E-TECH™ ENGINE OCTOBER 2000

(REVISED)

SERVICE MANUAL 5-106

(Includes Left-Side Redesign)

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PLEASE LET US KNOW!

Your comments and suggestions will help
us improve this manual!
Please complete and mail this form or FAX
your comments to: (610) 709-3800.
Manual: _______________________________ Publication Number: _______
Vehicle Model: _________________________ Model Year: ______________
Do you find procedures properly organized and easy to follow? m Yes m No
If not, please explain: ______________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________
Manual page numbers: _____________________________________________
Are there any important procedures or other information presently not in this
manual that you would like to see included? m Yes m No
If yes, please describe: _____________________________________________
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Did you find any errors in the procedures or illustrations? m Yes m No
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Please include a copy of each page in question and mark your comments and
suggestions.
Name: ________________________________ Phone: (_____) _____-_______
Company: _______________________________________________________
Address: ________________________________________________________
City: _________________________________ State: _______ Zip: _______
Position Title: ____________________________________________________

Thank You For Your Assistance

Mack Trucks, Inc.
(ATTENTION: RTS STAFF, 6S3)

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UNITED STATES

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ALLENTOWN PA 18105-9972

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ERRATA SHEET — ENGINE

Crankshaft Center Main Bearing

Specification Update

Effective January 2006, Mack Powertrain Engineering has

widened the crankshaft center main bearing runout
specification. The maximum allowable crankshaft runout
specification was changed from 0.005 in. (0.127 mm) to
0.007 in. (0.178 mm). The manuals listed below are affected
by this change.

Reference: Engine Manuals

5-101 E7

5-106 E-Tech™

5-107 E7G

5-110 ASET™ AI/AMI

5-111 ASET™ AC

JANUARY 2006 © MACK TRUCKS, INC. 2006

(NEW ISSUE) MACK ENGINE SERIES

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 SERVICE BULLETIN
NUMBER: SB-210-034
DATE: 5/14/02
MODEL: E-Tech™
(Also applies to Mack Trucks Australia)

MISCELLANEOUS FASTENER CHANGES — E-TECH™ ENGINES

The following fastener changes were made on E-Tech™ engines:
Injection Nozzle Hold-Down Screws — Beginning 3/00, the injection nozzle hold-
down screws having the 15 mm external hex head have been changed to a new screw
(part No. 421GC2116M) that has a 16 mm internal hex head.
Rocker Shaft Mounting Bracket Bolts — Beginning 4/00, the bolts and washers
used to secure the rocker shaft mounting brackets to the cylinder head have been
changed to a flange-head bolt (part No. 65AM5010). Tightening torque value for this
new fastener remains the same at 40 lb-ft (50 N•m).
Air Compressor Mounting Screw — Beginning 8/00, the original hex-head screw has
been changed to a flange-head screw (part No. 27AM16). This change was made so
that the mounting screw clamp load is distributed over a wider area of the flat washer.
Camshaft Thrust Washer — Beginning 10/00, the two screws and washers used to
secure the camshaft thrust washer to the block were changed to a flange-head screw
(part No. 66AM44). Tightening torque value for this fastener remains the same at 15 lb-
ft (20 N•m).
Cylinder Head Capscrews — Beginning 6/01, the cylinder head capscrews and the
separate hardened flat washer were replaced in production with capscrews having
captured washers (part number series 400GC317M). This change was implemented to
prevent the possibility of omitting or installing more than one washer during assembly.
Additionally, the outside diameter of the captured washer was reduced slightly
(approximately 0.030″) to accommodate the redesigned cylinder head cover that was
phased into production 7/01. Cylinder head capscrew torque remains the same at 205
lb-ft (278 N•m).
Flywheel-to-crankshaft mounting bolts — Beginning 9/01, bolts having captured
washers (part Nos. 419GC31M and 419GC31M2) were released into production to
replace the previously used bolts and separate hardened flat washer used to secure
the flywheel to the crankshaft. Flywheel-to-crankshaft mounting bolt torque remains the
same at 185 lb-ft (250 N•m).
Electronic Unit Pump (EUP) hold-down screws — Beginning 11/01, new hold-down
screws (part No. 421GC2123M) were released into production for the electronic unit
pumps. These screws are dimensionally the same as the previously used screws, but
conform to a more stringent specification that controls minor surface forming defects to
a greater degree than for common fasteners.Torque of the EUP hold-down bolts has
been changed from 42 lb-ft (57 N·m) to 60 lb-ft (81 N·m).
Turbocharger Mounting Nuts — Beginning 5/02, new turbocharger mounting nuts
were released into production. These nuts (part No. 142GC247M) are composed of
silver-plated stainless steel to provide greater resistance to heat than the previous nuts.
Additionally, these nuts have the Spiralock™ self-locking thread feature to prevent
loosening in service.

SB-210-034 — Page 1 of 1
SERVICE P UBLICATIONS , ALLE NTOWN , PA 18105 ©MACK TRUCKS, INC. 2002

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 E-TECH ENGINE
™

SERVICE MANUAL
(Includes Left-Side Redesign)

MAY 2006 REPRINTED 2.5M

SEPTEMBER 2004 REPRINTED 2.5M
APRIL 2003 REPRINTED 2.5M
JUNE 2002 REPRINTED 2.5M
OCTOBER 2001 REPRINTED 2.5M
OCTOBER 2000 © MACK TRUCKS, INC. 2000
(REVISED – SUPERSEDED ISSUE JULY 1999) 5-106

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ATTENTION
The information in this manual is not all inclusive and
cannot take into account all unique situations. Note that
some illustrations are typical and may not reflect the
exact arrangement of every component installed on a
specific chassis.
The information, specifications, and illustrations in this
publication are based on information that was current at
the time of publication.
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a
retrieval system, or be transmitted in any form by any
means including electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording, or otherwise without prior written permission
of Mack Trucks, Inc.

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 front.fm Page iii Friday, August 4, 2000 11:16 AM

TABLE OF CONTENTS

TABLE OF CONTENTS

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
SAFETY INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Advisory Labels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Service Procedures and Tool Usage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
EXPLANATION OF NUMERICAL CODE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
ABOUT THIS MANUAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Changes from the Existing E-Tech™ Service Procedures Manual . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
ABOUT THE E-TECH™ ENGINE AND ITS SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
IDENTIFICATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
ENGINE MODEL IDENTIFICATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Engine Information Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Engine Serial Number Identification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
E-TECH™ ENGINE DESIGN FEATURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Electronic Unit Pumps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
V-MAC III . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Belt Drive System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
J-Tech™ Engine Brake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Camshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Valve Train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Low-Pressure Fuel System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Fuel Filtration System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
High-Pressure Fuel System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
High-Pressure Fuel Injection Lines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Fuel Injector Assemblies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Cylinder Block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Block Heater for Front (Water Pump) Location . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Cylinder Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Cylinder Head Gasket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Gear Train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Air Compressor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Power Steering Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Vibration Damper Hub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Front Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Centri-Max® Oil Filter Breather Vent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Lubrication System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
GLOSSARY OF TERMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
ENGINE SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
V-MAC III Diagnostics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
CAMSHAFT TIMING AND LOBE LIFT CHECKS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Camshaft Timing Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Camshaft Lobe Lift Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
CHASSIS-MOUNTED CHARGE AIR COOLING TESTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Special Tool Required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
CMCAC Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
CMCAC Pressure Test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
Restriction Pressure Test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Core Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
CMCAC Preventive Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
CYLINDER HEAD AND CYLINDER BLOCK LEAK TEST PROCEDURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
Cylinder Head and Head Gasket Check — In Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
Cylinder Head Fuel Passages Leak Check — In Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
Cylinder Block/Cylinder Head Coolant Passages Leak Check — In Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
Cylinder Head Oil Passage Leak Check — Out of Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
Cylinder Head Coolant Passage Leak Check — Out of Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
Cylinder Block Coolant Passage Leak Check — Out of Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
ENGINE BRAKE TESTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
Operational Tests . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
Electrical Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
Hydraulic/Mechanical Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Final Test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Troubleshooting Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
BELT DRIVE SYSTEM TENSIONING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
Manually Tensioned System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
Automatically Tensioned System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
FILTER ELEMENT REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
Crankcase Breather Filter Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Oil Filter Element Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Fuel Filter Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Coolant Conditioner Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
ENGINE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
General Instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Removal from Vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
General Instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
Filter Element Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Mounting Bracket Assembly Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
Mounting Engine in Stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
Alternator Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
Fuel Filter Adapter Assembly Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Coolant Conditioner Element Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
Oil Cooler-to-Water Pump Inlet Line Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
Thermostat Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Coolant Manifold Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
Air Inlet Manifold Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
Water Pump Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
Turbocharger Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Assembly Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Exhaust Manifold Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Engine Wiring Harness Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) and Cooling Plate Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
Electronic Unit Pump (EUP) Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
Oil Fill Tube Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116

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Air Compressor Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
Valve Cover and Spacer Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Rocker Arm, Valve Yoke and Push Rod Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
Nozzle Holder Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
Cylinder Head Assembly Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
Vibration Damper and Crankshaft Hub Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Oil Pan Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Oil Pump Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
Front Cover Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
Auxiliary Shaft Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
Camshaft Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
Flywheel Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
Flywheel Housing Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Main Bearing Cap Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
Crankshaft Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
CYLINDER BLOCK RECONDITIONING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Special Tools Required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Piston Cooling Spray Nozzle Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Cylinder Sleeve Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Cleaning and Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
Cylinder Sleeve Counterbore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
Cup Plug Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
Pipe Plug Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
H-Ring Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
Camshaft Bushing Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
Auxiliary Shaft Bushing Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
Cylinder Sleeve Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
Piston Cooling Spray Nozzle Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
Cylinder Block Dowel Pin Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
CRANKSHAFT AND FLYWHEEL BENCH PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Crankshaft Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Crankshaft Dowel Pin Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
Crankshaft Gear Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
Crankshaft Wear Ring Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
Flywheel Inspection and Resurfacing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
AUXILIARY SHAFT AND CAMSHAFT BENCH PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Auxiliary Shaft Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Camshaft Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
CONNECTING ROD AND PISTON BENCH PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
Connecting Rod Inspection and Reconditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
Piston Inspection and Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 76
Piston Ring Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177
Assembling Connecting Rod to Piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
CYLINDER HEAD OVERHAUL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
Special Tools Required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
Inlet and Exhaust Valve Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
Cylinder Head Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
Fire Ring Groove Cutting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
Valve Guide Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188

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Valve Seat Insert Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191
Valve Spring Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
Injection Nozzle Holder Insert Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
Valve Yoke Guide Pin Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
Cylinder Head Cup Plug Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
Cylinder Head Pipe Plug Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
Valve Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
VALVE ROCKER ARM SHAFT BENCH PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
Rocker Arms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Disassembly (without/with Engine Brake) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Reassembly (without Engine Brake) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Reassembly (with J-Tech™ Engine Brake) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
LUBRICATION SYSTEM BENCH PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
Oil Cooler Assembly Reconditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
Oil Pump Reconditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
COOLING SYSTEM COMPONENTS BENCH PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
Oil Cooler Reconditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
Water Pump Reconditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS BENCH PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
Electronic Unit Pump (EUP) Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
Installation of Electronic Unit Pump Plunger Spring and Seat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
Fuel Injector Nozzle Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
ENGINE REASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
General Instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
Crankshaft Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
Main Bearing Cap Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
Piston and Connecting Rod Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
Flywheel Housing Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
Flywheel Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240
Valve Lifter Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242
Camshaft Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242
Camshaft Core Plug Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
Camshaft Idler Gear Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244
Auxiliary Shaft Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
Oil Pump Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246
Front Cover Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247
Crankshaft Front Seal Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248
Crankshaft Hub Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
Vibration Damper Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
Oil Pan Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250
Cylinder Head Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252
Exhaust Manifold Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255
Nozzle Holder Assembly Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257
Push Rod Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259
Valve Yoke Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
Rocker Arm and Engine Brake Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261
Valve Cover and Spacer Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264
Oil Fill Tube Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265
Engine ECU/Cooling Plate Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266

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Air Compressor Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
Electronic Unit Pump Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268
Engine Wiring Harness Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269
Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Assembly Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269
Turbocharger Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270
Water Pump Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271
Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Mounting Bracket Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272
Coolant Manifold Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
Air Inlet Manifold Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
Thermostat, Housing and Seal Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
Coolant Conditioner Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278
Fuel Filter Adapter Assembly Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278
Engine ECU Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280
Oil Cooler-to-Water Pump Inlet Line Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280
Alternator Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281
Removing Engine from Engine Stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281
Plate-Type Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Mounting Bracket Assembly Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282
ENGINE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
General Instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
Engine Installation into Vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
IN-CHASSIS PART/COMPONENT PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286
Electronic Unit Pump (EUP) Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286
Camshaft Replacement (Engine in Chassis) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288
Engine Brake Control Valve Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293
Valve Lifter H-Ring Installation Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295
ENGINE SETUP AND ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
Fuel Injection Timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
Valve Yoke, Valve Lash and Engine Brake Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
Engine Speed and Position Sensors Installation and Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304
Electronic Unit Pump (EUP) Calibration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305
ENGINE FINAL PREPARATION AND OPERATIONAL CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
Filter Element Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
Engine Lubrication System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
Turbocharger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
Cooling System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
Fuel System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
Engine Operational Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
REBUILT ENGINE RUN-IN PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308
General Instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308
Run-In Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308
SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309
E-TECH™ ENGINE MECHANICAL SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310
Performance Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310
Material and Dimensional Data . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
E-Tech™ Component Torque Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319
SPECIFICATION FOOTNOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328
E-TECH™ ENGINE LUBRICANT AND SEALANT SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329
FASTENER TORQUE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
Fastener Selection and Installation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
Fastener Sizes and Types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331

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TABLE OF CONTENTS
SCHEMATICS & DIAGRAMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333
ENGINE SYSTEM SCHEMATICS (FLUIDS FLOW) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334
Cooling System Flow Diagram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334
Lubrication System Flow Diagram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335
Fuel System Flow Diagram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336
SPECIAL TOOLS & EQUIPMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337
E-TECH™ ENGINE SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338
Special Tools for Engine Overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338
V-MAC III Special Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341
INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343

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INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION

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INTRODUCTION
SAFETY INFORMATION
Advisory Labels
Cautionary signal words (Danger-Warning-Caution) may appear in various locations throughout this
manual. Information accented by one of these signal words must be observed to minimize the risk of
personal injury to service personnel, or the possibility of improper service methods which may damage
the vehicle or cause it to be unsafe. Additional Notes and Service Hints are used to emphasize areas of
procedural importance and provide suggestions for ease of repair. The following definitions indicate the
use of these advisory labels as they appear throughout the manual:

Activities associated with Danger indicate that death or serious personal

injury may result from failing to heed the advisory. Serious personal injury
may be equated to career-ending injury.

Activities associated with Warning indicate that personal injury may result
from failing to heed the advisory. In this case, personal injury is not equated to
career-ending injury, but results in possible change in quality of life.

Activities associated with Caution indicate that product damage may result from
failing to heed the advisory. Caution is not used for personal injury.

A procedure, practice, or condition that is essential to emphasize.

A helpful suggestion that will make it quicker and/or easier to perform a procedure,
while possibly reducing service cost.

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INTRODUCTION
Service Procedures and Tool Usage
Anyone using a service procedure or tool not recommended in this manual must first satisfy himself
thoroughly that neither his safety nor vehicle safety will be jeopardized by the service method he selects.
Individuals deviating in any manner from the instructions provided assume all risks of consequential
personal injury or damage to equipment involved.

Also note that particular service procedures may require the use of a special tool(s) designed for a
specific purpose. These special tools must be used in the manner described, whenever specified in the
instructions.

1. Before starting a vehicle, always be seated in the driver’s seat, place the
transmission in neutral, be sure that parking brakes are set, and
disengage the clutch.
2. Before working on a vehicle, place the transmission in neutral, set the
parking brakes, and block the wheels.
3. Before towing the vehicle, place the transmission in neutral and lift the
rear wheels off the ground, or disconnect the driveline to avoid damage to
the transmission during towing.

Engine-driven components such as Power Take-Off (PTO) units, fans and fan
belts, driveshafts and other related rotating assemblies, can be very
dangerous. Do not work on or service engine-driven components unless the
engine is shut down. Always keep body parts and loose clothing out of range
of these powerful components to prevent serious personal injury. Be aware of
PTO engagement or nonengagement status. Always disengage the PTO when
not in use.

REMEMBER,
SAFETY . . . IS NO ACCIDENT!

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INTRODUCTION
Mack Trucks, Inc. cannot anticipate every r Use hoists or jacks to lift or move heavy
possible occurrence that may involve a potential objects.
hazard. Accidents can be avoided by recognizing
r NEVER run engine indoors unless exhaust
potentially hazardous situations and taking
fumes are adequately vented to the outside.
necessary precautions. Performing service
procedures correctly is critical to technician safety r Be aware of hot surfaces. Allow engine to
and safe, reliable vehicle operation. cool sufficiently before performing any
service or tests in the vicinity of the engine.
The following list of general shop safety practices
r Keep work area clean and orderly. Clean up
can help technicians avoid potentially hazardous
any spilled oil, grease, fuel, hydraulic fluid,
situations and reduce the risk of personal injury.
etc.
DO NOT perform any services, maintenance
procedures or lubrications until this manual has r Only use tools that are in good condition,
been read and understood. and always use accurately calibrated torque
wrenches to tighten all fasteners to specified
r Perform all service work on a flat, level
torques. In instances where procedures
surface. Block wheels to prevent vehicle
require the use of special tools which are
from rolling.
designed for a specific purpose, use only in
r DO NOT wear loose-fitting or torn clothing. the manner described in the instructions.
Remove any jewelry before servicing
r Do not store natural gas powered vehicles
vehicle.
indoors for an extended period of time
r ALWAYS wear safety glasses and protective (overnight) without first removing the fuel.
shoes. Avoid injury by being aware of sharp
r Never smoke around a natural gas powered
corners and jagged edges.
vehicle.

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INTRODUCTION
EXPLANATION OF NUMERICAL GROUP 400 — STEERING, AXLES, WHEELS
AND TIRES, DRIVELINE
CODE
The organization of MACK service manuals has GROUP 500 — BRAKES, AUXILIARY
been upgraded to standardize manual content SYSTEMS
according to a reference system based on
component identification. The new reference GROUP 600 — CAB, TRUCK BODY
system will help link the information contained in
this publication with related information included GROUP 700 — ELECTRICAL
in other MACK service/warranty publications,
such as associated service bulletins, warranty The second two digits of the three-digit code are
manuals, and MACK Service Labor Time used to identify the system, assembly or
Standards. subassembly, as appropriate, within each of the
groupings. The codes applicable to this
The system is based on a numerical code, the publication are shown at the beginning of each
first digit of which identifies the general procedure, as necessary, to guide you to specific
component grouping as listed here: component information.

GROUP 000 — GENERAL DATA Additionally, a two-character alpha code (i.e.,

[NV] RINGS, PISTON) may be referenced with
GROUP 100 — CHASSIS each procedure. This alpha code, in combination
with the three-digit Group number, identifies the
GROUP 200 — ENGINE specific assembly, sub-assembly or part, and
directly relates to the first five positions of the
GROUP 300 — CLUTCH, TRANSMISSION, operation code listed in MACK Service Labor
TRANSFER CASE AND PTO Time Standards.

Examples:

Numerical Code

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INTRODUCTION
ABOUT THIS MANUAL The engine reassembly procedure includes step-
by-step instructions for reassembling the engine.
This helps to ensure proper installation and
Changes from the Existing E-Tech™ longer service life.
Service Procedures Manual
Under Engine Setup and Adjustments, the latest
Mack Trucks, Inc. has made many major setup information is provided for adjusting all
improvements to this E-Tech™ Service E-Tech™ engine models. Engines perform best
Procedures Manual, with changes to both content and conserve fuel most efficiently when adjusted
and organization. This is a complete manual, properly.
describing engine features and the operation of
major systems as well as providing Two additional procedures are included as guides
comprehensive overhaul procedures, for removing and reinstalling the engine. Both
specifications and adjustments. sections are generic in nature since E-Tech™
engine installation procedures vary from one
All specifications and torque values are given in vehicle style to another. As such, the procedures
English and metric measurements. Critical torque are intended as a checklist to remind the
values are also included in the text, eliminating technician of all necessary tasks.
the need to refer to SPECIFICATIONS section
each time a specified torque value is required. While troubleshooting procedures are similar for
The Special Tools list has been revised to include most diesel engines, this manual includes only
all special tools required for a complete overhaul. those that pertain to the E-Tech™ engine. The
Warnings, cautions, notes and service hints help TROUBLESHOOTING section contains
the technician service the engine safely and symptom-related questions as well as tests to
efficiently. help the technician consider all possible problem
sources.
The engine disassembly procedures show how to
remove components in an order that requires the This service manual also includes applicable
least amount of handling. Where appropriate, it information from active service bulletins and
includes general information needed to properly service letters since publication of the E-Tech™
service that component. Service Procedures Manual dated July 1999.
Various component bench procedures guide the
technician in disassembly, cleaning, inspection
and assembly of each component. Each bench
procedure helps in determining if the part is
serviceable or should be replaced.

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INTRODUCTION
ABOUT THE E-TECH™ ENGINE Development of the E-Tech™ engine has been
driven by three basic requirements. It was
AND ITS SERVICE designed to:
This publication is intended to provide technicians r Meet projected exhaust and noise emissions
with a working knowledge of the E-Tech™ regulations.
engine, including both early-production and
current-production versions. r Meet customer demands for improved fuel
economy, driveability and engine braking.
The E-Tech™ engine has undergone a left-side r Compete in a world market.
redesign. Changes include a new plate-type oil
cooler and a new oil filter mounting arrangement. Although the drive to reduce emissions and noise
This new oil filter arrangement includes a new levels is primarily the result of government
centrifugal oil filter assembly, where the mandates, the E-Tech™ engine is designed to
centrifugal filter assembly is now mounted upside provide customers with an improved engine over
down, and the external oil drain is eliminated. the existing E7 engine it replaces. Specific
This new centrifugal oil filter is called Centri-Max® improvements include:
PLUS.
r Improved fuel economy.
The engine electronic control unit (EECU) has r Increased throttle response (time to
been relocated to the left side of the engine and 90 percent torque is faster with the
is mounted on a new one-piece inlet manifold. E-Tech™).
Relocating the EECU has eliminated the need for
the EECU cooling plate, and has also brought r More retarding horsepower through a newly
about a design change to the unit pump front designed J-Tech™ Engine Brake from
outboard heat shield. Additionally, with the Jacobs.
change to the one-piece inlet manifold, the fuel
filter mounting adapter is new and is located Mack Trucks, Inc. is looking beyond the borders
slightly forward of the previous location. of North America to increase its market and bring
the quality, toughness and technology associated
Descriptions of these design changes and the with the MACK name to a worldwide audience.
other features are provided in the DESCRIPTION The current environment of global regulations
& OPERATION section. Additionally, the service concerning exhaust emissions, noise and other
effects of these changes on removal, installation, factors has leveled the playing field on an
disassembly, assembly, setup and adjustment international basis. This means that the
procedures, etc., are included in the respective improvements made to meet the North American
sections of this publication. environmental regulations can now be applied
worldwide.

The E-Tech™ engine is used in MACK trucks and

European Renault VI trucks.

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NOTES

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IDENTIFICATION

IDENTIFICATION

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IDENTIFICATION
ENGINE MODEL Block 3 — ADR Regulations
IDENTIFICATION r An “X” in block three means the engine has
been certified to meet Australian emissions
Engine Information Plate regulations.
r Two dashes in block three mean the engine
The E-Tech™ engine information plate is located does not meet Australian emissions
on the top of the front cylinder head cover (back regulations.
cover for LE and MR chassis). This plate includes
information concerning: Block 4 — Model Year
r Engine model, serial number and 11GBA r The four-digit number stamped in block four
part number. represents the year in which the engine was
r Advertised horsepower at rated speed rpm. certified.
r Emissions regulations to which the engine Block 5 — Federal Family
conforms and other pertinent information
required by emissions regulations. r A 12-digit number stamped in block five
denotes the Federal Family to which the
r Inlet and exhaust valve lash settings and engine belongs for emissions certification
engine brake slave piston lash setting. purposes.
The following explanations are provided to aid in r All domestic engines will have a 12-digit
interpreting some of the key information found on Federal Family number in block five.
the engine information plate.
Block 6 — California Family
Block 1 — U.S. EPA Regulations r If the engine meets California emissions
r An “X” in block one means the engine meets regulations, the same 12-digit number
United States EPA regulations for the year stamped in the Federal Family block is
stamped in block four. stamped in block six.
r Two dashes in block one indicate the engine r If the engine does not meet California
does not meet United States EPA emissions regulations, there will be two
regulations for the year stamped in block dashes in block six.
four. This is only permissible with certain
export engines. All domestic engines will Block 7 — Initial Injection Timing
have an “X” in block one. r E-Tech™ engines do not have an initial
injection timing, as this is controlled
Block 2 — California Regulations electronically.
r An “X” in block two indicates the engine r E-Tech™ engines will have “NA” stamped in
meets California emissions regulations for block seven.
the year stamped in block four. This engine
is referred to as a “50-state” engine and can Block 8 — Engine Brake
be sold in any state throughout the U.S.
r This block is only used when the engine is
r Two dashes stamped in block two mean the equipped with an engine brake. The
engine does not meet California emissions stamping in this block indicates the engine
regulations. If an engine has an “X” in block brake slave-piston lash setting.
one and two dashes in block two, it is
referred to as a “49-state” engine, meaning it Figure 1 illustrates the location of the information
is not certified for sale in California. plate and Figure 2 illustrates its content.

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IDENTIFICATION
1

Figure 1 — Engine Information Plate Location

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IDENTIFICATION
2

Figure 2 — Engine Information Plate

Engine Serial Number Identification

In addition to the engine information plate on the
front cylinder head cover, the engine is also
identified by the engine serial number stamped
into the cylinder block. This serial number is
located on the block right side just below the
turbo oil drain tube flange as shown in Figure 3.
3

Figure 3 — Engine Serial Number

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

E-TECH™ ENGINE DESIGN The EUP is very similar to a unit injector. The
primary difference is that the EUP delivers fuel
FEATURES through a fuel injection line to a conventional-
The E-Tech™ engine evolved from the E7 PLN style nozzle-holder assembly, whereas a unit
(commonly referred to as the E7). The four injector has a nozzle mounted directly on it.
primary design features that differentiate the
E-Tech™ engine from the E7 engine are as The EUP is capable of providing very high fuel-
follows: injection pressures. The pump is controlled by a
high-speed solenoid valve (see Figure 4)
r Electronic Unit Pump (EUP) fuel injection responding to electronic signals from the
system V-MAC III engine control module. This electronic
r V-MAC® III electronic control system control provides a greater timing range. The
combination of higher pressures and greater
r Poly-v belt drive system timing control improves the combustion process
r J-Tech™ engine brake system from Jacobs and optimizes engine performance. This enables
the E-Tech™ engine to conform to more stringent
These major changes resulted in subsequent emissions regulations while providing
improvements and redesign of related performance and fuel economy improvements.
4
components within the engine.

Electronic Unit Pumps

Electronic Unit Pump (EUP) technology, which
has been utilized in the heavy-duty industry for
many years, has been adapted for the E-Tech™
engine to achieve:
r Optimum performance
r Lower emissions
r Simplified service
r More effective pump/engine diagnostics
(individual cylinders can be isolated)
Figure 4 — EUP Components
An EUP is a single-plunger fuel-injection pump,
one per cylinder, driven by a third lobe on the
engine camshaft. The pump roller follower
(tappet) is in contact with the engine cam lobe.
Electronic unit pumps for engines produced
through approximately late 3rd quarter 2000 were
fitted with three O-rings on the pump housings.
Pumps on engines produced later than 3rd
quarter 2000 are fitted with two O-rings in the top
and bottom grooves. The O-ring in the center
groove has been eliminated.

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

The EUP design does not include a helix on the The EUP system, using proven industry
pump plunger. Fuel delivery is controlled entirely technology, is well adapted to troubleshooting.
by the solenoid valve. To start fuel delivery, the When required, an individual EUP can be
V-MAC III control system allows current to flow to replaced with a minimum of downtime.
the solenoid, closing the solenoid valve and
trapping fuel in the pump. As the plunger moves Because the unit pumps are located in close
upward, fuel is delivered through the high- proximity to the exhaust manifold, heat shields
pressure line to the fuel-injector nozzle assembly. have been added to prevent excessive heat from
When current flow to the solenoid is stopped, the reaching the EUP components.
solenoid valve opens and fuel in the pump then
flows to the cylinder block fuel return gallery.
Refer to Figure 5.
5
The right-side heat shields on an E-Tech™
engine are a mandatory part of the engine
(Figure 6). The heat shields must be reinstalled if
they are removed for maintenance or repair.
Failure to do so will result in damage to the
sensitive electronic components.
6

Figure 6 — Heat Shields (with Right-Side Mounted

EECU)

1. Heat Shield Attachment Points

Figure 5 — Electronic Unit Pump

Current production E-Tech™ engines contain

EUPs with three O-rings. On future production
engines the center O-ring will be eliminated.
Present EUP service kits available through
MACK service parts do not contain the center
(brown) O-ring.

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

7
V-MAC III
The V-MAC III engine control system has been
developed specifically for the E-Tech™ engine.
Features include electronic drivers and
diagnostics for unit pumps, separate engine and
vehicle control units, and a revised wiring
harness. These features make V-MAC III
applicable only to the E-Tech™ engine.

V-MAC III ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNITS

The Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) is
located on the right side of the engine (Figure 8)
in early-production engines. Characteristics of the
engine design, such as heat shields, vibration
isolation, and running low-pressure fuel through
the EECU mounting plate (to cool it), permit the
EECU to be mounted directly on the engine in the
right-side location.
8

Figure 7 — Heat Shields (with Left-Side Mounted EECU)

1. Fuel Temperature Sensor 2. Redesigned Heat Shield

Figure 8 — V-MAC III Engine EECU (Right-Side Mounted)

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

For current-production engines, the EECU is With the two-module design, a more efficient and
relocated to the left side of the engine (Figure 9) reliable electronic communication network,
and mounted on a new one-piece air inlet known as multiplexing, can be used. Multiplexing
manifold (Figure 13). With this relocation, the essentially means that inputs and outputs to and
fuel-cooled backing plate is no longer necessary from one control unit are “batched” and sent as a
and has been eliminated. The new harness is package to the other control unit via a single,
routed around the rear of the engine, and the high-speed communication line. Inherent to this
module and harness connections are mounted system is a significant reduction in the length and
vertically at the forward end of the module. This number of wires, specifically those which must
provides an improved environment and less pass through the bulkhead, as well as the related
chance for water infiltration at the harness connections.
connectors.
9
V-MAC III SYSTEM SENSORS
There are a total of eight engine-mounted
sensors and one vehicle-mounted sensor. Seven
of the sensors provide input for the operation of
the V-MAC III engine control system, while the
remaining two sensors provide input for the dash
gauges. The dash gauge oil temperature sensor
is optional.

The following list and Figure 10 through Figure 19

identify the nine sensors and the features and
location of each. Three of the V-MAC III sensors
will be described in detail. These are the fuel
temperature sensor and the engine speed and
engine position sensors. The engine speed and
engine position sensors are functionally similar to
the E7 RPM/TDC and TEM sensors, but are later
designs, quite different from the E7 sensors.
r Engine Speed Sensor
r Fuel Temperature Sensor
Figure 9 — EECU (Left-Side Mounted) r Oil Pressure Sensor
1. Engine ECU 2. Air Inlet Manifold r Ambient Air Temperature Sensor (see Note)
r Boost Air Temperature Sensor
The cab-mounted Vehicle Electronic Control Unit r Dash Gauge Coolant Temperature Sensor
(VECU) provides a base for future development, r V-MAC III Coolant Temperature Sensor
such as “total vehicle” systems and wireless
communication. r Engine Position Sensor
r Dash Gauge Oil Temperature Sensor
For enhanced quality, an engine-mounted EECU (optional)
allows the complete engine system (EECU,
harness and sensors) to be assembled at the
engine manufacturing/assembly plant, then
tested and verified on site. The entire engine
electronic package can be left undisturbed during
the vehicle assembly process.

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

The chassis-mounted ambient air temperature

sensor was not available with early-production
engines. It was phased into production beginning
approximately mid-July 1999 for CX model
chassis, mid-September 1999 for CH, CL, RD8,
MR, DM and DMM model chassis and early
November 1999 for RD6, RB and LE model
chassis. The sensor is mounted off-engine and
supplies temperature input to the engine
electronic control unit (EECU), so that the V-MAC
system can determine a more accurate indication
of inlet air temperature.
10
Location of the sensor depends upon chassis
model, but in general, it is located at the front of
the chassis mounted either on the front
crossmember behind the bumper, on a hood
hinge, hood hinge bracket, body, spring bracket,
or grille guard assembly.

Figure 10 — V-MAC III Engine-Mounted Sensor Locations (Pre-Left-Side Redesign)

1. Fuel Temperature Sensor (Behind Fittings) 6. Dash Gauge Oil Temperature Sensor (on Left Side of Oil
2. Dash Gauge Coolant Temperature Sensor Pan)
3. V-MAC III Coolant Temperature Sensor 7. Oil Pressure Sensor
4. Boost Air Temperature Sensor 8. Engine Position Sensor (on Engine Front Cover)
5. Engine Speed Sensor (on Left Side of Flywheel Housing)

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

11

Figure 11 — V-MAC III Engine-Mounted Sensor Locations (with Left-Side Mounted EECU)

1. Fuel Temperature Sensor (Behind Fittings) 5. Oil Temperature Sensor (on Filter Mounting Bracket)
2. Dash Gauge Coolant Temperature Sensor (on Side of 6. Oil Pressure Sensor (on Filter Mounting Bracket)
Coolant Manifold) 7. Engine Speed Sensor
3. V-MAC III Coolant Temperature Sensor (on End of Coolant 8. Dash Gauge Oil Temperature Sensor
Manifold) 9. Engine Position Sensor (on Engine Front Cover)
4. Boost Temperature Sensor (on Top of Air Inlet Manifold)

On current-production engines with the left-side 12

mounted EECU, there are three harness

connectors adjacent to the oil pressure sensor.
One connector, the oil pressure sensor
connector, is always used. The other two
connectors are for an optional oil temperature
sensor. One connector (color-coded black) is for
the oil temperature sensor used with the standard
dashboard, and the other connector (color-coded
gray) is for the oil temperature sensor used with
the electronic dash. Oil temperature sensor part
No. 64MT2116 is used with the standard
dashboard and sensor part No. 64MT2103 is
used with the electronic dashboard.
Figure 12 — V-MAC III Sensor Locations at Filter
Mounting Bracket (with Left-Side Mounted EECU)

1. Oil Temperature Sensor 3. Filter Mounting Bracket

2. Oil Pressure Sensor

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

On current-production engines with the left-side inlet is at the front, or the center). There is a large
mounted EECU, the boost temperature sensor boss at the rear of the manifold for boost air
port has been moved to the manifold inlet area supply to the air compressor and boost pressure
(depending upon chassis model, the manifold access ports.
13

Figure 13 — V-MAC III Sensor Locations with Front Air Inlet Manifold (Left-Side Mounted EECU)

1. Boost Temperature Sensor 5. Boost Air Supply to Air Compressor

2. Fuel Filter Mounting Bracket Boss 6. Engine Electronic Control Unit Isolator Mounting Stud,
3. Port for Boost Pressure Test Gauge Threaded Bosses
4. Boost Pressure Port for Line-to-Dash Gauge or Boost
Pressure Sensor

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

14

Figure 14 — V-MAC Sensor Locations with Center Air Inlet Manifold (Left-Side Mounted EECU)

A. Side View 4. Boost Pressure Port for Line-to-Dash Gauge or Boost

B. Top View Pressure Sensor
1. Fuel Filter Mounting Bracket Boss 5. Boost Air Supply to Air Compressor
2. Port for Boost Pressure Test Gauge 6. Engine Electronic Control Unit Isolator Mounting Stud,
3. Boost Temperature Sensor Threaded Bosses

The V-MAC III sensors have different mounting

methods, or mounting threads, compared to the
similar V-MAC® II sensors:
An interim version front manifold was used on
engines with the new oil cooler/filter arrangement, r V-MAC III engine speed and engine position
but without the engine ECU relocation. sensors are flange-mounted with a mounting
screw.
r V-MAC III oil pressure, boost temperature,
fuel temperature and coolant temperature
sensors have English pipe threads.
r Dash gauge sensors for coolant and oil
temperatures are threaded sensors with
English pipe threads, the same as the E7
with V-MAC II.

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

Fuel Temperature Sensor On current-production engines with the left-side
mounted EECU, the fuel temperature sensor is
On early-production engines with a right-side located at the fuel cylinder block fuel gallery inlet
mounted EECU, a fuel temperature sensor is (Figure 16). This location is standardized for all
provided at the top of the secondary fuel filter fuel filter arrangements, simplifying and
mounting adapter (Figure 15) installed in a boss improving the line routing.
adjacent to the outlet fitting. The V-MAC III 16

system monitors fuel temperature at the

secondary fuel filter outlet, as fuel is being
supplied to the cylinder block fuel gallery inlet.
This fuel temperature data improves accuracy of
the mpg fuel consumption information shown on
the Co-Pilot® display.

The fuel temperature sensor is the same as the

coolant temperature sensor used at the rear of
the water manifold location. The illustration that
follows shows a CH/CL/DM engine-mounted, fuel
filter adapter. The RD/MR/LE chassis-mounted
secondary fuel filter mounting adapter has a
similar sensor mounting boss. In either case, if
the fuel temperature sensor is not used, the boss
should not be drilled and tapped.
15

Figure 16 — Fuel Temperature Sensor (Engine with

Left-Side Mounted EECU)

1. Fuel Temperature Sensor 2. EUP Heat Shield

Figure 15 — Fuel Temperature Sensor (Engine with

Right-Side Mounted EECU)

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

Engine Speed Sensor 18

This sensor is located at the left side of the

engine flywheel housing (Figure 17). It is flange-
mounted and held in place by a retaining screw.
The engine speed sensor is the same part
number as the engine position sensor,
located on the engine front cover.
17

Figure 18 — Engine Position Sensor

Boost Temperature Sensor and Boost

Pressure Diagnostic Ports

A V-MAC III boost temperature sensor is located

on the top of the rear inlet manifold (Figure 19).
There is no boost pressure sensor because, as
with all V-MAC systems, V-MAC III uses ECU
Figure 17 — Engine Speed Sensor programming for transient smoke control.

The E-Tech™ flywheel has 117 teeth (one less There are two boost pressure gauge ports just
tooth than the E7 engine flywheel) and has two forward of the boost temperature sensor. The
adjacent teeth with part of their width (1/4 inch) forward port is used for the dash boost pressure
machined off. These two teeth on the E-Tech™ gauge when chassis is so equipped. The port
flywheel allow the sensor to determine top dead adjacent to the boost temperature sensor can be
center (TDC) of cylinder Nos. 1 and 6, whereas used to install a boost pressure gauge for
sensing notches are used on the front face of the diagnostic purposes if the need arises.
E7 flywheel. Because of this feature, ring gear-to- 19

flywheel indexing must be maintained.

Engine Position Sensor

The engine position sensor is located on the

engine front cover (Figure 18) and is retained in
the same manner as the engine speed sensor.
This sensor is designed to monitor the passage of
holes which are in the front face of the camshaft
timing gear. This sensor performs a function
similar to the TEM sensor in the Bosch Injection
Pump RE30 governor on the E7 engine.

Figure 19 — Boost Temperature Sensor and Boost

Pressure Gauge Ports

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

Belt Drive System J-Tech™ Engine Brake
The belt drive system uses a single 10-rib poly-v The J-Tech™ engine brake is a vehicle-slowing
belt to drive the alternator, water pump, and fan device that allows the engine to act as an air
drive (Figure 20). A separate single-v belt, compressor, producing retarding horsepower that
running off the water pump pulley, drives the helps slow the vehicle. The braking action is
refrigerant compressor. The service life of the accomplished through hydraulics using a master-
poly-v belt is considerably improved over other slave piston arrangement similar to a hydraulic
systems and allows the use of higher horsepower jack. When the engine brake is operated, a single
cooling fans. exhaust valve opens near top dead center of the
compression stroke, releasing high-pressure air
Both manually tensioned and automatically out the exhaust. Opening one exhaust valve,
tensioned systems are used. Whether an engine instead of two, significantly reduces load to the
has the manually tensioned or automatically engine brake and the valve train without
tensioned system depends on the specific engine adversely affecting braking power. Releasing
configuration and application. compressed air to the exhaust prevents the
20
return of energy to the engine piston on the
expansion stroke. The result is a net power loss
from the engine, or retarding horsepower, used to
slow the vehicle.

With the J-Tech™ engine brake unit, the master

piston of a given cylinder activates the slave
piston of that same cylinder, providing optimum
timing of the compression release. The E-Tech™
engine uses the same engine brake unit on the
front and rear cylinder head.

Figure 20 — Belt Drive

1. Air Conditioner 3. Alternator

Compressor 4. Poly-V Belt
2. Water Pump 5. Tensioning Device

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

ENGINE BRAKE FEATURES r Unique exhaust rocker arm adjusting screws
and nuts (Figure 21).
Refer to Figure 22. 21

There are major valve train changes relative to

engine brake implementation on the E-Tech™
engine. The most evident changes include:
r A significantly larger brake unit with a
different appearance and operating concept
than the E7.
r Standard E-Tech™ valve yokes are used at
all positions. The special Jacobs exhaust
yokes on the E7 engine are not used. Note
that the E-Tech™ engine uses a different
valve yoke from the E7 engine. The E7 and
E-Tech™ yokes are not interchangeable.
r A hollow yoke adjusting screw with a floating
pin in the screw is used in the exhaust Figure 21 — Rocker Arm Adjusting Screws and Nuts
22
yokes. The screw opens only the exhaust
valve directly beneath it when the
J-Tech™ engine brake is activated.

Figure 22 — J-Tech™ Brake Valve Yoke Hollow Adjusting Screw Arrangement

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

ENGINE BRAKE OPERATION
Refer to Figure 23.
To help prevent breaking or dislodging of the
The J-Tech™ brake functions in the following control valve snap ring, the J-Tech™ control
manner: valve components have been redesigned to
r Under powered operation, a large lash in the incorporate a new-style collar (which replaces the
valve train “skips” the 0.100-inch brake old-style valve stop spacer) and outer spring and
bump on the camshaft. a retaining washer. With this change, the part
number of the engine brake housing assembly
r During engine brake operation, the solenoid was changed from 757GB58B to 757GB58C
valve is energized, allowing engine oil to fill (beginning with housing assembly Serial No.
the J-Tech™ brake housing oil passages. D69006001), and was phased into E-Tech™
r Oil overcomes the control valve spring and engine production June 30, 1999 (beginning with
drives the control valve up in its bore. Oil engine serial number 9M4395).
passes through the ball check inside the 23
control valve and exits through the port in
the side, filling the master/slave piston
circuit.
r Oil pressure causes the master piston and
rocker arm to move down, removing the
large lash from the cam side of the valve
train. The result is a corresponding lash
increase on the exhaust valve side.
r The brake bump on the exhaust cam forces
the master piston upward and directs high-
pressure oil to the slave piston. The check
valve in the control valve prevents high-
pressure oil from escaping.
r High-pressure oil causes the slave piston to
move down, opening the outboard exhaust
valve via a valve-actuating pin which passes
through the center of the yoke adjusting
screw. Activation occurs near top dead
center and releases compressed air into the
exhaust manifold.
r At stroke bottom, the slave piston separates
from the reset valve, allowing oil to flow into
the accumulator. This action reduces
pressure in the high-pressure circuit,
permitting the slave piston to retract and the
exhaust valve to close in preparation for
normal exhaust cycle. Oil in the accumulator Figure 23 — J-Tech™ Brake
ensures the hydraulic circuit is fully charged
for the next cycle.

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

Camshaft Valve Train
The large diameter of the camshaft (Figure 24) The valve train accommodates the aggressive
provides the strength necessary for actuating the cam profiles. Roller lifters and roller followers or
unit pumps. In addition to the inlet and exhaust “tappets” (Figure 25) are used to actuate the
valve lobes, lobes have been added to drive the valves and unit pumps, respectively. The roller
unit pumps. The camshaft also has more lifters handle aggressive cam profiles better and
aggressive intake and exhaust cam profiles for have increased load-carrying capability.
improved fuel economy and emissions. A bump 25

in the exhaust cam profile provides timing for

engine brake operation.

The camshaft has induction-hardened journals

and lobes. This process produces a pronounced
heat discoloration mark approximately 3/8-inch
wide, around the front and rear faces of each
journal and lobe.

As an additional aid in reducing cam bushing

temperature, a groove has been added to the No.
4 journal of current-production camshafts. This
groove was not included on early-production
units. Adding the groove to the camshaft journal
has not resulted in a change to the camshaft part
number. Figure 25 — Roller Lifters
24

VALVES
The stem tip of the valve has grooves to identify
the valve as intake or exhaust. The exhaust seat
face is 30 degrees, whereas the inlet valve seat is
20 degrees.

Figure 24 — Camshaft

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

VALVE SEALS YOKES
The engines are produced with a valve stem seal Pin-Type Yokes
that features a multi-lip upper section, combined
with a second lip to significantly reduce During February of 1999, the welded wear pad-
crankcase blow-by. This seal can easily be style yoke was supplemented in production with a
identified by the steel retainer band around the headed pin (“button”) type yoke. The material of
top of the seal lip. the pin-type yoke remains ductile iron.

To improve seal-to-guide retention, the guides Both the new configuration and the previous
have three sharp ridges machined into the upper configuration valve yokes are being used in
outside diameter surface. Refer to Figure 26. current E-Tech™ engine production, but the
26
yokes will not be intermixed on the same engine.
27

Figure 26 — Valve Seal

Figure 27 — Current Valve Yokes
VALVE SPRINGS, ROTATORS AND
PUSH RODS
E-Tech™ valve springs and rotators have heavier
spring tension (pressure) than the E7 to For service purposes, it is acceptable to intermix
accommodate the more aggressive cam profiles. the different configuration yokes on the same
Push rod design also incorporates a larger engine.
diameter to handle the increased loads.

