Audio Section 54

10. Audio

Audible Sound
4.5MHz Sound IF

Sound IF Sound Audi

Audio
o SPKR
Amplifier Detector Amplifier

Block Diagram of Audio Section

10.1 Audio Stages and Operations

10.1.1 Sound IF Amplifier

Amplify and processes the 4.5 MHz Sound Intermediate Frequency (IF)
signals.

10.1.2 Sound Detector

It detects the 4.5 MHz Intermediate Frequency Sound signals.
Separate and recover the information from the 4.5 MHz sound carrier.

10.1.3 Audio Amplifier

The stereo audio is fed to the right and left audio power amplifiers and then
drive onto the speakers. Transform audio signal to an audible sound.

10.2 Symptoms, Troubles and Remedies in Audio Section

10.2.1 Picture Fine, No Audio
First check that any muting control is not activated. This might be a button on
the remote or set itself. If you have a headphone jack, it may have dirty
contacts as plugging in a headphone usually mutes the speaker. If the set is
mono or only one channel of a stereo set is out, then check for bad connections
to the loudspeaker.
Test the loudspeaker by disconnecting one of the wires (with the power off!)
and measuring its resistance with an ohmmeter (it should be less than 100
ohms – probably less than 8 ohms). Or momentarily touch a 1.5 volt battery to
the speaker terminals - you should get a click or pop from the speaker. Next,
trace back from the speaker output terminals to the circuit board and look for
bad solder connections or a loose or dirty connector. If these tests do not
reveal anything, you probably need a scope (or audio signal tracer) and
schematic. Or at least the part number off of the chip. If there is little or no
buzz from the speaker, that would indicate a problem fairly near the output. If
the tuner/if were bad, I would expect some noise/hum pickup from the low level
audio stages. Get the part number off of the chip. If it is in a socket, check the
contacts for corrosion or looseness.
Meralco Foundation Institute Electronics Department
Audio Section 55

10.2.2 Weak or Distorted Sound

Assuming you are not attempting to play it at ear shattering levels, this may be due to
an alignment problem in the IF/audio demodulator, a bad audio IC or other circuitry,
bad connection, or a defective speaker. If your TV has an earphone or audio line out
jack, try this to see if it is clear. If so, then your problem is in the final audio amp or
speaker (s). If only one channel of a stereo TV is affected, it is almost certainly the
audio amp or speaker for that channel. Interchange connection to the two speakers
temporarily and see if the problem moves.
If the problem is at all intermittent - try gently whacking the TV – then it is likely a bad
connection - either a cold solder joint or a dirty or tired IC socket. The audio amplifiers
in newer TVs are almost always ICs and replacements are usually readily available. If
the IC is in a socket, remove the IC, clean the pins and socket contacts and reinstall it.
Sometimes, the contacts on old socket lose their springiness and do not provide solid
connections. Such a socket will need to be replaced. If your TV is fairly old - 10 years
or so - this may be an alignment problem requiring tweaking of a coil in the sound IF. It
may be possible to have similar problems with newer TVs but this is relatively rare.
There could also be bad electrolytic capacitors, probably in the power supply area.
Even though you might think this would result in hum and there is none (even when
there is no audio in the program or the sound is turned down) dried up caps can result
in distorted sound that may sound like a sort of clipping?
10.2.3 Whining When Off
Many TVs actually run their switch-mode power supplies even when off to power the
standby stuff like the remote control receiver, real time clock or timer, and channel
memory. Depending on the design of the regulator, the power supply may be running
at a low chopper frequency due to the light load. Some people, dogs, and rodents are
then annoyed. It could also be an indication of a fault like a bad capacitor or loosened
transformer core if this symptom just developed.
10.2.4 Reducing/Eliminating Yoke Noise
Carefully look under vertical core next to plastic liner, on top and bottom is a plate
called the astigmatism shunt, it has come loose. Work epoxy, or service cement onto
it to glue it down and noise should quit. Fixing of noisy yokes by removing the yokes
and using motor armature spray sealant. If you carefully mark the EXACT position of
everything (yoke, purity magnets), and slide the yoke off the CRT, then once the yoke
has been sealed with motor armature spray sealant and has dried thoroughly, put the
yoke back EXACTLY where it was, there should be no problems. The only thing I have
had to do was set the purity on one set, but it was off a little to begin with.
10.2.5 Buzz
If it is the speaker, then it is a problem with the audio circuitry. It could also be
interference caused by fluorescent lights or appliances like vacuum cleaners with
universal motors or body massagers with vibrator interrupters (which generate sparks).
Where the source of the problem cannot be located or eliminated, consider using a
(HiFi) VCR for the tuner with an external stereo amplifier and the disable the internal
speaker.
There is a slight possibility that the AC power in your house has some harmonic
content - the waveform is not sinusoidal. This might be the case if you try to run on
the same circuit as an active dimmer or something else with thyristor control.
If the buzz is coming from the speaker suspect a bad saw filter in the if circuit (very
common). If it is coming from elsewhere in the set it could be the flyback transformer,
line input choke, or most common on those sets - the deflection yoke. I have repaired

Meralco Foundation Institute Electronics Department

Audio Section 56
many of these yoke by using a wooden shim and some silicone rubber. In the collar of
the yoke just ahead of the lock down clamp, there are some metal strips under the
plastic. These are magnet that is used for convergence correction at the top and
bottom of the picture. If you disturb them too much it will throw off the convergence.
10.2.6 Chattering Yoke
This is a special case of buzzing originating from the deflection yoke. Remove the
yoke from the tube and bore a small hole in the plastic on both halves (top and
bottom). These holes will be at the 12 and 6 positions, as the 3 and 9 will have
windings visible. Fill the holes with white glue and let the glue settle in, rotating the
yoke as it does. The glue will soak into the powdery material and harden it. You will
have to do this several times until the glue oozes out near the clamp.
10.2.7 High-Pitched Whine
First, make sure it is not coming from the loudspeaker itself. If it is, then we are
looking at an unusual electronic interference problem rather than simply mechanical
vibration.
There are several parts inside the TV that can potentially make this noise. These
include the horizontal flyback transformer, deflection yoke, other transformers, even
ferrite beads in the horizontal deflection circuits. In addition, transformers or chokes in
the switching power supply if this is distinct from the horizontal deflection circuitry.

Meralco Foundation Institute Electronics Department