Hand & power tools

Supporting:

MSFFM2001: Use furniture making

hand and power tools

edit

Learner guide

INTAR K&B Project 2015

 Hand and power tools – Learner guide

Hand and
power tools
Learner guide

This Learner guide is part of a suite of resources developed for learners undertaking the MSF31113
Certificate III in Cabinet Making (Kitchens and Bathrooms). Its purpose is to help apprentices and other
workers to acquire the background knowledge needed to satisfy the theoretical components of the
competencies covered. It is not designed to replace the practical training necessary to develop the
hands-on skills required.

E-learning version

All of the content material contained in this Learner guide is also available in an e-learning format,
which has additional photos, interactive exercises and a voice-over narration of the text. The e-learning
version can be viewed on the web at: www.intar.com.au

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 Hand and power tools – Learner guide

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 Hand and power tools – Learner guide

ISBN: 978-1-925087-26-0

Copyright
Parts of this resource are based on material developed by Workspace Training for the original Flooring
Technology Project, produced in 2011-2014 for the Workplace English Language and Literacy (WELL)
Program.
The original WELL project was funded by the Commonwealth Government, which owns the copyright to
that material under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 Australia Licence.
This original resource is freely accessible to all web users, and can be viewed on-line on the Industry
Network Training and Assessment Resources (INTAR) website at: www.intar.com.au.
Copyright in all new text, photographs and graphics is owned by McElvenny Ware Pty Ltd, trading as
Workspace Training. This work was funded by INTAR. All enquiries should be addressed to:
David McElvenny
Workspace Training
PO Box 1954 Strawberry Hills, NSW, 2012
Email: david@workspacetraining.com.au

Disclaimer
The content of this resource is provided for educational purposes only. No claim is made as to its
accuracy or authenticity. The authors, copyright owners and INTAR do not give any warranty nor accept
any liability in relation to the information presented in this work.
In all cases, users should consult the original source documents before relying on any information
presented in the resource. These source documents include manufacturers’ installation guides,
Australian Standards, codes of practice and other materials produced by specialist industry bodies and
government agencies.

About INTAR
Industry Network Training and Assessment Resources (INTAR) is a partnership owned by Workspace
Training and Vaughan Consulting Software Solutions – the development team that produced the
original Flooring Technology project for the Commonwealth Government WELL Program.
INTAR was formed to enable the development work to continue, following the abolition of the WELL
Program in 2014. All new materials are now paid for by subscribers and members who contribute to the
INTAR funding pool. Access to the subscription site is via a password protected area.
Members of INTAR include TAFE teachers, RTO trainers, manufacturers and other suppliers of industry
products and services.
In addition to learner guides, workbooks and on-line materials, INTAR also provides members with the
following resources and services:
• nationally validated assessment tools for all competencies covered in the learning materials
• participation in the validation groups that meet to validate assessment tools and strategies
• forums for direct consultation with manufacturers, employers and other industry personnel
• evidence of the continuous improvement, validation and consultation processes, suitable for use in
demonstrating compliance with the Standards for RTOs 2015.

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Acknowledgements
The INTAR project team comprises the following people:
David McElvenny (Workspace Training) – lead writer and project manager
Kath Ware (Workspace Training) – instructional designer and graphic artist
Jim Vaughan (VCSS) – technical developer and programmer
Alex Vaughan (VCSS) – assistant programmer and voice-over narrator
Giselle Mawer (Giselle Mawer and Associates) – quality assurance consultant and auditor.

To see the full list of people involved in the Technical Advisory Group for the original WELL Program
Kitchen and Bathroom Cabinetmaking project, please go to the INTAR website and follow the links.

Photos and graphics

Most graphics were drawn by Kath Ware. Many of these are based on line drawings or photographs
provided by manufacturers.
Site plans and other CAD drawings were provided by manufacturers.
Photos were taken by David McElvenny

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Table of contents
Introduction .............................................................................................................. 1

Section 1 Types of tools .......................................................................................... 3

Overview .............................................................................................................. 5

Measuring and setting out.................................................................................... 7

Hammering and nailing ...................................................................................... 10

Drilling and screwing .......................................................................................... 12

Planing and sanding .......................................................................................... 14

Cutting, chiselling and routing ............................................................................ 17

Storage and maintenance .................................................................................. 20

Sharpening cutting edges .................................................................................. 23

Assignment 1 ..................................................................................................... 27

Section 2 Power sources ....................................................................................... 29

Overview ............................................................................................................ 31

Electricity ........................................................................................................... 32

Compressed air.................................................................................................. 36

Other power sources.......................................................................................... 40

Assignment 2 ..................................................................................................... 42

Section 3 Safe operating procedures ................................................................... 43

Overview ............................................................................................................ 45

General safety.................................................................................................... 46

Drill operation ..................................................................................................... 48

Jigsaw operation ................................................................................................ 50

Planer operation................................................................................................. 51

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Circular saw operation ....................................................................................... 53

Nail gun operation .............................................................................................. 55

Assignment 3 ..................................................................................................... 57

Practical demonstrations ............................................ Error! Bookmark not defined.

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Introduction

Hand-held tools are like extensions to

your own body.

They allow you to 'feel' the material

you're working with and monitor the
performance of the tool through
sensations such as resistance to
movement, changes in smoothness,
and the pull in one direction or
another.

This unit will provide you with an

overview of the hand and power tools
used by kitchen and bathroom
cabinetmakers and the safe operating
procedures that apply to using power tools.

Note that we won’t go into detail on how to use some of the more traditional
woodworking tools, such as spoke shaves, hand planes and rasps. These
techniques will be covered in other units from your cabinetmaking trade course that
deal with joining and shaping solid timber furniture components. However, we will
look briefly at the wide range of tools used by cabinetmakers in the first section of
this unit.

Working through this unit

There are three sections in this unit:

• Types of tools
• Power sources
• Safe operating procedures.

Each section contains an Overview, an Assignment and Lessons which cover the
content material.

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Assignments
Your trainer may ask you to submit the assignments as part of your assessment
evidence for the unit. You will find hard-copy templates for these assignments in the
separate workbook.

Electronic ‘Word’ templates of the assignments are available on the website for this
resource, at: www.intar.com.au

Learning activities
Each of the lessons has a learning activity at the end. The Workbook for this unit
contains all of the learning activities together with spaces for written answers.

Again, you will find the learning activities on the website version, together with some
interactive ‘Just for fun’ exercises.

Practical demonstrations

Your final assessment of competency in this unit will include various practical
demonstrations. To help you get ready for these hands-on assessment activities, see
the sample checklist shown in the Practical demonstrations section at the back of
this Learner guide.