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

On E-Tech™ and E7 engines, the valve yokes 29

are very similar. However, it extremely critical that

the correct valve yokes are used with the correct
engine. The previous configuration yokes were
identified with the letter “M” or “E” cast into the top
of the yoke next to the slipper pad wear area. The
letter “M” signifies the valve yoke is used in E7
engines, and the letter “E” signifies that the yoke
is used in E-Tech™ engines. On the new “button-
head” style valve yoke, however, the letters “M”
and “E” have been eliminated. Additionally, the
yokes no longer have part numbers stamped on
them. Installation of the correct new button-head
style valve yokes on the correct engine is still
critical. Therefore, a means of positively
differentiating between E-Tech™ and E7 is
provided in the following information and
illustrations.

The most positive means of identification are by

looking at the nose of the valve yoke. The
E-Tech™ yoke has the nose end of the slipper
pad area ground flat as shown in Figure 28. Figure 29 — Valve Yoke Side View
28

The yokes used on the E-Tech™ engine have a

deeper engagement at yoke screw end than E7
because of the longer valve (Figure 30). E7 and
E-Tech™ yokes are very similar in appearance,
but should not be interchanged.
30

Figure 28 — E-Tech™, E6, E7 and E9 Valve Yokes (Top

View)

A second method of identifying the “button-head”

yoke is to look at the side view. On the yoke used
for the E-Tech™ engine, the top surface of the
adjusting screw end is on the same plane as the Figure 30 — Valve Yokes
bottom surface of the “button-head.” On the E6,
E7 and E9 valve yokes, the top surface of the 1. E-Tech™ 2. E7
adjusting screw area is 0.145 inch below the
bottom surface of the “button-head.” Refer to
Figure 29 for an illustration of these differences.

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

31

Do not interchange yokes. If an E-Tech™ yoke is

used on an earlier E7 engine, the valve keepers
will become dislodged and cause a dropped
valve. This will cause severe engine damage. If
the E7 yoke is used on an exhaust location of a
J-Tech™ brake-equipped E-Tech™ engine, the
yoke will disengage from the valve stem tip during
engine brake operation. See Figure 31.

Figure 31 — Yoke/Valve Combinations

1. Correct E7 Yoke/Valve Combination 4. E-Tech™ Yoke with E7 Valve

2. Correct E-Tech™ Yoke/Valve Combination Note: Arrows identify problem areas.
3. E7 Yoke with E-Tech™ Valve

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

Pinless Valve Yokes — Inlet Valve Locations screw. For the exhaust valves, it is still necessary
to adjust the valve yoke first, then the rocker arm
Beginning on March 2, 2000 (engine serial lash.
No. 0D0120), pinless valve yokes were
implemented into production on all E-Tech™ The bottom of the valve yoke that bridges the two
engines. The pinless yokes are used for the inlet inlet valves has a round hole and an elongated
valve only. This change also affects the cylinder hole that fit over the valve stems. The nose of the
heads which no longer have yoke guide pins at yoke with the elongated hole has two notches in
the inlet valve locations. the casting. When installing the pinless yokes, it
is important that the end of the yoke with the two
The pinless yoke is self-leveling in operation and notches faces away from the valve rocker shaft. If
does not have a yoke leveling adjustment screw. the yoke is installed incorrectly, the yoke will
Inlet valve lash adjustments are performed in the contact the rocker arm.
normal manner with the rocker arm adjusting 32

Figure 32 — Proper Assembly of the Pinless Valve Yoke

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

ROCKER ARMS Low-Pressure Fuel System
Early-production E-Tech™ used the older-style The flow of fuel through the low-pressure side of
E7 rocker arms. Effective second quarter 1997, a the fuel system is essentially the same as that in
newly designed rocker arm (Figure 33) on which the E7 engine for current-production engines with
the slipper-end wear surface is a hardened, the left-side mounted EECU. However, on early-
headed pin pressed into the rocker arm, was production engines with the right-side mounted
introduced and is currently used. EECU, a cooling plate was added to the circuit
33
(Figure 34).

Fuel flows from the fuel tank to the primary filter,

the EECU cooling plate (if equipped), the supply
pump, the secondary filter and the unit pumps.
Unused fuel is collected in the fuel return gallery
in the cylinder block and returned to the fuel tank
by a fuel return line.

To decrease restriction in the low-pressure fuel

system, hoses and fittings with larger inside
diameters are used for all suction lines in the
E-Tech™ system.

To meet unit pump demands, the supply pump

provides a 100 gph fuel flow at 70 psi pressure.
This high level of flow and pressure is needed to
cool the unit pumps and EECU, and keep the fuel
supply gallery filled. A check valve fitting, located
on the fuel return gallery outlet on the cylinder
block right side, maintains fuel gallery pressure
and prevents the system from bleeding down
when the engine is not operating.

On current-production engines, a new fuel gallery

pressure regulating valve with a 70 psi spring
setting is used to reduce fuel gallery pressure and
Figure 33 — New-Style Rocker Arm fuel dilution.

ROCKER ARM/SHAFT ASSEMBLY The gear-type supply pump is located on the rear
Improved features of the E-Tech™ rocker arm/ side of the right-front flange of the cylinder block.
shaft assemblies include: It is driven by the engine camshaft gear. A hand
primer pump is mounted on the supply pump.
r No coil springs between rocker arms
r C-clips used to retain rocker arms
r Longer shaft lengths
r Cup plugs in shaft ends
r Improved centering of rocker arm slipper
feet over yoke pads

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

34

Figure 34 — Low-Pressure Fuel System

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

Fuel Filtration System The fuel filter mounting adapter is made from a
casting, on which the primary and secondary
To build up the extremely high pressures required mounting flanges are the same large size
for improved combustion, unit pumps must have (Figure 36). The adapter has metric thread spuds
an unrestricted supply of clean fuel. The for mounting the fuel filters. As has always been
E-Tech™ filtration system, which utilizes a the practice, primary and secondary spuds are
primary and secondary filter element, was different sizes, so only the correct filter can be
designed to provide optimum balance between installed at the proper location.
filtration efficiency (micron size) and filter change
interval (restriction).

The main design features of the E-Tech™ The correct fuel filter mounting adapter must be
filtration system include: used on the proper engine (E-Tech™ or E7) to
r Fine micron media ensure the correct filters are used.
r Large diameter seal surface on both filters, 36

as well as different primary and secondary

thread sizes (to avoid mix-up with E7 filters)
r Unique identification system (a red primary
filter and green secondary filter with black
logo and lettering, and two 1/4-inch black
bands, four inches from top of filter). Refer to
Figure 35.

It is mandatory to use these improved fuel filters

on E-Tech™ engines to protect the unit pumps
from contaminant damage to the very close-
toleranced internal components.
35
Figure 36 — Fuel Filter Mounting Adapter (with
Right-Side Mounted EECU)

V-MAC III monitors fuel temperature at the

secondary fuel filter outlet which supplies fuel to
the gallery feeding the unit pumps (early
production), or at the cylinder block fuel gallery
inlet (current production). This fuel temperature
data is used by the system to adjust fuel delivery
for optimized power and to provide accurate mpg
fuel consumption information shown on the
Co-Pilot display.

Figure 35 — Fuel Filters

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

High-Pressure Fuel System Fuel is supplied to each of the unit pumps by the
fuel supply gallery in the cylinder block. The high
The high-pressure fuel system (Figure 37) is pressure required for fuel injection is generated
designed to provide fuel to the combustion by a pump plunger (10 mm diameter, 18 mm
chamber under high pressure. In this system, unit stroke), which is actuated by a roller cam follower
pumps (one per cylinder) replace the previously (tappet) driven by the engine camshaft. The
used fuel injection pump. The unit pump volume of fuel delivered to each cylinder is
operating pressures are 26,000 psi, more than precisely metered by a solenoid mounted on
50 percent greater than the peak injection each of the unit pumps, which responds to
pressures of the E7 engine. These higher signals from the V-MAC III EECU. The
pressures, along with an extended timing range pressurized fuel is delivered to the injector
and optimized timing control, provide nozzles by individual fuel injector lines, which are
performance improvements. the same for all cylinders and all E-Tech™ engine
models.
37

Figure 37 — High-Pressure Fuel System

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

High-Pressure Fuel Injection Lines
High-pressure fuel lines for each cylinder
(Figure 38) are short (17 inches) and have the A check valve is incorporated in the nozzle
same bends and the strength to withstand the holders on current-production engines.
high fuel pressure generated by electronic unit 39
pumps. The same part number is used for all
cylinders and all engine models. Also, there are
no clamps used on these lines.
38

Figure 38 — Fuel Injection Lines

Fuel Injector Assemblies

Injector nozzles in the E-Tech™ differ from those
used in the E7 in that they have increased
material strength, a larger 22-mm diameter and a
higher pressure capability. These features are
essentially due to the higher operating pressures
generated by the unit pumps.

In the E-Tech™ engine, a pin on the nozzle

holder locates the nozzle in the cylinder head.
The locating pin is on the same side as the nozzle
holder fuel inlet port. Refer to Figure 39.

Figure 39 — Fuel Injector Nozzle Holder

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

Cylinder Block Due to the large camshaft diameter, the cam bore
position is shifted up and outboard to operate the
The cylinder block is a single-piece design made unit pumps and provide cam-to-crank clearance
of high-strength alloyed gray cast iron. The deep (Figure 40). To accommodate this change in cam
skirt extends well below the crankshaft center line position, the push rod holes are angled four
and incorporates seven main bearings. The degrees and the air compressor angled outboard.
bearing caps are made of ductile iron and use The crank and cam timing gears do not mesh
buttress screws at the intermediate locations. directly, but power transmission occurs through
Replaceable wet-dry sleeves line the cylinder an idler gear mounted in an idler gear bore in the
bore. front face of the cylinder block. The right-front
flange on the cylinder block provides a mounting
surface for the fuel supply pump.
40

Figure 40 — Cylinder Block

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

The main oil gallery runs along the left side of the Current-production cylinder blocks were changed
block. A second oil gallery — the valve lifter/EUP to accommodate a redesigned oil cooler/filter
oil supply gallery — runs along the right side of mounting arrangement. Early-production engines
the block. The valve lifter bores directly intersect used an externally drained Centri-Max® filter.
this right-side gallery, while oil is supplied to the This arrangement has been replaced by the
EUP by six passages drilled from the block’s right internally drained Centri-Max PLUS filter on
side, through the EUP bore and into the adjacent current-production engines. The major change to
valve lifter bore. The six holes along the block’s the cylinder block is in the four-bolt oil filter
right side are closed off with pipe plugs. pedestal mounting pad located at the center left-
hand side of the block. With the elimination of the
Both the left- and right-side oil galleries are drilled externally drained Centri-Max® filter, two internal
from the front and the rear, but do not meet at the drain holes are now cast into this mounting pad.
center. Oil is supplied to the valve lifter/EUP oil These drain holes allow the Centri-Max® PLUS
gallery through drilled passages from the No. 2 drain oil to pass directly into the crankcase. The
and No. 5 cam bushings. An annulus in No. 2 and two 3/4-inch “as-cast” holes are visible inside the
No. 5 main bearing bores, as well as the groove crankcase on either side of the No. 4 main
in the upper bearing inserts, ensures a high bearing bulkhead, between Nos. 3 and 4 piston
volume of oil to the lifter/EUP gallery. cooling nozzles. The external oil drain port in the
cylinder block used for the externally drained
Internal fuel supply and return galleries for the Centri-Max® filter is covered with a block-off
unit pumps are gun-drilled axially, the full length plate.
of the block’s right side just below the unit pump
mounting flange surface.

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

41

Figure 41 — Oil Filter Pedestal Mounting Pad and External Oil Drain Block-Off Plate

1. Oil Passage — Oil Pump-to-Oil Cooler and Filters 3. External Oil Drain Block-Off Plate
2. Internal Drain Holes

The new internally drained Centri-Max® PLUS

filter requires the two internal drain cavities in the
cylinder block. The same cylinder blocks,
however, are used to service engines having
either the externally drained Centri-Max®, or the
internally drained Centri-Max® PLUS filter
assemblies. When a block is used for an engine
equipped with the externally drained Centri-Max
filter, the oil drain cavities are not functional.

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

Crankshaft Block Heater for Front (Water
The crankshaft is fully counterbalanced and has Pump) Location
induction hardened journals. There are seven The engine accepts a straight element unit in the
main bearings with thrust washers located at the rear location. Front installations require a curved-
center main bearing (position No. 4) to absorb element heater (Figure 42). This curved element
fore and aft end thrust. Crankshaft extension at is located inside the lower part of the water pump
the forward end carries the main drive gear, housing, which has been revised to
vibration damper and accessory drive pulleys. accommodate it. With factory installations, CH/CL
The main drive gear has a shrink fit and the models use the rear location, while RD, MR and
vibration damper hub has a press fit. The main other Macungie-built models use the front
drive gear is keyed to the crankshaft for proper location.
assembly and engine timing. The flywheel is 42
mounted to a flange at the rear of the crankshaft.
Two seals, one at the front and one at the rear,
prevent engine lubricating oil from leaking around
the ends of the crankshaft.

Bearing caps are furnished with the crankcase

and support the crankshaft in true alignment.
Webs integral to the crankcase provide the upper
half of the main bearing supports. Removable
caps provide the lower support and are held in
position with capscrews. The bearing caps are
not interchangeable and each has a number
stamped on it which signifies its correct location
and alignment in the crankcase. The caps are
Figure 42 — Straight and Curved Block Heaters
numbered 1 through 7, with the No. 1 main
bearing cap at the front of the engine. The
bearing inserts are precision-designed, and are
positioned between the crankshaft and
crankcase, and between the crankshaft and the
bearing caps. Thrust flanges to support the thrust
washers are located at the center main bearing
(No. 4).

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

Cylinder Head exhaust valves per cylinder. Circular grooves
correspond with the fire ring bead on the cylinder
The cast iron cylinder head (Figure 43) is sleeves. This design sets the fire ring over the
constructed using a special iron alloy. The head liner. With the cylinder head installed and the
contains cored inlet, exhaust and coolant bolts tightened to specification, the liner coining
passages, drilled oil passages, replaceable inlet bead extrudes the fire ring into the cylinder head
and exhaust guides and seats, various drilled groove, providing a positive combustion pressure
passages and tapped holes. Each cylinder head seal.
covers three cylinders and has two inlet and two 43

Figure 43 — E-Tech™ Cylinder Head

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

Some characteristics of the E-Tech™ cylinder r Lower exhaust stud holes intersect with
head are not visually evident, but are still push rod holes; upper exhaust holes may
significant (Figure 44). They include the following intersect as well. This requires that all
listed items: exhaust studs be sealed at installation to
prevent oil weepage.
r Push rod holes are angled at four degrees
due to outboard location of camshaft.
r Large nozzle sleeve diameter to
accommodate 22-mm nozzle holder E-Tech™ and E7 cylinder heads cannot be
assembly. interchanged because of the differences in the
r Water-jacket casting designed to improve machining.
coolant flow. 44

Figure 44 — Cylinder Head and Cover

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

Cylinder Head Gasket
E7 and E-Tech™ engines use the same fire ring,
but a different cylinder head gasket. The gaskets
are identical except for obvious differences at the
right-side push rod cutout areas. The right-side
edge of the E7 gasket is straight, except for
protrusions at the four right-side head bolt holes.
The E-Tech™ gasket has these protruded areas
as well, but also has six larger protrusions at the
push rod hole cutouts (Figure 45). Care must be
exercised to use the proper gasket only on the
engine for which it is designed.
45

Figure 45 — E-Tech™ Head Gasket

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

Gear Train The larger camshaft on the E-Tech™ had to be
relocated upward and outward from the original
The gear train of the E-Tech™ engine (Figure 46) E7 location in order for the engine camshaft to
is designed to accommodate the large diameter drive the unit pumps. This placed the camshaft
camshaft and the addition of electronic unit further away from the crankshaft and, as a result,
pumps. The major changes include all new gears, larger timing gears are required. An idler gear is
an added idler gear, and camshaft and auxiliary used between the crank and cam gears. This
gears that rotate in opposite directions than the keeps the gear sizes from becoming too large
E7. In addition, the power steering pump and air and keeps the engine timing gear flange and
compressor rotate in opposite directions and the timing gear cover from requiring enlargement.
oil pump drive gear helix has been reversed to 46

maintain pumping direction.

Figure 46 — E-Tech™ Gear Train

1. Fuel Pump Gear 4. Crankshaft Gear

2. Camshaft Gear 5. Auxiliary Shaft Gear
3. Idler Gear

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

Power Steering Pump
E7 and E-Tech™ engines have the capability of
There are 45 gear teeth on the crankshaft gear, driving a power steering pump from either the
90 teeth on the camshaft gear and 48 on the idler front or rear of the auxiliary shaft. Naturally, the
gear. Because the idler gear has 3 more teeth direction of rotation of a front power steering
than the crankshaft gear, the timing marks pump is opposite that of a rear power steering
(Figure 47) align only once every 16 revolutions pump. For example, the E-Tech™ auxiliary shaft
of the crankshaft. This is called a “hunting tooth” has a direction of rotation opposite that of the E7,
system. while an E7 front-mounted, power steering pump
47
has the same direction of rotation as an E-Tech™
rear-mounted, power steering pump.

Always refer to part number specification

information when installing a power steering
pump to ensure that the correct part with the
correct direction of rotation is being used.
Installing a power steering pump with the wrong
direction of rotation will result in pump failure and
inoperative power steering.

Vibration Damper Hub

Figure 47 — Timing Marks Because the E-Tech™ engine timing gears are
wider than those used in the E7, the E-Tech™
Because of the addition of an idler gear, the vibration damper hub is 3/8 inch shorter than the
E-Tech™ engine camshaft rotates in the opposite E7 hub (Figure 48). The hubs look the same, but
direction of the camshaft in the E7 engine. The are different lengths. Always make sure the
additional gearing also changes rotation direction correct vibration damper is used for the correct
for the air compressor and the power steering engine model.
pump. However, the oil pump drive gear helix has 48

been changed to keep the same oil pump

direction of rotation.

Air Compressor
E7 and E-Tech™ air compressors have the same
internal components, as the air compressor
functions equally well with either direction of
rotation. There are, however, some external
differences between the engines and air
compressors, which prevent the compressors
from being interchangeable between the two
engines.

The E-Tech™ air compressor benefits from the

Figure 48 — Vibration Damper Hub
22% faster auxiliary shaft speed with quicker
pump-up times, faster air-system recovery and
1. E-Tech™ Hub 2. E7 Hub
less operating time under load.

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

Front Cover 50

Refer to Figure 49.

The front cover has been designed with a boss

for the automatic belt tensioner, room for the idler
gear, a mounting for the crankcase breather, and
a boss for the engine position sensor.
49

Figure 49 — Front Cover

CRANKCASE BREATHER
A noticeable feature of the front cover is the Figure 50 — Crankcase Breather Operation
crankcase ventilation assembly. The E-Tech™ (Cast-Aluminum Housing Shown)
engine has a crankcase breather filter assembly
which mounts on the engine front timing gear
cover. This system traps, collects and returns oil
to the engine crankcase that would otherwise be
lost with blow-by gases (Figure 50). Early-production engines are equipped with a
cast-aluminum crankcase breather housing,
During operation, blow-by gases from the engine whereas, current-production engines are
pass upward through the filter element, then equipped with a housing made of fiberglass-
down and out through the center standpipe, reinforced nylon (Figure 51). The breather
which exits from the canister lower-outboard side. element, housing mounting gasket and O-rings
When blow-by gases pass through the filter are NOT interchangeable between the two
element, oil collects on element surfaces and housing designs.
then drains back into the crankcase.
The canister lid and element are removable to
allow element cleaning.

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

51

Figure 51 — Crankcase Breather (Current Production)

1. Fiberglass-Reinforced Nylon Housing 4. Filter Element

2. Cover 5. Assembly Mounting O-Ring/Gasket
3. Cover O-Ring

Centri-Max® Oil Filter Breather Vent MAIN OIL GALLERY

The oil filter vent line between the cylinder head The main oil gallery on the E-Tech™ is the same
cover and the filter mounting adapter on the E7 as the E7 oil gallery with these exceptions:
engine is not used on the E-Tech™ engine. The On early-production engines, a special cross-
vent line is replaced by a vent-to-atmosphere drilled plug was used at the front to facilitate oil
fitting on the filter mounting adapter. flow to the idler gear bore and No. 1 main bearing
bore. This special plug was factory-installed in
the cylinder blocks and should not be removed.
Lubrication System For current production, the block is machined to
accept a 3/4-inch cup plug in place of the special
There are several changes to the lubrication cross-drilled plug (Figure 52).
system of the E-Tech™ engine, as compared to 52

the E7. The major changes are:

r A second oil gallery along the engine right
side that provides oil to the valve roller
followers and EUPs
r An oil pump that has a drive gear helix
opposite that of the E7

Since its introduction, the E-Tech™ engine has

evolved with changes to the oil cooler and oil filter
mounting arrangement. These changes are also
described in this section.

Figure 52 — Cross-Drilled Plug

1. Main Oil Gallery 2. Cup Plug, 3/4-Inch

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

VALVE LIFTER/EUP OIL GALLERY OIL PASSAGES
Refer to Figure 53. r The passage from the main oil gallery to the
No. 1 main bearing bore intersects the idler
A second oil gallery, located above the camshaft, gear hub bore to provide lubrication to the
supplies oil to the valve lifter bores and EUP idler gear bushing.
bores. Oil is fed to this gallery by drilled passages
r There are two oil annulus passages in the
from the No. 2 and No. 5 cam bores which also
No. 2 and No. 5 main bearing bores. These
feed oil to the cylinder head rocker arm shaft and
passages, together with the groove in the
engine brake assemblies. The No. 2 and No. 5
upper bearing inserts, ensure a high volume
main bearing bores are grooved to satisfy the
of oil to the right-side oil gallery.
additional oil flow required by this second oil
gallery. The tappet guide pins in the EUP bores r Valve lifter (roller follower) bores intersect
are factory-installed in all cylinder blocks and the right-side oil gallery.
should not be removed.
r Passages drilled through each EUP bore
and into the adjacent valve lifter bore
provide oil feed to each EUP.
53

Figure 53 — Sectioned View, Front of E-Tech™ Engine Block

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

OIL PUMP The E-Tech™ auxiliary shaft speed or rpm is 22%
faster than that of the E7. As a result, the
Due to the addition of an idler gear, the auxiliary
E-Tech™ oil pump (which has slower ratio oil
shaft on the E-Tech™ engine turns the opposite
pump gears) turns 6% faster than the E7. This
direction of the E7 auxiliary shaft. In order for the
provides increased lubricating capacity. Also, the
E-Tech™ oil pump to turn the same direction as
auxiliary shaft used on the E-Tech™ engine
the E7 pump, the gear set helixes are different.
(Figure 55) is through-drilled to carry oil to the
rear auxiliary shaft bushing. This is different from
On the E-Tech™, driving thrust load of the shaft
the E7 engine, which provides oil to the rear
pumping gears is toward the pump housing and
bushing through a cylinder block oil passage.
not toward the pump cover, as with the E7
engine. Refer to Figure 54.

The E-Tech™ auxiliary shaft is identified by three

painted stripes (early production) or three
r An improper drive gear on the oil pump will
machined circumferential cuts (later production)
prevent oil pump installation, assuming a
in front of the stamped part number.
correct gear is on the auxiliary shaft.
55
r If an oil pump and an auxiliary shaft
assembly were replaced, two improper
gears could be installed, and engine failure
would result.
r In replacing any of these critical parts,
always refer to part number information in
the MACK Parts System to ensure the
correct component is being used.
54

Figure 55 — Auxiliary Shaft

Figure 54 — Oil Pump Drive Gears

1. E7 Oil Pump Gear 3. E-Tech™ Oil Pump Gear

(12 Teeth) (13 Teeth)
2. E7 Aux. Pump Gear 4. E-Tech™ Aux. Shaft
(18 Teeth) Gear (17 Teeth)

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

OIL COOLER AND FILTER MOUNTING 56

BRACKET
Early-production E-Tech™ engines retained the
same removable bundle-type oil cooler and filter
arrangement as the E7. Current-production
engines, however, have a plate-type oil cooler
and a redesigned oil filter mounting arrangement.
The arrangement includes a new centrifugal oil
filter assembly, called Centri-Max® PLUS, that is
inverted and mounted on top of the bracket. Also,
with this arrangement, the external oil drain is
eliminated.

On current-production engines, the main member

to which the oil cooler and oil filters are mounted
is a new one-piece aluminum casting which bolts
to the four-bolt pad on the cylinder block. An oil
drain passage within the casting allows the oil
from the Centri-Max® PLUS filter to drain back to
the crankcase.

Figure 56 — Oil Cooler/Filter Mounting Bracket

1. Oil Cooler 3. Oil Filter Mounting

2. Centri-Max® PLUS Oil Bracket
Filter 4. Spin-On, Full-Flow Oil
Filters

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

Ports for the V-MAC III oil pressure and oil pressure for other items such as a turbo-
temperature sensors are located on this mounting unloader, REPTO, a mechanical oil pressure
assembly. Remote oil supply ports are provided gauge or a remote-mounted centrifugal oil filter.
for the turbocharger, and also to supply oil 57

Figure 57 — Oil Supply Ports

1. Turbocharger Oil Supply Port 4. Oil Pressure Sensor

2. Oil Temperature Sensor Harness Connectors 5. Oil Temperature Sensor Port
3. Oil Supply Port for REPTO, Turbo Unloader, Remote- 6. Oil Supply Port for Mechanical Oil Pressure Dashboard
Mounted Oil Filter Gauge

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

OIL FILTERS CENTRI-MAX® PLUS OIL FILTER ASSEMBLY
The oil filters on the E-Tech™ are the same as The Centri-Max® PLUS oil filter assembly on
those used on the E7 engine. However, the current-production engines is mounted at the top
Centri-Max® vent line is not used on the E-Tech™ of the oil filter mounting bracket assembly,
engine; a breather vent fitting is used in its place. between, and outboard of the two full-flow spin-
on filters. It is mounted in an inverted position,
opposite the way in which the externally drained
Centri-Max® filter is mounted on early-production
engines.
58

Figure 58 — Centri-Max® PLUS Oil Filter Assembly

1. Cover Bolt 3. Centri-Max® PLUS Rotor (Part No. 236GB245M)

2. Centri-Max® PLUS Cover Assembly 4. O-Ring

OIL COOLER 59

The removable bundle-type oil cooler used on

early-production engines has been replaced by a
single-piece, plate-type design on current-
production engines. The plate-type oil cooler has
a stainless steel housing and integral water inlet
and outlet tubes. The cooler bolts directly to the
aluminum oil filter mounting bracket with two bolts
at each one of the oil ports.

Figure 59 — Plate-Type Oil Cooler Assembly

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

A 2-1/4-inch diameter steel coolant tube connects later engines, the O-ring connection was replaced
the oil cooler water outlet to the water pump inlet. by a hose connection. The most commonly used
The tube connects to the water pump with a tube has two smaller tubes attached to the main
flange, and a gasket is used at the joint between tube (one tube for the thermostat bypass and the
the water pump and tube flange. On earlier other for the water line to the surge tank). Other
engines, the coolant tube connects to the oil chassis models use variations of this tube
cooler water outlet by an O-ring connection. On assembly.
60

Figure 60 — Oil Cooler-to-Water Pump Inlet Line

1. Oil Cooler-to-Water Pump Coolant Tube 4. Oil Cooler

2. Thermostat Bypass Tube 5. Hose Connection
3. Coolant Line to Surge Tank

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

OIL COOLER DE-AERATION LINE of the thermostat housing. This replaces the steel
line used on CH model chassis with the
To vent air which may otherwise become trapped
removable bundle-type oil cooler. The de-
in the plate-type oil cooler when filling the cooling
aeration line is made from 1/4-inch inside
system with coolant, a de-aeration line has been
diameter (1/2-inch outside diameter) silicone
added. This line is routed from the oil cooler top
heater hose, and is protected from rubbing and
left-front corner to the top front of the water
chafing by length of convoluted tubing.
manifold. CH model chassis have an additional 61
vent line from the top of the water pump to the top

Figure 61 — Oil Cooler De-Aeration Line

1. De-Aeration Line 3. Oil Cooler

2. Convoluted Tubing

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DESCRIPTION & OPERATION

GLOSSARY OF TERMS Idler Tensioner
An automatic belt tensioning device designed to
Breather Canister maintain optimum tension under varying engine
A canister through which blow-by gases are speeds and load. The idler tensioner is optional
filtered to remove engine oil for return of oil to the on the E-Tech™ engine.
crankcase. The canister is mounted on the
engine front cover. Poly-V Belt
A multi-ribbed belt design which is incorporated
Breather Filter into a single drive belt and pulley system at the
A meshed metal filtration element inside the front of the E-Tech™ engine.
breather canister. The element can be removed,
cleaned and reinstalled in the canister. Pump Line Nozzles (PLN)
A fuel injection system using a single multi-
Electronic Unit Pump (EUP) plunger fuel injection pump supplying fuel to
individual nozzles at each cylinder. (This system
An electronically controlled fuel injection pump, applies to the E7 engine only and not the
one for each cylinder of an engine. The electronic E-Tech™.)
unit pumps are actuated by roller followers and
lobes on the engine camshaft. Roller Follower

Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) A type of lifter with an axle-mounted roller that
rides on (or follows) a camshaft lobe. The rolling
A microprocessor-based controller, sometimes motion of this design provides increased load
referred to as a module, mounted on the right or capacity with less friction than the flat-faced lifter
left side of the E-Tech™ engine. With the MACK design. Roller followers are used to provide the
V-MAC III system, the EECU primarily controls lifting action for the electronic unit pumps and the
fuel timing and delivery, fan operation, engine intake and exhaust valves on the E-Tech™
protection functions and engine brake operation. engine.

H-Ring Tappet Guide Pin

A type of guide ring used to prevent axial rotation A pin used to prevent axial rotation of an EUP
of the valve roller follower. On the E-Tech™ tappet. The pin is pressed into the cylinder block
engine, a ring is press-fit into each valve lifter EUP tappet bore wall and fits into a slot in the
bore. tappet.

Idler Gear Vehicle Control Unit (VECU)

A timing gear positioned between the crankshaft A microprocessor-based controller, sometimes
and camshaft gears in the front gear train of the referred to as a module, mounted in the cab,
E-Tech™ engine. inside the passenger-side dash panel. With the
MACK V-MAC III system, the VECU controls
engine speed, cruise control, accessory relay
controls, idle shutdown, and trip recorder
functions.

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NOTES

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TROUBLESHOOTING

TROUBLESHOOTING

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TROUBLESHOOTING
ENGINE SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS Also, refer to the V-MAC III service manual,
8-211, for applicable blink code information.
V-MAC III Diagnostics

When operating in cold weather, fuel waxing can

cause many of the problems described below.
Also, water in the fuel can damage unit pumps
and nozzles. Be sure to check for water in the fuel
and/or fuel congealing before proceeding to
troubleshoot a problem.

ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK

Possible Cause Correction

1. Batteries have low output. 1. Check the batteries. Charge or replace as required.
2. Loose or corroded battery or ground 2. Clean and tighten battery and ground connections.
connections.
3. Broken or corroded wires. 3. Check voltage at the following connections:
— Switch to starter
— Battery to starter
Replace as required.
4. Faulty starter or starter solenoid. 4. Check operation of starter and solenoid. Repair as required.
5. Faulty key switch. 5. Replace key switch.
6. Internal seizure. 6. Bar the engine over one complete revolution. If the engine cannot
be turned, internal damage is indicated. Disassemble engine and
repair as required.

ENGINE CRANKS — WILL NOT START

Possible Cause Correction

1. Slow cranking speed. 1. Check corrections listed in preceding chart, ENGINE WILL NOT
CRANK.
2. Code(s) present. 2. Correct cause of code(s). Refer to ENGINE MISFIRES —
CODE(S) PRESENT chart.
3. No fuel to engine. 3. Check for fuel in the fuel tank. Check for plugged fuel tank
connections, restricted or kinked fuel suction lines, fuel transfer
pump failure or clogged fuel filters.
4. Defective fuel transfer pump. 4. Check transfer pump for minimum output pressure. Change fuel
filters if low. Look for air leaks and recheck pressure. If still below
minimum, replace transfer pump.
5. Poor quality fuel, or water in fuel. 5. Drain fuel from tank. Replace fuel filters and fill fuel tank with
MACK-specified diesel fuel.
6. Incorrect engine oil viscosity. 6. Drain oil. Replace oil filters and fill crankcase with recommended
grade oil.
7. Low compression. 7. Check cylinder compression. If low, refer to LOW
COMPRESSION chart.
8. Faulty EUP fuel-return check valve. 8. Check for free poppet movement.
9. Faulty electrical connections. 9. Check electrical connections at ECU, engine position and engine-
speed sensor connections.

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TROUBLESHOOTING
ENGINE MISFIRES — CODE(S) PRESENT

Possible Cause Correction

1. Code(s) present. 1. Correct cause of code(s). Check harness, battery and ground
connections. If code(s) remains, replace ECU. If code is still
present after replacing ECU, reinstall original ECU and refer to
item 7 in ENGINE MISFIRES — NO CODE(S) chart.

ENGINE MISFIRES — NO CODE(S)

Possible Cause Correction
1. Broken or leaking high-pressure fuel lines. 1. Check for fuel leaks. Repair as necessary.
2. Poor quality fuel, or water or dirt in fuel. 2. Drain fuel from tanks. Replace fuel filters and fill tank with MACK-
specified diesel fuel.
3. Air in fuel system. 3. Check fuel system for air leaks. Repair as necessary. (Air
generally gets into the fuel system on suction side of the fuel
pump.)
4. Low fuel supply pressure. 4. Check to be sure there is fuel in the fuel tank. Check for sharp
bends or kinks in the fuel line between the fuel tank and the fuel
transfer pump. Also, check for clogged suction pipe (in the fuel
tank) or a plugged fuel suction hose. Check for air in the fuel
system, and check the fuel pressure. If the pressure is lower than
specified, replace the fuel filters. Inspect fuel return check valve
for free-moving poppet. If still low, replace the transfer pump.
5. Improper valve lash adjustment. 5. Check adjustment. Correct as necessary.
6. Worn camshaft lobe. 6. With valve lash properly adjusted, check rocker arm movement. If
not within specifications, replace worn parts.
7. Valves not seating properly. 7. Remove heads, recondition valves as required, and reinstall
heads.
8. Defective fuel injection nozzles or unit pump. 8. Note: The following test will register a fault in the ECU which may
be cleared after test is completed.
Make sure all EUP terminal wires are connected and tight. With
the engine operating at low idle (625–675 rpm), connect a jumper
wire across the EUP terminals one cylinder at a time. If the
cylinder is firing correctly, the engine sound will change. If a
cylinder does not change the engine sound, that cylinder is not
firing correctly.
If a cylinder is not firing correctly, determine if a fuel pulse is
present in the high-pressure injection line by touching the line
firmly with a screwdriver about one inch from the EUP.
Note: When it is difficult to determine if the problem is the EUP or
the nozzle, first switch the EUP with that of an adjacent cylinder
and recheck for a pulse in both affected cylinders. If the problem
follows with the EUP, then the EUP is at fault. If the problem
remains with the original cylinder, then the nozzle may be at fault.
Compare the pulse felt with the EUP shorted vs. not shorted. If a
normal pulse is detected when the EUP is not shorted, the
problem may be in the injection nozzle or the engine valve
adjustment. First check engine valve adjustment. If OK, repair or
replace the nozzle.
If no pulse is detected, replace the unit pump for that cylinder.
Note: A tachometer that senses injection-line pressure can also
be used to check if pulse is present (use J 39638 Tech Tach or
equivalent). If an engine rpm is recorded on the tachometer, the
problem may be in the injection nozzle or the engine valve
adjustment. If no reading is obtained, replace the unit pump for
that cylinder.
9. Cylinder head gasket leakage. 9. Check for visible signs of leakage, coolant in the oil, or traces of
oil in the coolant. Use a compression tester to check each
cylinder. Replace cylinder head gasket if necessary.

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ENGINE STALLS AT LOW SPEEDS

Possible Cause Correction

1. Code(s) present. 1. Correct cause of code(s).
2. Cylinder cutting out. 2. Isolate cylinder and determine cause of cutting out. Refer to item
8 in ENGINE MISFIRES — NO CODE(S) chart.
3. Idle speed set too low. 3. Check idle setting. Adjust as necessary.
4. High parasitic load. 4. Check for excessive loading due to engaged auxiliary
attachments.
5. Fuel tank vent clogged or partially clogged. 5. Check fuel tank vents. Repair as necessary.
6. Low fuel supply. 6. Check for sufficient fuel in the fuel tank. Check fuel filters, replace
if necessary. Check fuel supply lines for restrictions or air in the
system. Check fuel return check valve for free-moving poppet.
Check fuel pressure and repair or replace supply pump as
required.
7. Defective fuel injection nozzle. 7. Isolate defective nozzle and replace. Refer to item 8 in ENGINE
MISFIRES — NO CODE(S) chart.
8. Defective unit pump. 8. Refer to item 8 in ENGINE MISFIRES — NO CODE(S) chart.

ERRATIC ENGINE SPEED

Possible Cause Correction

1. Air leaks in fuel suction line. 1. Check for air leaks. Repair as necessary.

LOW POWER

Possible Cause Correction

1. Code(s) present. 1. Correct cause of code(s).
2. Intercooler cracked or leaking. 2. Inspect intercooler, pressure-test, and repair or replace as
required.
3. Plugged fuel tank vents. 3. Clean the fuel tank vents.
4. Restrictions in the air intake system such as 4. Check for restrictions in the air intake system. Check the air
clogged air filter(s). pressure in the air intake manifold. Replace the air filter and make
necessary repairs to the air intake system.
5. Poor quality fuel. 5. Drain fuel tank(s), clean system and replace fuel filters. Fill tank
with MACK-specified diesel fuel. Bleed system.
6. Low fuel pressure. 6. Check for sufficient fuel in the fuel tank. Check fuel filters, replace
if necessary. Check fuel supply lines for restrictions or air in the
system. Check fuel return check valve for free-moving poppet.
Check fuel pressure and repair or replace supply pump as
required.
7. Improper valve lash adjustment. 7. Adjust valve lash to specified clearance.
8. Fuel-injection nozzle failure. 8. Repair or replace defective nozzle. Refer to item 8 in ENGINE
MISFIRES — NO CODE(S) chart.
9. Turbocharger dirty or malfunctioning. 9. Inspect turbocharger. Clean, repair or replace as required.
10. Exhaust restriction. 10. Check for restrictions in the exhaust system.
11. Low compression. 11. Check items listed under LOW COMPRESSION.
12. Restrictions in intercooler. 12. Perform restriction pressure test. Clean any restrictions.
13. Restrictions in intercooler inlet/outlet tubes. 13. Disconnect tubing and clean restrictions.

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Low power complaints may result from many

factors other than an engine problem. Be sure to
check the chassis and trailer for dragging brakes
and assess the drivetrain combination for
driveability and application (engine-rated bhp,
transmission and rear-axle ratios, tire sizes, etc.).

ENGINE WILL NOT ACHIEVE NO-LOAD GOVERNED RPM

Possible Cause Correction

1. Code(s) present. 1. Correct cause of code(s).

EXCESSIVE BLACK OR GRAY SMOKE

Possible Cause Correction

1. Code(s) present. 1. Correct cause of code(s).
2. Intercooler core leakage. 2. Pressure-test intercooler. If test results are unsatisfactory,
remove, repair or replace intercooler as needed.
3. Intercooler core fin obstructions. 3. Clean intercooler fins.
4. Insufficient air for combustion. 4. Check air cleaner for restrictions. Check inlet manifold pressure,
and inspect the turbocharger for proper operation. Repair or
replace as required.
5. Excessive exhaust back pressure. 5. Check for faulty exhaust piping or restrictions in the muffler.
Repair or replace as required.
6. Improper grade of fuel. 6. Drain fuel from tank(s). Replace fuel filters and fill tank(s) with
MACK-specified diesel fuel.
7. Defective fuel injection nozzle or unit pump. 7. Isolate defective nozzle and replace. Refer to item 8 under
ENGINE MISFIRES — NO CODE(S) chart.
8. Improper engine valve adjustment. 8. Reset valve adjustment.
9. Malfunctioning exhaust/intake valve. 9. Repair cylinder head/valve train.

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EXCESSIVE BLUE OR WHITE SMOKE

Possible Cause Correction

1. Code(s) present. 1. Correct cause of code(s).
2. No code(s) present, faulty cylinder. 2. Isolate faulty cylinder and repair as required.
3. Low fuel pressure. 3. Check fuel lines and filters for blockage.
4. Engine lubricating oil level too high. 4. Drain excess lubricating oil. If the oil is contaminated with either
fuel or coolant, completely drain the oil pan. Change the oil filters.
Locate the source of the leak and correct. Fill with MACK-
specified engine oil. Check the oil level with the dipstick. DO NOT
overfill.
5. Turbocharger passing oil. 5. Check for oil in the inlet manifold. Check for air inlet restriction
(clogged air filter). Repair or replace turbocharger as required.
6. Worn piston rings. 6. Determine and correct the root cause, and repair engine as
required.
7. Engine misfiring or running rough. 7. Check items as outlined in ENGINE MISFIRES — NO CODE(S)
chart.

EXCESSIVE FUEL CONSUMPTION

Possible Cause Correction

1. Code(s) present. 1. Correct cause of code(s).
2. Restrictions in the air induction system. 2. Inspect system. Remove restrictions and replace defective parts
as required.
3. External fuel system leakage. 3. Check external piping on fuel system for signs of fuel leakage.
Repair as required.
4. Defective injection nozzle assembly. 4. Isolate defective nozzle assembly. Repair and replace as
required. Refer to item 8 in ENGINE MISFIRES — NO CODE(S)
chart.
5. Internal engine wear. 5. Determine and correct the root cause, and repair engine as
required.

EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION

Possible Cause Correction

1. External oil leaks. 1. Check engine for visible signs of oil leakage. Look for loose or
stripped oil drain plugs, broken gaskets (cylinder head cover,
etc.), and front and rear oil seal leakage.
2. Turbocharger passing oil. 2. Check for oil in the inlet manifold. Check for excessive inlet
restriction (such as a dirty air filter). Repair/replace air filter or
turbocharger as required.
3. Air compressor passing oil. 3. Repair or replace air compressor.
4. Clogged crankcase breather pipe. 4. Remove obstructions.
5. Excessive exhaust back pressure. 5. Check exhaust pressure. Repair as required.
6. Worn valve stem seals. 6. Replace valve stem seals.
7. Worn valve guides. 7. Check for valve guide wear and replace guides as required.
8. Internal engine wear. 8. Determine and correct the root cause, and repair engine as
required.

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ENGINE OVERHEATS

Possible Cause Correction

1. Coolant level low. 1. Locate cause. Look for leaking gaskets or loose or leaking hoses.
Repair, replace or tighten as required. Replenish coolant.
2. Loose or worn fan belts. 2. Adjust belt tension or replace belts as required.
3. Restricted airflow through radiator. 3. Remove any restrictions from the outer surface of the radiator.
4. Plugged radiator core. 4. Remove, repair or replace radiator as required.
5. Defective radiator pressure cap. 5. Test pressure of the radiator cap. Replace cap if required.
6. Defective coolant thermostat or temperature 6. Check opening temperature of thermostat. Check for correct
gauge. installation. Check temperature gauge and sending unit. Replace
if defective.
7. Viscous (or ON/OFF) fan drive not operating 7. Check fan operation. Repair as required.
properly, or fan improperly positioned.
8. Combustion gases in coolant. 8. Determine point where gases are entering the cooling system.
Repair or replace parts as required.
9. Defective water pump. 9. Remove, repair and reinstall water pump as required.
10. Plugged oil cooler. 10. Remove oil cooler. Disassemble, remove restrictions/replace
parts as required. Reinstall.
11. Winterfront (if equipped) not opened. 11. Open or remove winterfront at specified ambient temperatures.
12. Shutters not opening properly (for chassis 12. Check shutter operation. Repair as required.
equipped with shutters).

HIGH EXHAUST TEMPERATURE

Possible Cause Correction

1. Operating chassis in wrong gear ratio for load, 1. Instruct operator on correct gear selection for load and grade
grade and/or altitude. conditions.
2. Restrictions in the air induction system. 2. Inspect air induction system. Remove restrictions and/or replace
defective parts.
3. Air leaks in the air induction system. 3. Check pressure in the air intake manifold. Look for leaking piping
and/or loose clamps. Make necessary repairs.
4. Leaks in the exhaust system (before the 4. Check exhaust system for leaks. Make necessary repairs.
turbocharger).
5. Restrictions in the exhaust system. 5. Inspect system. Make necessary repairs.
6. Improper valve lash adjustment. 6. Adjust valve lash setting to specified clearance.
7. Defective fuel injection nozzle assembly. 7. Isolate defective nozzle. Refer to item 8 in ENGINE MISFIRES —
NO CODE(S) chart.
High Pyrometer — Normal Boost
8. Loose ducting. 8. Repair loose connections.
9. Intercooler core fin obstructions. 9. Clean intercooler fins.
High Pyrometer — Low Boost
10. Intercooler core leakage. 10. Pressure-test intercooler. Remove, repair or replace intercooler if
test results are unsatisfactory.
11. Dirty turbocharger. 11. Remove turbocharger and clean.
12. Leaks in the pressurized side of the air 12. Check for leaks. Repair as required.
induction system.
13. Blockage in ducting between the air cleaner 13. Check for blockage and repair.
and the turbocharger.

