fitting
of a cupboard should not adversely affect this rigidity. In the bench described, the apron pieces
A, on which the longitudinal rigidity of the bench depends, are retained, but the front apron
is cut away in order to give greater access to the cupboard.

T HE leg frames are formed of 3 in.

by 3 in. stuff, but 4 in. by 2 in.
will do equally well. The construction
each side rail. This arrangement provides
for the fixing of the floor of the cup-
board. If the joints are carefully made no
apron pieces, which are correspondingly
housed in order to form a half-lap joint.
The Bench Top. This comprises three
of the frames is shown in Fig. 3, and further strengthening by the use of bolts 9 in. boards, and it will be seen on refer-
it will be noted that the lower end rails or dowels is necessary. When the frames ring to Fig. 2 that the front board is
are arranged so that the lower surface of have been put together they can be cut thicker than the other two. This board
each rail is flush with the top surface of away as shown at b. Fig. 3, to receive the should not be less than 1-1/2 ins. thick,

Workbenches & Workholding 1177

 mortises for the vice runners should be
made. In fixing the position of these
holes, the thickness of the front top
board should be taken into account.
The apron pieces are screwed to the
leg frames, the heads of the screws being
deeply countersunk. If the bench is to be
fitted with a wooden stop, the hole for
this fitting should be made prior to the
fixing of the bench top.
Vice Details. The vice cheek should
be made of a hardwood—beech or birch
for preference. Tenoned into the check
are runners e which should also be made
of a hardwood. The runners slide freely
in the casings which are screwed to the
IDEAL FORM OF BENCH FOR THE HOME WOODWORKER. underside of the bench top. Consider-
This makes a good rigid bench and gives excellent accommodation for able care should be exersized in fitting
tools in the cupboard beneath. Sizes are 5 ft. long, 2 ft. 3 ins., deep, 2 ft. the casings otherwise the runners will
9 ins. high.

whilst the other boards can be 3/4 in.

This construction saves expense, but at
the same time ensures that a firm sur-
face is provided towards the front of the
bench, where most of the work is done.
The middle board should either be
tongued into the front board or be sup-
ported on a fillet nailed to the back edge
of the front board. Before securing the
top to the leg frames, it will be neces-
sary to nail packing pieces, one on each
leg frame, in order to make up the dif-
ference in thickness of the front and
rear boards comprising the top. The top
may be either bolted or screwed to the
leg frames, the heads of the bolts being
recessed. If screws are used the heads
should be deeply countersunk.
Apron Pieces. These comprise 9 ins.
by 7/8 in. boards. They are housed to fit
over the legs as shown in Fig. 4, so that
a flush surface is obtained at the front
and rear of the bench. With regard to
the front apron piece, the worker will
probably find it easier to form the recess
by preparing a piece of stuff 4-1/2 ins.
wide and gluing two pieces c and d to
the lower edge. Before assembling the
front apron piece a 1-1/8 in. hole should
be bored for the bench screw, also the FRONT ELEVATION, SIDE SECTION, AND GENERAL DETAILS OF CONSTRUCTION

1178 The Woodworker: The Charles Hayward Years

tend to bend when the vice is in use. The upper end of upright j is lapped into but if this is not procurable the doors
Referring to Fig. 5, it will be seen that the front apron piece as shown by dotted can be framed. The stiles and rails are
the casings are spaced from the bench lines in Fig. 1. The upright k is carried stub-tenoned together as shown in Fig.
top by blocks f and g. The blocks f are up to the underside of the bench and is 7. After the doors are put together they
made slightly thicker than the blocks g nailed to the rear apron piece. are ploughed at the top and bottom in
in order to allow for the difference in The floor of the cupboard at the left- order that they may slide on the guides
thickness of the bench top. In fixing the hand end is supported by a rail l, and n, Figs. 2 and 3. It will be found nec-
casings the covers h should be fixed last at the front and rear by fillets m. At the essary to provide a strip o so that suffi-
of all; this will enable the fixing screws right-hand end the floor can be nailed cient width is available for the fixing of
to be screwed through from under- to the underside of the rail of the end the top guide.
neath. Obviously the heads of the screws frame. Other fillets are arranged as It may happen that a piece of work to
should be well countersunk. shown in Figs. 3 and 6, for the attach- be held in the vice is of such a shape that
The Cupboard. In order to provide a ment of the cupboard sides and back. it projects inward at its lower end. It is
support for the end i of the cupboard, Birch plywood, 3/16 in. thick, should therefore inadvisable to include in the
also the back, it is necessary to provide prove satisfactory for the sides and back, cupboard space that part of the bench
uprights j and k, Fig. 6. The upright j whilst 1/4 in. plywood should serve for immediately below the vice. A hole
is flush with the inside of the near rail. the floor. should be bored through the top at the
The lower joints of these uprights will be Undoubtedly, 3/4 in. ply would be tail to enable a holdfast to be used.
apparent from Fig. 6 of the drawings. the most suitable material for the doors,