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Section 1
Types of tools

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Overview

There’s a huge variety of hand and

power tools available to cabinetmakers,
often with different designs for each type
of tool.

Sometimes you can get away with using

a tool that isn't quite right, but gets the
job done anyway.

However, it's always best to make the

effort to get the exact tool you need,
especially if you're doing a certain job
over and over again.

The right tool for the job not only makes

it easier and quicker to get the task
done properly, it also greatly reduces
the chance of something going wrong or
someone getting hurt.

In this section, we’ll look at the hand-held tools commonly used by cabinetmakers.
As a kitchen and bathroom specialist, you may not need all of these tools,
particularly if you only work with manufactured board products. But it’s still important
to know what the full range of tools are, because there may be times when you come
across a trickly situation that is best handled with a specialised tool.

We’ll also cover the basic set-out and measuring tools used on-site for installing
kitchen and bathroom cabinets.

Working through this section

The assignment for this section will ask you to describe a range of
hand tools that you use at work. Have a look at Assignment 1 on
page 27 to see what you’ll need to do to complete it.

There are seven lessons in this section:

• Measuring and setting out
• Hammering and nailing
• Drilling and screwing
• Planing and sanding

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• Cutting, chiselling and routing

• Storage and maintenance
• Sharpening cutting edges.

These lessons will provide you with background information relevant to the
assignment.

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Measuring and setting out

Cabinetmakers use a variety of

measuring and setting-out tools when
they’re making cabinets in the workshop.

Some of these tools, like tape measures

and squares, are also used on-site when
the units are being installed.

There are various other tools you can

also use on-site to measure lengths,
check levels and mark set-out lines.

Below are the main items used in the

workshop and on-site for these
purposes.

Measuring lengths and dimensions

Tape measure – for Steel rule – very rugged, Folding rule – not so
general measuring tasks, good for fine popular these days, but
such as marking lines, measurements, also able still sometimes used by
checking dimensions and to be used as a straight carpenters.
site measure-ups. edge.

Vernier caliper – used for Laser distance meter –

measuring thicknesses measures lengths digitally
and diameters very with a laser beam.
precisely.

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Setting out angles

The most common hand-held tools used to set out angles are:

Carpenter’s square – Combination square – Bevel – lets you set any

used to draw or check allows you to set out 900 angle you like.
right angles, and also to and 450 angles.
set out other angles.

Protractor – like a bevel, Electronic angle finder –

but has the degrees provides a digital readout
marked in an arc. of the angle formed by the
arms.

Checking and marking levels

Spirit level – uses a Laser level – for

bubble to show whether a projecting level and plumb
line or surface is level lines on walls.
(perfectly horizontal) or
plumb (perfectly vertical).

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Checking and marking straight lines

Straight edge – for Chalk line – for marking

checking flatness and set-out lines across a floor
drawing long straight lines. or along a wall.

Learning activity
Are there other tools that you use for measuring or setting out
that aren’t shown here?

Write down their names, and briefly describe what they’re used
for.

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Hammering and nailing

Cabinetmakers have a range of

hammers and mallets to choose from
when they need to insert a fastener, tap
something into position, or use with a
chisel.

There are also various power tools that

can be used for some of these tasks,
particularly for driving in nails and
staples.

Below is the general range of hammers,

mallets and nail and staple guns.

Hammers and mallets

Claw hammer – has a flat Warrington hammer – has

head on one side for driving a standard flat head on one
nails and tapping items, and side, and a ‘cross pein’ on
a claw on the other side for the other side to start a
withdrawing nails. small nail or brad without
hitting your fingers.

Ball pein hammer – has a Mallet – for tapping

standard flat head on one woodworking chisels.
side and a ‘ball pein’ on the
other, used for beating
metal and other functions.

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Nail guns and staple guns

Nail gun – used to fire Staple gun – used to fire Powder actuated gun
nails into timber and staples, particularly when (e.g. ‘Hilti’ and ‘Ramset’
wood-based panels, such fixing panels to the backs gun) – used to fire
as particleboard, plywood of cabinets. fasteners into concrete
and MDF. and steel with an
explosive charge.

Learning activity

What sorts of hammers do you use at work?

Name each type of hammer, mallet or gun, and briefly describe

what tasks you use it for.

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Drilling and screwing

Modern kitchen and bathroom cabinet

construction involves a lot of drilling and
fastening with screws.

In the workshop, most of the holes are

produced by static machines while the
components are being manufactured.

But out at the jobsite, you’ll have to drill

all of the holes yourself with a hand-held
drill.

You’ll also use a cordless drill constantly to insert screws. And for more delicate jobs
and adjustments of hardware items, you’ll need a set of screwdrivers. Below are the
main items of equipment used for drilling and screwing.

Screwdrivers

Phillips head screwdriver – for Flat head screwdriver – for

inserting and removing screws, inserting and removing screws,
and turning adjustment screws and turning adjustment screws
that have a Phillips head. that have a ‘slot’ head.

Electric drills

Cordless drill – for use as a Hammer drill – for drilling larger

powered Phillips head holes on the ‘normal’ setting and
screwdriver, and for drilling small drilling holes in masonry on the
holes. ‘hammer’ setting.

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Learning activity
The most common screw heads you’re likely to come across are
Phillips and slot head. But there are other types of screw heads.

Can you name any of these more specialised screw heads?

Write down the names in your workbook. For each one you
identify, provide a brief description of where that type of screw is
used.

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Planing and sanding

Hand planes have been used for

centuries by woodworkers to remove
surface layers of timber.

There are many specialised variations of

the hand plane, including spoke shaves
and cabinet scrapers, although these are
rarely used by kitchen and bathroom
cabinetmakers.

These days, you’re much more likely to

use an electric plane for planing solid
timber and wood-based panels, and a
sander for smoothing timber surfaces.

Nonetheless, there may still be times when you’ll find that a hand plane is the best
tool for a tricky job – like the fellow shown in the photo on the Introduction page of
this unit. You might also use a block and sandpaper for small touch-up jobs, and a
rasp or file to finish off edges, particularly on veneered or melamine faced boards.

Set out below are the main tools used for planing, sanding, filing and rasping. Some
of these, such as the spokeshave and scraper, will only be found in a traditional
cabinetmaker’s toolkit, but they are still used by some specialist craftspeople.

Planing tools

Electric planer – for Hand plane – for Spokeshave – for

removing surface material removing surface material shaping round or curved
from solid timber and by pushing the blade components (traditionally
panel products with along the surface by hand. used for shaping wooden
rotating cutters. wheel spokes).

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Sanding

Belt sander – for sanding Orbital sander – for use

timber surfaces with a when a belt sander is too
sanding belt. awkward, or a finer finish
is required.