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LOW ENGINE OIL PRESSURE

Possible Cause Correction

1. Oil level insufficient. Oil leaking from oil line, 1. Check engine oil level. Add oil if necessary. Check for oil leaks.
gasket, etc. Repair as required.
2. Incorrect oil viscosity. 2. Drain oil, change oil filters, and fill with the proper grade oil
meeting MACK specifications.
3. Defective oil pressure gauge. 3. Check the operation of the oil pressure gauge. If defective,
replace.
4. Clogged oil filter(s). 4. Replace oil filters. Clean or replace oil cooler. Drain oil and refill
with oil meeting MACK specifications.
5. Engine oil diluted with diesel fuel. 5. Check fuel system for leaks. Make necessary repairs. Drain
diluted oil, change oil filters, and refill with oil meeting MACK
specifications.
6. Defective oil pump. 6. Remove oil pressure relief valve and check condition of seat.
Check that relief valve spring is not sticking, and check for proper
spring tension. Check internal thrust washer. Check cap. Check
assembly parts. Using the incorrect parts will result in incorrect oil
pressure. Make any necessary repairs or install a new relief valve.
7. Oil pump gears not meshing properly. 7. Check mounting arrangement. If the engine has been rebuilt,
check that the gear ratio of the oil pump drive and driven gears
are correct. Incorrect gear combinations will result in immediate
gear failure and possible engine damage.
8. Incorrect oil filter mounting pad gasket. 8. Check for correct oil pad gasket.
9. Excessive clearance between crankshaft and 9. Overhaul the engine. Replace any worn/defective parts.
bearings.

OIL IN THE COOLING SYSTEM

Possible Cause Correction

1. Defective oil cooler core. 1. Disassemble and repair or replace oil cooler core.
2. Blown head gasket. 2. Replace head gasket.
3. Cylinder head porosity. 3. Replace cylinder head.

COOLANT IN ENGINE OIL

Possible Cause Correction

1. Defective oil cooler core. 1. Disassemble and repair or replace oil cooler core.
2. Cylinder head pipe plug leaking. 2. Repair leak.
3. Cylinder head gasket failure. 3. Pressure-test cooling system and repair as required.
4. Cylinder sleeve seat leaking. 4. Pressure-test cooling system and repair as required.
5. Cracked cylinder head. 5. Pressure-test cooling system and repair as required.

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LOW COMPRESSION

Possible Cause Correction

1. Improper valve lash adjustment. 1. Adjust valve lash to specified clearance.
2. Blown head gasket. 2. Replace head gasket.
3. Broken or weak valve springs. 3. Check and replace defective parts as required.
4. Valves not seating properly. 4. Remove, recondition and reinstall heads.
5. Piston rings stuck, worn, broken or improperly 5. Determine and correct root cause and repair engine as required.
seated.
6. Camshaft or valve lifters worn. 6. Replace camshaft and/or valve lifters and perform any other
necessary repairs as required.

FUEL IN LUBE OIL

Possible Cause Correction

1. Excessive idling, especially in cold weather. 1. Minimize idling time and use all recommended cold weather
accessories.
2. Injector nozzle malfunctioning. 2. Remove and pop-test nozzles. Clean or replace nozzles as
required.
3. Unit pump O-ring leaking. 3. Replace O-rings.

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CAMSHAFT TIMING AND LOBE 3. Loosen (back off) the inlet valve rocker
adjusting screw jam nut. Ensure that the
LIFT CHECKS valve yoke is correctly adjusted. Adjust the
[213 CH] inlet valve to zero lash.
4. Position a dial indicator (magnetic-base
Camshaft Timing Check type) probe on the valve spring retainer.
Preload the indicator to 1/2 indicator plunger
Correct camshaft timing is essential for proper travel.
engine performance. Incorrect camshaft timing 5. Bar the engine in the direction of normal
may be suspected if soon after engine overhaul, rotation and carefully observe the direction
lack of performance, unusual noise or excessive in which the indicator needle travels. Use the
smoke is reported. dial indicator to determine when the inlet
valve is fully open.
6. Stop rotating the engine when travel of the
On the E-Tech™ engine, timing marks are dial indicator needle stops. If the dial
stamped on the flywheel just as they are on the indicator needle reverses direction, the full-
E7 engine. The E-Tech™ engine, however, does open position is passed. Repeat the
not have a timing pointer since setting injection procedure if this occurs.
pump-to-engine timing is not necessary. The 7. Remove the timing hole cover from the
flywheel timing marks can be used to check the flywheel housing so that the flywheel timing
camshaft-to-crankshaft timing by looking up marks can be viewed. Engine timing should
through the hole where the timing pointer would be approximately 26 degrees. A difference
be located and viewing the timing marks. A pencil of approximately 10 degrees indicates that
point may be inserted through the timing pointer the crankshaft-to-camshaft timing gears may
hole to easily pinpoint the timing marks on the be mismatched one tooth.
scale.
Camshaft Lobe Lift Check
When diagnosing potential lifter or camshaft
failures, 0.030 inch (0.76 mm) less than the lift of
Camshaft timing can be checked using either the
a new camshaft is considered the minimum
cylinder No. 3 or No. 4 inlet valve. For example
acceptable camshaft lobe lift for used
purposes, the No. 3 cylinder will be used in the
components. Intake lobe lift differs depending on
steps below.
the camshaft part number. Camshaft lobe lift is
measured by using a dial indicator at the push
1. Remove the cylinder head cover over rod with the rocker arm adjusted to zero lash.
cylinder No. 3.
2. Locate the inlet valves for No. 3 cylinder (the
sixth valve set from the front of engine). Bar
the engine to position the No. 3 piston at top
dead center (TDC) of the compression
stroke.

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CHASSIS-MOUNTED CHARGE Hot turbocharged air, varying in pressure from
0.0–25 psi (0.0–172 kPa), passes through core
AIR COOLING TESTS tubes where heat is transferred to the ambient air
[233 FA] by heat-exchanging fins.

Front-section core construction consists of a

General Information series of cold bars, cold fins and tube plates.
Side-section core construction consists of a
The Chassis-Mounted Charge Air Cooling series of hot bars and hot fins.
(CMCAC) system cools hot turbocharged air
before it enters the engine intake manifold. The
CMCAC system uses ambient air as a cooling Special Tool Required
medium by allowing it to pass through a core
equipped with heat-exchanging fins. r Charge Air Cooler Pressure Fixture J 41473

CMCAC Troubleshooting

Symptom Probable Cause Remedy

Normal Boost — High Pyrometer 1. Core fin obstructions. 1. Clean core fins.
Low Boost — High Pyrometer 1. Restriction in ducting between air 1. Check for blockage and clean.
cleaner and turbo.
2. Dirty turbocharger. 2. Clean turbocharger.
3. Leaks in the pressurized side of the 3. Check for and repair leaks.
induction system.
4. Inlet manifold leak. 4. Check for loose or missing fittings,
plugs, and/or damaged manifold-
to-cylinder head gaskets. Replace
missing parts, and repair loose
connections.
5. Open petcock (if equipped). 5. Close petcock.
6. Core leakage. 6. Pressure-test core. Remove, repair
or replace core if test results are
not satisfactory.
Low Power 1. Restrictions in cooler. 1. Perform restriction pressure test.
Clean out restriction.
2. Restrictions in cooler inlet and 2. Disconnect and clean obstructions.
outlet tubes.

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CMCAC Pressure Test 5. When plugs are secured, attach an air line
(fitted to a pressure regulator and gauge) to
Refer to Figure 62. the air line adapter in the core outlet
1. Remove the air ducting from core. opening.

2. Plug the core inlet opening. 6. Pressurize the system to 30 psi (207 kPa).

3. Insert a plug with an air line adapter in the 7. Shut off the air source. Pressure should not
core outlet opening. drop more than 5 psi (35 kPa) within
15 seconds. Repair or replace the core if
pressure drop exceeds specification.
8. Carefully release pressure from the system.
Charged air cooler pressure fixture J 41473 can 9. After repairing or replacing the core,
be used on coolers with flange connections. reconnect ducting. Tighten clamp nuts until
clamp spring is fully compressed.
4. Connect a safety chain or cable to both
plugs.

When the spring is fully compressed, the torque

applied on the nut is generally between 40–55 lb-in
Stand clear of the plug area when system is (4.5–6.2 N•m).
pressurized.
62

Figure 62 — CMCAC Pressure Test

1. Core Inlet 4. Safety Chain

2. Core Outlet 5. Air Pressure Regulator and Gauge (J 41473)
3. Plug (Part of J 41473)

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Restriction Pressure Test

If using manometers for this test, the difference

between readings should not exceed 4 in-Hg
Perform the restriction pressure test at maximum (13.5 kPa).
full-load condition.
4. Stop the engine.
A restriction in the internal portion of the cooler 5. If the pressure drop is higher than the
may interfere with proper airflow and can result in specified amount, remove the cooler from
excessively high pyrometer readings. To perform the vehicle and flush the inside. Follow the
a restriction pressure test, use the following procedure covered under CMCAC
procedure: Preventive Maintenance to remove any
1. Install pressure gauge lines at both the inlet deposits that may be present. Reinstall the
and outlet tubes of the charge air cooler. cooler and then pressure-test the cooler.
6. If the cooler passes the restriction and
pressure tests, remove the test equipment,
reinstall inlet and outlet tubes, hoses and
Some units are equipped with connection ports clamps. Reinstall the gauge-port plugs on
on the inward sides of the inlet and outlet charge systems so equipped. Tighten the clamps to
cooler tubes. If so equipped, the plugs can be 38 lb-in (4.3 N•m).
removed from these ports and the gauge lines
connected. If not, adapters with gauge ports must
be installed in the cooler inlet and outlet tubes.
The clamp springs must always be located on the
2. Install the appropriate pressure gauge(s) to underside of the tube to avoid damaging the hood
the cooler inlet and outlet tubes. when closed.
3. Start the engine and while operating it at full-
load condition, read the pressure drop
across the cooler.
r If the pressure drop is higher than 2 psi
(13.79 kPa) at full-load condition, the
cooler has internal restrictions.
r If the pressure drop is lower than 2 psi
(13.79 kPa), the cooler is OK and can
remain in service.

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Core Inspection damage is encountered. To ensure that the
CMCAC system will function properly after repair
GUIDELINES or replacement, a pressure/leak test is
With the exception of straightening minor bends recommended.
in the cold fins, the CMCAC core is not repairable
and should be replaced when more extensive

Recommended Repair
Damage Core Failures Procedure System Check
Repairable Bent cold fins Straighten with small Perform pressure/leak test.
screwdriver or pair of small
needlenose pliers.
Nonrepairable All header tank-to-core No repair procedure is Perform pressure/leak test.
separations recommended — replace
unit.
All header tank cracks No repair procedure is Perform pressure/leak test.
recommended — replace
unit.
Internal fins damaged and No repair procedure is Perform pressure/leak test.
separated from tube plate recommended — replace
unit.
Tube blockage No repair procedure is Perform pressure/leak test.
recommended — replace
unit.
Tube/plate cracks or welds, No repair procedure is Perform pressure/leak test.
cold bar separations or recommended — replace
openings unit.
Excessive cold fin damage No repair procedure is Perform pressure/leak test.
(original shape of fins recommended — replace
distorted beyond repair) unit.

INSPECTION 3. Wash with hot, soapy water. Rinse with

clean water and blow dry with compressed
1. Carefully inspect the entire system to
air in the reverse direction of flow.
determine the exact location and extent of
damage. 4. Carefully inspect cooler to ensure
cleanliness.
2. Inspect the cold fins and cold bars that run
horizontally in the cooler.
3. Inspect all brazed or welded joints in the
header tank. Do not use caustic cleaners when flushing the
cooler. Be extremely careful when handling the
CMCAC Preventive Maintenance cooler so as not to damage the core.

In case of engine and/or turbocharger failure, the

charge air cooler should be flushed to make sure
the cooler is free of debris.

FLUSHING PROCEDURE
1. Remove the chassis-mounted cooler and
flush the inside with a safety solvent to
remove oil and other foreign debris.
2. Shake cooler to remove large pieces.

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CYLINDER HEAD AND 63

CYLINDER BLOCK LEAK TEST

PROCEDURE
Verify suspected leaks in the cylinder heads or
cylinder block by pressure testing before deciding
to replace the cylinder head or block. Do not use
magnaflux inspections alone as replacement
criteria.

Before proceeding with the tests, look for coolant

stains around the 3/4-inch NPT plugs on the tops
of the cylinder heads. Check that the plugs are
torqued to 55 lb-ft (75 N•m).
Figure 63 — Cylinder Head Pipe Plugs (3/4-Inch NPT)

1. Cylinder Head 2. Pipe Plugs

Cylinder head pipe plugs used on engines
manufactured April 1, 1999 or later (beginning 2. Before removing the thermostat, drain
with engine serial number series 9F) have coolant from the cooling system until the
encapsulated epoxy sealant applied to the coolant level is below the thermostat
threads. These pipe plugs are tightened to housing.
55 lb-ft (75 N•m) at assembly, and the epoxy
locks them in place. These plugs will not turn 3. Remove the thermostat and leave the
when an attempt is made to tighten them. If a thermostat housing open. Install a short
coolant leak at an epoxy-sealed pipe plug is section of hose, approximately 6–8 inches
suspected, the plug may be removed by heating it (152–203 mm) long, on the thermostat
to 400°F (205°C) with a torch. Before reinstalling housing and add enough coolant to fill the
the plug, the epoxy sealant must be thoroughly housing.
cleaned from the pipe plug threads, and the 4. Remove the fan belt from the water pump.
threads in the cylinder head. The plug and the
cylinder head threads must then be cleaned with 5. Start the engine and run at 1000 rpm.
Loctite® Primer T and resealed with Loctite® 277. 6. Observe coolant in the thermostat housing
Reinstall the plug and torque to 55 lb-ft (75 N•m). for air bubbles. This can indicate combustion
pressurization of the cooling system and
possible cylinder head gasket failure. Also,
Also, make sure leakage is not caused by the oil watch for traces of oil which would indicate
cooler or air compressor. Perform the simpler possible cylinder head gasket or oil passage
checks first to prevent unnecessary engine leakage.
disassembly. While performing the following
tests, watch for indications of minor leaks, such
as small bubbles, that can develop into more
severe leaks during engine operation.
It is normal for some air bubbles to form in the
cooling system as a result of the engine warming
Cylinder Head and Head Gasket up to operating temperature.
Check — In Chassis The occurrence of large “gulp-type” movements
of coolant indicates a partially blocked oil cooler
1. Look for coolant stains around the 3/4-inch inlet screen (bundle-type oil cooler only).
NPT pipe plugs on top of the cylinder heads.
Check plug torque. The plug torque
7. Apply a soap-and-water solution between
specification is 55 lb-ft (75 N•m). Refer to
two cylinder heads to check for external
Figure 63.
combustion leakage.

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Cylinder Head Fuel Passages Leak Cylinder Block/Cylinder Head
Check — In Chassis Coolant Passages Leak Check — In
Chassis
Refer to Figure 64.
The symptoms of coolant-in-fuel are a loss of 1. Drain coolant from the engine.
coolant with no apparent external leak, together
with one or more of the following: coolant in fuel 2. Remove the engine oil pan and cylinder
tank, coolant in fuel filter or yellow fuel out of fuel head valve covers.
return line. 3. Remove the water pump assembly and use
a suitable plate and gasket to seal the
1. Disconnect the return fuel interconnecting opening.
tube between the front and rear cylinder 4. Remove the upper and lower hoses from the
heads. Run a line from each cylinder head thermostat housing. Remove the thermostat
into a container. housing and thermostat.
2. Pressurize the cooling system with a 5. Secure a suitable plate and gasket over the
maximum of 15 psi (103 kPa) air pressure thermostat housing opening in the coolant
and look for coolant coming out of a fuel manifold.
return line.
6. Install an air fitting into one of the pipe plug
3. An alternate method is to disconnect the fuel holes in the coolant manifold.
return line at the front of the front cylinder
head. Introduce a maximum air pressure of 7. Reinforce the hose connecting the coolant
25 psi (172 kPa) to the fitting in the cylinder manifold sections by installing a hose clamp
head. Then look for air bubbles in the around the center of the hose to prevent it
coolant. from rupturing during testing.
4. After determining which cylinder head is 8. Remove one of the large pipe plugs from the
suspected of leaking, remove the nozzles water manifold and add hot water to fill the
from that cylinder head and pressurize the cooling system. Increase cylinder block
cooling system with a maximum of 15 psi temperature to 150°F (66°C). Loosen one of
(103 kPa). Look into each nozzle sleeve the pipe plugs near the top of the cylinder
bore for signs of coolant leakage. block to bleed air from the water jacket while
filling. Also open the block drain to allow
5. A cracked or leaking nozzle sleeve should water to flow out. This will help warm the
be replaced as an on-engine repair using the cylinder block. Tighten the loosened pipe
procedures described under Engine plug after all of the trapped air has escaped.
Disassembly procedures in the REPAIR
INSTRUCTIONS section. If after replacing 9. After the cylinder block is sufficiently heated,
the nozzle sleeve(s) the re-pressure test close the block drain and apply
shows that the problem still exists, the approximately 50 psi (345 kPa) air pressure
cylinder head(s) should be replaced. to the air connection.

Do not exceed 50 psi (345 kPa) air pressure.

Damage to seals or cup plugs may result.

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10. Check for coolant leaks at the bottom of
each cylinder bore.
r Coolant leaking between the cylinder Water leaking from the No. 2 or No. 5 cam
sleeve outside diameter and cylinder bushings or from the No. 2 or No. 5 main
block indicates a leaking cylinder bearings can indicate a breakthrough between
sleeve seat. the rocker arm feed passage and the water jacket
r Coolant leaking down the inside (cylinder head).
diameter of the cylinder sleeve
indicates a leaking head gasket.
Refer to the repair procedures in this manual to
correct leaks.
64

Figure 64 — Cylinder Block/Cylinder Head Leak Check (In Chassis)

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Cylinder Head Oil Passage Leak 4. Bolt the modified bracket with air fitting to
the cylinder head over the oil supply
Check — Out of Chassis passage.
Refer to Figure 65. 5. Immerse the cylinder head in water. Heat the
1. Remove the cylinder head from the engine. water and cylinder head to 150°F (66°C).

2. Install a suitable plug to seal the rocker arm 6. Apply up to 50 psi (345 kPa) air pressure to
oil passage at deck side of the head. There the air fitting adapter installed in the rocker
are two ways to plug the hole: arm oil passage. Check for air bubbles. The
formation of air bubbles indicates internal
r Drill and tap the oil passage to accept a leakage between the cylinder head oil
pipe plug. passage and the water jacket.
r Insert a suitable rubber plug and clamp
the plug in position with a C-clamp.
3. Install an air fitting in the rocker arm Do not exceed 50 psi (345 kPa). Damage to seals
passage in the top of the head. Use a or cup plugs may result.
discarded rocker arm bracket with an oil
feed passage. Cut the bracket through the 65

rocker arm shaft bore parallel to the

mounting base surface. Drill and tap the oil
supply passage to accept an air fitting.

Figure 65 — Cylinder Head Oil Passage Leak Check (Out of Chassis)

1. Modified Bracket with Air Fitting 2. Plug (Pipe or Rubber)

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Cylinder Head Coolant Passage 3. Use suitable plate and gasket to seal the
water manifold openings. Install an air fitting
Leak Check — Out of Chassis onto the plate.
Refer to Figure 66. 4. Immerse the cylinder head in water. Heat the
1. Remove cylinder head from the engine. water and head to 150°F (66°C).

2. Fabricate a suitable 3/4-inch thick (19.1 mm) 5. Apply up to 50 psi (345 kPa) air pressure to
steel plate and a 1/4-inch (6.4 mm) rubber the fitting installed in the plate covering the
gasket. The plate must have cutouts for the water manifold opening. Check for air
entire combustion chamber. Position plate bubbles. The formation of air bubbles
and gasket assembly on the underside of indicates that the cylinder head coolant
head and secure with C-clamps, or with passages may be leaking.
66
head bolts if the plate has been drilled for
bolts.

Figure 66 — Cylinder Head Coolant Passage Leak Check (Out of Chassis)

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Cylinder Block Coolant Passage
Leak Check — Out of Chassis
Refer to Figure 67.
1. Fabricate two 3/4-inch thick (19.1 mm) steel
plates to simulate cylinder heads. The plates
must have cutouts for the head capscrews
and liners. Use a 1/4-inch (6.4 mm) thick
rubber gasket as a seal. Install the plates
onto the cylinder block.

As an alternative to step 1, conduct the test using

two known leak-free cylinder heads complete with
gaskets and fire rings in place of the steel plates.
With this alternative, a water manifold (with the
outlet end sealed) can be used to seal off the
cylinder head coolant ports. Fittings can be
installed on the water manifold to introduce the
heated water and air pressure needed for the
test.

2. Remove the water pump assembly and seal

the opening with a suitable plate and rubber
gasket. The plate must be fabricated with
adapters so that water heated to 150°F
(66°C) and pressurized to 50 psi (345 kPa)
can be introduced into the system.
3. Apply approximately 50 psi (345 kPa) air
pressure into the cooling system. Visually
inspect the cylinder block for signs of air and
water leaks.

Do not exceed 50 psi (345 kPa). Damage to seals

or cup plugs may result.

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67

Figure 67 — Cylinder Block Coolant Passage Leak Check (Out of Chassis)

1. Cylinder Block 4. Rubber Gasket

2. 1/4-inch Rubber Gaskets 5. Plate with Air/Water Inlet Fittings
3. 3/4-inch Steel Plates

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ENGINE BRAKE TESTS TEST DRIVE
(MACK E-TECH™ ENGINE 1. Test drive the vehicle and measure intake
WITH J-TECH™ ENGINE manifold boost pressure while operating the
engine brake. Refer to the Table on page 78
BRAKE) for boost pressures.

RETARDING BOOST PRESSURES (PSI)

Operational Tests
MACK E7 300A E-Tech™ Engine (Schwitzer S-300
Before beginning the troubleshooting procedures, Pre-12/99 — S-400S Post 12/99 Turbo)
try to determine the exact nature of the problem. 2100 rpm — 18 psi Boost
Talk to the driver, owner and/or mechanic to
1900 rpm — 17 psi Boost
pinpoint the complaint or problem. The following
checks may be helpful in trying to determine the 1700 rpm — 16 psi Boost
nature of the problem. 1500 rpm — 14 psi Boost
1300 rpm — 10 psi Boost
BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE 1100 rpm — 8 psi Boost
If there is a report of engine or engine brake MACK EM7 275, 300 and E7 310/330 E-Tech™ Engines
noise, remove the engine covers to determine the (Schwitzer S-300 Pre-12/99 — S-400S Post 12/99
Turbo)
cause.
2100 rpm — 19 psi Boost
1. Check for broken or loose parts.
1900 rpm — 18 psi Boost
2. Check valve and engine brake lash settings.
1700 rpm — 18 psi Boost
3. Check for possible bent valves or push rods. 1500 rpm — 16 psi Boost
Possible causes of bent valves or push rods
1300 rpm — 11 psi Boost
could be:
1100 rpm — 8 psi Boost
Engine overspeeding — Usually several
valves are affected. MACK E7 300, 330/350, 350, 355/380, 400 E-Tech™
Engines (Schwitzer S-300 Pre-12/99 — S-400S Post
One bent exhaust valve or push rod — This 12/99 Turbo)
indicates a possible problem with a stuck 2100 rpm — 18 psi Boost
master or slave piston, damaged slave 1900 rpm — 18 psi Boost
piston adjusting screw (reset screw) or
excessive oil pressure. See the Table on 1700 rpm — 17 psi Boost
page 81 for oil pressure requirements. 1500 rpm — 14 psi Boost

A bent exhaust valve may be caused by the 1300 rpm — 10 psi Boost
valve stem stuck in its guide, bad yoke 1100 rpm — 8 psi Boost
adjustment, or broken or weak valve MACK E7 427, 460 E-Tech™ Engines (Schwitzer S-400
springs. Pre-12/99 — S-400S Post 12/99 Turbo)
2100 rpm — 17 psi Boost
1900 rpm — 15 psi Boost
1700 rpm — 14 psi Boost
1500 rpm — 11 psi Boost
1300 rpm — 8 psi Boost
1100 rpm — 6 psi Boost

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If insufficient electrical power is reaching the
engine brake, perform the preliminary checks
outlined below. For more information, see the
If the vehicle does not have a boost pressure V-MAC® III Service Manual, 8-211.
gauge, one must be installed. A pipe plug is
located in the air inlet manifold for this purpose.
NO ENGINE BRAKE OPERATION
2. It is best to conduct the test with a loaded 1. Check for a blown fuse or circuit breaker.
vehicle, engine at maximum rated rpm and
2. With electrical power OFF, check the control
the engine brake ON. Downhill operation is
system for a short to ground. Check systems
desirable to stabilize rpm.
separately to isolate where the short is
3. Record the maximum boost pressure with occurring. If the control system is OK up to
both housings (HI position). the engine brake spacer connection,
measure the resistance to the solenoid
4. Record the boost pressure with the switch in
valve. High resistance means an open
the LO position.
circuit in the solenoid or solenoid wire.

ONLY ONE HOUSING OPERATING

LO position may be either front or rear housing. 1. Determine which housing is not operating by
closing all the switches and checking the
5. Disconnect the LO position harness to the power at the wires leading to the solenoid
solenoid and rerun the test with the switch in valves (front and rear).
the HI position. Record the results.
2. Remove the wire to the solenoid valve at the
spacer and check for resistance (the Table
on page 80). No reading indicates an open
circuit in the wire or solenoid coil. A low
The individual housing readings will not be half of resistance reading indicates a short to
the maximum boost pressure reading due to the ground in the solenoid wire or solenoid coil.
effect of the turbocharger. The individual boost
pressure readings, however, should be
approximately the same.
A constant 12-volt low amperage signal is
6. A significantly lower reading in one housing supplied to the engine brake solenoids by the
indicates a possible problem with the V-MAC III module when the ignition switch is
housing. Compare the maximum boost turned on. During an engine braking event,
pressure with the boost pressures in the V-MAC increases the current to the solenoids to
Table on page 78. A low reading indicates a activate the engine brake. The most accurate
possible problem. Readings within 3 psi of method of checking electrical functionality of the
the values shown indicate proper operation engine brake solenoids circuit is by using an
of the engine brake. ammeter to measure current at the solenoids
when the engine brake is activated. When the
engine brake is activated, current should be
Electrical Troubleshooting approximately 1.59 amps. For additional
The J-Tech™ engine brake is activated by the information, consult the V-MAC® III Service
V-MAC® system. When the ignition switch is Manual, 8-211.
turned ON, the engine brake solenoids are
supplied a constant 12-volt direct current with 3. Test the solenoid by checking for current
current flow increasing whenever the engine draw and pull-in voltage per specifications
brake is activated. To properly diagnose electrical listed in the Table on page 80.
problems with the brake, an ammeter may be
required.

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SOLENOID SPECIFICATIONS
12-Volt Solenoid:
Resistance — 8.7 to 10.0 ohms Valve clearance must be checked with the timing
Current Draw — 0.9 to 1.6 amps pointer hole on the flywheel housing aligned with
Pull In Voltage — 9 volts DC minimum the proper valve setting mark on the flywheel for
the cylinder being checked. This ensures that the
24-Volt Solenoid: valve lifter is on the camshaft base circle and not
Resistance — 32.6 to 39.8 ohms on the brake ramp portion of the lobe.
Current Draw — 0.46 to 0.75 amps
Pull In Voltage — 18 volts DC minimum

INTERMITTENT BRAKING Wear eye protection and do not expose your

face over the engine area. Keep hands away
Inspect all wiring for loose connections and all from moving parts. Take precautions to
switches for proper adjustment. prevent oil leakage down onto the engine.
Whenever engine is running and the cylinder
POOR PERFORMANCE head covers are removed, oil splashing in the
Connect a volt/ohmmeter (multimeter) to the engine brake area could cause personal
electrical connector on the spacer. Verify that a injury.
steady voltage signal is present when the engine Never remove any engine brake component
brake is active. If not, check for loose connections with the engine running. Personal injury may
or faulty switches. Repeat for all spacer result.
terminals.

Hydraulic/Mechanical
Troubleshooting Slave piston clearance settings must be made
SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED with the engine stopped and cold and with the
exhaust valves closed.
r Jacobs Oil Pressure Test Kit 4559-18280

Remove the covers to begin inspecting the brake SLAVE PISTON CLEARANCE SETTINGS
housings and attendant hardware. E-Tech™ Engine with J-Tech™ Engine Brake
Adjustment — 0.015 inches (0.381 mm)
GENERAL INSPECTION AND ADJUSTMENT Slave piston adjusting tool — standard feeler gauge
VERIFICATION
Adjust following the firing order — 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4
1. Visually inspect the brake units for obvious
damage or missing parts. Replace as
necessary. DETERMINING ENGINE OIL PRESSURE AND
OIL PRESSURE AT THE ENGINE BRAKE
2. Check the slave piston-to-actuator pin for UNITS
proper clearance as shown in the Table on
page 80. Also check the intake and exhaust The engine brake requires a minimum oil
valve clearance. Readjust if necessary. pressure to operate. To determine the oil
pressure at the engine brake housing solenoid
valves, use the Jacobs oil pressure test kit (part
No. 4559-18280) and follow the instructions
included in the kit. See the Table on page 81 for
oil pressure requirements.

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The engine oil temperature must be within normal Remove control valve retaining components
operating range when the test is performed. carefully to avoid personal injury. Control
valve retaining components are under load
from the control valve springs.
If the oil pressure remains low, correct the engine
problem as described under OIL PRESSURE
3. The control valve must move freely in the
DROPPING BELOW MINIMUM REQUIRED FOR
bore. If not, remove it and replace with a
ENGINE BRAKE OPERATION in the
new control valve.
Troubleshooting Guide included in this section.

OIL PRESSURE REQUIREMENTS

E-Tech™ Engine with J-Tech™ Engine Brake
If the bore is damaged (scored), use a light
Engine rpm 2100 — 40 psi (2.8 bar) crocus cloth to smooth the bore. Clean the bore
Engine rpm 1700 — 35 psi (2.4 bar)* and install a new control valve. If severe damage
Engine rpm 1500 — 30 psi (2.0 bar)* to the bore is found, replace the housing.
Engine rpm 1300 — 30 psi (2.0 bar)*
4. Replace any broken springs.
Engine rpm 1100 — 30 psi (2.0 bar)*
* Specified pressures with engine at normal operating 5. If the control valves and springs are OK and
temperatures the master and slave pistons were observed
not to be operating, remove the housings for
inspection.
INSPECTION OF ENGINE BRAKE
COMPONENTS Visually inspect the following:
If oil pressure at the brake housings is sufficient Master piston springs — If broken or worn,
for brake operation, then inspect the engine replace the springs.
brake components for excess wear, damage or Master pistons — Pistons must move freely
malfunctioning conditions described in this in the bore. Check the hard facing on the
section. master piston for damage; this is the area
1. Start the engine and allow it to idle for a few that contacts the spherical nut.
minutes. Check for oil leakage at the oil Spherical nut rocker adjusting screw —
supply screw, solenoid valve and housing Check the spherical nut for excessive wear.
pipe plugs. Oil leakage can result in weak, If a depression of 0.005 inch or deeper is
intermittent or no braking. If leakage is found in the top of the spherical nut or if the
found, shut down the engine and replace pattern of wipe extends beyond the edge of
seals or repair as needed. the nut, replace the spherical nut. Also,
When the engine is shut down for several replace the companion master piston. The
minutes, the oil in the brake housings will spherical end of the rocker adjusting screw
bleed down. To refill the brake housings for should be checked for proper contour and
immediate operation, depress the solenoid smooth appearance. Replace if necessary.
cap (pin) several times to fill the housing Internal check valve components — If the
with engine oil. housing contains internal check valve
2. With the engine brake on, observe that the components and a hollow oil supply screw,
master pistons are moving out of the remove the check valve components (ball,
housing and making contact with the spring, retaining ring and washer) from the
exhaust rocker spherical nuts. They should housing and replace the hollow oil supply
move in and out freely. If they do not, shut screw with the current-production screw
down the engine and check the control containing an integral check valve.
valves and control valve springs for those Oil supply screws — Check for damage and
cylinders. replace if necessary.

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6. Check the screw and pin assembly to 4. Turn the handle slowly until the retainer is
ensure that the pin is not bent or damaged. depressed to about 1/32 inch (1 mm),
The pin should not stick in the screw at any relieving pressure against the retaining ring.
point in its travel. There should be no signs
5. Remove the retaining ring using retaining
of mushrooming or other damage where the
ring pliers. Back out the holder until the
slave piston contacts the screw. Check to
springs are loose, and remove the fixture.
ensure that the retainer is in place on the top
Remove all components, ensuring that there
of the pin, making the pin captive in the
is no binding or burrs. Clean in an approved
screw. Replace the screw and pin assembly
cleaning solvent. Inspect parts and replace
as a unit, if necessary.
as necessary.
7. Remove and inspect the reset screw. A
6. A shiny, smooth contact surface on the reset
spring-loaded plunger located at the bottom
screw plunger and slave piston is normal. If
of the screw seals the hole in the slave
a rough surface exists on the plunger and/or
piston to provide proper master/slave
slave piston, replace the parts. There should
operation. A stuck plunger or any debris will
be a light spring force on the plunger and it
cause the hole in the slave piston to be
should move freely. If not, replace the reset
uncovered prematurely, dumping oil
screw assembly.
pressure and shutting down the circuit. The
reset screw prevents overtravel of the slave 7. Use the clamp fixture to reinstall the piston
piston and exhaust valve to engine piston and springs. Be sure the retaining rings are
contact. placed on the retainer before screwing the
clamp holder down.
8. Compress the slave piston springs down
until the retainer is about 1/32 inch (1 mm)
Reset screw assemblies are not field serviceable. below the retaining ring groove. Reinstall the
retaining ring. Be sure the retaining ring is
8. Remove the slave pistons, using the fully seated in the groove.
following procedure.
9. Remove the clamp fixture slowly to ensure
proper seating of retaining ring.

Wear safety glasses. Final Test

The slave piston is retained by springs that Follow the instructions in the installation manual
are under heavy compression. If the following to reassemble the housings. Install a new oil
instructions are not followed and proper tools supply seal ring.
not used, the springs will be discharged with
enough force to cause personal injury. 1. Install the housings on the engine and adjust
the slave piston clearance to the proper
settings shown in the Table on page 80.
SLAVE PISTON REMOVAL 2. Before installing the engine covers, start the
engine and allow it to warm up for a few
1. Remove the locknut on the slave piston minutes.
adjusting screw. Back out the adjusting
screw until the slave piston is fully retracted 3. Depress the solenoid valve several times to
(screw is loose). fill the housing with engine oil.
2. Place the hole in the slave piston clamp
fixture over the slave piston adjusting screw.
Replace locknut. Finger-tighten to hold
fixture securely. Engine brakes require a minimum oil pressure for
operation. If there is less than minimum at idle,
3. While holding the fixture in position, screw run the engine at higher rpm (800–900) when
the holder down over the slave piston until making checks. See the Table on page 81 for oil
the spring retainer is contacted. pressure requirements.

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4. Check for oil leaks at the oil supply screw, r Incorrect electrical power source —
solenoid valve and housing pipe plugs. If Check that the supply voltage is the
leakage is noticed, shut down the engine appropriate voltage. Recommended power
and repair the leaks. source is from the key switch ON position.
Ensure that power is not taken from a
source with an additional on/off switch, i.e.,
light switch. See solenoid specifications in
Some leakage will be seen at the master piston, the Table on page 80. Make sure wiring is in
slave piston and control valves. This is normal. accordance with MACK wiring instructions.
Excessive leakage must be investigated (see r Low engine oil pressure — Determine oil
Hydraulic/Mechanical Troubleshooting). pressure at engine brakes (solenoid valve
and control valve); see oil pressure
5. After final inspection and necessary repair, requirements in the Table on page 80. If oil
shut down the engine and replace the pressure is below specification, the engine
gaskets and covers. should be repaired in accordance with
MACK procedures.
6. Test drive the vehicle following the Test
Drive procedures (covered earlier) to verify r Slave lash not properly adjusted — The
corrective action. model 690 engine brake is very sensitive to
adjustment. Incorrect adjustment may hold
the valves open during positive power,
Troubleshooting Guide leading to engine failure, or may cause the
Following is a listing of problem conditions engine brake to work poorly or not at all.
showing the probable causes and subsequent Confirm that the engine brake is properly
corrections. adjusted in accordance with the Table on
page 80.

ENGINE FAILS TO START

ENGINE BRAKE DOES NOT OPERATE AT
r Solenoid valve stuck in ON position — LOW ENGINE RPM
Ensure that electrical current is off to the
engine brake units. If the solenoid valve r Inlet check valve leaking — Early-
remains on (cap down) with current off, production engine brake housings contained
replace the solenoid valve. a check valve (with ball, spring, retaining
ring and washer) assembled into the
housing. In June 2000, the housing’s internal
ENGINE BRAKE WILL NOT OPERATE check valve components and hollow oil
r Blown fuse, open electrical leads — Look supply screw were replaced by a new oil
for a short circuit in the wiring. Replace any supply screw containing an integral check
broken, brittle or chafed wires. Check valve. If the housing contains the early-
solenoid tab for signs of shorting and production internal check valve components
replace if necessary. Replace 10 amp fuse. and a hollow oil supply screw, remove the
check valve components (ball, spring,
r On/Off switch, clutch switch or multi- retaining ring and washer) from the housing
position switch out of adjustment or and replace the hollow oil supply screw with
defective — Use a volt/ohm meter to make the current-production screw containing an
certain that there is electrical voltage integral check valve.
available at both terminals of each switch.
Readjust if needed or replace if voltage will
not pass through switch.

Do not touch electrical connection when

system is energized.

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ENGINE BRAKE ACTIVATES WITH SWITCHES r Control valves binding in housing
OPEN (OFF) bore — Remove control valve. If body is
scored, replace the control valve. Check for
r Solenoid valve seal center ring
contaminants in lube oil. Clean housing and
damaged — Remove solenoid and replace
control valve. If binding continues, replace
all three seal rings.
housing.
r Engine brake improperly wired — Check
r Control valve defective — Remove control
wiring in accordance with MACK wiring
valve. Make sure check ball is seated in
diagrams.
bore and can be moved off seat. Make sure
there is spring pressure against the ball.
ENGINE BRAKE SLOW TO OPERATE OR Flush in cleaning solvent. Replace if
WEAK IN EFFECT necessary.
r Lube oil cold and thick — Allow engine to r Switch operation sluggish — Check dash
warm before operating brakes. switches, clutch switch, or other control
switches. Readjust or replace as required.
r Improper slave piston adjustment or
Check clutch return springs for proper
slave piston sticking in bore — Readjust
operation. Check all controls for correct
in accordance with the Table on page 80.
operation and replace as required.
Ensure that the slave piston responds
smoothly to the reset screw by loosening the r Solenoid valve operation erratic — Check
jam nut and turning the screw through its full solenoid valve using electrical specifications
travel for full slave piston motion. Make sure presented in the Table on page 80.
piston travels the full range without binding Disconnect the solenoid lead and provide
or sticking. 12 volts directly to the solenoid. Ensure that
the solenoid cap depresses.

Remove the slave piston carefully when

disassembly is necessary. Use Jacobs slave Do not touch electrical connection when
piston tool part No. 4559-25084. Slave piston system is energized.
springs are under heavy compression.

r Reset screw not properly sealing — OIL PRESSURE DROPPING BELOW MINIMUM
Remove reset screw and check for debris on REQUIRED FOR ENGINE BRAKE OPERATION
the plunger or surface of the slave piston.
r Upper solenoid seal ring damaged —
Check to ensure that plunger moves freely
Remove solenoid. Inspect seal ring and
with light pressure. Tip of plunger should be
replace all seal rings.
smooth and free of nicks or scratches.
Replace reset screw if necessary. r Aeration of lubricating oil — Check for
aeration of the oil. Activate, then deactivate
r Lower solenoid seal damaged allowing
engine brake and observe escape oil
oil to exit the housing — Remove solenoid
coming from control valve cover. If oil has
valve and replace all seal rings.
bubbles or is foamy, air is present in system.
r Solenoid screen clogged stopping Aeration can be caused by an overfilled or
supply of oil to brake — Remove solenoid underfilled crankcase, or a crack or other
valve and clean screen. leak in the oil pickup tube. Correct in
accordance with MACK procedures.
r Master piston not moving in bore —
Inspect master piston and bore for scoring or r Lubricating oil being diluted by fuel oil —
burrs. If any are present, clean the surface Have an oil analysis of lube oil to determine
with crocus cloth. If unable to remove burrs, if fuel is present. Correct per MACK
replace piston or housing. Inspect lube oil for procedures.
signs of contaminants. If any are present,
r Low engine oil level — Consult engine
replace oil and filter and correct cause of
manual for specifications. Add oil or
contamination.
recalibrate dipstick as required.

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TROUBLESHOOTING
r Worn rocker arm bores or shaft r Center solenoid seal ring damaged
journals — Inspect rocker arm bores and (allows oil to enter brake with solenoid
shaft journals. Repair as required. valve closed) — Remove solenoid and
replace all seal rings.
r Worn crankshaft bearings or camshaft
bushings — Replace bearings and r Solenoid valve exhaust plugged —
bushings in accordance with MACK Remove any restrictions at exhaust (bottom)
overhaul procedures. of solenoid valve.
r Clutch switch stuck in ON position or out
ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS FAIL TO STOP of adjustment — Check for proper
BRAKING OR ENGINE STALLS operation. Readjust or replace as needed.
r Control valve inner spring broken —
Replace inner spring. ENGINE MISSES OR LOSES POWER
r One or more control valves stuck in ON r Slave piston adjustment too tight —
or UP position — Check control valves for Readjust slave piston clearance in
binding. Remove and clean, or replace if accordance with the Table on page 80.
necessary. Inspect lube oil for contaminates.
r Solenoid valve sticking in ON position — SUDDEN DROP IN ENGINE LUBE OIL
If solenoid valve cap remains down with no PRESSURE
electric current being supplied, replace the
r Upper solenoid valve seal missing or
solenoid valve.
damaged — Remove solenoid and replace
upper seal ring.

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NOTES

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MAINTENANCE

MAINTENANCE

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MAINTENANCE
BELT DRIVE SYSTEM Manually Tensioned System
TENSIONING INSTALLATION
[216] Loosen the alternator mounting bolts and pivot
the alternator inboard, far enough to allow the
The belt drive system uses a single, 10-rib poly-v belt to be placed over the pulleys without force.
belt to drive the alternator, water pump, and fan Do not pry the belt over a pulley.
drive. A separate single-v belt, running off the
water pump pulley, drives the refrigerant
compressor. The service life of the poly-v belt is TENSIONING
considerably improved over other systems and Using a belt tension gauge, such as J 41251-B
allows the use of higher horsepower cooling fans. from Kent-Moore, check the belt tension at the
Refer to Figure 68. widest span between pulleys. Adjust belt tension
according to the following specifications:
Both manually tensioned and automatically
tensioned systems are used. Whether an engine r New belt: 270 lbs. ± 10 lbs.
has the manually tensioned or automatically r Used belt: 230 lbs. ± 10 lbs.
tensioned system depends on the specific engine
configuration and application. The following r Minimum allowable tension (before
service information covers both systems. retension is required): 150 lbs.
68

MAINTENANCE
The belt tension and condition of the belt should
be checked when performing preventive
maintenance inspections A, B, C and D as
outlined in the Maintenance and Lubrication
manual, TS494. Belts should be tightened when
needed, using the procedures described in this
manual.

Automatically Tensioned System

INSTALLATION
Swing the tensioner to the fully sprung position
and, without force, place the belt over the pulleys.
Do not allow the tensioner to snap against its
stops. Do not pry the belt over a pulley.

TENSIONING
No tensioning adjustment is required. Once the
tensioner is released against the belt, the belt is
tightened to optimum tension automatically at all
speeds and loads.

MAINTENANCE

Figure 68 — Belt Drive The condition of the belt and tensioner should be
checked when performing preventive
1. A/C Compressor 4. Poly-V Belt maintenance inspections A, B, C and D as
2. Water Pump 5. Tensioning Device outlined in the Maintenance and Lubrication
3. Alternator manual, TS494. Belt tension level need not be
checked as long as tensioner is in good condition
and there is no evidence of a loose belt.

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MAINTENANCE
FILTER ELEMENT Figure 69. Regardless of the canister style, the
breather filter element can be cleaned if it has
REPLACEMENT become plugged following the procedure in this
section.
General Information 69

The engine may be equipped with either a cast

aluminum or fiberglass-reinforced nylon
crankcase breather filter canister as shown in

Figure 69 — Canister Housings

1. Fiberglass-Reinforced Nylon Housing 4. Filter Element

2. Breather Cover 5. Housing Mount O-Ring/Gasket
3. Cover O-Ring

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MAINTENANCE
Crankcase Breather Filter Cleaning Oil Filter Element Replacement
[219 ER] [219 EV]
1. Remove the canister cover by unthreading it
from the housing. SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED
2. Place a thin-blade screwdriver between the r Fuel and Oil Filter Wrench J 24783
outside diameter of the element and the
r Oil Filter Wrench J 29927
canister housing (Figure 70). Then, remove
the element by rotating the screwdriver and
element while exerting upward pressure. GENERAL INFORMATION
3. Wash the element in shop solvent and blow Two different oil filter mounting adapter designs
dry with shop air. are used, one for engines with the removable
bundle-type oil cooler and another for engines
4. Reinstall the element in the canister housing.
with the plate-type cooler.
5. Install and tighten the canister cover.
70
Engines with removable bundle-type oil
coolers — The plunger-style oil filter bypass
relief valve used in early production oil filter
mounting adapters was replaced with a poppet-
style valve in November 1997 (beginning with
engine serial number series 7V). With this
change, the oil filter mounting adapter was
redesigned to accommodate the poppet-style
relief valve and to eliminate the section that
contained the plunger-style valve. When
performing an oil and filter change, it is suggested
that functionality of the poppet-style relief valve
be checked by pushing against the viton disk to
verify spring tension.

Engines with plate-type oil coolers — The oil

filter mounting adapters on these engines are
also fitted with the poppet-style valve. Again, the
functionality of the poppet-style relief valve can
be checked by pushing against the viton disk to
verify spring tension each time the oil and filters
are replaced.