THE IDEAL BENCH

The man who contemplates making a bench to take the place of an improvised work table
cannot do better than that shown in Fig. 1. It is the finest type of bench ever evolved, and is
a real joy to use. The provision of several stops at the front of the bench and one movable with
the tail vice enables work of different size to be readily clamped. The tail vice also provides
greater rigidity as, for example, when work is being sawn in the vice. The well is useful in
that it is not necessary to clear the bench of the smaller tools during work. It should be just
deep enough for small tools to lie below the surface of the bench.

I F you have not the material by you at

present to make this bench it is well
worth keeping the design by you for use
intended to serve as a guide.
Material. A hardwood such as beech
or birch should be used for the vice jaws
tenoning into its associated rail in order
that the tail vice runner (d) shall not be
obstructed. The longitudinal rails (e and
in happier times. and other parts subject to wear. f ) are furnished with long tenons which
Dimensions. The height is probably The rest can be made from good qual- are wedged to the legs.
the most important consideration, and ity deal. If it is decided to follow the The mortise for each wedge should be
you can decide this in accordance with dimensions given, standard metal vice so positioned that the wedge will clamp
your own height. In practice 2 ft. 6 ins. is screws should be used. The employment the leg tightly against the shoulder of
the minimum, and it could be increased of wood bench screws will require some the rail tenon. Allowance should also be
by 2 ins. or even 3 ins. for extra tall modification in design. made for future tightening. The mem-
men. The other sizes can be decided by Construction. The four legs are ten- ber (b), after notching for the stops, is
the timber available. The planing board oned into the top and bottom rails, the glued and screwed to the planing board.
(a) however should not be less than 1-1/2 latter also serving as feet. Leg (c) adja- It will be noted that the member (b) and
ins. thick. The dimensions given are cent the tail vice, will require stub also the planing board is cut away at the

Workbenches & Workholding 1179

tail end in order to receive the front jaw
of the tail vice.
The well bottom board (g) is tongued
and grooved into the planing board. The
end members (h and i) are also tongued
and grooved into the ends of the bench
top. As the member (i) also serves as a
vice jaw, it is similar in depth to the tail
vice, but is reduced towards the rear. At
its front end it is notched to receive the
tail vice runner. In order that the front
vice jaws should be similar in size and
also to provide for the bench screw, it
is necessary to pack up the member
(b) as shown at (j). Each vice runner
is fitted with a guide (k and l) respec-
tively. When screwing the guides in
place, a slip of veneer can be temporar-
ily inserted between each runner and its
guide in order to space the parts and pre-
vent the runners binding.
The top is secured to the leg frames FIG. 1. BENCH WITH TWO VICES, MULTI-STOP POSITIONS AND TOOL TRAY
by bolts through the planing board, the The tail vice is specially useful for holding work of any length still whilst being worked.
It comes in handy also for cramping up doors, etc. Length can be anything from 4 ft.
heads being well recessed, and by screws upwards.
through the well bottom.
A wood stop has the advantage that
there is no danger of inadvertently

FIG. 2. FRONT AND END

ELEVATIONS, PLAN, AND
ENLARGED SECTION
Sizes and details may have to be
adapted in accordance with the
materials available.

1180 The Woodworker: The Charles Hayward Years

 FIG. 3. BENCH TURNED
scarring the plane iron by acciden-
UPSIDE DOWN SHOWING tal contact with the stop. The stops for
HEAD VICE AND DRAWER the bench described should be made of
hardwood. They should be made a tight
fit in the notches and square hole in the
tail vice jaw, and made sufficiently long
so that they may be knocked up from
under the bench.
If a drawer is to be fitted, it will be
necessary to arrange the grooves in the
drawer runners so that the drawer will
slide freely and clear of the front mem-
ber (b).

FIG. 4. (RIGHT) HOW THE TAIL     

VICE IS FITTED
Note how the stand is made with
wedged joints.

CABINET WORKBENCH FOR

KITCHEN OR WORKSHOP
Many home craftsmen today are obliged to use whatever means are available to serve as
a bench, and those who have a room for their especial use can count themselves as being
fortunate. If the Work has to be done in a living-room or kitchen there is little space for a
bench proper, and its strictly utilitarian appearance is out of place. But, if the Workbench
is made as an article of furniture, this objection is no longer valid. It can then be used for
storing tools or even as a sideboard, the top, of course being specially made to serve as a bench.