Sandpaper and block – Scraper – for finishing

for touching up small benchtops and other high
areas or sanding puttied quality timber surfaces by
nail holes by hand. scraping the surface
rather than sanding it.

Rasps and files

Rasp – for shaping wood, Rasp plane – a heavy File – for removing burrs
such as rounding the duty rasp that’s used with and overhangs in timber,
corners of timber a plane action. metal, plastic and
benchtops. composite materials.

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Learning activity
Sandpaper comes in a variety of ‘grit’ sizes, using numbers to
refer to the coarseness of the abrading material.

Coarser grits are used when you need to remove a lot of material
quickly. Finer grits are used when you’re finishing off the surface
in preparation for a paint or clear coating.

Do you know what some of the common grit sizes are for different grades of
sandpaper? Write down a typical coarse, medium and fine grit size that might be
used for sanding a timber benchtop.

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Cutting, chiselling and routing

Some tools use a saw blade with teeth

to cut materials. The blade could be
circular or straight, depending on the
cutting action of the tool.

Other tools use a wide flat blade with a

sharp edge to do the cutting. These
include knives and chisels.

A router is in between, with a small

circular router bit that has a rotating
cutting action.

Set out below are the main types of saws, chisels and routers you’ll come across in
your kitchen and bathroom work.

Hand-powered saws

Handsaw – for cutting Hacksaw – for cutting

timber and wood-based metal, plastic and
panels. composite materials.

Chisels and knives

Firmer chisel – for Bevelled edge chisel – Mortise chisel – for

general purpose use, also for general work, but chopping mortises
suitable for tapping with a better for getting into (recesses) with a mallet
hammer or mallet. corners because of the and levering out material.
bevelled edges.

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Paring chisel – for Utility knife – for trimming

‘paring’ back the surface melamine edges, glue
of timber and panel lines and general cutting
products by hand. work.

Power tools

Angle grinder – for Jigsaw – for cutting Circular saw – for cutting
cutting and grinding panels and timber to a straight lines in timber and
masonry and steel. profiled shape. panels.

Drop saw – for cross- Router – for cutting Multi tool – for cutting
cutting timber and board grooves and rebates in under door jambs and in
products to length. timber and board other awkward areas.
products.

Biscuit joiner – for cutting

slots in the edges of
material to be joined with
‘biscuits’.

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Learning activity
We’ve said above that a router is designed to cut grooves and
rebates. What’s the difference between a groove and a rebate?

Go to you workbook and do a simple line drawing of each one.

Put a label under each drawing.

We’ve also said that a biscuit joiner is used to cut slots (known as ‘mouths’) in the
corresponding edges of two pieces of material that are to be joined together.

Do you know what a biscuit looks like? Draw one in your workbook and label it. If you
haven’t seen one before, ask your trainer for more information, or look it up on the
web.

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Storage and maintenance

Professional installers need to be able

to rely on their tools when they’re out at
a jobsite.

Missing attachments, blunt blades or

malfunctioning parts can be very
disruptive to an efficient installation, and
very frustrating to the installer – not to
mention other team members who might
be left waiting.

The good news is that most of these

problems are entirely avoidable if you
look after your tools and carry spare
parts with you.

It’s also important to buy high quality tools and replacement parts, so you can have
the confidence that they’ll do the job you expect of them each time you pick up the
tool.

Below are some general suggestions on looking after tools and equipment.

General hints

Don’t leave tools lying around on the floor.

Put them back in your toolbox or in a
designated area when you’ve finished using
them.

This will not only keep them away from dust

and sources of damage, it will also reduce the
chance of someone else packing them up into
their own toolbox.

Protect the cutting edges of saws, chisels,

and other cutting tools.

Lay hand planes on their side and put plastic

caps on chisel blades when you’ve finished
using them.

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Keep delicate tools in their own bag or carry

case.

Sensitive measuring devices and other tools

that could be affected by dust or moisture
should only be left out while you’re actually
using them.

Store loose items and spare parts in their

own containers.

These may include blades, bolts, screws,

pin heads, probes and specialised
attachments.

Lubricate moving parts and clean out any

excess dust as required.

Don’t wait until parts start to seize up or air

filters get blocked. The manufacturer’s
manual for each tool will have a checklist and
a recommended schedule for carrying out
general maintenance procedures.

Put a tag on any tools that are malfunctioning.

This especially applies to power tools. The

tag could say ‘Do not use’ or ‘For repair’ or
something like that.

Then take the tool to your supervisor or an

authorised maintenance person so they can
attend to the problem.

Never put faulty power tools away for

someone else to pick up and use – at the very
least it will be annoying for them when they
find the tool doesn’t work, and at worst it
could be very dangerous.

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Learning activity
Do you have responsibility for carrying out any specific
maintenance procedures on the tools you use at work?

For example, your job might include being responsible for

cleaning out vacuum cleaners and filters, or replacing blunt
blades on cutting tools, or doing routine maintenance on
machines that need to be oiled or cleaned.

List each tool that you are personally responsible for and briefly state what sort of
maintenance procedures you carry out.

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Sharpening cutting edges

Cutting edges don’t stay sharp forever.

In fact, tools that are designed to be

razor sharp – such as knives and
chisels – tend to go blunt very quickly
while you’re using them, especially if
you’re cutting hard materials.

In the case of utility knives, you can

simply replace the blade once the edge
goes dull.

But chisels need to be rubbed up on an oilstone – or 'honed' – regularly. In some

cases you may need to do this several times in a single work session. The same
applies to the blade (called the 'iron') in a hand plane. Some tradespeople also like to
sharpen their own electric planer cutters. But many people find it easier to send them
to a professional sharpening service, or simply replace them with a new set.

Note that plywood and particleboard will dull sharp blades more quickly than solid
timber, because the glue in these manufactured boards is harder than the wood
fibres.

Below is the general procedure for sharpening chisels. The same process applies to
hand plane irons. Also below are some hints on how to sharpen drill bits, since they
too will need touching up from time to time.

Chisels

There are two important angles at the sharp

end of a chisel – the grinding angle and the
sharpening angle.

The grinding angle is formed on a grinding

wheel. It should be between 25° to 30° from
the face of the chisel blade.

The sharpening angle is between 30° to

35°. This is the angle that gives you a sharp
cutting edge, so it’s the one you must
maintain by ‘honing’ the chisel regularly on
an oilstone.

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If you’re cutting softwood or doing very delicate work, keep the angle closer to 30°,
because that will give you a sharper blade. But for harder materials, an angle closer
to 35° is better, because the edge is less brittle, so it’s less likely to break away while
you’re cutting.

