978 1 5275 8956 8 Sample
978 1 5275 8956 8 Sample
in Europe
Open-Air Museums
in Europe
By
Jiří Langer
By Jiří Langer
Translator: Vladimír Klíma
All rights for this book reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced,
stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means,
electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without
the prior permission of the copyright owner.
Austria (A) 67
Belarus (BY) 92
Belgium (B) 95
Bulgaria (BG) 100
Croatia (HR) 109
Czech Republic (CZ) 115
Denmark (DK) 146
Estonia (EST) 175
Faroe Islands (FO) 180
Finland (FIN) 183
France (F) 198
Germany (D) 208
v
Contents
Hungary (H) 327
Iceland (IS) 349
Ireland (IRL) 355
Italy (I) 363
Latvia (LV) 366
Lithuania (LT) 376
Moldova (MD) 386
Netherlands (NL) 389
Norway (N) 405
Poland (PL) 469
Romania (RO) 536
Russia (RUS) 571
Serbia (SRB) 605
Slovakia (SK) 611
Slovenia (SLO) 646
Sweden (S) 651
Switzerland (CH) 697
Ukraine (UA) 707
United Kingdom (Great Britain and Northern Ireland) (GB) 739
Glossary 783
Bibliography 788
List of museums 792
vi
Preface for the first (Czech) edition
In June 2011, Jiří Langer and Karel Kuča were awarded European
Union Prize for Cultural Heritage / Europa Nostra Awards in Amsterdam
for their book about wooden churches and bell towers in Europe (2009) and
in October 2019, they were awarded the Jože Plečnik Prize in the Czech
Republic for their lifelong conservation activities.
viii
Author’s preface
x
A u t h o r ’s P r e f a c e
-time intention thanks to the initiative of Věra Kučová and Karel Kuča and
the interest of Baset Publishing House – but to a larger extent than I had
imagined. The book aims to capture all museums in Europe if possible.
It would have been hard to make a list of open-air museums which come
close to their complete enumeration (roughly 4000). These museums, like
any living organisms, arise, develop or, unfortunately, decay and disappear.
Compromising, I used my knowledge, special literature, museum leaflets
and consultations with my friends and foreign colleagues. With so many
museums, one cannot find out the present-day condition of all museums
between Iceland and the Ural, between the Norwegian northern cape and the
Balkans. You may, therefore, see much more in some of the museums than
this guidebook promises.
New facts kept enriching my text and I found it difficult to finish writing
this book. It would never have been complete without the assistance of
numerous colleagues. A single man cannot gather so much information
from such vast territories. I wish to remember my friends here from
distant museums who helped me study the cultures of their own countries,
particularly the late Christopher Zeuner and Michael Thomas from England,
Eurwyn William from Wales, Alan Gailey from Northern Ireland, Heino
Wessel Hansen, Liese Andersen, Finn G. Nielsen and their colleagues from
Denmark, Mats Janson, Gunnar Elfström, Kersti Björklef and Lena Larsén
from Sweden, Jakob Agotnes, Ase Tömdel and Ola Setter from Norway,
Stefan Baumeier, Carl Ingwer Johansen and Konrad Bedal from Germany,
Oľga Sevan from Russia, Jurij Hoško from Ukraine, Paul Niedermaier and
Mihai Dancuş from Romania, Endre Füzes and Miklos Cseri from Hungary
and many others.
I wish to thank Karel Kuča for his valuable editorial advice and many
photos, Milena Habustová and Luděk Habusta for helping me acquire and
eleborate data, Helena Bočková for her comments relating to southeastern
Europe and all my friends who offered me minor data (as these informed
the whole) and who sent me photos taken during their journeys: Vanda
Jiřikovská, František Ledvinka, Alena Lenoch, Tomáš Lenoch, Bedřich
Přikryl, Oľga Sevan, Daniel Drápala, Zdeněk Cvikl, Jozef Turzo, Tomáš
Vašut, Heinovi Wessel Hansenovi, his wife Liese Andersen, Zuzana Syrová,
Jiří Woitsch, Miroslav Sopoliga and Olena Krušyns´ka.
My warmest thanks rightly belong to my wife Jaroslava Langerová,
who accompanied me on my travels. I could never have written this book
without her understanding.