I N the cabinet workbench shown in

Figs. 1 and 2 the lid is made suffi-
ciently deep to accommodate handsaws,
from a wall so that the lid, when opened,
is inclined backwards. It is advisable,
however, to provide the two buttons
the back legs and securing the plywood
back in the rebate, other fixings being
obtained by pinning to the back frame
since these tools take up considerable shown to prevent any accidental falling members. As the bench top must absorb
space. It is impracticable permanently to forward of the lid. blows during work, it should not be less
fix a vice, but this difficulty can be over- General Features of Construction. than 1-1/2 in. thick—at least, the front
come by using a small vice (Fig. 3). This The cabinet will have to be of rather board of the top should be this thick-
can be easily removed when the bench more sturdy construction than is cus- ness. The board or boards towards the
is not required for use and stowed in tomary, since such operations as planing back can be thinner. The front of the
one of the drawers. A shelf is shown, but will tend to rack it. Therefore the legs cabinet should obviously be flush with-
this could be superseded by racks for the and bottom rails should not be less than out protruding knobs or handles.
chisels, etc. 1-7/8 in. square, or formed from stuff Dimensions and Materials. Suit-
It is intended that the cabinet work- equivalent in cross section. The neces- able sizes are indicated in Fig. 4,
bench should be placed slightly away sary rigidity will be helped by rebating but these can be varied according to

Workbenches & Workholding 1181

 FIG. 1. THE WORKBENCH CLOSED AS A PIECE OF
FURNITURE FIG. 2. BENCH WITH LID OPENED AND VICE FIXED
This gives a good idea of how attractive the bench looks when The arrangements for holding tools can be adapted to suit
work is not in progress. If possible a hardwood should be used your own kit
for show parts and those subjected to wear

requirements. The height given for the other and also enables a good fixing to upright (E) is rebated, the partition oth-
bench top is about right for a worker of be made. erwise being pinned to the face of mem-
average height. If possible, a hardwood The guides (D) fit into the space bers (F and G) and kicker (H). The top
such as oak should be used for the car- between the runners and the panels and rails (I) are dovetailed into the top of the
case, but the bench top should be made are glued and pinned to the runners legs (Fig. 8). In ploughing the legs for
of deal for the purpose previously given. before assembly.
Construction of Carcase. The rails The division between the rest of draw-
(A, Figs. 5 and 6) are ploughed on their ers and the cupboard is shown in Fig.
back edges to receive a short tenon on 7. In order to hide the edge of the ply-
one end on each of the drawer runners wood partition from the front, the
(B), the other end of each runner being
half-lapped into the back rails (C).
This construction is a little more elab-
orate than usual, but it ensures that cor-
responding runners are level with each

FIG. 3 (LEFT). THE 6 IN.

VICE SUITABLE FOR THE
BENCH FIG. 4. FRONT AND SIDE ELEVATIONS WITH MAIN DIMENSIONS

1182 The Woodworker: The Charles Hayward Years

 FIG. 6. BACK VIEW SHOWING SET-IN OF RAILS
FIG. 5. CUT-AWAY VIEW SHOWING CONSTRUCTION

the end panels the groove can be contin- is bored to take the guides and screw of well to make up a hardwood cheek for
ued through the entire length of each leg the vice and is glued and pinned into the other vice jaw.
and filled in where the legs are exposed place. As this piece of stuff also serves as Bench Top. As allowance should
below the bottom rails. one of the vice jaws, it is necessary that it be made for shrinkage, it is advisable to
Fitting the Vice. This must be fixed should be hardwood. secure it to the top rails (I) by means of
so that it does not interfere with the lid’s In order that the top of the vice buttons (Figs. 10 and 12). Alternatively,
closing down and hiding the edge of the should be level with the bench top, it is the fixing can be effected by screws
bench top. It is therefore necessary to fix necessary to cut away the latter as shown through the rails (I), which are slotted
the inner cheek of the vice to a piece of in Fig. 4. The rigid fixing of the vice is to receive the screws. If buttons are used,
stuff that is the counterpart of one of the effected by a packing piece (Fig. 9) fixed they should not project below the lower
fronts of the side drawers (Fig. 9). This to the underside of the bench top. It is as surface of the rails, otherwise they will
interfere with the opening of the larger
drawer. The hanging rail (J) for the lid
must be securely fixed. It therefore proj-
ects below the level of the bench in order
that a fixing can be obtained to the legs
as well as the back edge of the bench top,
and also to take the thrust when the lid
is lifted.
Lid. The side and ends are mitred
FIG. 8. HOW TOP RAILS ARE
together and glue blocks inserted in the
JOINTED TO LEGS corners (Figs. 10 and 11). These blocks
are of such length that when the lid is
closed down, it rests upon them so that
it hides the edge of the bench. It is as
well slightly to bevel the back edges of
the ends to assure that the weight of the
FIG. 7. DIVISION lid is taken by the blocks and no thrust
SECTION
is exerted on the hanging rail. The top
is secured by screws inserted obliquely
FIG. 9. SECTION THROUGH
through the side and ends.
VISE Assembly. The upright (E) is fixed to
the bottom front rail and stop housed