Honing

Here’s how to hone a chisel:

1. Spread a small amount of oil on an

oilstone.

2. Put the back of the chisel blade flat on

the stone and rub it back and forth to
clean it and take out any burrs.

3. Turn the chisel over and raise it to the

point where the grinding surface is flat
against the surface of the stone.

Then lift the chisel up slightly further to

find the sharpening angle.

4. Rub the chisel in a figure-eight pattern

on the stone to hone it.

A tiny burr will form on the back of the

blade at the edge, called a ‘wire edge’.

5. Turn the blade over and hold the back

flat against the stone.

Rub the blade back and forth to remove

the wire edge.

6. If the blade is not sharp or the wire edge has not fully come away, repeat steps 3
and 4, using a few strokes only, until you achieve a sharp edge.

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Grinding

After repeated sharpenings, the angle of the

sharpening bevel will start to increase as the end
gets progressively shorter. Eventually, you’ll need
to regrind the chisel to get back to a full-length 25°
flat surface.

When you’re grinding the chisel, be very careful to

avoid overheating the edge, because this will
cause the steel to lose its strength or ‘temper’. Cool
the edge frequently by dipping it in water.

The video clips referenced in the learning activity

below shows the procedures used to grind and
hone a chisel.

Drill bits

Like chisels, drill bits will lose their edge at different rates, depending on what
materials you’re working with. Metals, manufactured boards and surface laminates
will all take their toll on the cutting edges of a drill bit.

There are various machines and jigs designed for sharpening drill bits. Some of
these are quite cheap and available in any hardware store. But many tradespeople
like to sharpen their own drill bits by hand, using either a grinding wheel or hand file.

The equipment and technique you use will

depend on the type of drill bit you’re
sharpening.

For kitchen and bathroom cabinetmaking,

you’ll probably use a twist drill most of the
time for small holes and a spade bit for larger
ones. There may also be times when you use
an auger or brad point.

Follow the links in the learning activity below for more information on how to sharpen
each of these types of drill bits.

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Learning activity
Below are some links to web pages and YouTube video clips
showing how to sharpen chisels and drill bits. We’ll concentrate
on the procedures used to hone a chisel on an oilstone and grind
a twist drill on a bench grinder. These are the two skills you’re
most likely to use in your day-to-day work.

Also below are references to web pages and video clips showing other procedures
relating to sharpening chisels and drill bits. These are for your own general interest.
You’ll find many other video clips on YouTube – just type in phrases like: ‘How to
sharpen a wood chisel’, or ‘How to sharpen a drill bit’.

Honing a chisel on an oilstone

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1F5aSs2ureQ

Watch the video clip and then answer the following questions:
• What sharpening angle does the demonstrator use for his honing?
• How does he remove the wire edge?

Sharpening a twist drill

http://woodgears.ca/drill/sharpen.html

Have a look at the photos and read the text beside each photo. Then scroll down to
the video clip and watch it. Answer the following question:
• What is wrong with ‘sweeping the edge too far back’ when you turn the drill bit
while grinding it on the grinding wheel? That is, what will it do to the cutting
edge?

More information

For a demonstration on how to grind a chisel on a bench grinder, go to:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Hm4HiN2Lww

For details on how to sharpen auger, spade and brad point bits, go to:
http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Tools/Sharpening/9_Sharpening_Drill_Bit
s/9_Sharpening_Drill_Bits.htm

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Assignment 1

Choose three hand tools you use at work that don’t require a power source other
than your own muscles. (Note that we will cover power-operated tools separately in
Assignment 3.)

For each tool, provide the following information:

1. What type of tool is it?

2. Who is the manufacturer and what is the brand name of the tool?

3. What is its main purpose?

4. What secondary functions does the tool have (if any)? That is, does the tool
have any other features, attachments or uses?

5. What personal protective equipment should you wear when you are using the
tool (if any)? For example, do you need to wear safety glasses, gloves, dust
mask, etc. If you only need to wear PPE for certain types of jobs, state the item
of PPE and briefly describe when it would be required.

6. Does the tool have any fragile or delicate parts that need to be protected? If so,
how do you protect them, and how do you carry the tool to the jobsite?

7. Does the tool have any parts that are designed to wear out and be replaced on a
regular basis? For example, you may need to carry spare blades, cutters, tips,
etc. What are these replacement parts, and how do you carry them with you to
the jobsite?

8. Do you need to carry any other equipment or maintenance item to the site to
keep the tool operational? For example, do you need to have a sharpening
stone, oil, grease or other item in your toolbox to keep it working properly?

9. What checks do you need to carry out before you use the tool? These may
include safety checks, adjustments, inspections on the sharpness of blades,
tightening of screws, etc.

10. What are the main things that can go wrong with the tool? For each problem you
state, briefly describe how you would fix it, or whether the problem would mean
that the tool must be put in for repair or thrown out.

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Section 2
Power
sources

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Overview

Hand-held tools use a wide range of

energy sources.

The most common forms of energy are

mains electricity, rechargeable battery,
and of course, good old fashioned
muscle power.

However, there are times when other

power sources are used – generally
because you’re either using a
specialised tool or you’re on-site and the
mains power hasn’t yet been connected.

In this section, we’ll look at the main types of energy used to drive hand-held power
tools. We won’t go into muscle power, because the issues relating to ‘manual
handling’ and physical exertion have already been covered in other units.

Completing this section

The assignment for this section will ask you to compare two tools
that are powered by different energy sources, but are designed to
do the same job.

Have a look at Assignment 2 on page 42 to see what you’ll need

to do to complete it.

There are also three lessons in this section:

• Electricity
• Compressed air
• Other power sources.

These lessons will provide you with background information relevant to the
assignment.

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Electricity

The two most common sources of

electricity for power tools are mains
electricity and rechargeable battery.

Note that heavy industrial machines

generally run on 415 volt power, also
called ‘three-phase’ power.

However, they use a different type of

power plug and socket and are not
produced in the hand-held range of
power tools.

Mains electricity

Some people refer to mains electricity as ‘240 volt

power’, because that’s the voltage that comes out
of a standard power point.

Standard power points are designed to take two-pin

or three-pin plugs. One pin connects to the active
or live wire. The opposing pin connects to the
neutral wire, which completes the circuit.

The bottom pin has no role in delivering electricity,

but connects the tool to the earth wire as a safety
mechanism, in case there is a malfunction or 'short
circuit'.

Power circuits are always protected either by a fuse or circuit breaker. If the system
is overloaded or a fault develops, the fuse is designed to blow, or the circuit breaker
to trip, which cuts off the power supply.