Jiří Langer
xi
Book arrangement
This English edition – like the Czech one (2005) – was completed by Karel
Kuča, who also arranged the illustrations, especially photos and maps, and
ensured high research standards, whereas Vladimír Klíma translated the
text from Czech into English. (The revision of the final version was carried
out by Elanor Harris and chapter The European House and its Context
also by Craigmaile McGregor, whose assistance combines English and
ethnography.) Both of us express our gratitude to the editors of Cambridge
Scholars Publishing for improving the utility, shape and look of the
extraordinary work written in Czech by Jiří Langer, who has devoted his
lifelong research and art to his fruitful ethnological studies.
In comparison with the Czech edition, the text of the book had to be
shortened by a third: numerous localities near the museums were often left
out as well as transport information and the activities of the museums. Texts
about museums have been updated and some newly established museums
have been added. Many photos have been replaced with current ones.
The book includes 527 museums in 31 countries. The information
is offered in alphabetical order of the countries and their museums.
The numbers corresponding to them appear on the maps attached to each
of the selected countries. Where the network of museums is excessively
dense, countries are subdivided into lands or regions (in Germany, Norway
and Sweden) also in alphabetical order in order to keep the number codes
of museums, photos and maps as they were indicated in this edition.
The names of sites and museums are given in the original version (Příbram,
Røynevarden and Nowy Sącz). Names in countries using the Cyrillic alphabet
are also given ‘as they are written’, not ‘as they are pronounced’ because
their letters are the same as in the Slavic languages. Latin. International
licence plate country codes with the number code of the museum (like EST-1)
precede each open-air museum in the text and the captions of the images.
The text includes the identification of each museum, the original name of
the open-air museum and the town or village, the name of the district or
the region, sometimes its postcode, the name of the street or the address of
the administrative area. In bold square brackets – [27] – are the numbers
of buildings or areas corresponding to the numbers in the schematic maps
of the individual museums. To speed up orientation, the numbers indicate
some museums that do not have a map in the book.
5
THE EUROPEAN HOUSE
AND ITS HISTORICAL CONTEXT
6
T H E E U R O P E A N H O U S E A N D I T S H I S TO R I C A L C O N T E X T
crucks and poles only supported the roof. The open space under it was, at
the periphery of the floor plan, covered by thin walls tied together with poles
or stakes, placed under low eaves (DK-5, DK-9, NL-5, D-9, D-112). This
system has survived until recently, too. Straining beams, with strong cruck
posts, became the main element of the oldest constructions (the cruck) of
timber-framed houses in Britain (GB-2, GB-13, GB-14), western Germany
(D-82, D-92, D-95), the Netherlands and Denmark (DK-6, DK-16) with
isolated traces elsewhere in Europe (in the Limousin region of France and
8
T H E E U R O P E A N H O U S E A N D I T S H I S TO R I C A L C O N T E X T
also in Romania, for example). They were preferable to narrow, single-pile
buildings, which did not need any posts standing in the centre. The second
system using poles made it possible to roof any wide space. Its posts formed
frameworks on which other posts (crown posts) were placed. The whole
frame network developed whereby the structure could be made higher
or wider simply by adding more parts. The structure supported the roof.
The periphery walls were fastened to it on the lower posts bordering the
floor plan, but the inner partitions and cross walls were entirely movable.
Big family communities needed large roofed spaces, chiefly in the cattle
breeding regions, because animals lived alongside people during winter.
The German, Danish and Dutch museums demonstrate best how the latter
system (using poles) evolved into the timber-framed one, by separating the
posts from the truss, although the hall space only had a negligible dividing
arrangement (D-92, DK-5, NL-1). [4.1–3, 2.1–5]
One of the main elements of the construction of slanting curved posts
(crucks) is the tie beam. It connects two slanting posts horizontally at
ceiling height (ceilings were never made in halls) with its ends supporting
lower roof purlins, called wall plates. Post, timber-framed and frame
constructions have this tie beam (Ankerbalken) under the post tops.
The ends pass through chiselled holes in the posts. They are wedged from
both sides and often braced, as this joint makes the whole hall structure
stable. Small-size constructions (such as the Jutland longhouse, DK-8)
use this tie beam as a ceiling beam supporting the cover of the ceiling to
close the wall panels. The lower roof side purlin (called the arcade plate)
supporting the truss, lies on posts over the tie beam. This technological
progress simplified hall construction so much that the tie beam was
shifted over the posts, and as their upper timber joint started to support
the wall plates [5.1–5.5]. They could lie farther from the middle than the
separation of the posts would otherwise make possible. The tie beam of
antiquity became an entablature, which separated the roof structure from
the main supporting posts in the middle of the building. These were not
yet wall posts, but they were no longer part of the roof construction.