Centri-Max® filter assemblies — There are

different style rotors used in both the externally
drained and internally drained Centri-Max®
assemblies. As such, it is important that the
proper rotor be used in the Centri-Max® unit for
which it was designed.
Figure 70 — Breather Filter Element Removal (Cast
Aluminum Housing Shown) From the inception of the Centri-Max® filter
assembly (externally drained), the rounded end of
the original rotor (part No. 236GB244A) had
several straight ribs radiating from the center of
the rotor, like spokes of a wheel.

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MAINTENANCE
Effective September 1998, a more efficient spindle used with the internally drained
“swept” rotor (part No. 236GB244B) was configuration. This rotor (part No. 236GB245M)
implemented into production. The swept rotor is must be used with the Centri-Max® PLUS filter. If
easily identified by the ribs on the rounded end, either of the other two rotor part numbers are
which are now curved rather than straight. used, they will be loose on the spindle and will not
rotate. If the rotor does not rotate, the centrifugal
The Centri-Max® PLUS (internally drained) unit filter will not function. The Centri-Max® PLUS
also uses the swept rotor design, but the canister carries the warning to use only rotor
bushings in each end of the rotor are of a smaller No. 236GB245M. No other rotor will work.
inside diameter to fit over the smaller diameter 71

Figure 71 — Centri-Max® Rotors

DISPOSABLE SPIN-ON OIL FILTER 6. Install the filters and tighten 3/4 to 1 turn
REPLACEMENT after the gasket contacts the base.
Change oil and replace oil filters using the 7. Fill the crankcase with the recommended
following procedure: engine oil. If the engine is equipped with a
REPTO unit, add one additional quart.
1. Run the engine until normal operating
temperature is reached. Then, shut off the 8. Start the engine and check for leaks. Run
engine and drain the oil before the engine the engine for approximately five minutes,
cools. then shut it off and recheck the oil level. Add
oil if necessary.
2. Thoroughly clean the area around the filters
before removing.
3. Using tool J 24783, remove both spin-on
filters and wipe the filter mounting base Use of anything other than genuine MACK filters
clean. may cause damage and void the engine
4. Prefill each filter with 2 quarts (1.9 liters) of warranty. Change filters according to the
the specified engine oil. DO NOT allow any recommended maintenance schedule.
contaminants to enter the filters while
prefilling.
5. Apply a film of clean engine oil to the sealing
gasket on each new filter.

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MAINTENANCE
CENTRI-MAX® FILTER REPLACEMENT CENTRI-MAX® PLUS FILTER REPLACEMENT
(Externally Drained Filter) (Internally Drained Filter)
1. Clean the area around the centrifugal filter 1. To prevent contamination from entering the
before removing the drain hose. engine, thoroughly clean the area around
2. Loosen the hose clamp at the bottom of the the centrifugal oil filter (Figure 72) before
filter housing and disconnect the drain hose. removing the cover assembly.
3. Loosen the hose clamp at the cylinder block 2. Loosen the nut at the top of the cover
drain and rotate the hose out of the way. assembly, then remove the cover.
4. Using tool J 24783, remove the centrifugal 3. Remove and discard the rotor.
oil filter housing. 4. Clean the inside of the cover assembly.
5. Install a new rotor over the spindle.

Be sure to apply the filter removal tool on the filter

housing at the point marked “WRENCH HERE.” Use only the rotor designed for use with the
Centri-Max® PLUS centrifugal filter assembly.
5. Remove and discard the filter seal and rotor. Any other rotor will not work.
Clean the filter housing.
6. Install a new filter seal and rotor in the filter 6. Remove and discard the seal from the cover
housing. assembly.
7. Apply a thin film of engine oil to the sealing 7. Install a new seal.
gasket. Install the centrifugal filter housing
and tighten the housing an additional 3/4 turn 8. Apply a thin film of clean engine oil to the seal.
BY HAND after the gasket contacts the base. 9. Install the cover assembly.
8. Install the drain hose on the base of the filter 10. Tighten the cover assembly nut to 15 lb-ft
housing and tighten the hose clamps at the (20 N•m).
cylinder block and filter housing. 11. Start the engine and check for leaks.
72
9. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Figure 72 — Centri-Max® PLUS Oil Filter Assembly

1. Cover Bolt 3. Centri-Max® PLUS Rotor (Part No. 236GB245M)

2. Centri-Max® PLUS Cover Assembly 4. O-Ring

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MAINTENANCE
CENTRI-MAX® PLUS SPINDLE Fuel Filter Replacement
REPLACEMENT
[219 EV] [224 KP, 231 PV]
Normally, it should never be necessary to replace
GENERAL INFORMATION
the Centri-Max® PLUS rotor spindle. However, if
the spindle is damaged in any way, replacement Special high filtration fuel filters have been
procedures are as follows: developed for the E-Tech™ engine. These filters
73
have metric mounting threads and can be
identified by the two 1/4-inch wide bands around
the circumference of the filter. Figure 74 shows
the fuel filters required for the E-Tech™ engine.

Attempting to install E7 filters with English

threads on an E-Tech™ engine (that has metric
threaded spuds) will cause the following to occur:
Primary Filter — The diameters of the filter
threads and the threaded spud are close in size.
Although the filter can be started on the spud
threads using force, the threads will be damaged.
Secondary Filter — The diameter of the filter
threads is smaller than the diameter of the
threaded spud. Consequently, the filter cannot be
installed.
Attempting to install E-Tech™ filters (with metric
threads) on an E7 engine with English threads
would not result in damage to the threads. The
Figure 73 — Centri-Max® PLUS Rotor Spindle
Replacement diameters of the filter threads are large enough to
prevent installation of the filters.
1. Cover Bolt (Tighten to 3. Rotor 74
15 lb-ft [20 N•m]) 4. Spindle (Tighten to
2. Rotor Cover 15–20 lb-ft [20–27 N•m])

1. Remove the existing rotor spindle.

2. Using Loctite® Primer T, thoroughly clean
the threads of the new spindle, along with
the threads inside the oil filter mounting
bracket where the spindle will be installed.
3. Apply Loctite® 271 to the threads of the new
spindle.
4. Assemble the spindle to the oil filter
mounting bracket and tighten to 15–20 lb-ft
(20–27 N•m).
5. Allow the Loctite to cure for 24 hours before Figure 74 — Fuel Filters
starting the engine.

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MAINTENANCE
REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE Coolant Conditioner Replacement
Install fuel filters using the following procedure.
[125 LD]
1. Wipe the filter mounting base clean.
2. Apply a film of clean engine oil to the sealing If the engine is equipped with the optional coolant
gasket. conditioner, the conditioner element is replaced
as follows:
3. Fill the filter with clean fuel.
1. Place a suitable container below the coolant
4. Install the filter and tighten 3/4 to 1 turn after filter area to catch any spilled coolant.
gasket contacts the base.
2. Using a suitable filter wrench (J 29927, or
5. Start the engine and check for leaks. equivalent), remove the coolant conditioner
filter element and discard.
3. Apply a light film of oil on the face of the new
Use of anything other than genuine MACK filters filter element gasket seal.
may cause damage and void the engine 4. Install the filter element on the coolant
warranty. Change filters according to the conditioner base assembly. Using tool
recommended maintenance schedule. J 24783, tighten the filter element one full
turn after gasket contacts the base.

If the engine fails to start after installing new fuel

filters, refer to Priming the Fuel System under
Engine Final Preparation and Operational Check.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS

REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
ENGINE REMOVAL Removal from Vehicle
1. Remove the hood (if so equipped) and
General Instructions position it away from the work area to
Details of the engine removal procedure vary prevent accidents or hood damage to
from one vehicle to another. This section provides conventional models. On cab over engine
general guidelines for removing the engine from models, tilt cab forward.
the vehicle. 2. Place a suitable container beneath the
engine and drain the engine oil and coolant.
Open the coolant drain valves in the block, if
applicable.
Before beginning engine removal, make sure all 3. Using an appropriated filter wrench, remove
equipment is available for use and has been the oil filters, fuel filters and coolant
inspected for safety. conditioner.
4. Loosen clamps that secure the air intake
tube to the turbocharger and air filter.
Remove the intake tube.
It is good practice to steam clean the engine to 5. If vehicle is equipped with air conditioning:
remove road grime, grease and oil before starting
work. Steam cleaning the engine and engine area a. Recover the refrigerant using A/C
allows more detailed inspection and improved refrigerant recovery and recycling
workmanship. equipment.
Care must be used to keep moisture from b. Disconnect the A/C compressor
entering the air intake system. If moisture does discharge hose at the connection near
enter the system, make sure it is removed (dried the radiator support.
out) before the engine is reinstalled. c. Disconnect the A/C line at the receiver/
dryer.
1. Position vehicle on a flat and level surface in
an area with ample work space in and d. Locate and disengage the electrical
around the vehicle. Ensure that a suitable connector from the binary pressure
lifting device is available. switch on the receiver/dryer.

2. Apply the parking brake and block the e. Locate and disengage the electrical
vehicle wheels to prevent vehicle from connector from the low-pressure cutout
moving. Observe all safety precautions. switch in the A/C refrigerant line.

3. Disconnect the battery negative (ground) 6. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the
cable. engine coolant outlet fitting.

4. Drain the air tanks. 7. Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the
coolant inlet of the oil cooler assembly.
8. Remove the clamps that retain the coolant
overflow tank and then remove the tank.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
9. Disconnect the chassis-mounted charge air
cooler inlet hose at the cooler.
10. Disconnect the chassis-mounted charge air Do not store the assembly horizontally with the
cooler outlet hose at the cooler. fan face up (hub flange down). Fluid in the
11. Locate the engine coolant temperature viscous drive reservoir can leak out.
sensor and disengage the electrical 76
connector, if applicable. Remove the sensor
harness from the radiator support.
12. Remove fastener from the bracket that
secures the radiator fan clutch air solenoid
valve to the radiator support, if so equipped.
Set the solenoid valve aside.
13. Remove the fan assembly as follows:
a. Loosen the eight fan assembly
mounting nuts (2) and capscrews (1).
Refer to Figure 75.
b. While supporting the fan assembly (3),
remove the nuts (2) from the capscrews
(1) and remove the fan assembly.
c. If the fan assembly is equipped with a
viscous drive, be sure to store the
assembly either horizontally, with the
fan face down (hub flange up), or
vertically, as shown in Figure 76. This
will prevent fluid leaking from the
assembly.
75

Figure 76 — Viscous Fan Drive Assembly Storage

14. Obtain a lifting device (chain fall or engine

hoist) and support the radiator.
15. Remove the retaining bolts from the radiator
support mounts.
16. Remove the radiator from the vehicle, using
the lifting device and an assistant, if
required.
Figure 75 — Fan Assembly Removal
17. Disconnect the heater hoses and A/C
refrigerant lines, if applicable, from
1. Capscrew 3. Fan Assembly
2. Nut connections at the lower dash panel behind
the engine.
18. Disconnect the tube connecting the
turbocharger to the air cleaner assembly.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
19. Remove all coolant tubes, ground straps, air 27. Obtain the appropriate lifting equipment (bar
lines, fuel lines, hydraulic hoses or tubes, or chain) and attach to the proper lift points
throttle linkage and electrical wiring on the engine.
harnesses that are attached to the engine
28. Position and attach the engine hoist to the
and would prevent its removal.
lift bar or chain and, using the hoist, place
20. Remove the air cleaner assembly, if tension on the bar or chain.
required.
29. If the vehicle is equipped with a manual
21. Remove the exhaust bracket from the transmission, remove the clutch linkage and
clutch, torque converter or flywheel housing bracket retaining bolts.
and remove exhaust clamp at the
30. If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic
turbocharger.
transmission, remove the torque converter
22. Remove power steering hoses and the access panel and remove the capscrews
reservoir, if applicable. that secure the torque converter to the
flywheel.
23. Disconnect any electrical cables or wires still
connected to the starter. Remove three 31. Remove the retaining bolts that secure the
mounting capscrews from the mounting engine mounts to the engine.
flange and remove the starter.
32. With the help of an assistant, remove the
24. Support the transmission with an engine from the vehicle. Watch for
appropriate transmission jack. obstructions that may interfere with its
removal such as engine or chassis
25. Remove the retaining bolts that secure the
components, brackets, clamps or other parts
transmission bell housing to the flywheel
still attached to the engine.
housing.
33. Refer to Engine Disassembly procedures for
26. Remove the hood rest crossmember(s), if
mounting the engine on an engine stand.
applicable.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY Filter Element Removal

General Instructions [219 EV]

This section includes step-by-step procedures for The fuel and oil filter elements, as well as the
the complete disassembly of the MACK E-Tech™ Centri-Max® or Centri-Max® PLUS assembly,
engine upon removal from the vehicle. Major must be removed before mounting the adapter
components are removed as assemblies and plate to the engine. If not already removed,
overhauled in the respective bench procedures remove the filters following the procedure below.
sections.
Refer to Figure 77.
1. Place a suitable container below the filter
element area to catch any spilled fluids.
Failure to follow the sequence of operations listed
in this section may result in damage to the 2. Using a suitable filter wrench, remove the
components or personal injury. fuel and oil filter elements. Do not reuse filter
elements. Discard used elements in a
responsible, environmentally safe manner.
3. If equipped with the current top-mounted
Centri-Max® PLUS oil filter (Figure 77):
a. Loosen and remove the retaining bolt
(1) at the top of the filter cover (2).
b. Remove the cover, element and rotor
(3). Discard the seal (4).
77

Figure 77 — Centri-Max® PLUS Housing

1. Filter Mounting Bolt 4. Seal

2. Centri-Max® PLUS Filter Cover 5. Spin-On Full-Flow Oil Filters
3. Element and Rotor 6. Fuel Filter

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
4. If equipped with the earlier Centri-Max® 78

design oil filter (Figure 78):

a. Loosen drain hose assembly (4) from
the Centri-Max® filter housing
assembly by loosening hose clamp (3)
at the Centri-Max® housing.
b. Remove two nuts (6) and two washers
(5) from studs (1) securing hose
adapter (7) at the cylinder block.
Discard O-ring (8).
c. Remove drain hose assembly (4).
d. Using tool J 24783, remove the
centrifugal oil filter housing (9).

Apply the filter wrench to area labeled “WRENCH

HERE” on the Centri-Max® filter housing.
Application outside of the labeled area will result
in damage to the Centri-Max® housing.

e. Remove and discard the filter seal (2)

and the centrifugal cartridge (10).
Clean the filter housing.

Figure 78 — Centri-Max® Housing

1. Studs 6. Nuts
2. Seal Ring 7. Adapter
3. Clamp 8. O-Ring
4. Drain Hose Assembly 9. Centri-Max® Housing
5. Washers 10. Centri-Max® Element

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Mounting 1. Disconnect the harness from the oil
pressure and oil temperature sensors
Bracket Assembly Removal (6 and 5) on the filter mounting bracket (9).
[215 DW, 219 EP] 2. Disconnect the turbocharger lubrication
supply line (2) from the mounting bracket.
If the engine is equipped with the plate-type oil 3. Loosen the hose clamps at the cooler-to-
cooler, the cooler and oil filter mounting bracket water pipe connection, and slide the hose
must be removed before mounting the engine in away from the cooler and further onto the
the stand. The configuration of the housing tube.
assembly protrudes into the area required for the
engine mounting adapter plate. The removable 4. While supporting the oil cooler and oil filter
bundle-type oil cooler and oil filter mounting mounting bracket assembly with one hand,
bracket does not protrude into the mounting area remove the four capscrews (7) attaching the
and can remain on until after the engine is oil cooler and oil filter mounting bracket to
mounted in the stand if desired. the cylinder block (8).
5. Lift the oil cooler and oil filter mounting
PLATE-TYPE OIL COOLER AND OIL FILTER bracket assembly off the block surface and
MOUNTING BRACKET WITH INVERTED place on a clean work surface.
79
TOP-MOUNTED CENTRI-MAX® PLUS
(Current Production)

Refer to Figure 79 and remove the assembly as

follows:

Figure 79 — Plate-Type Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Mounting Bracket Removal

1. Oil Supply Port (for Mechanical Dashboard Gauge) 5. Oil Temperature Sensor Port
2. Turbocharger Lubrication Supply Line 6. Oil Pressure Sensor
3. Oil Cooler 7. Mounting Bracket Capscrews (Four)
4. Oil Supply Port (for REPTO), Turbo Unloader and Remote- 8. Cylinder Block
Mounted Oil Filter 9. Oil Filter Mounting Bracket

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
REMOVABLE BUNDLE-TYPE OIL COOLER
AND OIL FILTER MOUNTING BRACKET WITH
EXTERNALLY DRAINED CENTRI-MAX®
Unless it is necessary to repair any portion of the
(Early Production) oil cooler or oil filter mounting bracket, remove
the units as an assembly. The assembly can be
Refer to Figure 80. disassembled later, if necessary. Refer to “Oil
1. Disconnect the turbocharger lubrication Cooler Disassembly” under Lubrication System
supply line (6) from the oil filter/cooler Components Bench Procedures in the REPAIR
assembly (5) and turbocharger, and remove INSTRUCTIONS section.
hose. Later-production filter adapters are redesigned to
2. Disconnect feed line (2) from the centrifugal use a poppet-type pressure relief valve in place of
filter housing fitting. Tag and cap line and the plunger-type valve.
fitting.
3. Remove four capscrews (3) securing oil filter
feed assembly (4) to engine block.
The S300 and S400 model turbochargers use a
stainless steel braided line connected directly to
the threaded oil inlet port at the turbocharger.
80

Figure 80 — Removable Bundle Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Mounting Bracket Removal

1. Vent Fitting 4. Oil Filter Feed Assembly

2. Feed Line 5. Oil Filter/Cooler Assembly
3. Capscrew 6. Turbocharger Lubrication Supply Line

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Mounting Engine in Stand

Engine stand, Kent-Moore tool number J 29109,

and adapter plate J 38048, are recommended to
The engine weighs approximately 2,300 lbs. safely support the engine during disassembly and
(1043 kg) wet. Stay out from under the engine assembly procedures.
when it is being lifted. Failure of the lifting
device could result in serious injury or death. Avoid using an engine stand that supports the
Make sure to use lifting equipment that is engine on the oil pan rail while the oil pan is still
rated at a capacity greater than the weight of installed. Damage to the oil pan, pan gasket or
the engine. the isolators may result. If this type of stand must
be used and the oil pan is to remain installed,
support the engine on the pads provided at each
corner of the cylinder block as shown in
Figure 81.
81

Figure 81 — Engine Support Pads

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED 1. Using three mounting capscrews (2), secure
adapter plate J 38048 (1) to the left side of
r Engine Stand J 29109
the engine.
r Adapter Plate J 38048
2. Secure adapter plate (1) to engine stand
J 29109 (3) with six mounting capscrews (4).
PROCEDURE
3. Remove lifting device from the engine.
Refer to Figure 82. 82

Figure 82 — Engine Mounting in Stand

1. Adapter Plate J 38048 3. Engine Stand J 29109

2. Capscrews 4. Capscrew

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Alternator Removal Engine Electronic Control Unit
[271 CB] (EECU) Removal
[230 EA]
Refer to Figure 83.
1. Loosen adjusting capscrew (1) and Left-Side Mounted Assembly
mounting capscrews (2).
2. Remove the poly-v drive belt.
3. Disconnect and tag electrical wires. The following procedure applies for an EECU
4. Remove mounting nuts, washers and mounted on the left side of the engine. The
capscrews (2), and remove alternator (3). procedure for a right-side mounted unit with
cooling plate is covered later in this section.
5. Remove mounting hardware and remove
alternator plate. 1. Thoroughly clean the area around the ECU
83
harness connector to make sure the
terminals remain clean for reassembly.
2. Disconnect the wiring harness to the EECU
(Figure 84).
84

Figure 83 — Alternator Removal

1. Adjusting Capscrew 3. Alternator

2. Mounting Capscrews

Figure 84 — EECU Connector Removal

1. Upper Connector 3. Lower Connector

2. EECU

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
3. Remove the two top retaining nuts and
isolating washers that secure the EECU to
the EECU mounting bracket (Figure 85).
Then, remove the two bottom retaining nuts
and isolating washers that secure the EECU
to the of the air inlet manifold.
4. Carefully remove the EECU from the inlet
manifold. The bracket can remain attached
to the inlet manifold providing the manifold is
not being replaced.
85

Figure 85 — EECU Removal (Left-Side Mounted Unit)

1. Air Inlet Manifold 4. EECU

2. Coolant Manifold 5. Upper Mounting Bolts
3. Lower Mounting Bolts (Two)
(Two) 6. Mounting Stud

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Fuel Filter Adapter Assembly 2. Disconnect fuel lines from fittings (2, 3 and
5) on the adapter. Tag and cap all lines.
Removal
3. Remove three capscrews (4) from the top of
[231 PB] the fuel filter adapter assembly.
4. Remove fuel filter adapter assembly from
Refer to Figure 86 and Figure 87. the air inlet manifold (7).
1. Disconnect wiring harness connector at the 5. Remove fuel supply hose stand-off bracket
fuel temperature sensor on top of the fuel from head bolt/water pump support bracket
filter adapter assembly, if so equipped (1). and remove supply hose.
86

Figure 86 — Fuel Filter Adapter Assembly Removal (Current Production)

1. Secondary Filter Fitting (Out) 5. Air Inlet Manifold

2. Secondary Filter Fitting (In) 6. Mounting Bracket
3. Primary Filter Fitting (Out) 7. Primary Filter Fitting (In)
4. Coolant Manifold 8. Fuel Filter Adapter

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
87
1. Disconnect wiring harness leads at the
coolant temperature sensor on the coolant
manifold and the boost air temperature
sensor on the air inlet manifold. Position
leads out of way.
2. Disconnect fittings (3) from both ends of the
coolant conditioner supply tube. Remove
tube (2).

Remove only the supply tube. Do not remove the

brass elbow fittings at the manifold and the
cylinder block.
88

Figure 87 — Fuel Filter Adapter Assembly (Early

Production)

1. Fuel Filter Adapter 4. Capscrews

Assembly 5. Primary Filter Fitting
2. Secondary Filter Fitting (Out)
(Out) 6. Primary Filter Fitting (In)
3. Secondary Filter Fitting 7. Air Inlet Manifold
(In) 8. Mounting Flange

Coolant Conditioner Element

Removal
[215 LD]

Figure 88 — Coolant Conditioner Supply Tube Removal

The following procedure applies for engines
1. Plastic Tie Wrap 3. Fittings
equipped with a coolant conditioner. The coolant 2. Coolant Conditioner
conditioner is available as an option on current- Supply Tube
production engines.

Refer to Figure 88 and Figure 90.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
3. Place a suitable container below the coolant Oil Cooler-to-Water Pump Inlet Line
filter area to catch any spilled coolant.
Removal
4. Using a suitable filter wrench (J 29927, or
equivalent), remove the coolant conditioner If the engine is equipped with the plate-type oil
filter element (14). Discard element. cooler, remove the oil cooler-to-water pump inlet
line (Figure 89) as follows:
5. Remove coolant conditioner head assembly
(2) from thermostat housing (5) by removing 1. Remove the two clamps and flexible
mounting capscrews (1). coupling between the inlet line and the
coolant manifold.
6. Remove and discard O-ring (4).
2. Support the line and remove the two
7. Carefully remove and examine the check capscrews securing the inlet line to the
valve assembly (3). Examine check valve water pump and remove the line.
assembly by depressing the check ball. If it 89
resists movement and does not return to its
seat freely, the check valve assembly must
be replaced.

Figure 89 — Oil Cooler-to-Water Pump Inlet Line

Removal

1. Water Pump 3. Inlet Pipe

2. Coupling

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Thermostat Removal 2. Loosen two hose clamps (10) on the
coupling (12) that connect the oil cooler
[215 NU] supply tube (11) to the thermostat housing.
3. Taking care to prevent the thermostat (7)
Refer to Figure 90. from falling, remove the thermostat housing
1. With the coolant conditioner element (if (5) and thermostat. Discard gasket (8).
90
equipped) removed, remove two capscrews
(13) that secure the thermostat housing (5)
to coolant manifold (9).

Figure 90 — Coolant Conditioner and Thermostat Removal

1. Capscrew 8. Gasket
2. Coolant Conditioner Head Assembly (If Equipped) 9. Coolant Manifold
3. Check Valve Assembly (Only with Coolant Conditioner) 10. Clamps
4. O-Ring (Only with Coolant Conditioner) 11. Oil Cooler Supply (Bypass) Tube
5. Thermostat Housing 12. Coupling Hose
6. Thermostat Seal 13. Capscrew
7. Thermostat 14. Coolant Conditioner Filter Element (If Equipped)

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Coolant Manifold Removal
[215 NK]
The hex-head capscrews and washers used to
attach the manifold on early-production engines
Refer to Figure 91. are replaced by flangehead capscrews in later
1. Disconnect wires to dash gauge and production.
V-MAC III coolant temperature sensors, and
boost air temperature sensor. Position wires 4. Remove manifold assembly. It may be
out of way. necessary to pry or tap lightly with a soft
2. Disconnect and remove line between mallet on the housing sections to break the
coolant manifold and water pump. seal.
3. Support the coolant manifold sections and 5. If necessary, separate the two coolant
remove 12 capscrews (5) retaining the manifold sections (1 and 4) by loosening two
manifold sections (1 and 4) to the cylinder clamps (3) and removing the coupling (2).
heads. 6. If the coolant manifold is to be replaced,
remove sensor located on the manifold (4).
91

Figure 91 — Air Inlet/Coolant Manifold Removal (Shown with Two-Piece Air Inlet Manifold, Typical)

1. Coolant Manifold, Front Section 6. Air Inlet Manifold, Rear Section

2. Coupling Hose 7. Sensor
3. Clamp 8. Air Inlet Manifold, Front Section
4. Coolant Manifold, Rear Section 9. Capscrew, 12-Point
5. Capscrew

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Air Inlet Manifold Removal Water Pump Removal
[214 HD] [215 SW]
The following procedure applies for both the Refer to Figure 93.
early-production engines (right-side mounted
1. Disconnect coolant return hose to air
EECU) equipped with a two-piece air inlet
compressor (1) at fitting on water pump.
manifold and current-production engines (left-
side mounted EECU) equipped with a one-piece 2. Remove three mounting capscrews (3) and
manifold. remove water pump (2).
93

Refer to Figure 91 and Figure 92.

1. Support the air inlet manifold and remove
12 capscrews (9) that secure the manifold
(6 and 8) to the cylinder heads.
2. Remove air inlet manifold. It may be
necessary to gently pry or tap the manifold
lightly with a soft mallet to break the seal.
3. If the air inlet manifold is to be replaced,
remove sensor (7) located on the inlet
manifold (6), if installed.
92

Figure 93 — Water Pump Removal

1. Air Compressor Coolant 2. Water Pump

Return Line 3. Capscrew

Figure 92 — One-Piece Air Inlet Manifold

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Turbocharger Removal Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Assembly
[214 SD] Removal
[222 KD]
Refer to Figure 94.
1. Remove two capscrews (3) securing Refer to Figure 95.
turbocharger lubrication drain tube (4) to 1. Remove the four retaining nuts securing the
turbocharger (1). three-section heat shield to the cylinder
2. Remove drain tube (4) from cylinder block. block and remove shield.
3. Loosen four turbocharger mounting nuts (5) 2. Loosen the tube sleeve nut (1) at the unit
and remove turbocharger (1). pump for the No. 1 cylinder. Be careful to
94 avoid twisting the line while loosening the
nut.
3. Loosen tube sleeve nut (2) and tube
clamping screw at the cylinder head and
remove the tube assembly. Cap the line and
fittings to prevent contaminants from
entering the system.
95

Figure 95 — Fuel Inlet Tube Assembly Removal

1. EUP Sleeve Nut 2. Fuel Inlet Tube Clamping

Screw and Sleeve Nut

4. Repeat this procedure for the five remaining

Figure 94 — Turbocharger Removal
cylinders.
1. Turbocharger 4. Lubrication Drain Tube
2. Lubrication Supply Line 5. Mounting Nut
3. Capscrew

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Exhaust Manifold Removal 2. Remove the exhaust manifold.
3. Discard gaskets.
[214 EG] 96

1. Support the exhaust manifold and remove

12 mounting nuts (Figure 96) securing the
manifold to cylinder heads.

Figure 96 — Exhaust Manifold Removal

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Engine Wiring Harness Removal Engine Electronic Control Unit
1. Disconnect the harness at each of the EUP (EECU) and Cooling Plate Removal
terminals.
[230 EA]
2. Disconnect the harness at the EECU.
3. Disconnect the harness at the engine speed
Right-Side Mounted Assembly
and position sensors and any remaining
sensor locations not previously Refer to Figure 97.
disconnected. 1. Thoroughly clean the area around the EECU
4. Remove the harness attaching hardware harness connector to make sure the
and remove harness from the engine. terminals remain clean for reassembly.
2. Disconnect the wiring harness and coolant
inlet and outlet lines to the EECU cooling
plate if not already done.
3. Remove the five retaining nuts and isolating
washers that secure the EECU and cooling
plate to the cylinder block.
4. Carefully remove the EECU and cooling
plate from the block.
97

Figure 97 — EECU and Cooling Plate Removal

1. Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) 4. Cylinder Block

2. EECU Cooling Plate 5. Mounting Stud
3. Coolant Fitting 6. Isolating Washers

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Electronic Unit Pump (EUP) 5. Remove outboard EUP screw completely
and remove EUP from the cylinder block.
Removal Refer to Figure 98. Place the EUP in a clean
area and cover it to prevent entry of dirt and
[221 GP] other contaminants.
98

EUPs must be paint marked with the cylinder

number, and reinstalled at their original locations.
This will eliminate any need to reprogram EUP
information. If a new EUP is installed,
reprogramming must be performed.

1. Place a drain pan beneath the right side of

the engine. Remove the fuel-outlet fitting
from the cylinder block fuel-return gallery
above the air compressor. This allows fuel to
drain from the internal passages.

Figure 98 — EUP Removal

The EUP spring may be preloaded with 6. Remove roller tappet from the EUP bore by
significant spring tension, depending upon hand (Figure 99). Do not use a tool, as it
cam lobe position. To avoid injury from the could damage the bore. Place the roller
EUP springing outward, steps 2 through 4 tappet in a clean area and cover it to prevent
must be followed. the entry of dirt and other contaminants.
99

2. Remove the inboard EUP screw completely.

3. Loosen outboard EUP screw and back it out
1/2 inch.
4. Insert screwdrivers under the bolt bosses
(front and rear) and pry until the EUP comes
out against the screw head. (The EUP may
spring out against the screw head.)

The rapid upward movement of the EUP may

result in the tappet spring retainer becoming
dislodged from the plunger foot. If this occurs,
simply reinstall the retainer. This situation does
Figure 99 — Tappet Removal
not indicate any problem with the parts and
should not occur if the above procedures are
followed.
Oil Fill Tube Removal
Remove capscrews securing oil filler feed tube to
cylinder block. Remove tube.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Air Compressor Removal
[261 CK]
The air compressor is heavy. Lifting the air
compressor may require the help of an
Refer to Figure 100. assistant or suitable lifting device. Attempting
to lift the compressor without such
Disconnect two coolant lines (1 and 3) from the assistance may result in severe personal
air compressor head (2) at the fittings. Tag and injury.
cap lines.
100

Refer to Figure 101.

1. Remove three mounting capscrews (5)
securing air compressor (1) to auxiliary shaft
housing.
2. Taking care not to damage or lose the
lubrication oil supply tube (2), remove the air
compressor by pulling it rearward out of the
mounting flange. Discard gasket.

If the oil supply tube is lost and not reinstalled, the

air compressor will fail from lack of lubrication.

Figure 100 — Air Compressor Connections

1. Coolant Supply Line 5. Drain Fitting

2. Air Compressor Head 6. Air Governor Mounting
3. Coolant Return Line Flange
4. Capscrew

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
101

Figure 101 — Air Compressor Removal

1. Air Compressor 4. Oil Drain Openings

2. Oil Supply Tube 5. Capscrew
3. Auxiliary Shaft

Valve Cover and Spacer Removal Refer to Figure 102 for disassembled view.
1. Remove valve covers (1) by removing six
[213 JB] retaining capscrews (2) from each cover.
2. Discard seals.
3. If an engine brake is installed, perform the
If engine is equipped with an engine brake, a following:
spacer is installed under the valve cover. Longer a. Remove control wire (3) from left side
capscrews are used to secure the valve cover of each riser housing (4).
and spacer to the cylinder head.
b. Disconnect wires at the actuator
solenoid connector.
c. Remove spacers. Discard seals.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
102

The valve roller follower has an insert in the top

end to provide a hardened wear surface for
contact with the push rod (Figure 103). The insert
is staked in place during manufacture of the lifter
(later production is press fit). However, with very
early version roller lifters, insert movement can
take place during engine operation, resulting in
the insert no longer being retained by the staking.
As each push rod is removed, immediately
inspect the lower end to see if a lifter insert is
stuck to the push rod ball end. If an insert is
present, carefully place the push rod back into its
Figure 102 — Control Wire Removal installed position, and by feel, attempt to engage
the insert into its bore in the lifter top. Once fully
1. Valve Cover 3. Control Wire engaged, remove push rod with a twisting/side-
2. Capscrew 4. Spacer Housing
load motion, so the insert will remain in place in
the lifter bore.
Rocker Arm, Valve Yoke and Push 103

Rod Removal
[213 LP, NV & LH]
Refer to Figure 104.
1. If equipped with an engine brake, remove
the six capscrews (3) and washers retaining
the brake actuator assembly (13) and rocker
arm assembly (10) to each cylinder head.
2. Remove the brake actuator and rocker arm
assemblies from each cylinder head (one
actuator and rocker arm assembly per
head).

If an engine brake was not installed, there will be

six shorter capscrews retaining the rocker arm
assembly to the cylinder head.

3. Remove valve yokes from each pair of

valves by lifting straight up on each yoke.
Tag yokes for reassembly.
4. Remove valve push rods and tag rods for
reassembly.
Figure 103 — Valve Lifter Insert

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
104

Figure 104 — Rocker Arm Shaft and Engine Brake Assembly

1. Valve Cover 8. Exhaust Valve Yokes

2. Spacer 9. Actuator Pin Assembly
3. Capscrew 10. Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly
4. Spherical Jam Nut 11. Engine Brake Oil Supply Screw
5. Exhaust Adjusting Screw 12. Slave Piston Adjusting Screw
6. Standard Adjusting Screw and Jam Nut (Inlet Valves) 13. Engine Brake Assembly
7. Cylinder Head

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Nozzle Holder Removal 105

[222 KG]

SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED

r Injection Nozzle Puller J 37093

After removing the nozzles, it is a good practice

to label or tag them for reinstallation into the
same cylinders. After removal, place nozzles on a
clean surface.

Refer to Figure 105.

1. Remove nozzle holder retainer (2).
2. Assemble injection nozzle puller J 37093 as
follows:
a. Attach nut (12), bearing (11), spacer
(10) and rubber washer (9) to tool
handle (1).
b. Screw handle (1) in threaded hole of
nozzle holder (5) until rubber washer
(9) is slightly compressed.
Figure 105 — Nozzle Holder Removal
3. With tool in position, turn nut (12) clockwise
to draw nozzle holder from cylinder head 1. Handle 7. Gasket
nozzle mounting hole (8). 2. Nozzle Holder Retainer 8. Nozzle Mounting Hole
3. O-Rings 9. Rubber Washer
4. Continue turning nut until nozzle holder is 4. Alignment Pin 10. Spacer
free of insert. Remove nozzle holder and 5. Nozzle Holder 11. Bearing
puller tool as an assembly. 6. Nozzle 12. Nut

5. Remove nozzle holder gasket (7). The

gasket is manufactured from a special iron
material 0.060-inch (1.524 mm) thick.
6. Remove remaining nozzle holders in the
same manner.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Cylinder Head Assembly Removal
[213 EV]
Cylinder head assemblies are heavy. Lifting a
cylinder head requires the help of an
Refer to Figure 106. assistant or suitable lifting device. Attempting
1. Remove fuel return tube (2) from between to lift a cylinder head without assistance may
the cylinder head assemblies (4) by result in severe personal injury.
loosening the tube sleeve nuts from each
end. 4. Using a suitable lifting device, remove heads
2. Remove fuel return line (3) at the rear of the from the cylinder block.
rearward cylinder head, if not already 5. Remove gaskets and six fire rings. Discard
removed. gaskets and fire rings.
106
3. Remove cylinder head bolts (1 and 5). Refer
to cylinder head bolt torque sequence chart
under Cylinder Head Installation in Engine
Reassembly, for location of bolts, if
necessary.

Figure 106 — Cylinder Heads

1. Bolt 4. Cylinder Head

2. Fuel Return Tube 5. Bolt (with Bracket Mounting Capscrew Hole in Head)
3. Fuel Return Line

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Vibration Damper and Crankshaft 108

Hub Removal
[212 RB, RH]
1. Remove six mounting capscrews (3). Refer
to Figure 107.
107

Figure 108 — Crankshaft Hub Removal

1. Crankshaft Hub 2. Puller

Oil Pan Removal

[211 NB]

Make sure all loose components are secured

to, or removed from, the engine before
rotating engine on the stand. Failure to do so
may result in damage to components or
severe personal injury.

Refer to Figure 109.

1. Remove the nuts from the two studs (early
production) or shouldered bolts (current
Figure 107 — Vibration Damper Removal
production) securing the oil pan to the front
cover.
1. Vibration Damper 3. Mounting Capscrews
2. Pulley 4. Hub Capscrew 2. Remove the nuts from the two studs (early
production) or shouldered bolts (current
2. Remove vibration damper (1) and fan belt production) securing the oil pan to the
drive pulley (2) together. flywheel housing.
3. Using a suitable wrench, remove crankshaft 3. Remove the remaining integral hex-head
hub capscrew (4). shoulder studs and shouldered bolts
securing the oil pan to the pan rails and
4. Using a suitable puller such as J 24420-C, remove the oil pan.
remove the crankshaft hub. Refer to
Figure 108.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
109

Oil pans with isolating gaskets are secured with a

combination of shouldered bolts and shouldered
studs with separate nuts (two piece) or integral
hex-head shoulder studs (one piece) along the
pan rails. Some early engine versions used an
additional washer between the nut and the
isolator.

Figure 109 — Isolating Oil Pan Hex-Head Shoulder Bolt (A) and Shoulder Stud (B) Locations

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Oil Pump Removal Remove the oil pump as a unit by removing three
retaining capscrews (1).
[219 MU]
Refer to Figure 110.

If the oil pump must be disassembled for any

reason, it will be easier to loosen the housing
cover retaining capscrews, the screen, the oil
inlet tube capscrews, the cover plate capscrews,
and the relief valve cap while the pump is still
secured in position. Do so before loosening the
three retaining capscrews.
The E-Tech™ screen for the oil inlet tube is held
in place by a steel retainer ring.
110

Figure 110 — Lubrication Oil Pump

1. Pump Mounting Capscrews 5. Screen

2. Capscrews 6. Relief Valve Cap
3. Capscrews, 12-Point 7. Capscrews
4. Oil Inlet (Pickup) Tube 8. Plate

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Front Cover Removal 111

[211 RP]

For early-production engines equipped with

studs, it is not recommended to remove the front
cover without first removing the oil pan. Doing so
may result in damage to the isolating oil pan
gasket. Current-production engines use shoulder
bolts in the front cover positions making removal
of the oil pan not necessary.

Refer to Figure 111.

1. Remove front engine mount pedestal (2) by
removing six retaining capscrews (3 and 4).
2. Remove remaining mounting capscrews
from front cover (1).
3. Remove front cover. It will be necessary to
pry the cover from the engine block. Be
careful not to damage cover or block while
using sharp tools around machined
surfaces.

Figure 111 — Front Cover Removal

1. Front Cover 5. Nut

2. Pedestal 6. Washer
3. Capscrew (Short) 7. Cover
4. Capscrew (Long) 8. Gasket

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Auxiliary Shaft Removal 3. Remove two retaining capscrews from
auxiliary shaft captured thrust washer.
[212 CV] Remove washer.

Refer to Figure 112. Refer to Figure 114.

112

Be very careful to avoid damaging the auxiliary

shaft bushings or journals while removing the
shaft.

4. Remove the auxiliary shaft (3) by pulling it

rearward out of the air compressor mounting
flange opening. With engine oil pump in
position, a rotating motion may be
necessary to clear the engine oil pump drive
gear (5).
114

Figure 112 — Auxiliary Shaft Gear

1. Nut 4. Captured Thrust Washer

2. Auxiliary Shaft Gear 5. Shaft Splines
3. Capscrew

1. Remove auxiliary shaft gear retaining nut

(1).
2. Using a suitable puller such as J 4558-01,
remove auxiliary shaft gear (2) from the
splines (5) on the end of shaft (Figure 113).
113

Figure 114 — Auxiliary Shaft Removal

1. Rear Bushing 4. Rear Journal

2. Front Journal 5. Oil Pump Drive Gear
3. Auxiliary Shaft

Figure 113 — Auxiliary Shaft Gear Removal

1. Auxiliary Shaft Gear 2. Puller

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Camshaft Removal 115

[213 CH]

Make sure all loose components are secured

to, or removed from, the engine before
rotating engine on the stand. Failure to do so
may result in damage to components or
severe personal injury.

1. Rotate engine so that the oil pan rail is

upward (engine inverted).

When engine is rotated, the roller valve lifters will

fall downward into the push rod holes and rest
against the H-rings. They will be out of the way
for camshaft removal.

2. Remove the two 12-point capscrews (3) that

retain camshaft thrust washer (1). Camshaft
may have to be rotated slightly to make the
capscrews accessible through openings (2)
in the camshaft drive gear (4). Refer to
Figure 115. Figure 115 — Camshaft Thrust Washer Capscrews

1. Thrust Washer 3. Capscrew, 12-Point

2. Openings 4. Camshaft Drive Gear

3. Install the camshaft removal/installation tool

J 41682 (Figure 116) in position on the rear
segment of the camshaft, securing it with the
clip to the shaft.
116

Figure 116 — Camshaft Installation Guide

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
4. Taking care not to damage camshaft or Piston and Connecting Rod
bushings, pull camshaft out of the front of
the engine (Figure 117). Carefully guide rear Assembly Removal
of shaft through the journals. If shaft does
not come out freely, ensure all valve lifters
[212 NP, LQ]
are clear of camshaft cams and journals.
117

The crankshaft and related components are

heavy, have sharp edges and many possible
pinch points. Always be careful while working
in this area to avoid serious personal injury.

Before removing pistons, connecting rods and

rod caps, ensure they are marked so they can be
reinstalled in the same cylinders from which they
were removed.
Remove connecting rod and piston assemblies in
Figure 117 — Camshaft Removal companion cylinder sets: 1 and 6, 2 and 5, and 3
and 4.
5. Remove valve lifters.
1. Rotate engine stand 90 degrees so that
pistons lie horizontally in the block with top
of pistons and connecting rods accessible.
Valve lifters have established wear patterns and 2. Rotate crankshaft so that pistons 1 and 6
should be reinstalled in same locations. Label are lowered in the cylinder at least 2 inches
each valve lifter upon removal and place on a (51 mm) to allow adequate room to remove
clean work surface. carbon from upper edge of sleeves.
Refer to Figure 118.
3. Using a sharp knife, carefully remove any
carbon at the top of the sleeves. Remove
any remaining carbon using crocus cloth or
fine sandpaper. Then wipe inside of sleeves
with a clean cloth.

Use care not to damage the cylinder sleeve when

removing carbon buildup.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
118 119

Figure 118 — Carbon Removal from Cylinder Sleeves Figure 119 — Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly
Removal
Refer to Figure 119.
5. Using a hammer handle, push piston 1 from
4. Rotate crankshaft so that pistons 1 and 6 the cylinder bore. Remove piston 6 in the
are at bottom dead center. Remove same manner.
connecting rod capscrews and rod bearing
caps. 6. After removing pistons 1 and 6, rotate
crankshaft so that next set of pistons (2 and
5) is at bottom dead center.
7. Repeat steps 2 through 6 for removing
piston sets 2 and 5, and 3 and 4.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Flywheel Removal 120

[212 UC]
Refer to Figure 120.
1. With engine stand rotated so that engine is
inverted (crankshaft horizontal), loosen all
six flywheel retaining capscrews.

On vehicles equipped with an automatic

transmission, it may be necessary to remove
additional components to gain access to the
flywheel retaining capscrews. Refer to Automatic
Transmission Drive Arrangement Assembly
Instructions manual 5-902 for instructions
regarding these arrangements.

2. Remove two of the flywheel retaining

capscrews that are opposite each other.
Install two longer capscrews or studs to
allow flywheel to be safely removed from the
crankshaft.
3. Remove remaining capscrews.
4. Carefully tap flywheel by alternating from
side to side to work it off the aligning dowel Figure 120 — Flywheel Removal
pins.
5. Support the flywheel and remove two guide
capscrews.
6. Using a suitable lifting device such as
The flywheel is heavy. Lifting the flywheel will J 25026-A, or adequate assistance, remove
require the help of an assistant or the use of a flywheel.
suitable lifting device (J 25026-A or
equivalent). Attempting to lift a flywheel
without such assistance may result in severe
personal injury.