There are two main systems of insulation used in power tools:

• Single insulated tools use an earth wire which is connected to the metal casing
of the tool at one end and the earth pin of the plug at the other end. In the event
of a fault that causes a short circuit, the current is able to flow straight to earth
without giving the operator an electric shock.
• Double insulated tools use two layers of insulation between the internal parts
that carry a current and the outer metal parts of the body. For this reason, they
are not connected to an earth wire.

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Rechargeable battery

As rechargeable batteries continue to

improve in performance and power output, an
increasing variety of ‘cordless’ tools are
coming onto the market, including jigsaws,
circular saws, planers, and even chainsaws.

However, by far the most common cordless

power tool is the drill. This is because most
drills are smaller and consume less power
than the other types of tools, so their
rechargeable batteries are lightweight and
relatively cheap.

Always remember to pack the battery charger when you take cordless tools to the
jobsite. It’s also a good idea to take two batteries, so you can leave one on ‘charge’
while the other is in the tool.

Safety with mains power

Mains power is used everywhere, but that doesn't mean you should take its safety
for granted. Every year people are hospitalised as a result of electric shock, and
occasionally the shocks prove fatal.

Electrical faults are also responsible for many

fires, because the sparks from short circuits
or the heat from overloaded wires can ignite
flammable substances or materials.

The first rule when using power tools is to

make sure the electrical cable is in good
condition.

Check that the insulation is sound and there

are no exposed wires at the plug end or the
other end where it enters the tool.

The second rule is to avoid using electrical tools in wet conditions. If it has been
raining, or you're in a wet area, only use the tool if:
• your hands are dry
• the tool is completely dry
• you are wearing rubber soled boots and standing on a dry surface
• electrical leads and connections are clear of damp ground.

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Testing and tagging

It is a WorkCover requirement that all power

tools used at work are tested and tagged every
three months by an authorised person. The test
is designed to ensure that the tools are safe and
not likely to cause a fire or electric shock.

Once a piece of equipment has been tested and

passed, the authorised person attaches a tag to
it, stating their name or company they work for
and the test date.

If you pick up a power tool and find that the tag is out of date, make sure you take it
straight to the person responsible for getting it tested.

Setting up extension leads

If the power source is not close to the area you're working in, you may need to run
an extension lead some distance. Always make the effort to keep extension leads
safe, because they can be a serious hazard to your own team as well as other
workers on-site if you don't.

Here's some tips on using extension leads safely:

• Fully unwind a long lead before you use it.

Leads that are left coiled up can generate a lot
of heat when there's a current passing through
them.

• Check the plugs at each end to make sure that

the wires aren't starting to pull out. If the plugs
or lead are not in good condition, tag it and take
it straight back to your supervisor for repairs.

• Never pull a plug out of a socket by tugging on

the lead. Always hold the body of the plug when
you remove it.

• Keep leads clear of wet patches on the ground

or floor. This especially applies to any joins in
leads.

• As a rule of thumb, use leads rated at a

minimum of 10 amps for power tools, and 15
amps or more for large machines.

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• Try to keep the lead as short as possible for the job you're doing. The longer a
lead is, the higher the voltage drop will be from one end to the other, so the
higher its amp rating will need to be.

• Don't drape leads across walkways, access-ways or vehicle paths. If there is no

alternative to running a lead across a thoroughfare, make sure the lead is very
obvious, and either protect it from vehicle and pedestrian traffic or put it
overhead.

Learning activity

Write up a list of the hand-held electric tools you regularly use,

naming their brand and power source (mains power or battery).

Also state the size of the tool if you know it. Note that the size is
generally expressed in terms of the attachment that does the
actual work – such as blade diameter, cutter length or drill bit
diameter.

Here are some examples of how the size might be described:

Drill: 10 mm (3/8 inch) referring to the maximum diameter drill

bit that can be put into the chuck

Circular saw: 115 mm (4 1/2 inch) the diameter of the blade

Electric planer: 75 mm (3 inch) the width of the cutters

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Compressed air

Workshops and factories commonly use

compressed air to drive power tools.

For the on-site installer, it’s less

convenient because you need to take
your own compressor with you, which in
turn would still have to be powered by an
electric, petrol or diesel motor.

However, it is a very useful power source

when you’re using a gun for nailing,
stapling or spraying.

It’s also handy when the jobsite doesn’t have mains power connected and you
already own a petrol-operated compressor.

Tools driven by compressed air are called

pneumatic tools.

They tend to be more efficient and lighter

than equivalent tools powered by mains
electricity, because they do away with the
need for an electric motor inside the tool.

The compressor itself has a pump which

compresses air from the atmosphere.

A receiver, or storage tank, holds the

compressed air, and an automatic pressure
regulator keeps it at the correct pressure by
switching the pump on and off.

If the pressure gets too high, air is released

through a safety valve.

Air supply

The volume of air that a compressor can supply is called free air delivery, and is
generally measured in terms of litres per minute (L/min). This is what determines
how many tools can be run at any one time from the compressor and what types of
tools it is suitable for.

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Another important specification is the

operating pressure range. This is
measured in kilopascals (kPa) or
sometimes pounds per square inch (psi).

Different tools operate best at certain

pressures, so the operating pressure
needs to be checked and re-adjusted if
it's found to be incorrect for a particular
tool.

It's a good rule to use the minimum pressure required for the tool to operate properly.
This will help the compressor to use less power, and there'll be less wear on the tool.

If you're using a nail or staple gun, it will also reduce the chance of the fasteners
countersinking too far and damaging the surface of the material you’re firing into.

Routine maintenance for air compressors

Depending on the type of air compressor you're using and the tools you're working
with, there will be some routine maintenance procedures that should be followed at
certain times. Your supervisor will tell you what your specific tasks are, but here are
a few typical examples.

• Air filters should be cleaned at regular intervals.

If the compressor has a filter bowl, it should be
drained each day.

• Some tools need to have oil drops added directly to

the air intake before the hose is connected each
day, to lubricate the moving parts inside.

• Condensation that has occurred inside the receiver

should be drained at least once a week, or more
often depending on the operating conditions and
model of compressor. Many workplaces open the
drain valve at the end of the week and let the
receiver drain over the weekend.

• If the compressor uses a petrol or diesel pump, the oil level in the motor will
need to be checked regularly.

• The safety valve should be checked periodically by lifting the plunger, allowing
air to escape, and then making sure that it re-seals properly when it's re-seated.

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Special safety precautions

Although compressed air is safer than electricity in some respects, it has other
hazards that can be just as dangerous. Below are a few safety guidelines you should
follow when using compressed air.

• Always wear safety glasses when using

compressed air. This includes blowing out tools or
cleaning down work areas with an air hose.

The air will cause particles to fly in all directions at

high speed.

• Never point a stream of compressed air directly at

anyone's body, particularly bare skin.