A separate truss lay on a high framework and partially hung down to the
lower walls. This process started first in Upper Germany (the Hallenhaus
mentioned in the 14th century, D-14) and later in the Netherlands, from
where it spread northward to Schleswig (Gulfhaus) documented in the
17th century (N-1, D-92, DK-8). Unlike the long halls of Lower German
cattle breeding farms, Upper German halls have a shorter, almost square
floor plan. Their inner framework construction was used elsewhere
in Europe in the farming hall sections of unity houses of all kinds of
9
T H E E U R O P E A N H O U S E A N D I T S H I S TO R I C A L C O N T E X T
6.6 Post construction supporting a truss with a ridge purlin, walls are
joined under eaves (southern Germany, mostly 17th century).
6.7 Post construction with a straining beam standing on a tie-beam and
fastening a ridge purlin, with self-supporting walls (southern Germany,
mostly 17th century).
6.8 Rafter truss on a timber-framed supports a ridge purlin on which more
widely open roof slants hang (Switzerland, 18th century).
6.9 Truss is supported by posts and their side purlins with wall purlins
at their ends are braced with frame construction inbuilds inside rooms
(southern Germany, especially Upper Franconia, 14th century).
9.1 Cleft pole support with a board 9.5 Two-storeyed granary with
roof preserved in west Carpathian a log-built vault (Slovakia).
chalet houses (Těšín region: Czech 9.6–9.7 Log-built house with
Republic/Poland). a log-built and purlin roof-ceiling
9.2 Cleft pole support and a frame (Norway, Sweden, Finland, Russia).
construction (Denmark).
9.3 Combination of log-built
and post (pole) constructions
(a reconstruction of a Celtic house,
Slovakia).
9.4 Log-built construction with
a crown post support truss
(Austria).
countries, just as it became a sign of modernity, too. It spread (in the 17th–18th
centuries) to the vast territories of northern and central Europe including the
Baltic regions, to become fashionable in houses of any building material or
construction type. Gabled roofs were more often constructed where beam-
-vaulted (sleg) and rafter trusses were built. Log-building was managed to
shape the vaults rounded towards the centre from four sides under a hipped
roof. Gabled roofs developed into hipped ones in two ways: the gable is
enlarged either from below to become a half-hipped construction or, from
above, to become one of the myriad variations of a gabled roof (SK-11).
Decorated gables became a prestigious addition to the gable cap. The most
beautiful ones to have survived are in the western Carpathians, where there
are sometimes hints of a partially roofed hole near the ridge of the hipped
roof, which helped smoke to escape (RO-12). This function is connected
13
T H E E U R O P E A N H O U S E A N D I T S H I S TO R I C A L C O N T E X T
with the origin of the roof gable where smoke canopies led smoke from
a firebox into an under-roof space [9.1–4]
Log-built constructions can be found in archaeological finds throughout
central Europe in the late prehistoric and protohistoric periods, other than
the above-mentioned constructions. Framed constructions panelled with
beams and a small number of completely log-built constructions have been
found in large, fortified residential sites from the mid-1st millennium BCE
in Biskupin (PL-1a) near Toruń. Even though walls are basic elements of
log building, slightly more recent Celtic residential sites (SK-3) contained
solutions where the main weight of the roof is supported by poles around
a log-built construction. Eave purlin beams lie upon them, while rafters are
in turn supported by a ridge purlin braced by two crown posts, placed upon
log-built walls. Log building techniques, essentially capable of supporting
the roofs of inner spaces, were enclosed by log vaulting. Their proximity
depends upon the height of the curving, i.e. on how close to other beams
they are (over eaves-orientated walls) in the vault. Beams are less frequent
under low roofs in northern Europe. The ridge purlin is set between the
two gables at the top. Two eave purlins are set at the bottom and a side
purlin is placed in the middle. Boards, and sometimes more coverings,
are laid on them. Closer beam vaults enabled builders to daub plaster
in the other area or cover the roof from above with birch bark and turf
(N-5, N-11). Rooms with such vaults usually have no ceiling. Vaults can
therefore be perceived as inclined roof ceilings (tak, in Norwegian, means
both ceiling and roof). Even this system does not take walls as bases for
separate roofs.
Comments on European regional architecture are usually concerned
with northern Europe and in the most mountainous areas. But this idea
is not quite correct. Log-built construction covered the whole of eastern
Europe down to the Black Sea steppes. It included the central European
lowlands, the Carpathians and most of the Alps, but did not reach the
Balkan Peninsula or the Pyrenees Mountains. Medieval peoples tried to
gain the largest possible areas of land for farming, to the cost of the forests.