Remove flywheel timing pointer, if present, to

avoid damaging the pointer during flywheel
removal.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Flywheel Housing Removal
[211 HD]
Refer to Figure 121.
1. Remove eight mounting capscrews (3) from
flywheel housing (2).
2. Remove flywheel housing. It may be
necessary to tap lightly on the housing with
a soft mallet to separate housing from
engine block.
121

Figure 121 — Flywheel Housing Removal

1. Capscrew Locations 3. Capscrew

2. Flywheel Housing

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Main Bearing Cap Removal Refer to Figure 122.
1. Remove eight buttress capscrews (2 and 3).
[211 JA]
2. Remove main bearing capscrews (1) from
each of the seven bearing caps (4 and 5).
The center main bearing cap (5) houses the
thrust washers.
Before removing main bearing caps, ensure they
are marked so they can be reinstalled on the 3. Position a lady-foot pry bar under the tabs
same journals. Keep the bearings with the same provided on bearing caps and pry bearing
cap and tag, or mark them to identify the cam caps upward. To work them loose, it may be
side of the bearings. necessary to tap the bearing caps
alternately from side to side with a soft
mallet.
122

Figure 122 — Buttress Capscrew Installation

1. Main Bearing Cap Capscrews 4. Main Bearing Caps

2. Buttress Capscrews, 80 mm 5. Center Main Bearing Cap
3. Buttress Capscrews, 110 mm

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Crankshaft Removal CYLINDER BLOCK
[212 HP] RECONDITIONING
[211 DB]
Refer to Figure 123.
1. Using a suitable lifting device, secure a sling Special Tools Required
or crankshaft support tool around the
crankshaft and lifting device hook. Ensure r Camshaft Bushing Installation/Removal Kit
crankshaft is evenly balanced when lifted J 42377
from the engine block. r Camshaft Bushing Remover/Installer
2. Lift crankshaft from engine block and store J 21428-01
in a secured stand, or horizontally on r Counterbore Tool PT2210
V-blocks.
123 r Counterbore Cutter Plate PT2210-3A
r Hex Key Wrench PT2210-14
r Universal Dial Depth Gauge PT5025
r 3-Inch Stylus Extension PT5025-11

Piston Cooling Spray Nozzle

Removal
[219 RV]

To avoid damaging the spray nozzles, remove

them before removing the sleeves.

It is best to use a 10-mm, 6-point socket on a

12-inch extension to remove the nozzle retaining
capscrews.

Refer to Figure 124.

1. Remove the piston cooling spray nozzle (2)
by removing the retaining capscrew (3).
Figure 123 — Crankshaft Removal
2. Carefully pull outward on the spray nozzle to
3. Remove the main journal bearing inserts remove it from the block.
from the cylinder block and tag for 3. Remove and discard the elastomer seal (1).
inspection.
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 to remove the
remaining spray nozzles.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
124
Refer to Figure 125 and Figure 126.
1. Rotate the engine in the stand so that it is
upright (deck surface upward).
2. Use puller PT6435, or equivalent, to remove
the cylinder sleeve (1) from the cylinder
block (4).
3. Position the puller above the sleeve and
guide the puller shaft through the sleeve.

Extreme care must be taken to make sure the

puller shoe is properly aligned in the bottom of
Figure 124 — Spray Nozzle Removal the sleeve to prevent damage to the block.

1. Elastomer Seal 3. Capscrew 4. Position the puller shoe so that it catches the
2. Spray Nozzle lower lip of the sleeve. Ensure that it does
not extend beyond the outside edges of the
sleeve so it will not come into contact with
Cylinder Sleeve Removal the cylinder block as the sleeve is removed.
[212 NC] 5. Tighten screw on the puller until the sleeve
comes free from the cylinder block bore.
Remove shims (2), if any are installed.
SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED 125

r Cylinder Liner/Sleeve Puller PT6435

With early engine production, a crevice seal,

similar to an O-ring, was installed in the groove
located in the outside diameter of the cylinder
sleeve, near the sleeve top. It has been
determined, however, that the crevice seal is not
necessary. Therefore, effective approximately
December 1998, the crevice seal is no longer
used in production engines. Additionally, effective
January 1999, the crevice seal groove in the
cylinder sleeve has been eliminated.
Effective with these production changes, cylinder Figure 125 — Cylinder Liner/Sleeve Puller PT6435
sleeve part Nos. 509GC463 and 509GC466 for
service use will not have the crevice seal groove, 6. Remove the puller from the sleeve.
and it is recommended that use of the crevice
seal be discontinued in all engine repairs or 7. Remove the crevice seal from the sleeve, if
rebuilds, whether or not the liner has a crevice so equipped.
seal groove. 8. Repeat steps 2 through 7 to remove the
remaining cylinder sleeves.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
126

Compressed air used for cleaning can create

airborne particles that may enter the eyes or
irritate the skin. Pressure must not exceed
30 psi (207 kPa). Eye protection is required.
Use only with effective chip guarding and
personal protective equipment (goggles/
shield, gloves, etc.).

Cleaning the cylinder block is important. While

cleaning the cylinder block, carefully inspect the
areas around the cup plugs and the coolant
jacket. If cup plugs or pipe plugs show signs of
leaking, they should be replaced.
Cleaning the cylinder block is a good time to
inspect it for cracks or other possible defects that
may be reason for rejection. Refer to the
TROUBLESHOOTING section of this manual for
information on testing for leaks in the cylinder
head and cylinder block. If damage is not found
until after the engine is assembled, the engine
must be disassembled and rebuilt again.
Figure 126 — Cylinder Sleeve Removal
SOLVENT TANK CLEANING
1. Cylinder Sleeve 3. Counterbore Ledge
2. Shims 4. Cylinder Block

Cleaning and Inspection Use a cleaning tank large enough to

accommodate the largest component to be
The engine should have been thoroughly steam cleaned. Fill the tank with a suitable solvent and
cleaned prior to component removal. If heavy always use caution while cleaning parts. Parts
accumulations of dirt and grease are still present, may be dried with compressed air.
steam clean the block as thoroughly as possible
before attempting to clean with solvents. 1. Scrape any remaining gasket material from
the block.
2. Using a wire brush or rotary wheel, remove
Cleaning solvent is flammable and toxic to the any rust, corrosion or other debris from the
eyes, skin and respiratory tract. Skin and eye block.
protection is required. Avoid repeated or 3. Clean all other block surfaces with mineral
prolonged contact. Use only in well-ventilated spirits or other suitable solvent.
area.
4. Using due care and caution, clean and dry
the block with compressed air.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
INSPECTION Cylinder Sleeve Counterbore
[211 DB]
A complete discussion of the proper methods of
precision measuring and inspection is outside the INSPECTION AND REPAIR
scope of this manual. However, every shop If the cylinder block deck is resurfaced, the
should be equipped with standard gauges, such cylinder sleeve counterbore depth must be recut
as bore gauges, dial indicators, outside and to specification. If the cylinder block deck was not
inside micrometers, thickness gauges and resurfaced but cylinder sleeve counterbore
straightedges. surface shows excessive pitting or erosion, recut
the counterbore as required.
Check the cylinder block for indications of Use shims to re-establish the correct liner flange
cracking or coolant leakage. If any damage is height. Shims are available in the following
suspected, use a standard dye penetrant or thicknesses: 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.008, 0.010,
magnaflux procedure to determine if cracks exist. 0.012 and 0.014 inch.
A cracked engine block must be replaced and
never reused. To resurface the cylinder sleeve counterbore area
of the cylinder block, use counterbore tool
Refer to Figure 127. PT2210 with counterbore cutter plate PT2210-3A.
Using a straightedge (PT5027 or equivalent) and
thickness gauges, check the cylinder head
mounting surfaces for flatness. The cylinder block
mounting surface on a service block should be This procedure can be performed either in or out
flat within 0.004 inch (0.102 mm). of the chassis. If performing the procedure in the
127 chassis, be sure to cover the crankshaft and any
holes in the block to prevent contamination from
machining chips.

Do not cut seats deeper than 4.034 inches

(102.464 mm).

1. Make sure that the top of the deck is clean

and free of burrs. Use a finish mill file and
crocus cloth, if necessary, to create a
smooth, flat surface for positioning the tool.
2. Using compressed air, thoroughly remove all
debris.
Figure 127 — Checking Flatness of Cylinder Block Deck

Universal dial depth gauge PT5025, with a three-

If the cylinder block is determined to be inch stylus extension PT5052-11, is
serviceable after thorough cleaning and recommended for measuring the counterbore.
inspection, reassemble the engine. Use
replacement or original parts, as determined
during component inspection.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
3. Measure and record the counterbore in four 3. Position the tool in the cylinder bore by
places, 90 degrees apart. Using a depth backing off the depth-set collars (5 and 16)
gauge with a three-inch extension, mark the and lowering the cutter plate (13) into the
shallowest point. Subtract the lowest counterbore to center the tool.
number from the highest number. This is the
4. Secure the cutter plate to the cylinder block
minimum amount to be machined for
with four M16 x 2 x 90 hex-head capscrews
cleanup.
(3) and special washers (4) from the
counterbore tool kit PT2210.
SETTING UP COUNTERBORE TOOL PT2210
5. Cross-torque the capscrews to 30 lb-ft
WITH CUTTER PLATE PT2210-3A
(41 N•m) using torque wrench J 24406 or
Refer to Figure 128. equivalent.
1. Loosen the two cutter bit hold-down
capscrews (9). Install cutter bit (11) into
cutter plate PT2210-3A (13) by turning the
cutter bit adjuster (10) counterclockwise. Lift T-handle (2) slightly (so cutter plate is not in
Cutter bit face must be facing a clockwise contact with the counterbore) and rotate the
rotation cut. mainshaft (15) counterclockwise to ensure cutter
plate turns freely without binding. If necessary,
loosen the capscrews and relocate the tool.

Do not tighten the cutter bit hold-down cap (12). 6. Using the counterbore tool T-handle (2),
raise the cutter plate approximately 1/2 inch
The cutter point should not extend beyond the (12.7 mm) from the counterbore ledge.
outer edge of the cutter plate. If the cutter bit does
stick out, damage to the bit will occur when 7. Using hex key wrench PT2210-14 (18), turn
installing counterbore tool onto cylinder block. the cutter bit adjusting screw (10) clockwise
until the cutter bit contacts the counterbore
ledge. Do not touch the counterbore wall.
2. Install the cutter plate on the main shaft (15).
Use the large end of hex key wrench 8. Back off the lower depth-set collar (16) and
PT2210-14 (18) to hold the cutter plate and lower the cutter plate until the cutter rests on
tighten securely. The hole in the side of the the ledge.
cutter plate accepts the large end of the tool.
9. Rotate the lower depth-set collar down until
the collar contacts the main housing.
10. Rotate the collar an additional five
Do not allow the cutter bit (11) to touch the increments totaling 0.005 inch (0.127 mm).
cylinder sleeve bore wall. Each graduation of the collar is one-
thousandth (0.001) of an inch (0.025 mm).
This will lift the cutter bit 0.005 inch
(0.127 mm) off the counterbore ledge,
allowing an accurate setting of the cutter bit.
When the entire block must be counterbored, cut
the deepest bores first. This way, the tool can be
adjusted to the lowest depth and used for all
cylinders, ensuring uniform depth on all cylinder It may be necessary to use a flashlight to see the
counterbores. cutter bit adjusting screw.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
11. Using hex key wrench PT2210-14 (18), turn
the cutter bit adjusting screw clockwise until
the cutter bit rests on the counterbore ledge.
Do not force the collar beyond this point, as it will
12. If the cutter bit will not adjust, adjust the lift the cutter plate and prevent an accurate zero
lower depth-set collar (16) 0.005 inch reading.
(0.127 mm) more and recheck cutter bit
hold-down screws for looseness.
14. Set the depth of the cut. Determine the final
13. Zero the depth-set collars: depth of the cut and back off the top depth-
set collar accordingly. Each increment on the
a. Back off the lower depth-set collar (16)
depth-set collar increases the depth of the
and carefully lower the cutter plate (13)
cut by one-thousandth (0.001) of an inch
into the bore and allow the cutter to rest
(0.025 mm). Tighten the thumbscrew (17) on
on the counterbore ledge.
the upper collar (5) securely.
b. Rotate both depth-set collars (5 and 16)
down until the bottom collar contacts
the main housing (8).

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
128

Figure 128 — Counterbore Ledge Tool Installation

1. Cutter Plate Holder 10. Cutter Bit Adjuster

2. T-Handle 11. Cutter Bit
3. Capscrews, M16 x 2 x 90 12. Hold-Down Cap
4. Special Washers 13. Cutter Plate
5. Upper Depth-Set Collar 14. Cylinder Block
6. Lower Thumbscrew 15. Main Shaft
7. Oil Fill Tube 16. Lower Depth-Set Collar
8. Main Housing 17. Upper Thumbscrew
9. Hold-Down Capscrews 18. Hex Key Wrench

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
CUTTING THE COUNTERBORE COUNTERBORE DEPTH MEASUREMENT
Refer back to Figure 128. Measure the counterbore depth (Figure 129) and
calculate the number of shims (part Nos.
1. Fill the oil fill tube (7) with 30W nondetergent
505GC26P2, P3, P4, P10, P12 and P14) needed
oil to maintain lubrication during use.
to obtain proper cylinder sleeve flange height.
2. Back off the lower depth-set collar (16) two The shim “P” number signifies shim thickness,
increments or less, and tighten the i.e., P14 is 0.014-inch thick. When installing
thumbscrew (6) securely. shims, always use the thickest shims and the
least amount of shims as possible to obtain the
3. Cut the counterbore by turning the T-handle
proper sleeve flange height.
clockwise while maintaining constant
downward pressure on the tool. Stop the
handle in a different position to avoid
creating a ridge in the counterbore.
The standard production counterbore depth has
4. Continue backing off the lower depth-set been changed from 4.000–4.004 inches to
collar, no more than two graduations per cut. 3.998–4.002 inches.
Check the depth measurement between
each adjustment. Plan to remove 0.001 inch 129

(0.025 mm) on the final cut to meet the final

predetermined counterbore depth. This
ensures achieving a very fine machined
finish.
5. Remove the tool from the cylinder bore.
a. Loosen the two cutter bit hold-down
capscrews (9) and rotate the cutter bit
adjusting screw (10) counterclockwise
until the cutter bit is retracted into the
cutter plate (13).
b. Remove the four machine hold-down
bolts (3) and special washers (4).
c. Remove the tool from the cylinder bore.
6. Follow steps 1 through 5 for the remaining
cylinders.

Figure 129 — Counterbore Depth Measurement

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Cup Plug Replacement INSTALLATION

REMOVAL 1. After cleaning the plug hole, apply a thin

coat of Loctite® 277 to both the surface of
Refer to Figure 130. the hole and the outer edge of the plug.
1. Using a hammer and punch, drive one edge 2. Using a proper driver, align the plug in the
of the plug inward. The plug should rotate hole and drive it inward until the outer lip of
causing the opposite edge to move outward. the plug is flush with the cylinder block.
When the edge moves out far enough, grab Refer to Figure 131.
it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. 131

If, after several taps with a hammer, the plug does

not rotate and is being driven inward, stop
tapping. Drill a hole approximately 1/8 inch
(3.2 mm) in diameter in the center of the plug.
Insert a sheet-metal screw in the hole. Leave
enough of the screw protruding from the plug to
allow a pry bar to be inserted under the head of
the screw and pry the plug out.

2. Clean the plug hole(s) with a wire brush or

wire wheel. After cleaning, visually check the
surface for cracks. Figure 131 — Cylinder Block Cup Plug Installation
130

Figure 130 — Cylinder Block Plugs

1. Coolant Passage Cup 3. Lower Fuel Gallery Pipe

Plug Plug
2. Upper Fuel Gallery Pipe 4. Oil Gallery Pipe Plug
Plug

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Pipe Plug Replacement H-Ring Replacement
[213 LD]

Any rust around a pipe plug is an indication of a H-rings are placed in the lifter bores to prevent
leak and the plug should be replaced. the lifters from turning, and performing the same
function as the roller tappet guide pins used with
electronic unit pumps. The H-rings have an
interference fit with the lifter bores in which they
REMOVAL are installed and, under normal circumstances,
1. Using an appropriate wrench, remove the are never removed.
plug.
If an unusual failure situation results in an H-ring
2. Clean the threads in the block by running a being dislodged, it can be reinstalled or replaced
tap into the hole, just far enough to remove with a new part, as required, using the following
any rust on the threads without expanding procedure:
the diameter of the hole. Use compressed
air to remove any chips from the block. 1. Remove the affected H-ring, using remover
tool J 42426 in combination with slide
hammer J 6125-1B. Refer to Figure 132.
132

It is best to replace a leaking pipe plug. However,

if reusing the same plug, clean thoroughly, paying
special attention to the threads.

3. Using a wire wheel, clean the threads of the

plug. Visually check the thread surfaces for
burrs or damage. Then clean and check the
remaining surfaces.

INSTALLATION
Apply an appropriate Teflon® thread sealant to
the threads and install the plug. Tighten the plug
to specification. Refer to the torque chart in the
SPECIFICATIONS section of this manual.

New plugs may already have a sealer applied to

the threads. Applying a Teflon® sealer to the
threads will not adversely affect the precoating.

Figure 132 — H-Ring Removal

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134

In some cases, the H-ring remover tool may not

position the collet far enough into the H-ring to
provide proper engagement for removal. If this
situation occurs, remove 0.375 inches (9.5 mm)
of the threads by grinding or cutting them down;
remove any burrs. This will allow the tool to be
positioned further into the lifter bore.

2. Inspect the cylinder block lifter bore and

place a new H-ring into the top of the bore. If
a new H-ring is a slip-fit in the bore, the bore
is oversize.
Figure 134 — H-Ring Installation
3. If the lifter bore appears OK (will support the
interference fit of the H-ring), clean the bore
and dislodged H-ring (or new H-ring, if
required) with Loctite® Primer T. Then apply
Loctite® RC/609 to the bore and to the Be sure the H-ring is installed with grooved side
H-ring outside surface. toward the bottom. Refer to Figure 135.
4. Use service tool J 41683 to install the H-ring. 135
This tool pilots into two lifter bores at the
same time to properly align and install the
H-ring. If the proper interference fit has been
maintained, resistance should be felt as the
H-ring is driven into the bore. Refer to
Figure 133 and Figure 134.
133

Figure 135 — H-Ring

Figure 133 — H-Ring Installation Tool

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Camshaft Bushing Replacement 2. Remove the remaining six bushings in
sequence.
[213 CC] 3. Check the bushing bore diameters and finish
in the block, using a telescoping gauge or
Typically, camshaft bushings have an extremely inside micrometer.
long service life and need not be replaced unless
they are obviously damaged or worn beyond
normal wear limits. However, It is good policy to CAMSHAFT BUSHING ALIGNMENT
replace the camshaft bushings when overhauling Each camshaft bushing is located at set
the engine out of chassis, even if the bushings distances from the thrust washer mounting
are within acceptable wear tolerances. surface to the forward edge of the bushing. Refer
to Figure 137.
REMOVAL
When installed to the proper dimensions, the
intermediate bushings (locations 2, 3, 5 and 6)
are approximately centered in their bores, in the
front-to-rear direction. The front, center and rear
Camshaft bushings are identified in sequence, 1 bushings, however, are not centered. The offsets
to 7, starting from the front of the engine. are described as follows:

1. Using camshaft bushing remover/installer r No. 1 bushing — Installed with the front of
J 42377 (with J 21428-01 Cam Bushing the bushing flush, to 0.030 inch behind the
Installer Set) and a hammer, remove the front face of the bore. There is
No. 1 camshaft bushing from the cylinder approximately 1/8-inch of the bore visible on
block. Refer to Figure 136. the rear side of the bushing.
136
r No. 4 bushing — When installed correctly,
there is approximately 0.400 inch (10 mm) of
bore visible at the front face of the bushing,
and approximately 0.040 inch (1 mm) of
bushing protrusion from the rear of the bore.
r No. 7 bushing — When installed correctly,
there is an approximate 1/8-inch wide
section of bore visible at the front face of the
bushing.

Installing the cam bushings to the correct

dimensions optimizes bushing-to-cylinder block
oil hole alignment. Even when installed to the
proper dimensions, however, the No. 1 and No. 4
bushings have only approximately 1/2-to-2/3 of
the oil hole in alignment with the oil hole in the
bore, as 100 percent oil hole alignment is not
attainable or required.

Beginning approximately mid-December 1999, a

groove, 360 degrees around the inside diameter,
has been added to the camshaft bushings (part
No. 57GB37). The grooved bushings can be used
with either the grooved or non-grooved camshaft
journals, and the camshaft with grooved journals
can be used with either grooved or non-grooved
Figure 136 — Camshaft Bushing Removal bushings. Parts can be intermixed in an engine.

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137

Figure 137 — Camshaft Bushing Locations

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
BUSHING INSTALLATION
1. Clean the surfaces of the bushing and the
bore. Dry both surfaces with compressed air. Correct installation of each camshaft bushing is
2. Using a dark-colored felt-tip marker, mark very important. If a bushing is not properly
the block and bushing with a line to facilitate aligned with both its oil supply and oil feed
correct alignment at installation. Refer to passages in the cylinder block, either the
Figure 138. camshaft bushing will fail or the components
138 lubricated by the bushing feed will fail from
inadequate lubrication.

5. Install the camshaft bushings in sequence,

starting at the back of the cylinder block with
No. 7 and finishing with No. 1.
6. After all the bushings are in place, measure
the ID of each to ensure that they are not
undersize because of burrs on the OD
caused by installation (Figure 139). Refer to
the Fits and Limits charts in the
SPECIFICATIONS section for the correct
bushing ID dimensions.
139

Figure 138 — Camshaft Bushing Installation

1. Bushing Oil Hole 5. Alignment Mark

2. Bushing 6. Mounting Hole
3. Pilot Adapter (J 42377) 7. Block Oil Passage
4. Bushing Remover/
Installer (J 21428-01 Kit)

3. Position the replacement bushing (2) against

the side of the block at the No. 7 (rear)
bushing bore. Align the oil hole in the
bushing (1) with the oil passage (7) in the
block.
4. Using bushing remover/installer J 42377 Figure 139 — Camshaft Bushing ID Check
(with J 21428-01 Cam Bushing Installer
Set), install the bushing.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Auxiliary Shaft Bushing BUSHING REMOVAL
Replacement Use J 21428-01 to remove the bushings. If there
is any indication that a bushing has turned in the
[212 CB] block, check the bushing bore diameter with a
telescoping gauge or inside micrometer.
The front and rear auxiliary shaft bushings are
identical. Procedures for inspection and BUSHING INSTALLATION
replacement are as follow:

INSPECTION
Correct installation of the auxiliary shaft bushings
1. Using a telescope gauge or inside
is very important. If the front bushing is
micrometer, measure the auxiliary bushing
misaligned, lubrication oil flow to the front
bores. Take two readings, perpendicular to
bushing and journal will be blocked. The rear
each other, in each bore. Record the
bushing does not have any cylinder block oil
readings. Refer to Figure 140.
passage to align with the holes in the bushing.
2. Compare the readings with tolerances listed However, the oil holes in the bushing and the oil
under Fits and Limits in the groove between those oil holes are in the most
SPECIFICATIONS section. desirable location when the bushing is installed
140
with indexing notches at the 5:30 and 10 o’clock
positions.
Use care not to lose the short oil feed tube,
1.25 inches (32 mm) in length, which connects
the oil feed hole in the rear of the auxiliary shaft to
the oil feed hole in the front of the air compressor
crankshaft. If it is accidentally lost during air
compressor or auxiliary shaft service work and
not reinstalled, the compressor will fail from oil
starvation. Also, the loss of oil pressure resulting
from the missing tube can cause damage and
problems in other components and parts.

Figure 140 — Auxiliary Shaft Bushing ID Check

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Oil hole alignment of the front bushing-to-cylinder the bushing oil holes, so simply install the
block oil holes must be checked prior to, and at bushings with the indexing notches at the 5:30
the completion of, installation. The cylinder block and 10 o’clock positions. Refer to Figure 141 and
rear bushing bore has no oil holes to align with Figure 142.
141

Figure 141 — Front Camshaft and Auxiliary Shaft Assembly Notch Locations

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142 143

Figure 142 — Rear Auxiliary Bushing Alignment Figure 143 — Auxiliary Shaft Bushing Alignment

1. Clean the surfaces of the bushing and the 1. Alignment Mark 4. Camshaft Bushing
bore. Dry both surfaces with compressed air. 2. Bushing Remover/Installer
3. Pilot Adapter J 37713 (J 21428-01 Kit)
2. Using a dark-colored felt-tip marker, mark
the block and the bushing with a line (1) to
facilitate correct alignment during 4. Using camshaft bushing removal/installation
installation. Refer to Figure 143. tool J 21428-01 (4) and the appropriate pilot
adapter (3), install the bushing.
3. Position the replacement bushing (2) against
the front face of the block at the front 5. Check the bushing surface for burrs caused
bushing bore. Align the oil hole in the by installation.
bushing with the hole in the block. 6. After the bushing is in place, measure the ID
to ensure that the bushing is not undersize
because of burrs on the OD caused by
installation. Refer to the Fits and Limits chart
in the SPECIFICATIONS section in this
manual for the bushing ID dimensions.

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7. Working from the front of the cylinder block,
repeat steps 1 through 6 to install the front
bushing.
The front auxiliary shaft bushing must be flush or
8. Bushings must be installed to the depths recessed within 0.030 inch (0.763 mm) of the
described in Figure 144. machined front surface of the cylinder block.
Incorrect recess will cause misalignment of the oil
supply hole, resulting in insufficient lubrication of
the journal. Also, any bushing protrusion will allow
the thrust washer to seat on the bushing and
result in the thrust washer mounting screws
coming loose.
144

Figure 144 — Auxiliary Bushing Installation Dimensions

9. Install the thrust washer and tighten the

retaining screws to the specified torque,
15 lb-ft (20 N•m).

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Cylinder Sleeve Installation INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Refer to Figure 145.
[212 NC]
1. Thoroughly clean and dry the prepared
cylinder block (4), counterbore ledge (3) and
GENERAL INFORMATION cylinder sleeves (1). Refer to the cylinder
The cylinder sleeves are a wet-dry design made block cleaning and inspection procedures in
of centrifugally cast alloyed iron. Working with the this section.
pistons, piston rings, cylinder heads and cylinder 2. If the counterbore ledge (3) has been cut,
head gaskets, the sleeves provide a seal against place the shims (2) on the cylinder block
combustion pressure. The sleeves also transfer counterbore ledge. Use the fewest number
combustion heat to the engine coolant and guide of shims required to achieve the proper
piston travel. Correct extension of the sleeve cylinder sleeve flange height. Always place
flange above the top deck and uniform cylinder the thickest shim on the bottom.
block counterbore are essential for satisfactory
sleeve service life and head gasket seal.

If shims are used, apply RTV silicone on top of

the shims only. If RTV is applied under the shims,
With early engine production, a crevice seal, the shims may be displaced when the sleeve is
similar to an O-ring, was installed in the groove installed
located in the outside diameter of the cylinder
sleeve, near the sleeve top. It has been 3. Apply approximately a 0.120–0.160-inch
determined, however, that the crevice seal is not (3.048–4.064-mm) bead of RTV silicone
necessary. Therefore, effective approximately (MACK Silastic® 342SX32, Dow Corning
December 1998, the crevice seal is no longer Silastic® RTV732 or General Electric
used in production engines. Additionally, effective RTV130) on the cylinder block sleeve seat
January 1999, the crevice seal groove in the and completely around the cylinder wall as
cylinder sleeve has been eliminated. shown in Figure 145. Do not use excessive
Effective with these production changes, cylinder amounts of RTV. Do not apply more than a
sleeve part Nos. 509GC463 and 509GC466 for 0.160-inch bead.
service use will not have the crevice seal groove,
and it is recommended that use of the crevice
seal be discontinued in all engine repairs or
rebuilds whether or not the liner has a crevice
seal groove.

SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED

r Depth Gauge J 26948
r Dial Bore Gauge J 5347-B
r Cylinder Hone and Glaze Breaker J 5902-01

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145

Figure 145 — Cylinder Block Sleeve Seat

4. Position the cylinder sleeve (1) in the

cylinder bore.
Applying a Silastic® bead is now standard 5. With the palms of the hands placed on the
assembly procedure whenever cylinder sleeves upper end of the cylinder sleeve 180
are installed. degrees apart, push downward with a quick,
even pressure. Then, using a large plastic-
To prevent partial curing and questionable sealing faced hammer, tap the sleeve close to the
and bonding, apply Silastic® just before installing inside diameter to fully seat the sleeve. Tap
the sleeves. alternately from one side to the other,
gradually working around the entire
circumference of the sleeve.

The cylinder block counterbore ledge and the

cylinder sleeve must be kept clean and free of
any oil residue to ensure that the Silastic® bead
seals and bonds properly.

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146

Figure 146 — Sleeve Installation

1. Sleeve 3. Counterbore Ledge

2. Shims (as Required) 4. Cylinder Block

Clean any RTV from around the bottom of the

cylinder sleeve and the block which may have
been pressed out from the sealing surfaces of the
block and sleeve during installation.

6. After the cylinder sleeve is fully seated, use

depth gauge J 26948, or equivalent, to
check the flange height-above-deck
dimensions. The specified dimension is
0.023–0.029 inch (0.584–0.737 mm). The
measurement should be taken in the
channel between the sleeve top lip (fire
dam) and the coining bead. Refer to
Figure 147.

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147

Figure 147 — Cylinder Sleeve/Fire Ring Configuration

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HONING THE CYLINDER SLEEVE BORE

The height of the cylinder sleeves above the

cylinder block deck (under the same cylinder
All MACK engines currently produced have fine
head) can vary as long as all are within the
precision-finished cylinder sleeves. Because of
0.023–0.029-inch (0.584–0.737-mm)
the precision finish, honing is NOT
specification.
recommended. Particles from the honing process
which become wedged in the pattern are
7. Using dial bore gauge J 5347-B, or impossible to completely remove and can cause
equivalent, check the cylinder sleeve for out- further damage.
of-round and taper limit (Figure 148). Take
readings in two directions, 90 degrees apart,
at each of three levels.
Cylinder sleeve ID maximum: 4.877 inches
(123.876 mm).
Cylinder sleeve ID minimum: 4.875 inches
(123.825 mm). The cylinder sleeve ID may
be a minimum 4.872 inches (123.749 mm)
due to close-in from press fit.
148

Figure 148 — Checking Cylinder Sleeve for

Out-of-Round or Taper

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Piston Cooling Spray Nozzle 149

Installation
[219 RV]

SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED

r Two-Piece Piston Cooling Nozzle Aimer
J 39045

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Refer to Figure 149.
1. Using a liberal amount of lubricant, install
the elastomer sleeve (7) on the locator tube
(6).
2. Install a retaining screw (4) in the spray
nozzle bracket (3).
3. Position the spray nozzle locator tube (6) in
the cylinder block oil passage (2) and using
torque wrench J 24406, or equivalent,
tighten the retaining screw to the specified
torque, 15 lb-ft (20 N•m).

Figure 149 — Spray Nozzle Installation

1. Threaded Hole 5. Cylinder Block

2. Oil Passage 6. Locator Tube
3. Spray Nozzle Bracket 7. Elastomer Sleeve
4. Retaining Screw

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PISTON COOLING NOZZLE SPRAY
POSITIONING
Refer to Figure 150. For ease of installation and to reduce the amount
of crankshaft rotation needed to facilitate access
The piston cooling oil spray target location on the to the spray nozzles, install the spray nozzles in
underside of the piston is important. It ensures the following set order: cylinders 1 and 6, 5 and 2,
adequate dissipation of heat from the piston. 3 and 4.
Correct positioning of the nozzles also ensures
that the crankshaft counterweights do not strike 150

the nozzles.

Figure 150 — Spray Nozzle Patterns

1. Old Pattern (E7 Engine with Aluminum Pistons, 2. New Pattern (E-Tech™ and E7 Engines with Two-Piece
Prior to 1991) Pistons, 1991 and Later)

Using piston cooling nozzle spray position set 2. Place the applicable plastic target (1) on the
J 39045 (1991 and later), check the direction of cylinder block (2) over the cylinder to be
the spray from the nozzles. Refer to Figure 151. tested.
1. Position rod (6) in the end of the spray 3. Install a cylinder head bolt through the target
nozzle (7). alignment hole (3) and into the cylinder block
capscrew hole (4) to align the target.

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4. The rod (6) should now be aligned in the Cylinder Block Dowel Pin
target area (5). If the rod is at the edge of the
target area, center the rod in the target area Replacement
as follows:
[211 HA]
a. Loosen the nozzle setscrew. A slight
adjustment can then be made to center
the rod within the target area. GENERAL INFORMATION
b. Following adjustment, tighten the The E-Tech™ engine uses precision-made
setscrew to the specified torque, round-type and blade-type locating dowel pins for
15 lb-ft (20 N•m). alignment of the front cover and flywheel housing.
A blade-type pin is used for alignment of the
flywheel.

Always replace a badly deformed spray nozzle. SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED

Do not attempt to realign it. Precise targeting is
r Flywheel Housing/Timing (Front) Cover
necessary to adequately cool the piston crown.
Locating Pin Driver J 37712
151

REMOVAL
If it is necessary to remove the front cover or
flywheel housing locating dowel pins, do so as
follows:
1. Securely clamp the pin with a pair of locking
pliers.
2. While exerting an outward force, rotate the
pin back and forth until the pin works free
from the hole.

INSTALLATION
Two dowel pins are used to locate the flywheel
housing to the cylinder block. One dowel is round,
the other is a blade type. One end of the blade-
type pin is also round and is the end installed in
cylinder block.

The dowels used for the front cover installation

are similar except for the size. The smaller
dowels are used for the front cover. The larger
dowels are used for the flywheel housing.

Figure 151 — Spray Nozzle Targeting

1. Plastic Target 5. Target Area

2. Cylinder Block 6. Rod
3. Alignment Hole 7. Spray Nozzle
4. Cylinder Block Hole

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
ROUND DOWEL PIN INSTALLATION BLADE-TYPE DOWEL PIN INSTALLATION
1. Position the round end of the blade-type
Refer to Figure 152.
dowel pin into the dowel pin hole in the
1. Insert the round dowel pin (2) into the cylinder block. The blade end must be
flywheel housing/front cover locating pin aligned vertically (up and down) with the
driver J 37712 (1). The pin must be block.
positioned in the driver with the tapered end
2. Using a hammer, drive the dowel pin into the
of the dowel facing outward.
block until the shoulder of the pin is flush
2. Position the exposed end of the dowel into with the cylinder block surface.
the left dowel pin hole (4) in the cylinder
block (3).
3. Using a hammer, drive the pin into the block
until the driver contacts the cylinder block.
When the driver has made contact with the
block, the dowel pin will be at the correct
dimension above the block surface.
152

Figure 152 — Round Dowel Pin Installation

1. Locating Pin Driver 3. Cylinder Block

2. Round Dowel Pin 4. Dowel Pin Hole

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CRANKSHAFT AND FLYWHEEL 5. Measure the crankshaft journals with a
micrometer. Measure each journal in two
BENCH PROCEDURES locations, 90 degrees apart, and record the
measurements.
General Information
6. Check the measurements against
Initially, flywheels used with E-Tech™ engines specifications listed under Fits and Limits in
have six timing grooves milled into the face the SPECIFICATIONS section.
surface for standardization with the E7 PLN 7. If the crankshaft journals are worn, out of
engines. However, the grooves are not required round, or tapered, replace the crankshaft.
for E-Tech™ engines and are eliminated on New or exchange crankshafts are available
current-production flywheels. from MACK Parts Distribution Centers.

Crankshaft Inspection
[212 HP] Crankshaft regrinding by anyone other than Mack
Trucks, Inc. is NOT recommended due to the tight
control required on maintaining geometrical
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS tolerances, and the hardened characteristics of
crankshaft journals and journal fillets.

All bearing surfaces must be free of grit and If crankshaft main journals or connecting rod
burrs. Small particles of dust and dirt left between journals are not a standard size, be sure to use
the crankshaft and bearings will cause rapid wear properly sized bearing inserts when reassembling
and scoring of the crankshaft journal and inserts. the engine. Bearing insert sizing is identified with
Any foreign material left between the crankshaft a “P” following the part number, and is stamped
bearing inserts and caps will cause distortion of on the back side of the bearing insert. For
the insert and a reduction in operating clearance example, if a journal is 0.010 inch (0.254 mm)
at that point. The resulting frictional heat at the undersize, a 0.010-inch undersize bearing is
point of distortion will cause the bearing material required and will be stamped “P10.”
to melt away from steel backing of the bearing.
Such melted material will create further hot spots
until complete bearing failure occurs. Anything
that interferes with the operating clearance of any Some crankshafts may have journals which are
bearing and proper heat dissipation affects 0.002 inch (0.0508 mm) undersize. These
bearing life. Cleanliness cannot be overstressed. crankshafts are marked by a streak of white paint
adjacent to the journal. Always check the journals
to ensure using bearing inserts of the proper size.
INSPECTION
1. Inspect the crankshaft journals for out of
round, taper and poor surface finish.
2. Visually check the crankshaft for any
apparent cracks, worn journals and damage
to threads, dowel pin or main drive gear.
3. Magnaflux the crankshaft to check further for
cracks. This process requires special
equipment and application methods.
4. Using standard machinists’ inspection
practice, check the crankshaft to ensure it is
straight.

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Crankshaft Dowel Pin Replacement Refer to Figure 153.
153

[212 HA]
All E-Tech™ engine crankshafts are equipped
with a blade-type flywheel-to-crankshaft dowel
pin installed in the rear flange directly opposite
the manufacturing locator hole. Hole sizes are as
follows:
Manufacturing locator hole — approximately
1/2 inch (12.7 mm) in diameter and 3/8 inch
(9.52 mm) deep; used in the manufacturing
process
Flywheel dowel pin hole — approximately
9/16 inch (14.29 mm) in diameter by 7/8 inch
(22.23 mm) deep

All new service replacement crankshafts, short

blocks or basic engines will have a dowel pin in
the crankshaft rear flange. In nearly all cases, the
flywheel will already have a hole in it to accept the
dowel pin. If an earlier version flywheel or torque
converter drive flange without a dowel pin hole is
used for replacement, it must be reworked.

If it is necessary to rework the flywheel or torque

converter drive flange, two holes must be added
using a 19/32-inch drill bit. One hole is for the
dowel pin and another directly opposite the first
Figure 153 — Dowel Pin Hole Dimensions (Flywheel or
hole is to maintain balance of the flywheel/torque Torque Converter Drive Flange)
converter drive flange.

DOWEL PIN REMOVAL

To remove the crankshaft dowel pin:
1. Securely grip the dowel pin with locking
pliers.
2. Rotate the dowel pin back and forth while
exerting outward pressure until the pin is
removed.

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DOWEL PIN INSTALLATION REPLACEMENT
To install a replacement crankshaft dowel pin: Refer to Figure 155.
1. Position the dowel pin in a 0.5562-inch 1. Using a suitable puller, such as J 21834-4A,
(14.1275-mm) diameter unthreaded hole in or equivalent, remove the gear and key.
the rear flange of the crankshaft. The pin
must be installed with the flat surface
aligned parallel to the center of the
crankshaft as shown in Figure 154. The threads in the end of the crankshaft are
2. Use a soft metal hammer and punch to drive M8 x 1.25.
the pin into the hole. The pin must be firmly
seated and protrude 0.77 inch (19.56 mm) 2. Clean the gear mounting surface. It should
from the crankshaft. be free of grooves, scratches and burrs. Use
154
a file, sandpaper or crocus cloth, as
required.

Take care not to damage the key slot while

installing the key.

3. Insert the key (4) into the key slot (3). Lightly
tap the key with a soft metal hammer to seat
it in the slot.
4. Heat the replacement gear (1) to
approximately 250°F (121°C) in a
temperature-controlled oven or on a hot
plate.
Figure 154 — Dowel Pin Alignment

Crankshaft Gear Replacement Wear protective gloves when handling the heated
crankshaft gear to prevent burns or personal
[212 HV] injury.

INSPECTION
After inspecting the crankshaft and determining
that it is within specification, inspect the Take care not to damage the gear teeth while
crankshaft gear for cracks and broken, worn or seating the gear.
chipped teeth. If the gear is defective, it must be
replaced.

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5. Position the gear over the end of the Crankshaft Wear Ring Installation
crankshaft (2) with the timing mark facing
outward, the chamfer (6) toward the rear of [212 JH]
the shaft, and the key slot aligned with key in
the shaft. When the service oil seal is to be replaced and
6. In one rapid motion, push the heated gear the crankshaft flange is worn, the crankshaft can
against the flange (5). With the gear properly be salvaged by installing a crankshaft wear ring.
positioned, immediately and carefully tap the An oil seal with a larger inside diameter is used
gear to help seat it against the flange. with this wear ring.
155

SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED

r Crankshaft Rear Seal Installer J 37716-A
r Wear Ring Installer J 38880
r Universal Driver Handle J 8092

REMOVAL

A limited number of crankshafts were

manufactured with a repair sleeve installed on the
flange. The repair sleeve is usually not noticeable
and is finish ground to standard flange size. If the
repair sleeve is damaged or becomes loose, the
crankshaft must be replaced.
Special care must be taken not to damage the
crankshaft flange during wear ring removal.

Refer to Figure 156.

1. The wear ring can be removed by carefully
applying heat, using a ball-peen hammer to
expand the diameter, or by using a chisel to
split the wear ring. Use extreme care not to
damage the crankshaft flange.
Figure 155 — Drive Gear Installation

1. Gear 4. Key
2. Shaft 5. Flange
3. Key Slot 6. Chamfer Place the chisel face squarely on the wear ring
and carefully strike the chisel with a hammer to
cut part-way through the ring. The wear ring will
loosen enough to be removed without cutting
completely through it. The goal is to carefully
remove the wear ring in this manner and not cut,
nick or damage the crankshaft flange.

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2. Thoroughly clean the flange area of the 157

crankshaft. Check for nicks or scratches and

repair any damaged areas with crocus cloth
as necessary.
156

Figure 157 — Proper Crankshaft Wear Ring Installation

1. Position the wear ring in the spring clips of

the wear ring installer J 38880 with the arrow
pointing away from the installer tool. Refer to
Figure 156 — Crankshaft Wear Ring Removal Figure 158.
158

INSTALLATION
Refer to Figure 157.

On some wear rings it may be difficult to

determine the direction of the arrow on the inside
diameter. In this case, ensure proper installation
by installing the wear ring with the chamfer on the
inside diameter toward the engine. The chamfer
on the outside diameter of the wear ring must
face away from the engine.

Figure 158 — Crankshaft Wear Ring Installation

The crankshaft wear ring is a shrink fit on the

crankshaft flange. Use wear ring installer J 38880
and universal driver handle J 8092 to install the
ring to the proper depth.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
2. Heat the wear ring and wear ring installer WEAR RING WITH DOUBLE-LIP TEFLON®
together in a temperature-controlled oven or SEAL (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION)
on a hotplate, with the wear ring on the
The oversize inside diameter lip seal and wear
bottom and installed in the spring clips of the
ring are shipped as an assembly with the seal
installer. Work as close as possible to the
installed on the wear ring. For this combination,
engine to avoid heat loss after heating the
the seal and the wear ring are installed as an
ring. Heat to 400°F (205°C). Do not install
assembly. Refer to the crankshaft rear oil seal
the driver handle at this time. This allows the
installation procedures under Engine
wear ring to maintain sufficient heat until it is
Reassembly in the REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
fully installed on the flange.
section.

Do not heat the wear ring with a torch. This type

of heat source will not heat the ring evenly.

3. Thoroughly clean and dry the crankshaft oil

seal mounting flange.
4. After the wear ring is sufficiently heated, use
heat-resistant gloves to install the universal
driver handle J 8092 into the threaded hole
in the center of the installation tool.
5. Remove the wear ring and installation tool
from the oven or hot plate and immediately
place in position on the crankshaft flange.
Push the wear ring onto the flange until the
installation tool is fully seated against the
end of the flange. As the wear ring cools, it
will shrink-fit onto the crankshaft flange.
6. Allow the wear ring to cool completely. Then
remove the installation tool.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Flywheel Inspection and
Resurfacing
When resurfacing a flat-style flywheel, it is very
[212 UB] important that the machine shop NOT leave a
step on the friction face outer diameter adjacent
The flywheel is a design with an integral, non- to the clutch locating pilot. There is an undercut
replaceable ring gear. If the ring gear teeth are in relief in the corner between the friction face and
good condition, the flywheel surface should be the clutch locating pilot, and resurfacing must go
checked as follows: up to this relief. If resurfacing is done to a depth
which would eliminate the relief, a new relief must
1. Inspect the flywheel to determine if it
be cut. Refer to Figure 159.
requires resurfacing. The wear areas should
be measured using a straightedge across When attempting to resurface as close to the
the friction face and a thickness gauge. If the clutch locating pilot as possible, keep in mind that
wear measurement is 0.020 inch the pilot must not be altered. The pilot controls
(0.508 mm) or less, the flywheel does NOT the location of the clutch. If the locating pilot is
need to be machined when operated against altered, an imbalance will result.
ceramic clutch facings.
Some machine shop operations may not have the
2. Resurface the flywheel as required. To tooling and locating equipment necessary for
ensure satisfactory service life, the resurfacing a flat-style flywheel.
maximum amount of material that may be
159
removed from the flywheel surface is
0.070 inch (1.78 mm).

Figure 159 — Flywheel Resurfacing

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
AUXILIARY SHAFT AND Camshaft Inspection
CAMSHAFT BENCH [213 CH]
PROCEDURES
Auxiliary Shaft Inspection GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
To optimize camshaft timing for certain engine
[212 CV] models, an offset-type camshaft key
(P/N 54GC29) is used. The offset key is color-
The E-Tech™ auxiliary shaft is identified by three coded (with one end of the key painted white and
painted stripes (early production) or three the other end painted red) and is installed with
machined circumferential cuts (later production) the offset either to the right (cam timing retarded)
in front of the stamped part number. or to the left (cam timing advanced). Correct
camshaft key offset installation is dependent
upon engine horsepower ratings.
INSPECTION
Refer to Figure 160.
1. Thoroughly clean the auxiliary shaft.
Some late-production high-horsepower engines
2. Inspect the auxiliary shaft journals and use the offset key, P/N 54GC31.
splines, and gear teeth and splines for
evidence of cracks, pitting, scoring or severe
wear. If any of these conditions exist, Make sure that the correct camshaft key and
replace the auxiliary shaft. positioning is used for the applicable engine
model. Engine timing will be adversely affected if
3. Make sure the orificed cup plug is in place in
the incorrect key or positioning is used. When
the internal passage at the front of the
utilizing the offset key, it must be installed with the
auxiliary shaft.
160 proper color facing front as follows:
r Straight Key P/N 43AX9 — Used with
EM7-300 (1750 rpm), E7-310/330,
E7-330/350, E7-355/380, E7-350
(1800 rpm), E7-400 (1800 rpm), E7-454
r Red Offset Key P/N 54GC29 — Used with
RED facing front for EM7-275 (1750 rpm)
and E7-300 (1700/1800/1950 rpm) effective
January 1998 with engine serial number
series 8A. Also used with RED facing front
for EM7-300 (1750 rpm) and E7-310/330
effective December 8, 1999 with engine
serial number 9Y0870 and implementation
of Step 7 software.
r White Offset Key P/N 54GC29 — Used
Figure 160 — Auxiliary Shaft with WHITE facing front for E7-427 (effective
June 1997, with engine serial number
7M1305) and E7-460 (effective June 1997,
with engine serial number 7M3166).