Many people have suffered ruptured ear drums, eye

injuries, skin blisters and burst blood vessels from
either cleaning themselves down with compressed
air, or playing practical jokes with it.

• Make sure you secure the loose end of an air

hose before turning on the air, to stop it from
whipping around when it takes up pressure.

Learning activity
Is there an air compressor in the building where you are right
now? You might have it on-site with you, or in the college
workshop, or at the warehouse where you’re working.

If you don’t have a compressor nearby, look up a typical example

on the web. Choose a size that you would be likely to use at
work.

Answer the following questions in your workbook. You should be able to find the
answers on the machine itself or in the specifications listed on the website.

If you get stuck on any questions, ask your trainer or supervisor for more information.
They may also be able to show you the manufacturer’s manual for the machine.

1. What brand is the compressor?

2. What is the cubic capacity of the receiver?

3. Is the pump diesel, petrol or electric?

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4. What is the free air delivery rating (in litres per minute)?

5. What type of air filter does it use?

If you’re looking at the compressor right now and it’s in operation, also answer the
following questions:

6. What operating pressure is it set at?

7. How many hoses branch off it?

8. What types of equipment is it running?

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Other power sources

Some specialised tools use power sources

other than electricity or compressed air.

This particularly applies to nail guns used

on-site, which are sometimes powered by an
in-built gas canister or a small explosive
powder cartridge.

Let’s look at each of these specialised items

in turn.

Gas-powered guns

Nail guns powered by gas have a combustion

chamber that works like a tiny car engine.

When the chamber behind the piston fills with

gas and is ignited by a spark plug, the small
explosion pushes the piston forward and
drives a nail into the material.

In addition to the gas cylinder needed to

supply the gas, these types of guns also carry
a rechargeable battery to fire the
spark plug.

Gas-powered guns have replaced pneumatic guns for many carpenters and other
on-site workers, because they don’t require an external air compressor. This does
away with the problem of having air hoses draped across the work area and causing
a trip hazard.

Powder-actuated guns

Powder-actuated (PA) tools are designed to

fire fasteners into concrete, steel and other
hard materials.

They use the same principle as a firearm,

with a small explosive charge placed behind
the projectile.

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In the case of a PA gun used by a kitchen and bathroom installer, the projectile is
most likely to be a hardened steel nail, or ‘drive pin’. You might use these nails to fix
battens to concrete or brickwork.

Tradespeople generally call powder-actuated tools by their brand name, which is

why you’ll often hear them called ‘Hilti guns’ or ‘Ramset guns’.

In the past, they were all manufactured as

high velocity tools, where the explosive
charge acts directly on the fastener.

However, more modern versions use a piston

to drive the fastener, allowing a more efficient
low velocity charge to propel the piston.

The high velocity tools are potentially more

hazardous than the low velocity ones, and
require greater care when you’re using them.

But bear in mind that all powder-actuated guns are potentially dangerous, which is
why there are special safety precautions that apply to their use, especially on a
jobsite with other workers around. You also need to be properly trained and
assessed before you are allowed to use the gun unsupervised.

Learning activity
The following link will take you to a video clip produced by
Ramset Australia which describes the difference between high
velocity and low velocity powder actuated fasteners. Watch the
clip and then answer the questions below.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MD-yAjSPgwU
• What is a ‘power load’?
• Why is it important to select the correct power load for the material you’re
fastening into?

To see a more comprehensive 15 minute version of the above video clip, go to the
following link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fXgLsHsZNI

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Assignment 2

Choose two power tools from your workplace that both have the same function but
are powered by different energy sources. For example, you may have two drills –
one running on mains electricity and the other on battery. You might even have a drill
that's driven by compressed air.

Answer the following questions:

1. What type of tool are they? State the category of tool your two selections belong
to, such as: circular saw, drill, planer, etc.

2. What are the two power sources for these tools? These may include: mains
electricity, compressed air, rechargeable battery or gas.

3. Who is the manufacturer (or manufacturers, if they are made by different

companies)? That is, what are their brand names?

4. What size is each tool? Describe the size in terms of their drill bit diameter, blade
diameter, cutter length, nail length, etc.

5. What are the power ratings? State the power ratings in terms of wattage,
operating pressure, etc.

6. What are the main advantages of each tool? List the advantages, particularly in
comparison to the other tool you have selected.

7. What are the main disadvantages of each tool? List the main disadvantages,
again with particular reference to the other tool.

To get yourself started on the advantages and disadvantages, evaluate the two tools
in terms of the following criteria: safety, convenience, portability, overall life
expectancy and strength of the tool. Add any other points that you think are relevant.

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Section 3
Safe
operating
procedures

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Overview

Power tools are generally much faster

and more powerful than simple hand
tools.

But they have several hazards that don’t

apply to hand tools, so you need to take
extra care when you’re using them.

In this section, we'll discuss the safe

operating procedures for a range of
common power tools.

We’ll start with a general summary, and then look individually at some of the tools
you’re likely to use on-site. Remember, though, that every manufacturer will have
their own operating procedures for the tools they produce, so you should always
consult the operator’s manual for detailed advice on how to use a specific tool.

Completing this section

The assignment for this section will ask you to select three power
tools that you use at work and describe their characteristics.

Have a look at Assignment 3 on page 57 to see what you’ll need

to do to complete it.

There are also six lessons in this section:

• General safety
• Drill operation
• Jigsaw operation
• Planer operation
• Circular saw operation
• Nail gun operation.

These lessons will provide you with background information relevant to the
assignment.

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General safety

Set out below are some basic principles

for using power tools safely.

Although they can be applied generally

to all tools, there are specific references
to tools that have a rotary action and are
powered by electricity.

This makes these principles particularly

applicable to tools such as circular saws,
drills and planers.

Basic safety procedures

1. Wear the correct personal protective equipment

for the job at hand. This will generally include
safety glasses, ear muffs and steel capped boots.

Depending on the job, it might also include a dust

mask, gloves and maybe specialised safety gear,
such as a full face shield. Remove any loose
clothing or jewellery, and tie back long hair.

2. Keep cutting edges sharp. Inspect the saw blade,

drill bit or planer cutters before you plug in the
tool, and make sure that they are in good
condition, properly fitted and sharp.

3. Make sure that the guards are in place and

correctly adjusted, and that spring-loaded
mechanisms or other moving parts are working
normally.

4. Secure the material firmly before you start the job. This could mean using a G-
clamp or bench vice or some other clamping system.

5. Always allow the motor to reach normal operating speed before letting the tool
come into contact with the job. This helps to avoid the problem of 'kickback', and
of overloading the motor.