Workbenches & Workholding 1183

into the front top rail (I). The upper fixing the top on the CUTTING LIST
drawer rail (A) is then glued in place, cupboard side do not
being half-lapped to the upright (E). obstruct the drawer. Length Wide Thick
The front legs can now be attached and It is also better to fix ft. in. ft./in. in.
the short drawer rails pushed in from the vice at this stage.
the back, these being stop housed into It will be found 4 Legs 2 9 1 7/8 1 7/8
2 Bottom Rails 4 0 1 7/8 1 7/8
the left-hand leg and the upright (E). At more satisfactory to 2 Bottom End Rails 1 10 1 7/8 1 7/8
this stage, the panel forming the inner hang the lid to the (I) 2 Top Rails 4 0 1 7/8 3/4
vice cheek can be fitted and glued and hanging rail prior (I) 2 Top End Rails 1 10 1 7/8 3/4
(A) 1 Drawer Rails 4 0 1 7/8 3/4
pinned in place. The back frame can be to attaching the lat-
1 Back Rail 4 0 1 7/8 3/4
assembled in the same order, but in this ter, as it will then be (E) 1 Upright 2 6 1 7/8 3/4
case the back rails are lapped into the easier to ensure that (F) 1 Upright 2 6 1 7/8 9/16
upright (F) and secured to the adjacent the lid is level and is (A) 2 Drawer Rails 1 2 1 7/8 3/4
(C) 2 Bearers 1 2 1 7/8 3/4
leg by bare-faced tenons. positioned so as to (B) 8 Runners 1 8 1 1/2 3/4
On the completion of the assembly clear the edges of the (D) 8 Guides 1 6 1 1/8 3/8
of the front and rear frames, the front bench top. The holes (G) 1 Rail 1 10 1 7/8 3/4
(H) 1 Rail 1 10 1 7/8 3/4
frame is laid flat and the bottom end for the fixing screws 1 Vice Panel 1 1 9 3/4
rails fixed and the runners and kickers in the hanging rail 2 Panels (plywood) 2 6 1 7 1/4
placed in position. This done, the back will have previously 1 Back 3 11 2 6 3/16
1 Cupboard
frame is brought up and the end panels been bored.
Bottom (plywood) 2 10 1 8 1/4
inserted, these being retained by fixing Drawers and 1 Drawer Front 2 9 7 5/8
the top end rails (I). Before fixing the Doors. It is not con- 2 Drawer Sides 1 9 7 3/8
cupboard bottom, and also the shelf, it sidered necessary to 1 Drawer End 2 9 7 3/8
1 Drawer Bottom
is as well to attach the bench top, since describe their con- (plywood) 2 9 1 9 3/16
by so doing, more space will be avail- struction as this is 3 Drawer Fronts 1 1 7 5/8
able for handling the screwdriver. Care normal. 6 Drawer Sides 1 9 7 3/8
6 Drawer Ends 1 1 7 3/8
should be taken to see that the buttons 3 Drawer Bottoms
(plywood) 1 1 1 9 3/16
1 Partition 2 6 1 9 3/16
1 Bench Top 4 2 1 10 1 1/2
Boards to make up width given
1 Hanging Rail 4 2 6 3/4
1 Top 4 3 1 10 5/8
Boards to make up width given
1 Front 4 2 4 5/8
2 Ends 1 11 4 5/8
4 Door Stiles 1 10 2 3/4
4 Rails 1 4 2 3/4
2 Panels (plywood) 1 6 1 1 3/16
1 Shelf (plywood) 2 9 1 8 3/8
Small Parts Extra
FIG. 10. HOW LID COVERS EDGE
Note- Widths and thicknesses are net; lengths are full.
OF BENCH TOP

FIG. 12. HINGEING OF LID

FIG. 11. SECTION
ON A-A

1184 The Woodworker: The Charles Hayward Years