Prior to the offset key tie-ins to the engine serial

numbers listed above, all engine models used the
straight key.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
CAMSHAFT GEAR REMOVAL 4. Remove the thrust washer.
161
An extremely tight interference fit holds the cam
gear on the camshaft. Typically, 10 tons of force
is required to remove the gear. When cam gear
removal or installation is required, use the
following procedures.

A considerable amount of force may be

necessary to remove damaged or spun gears.
DO NOT apply more than 25 tons (22.7 metric
tons) of force to gears. Doing so may shatter
the gears and result in severe personal injury.

Refer to Figure 161.

1. Position two adequate steel plates on the
press to support the camshaft gear. The
plates should have a 4-inch (101.6-mm) hole
cut out in the center when placed side-by-
side, or similar size v-grooves, to allow
clearance for the shaft journals and greater
support for the gear.
2. Set camshaft, supported by the gear, into
the press.
3. Using a suitable arbor, press the camshaft
out of the camshaft gear.
Figure 161 — Camshaft Gear Removal

INSPECTION
Some engines use a straight key while others use
an offset key positioned to the right or left Refer to Figure 162.
depending on the engine model. If an offset key is 1. Thoroughly clean the camshaft (3).
used, be sure to note the positioning of the key so
that it can be reinstalled in the same position.

Use magnaflux (PT7190) inspection procedure to

detect cracks.
Make sure there is enough clearance between
the end of the camshaft and the floor while 2. Inspect the camshaft lobes and journals for
removing the gear. Do not let the camshaft fall or evidence of cracks, pitting, scoring or severe
strike the floor when pressed from the gear. The wear. If any of these conditions exist,
camshaft can be bent easily, and may go replace the camshaft.
unnoticed. Installing a bent camshaft in the 3. Inspect the camshaft gear (1) and camshaft
engine could result in cam bushing failure. captured thrust washer (2) for cracks, pitting,
scoring or adverse wear.
4. Visually inspect the key (4) for signs of
distortion or breakage.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
CAMSHAFT GEAR INSTALLATION HEAT METHOD — CAMSHAFT GEAR
INSTALLATION
The camshaft gear is shrink-fit onto the camshaft.
To install the gear, it must be heated in an oven to
Refer to Figure 162.
425°F (204°C). Do not attempt to heat the gear
with a welding torch as this method will not 1. Using a suitable contact-type cleaner that
provide even heating and could cause weakening dries rapidly and leaves no residue,
of the metal. thoroughly clean the camshaft and gear.

An oven is the preferred method for heating the

camshaft gear. However, an industrial grade hot
plate can be used as an alternative to the oven. The camshaft and gear must be grease- and oil-
When using a hot plate, temperature sticks or a free to ensure a good shrink-fit.
thermocouple must be used to determine gear
temperature. The hot plate, temperature sticks
2. Install the key (4) into the camshaft keyway.
and thermocouple are available through any
It may be necessary to tap the key with a
industrial supply company.
soft metal hammer to ensure proper seating
of the key.

The camshaft gear is a “long-life” part that should

be reused providing it is not damaged.
Some engines use a straight key while others use
When installing the camshaft gear, use only the an offset key positioned to the right or left
heat method procedure below for both new or depending on the engine model. If an offset key is
used parts. Do not use a press to install the gear. used, be sure the key is properly positioned for
the engine model. Refer to the appropriate MACK
Engine Tune-up Specifications for the correct key
offset.

3. Install a new camshaft captured thrust

washer (2) on the camshaft.

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162

Figure 162 — Camshaft Assembly Components

1. Camshaft Gear 3. Camshaft

2. Camshaft Captured Thrust Washer 4. Key

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
4. Set the camshaft close to the oven in which
the camshaft gear will be heated. It should
be set vertically on the floor with the front of
the shaft up. Secure the shaft so it cannot Wear protective gloves when handling the
wobble or fall over as the gear is being heated gear.
installed.
7. Using a quick, steady motion, push
5. Heat the camshaft gear to 425°F (204°C) in
downward on the gear until the gear is fully
an oven (preferred — an old kitchen oven is
seated against the cam shoulder surface.
sufficient) or on an industrial grade hot plate
used in combination with temperature-
sensing equipment described earlier.
Adequate heating will require one to two
hours. Do not heat the gear for more than The heat-expanded gear bore will begin to
two hours nor exceed 425°F (204°C) as heat transfer heat to the camshaft as soon as contact
treatment may be affected. between the gear and shaft is made. Therefore, it
is absolutely necessary that the gear be installed
in one rapid motion to the fully seated position.
If the gear is allowed to stop on the camshaft
DO NOT attempt to heat the gear with a torch. before it is fully seated, it will become immovable.
This method will only provide localized heating, If this occurs, DO NOT press gear onto the
will not permit proper expansion and may affect camshaft. Instead, remove gear with a press and
heat treatment of the gear. thoroughly inspect the gear bore, camshaft
journal and key. If there is no scoring, galling or
6. Remove the gear from the oven and position tearing, repeat the installation procedure using
it on the camshaft with the keyway aligned the removed components. If damage is minimal,
with the key and the timing marks facing up the components can and must be repaired and
(Figure 163). then reinstalled. If the damage is significant, the
163 components must be replaced.

8. Allow the gear to cool.

9. When the gear is fully seated, there should
be 0.003–0.012 inch (0.076–0.31 mm)
clearance between the rear face of the gear
and the thrust washer when measured with
a feeler gauge.

Figure 163 — Camshaft Gear Installation, Heat Method

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
CONNECTING ROD AND Each connecting rod assembly has two alignment
sleeves (3), one sleeve in each capscrew hole of
PISTON BENCH PROCEDURES the rod cap (1) to locate and align the cap and rod
thrust faces. These sleeves provide the best
Connecting Rod Inspection and alignment when sleeve gaps are positioned at a
Reconditioning location approximately 90 degrees to the tongue
or groove (2). The sleeve gaps must not be in line
[212 LP] with the tongue or groove.
165

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
The connecting rod and cap design incorporates
alignment sleeves. The caps can be identified by
the flat, machined bottom shown in Figure 164.
The connecting rod part number is forged into the
I-beam of the rod.
164

Figure 165 — Connecting Rod with Alignment Sleeves

1. Rod Cap 3. Alignment Sleeve

2. Bearing Insert

It is essential to closely control the weight of

reciprocating parts. Connecting rods fall into two
weight classes, M1 or M2. Initially, the classes
were identified by the respective “M” number
(M1 or M2) stamped onto the connecting rod
bearing cap. Now, however, only the M1 rod
carries the weight class identification stamped on
the rod cap. The M2 connecting rod is no longer
stamped with the weight class identifier.
When installing a single rod, or less than a full
set, examine the removed rod for part number
and M number. Installing parts with the same
weight class is preferred.
Figure 164 — Connecting Rod Identification
Connecting rods can be weighed to ensure using
1. Connecting Rod 2. Rod Cap Machined the proper weight class. Connecting rod weights
Surface for each engine, within each weight class, should
not vary by more than 0.46 ounce (13.04 grams).
Refer to Figure 165. The maximum weight difference between the
heaviest possible M2 rod and the lightest
possible M1 rod is 0.83 ounce (23.53 grams).

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED 166

r Piston Pin Bushing Remover/Installer

J 37717
r Piston Pin Burnishing Broach J 37718
r Connecting Rod Fixture 945-6041

INSPECTION
r Inspect the connecting rods for nicks,
cracks, signs of overheating, or bends or
twisting that can cause rod failure.
r Inspect bolt holes for elongation or pulled
threads.
r Check mating surfaces between the rod and
cap for correct fit.
r Inspect the crankshaft journal bearing
surface and wrist pin bushing.

If any of the above parts are suspected of being

faulty, replace the connecting rod.

If it is determined that the condition of any part or

component is questionable or is at the limit of
tolerance, replace it. If the questionable part or Figure 166 — Wrist Pin Bushing Removal
component is reused, it may fail or become out of
tolerance after a short time in operation. It is cost- Wrist Pin Bushing Installation
efficient to replace components when rebuilding.
Use genuine MACK replacement parts.
The wrist pin bushing has a lubrication hole
through it. This hole MUST be aligned with the
WRIST PIN BUSHING REPLACEMENT rifle-drilled hole in the rod to allow oil flow to the
If the wrist pin bushing is found to be out of wrist pin. If the holes are not aligned, wrist pin,
tolerance, it should be replaced. piston, and connecting rod failure will result.

Refer to Figure 166. 1. Position the rod and wrist pin bushing
remover/installer J 37717 in a press, and
To replace the bushing: press the new bushing into the rod.
1. Position the rod in a press with the piston pin 2. Align the hole in the bushing with the rifle-
bushing remover/installer J 37717 inserted drilled hole in the rod.
into the wrist pin bushing. Refer to Figure 167.
2. Press the bushing out of the rod. 3. Position the rod assembly in a press with
wrist pin bushing burnishing broach J 37718.

Use care not to twist or bend the connecting rod

while pressing the bushing.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
167
CONNECTING ROD ALIGNMENT CHECK
1. Position the connecting rod in a connecting
rod fixture, Sweeney 945-6041, or
equivalent. Use the appropriate mandrel and
plunger extension for the engine.
168

Figure 167 — Burnishing Wrist Pin Bushing

4. Using a suitable lubricant, press the broach

through the bushing to expand the bushing.
Refer to Figure 168.

Figure 168 — Connecting Rod Fixture

Make certain that the bushing is fully expanded 2. Check the rod for twist or bend exceeding
for a tight fit in the connecting rod bore or it will the following specifications. Specified
loosen, rotate and fail. distances are center-to-center.
Use care not to twist or bend the connecting rod r Maximum twist of the connecting rod
while pressing the broach through the bushing. within 12 inches (30.5 cm) is 0.010 inch
(0.254 mm).
5. Clean all shavings from the rifle-drilled hole r Maximum bend of the connecting rod
in the rod. within 12 inches (30.5 cm) is 0.004 inch
6. Check the alignment of the connecting rod (0.102 mm).
for twist or bend.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Piston Inspection and Cleaning DISASSEMBLY
Refer to Figure 169.
[212 NP]
1. Using piston ring expander PT6587, remove
the piston rings.
GENERAL INFORMATION 169

The E-Tech™ engine uses a two-piece piston

design with the crown made from forged steel
and the skirt from cast aluminum. The forged
steel crown incorporates two compression ring
grooves and one oil ring groove. An oil
accumulator relief is machined into the lower half
of the third ring land face, 360 degrees around
the piston circumference.

A plasma-faced, keystone-type compression ring

is used in the top groove of the crown and a
tapered chrome, rectangular-type compression
ring is used in the second groove. The oil control
ring is located in the third groove, nearest the
wrist pin bore.

Early-production piston crowns were fitted with

steel-backed bronze bushings in the wrist pin
bores. A redesign of the piston crown for current
production eliminates the bushings from the
bores. This change was phased into production
beginning July 1999.

The wrist pin bore pedestal of the crown and the

piston skirt are stamped FRONT, and must be
installed facing the front of engine.

Figure 169 — Piston Ring Removal

A radius is cut in the lower edge of the piston skirt 2. Thoroughly clean the piston ring grooves,
to provide clearance for the piston cooling nozzle. combustion bowl area and snap ring
The piston must be installed with the word grooves. All carbon must be removed.
FRONT facing the front of engine. Carbon left in the piston ring grooves will
reduce ring clearance and prevent
replacement rings from seating properly.
SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED
r Piston Ring Expander PT6587
r Keystone Ring Groove Gauge J 29510 Be sure that the cleaning solvent is approved for
steel and aluminum. Incompatible solvents may
cause damage to the pistons or skirts.

3. Clean the pistons with the approved solution

and a brass brush. Take care to avoid
damaging the pistons while cleaning.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
INSPECTION KEYSTONE RING GROOVE CHECK
Inspect the piston ring grooves, lands, piston skirt Refer to Figure 170.
and combustion bowl for wear, scuffing, cracks or
blow-by. Pistons are NOT repairable. Discard the Keystone piston-ring groove gauge J 29510
piston if it is damaged. consists of two 0.120-inch (3.048 mm) diameter
pins (1) connected at the ends by two springs (2).
170

Do not stamp or engrave on TOP of the piston.

Doing so will reduce piston life.

To ensure that pistons are reinstalled in the same

cylinders, the pistons must be tagged with the
corresponding cylinder number when removed
during disassembly.

Piston Ring Replacement

[212 NV]

Before installing piston rings, check the keystone

ring groove wear and ring end gap.

1. Place a piston ring in the cylinder sleeve.

Push it down into the sleeve with an inverted
piston to ensure that it is positioned squarely
in the sleeve.
2. Using thickness gauges, check the ring end
gap. Refer to Fits and Limits in the
SPECIFICATIONS section for end gap
tolerance. All rings to be used should be Figure 170 — Ring Groove Gauge
checked in this manner.
1. Pins 2. Springs

1. Place the pins of the keystone piston ring

Do not file or grind chrome-plated piston rings. groove gauge J 29510 opposite each other
This may cause the chrome to flake, resulting in in the groove to be measured. The pins will
ring failure. be held in position by the springs.
Refer to Figure 171.

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2. Using a four- to five-inch micrometer, 5. Check the oil control ring as follows:
measure the distance between the outer
a. Using a thickness gauge, check for
edges of the two parallel pins. Check each
excessive wear of the oil control ring
compression ring groove in two locations:
groove side clearance (1). Position a
parallel and perpendicular to the wrist pin
new oil control ring in the groove and
bore. Record both measurements.
insert a thickness gauge between the
3. Compare readings with the tolerances listed ring and upper land of the groove.
under Fits and Limits in the
b. Record the measurement and compare
SPECIFICATIONS section.
171 the reading with the tolerance listed
under Fits and Limits in the
SPECIFICATIONS section.

For a new ring and piston, the oil ring side

clearance is 0.0016–0.0030 inch
(0.0406–0.0762 mm). For an old ring and piston,
the clearance should NOT exceed 0.0045 inch
(0.1143 mm).

6. Perform step 5 on each piston.

172

Figure 171 — Ring Groove Wear Measurement

4. Perform steps 1, 2 and 3 on each piston.

Refer to Figure 172. Figure 172 — Side Clearance Measurement

1. Ring Groove Side Clearance

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
RING INSTALLATION 2. Stagger the piston rings so that no ring gap
is directly over the wrist pin bore, and no ring
end gaps are aligned over each other
(Figure 174).
174
Identification markings on the rings should face
the piston top. The keystone ring goes in the top
ring groove.

Follow the directions on each piston ring packet.

Refer to Figure 173.

1. To prevent distortion, use the proper size
piston ring expander (PT6587) to place rings
in the piston grooves.
173

Figure 174 — Ring Gap Locations

Figure 173 — Piston Ring Expander PT6587

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Assembling Connecting Rod to 175

Piston
[212 LP & NP]
Refer to Figure 175.
1. Install a retaining snap ring in one of the
wrist pin retaining grooves.
2. Position the connecting rod in the piston
assembly. Make sure that the side of the rod
marked FRONT is properly aligned with the
FRONT markings on the piston crown and
skirt.

The current piston skirt, part No. 240GC590BM,

is symmetrical in design, having piston cooling
nozzle clearance cutouts on both the right and
left sides. Although the word “FRONT” still
appears at the bottom, the symmetrical design
allows the skirt to be assembled to the piston
crown in either direction.

Figure 175 — Piston Markings

Be sure that the piston and rod assemblies are
clearly marked with the cylinder location. They 3. Using a generous amount of clean engine
must be returned to same cylinder from which oil, push the piston wrist pin into the wrist pin
they were removed. bore, aligning the two piston sections and
the connecting rod.

Early-production piston crowns were fitted with

steel-backed bronze bushings in the wrist pin
bores. A redesign of the piston crown for current
production eliminates the bushings from the
bores. This change was phased into production
beginning July 1999.

4. Secure the pin in position by inserting a

snap ring in the remaining piston snap ring
groove.
5. Place the assembled piston in a clean
location until it is needed for installation into
the engine cylinder sleeve.
6. Perform steps 1 through 5 on the remaining
pistons.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
CYLINDER HEAD OVERHAUL Inlet and Exhaust Valve Removal
[213 EV] [213 NB]

Special Tools Required GENERAL INFORMATION

r Valve Spring Compressor J 43887 (for Current-production engines use a tip-end valve
valves with tip-end rotators) rotator (P/N 722GC314) as shown in Figure 176.
The tip-end rotator is installed at the top of the
r Valve Spring Compressor J 29294-B (for
valve spring, and replaces the bottom rotator
valves with bottom rotators)
which was used on early-production engines.
r Fire Ring Groove Cutter J 29600-C With the tip-end valve rotators, there is a greater
amount of valve key protrusion above the rotator
r E7 Cutter Head J 37719
when compared with the key protrusion above
r Depth Gauge J 26948 the valve spring retainer washers on early-
production engines. The top of the valve keys are
r Valve Guide Remover J 37482
practically flush with the top of the valve retainer
r Valve Guide Installer J 37809 washers. The tip-end rotator, however, has an
undercut on top, so the top of the key protrudes
r Valve Guide Reamer J 37481
approximately 3/32-inch as shown in Figure 177.
r Valve Seat Extractor Kit PT6391
r Collet PT6390-4
r Valve Seat Insert Counterbore HT77136 Do not clean either type (bottom or tip-end) of
r Valve Insert Installer Set J 38586 rotators in a hot tank or use any type of cleaning
method which could introduce contaminants to
r Driver Handle J 8092 the rotator internal parts or damage the tip-end
r Prussian Blue rotator insert.
r Model MST 50 Universal Spring Tester
J 22738-02
r Injection Nozzle Sleeve Extractor J 29880
r Basic Heavy-Duty Dowelout Kit PT6575
r Dowelout, Extractor (7/16 inch) PT6570-11
r Torque Wrench J 24407
r Slide Hammer J 2619-01
r Valve Yoke Guide Pin Installer J 29296
r Injection Nozzle Sleeve Installer J 29297
r Cylinder Head Core Plug Installer
(13/16-inch cup plugs) J 34684
r Cylinder Head Core Plug Installer
(1-1/16 inch cup plugs) J 34687
r Valve Seal Installer J 42453
r Valve Stem Seal Remover J 39460

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176

Figure 176 — Valve Spring, Rotator and Valve Seat Insert Combinations

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177

Figure 177 — Valve Key Protrusion

REMOVAL PROCEDURE 178

Refer to Figure 178.

1. Attach the valve spring compressor to the
cylinder head. Use spring compressor
J 43887 for valves with tip-end rotators or
J 29294-B for valves with bottom rotators.
2. Rest tool compression forks (4) on top of the
upper washer (3) and center the forks above
the valve.
3. Depress the tool handle until the valve
spring is compressed. Remove the valve
spring washer keys (2) using a magnet (1).
Valve Stem Seals — The E-Tech™ engine
valve stem seals are easily identified by the
steel retainer band around the top of the
seal lip. The guides have three sharp ridges
machined into the upper outside diameter
surface (refer to Figure 179) for excellent
seal-to-guide retention. The following part
numbers apply:
r Valve stem seal — P/N 446GC328
r Valve guide — P/N 714GB3103

Figure 178 — Valve Spring Keeper Removal

Valve spring compressor, J 43887 or J 29294-B,
must be repositioned for each series of valves 1. Magnet 3. Upper Washer
(two inlet and two exhaust per cylinder). Drilled 2. Valve Spring Washer 4. Tool Compression Forks
and tapped holes are provided for each cylinder. Keys

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179

Figure 179 — Valve Stem Seal

4. With the valve spring keepers removed,

remove the upper washer or tip-end rotator,
valve spring, oil seal, lower washer
(Roto-Coil) if so equipped, and valve. Refer After removing the valve springs, removal of the
to Figure 176. existing valve stem seals can be accomplished
easily and quickly by using the J 39460 Valve
Stem Seal Removal tool. Failure to use this tool
could make seal removal more difficult, and could
result in damage to the outside diameter of the
valve guides.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Cylinder Head Inspection Fire Ring Groove Cutting
GENERAL INFORMATION
Fire ring grooves are located in the machined flat
Pressure Test — It is recommended that cylinder surface (deck) of the cylinder head that mates
heads be pressurized and checked for internal with the engine block. This design provides a
cracks and leaks. Refer to Cylinder Head and locking groove for the fire ring to seat, as well as
Cylinder Block Leak Test procedures in the a positive-combustion pressure seal.
TROUBLESHOOTING section.
After resurfacing the cylinder head deck, it is
necessary to re-establish the fire ring groove
Check the cylinder head deck surface for depth using the fire ring groove cutter J 29600-C.
warping, pitting or other imperfections. Deck Refer to Figure 180.
surface flatness must not vary more than 180

0.0015 inch (0.0381 mm) over 18 inches

(45.7 cm) of surface area. Resurface or replace
as necessary.

When resurfacing, remove a minimum amount of

material from the deck to obtain a flat, uniform
surface. Standard head height is
6.397–6.391 inches (162.483–162.310 mm). A
maximum of 0.010 inch (0.254 mm) of material
may be removed, making the minimum height of
a resurfaced head 6.381 inches (162.077 mm).

When the deck is resurfaced, fire ring groove and

valve seat insert dimensions must be re-
established following the procedure in Fire Ring
Groove Cutting.

Figure 180 — Fire Ring Groove Cutter J 29600-C

1. Alignment Fixture 5. Cutter Head (J 37719)

2. Hold-Down Capscrews 6. Wing Nuts
3. Spacers 7. Thickness Gauges
4. Washers 8. Cutter Base

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GROOVE CUTTING PROCEDURE 182

1. Place the cutter base on the cylinder head.

Insert the hold-down capscrews into the
appropriate mounting holes (per application)
until the hold-down capscrews bottom out in
the mounting holes. Refer to Figure 181.
181

Figure 181 — Cutter Base Alignment

1. Cutter Base 2. Cylinder Head

2. Position the cylinder head so the threaded

section of the hold-down capscrews can be Figure 182 — Fastening Cutter Base
reached as shown in Figure 182. Install the
spacer, washer and wing nut. Lightly tighten 1. Wing Nut 3. Spacer
the wing nut. 2. Washer

3. Place the alignment fixture over the cutter

base as shown in Figure 183 to ensure
The cutter base must be free to move. proper positioning. With the fixture in place,
tighten wing nuts on the hold-down
capscrews. Remove the alignment fixture.

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183
5. Adjust the cutter head J 37719 until it
bottoms out on the deck surface of the
existing fire ring groove. Tighten the cutter
head in this position and remove the two
thickness gauges.
184

Figure 183 — Alignment Fixture Placement

1. Alignment Fixture 2. Cutter Base

Figure 184 — Setting Cutter Depth

The desired finished fire ring groove depth is
0.008 inch (0.203 mm). 1. Cutter Head (J 37719) 3. Fire Ring Groove
2. Thickness Gauges 4. Cutter Base

4. Install the cutter head J 37719 (1) on the

cutter base (4) as shown in Figure 184. 6. Install a socket (1) and T-handle (2) on the
cutter head (3) as shown in Figure 185.
a. If a fire ring groove (3) is visible, check Using the T-handle, rotate the cutter head in
the existing fire ring groove depth a clockwise direction only, applying an even
dimension with depth gauge J 26948. downward pressure to cut the fire ring
The difference between 0.008 inch and groove.
the actual remaining depth of fire ring
groove is the amount to cut. Insert two
appropriate thickness gauges (2)
between the cutter head (1) and base
(4).
b. If a fire ring groove (3) is not visible,
insert two 0.008-inch thickness gauges
(2) between the cutter head (1) and
base (4).

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185
Valve Guide Replacement
[213 EP]

INLET AND EXHAUST VALVE GUIDE

DIMENSIONS
Refer to Figure 186.
r Valve guide ID (3) — 3/8 inch (9.53 mm)
r Top end of guide to valve spring seat (4) —
0.959 ± 0.040 inch (24.36 ± 1.02 mm)
r Valve guide extension, fire deck to top of
guide (5) — 5.24 ± 0.03 inch
(133.10 ± 0.76 mm)
r Valve guide bore in head (6) —
0.687–0.686 inch (17.450–17.424 mm)
r Valve guide OD (7) — 0.6886–0.6881 inch
(17.4904–17.4777 mm)

Figure 185 — Cutting Ring Groove

1. Socket 3. Cutter Head (J 37719)

2. T-Handle

7. After the groove is cut, remove the cutter

head and base from the cylinder head.
8. Use a honing stone to remove any burrs
around the fire ring groove.
9. Check the fire ring groove depth with depth
gauge J 26948 to verify that the groove
depth meets specification. If the groove
depth does not meet specification, recut as
necessary.
10. Repeat the above procedure to cut each fire
ring groove.

To ensure proper groove depth, always adjust the

cutting tool height when cutting the next groove.

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186 187

Figure 186 — Valve Guide Dimensions Figure 187 — Measuring Valve Guide Bore

1. Exhaust Valve Guide 5. Valve Guide Extension, 1. Bore Gauge 2. Valve Guide Bore
2. Inlet Valve Guide Fire Deck to Top of
3. Valve Guide ID Guide
4. Top End of Guide to 6. Valve Guide Bore in 2. Use a depth gauge to check valve guide
Valve Spring Seat Head extension. Refer to Figure 188.
7. Valve Guide OD 188

INSPECTION

Worn valve guides may result in poor valve-to-

seat contact, valve damage or oil consumption.

1. Inspect the valve guides for wear, damage,

cracks and looseness. Use a small bore
gauge (1) to obtain an accurate valve guide
bore (2) measurement. Refer to Figure 187.

Figure 188 — Checking Valve Guide Extension

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
2. Press out the old valve guides from the
cylinder head.
When reconditioning the cylinder head, it is 3. Check the valve guide bore in the cylinder
recommended that all valve guides be replaced. head for wear, cracks or other damage.
Clean the surfaces thoroughly and check the
ID measurement.
VALVE GUIDE REMOVAL
VALVE GUIDE INSTALLATION
1. Insert a new valve guide into the valve guide
installer J 37809.
Clean the exhaust valve guide OD (shoulder)
before removal. With the guide removed, use a 2. Oil the OD of the guide before installation.
rotary brush to clean the exhaust valve guide 3. Using tool J 37809, press the guide into the
bore and prevent scoring. top of the cylinder head.
4. Using the depth gauge, check the extension
of the guide from the valve spring seat to the
Refer to Figure 189.
top end of the guide. Refer back to
1. Insert valve guide remover J 37482 (1) into Figure 188.
the valve guide from the deck side of the 5. Using valve guide reamer J 37481 (1), ream
cylinder head (2). the valve guide (2) to dimension as shown in
189
Figure 190.
190

Figure 189 — Valve Guide Remover J 37482

Figure 190 — Reaming Valve Guide
1. Valve Guide Remover 2. Cylinder Head
J 37482
1. Valve Guide Reamer 2. Valve Guide
J 37481

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6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 to install the 191

remaining valve guides.

7. Thoroughly clean all metal debris from the
valve guides and the surrounding area.
8. Install the valves in the cylinder head and
check for binding, looseness and other
conditions that may result in premature
valve or valve guide failure.

Valve Seat Insert Replacement

[213 FB]

INLET AND EXHAUST VALVE SEAT INSERT Figure 191 — Valve Seat Insert Dimensions
DIMENSIONS
1. Valve Seat Insert Face 3. Valve Seat
Refer to Figure 191. Angle 4. Valve Seat Width
2. Valve Seat Insert
r Valve seat (3) insert face angle (1) Diameter
— Inlet: 20° 30′ ± 15′
— Exhaust: 30° − 0′/+ 30′ INSPECTION
r Valve seat insert diameter (2) Visually inspect the valve seat inserts for
looseness, cracks or other conditions that may
— Inlet: 1.832–1.831 inches
result in improper operation. Replace seats as
(46.533–46.507 mm)
necessary.
— Exhaust: 1.693–1.691 inches
(43.002–42.951 mm)
r Valve seat width (4) — 0.066 ± 0.015 inch
(1.676 ± 0.381 mm)

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VALVE SEAT INSERT REMOVAL
Valve seat extractor kit PT6391 and collet
PT6390-4 are used to remove the inlet and Collet PT6390-4 is not included in the basic kit
exhaust seat inserts. Refer to Figure 192. PT6391.
192

Figure 192 — Valve Seat Extractor Kit PT6391

1. Grinding Wheels 6. Grinder Base

2. T-Handle and Shaft Assembly 7. Grinder
3. Collet 8. Wrenches
4. Allen Wrench 9. Dressing Stone
5. Lifting Bridge

1. Using depth measurement tool (1), measure

the distance from the cylinder head surface
(2) to the point on insert where the groove
will be ground as shown in Figure 193. This point should be approximately 0.060 inch
(1.524 mm) below any angular face on the valve
seat insert.

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193

Use care not to damage any machined surface of

the cylinder head.

5. Attach the collet to the T-handle and shaft

assembly.
6. Position the collet in the valve seat insert so
ridge of the collet will be inside the groove.
Turn the T-handle to fully expand the collet.
7. Position lifting bridge (3) under the crank
handle (2) as shown in Figure 195. Turn the
crank handle clockwise to remove the insert.
Figure 193 — Valve Insert Depth Measurement
8. Release insert from the collet (4) by slightly
turning the T-handle (1).
1. Depth Measurement Tool 3. Groove 195
2. Cylinder Head

2. Install grinding wheel (2) into the grinder (4)

and set depth of the grinder base (1) to the
dimension found in the preceding step.
Refer to Figure 194.
3. Secure the base to grinder by tightening the
hex-head screw (3).
194

Figure 194 — Setting Depth of Grinder

1. Grinder Base 3. Hex-Head Screw

2. Grinding Wheel 4. Grinder
Figure 195 — Removing Valve Insert
4. Grind a groove around the inside
circumference of the valve seat insert. This 1. T-Handle 3. Lifting Bridge
2. Crank Handle 4. Collet
groove should be approximately 0.030 inch
(0.762 mm) deep.

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VALVE SEAT INSERT COUNTERBORE INSPECTION
Refer to Figure 196. 1. With the valve seat insert removed from the
cylinder head, clean the surface thoroughly
r Valve seat counterbore depth (3):
with a wire brush.
— Exhaust: 0.376–0.372 inch
2. Check the surface finish for smoothness.
(9.55–9.449 mm)
Check the counterbore diameter
— Inlet: 0.364–0.360 inch (Figure 197) with an inside diameter
(9.246–9.144 mm) micrometer. Compare to specification.
197
r Inlet valve seat insert counterbore diameter
(4): 1.8295–1.8285 inches
(46.4693–46.4439 mm)
r Exhaust valve seat counterbore diameter
(5): 1.6885–1.6875 inches
(42.8879–42.8625 mm)
196

Figure 197 — Checking Counterbore Dimensions

1. Inside Diameter 2. Cylinder Head

Micrometer

Figure 196 — Valve Seat Insert Counterbore Dimensions

1. Exhaust Valve Guide 4. Inlet Valve Seat Insert

2. Inlet Valve Guide Counterbore Diameter
3. Valve Seat Counterbore 5. Exhaust Valve Seat
Depth Counterbore Diameter

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VALVE SEAT INSERT INSTALLATION 3. Grind the inlet/exhaust valve seat inserts to
specification.
r Inlet valve inserts: 20° 30′ ± 15′ angle
Oversize inlet and exhaust valve seat inserts are r Exhaust valve inserts: 30° −0′/+30′
available in 0.005, 0.015, 0.031, 0.047 and
0.062 inch sizes if the counterbore requires
machining.
Always use 30-degree valves with 30-degree
1. If required, machine the inlet and exhaust valve inserts and 20-degree valves with
valve seat insert counterbores using tool 20-degree valve inserts. Excessive wear and
HT77136. possible failure will result if 30-degree parts are
matched with 20-degree parts.
2. Position the valve seat insert (1) over the
corresponding counterbore as shown in
Figure 198. Install the inserts using valve
seat insert installation set J 38586 (2). Use
driver handle J 8092 (3) to drive the valve If valve seat insert widths exceed specifications
seat insert into the counterbore. when grinding the inserts, use a 15-degree angle
198
grinding stone to obtain the correct width.

4. After grinding, thoroughly clean the valve

seat insert.
5. Determine the concentricity of each valve
seat insert relative to the valve guide. Valve
seat runout is to be held within 0.002 inch
(0.051 mm) FIM (Full Indicator Movement),
with finished valve guide ID measurements
made from snug-fitting arbor (1) and
through-mounted into finished valve guides
(2) as shown in Figure 199.

Figure 198 — Valve Seat Insert Installation

1. Valve Seat Insert 3. J 8092

2. J 38586

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199
Valve Spring Inspection
[213 MB]
1. Visually inspect the inside surfaces of the
spring coils. Also, feel the inside surfaces of
each spring for any indication of roughness
or grooving. If either of these conditions
exist, replace the spring.
2. Check springs on the universal spring tester
J 22738-02 as shown in Figure 200. With
springs compressed to 1.5 inches
(38.1 mm), the pressure should be within
specification, 190–210 lb (86.2–95.3 kg).

If spring pressure does not meet specification,

replace the spring.
200

Figure 199 — Checking Valve Seat Runout

1. Arbor 2. Valve Guides

6. After checking runout, determine the

position of contact between the valve and
valve seat insert. Apply a dab of Prussian
Blue to the valve face at four points,
90 degrees apart.
7. Lower stem of the valve into the valve guide
and allow the valve face to rest on the seat
insert. Rotate the valve 90 degrees on the
insert. Carefully remove the valve without
making contact with the valve face. Properly
ground inserts should show a full pattern of
contact on the insert.

Thoroughly clean the cylinder head after

checking the valve seat inserts and before Figure 200 — Checking Valve Spring Pressure
installing the valves.
1. Spring Tester J 22738-02 2. Valve Spring

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Injection Nozzle Holder Insert INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Replacement 1. Clean the nozzle insert bore in the cylinder
head and the contact surfaces with Loctite®
[213 GB] Primer T.
2. Apply Loctite® 620 to the cylinder head and
The injection nozzle holder insert is machined to insert surfaces. Refer to Figure 202.
provide a press-fit in the cylinder head. 202

REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. To remove the injection nozzle holder insert,
tap the ID with a 24 mm -3 tap to a depth of
approximately 1-1/2 inches.
2. Install nozzle sleeve (insert) puller J 42678
(2) to slide hammer J 2619-01 (1) or
equivalent as shown in Figure 201.
3. Thread the puller into the end of the nozzle
holder insert and use the slide hammer to
remove the insert.
201

Figure 202 — Fuel-Injection Nozzle Insert

Figure 201 — Removing Injection Nozzle Holder Insert

1. Slide Hammer J 2619-01 2. Sleeve Puller J 42678

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3. Install the insert in the cylinder head with the Valve Yoke Guide Pin Replacement
indexing notch aligned in direction of the
high-pressure fuel line hole in the head. [213 FH]
4. Install the alignment pin and using nozzle
insert installer J 42595, drive the insert into Valve yoke guide pins are located between each
the cylinder head until it bottoms on the set of inlet and exhaust valve guides on engines
lower counterbore face. Refer to Figure 203 produced before March 2, 2000. Beginning with
and Figure 204. March 2, 2000 production (engine serial
203 No. 0D0120), valve yoke guide pins are located
only between each set of exhaust valve guides
since these engines use pinless valve yokes to
actuate the inlet valves.

INSPECTION
Inspect the valve yoke guide pin surface for
cracks or other damage. Also check the pin
diameter and installed height.

REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Remove a broken pin as follows:

Figure 203 — Nozzle Sleeve (Insert) Installer

204
Due to the hardness of the valve yoke guide pins,
drilling and tapping must be done slowly with
sharp tools and with plenty of lubrication.

1. Center punch the broken section of the pin

in the cylinder head prior to drilling.

The punch mark must be close to the center of

the broken pin to control the drilling operation.

2. Using a drill press, drill a 13/64-inch pilot

hole completely through the broken section
of the yoke pin.

A drill press is strongly recommended to keep the

drilled hole straight with the yoke pin hole in the
cylinder head. Use care when drilling to “feel”
Figure 204 — Injection Nozzle Holder Insert Installation when the drill bit passes through the yoke pin and
contacts the cylinder head. Stop drilling at that
1. Nozzle Sleeve Installer J 2. Alignment Pin point to avoid drilling through the head and into
42595 the water jacket.

3. Drill a 5/16-inch hole completely through the

broken section of the yoke pin.

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4. Tap the broken yoke pin as deep as possible INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
using a 3/8-inch NC starter tap and cutting
If a new valve yoke guide pin is required, apply
oil. Clean out the cutting chips using
Loctite® 635 to the pin and use guide pin installer
compressed air.
J 29296 to drive the pin into the cylinder head.
5. Repeat the above step using a 3/8-inch NC The guide pin will be at the correct height when
bottom tap. Again, clean out the cutting tool bottoms on the cylinder head. Refer to
chips using compressed air. Figure 206.
206
6. Using a slide hammer fitted with a 3/8-inch
NC extractor, remove the broken yoke pin
from the cylinder head (Figure 205).

Thread the slide-hammer extractor as deep as

possible into the threaded yoke pin. Failure to
install the extractor deep enough will cause the
yoke pin to break again.

7. Clean out any remaining chips with

compressed air and inspect the yoke pin
hole in the cylinder head for drilling or
tapping damage.
205

Figure 206 — Valve Yoke Guide Pin Installation

1. Valve Yoke Guide Pin 2. J 29296

Cylinder Head Cup Plug

Replacement
[213 FP]
The cylinder head has two different size cup
plugs. Both sizes are installed using the following
procedure:
1. Clean the cup bore thoroughly.
2. Using Loctite® 277 sealer, or equivalent,
apply the sealer to the cup plug and plug
bore in the head.

Figure 205 — Valve Yoke Guide Pin Removal

1. Extractor Lock (Part of PT6570-11)

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3. Install cup plugs in the cylinder head, using Cylinder Head Pipe Plug
the appropriate cylinder head core plug
installer, J 34684 for 13/16-inch (20.64 mm) Replacement
cup plugs, and J 34687 for 1-1/16 inch GENERAL INFORMATION
(26.99 mm) cup plugs. Refer to Figure 207.
The 3/4-inch cylinder head pipe plugs sealed with
a teflon-based thread sealer may loosen and
result in a coolant leak after initial installation.
Cup plug should be installed flush with the Beginning April 1, 1999 (engine serial number
cylinder head machined surface to 0.020 inch series 9F), 3/4-inch pipe plugs having a
(0.508 mm) below the surface. preapplied encapsulated epoxy sealant were
phased into engine production. With the epoxy
207 sealer, the pipe plugs are locked into place,
making them immovable when normal loosening/
tightening methods are used. Should it become
necessary to remove a pipe plug, the following
procedure should be used.

If a cylinder head has been placed in a hot

chemical tank for cleaning and degreasing, the
pipe plugs must be checked for looseness. If a
plug is found to be loose, the epoxy seal has
been broken, making it necessary to remove the
plug, clean the plug and cylinder head threads
with Loctite® Primer T and reseal the threads with
Loctite® 277.
If coolant leaks at the cylinder head pipe plugs
are encountered on engines manufactured prior
to engine serial number series 9F, the pipe plugs
must be removed, cleaned and reinstalled
following the procedures below.

REPLACEMENT (3/4-INCH PLUGS)

Refer to Figure 208.
1. Heat the pipe plug to 400°F (205°C) with a
torch.
Figure 207 — Cylinder Head Cup Plug Installation
2. With the pipe plug heated sufficiently,
remove the plug from the cylinder head.
1. Cup Plug 2. Cup Plug Installer
3. Remove the epoxy sealant from the threads
on both the plug and in the cylinder head.
4. Clean the plug and cylinder head threads
with Loctite® Primer T.
5. Apply Loctite® 277 sealant to the plug and
cylinder head threads.
6. Install the plugs and tighten to the specified
torque, 55 lb-ft (68 N•m).

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REPLACEMENT (1/8-, 1/16-INCH PLUGS) 3. Install a 1/8-inch NPT pipe plug in the fuel
passage at the top front location of the front
1. If reusing a pipe plug, the threads on the
cylinder head. Tighten the plug to the
plug and in the cylinder head must be
specified torque, 6 lb-ft (8 N•m).
thoroughly cleaned and dried.
4. Install a 1/16-inch NPT pipe plug in each end
2. Apply dry pipe thread sealant to the pipe
of the cylinder head. Tighten the plugs to the
plug and plug bore in the cylinder head.
specification.
208

Figure 208 — Cylinder Head Pipe Plug Locations

1. 1-1/16-inch Cup Plug 4. 3/4-inch NPT Plug

2. 1/16-inch NPT Plug 5. 13/16-inch Cup Plug
3. 1/8-inch NPT Plug

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Valve Replacement Visually inspect valves for cracks, pits or other
conditions that may cause improper operation.
[213 NB] Check valve seat angle. Also check stem length,
diameter and condition.
209

INSPECTION
Refer to Figure 209.

Figure 209 — Valve Dimensions

1. Inlet Valve 4. Minimum After Grinding: 0.130 inch (Inlet), 0.100 inch
2. Pyromet Exhaust Valve (Exhaust)
3. Seat Angle: 20° Inlet, 30° Exhaust 5. One Stem Groove
6. Two Stem Grooves

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INLET AND EXHAUST VALVE
IDENTIFICATION
To permit positive identification, exhaust valve With the new, more effective valve stem seals
has two stem grooves and inlet valve has one (P/N 446GC328), pre-lubing the seals and valve
stem groove in addition to the valve spring keeper stems during installation is extremely important.
groove. Perform the following:
The valves are also identified by the letter “J” r Valve Stem-to-Guide — If valves are
(20-degree inlet), and letters “EX” (exhaust), on removed, lubricate the inside diameter of the
the bottom face of the valve head. Refer to valve guides by using a “bottle brush” coated
Figure 210 for an illustration of the inlet valve with Dow Corning® BR2 Plus multipurpose
identification. grease. This is particularly important when
210 both the valves and the valve guides are
new. With an on-engine seal replacement,
pre-lube the valve stems with clean engine
oil while moving the valve up and down,
prior to installation of the valve spring.
r Valve Stem-to-Seal Lip — The inside
diameter of the seal lip and outside diameter
of the valve stem should be well-lubricated
with clean engine oil when installing the seal
over the valve stem.

It is essential that the J 42453 Valve Stem Seal

Installation tool be used to install the seals. This
tool bottoms on the cylinder head rocker arm
mounting bracket surface when the seal is
Figure 210 — 20-Degree Intake Valve Identification installed to the proper depth on the valve guide.
Using any non-bottoming type seal driver (such
VALVE INSTALLATION as a socket) may result in distorting the top
surface of the seal casing which permanently
distorts the seal lip and prevents proper sealing. It
can also result in the top rubber portion of the
seal being cut off.
The inlet and exhaust valve head diameters are
nearly the same size. It is important, therefore, 1. Lubricate the valve guides and valve stems
that extra care be taken when installing these with clean engine oil prior to installation.
valves.
2. Install the valve spring lower washer
(Roto-Coil) over the valve guide.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS

Before installing the valve stem seals, be sure the

rotator has been installed. The rotator will not fit
over the valve stem seal.

3. Lubricate the valve stem seals with engine

oil and install the seals using valve seal
installer J 42453.
4. Install the valve in the cylinder head.
5. Check the valve stem tip for nicks or burrs
that may damage valve seal upon
installation.
6. Install the valve spring, upper washer and
keepers. Use tool J 29294-B to install the
keepers.
7. After the valves are installed, check each
inlet valve for head height above the cylinder
deck. The protrusion dimension for inlet
valves should be 0.0425 +0.009/−0.007 inch
(1.0795 +0.229/−0.178 mm). Refer to
Figure 211 and Figure 212.
211

Figure 211 — Checking Valve Assembly Height

1. Inlet Valve 2. Depth/Height

Measurement Tool

8. Check each exhaust valve for head depth

below the cylinder deck. The depth
dimension for the exhaust valve should be
0.021 +0.009/−0.007 inch
(0.553 +0.229/−0.178 mm).

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
212

Figure 212 — Inlet/Exhaust Valve Head Depth Measurement

1. Inlet Protrusion Above Deck: 0.0425 inch 3. Exhaust Valve

+0.009/−0.007 inch (1.0795 +0.229/−0.178 mm) 4. Exhaust Valve Depth Below Deck: 0.021 inch
2. Inlet Valve +0.009/−0.007 inch (0.553 +0.229/−0.178 mm)

If the dimensions are not within specification,

machine the valve seat insert and/or valve face
as necessary. Refer back to the Valve Seat Insert
Installation procedure in this section.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
VALVE ROCKER ARM SHAFT Valve Rocker Arm Shaft
BENCH PROCEDURES Disassembly (without/with Engine
[213 LP] Brake)

Rocker Arms
Early-production E-Tech™ engines used the For early-production engines, six C-clips are used
older style rocker arms of the E7 engine. Effective to retain the rocker arms in position. For later-
second quarter 1997, both models use a newly production, the four inboard C-clips and washers
designed rocker arm (Figure 213) where the are replaced with two spacer tubes to properly
slipper end wear surface is a hardened, headed position the rocker arms.
pin, pressed into the rocker arm.
213
Refer to Figure 214 and Figure 215. The shaft
assembly is disassembled as follows:
1. Remove the C-clip and flat washer from one
end of the shaft.
2. Remove the outer rocker arm and spring
washer.
3. Press the mounting bracket from the shaft.
Use care not to drop the assembly as the
bracket is removed.
4. Remove the second spring washer, rocker
arm, flat washer and C-clip or spacer tube, if
so equipped.
5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 to remove the two
remaining rocker arm sets from the shaft.
6. Remove the adjusting screws and jam nuts
from the rocker arms.