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6. Listen to the sound of the motor when you start up

the tool and while you're operating it.

If you hear any unusual sounds, stop the tool,

unplug it, and look for the problem.

If you can't fix it on the spot, tag the tool and take
it to your supervisor or maintenance person for
servicing.

7. Keep the work area clear of off-cuts, sawdust and

rubbish that might get in the way.

Don’t let off-cuts and rubbish build up under your feet. It can pose a serious trip
hazard, especially if you’re concentrating on the work and not paying attention to
where your feet are positioned.

By tidying up as you go, you’ll also make the general clean-up at the end of the
job much easier. This will help you to sort out which pieces can be recycled or
used again and which items need to go straight into the waste bin.

Learning activity
Point 5 above refers to the problem of ‘kickback’ in power tools.
This happens when the blade or cutter is allowed to contact the
material to be cut before the motor has had a chance to reach full
speed.

What exactly is kickback? See if you can describe it in words.

If you’re working with a partner, try to come up with an explanation together. Use
your workbook to write down your answer.

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Drill operation

Hand-held drills range from small cordless

versions to large hammer drills. As a kitchen
and bathroom cabinetmaker, there will be
times when you’ll need both.

A variable-speed cordless drill is best for

driving Phillips head screws and drilling small
holes in timber and other non-masonry
materials.

However, if you’re drilling holes in concrete or

brick, you’ll need to use a hammer drill with a
masonry drill bit.

Hammer drills have a ‘hammer’ and a

‘normal’ setting. It is possible to buy good
quality cordless hammer drills, but in general
they’re not as powerful as an equivalent-
sized 240 volt drill.

Basic operating procedure

1. Secure the material that needs to be drilled. Insert the drill bit into the chuck and
tighten it. If you’re using a chuck key, make sure you take the key out before
starting the drill.

2. Push the drill bit into the surface of the material. If the material is metal, it’s best
to centre-punch a small indentation into the surface first, so that the tip of the drill
bit doesn’t skid off the mark when it starts to turn.

3. Start up the drill and push down firmly. In general, use slower speeds for hard
materials.

4. While you’re drilling, pull the drill back periodically to clear the waste material
from the hole and drill bit. This will help to stop the drill bit from jamming or
overheating.

5. On larger drills use both hands to hold the drill, with one hand on the side
handle, to avoid the problem of the drill suddenly flicking back in the opposite
direction if the bit gets jammed.

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6. On deep holes, pay constant attention to the angle you’re holding the drill at, so
you don’t start to change the direction of the hole while you’re drilling. Keep the
drill bit turning until you withdraw it from the hole.

Learning activity
Different types of drill bits are used for drilling different materials
and hole sizes.

See if you can name the type of bit used to drill the following
holes. Write your answers in your workbook.

• 6 mm hole in a piece of timber

• 32 mm hole in a sheet of plywood
• 12 mm hole in a concrete slab.

If you’re not familiar with the drill bits used for these purposes, ask your trainer or
supervisor to show you examples. You can also look them up on the web.

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Jigsaw operation

Cabinetmakers use jigsaws when they need to cut

a profiled or curved shape into a board, such as
masonite, plywood, MDF, or timber.

You can also use them to cut aluminium and

plastic trims if you fit the correct blade and use the
right setting.

Basic operating procedure

1. Select the correct blade for the material to be cut. Set the saw to the correct
speed. In general, higher speeds are used for timber, and lower speeds for
metal. Secure the material to be cut.

2. Place the front of the base plate on the material, without the blade touching the
work. Check that the base plate is sitting flat on the surface. Start up the saw
and let it reach full speed.

3. Begin to cut, keeping the base plate flat on the work at all times. Push the saw
smoothly and at a steady pace through the material. Let the saw do the work –
don’t force the blade through faster than it wants to go.

4. When cutting curves, ease off slightly with pressure and speed to allow the blade
to adjust to the changing direction.

5. Finish the cut at full speed and then release the trigger. Allow the blade to stop
before putting the saw down.

Learning activity
Jigsaw blades vary in terms of their shape, tooth profile, number
of teeth and the type of metal they’re made from. The differences
are designed to make certain blades more suitable cut cutting
particular materials.

Do some research on the different blades available for your own jigsaw, or the one
you’re using in your training session.

What materials are they designed to cut? Write down the main distinguishing
features of the different blades. If you’re studying this unit by distance learning, you
can also take photos of the blades and match up your descriptions with the photos.

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Planer operation

Electric planers are good for reducing the

thickness of timber or tapering the width of a
panel or bench top.

Note that if you’re planing an existing timber

floor, always double-check that there are no
hidden nails, screws or other hard objects
that might hit the cutters. If the cutters strike
anything hard while they’re turning, it can
damage them in an instant.

In general, be extremely careful while the planer

is running. The cutters are unguarded, and will
cut anything that comes into contact with them –
timber, floor coverings, clothing, fingers and
anything else.

Before you put the planer down, make sure the

cutters have stopped turning.

Always disconnect the planer from the power

source before clearing out shavings or checking
the cutters.

You can either lay it on its side, or put it on a soft material that won’t damage the
cutters. Remember, the cutters are razor sharp, which makes the edge quite fragile if
it is bumped against hard surfaces.

Basic operating procedure

1. Secure the material to be planed so it can’t move. Set the cutting depth of the
planer by sitting it on the work and adjusting the knob.

2. Position your feet so you’re in a comfortable balanced position. Make sure the
power lead is out of the way of the planer path. You can put the lead over your
shoulder if you think it might get in the way.

3. Rest the front of the base plate on the job and check that it is sitting flat on the
surface. Keep the cutters clear of the work – check that they’re clear by sliding
the planer forward until you feel the cutters touch the work, and then pulling it
back slightly.

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4. Start the planer and allow it to reach full speed before commencing the cut.

5. Push the planer smoothly forward with an even motion, in the direction of the
grain. Be particularly careful to hold the planer flat against the work at the start
and finish of the cut and not let it dip at either end.

6. At the end of each sweep along the material, lift the planer off the work before
you take your finger off the trigger.

If you’re planing the end grain of timber, it’s best to work from both sides to avoid
chip-out of the grain. This includes the underside of doors, which often have vertical
‘stiles’ on each side and a ‘bottom rail’ in between.

Learning activity
Point 5 above says you should plane in the direction of the grain.
Note that this applies to solid timber, such as the tongue and
grooved timber floor boards. It’s not an issue when you’re planing
particleboard, plywood, MDF or other materials that don’t have a
distinctive grain direction.

What would happen if you planed solid timber against the grain? That is, what would
the finished surface look like?

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Circular saw operation

Hand-held circular saws are generally simply

called ‘power saws’.