Where they had destroyed forests, they substituted earthen dwellings for
wooden ones (e.g. in the Danube River basin). There is a sharp demarcating
line in central Europe between timber-framing and log-built construction,
regardless of natural conditions. Elsewhere, there is an intermediary stage
between these two construction systems in the use of frame walls, which
have horizontal plank panelling or timbers or (pole construction) with tenon
and mortice joints in the posts preserved in northwestern and southeastern
Subalpine regions (D-4, CH-1), in Greater Poland (PL-6, PL-12, PL-21,
14
T H E E U R O P E A N H O U S E A N D I T S H I S TO R I C A L C O N T E X T
PL-22), Ukraine (UA-2, UA-3, UA-5), Romania (RO-1, RO-3, RO-12),
in southeastern Jutland (DK-3), Gotland (S-2) and elsewhere. The frame
wall method of construction preceded both timber-framing and log-built
construction, as proven in many places in Europe.
The regions where dug-out dwellings occurred before the early
20th century has demonstrated how much care had to be devoted to the
building of earthen walls and the insulation protecting them from external
(climatic) and internal (earth) humidity. As soon as the building of light-
-structured houses began on the ground, all older knowledge and experience,
gathered and passed on from one generation to another, was applied to
the building and maintenance of dug-out dwellings. Everywhere (even in the
mountains), but chiefly in intermittently flooded lowlands, a lot of attention
was paid to the riverbank, in the form of elevation and fixing to the ground
(20 to 30 cm above the level of the yard). A wall with posts or a frame
supporting the truss could be erected on the bank. Even western European
hallenhauses and barn houses in north-eastern Europe stand on the bank,
which is, however, completely hidden behind these buildings, concealing
all the typical functions of the farmstead. In central, eastern and south-
-eastern Europe and some places in the Alps, the bank exceeds the floor
plan of enclosed rooms and makes it possible to build a roofed (sometimes
an arcade/colonnade type), open living space. The humidity of the wet
ground that had been frozen over threatened northern (and many eastern)
European dwellings. Buildings in many regions were therefore constructed
either on pillars or underneath log-built constructions containing storage
spaces with ventilation holes. Such houses already had wooden floors on
an elevated ground floor from the medieval beginnings of building culture,
unlike houses with banks where floors were earthen (central Europe until
the mid-19th century). Only after dwellings had been erected over cellars
and stone-built constructions had become widespread, were houses built
upon foundations that were really solid underneath.
5.1–5.2 Post (pole) construction supporting a rafter truss; walls are added
(northern Germany).
5.3 Tie-beam on posts supports crown post with the purlin of a truss;
periphery walls are added (northern Germany, chiefly from the end
of the 18th century).
5.4 Tie-beam becomes a cross-joint of posts and bears the basic truss
beams of a wider truss; outer walls are added (northern Germany, chiefly
19th and 20th centuries).
5.5 Pillars support the roof construction; the frame supports the rafter
roof (northern Germany, mostly the 19th and 20th centuries).
-enclosed chamber for sleeping (or only a chest bed). Growing requirements
transformed it into a living room with a stove. The space around the
fireplace (from which the stove was fuelled) became ever more significant
within the house. As soon as it became separated from the barn and stalls by
means of a wall, a separate dwelling developed. It was a two-part unit with
a smoke kitchen and a clean living room, which had a ceiling. The chamber
was developed for sleeping, partially under the truss or on the first floor.
The kitchen had remained open to the truss until it was joined with a chimney.
The formation of two-unit, tall buildings is confirmed by the uninterrupted
main timber-frame posts, joined with the upper wall beam (D-46, D-108).
[5.1–5, 7.1–7, 7.10].
The oldest Hallenhauses, dating from the 16th century in the Lower
Rhine River basin and western Lower Saxony, demonstrate that their thick
frames of strong oakwood posts do not need oblique braces or supports
to withstand side pressure (D-60). They were painted in the same brown
colour as the daubed covering of their walls. As late as the 17th century,
the post ‘grid-style’ framework became less dense in the interior of
Westphalia, Hesse, Swabia and Franconia, and the main construction lines
17
T H E E U R O P E A N H O U S E A N D I T S H I S TO R I C A L C O N T E X T
7.1 Six inner posts support the truss, 7.6 Three-unit living part is
the space is enclosed and divided separated from a threshing floor
by frame-and-plank walls (Upper and cowsheds by an entrance
Franconia, 14th century). passage (German and Austrian
Alps, from the 17th century).