Inspection
Inspect all components of the rocker arm and
bracket assembly for evidence of damage or
wear. Replace as necessary.

Figure 213 — New-Style Rocker Arm

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Valve Rocker Arm Shaft 11. Lubricate the exhaust rocker arm and install
on the shaft.
Reassembly (without Engine Brake)
12. Lubricate a spring washer, install it on the
shaft next to the exhaust rocker arm and
press the center mounting bracket onto the
shaft. This bracket does not have a threaded
There is a shouldered rocker arm mounting hole on top or an oil hole at bottom surface.
capscrew at one end of each rocker arm Align the mounting surface and offset of the
assembly to ensure proper alignment. bracket with the bracket already installed.
13. Lubricate a spring washer and install it on
Refer to Figure 214. the shaft next to the center bracket.

The assembly procedure for the rocker arm shaft 14. Lubricate and install the inlet rocker arm on
is described below. The arrangement includes the shaft.
valve rocker arms (with lash adjusters) and 15. Install a flat washer and C-clip (1) on the
mounting brackets mounted on the shaft. The shaft to retain the center inlet rocker arm.
bracket mounting dimensions are the same for
both non-brake and brake assemblies. 16. Follow steps 10 through 15 to install the
remaining set of rocker arms and mounting
1. Lubricate the six adjusting screws and jam bracket.
nuts (4), and install one in each of the rocker
arms. The adjusting screws are identical for
both inlet and exhaust rocker arms.
2. Position the shaft (8) so that the screw At this point, a used or scrapped cylinder head
locating hole is in line with the bracket can be used as a template for proper bracket
locating screw hole. alignment and to ensure mounting surfaces of
each bracket are parallel.
3. The offset side of the bracket must be
positioned toward the right side of the
engine. 17. Check for proper bracket alignment. Ensure
that mounting surfaces of each bracket are
4. Assemble bracket (6) on a press table. parallel.
Press the shaft into the bracket until the oil
hole in the shaft is aligned with the hole in
the bracket. Install the locating screw and
lock washer (3) to secure the bracket on the
shaft.
5. Lubricate the spring washers (2) and install
the washers on the shaft, one on each side
of the mounting bracket.
6. Lubricate the exhaust rocker arm (5) and
install it on the shaft.
7. Install a flat washer and C-clip (1) on the
shaft to retain the exhaust rocker arm.
8. Lubricate the inlet rocker arm (7) and install
it on the shaft.
9. Install a flat washer and C-clip (1) on the
shaft to retain the inlet rocker arm.
10. Install a flat washer and C-clip, if so
equipped, on the shaft to position and retain
the exhaust rocker arm at the center position
of the shaft.

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214

Figure 214 — Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly (without Engine Brake)

1. Flat Washer and C-Clip 6. Mounting Bracket

2. Spring Washer 7. Inlet Rocker Arm
3. Locating Screw and Lock Washer 8. Shaft
4. Standard Adjusting Screws and Jam Nuts 9. Capscrews (Short)
5. Exhaust Rocker Arm 10. Washers (not used if equipped with flangehead bolts)

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Valve Rocker Arm Shaft 8. Install a flat washer and C-clip (1) on the
shaft to retain the exhaust rocker arm.
Reassembly (with J-Tech™ Engine
9. Lubricate the inlet rocker arm (7) and install
Brake) it on the shaft.
10. Install a flat washer and C-clip (1) on the
shaft to retain the inlet rocker arm.
There is a shouldered rocker arm mounting 11. Install a flat washer and C-clip on the shaft
capscrew at one end of each rocker arm to position and retain the exhaust rocker arm
assembly to ensure proper alignment. at the center position of the shaft.
12. Lubricate the exhaust rocker arm and install
Refer to Figure 215. on the shaft.
13. Lubricate a spring washer, install it on the
The assembly procedure for the rocker arm shaft shaft next to the exhaust rocker arm and
of a J-Tech™ brake-equipped engine is nearly press the center mounting bracket onto the
identical to that of the non-brake engine with the shaft. This bracket does not have a threaded
following differences: hole on top or an oil hole at bottom surface.
r An oil supply screw (3) replaces the locating Align the mounting surface and offset of the
screw and lock washer. bracket with the bracket already installed.
r A spherical jam nut and adjusting screw (4) 14. Lubricate a spring washer and install it on
replaces the standard jam nut and adjusting the shaft next to the center bracket.
screw on the exhaust rocker arms. 15. Lubricate and install the inlet rocker arm on
the shaft.
The installation procedure is as follows:
16. Install a flat washer and C-clip (1) on the
1. Lubricate the three adjusting screws and shaft to retain the center inlet rocker arm.
jam nuts (8) for the inlet rocker arms, and
install one in each of the arms. 17. Follow steps 11 through 16 to install the
remaining set of rocker arms and mounting
2. Lubricate the three adjusting screws and bracket.
spherical jam nuts (4) for the exhaust
rocker arms, and install one in each of the
arms.
3. Position the shaft (9) so that the screw At this point, a used or scrapped cylinder head
locating hole is in line with the bracket can be used as a template for proper bracket
locating screw hole. alignment and to ensure mounting surfaces of
each bracket are parallel.
4. The offset side of the bracket must be
positioned toward the right side of the
engine. 18. Check for proper bracket alignment. Ensure
that mounting surfaces of each bracket are
5. Assemble bracket (6) on a press table. parallel.
Press the shaft into the bracket until the oil
hole in the shaft is aligned with the hole in
the bracket. Install the oil supply screw (3) to
secure the bracket on the shaft and tighten
the screw to specification, 5 lb-ft (7 N•m).
6. Lubricate the spring washers (2) and install
the washers on the shaft, one on each side
of the mounting bracket.
7. Lubricate the exhaust rocker arm (5) and
install it on the shaft.

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215

Figure 215 — Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly (with J-Tech™ Engine Brake)

1. Flat Washer and C-Clip 8. Standard Adjusting Screw and Jam Nut
2. Spring Washer 9. Shaft
3. Oil Supply Screw (New Style Design with Integral Check 10. Engine Brake Actuator Assembly
Valve)* 11. Electrical Connector
4. Adjusting Screw and Spherical Jam Nut 12. Solenoid
5. Exhaust Rocker Arm 13. Capscrews (Long)
6. Mounting Bracket 14. Washers (not used if equipped with flangehead bolts)
7. Inlet Rocker Arm

* A new oil supply screw assembly has been released for the J-Tech™ engine brake. This new screw incorporates an oil supply
check valve, eliminating the need for the oil supply check valve components in the engine brake housing.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
LUBRICATION SYSTEM BENCH DISASSEMBLY
PROCEDURES Refer to Figure 216.
1. For ease of disassembly, reinstall the oil
Oil Cooler Assembly pump in the cylinder block or in a suitable
Reconditioning holding fixture.
2. Remove the oil inlet (pickup) tube and
[215 DW] screen assembly (not shown).

See Cooling System Components Bench

Procedures in the REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
section. Before inlet tube removal, note the orientation of
tube for reassembly purposes. Inlet tubes are
Oil Pump Reconditioning positioned differently for front or rear sump
applications. Caution must be used to ensure that
[219 MU] the correct mounting holes are used for the
proper sump application.
Because of differences in the E-Tech™ and E7
gear set helixes, it is important that the correct 3. Remove the oil pressure relief valve cap
replacement parts are used in making the repair. (13).
r An improper drive gear on the oil pump will 4. Remove the oil pressure relief valve spring
prevent oil pump installation, assuming a (12) and plunger (11).
correct gear is on the auxiliary shaft. 5. Remove the oil pump housing cover (7) from
r If an oil pump and an auxiliary shaft the oil pump housing (4).
assembly were replaced, two improper 6. Slide the oil pump idler gear (14) off the
gears could be installed, and engine failure shaft.
would result.
7. Remove the oil pump from the cylinder block
r In replacing any of these critical parts, or other suitable holding fixture.
always refer to part number information in
the MACK Parts System to ensure the 8. Turn the oil pump upside down and remove
correct component/part is being used. the oil pump shaft nut (1) and washer (2).
9. Using a press, remove the driven gear (3)
and key (5) from the pump gear and shaft
assembly (6).
10. Remove the pumping gear/shaft assembly
and thrust washer from the housing.
11. Remove the oil pump inlet flange plate (9)
and gasket (8) from the housing by removing
the capscrews (10).

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216

Figure 216 — Lubrication Oil Pump

1. Self-Locking Nut 9. Inlet Flange Plate

2. Washer 10. Capscrews
3. Driven Gear 11. Plunger
4. Housing 12. Relief Valve Spring
5. Key 13. Relief Valve Cap
6. Pump Gear and Shaft 14. Idler Gear
7. Oil Pump Housing Cover 15. Thrust Washer
8. Gasket

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
INSPECTION AND CLEARANCE CHECKS End Clearance Check
Refer to Figure 216.
Refer to Figure 217. With the pump gear and idler
1. Clean and inspect the oil pump housing (4) gear in place, position a straightedge across the
for scoring, cracks or other damage. If any of housing and the face of the gears. Check end
these conditions exist, replace the oil pump. clearance as follows:
2. Check the bushings in the pump housing for r Low Limit — Run a 0.003-inch (0.076-mm)
burrs, nicks or cracks. thickness gauge between the straightedge
and the gears. The gauge should move
freely without binding. If binding occurs,
check the gears for nicks or burrs. Replace
The bushings are an integral part of the oil pump as necessary.
housing. If the bushings are damaged, replace r High Limit — Run a 0.007-inch (0.178-mm)
the oil pump housing. thickness gauge between the straightedge
and the gears. The gauge should be very
3. Clean and inspect the relief valve spring (12) tight. If the gauge moves freely, replace the
for breaks. Replace as necessary. gears.
217
4. Clean and inspect the plunger (11) outer
diameter for galling and scoring. If galling
and scoring are present, replace the
plunger.
5. Inspect the plunger seating surface for burrs
or nicks. If the seating surface contains burrs
or nicks, repair the seat as follows:
a. Place valve lapping compound on the
plunger seat.
b. Insert plunger in the relief valve
housing and rotate plunger against the
seat to smooth seat.
c. Remove the plunger and clean it.
6. Check the pump idler gear (14) for free play
by spinning it on its shaft. If any binding
occurs, check the housing bore and gear
teeth for burrs, nicks or other damage.
Replace as necessary.
7. Insert the pump gear and shaft, and thrust
washer in the housing; check for free play by
spinning the gear. If any binding occurs,
check the housing and gear teeth for burrs,
nicks or other damage. Replace as
necessary. (The E-Tech™ engine oil pump
utilizes a one-piece shaft with integral
pumping gear.) Figure 217 — Oil Pump Driving/Idler Gear Assembly End
Clearance Check

1. Thickness Gauge 3. Pump Gear

Before proceeding with assembly of the pump, 2. Straightedge 4. Pump Idler Gear
insert the pump gear and idler gear in the
housing. Check end clearance, side clearance
and backlash of the gears as follows.

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Side Clearance Check Backlash Check

Refer to Figure 218. With the straightedge Refer to Figure 219.

positioned across the housing and the face of the
gears, check side clearance as follows: Check backlash between the pump gear (3) and
idler gear (2) with a thickness gauge (1).
r Low Limit — Insert a 0.002-inch (0.051-mm)
thickness gauge between side of the gears r Low Limit — Insert a 0.013-inch (0.33-mm)
and housing. The gauge should pass thickness gauge between the pump idler
between gears and housing without drag. If gear and pump gear. The gauge should
it drags, check the housing and gears for pass between gears without binding. If
nicks or burrs. Replace as necessary. binding occurs, check for nicks or burrs.
Replace as necessary.
r High Limit — Insert a 0.006-inch (0.152-mm)
thickness gauge between gears and r High Limit — Insert a 0.028-inch (0.711-mm)
housing. The gauge should not pass thickness gauge between the pump idler
through. If the gauge passes through, gear and pump gear. The gauge should not
replace the housing. pass through. If the gauge passes through,
218
replace the gears.
219

Figure 218 — Oil Pump Driving/Idler Gear Assembly

Side Clearance Check Figure 219 — Checking Oil Pump Gear Backlash

1. Thickness Gauge 3. Pump Gear 1. Thickness Gauge 3. Pump Gear

2. Pump Idler Gear 2. Pump Idler Gear

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
REASSEMBLY
Refer back to Figure 216.
1. Install the one-piece pump gear/shaft (6) Because the inlet tube must be in a vertical
and thrust washer (15) in the housing and position when installed in the engine, the
check for free spin. mounting flange bolt pattern is off-set to the same
degree as the oil pump-to-cylinder block
2. Install key (5) in the pump gear shaft (6). mounting angle. The mounting flange of the inlet
3. Place gear (3) on the shaft, aligning the slot tube has four bolt holes marked with an F or R to
with the shaft key. Press the driven gear on distinguish which two holes are used for the front
the shaft. sump, and which two holes are used for rear
sump applications. Caution must be used to
4. Install washer (2) and self-locking nut (1) on ensure that the correct mounting holes are used
the shaft. Tighten the nut to specification, for the proper sump applications.
60 lb-ft (81 N•m), using torque wrench
J 24407, or equivalent.
5. Install the idler gear (14) on the housing COOLING SYSTEM
shaft.
COMPONENTS BENCH
6. Install cover (7) on the pump and secure the
cover with capscrews. Tighten the
PROCEDURES
capscrews to specification, 15 lb-ft (20 N•m).
Oil Cooler Reconditioning
[215 DW]
Apply Loctite® 271 to all capscrews used to
assemble the oil pump. Early-production engines with the right-side
mounted EECU are equipped with a removable
bundle-type oil cooler that can be disassembled,
7. Install the oil pressure relief valve plunger inspected and tested, and the bundle replaced if
(11) in the relief valve housing (4). necessary. The plate-type oil cooler (Figure 220)
on current-production engines with the left-side
mounted EECU cannot be disassembled. Should
it fail, it is replaced as an assembly.
To maintain correct oil pressure for the various oil 220

system arrangements, the proper oil pressure

relief valve spring and cap combination must be
used. Using incorrect components may result in
either high or low oil pressure, and contribute to
premature engine damage.

8. Install the oil pressure relief valve spring (12)

in the relief valve housing.
9. Clean the relief valve cap (13) and install it in
the relief valve housing.
10. Install the pump inlet flange plate (9) and
gasket (8) on the housing. Secure the plate
with capscrews (10).
11. Install the oil inlet (pickup) tube and screen Figure 220 — Plate-Type Oil Cooler Assembly
assembly.
The following disassembly and assembly
procedures apply only for the removable bundle-
type oil cooler.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
Refer to Figure 221.
The presence of engine oil in the engine coolant
Periodic visual inspection of the oil cooler will may indicate internal engine problems or worn,
indicate condition of gaskets and O-rings. If a loosened or damaged parts within the oil cooler.
problem exists, components of the assembly can Continued operation under these conditions may
be serviced separately. result in severe engine damage.
221

Figure 221 — Removable Bundle-Type Oil Cooler Assembly

1. Gasket 15. Capscrew

2. Coolant Outlet End Cap 16. Washer
3. O-Ring 17. O-Ring
4. Mounting Flange 18. Pipe Plug
5. Clamps 19. Capscrew
6. Coupler 20. Coolant Inlet Cap
7. Gasket or O-Ring 21. Gasket
8. Washer 22. Bundle
9. Capscrew 23. Gasket
10. Oil Outlet Tube 24. Housing
11. O-Ring 25. Gasket
12. Capscrew 26. Capscrew
13. Washer 27. Capscrew
14. Oil Supply Head

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
DISASSEMBLY 222

Refer to Figure 221.

1. Remove the coolant inlet end cap (20) by
removing six capscrews (19).
2. Remove the coolant outlet end cap (2) by
removing six capscrews (26).
3. Remove the bundle (22) from the coolant
inlet end of the housing (24).
4. Remove the O-ring (3) from the coolant
outlet end of the housing.
5. Clean gasket material from all surfaces.

INSPECTION
1. Visually inspect the housing for cracks which
may cause a leak. Replace the housing if
damaged.
2. Pressure check the oil cooler for leaks by
installing a test plate with an air fitting as
follows:
a. Position a rubber gasket (5) and test
plate (4) on the mounting flange (1) and
secure the plate with mounting
capscrews (2) as shown in Figure 222.
Figure 222 — Installing Test Plate
b. Install a steel plate (2) with a rubber
gasket on the oil outlet opening. Secure
1. Mounting Flange 4. Test Plate
the plate to the housing (1) with two 2. Capscrews 5. Rubber Gasket
capscrews (3) as shown in Figure 223. 3. Air Fitting
c. Connect an air line and pressurize the
assembly to 80 psi (552 kPa).
Submerge the assembly in water to
check for leaks.
When pressure testing the complete oil cooler
assembly using an in-line pressure regulator, first
apply pressure at 2–5 psi (14–34 kPa) maximum
and check for leaks. Then gradually increase the
pressure, checking for leaks until 80 psi
(552 kPa) is reached.

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223
3. Apply Permatex® gasket sealer on top of the
gasket.
4. Install the bundle (22). If necessary, tap the
bundle with a soft-faced hammer to seat the
bundle past the O-ring (3).

The alignment notch in the bundle end flange

must be positioned at the top for proper
installation.

5. Apply Permatex® gasket sealer on the

bundle end.
6. Place the gasket (21) on the bundle end.
7. Apply Permatex® gasket sealer on top of the
gasket (21) before installing the inlet cap
(20).
8. Install the coolant inlet end cap and secure
the cap with six capscrews (19).
9. Tighten the coolant inlet end-cap capscrews
to the specified torque, 20 lb-ft (27 N•m),
using torque wrench J 24405, or equivalent.
10. Apply Permatex® sealant to both sides of
the gasket (25) and install the gasket on the
Figure 223 — Sealing Oil Outlet
mounting flange (4) of the housing.
1. Housing 3. Capscrews 11. Install the coolant outlet end cap (2) with six
2. Plate capscrews (26).
12. Tighten the coolant outlet end-cap
3. If a leak is detected in the bundle after a capscrews to the specified torque, 20 lb-ft
pressure check of the oil cooler, replace the (27 N•m), using torque wrench J 24406, or
bundle. equivalent.

ASSEMBLY Water Pump Reconditioning

Refer to Figure 221.
[215 SW]
Lubricate and install O-ring (3) in the groove at
the coolant outlet end of the oil cooler housing The water pump is not a field-rebuildable unit. If a
(24). pump failure occurs, exchange it for a new or
1. Apply Permatex® gasket sealer on the remanufactured unit available through the MACK
coolant inlet flange before installing the Parts System.
gasket (23).
2. Install the gasket (23) on the coolant inlet
end of the housing (24).

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS Installation of Electronic Unit Pump
BENCH PROCEDURES Plunger Spring and Seat
Improper removal of an electronic unit pump
Electronic Unit Pump (EUP) (EUP) from an engine, or certain failures such as
Inspection broken EUP hold-down bolts, will result in a rapid
pop-up of the pump from the bore. Should this
[221 GP] occur, the unit pump tappet spring seat can
dislodge from the plunger foot. The plunger,
Refer to Figure 224. however, is retained by a retaining clip, so it will
remain in place. Should a spring seat dislodge,
Visually inspect each electronic unit pump no damage occurs to any of the parts involved,
assembly and O-rings for signs of wear or and the unit pump may be reassembled as
damage. Replace the O-rings as required. If a described below.
pump is damaged or not operating properly,
replace the pump; it is not repairable.
224

When servicing a unit pump, take care not to

damage any machined or threaded surfaces.
Work should be performed on a clean, non-
metallic surface.

1. Remove the plunger retaining clip.

225

Figure 224 — Electronic Unit Pump Assembly

Figure 225 — Plunger Retaining Clip Removal

1. Retaining Clip

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
2. Pull the plunger out of the unit pump bore 227

until the gold portion of the plunger is visible

through the retaining clip slot. The shoulder
of the plunger (where the silver-colored and
gold-colored areas meet), will just align with
the bottom of the unit pump housing.

To avoid possible contamination or damage to the

plunger, do not remove the plunger completely
from the unit pump. If the plunger is inadvertently
removed, dip it in clean fuel, carefully reinstall into
the unit pump bore, then check for smooth, free
movement in the unit pump bore.
226

Figure 227 — Plunger Retaining Clip Installation

4. Place the spring onto the unit pump body.

228

Figure 226 — Gold-Colored Plunger Surface, Behind

Retaining Clip Slot

1. Retaining Clip Slot 2. Gold-Colored Surface

3. With the plunger pulled from the unit pump

bore as described in step 2, slide the
retaining clip into place. The flat side of the
clip goes into the retaining clip slot.

The plunger must be positioned as described in

step 2 when the clip is installed, or reassembling
the unit pump spring and spring seat will be Figure 228 — Plunger Spring Installation
difficult, if not impossible.
5. Install the spring seat (flat side against the
spring) with the larger hole of the spring seat
keyhole opening over the plunger foot.
6. Slide the spring seat so that the plunger foot
goes into the smaller, center hole of the
keyhole slot.

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229
9. Reinstall the unit pump into the engine using
the procedures as outlined under Engine
Reassembly in the REPAIR
INSTRUCTIONS section.

Fuel Injector Nozzle Cleaning

[222 KG]
Refer to Figure 231.

When servicing the nozzle holder assemblies,

cleaning of the nozzle tips may be necessary.
Special care must be taken when cleaning the
nozzle tips to avoid damaging the nozzle spray
holes.
231

Figure 229 — Spring Seat Installation

7. Using the heel of the hand, press down on

the plunger and spring seat until a click is
heard. The click indicates that the plunger
has been pushed down, and the retaining
clip has seated to hold the plunger, spring
and spring seat in place.
230

Figure 230 — Plunger and Spring Seat Seating

8. Install new O-rings and lubricate with clean

engine oil. Figure 231 — Fuel Injection Nozzle Holder Assembly

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ULTRASONIC CLEANING METHOD ENGINE REASSEMBLY
Ultrasonic cleaning is the preferred method for
cleaning the fuel injector nozzles. Ultrasonic General Instructions
cleaning units, such as J 29653-A, use sound
waves or mechanical vibrations approximately This section includes step-by-step procedures for
55,000 cycles per second above human hearing complete reassembly of the MACK E-Tech™
range. The sound waves are generated by the engine. Major components that were inspected
transducer, which changes high-frequency and overhauled or replaced under the respective
electrical energy into mechanical energy. bench procedure sections of this manual are
reinstalled here as assemblies.
BRASS BRUSH/WIRE WHEEL METHOD
Cleaning the fuel injector nozzles with a brass
brush or wire wheel may be acceptable under Failure to follow the sequence of operations listed
some conditions, but it is not recommended. may result in damage to components or personal
The nozzles will be damaged if a steel wire wheel injury.
is used for cleaning. Damage can also occur if an
improper size brass-wire wheel and/or improper
speed is used.

After cleaning the components, properly store

them where they will remain clean until needed
for reassembly.
When required for installing components, be sure
to use clean engine oil of the approved type.

Crankshaft Installation
[212 HP]
1. Be sure that the crankshaft and the
crankcase area of the cylinder block are
clean.
2. Thoroughly clean each main bearing bore
and the back of each bearing insert before
installation. The inserts must be installed
dry.

The hole in the insert must line up with the drilled

hole in the block or the bearing will fail due to lack
of lubrication. The upper bearing insert is
stamped on the back with the word “UPPER.”

3. Place the upper half of the bearing insert (2)

in the cylinder block main bearing bore,
making sure that the locating tab (1) fits into
the notch in the bore (Figure 232).

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232
4. Repeat the previous step to install the
remaining upper inserts. Refer to Figure 233
for the part number and location of each
bearing insert.

A bearing insert installed at the wrong location

can cause engine failure.
233

Figure 232 — Main Bearing Insert (Upper)

1. Locating Tab 2. Bearing Insert

Figure 233 — Main Bearing Insert Part Numbers and Locations

1. Upper Insert — 646B348; Lower Insert — 646B343 5. Upper Insert — 646B345; Lower Insert — 646B343
2. Upper Insert — 646B345; Lower Insert — 646B343 6. Upper Insert — 646B345; Lower Insert — 646B343
3. Upper Insert — 646B345; Lower Insert — 646B343 7. Upper Insert — 646B350; Lower Insert — 646B344
4. Upper Insert — 646B349; Lower Insert — 646B344

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
5. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil on the
insert surfaces and on the crankshaft main
bearing journals.
Do not mix the caps or inserts. The caps are
numbered from 1 through 7, front to rear.
234

Due to the considerable weight of the

crankshaft, extreme care must be observed
during installation. No nicks, scratches,
burrs, or any other kinds of distress are
acceptable on the main bearing and/or
crankshaft journals and fillets.

6. Using a suitable lifting device, position the

crankshaft in the cylinder block.

Main Bearing Cap Installation

[212 HH]
Figure 234 — Main Bearing Installation (Lower)

Unfinished main bearing caps are available for 1. Locating Tab 3. Bearing Cap
2. Bearing Insert
servicing of E-Tech™ engines. These are
undersize bore bearing caps for service rebore:
3. Lubricate the threads of the bearing
r Cap, Intermediate and Front Main Bearing capscrews with clean engine oil and place
(Semi-Finished), No. 223GB2131M capscrews in the cap holes.
r Cap, Rear and Center Main Bearing (Semi- 4. Position the No. 1 bearing cap over the
Finished), No. 223GB2132 No. 1 crankshaft journal and start the screws
in the threaded holes in the cylinder block.

SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED 5. Using a plastic-faced mallet, tap the bearing

cap down until it contacts the machined
r Magnetic Base Indicator Tool J 7872 mounting surface.
6. Tighten the screws until they contact the
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE bearing cap. At this time, tighten them only
1. Clean the bore in the bearing cap and back finger-tight.
of the lower bearing insert. 7. Repeat the above steps for the bearing cap
2. Install the bearing insert in the bearing cap Nos. 2, 3, 5, 6 and 7. The center bearing
bore (Figure 234). The insert must be cap, No. 4, is installed later.
installed dry. 8. Tighten the bearing cap capscrews to
specification, 210 lb-ft (285 N•m), using
torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

The lower bearing inserts do not have a hole or a

groove. They are stamped with the word
“LOWER.”

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
9. Place the upper thrust washer sections in 235

position in the cylinder block at the center

bearing, No. 4, location as shown in
Figure 236. The steel side of the thrust
washer goes toward the block, the copper or
aluminum-faced side goes toward the
crankshaft (this applies to upper and lower
thrust washer sections). Oil reservoir
grooves are cut into the aluminum-faced
side, as well as tip-face reliefs.

Use standard thickness thrust washers initially.

Beginning October 1996, a new style thrust

washer was phased into production for E-Tech™
engines. These thrust washers are steel backed
with an aluminum facing material on the side
installed against the crankshaft. The obvious
color difference of the previously used bronze/
steel washers is no longer present making it
difficult to determine which side of the washer is
meant to be installed against the crankshaft. Care
should be taken when installing these aluminum
faced thrust washers as the steel side is nearly Figure 235 — Thrust Washer Styles
the same color as the aluminum surface. Locate
the oil the reservoir grooves and the tip reliefs cut
into the aluminum, and install those sides against
the crankshaft. To prevent damage, ensure the thrust washers
are installed in the correct position when
assembling an engine. Failure to install the thrust
washer properly will result in rapid wear of the
area where the crankshaft contacts the thrust
washer.

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236

Figure 236 — Crankshaft Thrust Washer Installation

10. Position the lower thrust washer sections on

the center bearing cap (aluminum-faced side
toward crankshaft) and install the cap
(Figure 237). Torque the capscrews to
specification, 210 lb-ft (285 N•m), using
torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

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237

Figure 237 — Main Bearing Cap/Thrust Washer Installation

1. Bearing Cap 3. No. 4 Journal

2. Thrust Washer

11. Install a magnetic base indicator tool, 16. If the end play is out of specification, remove
J 7872, or equivalent, on the block with the the thrust washers and install properly sized
plunger against a crankshaft counterweight thrust washers, as required, to bring the end
to check crankshaft end play. play into specification.
12. Using a suitable pry bar, move the
crankshaft either forward or rearward until it
stops. Tap the end of the crankshaft with a
plastic-faced hammer to seat the thrust The thickness of the thrust washers used in the
washer. bearing cap must match the thickness of the
thrust washers in the block. Be sure to put the
13. Using the pry bar, move the crankshaft in the aluminum-faced bearing surface of the thrust
opposite direction. Tap the end of the washer against the crankshaft when installing the
crankshaft with a plastic-faced hammer to thrust washers.
seat the other thrust washer.
14. Set the dial on the indicator to zero. 17. Install the center main bearing cap, with
bearing insert and the correct thrust washer
15. Using the pry bar, move the crankshaft in the sections in place, and torque the bearing
opposite direction and read the dial capscrews to specification.
indicator. Refer to the allowable tolerances
under Fits and Limits in the 18. Recheck the end play to ensure the thrust
SPECIFICATIONS section. washers have been installed correctly and
that end play is within specification. Rotate
the crankshaft to ensure there is no binding.

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CHECKING RUNNING CLEARANCE 238

When using the Plastigage method of checking

running clearance, do not turn the crankshaft.
Doing so will destroy the Plastigage.

If checking the main bearing clearance with the

engine in the upright position (such as in the
chassis), the weight of the crankshaft must be
removed from the lower half of the bearing being
checked. To do this, place cardboard under the
crankshaft journal in the main caps adjacent to
the journal to be checked and tighten the
adjacent caps until the journal to be checked
seats against the upper bearing. Do not fully
torque screws. Capscrews on the bearing being
checked should be torqued to specification after
Plastigage strip has been positioned on the
bearing shell and the cap reinstalled. Support the
crankshaft at Nos. 1, 4 and 7 main journals, while
checking Nos. 2, 3, 5 and 6 bearings. Support the
crankshaft at the Nos. 3 and 5 journals, while
checking the Nos. 1, 4 and 7 bearings.
Figure 238 — Checking Running Clearance with
Plastigage
ENGINE OUT OF CHASSIS AND INVERTED
1. Main Bearing Cap 3. Bearing Insert
1. Use Plastigage to check the main bearing 2. Plastigage 4. Crankshaft Journal
clearance. Check each bearing, one at a
time, by placing a piece of Plastigage on the
5. Remove the capscrews and cap, and check
journal and tightening the cap in place. The
the bearing running clearance.
bearing clearance is determined by
measuring the width of the crushed 6. Check the width of the Plastigage using a
Plastigage with the supplied gauge. Plastigage width chart. After measuring
width, remove the Plastigage from the
2. Place a section of Plastigage (2) on the
bearing.
journal to be checked and assemble the
main bearing cap (1) to the cylinder block as 7. If the clearance is not within specification,
shown in Figure 238. correct the clearance as required. Be sure to
use the proper size bearing(s).
3. Apply a light coat of oil on the threads of the
bearing cap capscrews and secure the cap. r If the clearance is less than specified,
check behind the bearing for dirt, chips
4. Tighten the capscrews to the specified
or burrs which would prevent the
torque, 210 lb-ft (285 N•m), using torque
bearing from seating properly.
wrench J 24407, or equivalent. The
Plastigage strip will be crushed between the r If the bearing bores and inserts are
bearing insert (3) and the crankshaft journal clean and undamaged, replace the
(4). inserts with inserts sized to provide the
specified clearance.

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8. Reposition the cap on the journal. Lubricate
the capscrews with clean engine oil of the
proper specification. Lubricate and install the
bearing cap buttress capscrews as required, There are two buttress capscrew dimensions:
finger-tight. Install the bearing cap r LH side 2, 3, 5, 6 and RH side 5 and 6
capscrews and tighten to the specified (6 total) are 80 mm long (1).
torque value, 210 lb-ft (285 N•m), using
torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent. r RH side FRT 2 and 3 (2 total) are 110 mm
long (2).
Refer to Figure 239.
239

Figure 239 — Buttress Capscrew Locations

1. 80-mm Buttress Capscrews 2. 110-mm Buttress Capscrews

9. After obtaining the proper main bearing 10. Tighten the buttress capscrews to the
clearance at all seven journal locations, specified torque, 90 lb-ft (122 N•m), using
check the torque of the main bearing torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.
capscrews, 210 lb-ft (285 N•m), using torque
wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

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Piston and Connecting Rod 2. Place the piston marked No. 1 on a clean,
flat surface. Rest the piston and rod
Installation assembly on the piston crown with the rod
upward.
[212 NP and 212 LP]
3. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil to the
piston and rings.
SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED
4. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil to the
r Piston Ring Compressor J 23442 or Piston inside surface of the piston ring compressor,
Ring Compressor PT7070-A J 23442, PT7070-A, or equivalent.
r BT 91104 – Torque Angle Gauge 5. Install the ring compressor by slipping it over
the rod and down over the piston skirt.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE Continue to slide the tool downward,
carefully guiding the rings into the ring
1. Rotate the crankshaft so that the journals for grooves until the tool contacts the surface on
the No. 1 and No. 6 cylinders are at bottom which the piston crown is resting.
dead center (BDC) (Figure 240).
240 6. Position the upper bearing insert into the
connecting rod. Align the tab in the bearing
insert with the notch in the rod. Be sure that
the hole in the bearing aligns with the oil
passage in the rod.

The hole in the upper connecting rod bearing

must be aligned with the oil passage in the
connecting rod. Otherwise, damage to the
bearing, rod and crankshaft journal will result.

7. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil to the

bearing surface.
8. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil to the
inside surface of the No. 1 cylinder sleeve.
9. With the ring compressor (2) in place,
position the piston and rod assembly (1) into
the No. 1 cylinder as shown in Figure 241
until the compressor contacts the top of the
sleeve. The arrow and word FRONT on both
the piston crown and the connecting rod
must be facing the front of the engine.

Figure 240 — No. 1 Cylinder (Crankshaft at BDC)

1. Crankshaft 2. No. 1 Journal

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241

Figure 241 — Piston and Connecting Rod Installation

1. Connecting Rod Assembly 3. Cylinder Block

2. Piston Ring Compressor Tool

10. Make sure the connecting rod is aligned with 11. While applying downward pressure to the
the crankshaft journal. ring compression tool (1) to keep it in
contact with the cylinder sleeve as shown in
Figure 242, use a hammer handle to push
the piston (2) through the tool. Continue
pushing on the piston until the top ring has
passed into the cylinder sleeve.

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242

Figure 242 — Pushing Piston into Cylinder Sleeve

1. Piston Ring Compressor Tool 3. Cylinder Block

2. Piston

243

Do not force the piston. This indicates an

incorrectly aligned ring. Remove the piston
assembly, correct the problem, and then reinstall
it. Make sure the compressor tool remains in
contact with the cylinder sleeve until the piston
clears the tool. If contact is not maintained,
damage to the rings may result.

Before pushing the piston all the way down in the

sleeve, check to see if piston cooling nozzle (1) is
aligned with the nozzle clearance notch (2)
provided in the lower end of the piston skirt as
shown in Figure 243. Damage to piston or spray Figure 243 — Piston Skirt/Cooling Nozzle Alignment
nozzle may result if it is not aligned.
1. Cooling Nozzle 3. Connecting Rod
2. Clearance Notch

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12. Align the rod with the crankshaft journal and RUNNING CLEARANCE CHECK
continue pushing the piston into the sleeve
1. Place a section of Plastigage on the rod cap
while guiding the rod end to clear the piston
bearing and assemble cap to the rod.
cooling nozzle and seat properly on the
crankshaft journal. 2. Apply a light coat of oil on the threads of the
rod cap capscrews and secure the cap.
13. Ensure that the correct rod bearing lower
insert (matched to upper insert) and the 3. Angle torque the capscrews to 30 lb-ft
alignment sleeves are positioned in the (41 N•m) plus 90 degrees using torque
bearing cap. angle gauge set BT 91104, or equivalent.
14. Begin by installing the bearing cap at the
No. 1 connecting rod journal (Figure 244)
and check Running Clearance following the
procedure later in this section. Repeat the The angle-torque method applies for 14-mm
running clearance check following the capscrew part Nos. 396GC211M and
installation of each of the remaining five 396GC212M with partial and full threaded
pistons. shanks, respectively. Intermixing the partial and
full threaded 14-mm capscrews on the same
connecting rod is permissible.

Running clearance must be checked after 4. Remove the capscrews and cap.
installing each piston. Damage to engine may 5. Check the width of the Plastigage on the
result if clearance is not within specification. removed cap using a Plastigage width chart.
244 After measuring width, remove the
Plastigage from the bearing.
6. If the clearance is not within specification,
correct the clearance as required:
r If the clearance is less than specified,
check behind the bearing for dirt, chips
or burrs which would prevent the
bearing from seating properly.
r If the bearing bores and inserts are
clean and undamaged, replace the
inserts with inserts sized to provide the
specified clearance.
7. Reposition the cap on the journal. Lubricate
capscrews with clean engine oil, install the
Figure 244 — Connecting Rod Cap Installation capscrews and tighten to the specified
torque, 30 lb-ft (41 N•m) plus 90 degrees
1. Connecting Rod 2. Bearing Cap using torque angle gauge set BT 91104, or
equivalent.
15. Repeat the above steps to install the No. 6
piston.
16. Rotate the crankshaft so that the journals for If the cap and rod are not properly aligned,
the No. 2 and No. 5 cylinders are at bottom bearing and rod damage may result.
dead center and install the No. 2 and No. 5
pistons following the above steps. 8. Check the rod side clearance (Figure 245)
17. Rotate the crankshaft so that the journals for by installing a thickness gauge between the
the No. 3 and No. 4 cylinders are at bottom rod and the side of the journal. Check along
dead center and install the No. 3 and No. 4 the entire parting line area.
pistons, again following the above steps.

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245
Flywheel Housing Installation
[211 HD]

Production phase-in of a redesigned die-cast

aluminum housing began approximately mid-
November 1998. The noticeable design
differences of the new die-cast aluminum housing
compared with the permanent mold cast
aluminum housing include a smaller diameter
starter drive gear mounting housing with two
large strengthening ribs along the top, and other
structural ribs around the housing.

INSPECTION
Inspect the flywheel housing machined surfaces,
capscrews, holes and dowel locations for cracks
or wear. Replace if cracks are evident.

Before installing the flywheel housing, examine

the crankshaft flange for any cracks, surface
damage or presence of foreign particles. This
type of damage could ruin the sealing capabilities
of the new seal and lead to oil leakage.

DOWEL PINS
A combination of round- and blade-style locating
dowel pins are used to install the front cover and
flywheel housing. A blade-style pin is used for the
Figure 245 — Connecting Rod Side Clearance Check flywheel. When installing the blade-style pins,
make sure the blade is properly positioned:
1. Crankshaft Journal 3. Thickness Gauge
2. Rod Bearing Cap Vertically (pointing up and down) — for the
front cover and flywheel housing
9. The clearance must be within specification Parallel to crankshaft center line — for the
listed under Fits and Limits in the flywheel
SPECIFICATIONS section. If not, recheck
for proper cap and rod alignment.

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CAPSCREWS (FLYWHEEL HOUSING)
Refer to Figure 246.
Service replacement flywheel housings are the
standardized flywheel housing. The new
appropriate mounting hardware comes with the
The E-Tech™ flywheel housing castings are new-style flywheel housing supplied by the MACK
manufactured to use standardized housing Truck Parts System.
mounting hardware as follows:
246

r Two upper external mounting location

capscrews — M3 (3 inches long)
r Six internal mounting location capscrews —
M (2 inches long)
r Eight washers used with aluminum
housing — part No. 35AX1489
r Eight washers used with ductile iron
housing — part No. 271AM5008

Figure 246 — Flywheel Housing Bolts

1. Old-Style Aluminum Flywheel Housing (No Longer Used) 2. Standardized Flywheel Housing (Aluminum or Ductile Iron)

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INSTALLATION 4. Apply an even coat of Silastic®
(approximately a 1/16-inch [2 mm] bead) to
1. Remove the rear crankshaft oil seal from the
the flywheel housing mounting surface of the
flywheel housing by drilling two 3-mm holes,
cylinder block. Refer to Figure 248.
180 degrees apart, into the outer edge of the 248
seal. Remove the seal with a slide hammer
fitted with a No. 10 sheet metal screw.
Thread it into each of the holes alternately
and work the seal free.
2. Using standard shop cleaning procedures
for aluminum, clean the seal mounting
surface.
3. Insert the two dowel pins in the cylinder
block if they were removed. Refer to
Figure 247.

The flywheel housing dowels maintain the

alignment of the flywheel housing on the engine. Figure 248 — Applying Sealant
This is necessary to center the transmission with
respect to the engine flywheel and crankshaft. 5. Align the flywheel housing on the dowels
and position it flush against the cylinder
247
block surface. Refer to Figure 249.
249

Figure 249 — Positioning Flywheel Housing

6. Install the flywheel housing mounting

capscrews and tighten them finger-tight.
7. Tighten all flywheel housing capscrews to
the specified torque, 170 lb-ft (231 N•m),
using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.
Figure 247 — Flywheel Housing Installation

1. Cylinder Block 3. Dowel Pin

2. Flywheel Housing 4. Capscrews

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RUNOUT 250

With the machined dowel method of installation,

flywheel housing runout is well within the old
service specification of 0.010 inch (0.254 mm)
Total Indicated Runout (TIR), when checked with
an alignment bar through the cylinder block main
bearing bores. However, when checking flywheel
runout using a dial indicator on the crankshaft
rear flange or the flywheel, results may exceed
0.010 inch (0.254 mm) due to factors such as
crankshaft movement within the bearing
clearances and other variables.

The dial indicator is the only method which can

be used at this stage of assembly (with
crankshaft in place). The machined dowel
method requires that crankshaft and piston
assemblies be removed.

Flywheel housing runout specifications are as

follows:
r Runout checked with an alignment bar
installed through the cylinder block main Figure 250 — Flywheel Housing Runout Check with
bearing bores: 0.010 inch (0.254 mm) TIR Alignment Bar
251
maximum. Refer to Figure 250.
r Runout checked with a dial indicator
(PT5035 with Z adapter PT5035-1) mounted
on the crankshaft rear flange or flywheel as
shown in Figure 251 is: 0.020 inch
(0.508 mm) TIR maximum. This way, the
runout may appear to be excessive due to
crankshaft movement within bearings and
other variables.

Figure 251 — Flywheel Housing Runout Check with Dial

Indicator

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Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installation 252

[212 JH]
MACK E-Tech™ engines are produced with
Teflon® oil seals. Engines with dry flywheel
housings (standard transmission) use single-lip
seals, while those with wet flywheel housings
(automatic transmission) use double-lip seals.
Single-lip replacement seals are available in
Viton or Teflon®; double-lip replacement seals are
available in Teflon® only. Viton seals are available
with an oversized inside diameter and the
corresponding wear ring.
Figure 252 — Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installation

INSTALLATION — SINGLE-LIP SEAL 1. J 37716-B 3. Installation Sleeve

Crankshaft design allows the single-lip seal to be 2. Oil Seal
installed at the production depth of 0.344 inch ±
0.005 inch (8.74 mm ± 0.127 mm), or a service 3. Using the three guide pins, attach the
depth of 0.250 inch ± 0.005 inch (6.35 mm ± adapter plate to the crankshaft flange. Refer
0.127 mm) from the rear outer edge of the to Figure 253.
crankshaft flange. 253

Special handling precautions must be taken while

installing Teflon® seals. Do not lubricate the lips
of a Teflon seal before installation. Teflon® seals
function most effectively when installed dry.
Standard-size Teflon® seals are shipped on a
plastic installation sleeve. Do not remove the seal
from the sleeve before installation. The
installation sleeve provides a smooth surface for
the seal as it moves from the tool to the
crankshaft flange.
Figure 253 — Adapter Plate J 37716-B Installation
1. Thoroughly clean the surface of the
crankshaft flange. 4. Determine the seal and wear ring installation
depth:
2. Position the oil seal (2) and installation
sleeve (3) onto the recessed side of r New seal on a new crankshaft or
J 37716-B oil seal installation tool adapter service crankshaft with a new wear
plate (1) as shown in Figure 252. The single- ring — Install to the initial production
lip seal must be installed with the lip toward depth of 0.339–0.349 inch
the engine. (8.611–8.865 mm).
r New seal on a service crankshaft with/
without a used wear ring — Install to
the service depth of 0.245–0.255 inch
(6.223–6.477 mm).
r Wear ring installation depth —
0.15–0.220 inch (5.461–5.588 mm).
Refer to Figure 254.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
254
INSTALLATION — WEAR RING WITH
DOUBLE-LIP TEFLON® SEAL
(WET-TYPE FLYWHEEL HOUSING)

The oversize inside diameter lip seal and wear

ring are shipped as an assembly, with the seal
installed on the wear ring. Do not remove the seal
from the wear ring prior to installation. The wear
ring and seal installer J 35529 is required for
installation. This tool presses both the wear ring
and the oil seal onto the crankshaft flange.

SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED

r Wear Ring and Seal Installer J 35529

Refer to Figure 255.

1. Remove existing wear ring from crankshaft
before installing new wear ring.
2. Thoroughly clean and dry the crankshaft
flange.
3. Apply a thin, even layer of Loctite® 609 to
the circumference of the crankshaft flange.

Do not lubricate the lips of a Teflon® seal before

Figure 254 — Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal
installation. Teflon® seals function most
effectively when installed dry.
1. Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal 4. Service Seal Installation
2. Production Seal Depth with Wear Ring
Installation Depth 5. Wear Ring Installation 4. The lip of one side of the seal is yellow.
3. Service Seal Installation Depth Install the oil seal with the yellow lip toward
Depth
the transmission. Position the oil seal and
wear ring assembly onto the recessed side
5. The two installation depths are stamped of the installation tool adapter plate with the
above two of the guide pin bores on the yellow lip facing away from the direction of
installation tool press plate. To install the installation (toward the transmission).
seal to the desired depth, position the press
plate so that the guide pins go through the 5. Using the three guide pins, attach the oil
bore stamped with the desired depth. seal installation tool adapter plate to the
crankshaft flange.
6. Install the press plate driver hex nut and
continue tightening until a positive stop is 6. Install the press cup over the guide pins.
felt. At this point, the seal is installed to the Then install the press cup driver hex nut.
proper depth. 7. Tighten the hex nut until a positive stop is
7. Remove the installation tool. felt. At that point, the oil seal and wear ring
are properly installed on the crankshaft
flange. The double-lip seal is properly
installed to a depth of 0.250 inch ±
0.005 inch (6.35 mm ± 0.127 mm).
8. Remove the installation tool.