They are used to cross-cut timber, rip timber

lengthwise and cut wood-based panel
products.

Note that they are only designed to cut in a

straight line – if you need to cut a profiled
shape, such as around a doorjamb or
architrave, you should use a jigsaw.

Most power saws run on mains electricity. However, it is possible to buy good quality
cordless saws, although they are less powerful than an equivalent-sized 240 volt
saw. You can also buy air-operated saws, but they are not as convenient for on-site
use.

Like electric planers, circular saws have extra hazards because they’re designed to
cut at high speed. So many of the same precautions apply, including always being
sure that the tool is disconnected from the power source before you check the blade,
clear jams or make adjustments.

Unlike an electric planer, you don’t need to wait

until the saw has stopped turning before you
put it down, because the spring-loaded guard
will flick back into place when you remove the
saw from the work.

But this means you have an additional safety

check to carry out – always make sure the
guard is moving freely and springing back to its
correct position before connecting the saw to
the power supply.

Basic operating procedure

1. Secure the material to be cut so it can’t move. Draw a line to mark the cut. If the
off-cut that will be produced is large or heavy, check that it is well supported so it
can’t fall or pull away and damage the good piece when you finish the cut.

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2. Check the saw blade for damaged or blunt teeth. Check that the spring-loaded
guard is working properly. Adjust the saw to the required depth and angle. If
you’re using a straightedge to guide the saw, clamp it into position.

3. Plug the saw into the power supply. Make sure the power lead is clear of the
path of the cut – put it over your shoulder if you think it might get in the way.
Position your feet so you’re in a comfortable balanced position.

4. Rest the front of the base plate on the material to be cut and check that it is
sitting flat on the surface. Keep the blade clear of the work.

5. Start the saw and allow it to reach full speed before commencing the cut. Push
the saw smoothly forward with an even motion. Make sure the saw stays straight
– don’t twist the blade in the cut.

6. Keep the saw straight as you leave the cut and don’t release the trigger until the
blade is clear of the material. Check that the guard has sprung back into place
before placing the saw on the floor.

Learning activity

Point 1 above talks about the importance of securing the material

you’re about to cut, and making sure any large offcuts will be well-
supported before you start cutting.

How would you go about securing the following two pieces of

work? Write your answers down in your workbook. You can use a
drawing for each one to illustrate your answer if you wish.

1. A long length of solid timber skirting board (say 4.8 m long), to be cut in the
middle.

2. A 2400 x 1200 sheet of plywood, to be cut back to 1800 x 1200.

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Nail gun operation

Nail guns and staple guns are designed to

fire fasteners into timber or wood-based
products. The most common power sources
are compressed air and gas.

Set out below are the basic procedures for

using a pneumatic gun.

Basic operating procedure

1. Make sure the gun is disconnected from the air supply and check that the
moving parts and magazine are free from loose particles, dust build-up and
anything else that might cause a jam.

2. Load the magazine with nails or staples.

Connect the air supply to the tool.

3. Push the nose into the work to allow the safety mechanism to depress.

4. Pull the trigger to fire the gun.

In general, keep the following safety considerations in

mind whenever you’re using a nail or staple gun:
• Always keep your free hand away from the
discharge area while you’re firing.
• Don’t fire fasteners into knots or unsound timber.
• Don’t fire fasteners at a sharp angle or too close
to edge of the material.
• Never fire towards yourself or in the direction of
other people.
• Always disconnect the gun from the air supply
before carrying out maintenance, clearing a jam,
or handing the gun to another person.

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Learning activity
The basic operating procedure described above refers to a
trigger action called ‘single shot mode’.

In this action, you need to push the nose into the work to let the
safety mechanism depress and then pull the trigger to fire the
gun. To fire a second nail, you must go through the whole
process again.

Some guns have two operating modes – ‘single shot’ and ‘bump fire’. When the
bump fire action is selected, you can keep the trigger depressed and simply bump
the nose of the gun onto the work each time you want to fire a nail. Bump fire is
handy for jobs where you need to fire many nails in quick succession.

What do you think would be the extra safety problems associated with bump fire
mode? How would this affect the way you use the gun, or position yourself before
you start firing?

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Assignment 3

Choose three hand-held power tools you use at work. Do not include either of the
tools you selected for Assignment 2. In preference, select tools you will be using for
your practical demonstration assessment activities in this unit.

For each tool, answer the following questions:

1. What type of tool is it?

2. Who is the manufacturer and what is the brand name of the tool?

3. What is its main purpose?

4. What personal protective equipment should you wear when you’re using the
tool? For example, do you need to wear ear muffs, safety glasses, dust mask,
etc. If you only need to wear PPE for certain types of jobs, state the item of PPE
and briefly describe when it would be required.

5. Specify the attachment or item of hardware on the tool that does the actual work
– that is, the drilling, cutting, welding, fastening, heating etc. Preferably, describe
the attachments you’ll be using for your practical assessment activity, if they are
different from the one that’s normally fitted to the tool.

6. What checks do you need to carry out before you use the tool? These may
include adjustments, calibrations, safety checks, inspections of wear and tear,
etc.

7. What routine maintenance procedures are required to keep the tool in good
condition? Describe the maintenance procedures, including when they should be
carried out, e.g. after each use, weekly, monthly, etc.

8. What are the main problems that would cause you to tag-out the tool and have it
discarded or put in for repair? Describe the sorts of things that would make you
think the tool was not safe to use. These could relate to unusual sounds, smells,
loose parts, damaged parts, etc.

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Practical demonstration
The checklist below sets out the sorts of things your trainer will be looking for when
you undertake the practical demonstrations for this unit. Make sure you talk to your
trainer or supervisor about any of the details that you don’t understand, or aren’t
ready to demonstrate, before the assessment event is organised. This will give you
time to get the hang of the tasks you will need to perform, so that you’ll feel more
confident when the time comes to be assessed.
When you are able to tick all of the YES boxes below you will be ready to carry out
the practical demonstration component of this unit.

General performance evidence YES

1. Follow all relevant WHS laws and regulations, and company policies

and procedures

2. Identify tools and their functions, and select the correct tools for the

job

3. Recognise different sources of power supply 

4. Check that tools are operating properly and safely 

5. Correct faults within level of authority, or take tools to authorised


person for repair

6. Select appropriate equipment for holding down or supporting


materials

7. Secure material firmly before starting work with hand or power tools 

8. Wear appropriate PPE for the job being undertaken 

9. Operate tools safely and efficiently, and keep them secure when not

in use

10. Store or recycle unused materials 

11. Clean, maintain and store tools and equipment appropriately 

12. Clean up work area and dispose of rubbish properly 

13. Accurately complete all required documentation 

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