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255
Flywheel Installation
[212 VC]

TIMING SCALE
The flywheel has a stamped timing scale of top
center (TC) to 45 degrees of engine travel
(engine timing) and three stamped locations,
120 degrees apart, for valve settings as shown in
Figure 256. The flywheel still has pump timing
marks to accommodate application to both
E-Tech™ and E7 engines; the marks are not
needed for the E-Tech™ engine.
256
Figure 255 — Crankshaft Wear Ring (with Double-Lip
Teflon® Seal) Installation

Figure 256 — Flywheel Markings

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INSTALLATION PROCEDURE 4. Tighten the capscrews to the specified
torque, 185 lb-ft (251 N•m), alternating from
opposite sides to apply even pressure to the
flywheel (use torque wrench J 24407, or
After resurfacing, any flywheel with drilled equivalent).
257
balance holes on the clutch side requires
rebalancing by a machine shop.

On vehicles equipped with an automatic

transmission, it may be necessary to install
different components to the flywheel retaining
capscrews. Refer to Automatic Transmission
Drive Arrangement Assembly Instructions
manual, 5-902, for installation instructions
regarding these arrangements.

When installing the flywheel, insert two alignment

studs into the flywheel mounting holes to aid in
installation.

Refer to Figure 257.

1. Position the flywheel over the dowel pin and
alignment studs on the flywheel mounting
surface at the rear of the crankshaft.
2. Install the flywheel mounting capscrews in
the exposed mounting holes. At this time,
tighten the capscrews finger-tight only. Figure 257 — Flywheel Installation

3. Remove the two alignment studs and insert

the remaining mounting capscrews.

Do not torque capscrews adjacent to each other

in sequence. Doing so may result in uneven
flywheel alignment. Capscrews on opposite sides
of the flywheel should be alternately tightened to
the specified torque.

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Valve Lifter Installation Camshaft Installation
[213 LB] [213 CH]
1. Rotate the engine 180 degrees, so bottom of
Before installing a camshaft in any engine,
the engine is facing up.
ensure that cam is clean, undamaged and well-
2. Apply a generous coating of clean engine oil lubricated with clean engine oil. Refer to the
to the lifters. Auxiliary Shaft and Camshaft Bench Procedures
in the REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS section.
3. Install the lifters into the cylinder block lifter
bores as shown in Figure 258.
258

When installing the camshaft, it is easier to

remove the camshaft guide from the camshaft
(after installation) when the idler gear is removed
and alignment of the timing marks is not being
attempted at the same time. The final step in the
process is to reinstall the idler gear.

Use camshaft guide tool J 41682 to ease

installation of the camshaft and avoid damage to
the camshaft bushings.

Figure 258 — Valve Lifter Installation

Install the camshaft as follows:
4. Make sure that the lifter flats are aligned with 1. Apply a generous coating of clean engine oil
the H-ring flats (Figure 259) and that the to the camshaft bushings.
lifters are fully seated against the H-rings.
Once installed, it should be possible to 2. Clean the camshaft with a suitable solvent.
rotate lifters slightly from left to right. 3. Install the camshaft installation guide over
259
the large flat of the injector lobe, between
the last two cam journals (journals at the
back of shaft). Refer to Figure 260.
260

Figure 259 — Installed Valve Lifter

Figure 260 — Camshaft Installation Guide

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4. Apply clean engine oil to the installation Camshaft Core Plug Installation
guide.
[213]
After the camshaft is installed, install the core
The camshaft is heavy, approximately 90 pounds plug.
with the gear. The installation guide allows the
camshaft to slide from one cam bushing to the 1. Position the core plug onto the core plug
next without allowing the cam to drop when one installation tool J 42490 (used with J 8092
journal clears the bushing bore. driver handle). Refer to Figure 262.
262

5. With the engine still rotated 180 degrees

(crankcase facing up, head deck facing
down), position the camshaft in the block
with the cam installation guide facing down
toward the floor as shown in Figure 261.
6. Slide the cam all the way into the block.
261

Figure 262 — Camshaft Core Plug Installation Tool

2. Position the core plug in the cylinder block.

3. Drive the core plug into place by striking the
installation tool with a hammer (Figure 263)
until the core plug is seated. Core plug is
fully seated when the step in the installation
tool bottoms against the block.
Figure 261 — Camshaft Installation 263

7. After the camshaft is fully installed, install

the thrust washer screws and tighten to
specification, 15 lb-ft (20 N•m).
8. Rotate crankshaft and camshaft to facilitate
installation guide removal. The camshaft
must be rotated so that the installation guide
faces up toward the cylinder block pan rail.
The crankshaft must be rotated so the No. 6
connecting rod journal faces down toward
the cylinder block top deck (piston at TDC).
9. Remove the installation guide tool J 41682.

Figure 263 — Camshaft Core Plug Installation

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Camshaft Idler Gear Installation 264

[213 DE]
Before installing the idler gear/hub assembly,
determine which is the top mounting hole on the
hub.

The idler gear is held in place by a flanged hub

mounted to the cylinder block by three bolts.
Although the bolt-mounting pattern may appear
symmetrical, it is not. The non-symmetrical
mounting pattern ensures that oil feed passages
in the hub will be properly aligned with the oil feed
passage in the cylinder block, which lubricates
the idler gear hub bushing.

To aid in aligning the hub to the mounting holes in

the cylinder block, at the 12-o’clock position
(engine upright), the hub mounting bolt hole is
identified by the word “UP” steel-stamped just
below the mounting hole.
1. With the engine in an upright position and
the hub correctly aligned with the mounting
bolt holes, place idler hub against the block
and verify good mounting hole alignment
(Figure 264).
Figure 264 — Hub Correctly Positioned on Block

2. Align the timing marks. First look at the

timing marks on both the camshaft and
crankshaft gears. Note that two teeth are
marked (side by side) on each gear. These
two timing marks must align with the single
timing marks on the idler gear. When
properly installed, the two single timing
marks on the idler gear will fall between the
two timing marks on the camshaft and
crankshaft gears. To attain correct
alignment, rotate the crankshaft and
camshaft gears until the camshaft timing
marks are in approximately the
3:30 position, and the crankshaft gear timing
marks are in approximately the 1 o’clock
position (with engine in the upright position
and viewed from the front).

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Auxiliary Shaft Installation
[212 CV]
There are 45 gear teeth on the crankshaft gear,
90 teeth on the camshaft gear and 48 on the idler
gear. Because the idler gear has 3 more teeth Before installing the auxiliary shaft in the engine,
than the crankshaft gear, the timing marks align ensure that the shaft is clean, undamaged and
only once every 16 revolutions of the crankshaft. well-lubricated with clean engine oil. Refer to the
This is called a “hunting tooth” system. Auxiliary Shaft and Camshaft Bench Procedures
in the REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS section.
3. Slide the idler gear onto the hub assembly Refer to Figure 266.
with timing marks facing out.
4. Position the idler gear timing marks so they
align (Figure 265) with the crankshaft and
camshaft gear timing marks. Then slide the Replace the auxiliary shaft as an assembly only.
idler gear/hub assembly into position on the Do not try to dismantle or rework the shaft since
cylinder block. doing so may result in damage to the engine.
265

1. Lubricate the front auxiliary shaft journal (2),

rear auxiliary shaft journal (4) and shaft
bearings (in cylinder block) with clean
engine oil.
266

Figure 265 — Timing Marks Properly Aligned

5. Oil the bolts with clean engine oil. Start the

bolts a few turns.
6. Tap the hub portion of the assembly with a
brass hammer to seat the components. Figure 266 — Auxiliary Shaft Installation

7. Tighten the bolts evenly to specification. Do 1. Rear Bearing 4. Auxiliary Shaft Rear
not use an impact wrench or other air tool to 2. Auxiliary Shaft Front Journal
tighten bolts. Journal 5. Oil Pump Drive Gear
3. Shaft

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2. Install shaft (3) into the rear of the auxiliary Oil Pump Installation
shaft housing. Use care when aligning the
shaft through the rear bearing (1). [219 MU]
Refer to Figure 267.
Make sure the oil pump is in satisfactory condition
3. Install the thrust washer (4) and secure it in as covered under Lubrication System
position with the patch-lock capscrews (3) Components Bench Procedures in the REPAIR
and hardened washers. INSTRUCTIONS section.
4. Tighten the thrust washer retaining patch-
lock capscrews to the specified torque,
15 lb-ft (20 N•m), using torque wrench
J 24406, or equivalent. Because of differences in the E-Tech™ and E7
5. Install the auxiliary shaft gear (2) on the gear set helixes, it is important that the correct
shaft splines (5). component/parts are installed.
r An improper drive gear on the oil pump will
prevent oil pump installation, assuming a
correct gear is on the auxiliary shaft.
The auxiliary shaft and nut threads must be clean r If an oil pump and an auxiliary shaft
and dry before assembly. Clean the threads assembly were replaced, two improper
thoroughly with Brakleen® or electrical contact gears could be installed, and engine failure
cleaner. Apply Loctite® 271 or 277 to the threads would result.
and install the nut.
r In replacing any of these critical parts,
6. Install the auxiliary shaft nut (1) and tighten always refer to part number information in
to the specified torque, 300 lb-ft (407 N•m), the MACK Parts System to ensure the
using torque wrench J 23775-01, or correct component/part is being used.
equivalent.
267 1. Position the oil pump (1) on the cylinder
block (3). Refer to Figure 268.
2. Secure the pump in position using the
mounting capscrews (2). Tighten the
mounting capscrews to the specified torque,
40 lb-ft (54 N•m), using torque wrench
J 24407, or equivalent.

Apply Loctite® 271 to all capscrews used to install

the oil pump.

Figure 267 — Auxiliary Shaft Gear Installation

1. Nut 4. Thrust Washer

2. Auxiliary Shaft Gear 5. Shaft Splines
3. Capscrew

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268

Figure 268 — Oil Pump Installation

1. Lubrication Oil Pump 3. Cylinder Block

2. Mounting Capscrews

Front Cover Installation

[211 RP]
After the oil pump has been installed, check the
backlash between the auxiliary shaft gear and the
oil pump driven gear. With the crankshaft, camshaft and auxiliary shaft
in place, install the front cover.
3. Check the auxiliary shaft gear to oil pump 1. Apply a light coat of Silastic® to the timing
driven gear backlash, 0.0072–0.0138 inch cover mounting surface.
(0.1829–0.3505 mm), using a thickness 2. Position the timing cover on the cylinder
gauge between the auxiliary shaft gear and block mounting surface.
the oil pump driven gear.
3. Secure the timing cover to the cylinder block
using the mounting capscrews. Torque the
capscrews to 40 lb-ft (54 N•m), using torque
wrench J 24407, or equivalent.
4. Position the front pedestal mount on the
timing cover and secure with the mounting
hardware. Torque the pedestal mounting
capscrews to 70 lb-ft (95 N•m), using torque
wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

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Crankshaft Front Seal Installation 269

[211 JB]

SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED

r Crankshaft Front Seal Installer J 37715-A
r Crankshaft Front Seal Adapter J 37715-2

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

Installation depth of the E-Tech™ engine front

crankshaft seal, relative to the front crankshaft
stem, is controlled by the installation tool adapter.
Ensure that the correct adapter, J 37715-2, is
used.

Refer to Figure 269.

1. Position the lip-type seal on the seal installer
(J 37715-2 adapter in combination with
J 37715-A), with the solid portion of the seal
outward (toward the tool).
2. Position the tool over hub and into the seal
opening. Figure 269 — Crankshaft Front Seal Installation

1. Front Cover Seal 3. Front Cover

2. Seal Installer J 37715-A

3. Insert the hub capscrew into the hole in the

seal installation tool and draw the seal in
until the tool bottoms out on the face of the
crankshaft.
4. Remove the tool and check the seal to
ensure it has been evenly installed.

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Crankshaft Hub Installation 270

[212 RH]

INSPECTION
Inspect the crankshaft hub for scoring and
condition of the flange and threaded holes.

Replace the hub if the removed seal shows signs

of wear. Mack Trucks, Inc. does not recommend
the use of a service sleeve to repair the
crankshaft hub when there is hub damage. When
there is damage to the hub, replace it.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Refer to Figure 270.
Figure 270 — Crankshaft Hub/Vibration Damper
1. Using a suitable grease-type lubricant, coat
the working surface of the seal in
1. Crankshaft 5. Damper/Puller
preparation for the crankshaft hub 2. Crankshaft Hub Capscrews and Washers
installation. 3. Vibration Damper 6. Hub Capscrew
4. Pulley

Teflon®-type seals do not require greasing the Vibration Damper Installation

working surface of the seal.
[212 RB]
2. Heat the hub to approximately 250°F
(121°C) prior to installation. INSPECTION
3. Using heat-resistant gloves, position the hub
on the crankshaft.

When removing or handling the vibration damper,

be careful not to damage the housing. Any dents
While the crankshaft has a keyway slot, the in the outer housing may render the damper
crankshaft hub does not. For the E-Tech™ ineffective and result in cracks in the crankshaft.
engine, timing is set in relation to the flywheel The vibration damper cannot be repaired.
position and not the crankshaft hub, eliminating
the need for a hub key and precise alignment.
Inspect the vibration damper for dents, nicks or
fluid leaks in the outer housing. If any of the
4. In a quick, even motion, push the hub onto above are evident, the vibration damper must be
the crankshaft. replaced. Due to the close clearances between
5. Install the hub washer and capscrew. the damper housing and its internal flywheel,
Tighten the capscrew to the specified dents or nicks may cause contact between the
torque, 330 lb-ft (447 N•m), using torque two components. Fluid loss will deteriorate the
wrench J 23775-01, or equivalent. dampening effect of the damper.

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INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Position the vibration damper and drive
pulley on the crankshaft hub. Through late August 1999, the isolated oil pan
2. Install the six mounting capscrews. Tighten gasket mounting arrangement used shoulder
the capscrews to the specified torque, studs to secure the oil pan to the front timing
45 lb-ft (61 N•m). cover, flywheel housing and at certain locations
along the oil pan sides. Beginning approximately
late August 1999, the shoulder studs at the timing
Oil Pan Installation cover and flywheel housing were changed to
shoulder capscrews (part No. 421GC289M), and,
[211 NB] approximately fourth quarter 1999, the shoulder
studs with a separate nut used at locations on the
sides of the oil pan were changed to a one-piece
GENERAL INFORMATION integral hex-head shoulder stud assembly
With the isolating oil pan gasket arrangement, (part No. 616GC39M3).
8-mm mounting holes are tapped into the cylinder Prior to the fourth quarter 1999 introduction of the
block, front cover and flywheel housing. one-piece integral hex-head shoulder stud
Figure 271 shows the production arrangement. assembly, flat washers (part No. 37AX68) were
added to the shoulder studs (part No.
616GC239M) to compensate for the gap between
the nut and the shoulder stud and to ensure
sufficient clamp load to the gasket. This change
went into effect February 22, 1999, beginning
with engine serial No. 9C2735.
271

Figure 271 — Oil Pan Stud Identification

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The isolating oil pan gasket contains 12 integral 4. In one motion, firmly press down on the
locating/retaining cones which lock into holes gasket with one hand while carefully pulling
drilled through the oil pan rails, and two large the rubber cone through the hole with the
rectangular tabs located directly across from other hand until seated (Figure 273).
each other on the inner perimeter of the gasket. Continue this procedure for the remaining
The cones keep the gasket properly located locating cones.
during oil pan installation, and the rectangular 273

tabs serve as a starting point for locating the

gasket on the oil pan rail.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Clean any oil from the cylinder block
mounting surface and the oil pan rail. The oil
pan must be installed dry.

Oil on the surface of the gasket or the rails of the

cylinder block and oil pan during the oil pan
installation can cause the gasket to bulge out
between any two bolts, particularly those at the
Figure 273 — Locating Cone Installation
mid-section corners. This condition may not occur
immediately, but can do so at any time after
5. Visually check the underside of the pan rail
installation. To avoid this occurrence, wipe any oil
to ensure that all locating cones are properly
from the inner walls of the cylinder block
seated.
crankcase and then clean the rails of the cylinder
block and oil pan with a suitable non-flammable
solvent. Dry the cleaned surfaces completely.
During removal of the isolating oil pan from the
2. Position the isolating oil pan gasket on the
engine, the studs may have backed out while
oil pan rails with the ribbed side facing up.
loosening the stud nuts. Be sure they are fully
3. Beginning at the center of the pan at one of seated prior to installing the oil pan.
the rectangular tabs, align the rubber
locating cones with corresponding holes in 6. When installing the oil pan on the engine,
the pan rails (Figure 272). center the pan before tightening the
272
fasteners so that the edges of the metal
isolator washers do not touch the pan. Refer
to Figure 274.

On engines manufactured prior to fourth quarter

1999 (having a separate nut), install the flat
washer (part No. 37AX68) with the shoulder
studs. These flat washers are not necessary, and
should not be used with the one-piece integral
hex-head shoulder studs.

Figure 272 — Locating Cone Alignment

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
274
Cylinder Head Installation
[213 EV]
Ensure that the cylinder heads are in acceptable
condition. Refer to the cylinder head inspection
procedures under Cylinder Head Reconditioning
in the REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS section.

All MACK head gaskets are precoated and do not

require any type of additional sealing compound.

Refer to Figure 275.

1. Place the head gaskets in position on the
locating pins in the cylinder block deck.
2. Place a fire ring carefully in position on top of
each cylinder sleeve.

Check that the design of the fire ring used is the

correct match for the cylinder sleeves installed.

Figure 274 — Checking Clearance 3. Position the partially assembled cylinder

heads (valves, nozzle holder sleeves, core/
1. Cylinder Block 3. Rubber Gasket pipe plugs installed) on the cylinder block.
2. Oil Pan Locate the heads into the guide pins in the
cylinder block.

Two of the head mounting capscrews have

threaded holes drilled in the heads for bracket-
mounting purposes. The drilled capscrews must
be located in the correct positions for proper
bracket installation.

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275

Figure 275 — Cylinder Head Gasket and Fire Ring Positioning

1. Cylinder Head 4. Guide Pins

2. Fire Rings 5. Cylinder Block
3. Gasket

4. Check the condition of the capscrews and 6. Check the alignment of the cylinder heads
lubricate the capscrew heads (underside), by placing a straightedge against the
threads and washers with clean engine oil. exhaust manifold mounting surfaces
(Figure 276). Using a feeler gauge, measure
any gaps between the straightedge and
manifold mounting surfaces. The heads
Do not install painted capscrews at locations that should be in alignment within 0.005 inch
are under the valve cover. (0.127 mm). If not, reposition the heads to
achieve the specified alignment.
5. Insert the capscrews in the mounting holes.
Tighten all cylinder head capscrews finger-
tight. (There are two cylinder head capscrew
lengths: 198.0 mm and 225.0 mm.)

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276

Figure 276 — Cylinder Head Alignment

1. Cylinder Heads 3. Straightedge

2. Cylinder Block

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7. Oil all cylinder head capscrew bosses, a. Tighten all capscrews in sequence to
capscrew threads and washers with engine 50 lb-ft (68 N•m).
oil prior to assembly. Do not oil threads in
b. Tighten all capscrews in sequence to
cylinder block. Using torque wrench
125 lb-ft (170 N•m).
J 24407, or equivalent, tighten all cylinder
head mounting capscrews to specification in c. Tighten all capscrews in sequence to
three stages as listed below. Refer to the final specified torque value of
Figure 277 for the tightening sequence. 205 lb-ft (278 N•m).
277

Figure 277 — Head Bolt Torque Sequence Chart

Exhaust Manifold Installation 278

[214 EG]

MANIFOLD STUD INSTALLATION

Apply Loctite® 272 to the cylinder head
engagement threads of all exhaust studs, prior to
installation.

Lower exhaust stud holes intersect with the push

rod holes; upper exhaust holes may intersect as
well. This requires that all exhaust studs be
sealed at installation to prevent oil leakage.
On some E-Tech™ engines, the lower exhaust
manifold-to-cylinder head stud hole may be
drilled deep enough to allow the stud to enter the
push rod bore. In these instances, the 20 lb-ft
(27 N•m) of torque may not be reached until the
stud contacts the push rod. In all cases, a stud
protrusion of 1.75 inch (44.45 mm) must be
maintained. Refer to Figure 278.

Figure 278 — Exhaust Stud Protrusion

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
MANIFOLD INSTALLATION 3. Position the exhaust manifold on the
mounting studs and secure with nuts.
Refer to Figure 279.
Tighten the nuts to the specified torque:
1. Install the 12 studs in position on the
r 55 lb-ft (75 N•m) for 10-mm nuts
cylinder head.
r 65 lb-ft (88 N•m) for 12-mm nuts
2. Position six manifold gaskets on the studs. 279

Exhaust manifold nuts must be installed dry (no

lubrication).

Figure 279 — Typical Exhaust Manifold Installation

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Nozzle Holder Assembly Installation
[222 KG]
Care must be taken with either method of
installation to NOT misposition the gasket. If mis-
GENERAL INFORMATION positioned, the washer may be damaged and
result in severe combustion leakage.
The nozzle holder is positioned vertically in the
cylinder head and centered in the cylinder 280

between the four valves. The nozzle fuel inlet

tube is inserted through the side of the cylinder
head and the tapered end of the inlet tube seals
the area between the tube and the nozzle holder.
The tube is secured in position with a sleeve nut.

SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED

r Injection Nozzle Puller J 37093

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the washer-type gasket in place on
the bottom of the nozzle, using a small dab
of grease to hold it in place.
Figure 280 — Nozzle Holder Gasket Installation

1. Washer 2. Nozzle
An alternate method is to drop the washer in the
nozzle holder sleeve bore as shown in 2. Lubricate the surface of the nozzle holder
Figure 280. Make sure the washer-type gasket is with clean engine oil and install the two
centered and lying flat in the bottom of the nozzle O-rings on the holder.
holder sleeve bore.
3. Thread injection nozzle puller J 37093 into
the top of nozzle holder as shown in
Figure 281.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
281 282

Figure 282 — Nozzle Holder Alignment

1. Cylinder Head 3. Locator Pin and Sleeve

2. Nozzle Holder Notch Must Align.

5. After ensuring that the nozzle holder locator

pin is properly aligned with the alignment
notch in the nozzle holder sleeve, push
downward on the handle of the installation
tool driving the nozzle holder into position.
Refer to Figure 283.
283

Figure 281 — Puller Application

1. Nozzle Holder Puller 2. Nozzle Holder

J 37093

4. Insert the nozzle holder in the nozzle holder

sleeve. Be sure to align the locator pin in the
nozzle holder with the notch in the nozzle
holder sleeve to ensure inlet tube alignment.
Refer to Figure 282.

Figure 283 — Nozzle Holder Installation

6. Remove the tool from the nozzle holder and

insert the gauge block on the end of the tool
handle.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
7. Insert the gauge block into the nozzle holder 8. Lubricate the threads of the retaining plug
sleeve bore. The gauge block should be and install it as shown in Figure 285. Tighten
flush with the top surface of the cylinder the plug to the specified torque, 45 lb-ft
head nozzle sleeve bore. Refer to (61 N•m), using torque wrench J 24407, or
Figure 284. equivalent.
285
r If the gauge block is below the surface,
it may indicate that the gasket was
omitted.
r If the gauge block is too high, it may
indicate that there are two gaskets
installed under the nozzle holder, or the
nozzle holder has not been fully
inserted.
r If a gauge block is not available,
measure the distance from the top
surface of the cylinder head sleeve
bore to the top of the nozzle holder. The
nominal measurement should be
0.564 inch (14.326 mm).
284
Figure 285 — Retaining Plug Installation

Push Rod Installation

[213 LH]
Check the condition of the push rods before
installing them. Replace any rods that have loose
ends, are bent, or show signs of excessive wear.

Used push rods have established wear patterns.

Push rods being returned to service should be
installed in the same position from which they
were removed.
When installing new push rods, make sure that
the correct replacement rods are used. There are
differences in the rods used for engines with or
without an engine brake.

1. Apply lubricating oil to the spherical end of

the push rod and insert it into the respective
lifter opening. Ensure that it has engaged
the lifter by lifting it slightly. If the lifter has
been properly contacted, some resistance
will be felt in the rod as the lifter is raised.
Figure 284 — Nozzle Holder Installation Check
2. Repeat step 1 until all 12 push rods are in
1. Nozzle Holder Puller 2. Gauge Block position.
J 37093

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Valve Yoke Installation 287

[213 NV]
(Non-Brake and J-Tech™ Brake
Equipped)
There are two exhaust valves and two inlet valves
for each cylinder. Each rocker arm, in conjunction
with the valve yoke, operates both valves
together as a set (exhaust or inlet). The E-Tech™
engine yokes are no longer identified with a
raised letter “E” cast into the surface. E-Tech™
yokes must now be identified by shape only. Two
ways of identifying shape are by looking at the
nose end of the valve yoke. The E-Tech™ yoke
has the nose end of the slipper pad area ground
flat as shown in Figure 28.
286

Figure 287 — Valve Yoke Side View

Do not interchange yokes. If an E-Tech™ valve

yoke is used on an E7 engine, the valve keepers
will dislodge and cause a dropped valve, resulting
in severe engine damage. If an E7 valve yoke is
used on a J-Tech™ equipped E-Tech™ engine,
the yoke will disengage from the valve stem tip
during engine brake operation.

Figure 286 — E-Tech™, E6, E7 and E9 Valve Yokes

(Top View)

The second method of identifying the E-Tech™ Used yokes have established wear patterns.
valve yoke is by viewing the yoke from the side, Yokes being returned to service should be
the top surface of the adjusting screw end will installed in the same position from which they
appear on the same plane as the bottom surface were removed.
of the “button-head.” On the E6, E7 and E9 valve
yoke, the top surface of the adjusting screw area
is 0.145″ below the bottom surface of the “button- Refer to Figure 288. The valve yoke installation
head.” Refer to Figure 287 for an illustration of procedure for both non-brake and brake-
these differences. equipped engines follows.
1. Lubricate the yoke guide pins (6) (if
equipped) with clean engine oil.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
288
2. Place the valve yokes (4) on the yoke guide
pins from which they were removed for both
inlet and exhaust (early production) or
exhaust only (engine serial No. 0D0120 or
later). Current-production engines use a
pinless yoke at the inlet positions. The
pinless yokes are installed over two inlet
valves with the notch and the elongated hole
facing away from the rocker arm as shown in
Figure 289.

When installing pinless yokes, the end of the yoke

with the two notches must face away from the
Figure 288 — Valve Yoke valve rocker shaft. If the yoke is installed
incorrectly, it will contact the rocker arm. See
1. Rocker Arm 4. Valve Yoke Figure 289.
2. Yoke Adjusting Screw 5. Valve Stem
3. Jam Nut 6. Yoke Guide Pin 289

Figure 289 — Proper Assembly of the Pinless Valve Yoke

3. Slightly rock the yokes from side-to-side to Rocker Arm and Engine Brake
be sure they are seated on the valve stems.
Installation
[213 LP]
The exhaust valve yokes on engines equipped
The valve rocker arm assemblies are nearly
with the J-Tech™ engine brake use an actuator
identical on non-brake and brake-equipped
pin assembly, part No. 421GC41M, in place of the
engines. There are two differences, however, on
standard yoke adjusting screw. Ensure that the
engines equipped with the J-Tech™ engine
yokes with actuator pin assemblies are in position
brake:
over the exhaust valves.
r Revised adjusting screws with spherical jam
nuts replace the standard adjusting screws
and jam nuts on the exhaust rocker arms.
r An oil supply screw replaces the locating
screw and lock washer on the rocker arm
mounting bracket.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
INSTALLATION (NON-BRAKE EQUIPPED INSTALLATION (J-TECH™ BRAKE-EQUIPPED
ENGINES) ENGINES)
1. Make sure the locating screw and lock Refer to Figure 291.
washer are in position on the rocker arm
1. Make sure the oil supply screw is in position
mounting bracket for each cylinder head.
on the rocker arm mounting bracket for each
2. Make sure that all 12 push rods are properly cylinder head and tightened to specification,
seated in the respective lifter sockets. 5 lb-ft (6.8 N•m).
3. Position the rocker arm assemblies on the 2. Make sure that all 12 push rods are properly
cylinder heads. seated in the respective lifter sockets.
4. Ensure that the ball end of the rocker arm 3. Position the rocker arm assemblies on the
adjusting screws (inlet and exhaust) are in cylinder heads.
position in the push rod sockets, and line up
4. Ensure that the ball end of the rocker arm
the rocker bracket mounting holes with the
adjusting screws are in position in the push
holes in the cylinder head. Be careful not to
rod sockets, and line up the rocker bracket
disengage any of the push rods from the
mounting holes with the holes in the cylinder
lifters.
head. Be careful not to disengage any of the
push rods from the lifters.

Make sure that adjusting screws are retracted

upward in the rocker arms. If extended far below
Make sure that adjusting screws (inlet and
the rocker arm, the push rods can be bent when
exhaust) are fully retracted upward in the rocker
tightening the rocker arm assembly brackets.
arms. If extended far below the rocker arm, the
push rods can be bent when tightening the rocker
5. Lubricate the threads of the rocker arm arm assembly brackets.
mounting capscrews with clean engine oil.
Install the capscrews and tighten to the
5. Loosen the three slave piston adjusting
specified torque, 40 lb-ft (54 N•m), using
screw jam nuts on each brake assembly and
torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent. Refer
back out the adjusting screws so that the
to Figure 290.
slave pistons are fully retracted into the
6. Adjust the valve lash to the specified housings.
settings. Refer to Valve Yoke and Valve Lash
6. Carefully place each housing on the
Adjustments in the ENGINE SETUP AND
appropriate rocker arm shaft assembly so
ADJUSTMENTS section.
290 the oil supply screw engages the locating
hole in the brake housing.
7. Lubricate the threads of the brake housing
mounting bolts with clean engine oil and
install the bolts in the housing mounting bolt
holes. Ensure that the correct mounting
bolts are used:
Bolt P/N 416GC22M — use with housing
P/N 757GB58.
Bolt P/N 421GC314M — use with housing
P/Ns 757GB58A and 757GB58B.

Figure 290 — Valve Rocker Arm Installation

1. Rocker Arm Mounting Brackets

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
8. Starting with the center pair of mounting 9. After each brake housing is seated on the
bolts, tighten all six bolts on each housing cylinder head, tighten the mounting bolts to
just enough to seat the housing on the specification, 45 lb-ft (61 N•m).
rocker shaft brackets. Make sure the brake
10. Adjust the valve lash to the specified
housings come down level to avoid possible
settings. Refer to Valve Yoke, Valve Lash
damage to the rocker shaft brackets. Also,
and Slave Piston Adjustments in the
make sure that all of the push rods remain
ENGINE SETUP AND ADJUSTMENTS
properly engaged at both ends.
section.
291

Figure 291 — Rocker Arm Shaft and J-Tech™ Engine Brake Components

1. Valve Cover 8. Exhaust Valve Yokes

2. Spacer 9. Actuator Pin Assembly
3. Long Capscrew 10. Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly
4. Spherical Jam Nut 11. Oil Supply Screw (New Style Design with Integral Check
5. Exhaust Adjusting Screw Valve)*
6. Standard Adjusting Screw And Jam Nut (Inlet Valves) 12. Slave Piston Adjusting Screw
7. Cylinder Head 13. Engine Brake Assembly

* A new oil supply screw assembly has been released for the J-Tech™ engine brake. This new screw incorporates an oil supply
check valve, eliminating the need for the oil supply check valve components in the engine brake housing.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Valve Cover and Spacer Installation 292

[213 JB]

GENERAL INFORMATION

The valve cover (and spacer, if equipped with an

engine brake) requires a strip-type seal valve
cover gasket, 51 inches (130 cm) in length.
Sealing compounds are not necessary.

Early-production engines (before October 1998)

were built with non-isolating cover-mounting
hardware. Valve covers for this mounting
arrangement had cutouts at three corners of the
cover flange. October 1998 and later-production
engines are built with isolating-type valve cover
mounting hardware to reduce noise. The valve
covers on these later-production engines have
only one cutout in the flange.

INSTALLATION
Refer back to Figure 292.
Figure 292 — Gasket Installation

1. Valve Cover 3. Seal Groove

2. Seal Strip
Installation procedures for the spacer and valve
cover seal are identical.
2. Position the spacers on the cylinder heads.
1. Install a seal strip (2) in the seal grooves (3) 3. Connect the actuator wire to the actuator.
of the spacers. 4. Install a seal strip in the valve cover seal
a. Thoroughly clean the gasket contact groove of the valve covers.
surface. a. Thoroughly clean the gasket contact
b. Install one end of the spacer gasket surface.
into the seal groove (inboard side) b. Install one end of the valve cover
approximately 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) from gasket into the seal groove (inboard
the end of the groove. side) approximately 1/4 inch (6.4 mm)
c. Guide the seal strip into the groove from the end of the groove.
around the circumference of the c. Guide the seal strip into the groove
spacer. Complete the installation with around the circumference of the valve
an overlap at the starting point, cover. Complete the installation with an
approximately 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) from overlap at the starting point,
the end of the groove. approximately 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) from
the end of the groove.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
5. Position the valve covers (1) on the cylinder Oil Fill Tube Installation
heads or on the spacers (4), if so equipped,
as shown in Figure 293. 1. Add a bead of RTV sealant on the mounting
flange around the fill tube opening.
6. Lubricate the threads of the capscrews (2)
and secure the valve covers with the 2. Position the fill tube on the cylinder block
lubricated capscrews. Tighten the and install the capscrews.
capscrews to the specified torque, 16 lb-ft 3. Tighten the capscrews to specification,
(22 N•m). 15 lb-ft (20 N•m).
293

Figure 293 — Valve Cover Installation

1. Valve Cover 3. Actuator

2. Capscrew 4. Spacer

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Engine ECU/Cooling Plate Refer to Figure 294.
Installation 1. Install the four mounting studs in the cylinder
block.
[230 EA] 2. Install the four isolating washers on the
(Right-Side Mounted Assembly) studs and install the cooling plate.
3. Position the EECU on the cooling plate, and
install the isolating washers and fasteners.
Tighten fasteners to specification.
294
The following procedure applies for an EECU
with cooling plate mounted on the right side of the
engine. The procedure for the left-side mounted
unit is covered later in this section.

Figure 294 — Engine ECU/Cooling Plate Installation (Right-Side Mounted Unit)

1. Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) 4. Cylinder Block

2. EECU Cooling Plate 5. Mounting Studs
3. Coolant Fitting 6. Isolating Washers

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Air Compressor Installation 1. Install a new gasket on the air compressor
mounting flange.
[261 CK] 2. Check to ensure that the lubrication oil
supply tube (2) is in place and position the
Refer to Figure 295. air compressor (1) on the mounting flange.

If the compressor drive coupling has been If the oil supply tube is lost, the air compressor
removed or a replacement compressor is being will fail from lack of oil.
installed, air compressor coupling holder tool
J 41071 will be required to hold the compressor 3. Install the three mounting capscrews (5) and
shaft while the coupling nut is being torqued. tighten to the specified torque, 70 lb-ft
Torque coupling nut to 60 lb-ft (81 N•m). Do not (95 N•m), using torque wrench J 24407, or
use air impact wrench (air gun), use an equivalent.
accurately calibrated torque wrench such as
J 24406, or equivalent. 4. Reconnect the coolant lines to the air
compressor cylinder head.
295

Figure 295 — Air Compressor Installation

1. Air Compressor 4. Oil Drain Openings

2. Oil Supply Tube 5. Capscrew
3. Auxiliary Shaft

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Electronic Unit Pump Installation 296

[221 GP]

TAPPET INSTALLATION
1. Clean the cylinder block at the mounting
surface and bore, if required.

Use only a soft rag and solvent to clean the

cylinder block. Minor fretting at the EUP mounting
surface is acceptable.
Figure 296 — Unit Pump Installation
2. Generously lubricate the roller tappet with
clean engine oil and carefully install it into 3. Reinstall the EUP screws and tighten evenly
the bore, pushing it down until it contacts the to draw the EUP into the cylinder block
camshaft lobe. The slot in the roller tappet (Figure 297). Tighten the screws to the
MUST be oriented outward to align with the specified torque, 42 lb-ft (57 N•m).
pin in the bore. Once installed, the roller 297

tappet should slide freely in the bore.

The tappet guide pins in the EUP bores are

factory-installed in all cylinder blocks and should
not be removed.

PUMP INSTALLATION
1. Install new O-rings on each of the EUP
assemblies.
2. Generously lubricate the EUP O-rings with
clean engine oil and install the No. 1 EUP Figure 297 — Tightening Unit Pump Fasteners
into the cylinder block (Figure 296).
4. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to install the five
remaining EUP assemblies.

Minimize oil above the top O-ring to avoid

weepage of excess oil (trapped above the top
O-ring) onto the cylinder block. If an EUP has been replaced with a new unit, the
new unit must be calibrated as described under
Engine Setup and Adjustments in the REPAIR
INSTRUCTIONS section.
To avoid O-ring damage, the cam lobe must be
positioned with the base circle up prior to
installation of each EUP. Do not use the starter to
rotate the engine; instead, use the flywheel
barring tool.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Engine Wiring Harness Installation 3. Connect the line (1) at the No. 1 unit pump.
Tighten the clamping screw and sleeve nuts
1. Position the wiring harness on the engine to the specified torque, using torque wrench
and secure it with the attaching hardware. J 24407, or equivalent.
2. Connect the harness at each of the EUP r Line clamping screw at cylinder head:
terminals. 35 lb-ft (47 N•m)
3. Connect the harness at the EECU. Make r Line nut at cylinder head clamping
sure the locking tabs are in place. screw: 25 lb-ft (34 N•m)
4. Connect the harness to any sensors now r Line nut at EUP: 25 lb-ft (34 N•m)
installed or as reassembly progresses.

Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Assembly

An open-ended “crow’s foot” adapter is required
Installation with the torque wrench for installation of nozzle
fuel inlet tube assemblies. Avoid twisting the lines
[222 KD] when tightening the sleeve nuts.

Refer to Figure 298. 4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 for the five

1. Lubricate the nozzle inlet tube clamping remaining fuel nozzle inlet tube assemblies.
298
screw threads for each assembly before
installing.
2. Install the fuel nozzle inlet tube assembly for
the No. 1 cylinder into the cylinder head until
light contact is made with the nozzle holder.
Lightly tighten the clamping screw and then
lightly tighten the fuel inlet tube sleeve nut
(2).

The fuel nozzle inlet tube assemblies are

identical for all six cylinders.

Figure 298 — Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Assembly

Installation

1. EUP Sleeve Nut 2. Fuel Inlet Tube Clamping

Screw and Sleeve Nut

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Turbocharger Installation 8. If the clamp plates or V-bands are loosened
for angular orientation of the compressor
[214 SC] cover or turbine housing, ensure that the
mating flanges are tightly seated and that
(Includes Pre-Lubing Procedures) the fasteners are snug but will still allow
cover orientation.
Refer to Figure 299. Complete the orientation of the cover and
1. Inspect the intake and exhaust systems housing before making any rigid connections
leading to and from the turbocharger to to the compressor inlet or to the turbine
ensure absence of foreign material, outlet. Tighten the clamp plate capscrews
including burrs and loose lining fragments. (used on Schwitzer model S300
turbocharger only) to the specified torque,
140 lb-in (16 N•m), if equipped, and V-band
retaining nuts, 90 lb-in (10 N•m), using
torque wrench J 5853-C, or equivalent. Then
A thorough inspection is required as even small
make certain that all ducting aligns closely
particles can cause severe rotor damage if
with the turbocharger. This minimizes
inducted during high-speed operation.
external stresses acting on the unit.
2. Use new and approved gaskets at the 9. Before connecting the drain hose, crank the
various air, oil and exhaust connections to engine without firing until a steady stream of
the turbocharger. Avoid the use of sealing or oil flows from the drain port.
jointing compounds at all flanged 10. Install the lubrication drain tube (4) and
connections. tighten the capscrews (3) to the specified
3. Use a high-temperature, anti-seize torque, 15 lb-ft (20 N•m), using torque
compound (such as Fel Pro C5A) on all wrench J 24406, or equivalent.
threaded fasteners connected to the 11. Install the clamp securing the lubrication
turbocharger. drain tube to the oil fill tube.
4. Position the turbocharger (1) over the 12. Operate the engine at low idle for at least
mounting studs on the exhaust manifold. three minutes after completing the
5. Install the four mounting nuts (5) and tighten installation of the turbocharger.
to the specified torque, 40 lb-ft (54 N•m),
using torque wrench J 24406, or equivalent.
6. Fill the oil inlet port to overflowing with clean
engine oil before connecting the oil feed
hose to the turbocharger.
7. Install the lubrication feed hose (2).

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
299
1. Position a gasket on the water pump
mounting flange.
2. Position the pump on the cylinder block and
install the three mounting capscrews (3).
3. Install the refrigerant compressor support
bracket, if required, on the front of the
cylinder head with the appropriate mounting
hardware. (Insert a spacer if the refrigerant
compressor support bracket and fan ring
arrangement are not used.)
300

Figure 299 — Turbocharger Installation

1. Turbocharger 4. Lubrication Drain Tube

2. Lubrication Supply Hose 5. Mounting Nut
3. Capscrew

Water Pump Installation

[215 SW]
Refer to Figure 300.
Figure 300 — Water Pump Installation

1. Air Compressor Line 3. Capscrew

2. Water Pump
The water pump-to-housing mounting capscrews
should not be lubricated before installation.
Instead, apply thread sealing compound to all
water pump-to-water pump housing capscrews.
Also apply thread sealing compound to the water
pump housing (pump outlet) to cylinder block
capscrews.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Mounting 2. Screw the spuds into the filter adapter until
they protrude 0.703 inch (17.856 mm) when
Bracket Installation measured from the bottom of the spud to the
sealing surface of the oil filter head
[215 DW and 219 EP] assembly. To ensure that the spuds are
secure in the adapter housing, they may be
PLATE-TYPE OIL COOLER AND OIL FILTER “staked” by using a small punch to make a
MOUNTING BRACKET WITH CENTRI-MAX® small indentation between the threads of the
PLUS (INTERNALLY DRAINED) spud and the adapter.
(Current Production) 3. Apply a continuous bead of Loctite® 609 or
271 around the circumference of the fitting
If the engine is equipped with the current- between the second and fifth threads of the
production plate-type oil cooler, the oil cooler and upper end of the Centri-Max® fitting. Install
oil filter mounting bracket assembly cannot be the fitting and tighten to the specified torque,
installed until after the engine has been removed 135–165 lb-ft (183–224 N•m), using torque
from the repair stand. The procedure for this wrench J 24407, or equivalent. DO NOT
configuration is covered as the last item in this stake the Centri-Max® fitting.
301
section.

REMOVABLE BUNDLE-TYPE OIL COOLER

AND OIL FILTER MOUNTING BRACKET WITH
CENTRI-MAX® (EXTERNALLY DRAINED)
(Early Production)

If the engine is equipped with the early production

removable bundle-type oil cooler, the oil cooler
and oil filter mounting bracket assembly can be
installed at this point of reassembly using the
procedures that follow.

ASSEMBLING A NEW OIL FILTER ADAPTER

(IF REPLACED)
A new oil filter mounting bracket does not come
as a complete assembly. If the adapter on an oil
filter mounting bracket is being replaced, the
fittings, nipples, spuds, etc., must be installed
before installing the filter mounting bracket on the
engine. Perform the following procedures before Figure 301 — Oil Filter Adapter Assembly
installing the threaded spuds into the filter
adapter. 1. Adapter Housing 8. Vent Fitting
2. Filter Adapter Fitting 9. Oil Pressure Sensor
Refer to Figure 301. 3. Filter Adapter Fitting 10. Oil Filter Bypass Valve
(Centri-Max®) Plunger Assembly
1. Apply a continuous bead of Loctite® 609 or 4. Pilot Ring Washer 11. Adapter Gasket
271 around the circumference of the spud, 5. Pilot Ring 12. Insert
between the second and fifth threads from 6. Gasket 13. Spacer
the upper end. 7. Gauge Connector 14. Wiring Harness
Elbow Bracket

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6. Place a gasket on the water pump mounting
flange (2).
The oil cooler and oil filter mounting bracket 7. Lubricate the threads of the two mounting
assembly can be installed separately, but capscrews (1) and insert the capscrews to
assembling them together on a bench is easier secure the oil cooler flange (2) to the water
and reduces the possibility of damaging the pump. Tighten the capscrews to the
O-ring seals. specified torque, 40 lb-ft (54 N•m), using
torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.
8. Tighten the oil supply housing capscrews
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE (10) to the torque, 40 lb-ft (54 N•m), using
torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.
Refer to Figure 302.
9. Tighten the clamps (3) to the specified
1. Lubricate the oil cooler supply tube (5) with
torque, 38 lb-in (4.3 N•m).
Vaseline®, or equivalent.
10. Connect the oil hose (8) to the fitting (9).
2. Position the coupling (4) over the lubricated
tube. 11. Coat the threads of the oil sending unit (12)
with sealing compound and install the unit in
3. Place two clamps (3) over the coupling.
the oil filter adapter assembly (13).
4. Place a gasket on the oil supply mounting
flange (11).
5. Position the oil cooler and oil filter mounting
adapter assembly on the engine. Slide the
coupling (4) over the thermostat housing
flange. Lubricate the threads of the
capscrews (10) and insert the capscrews
into the mounting flange. Do not tighten the
capscrews at this time.

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302

Figure 302 — Removable Bundle-Type Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Mounting Bracket Assembly Installation

1. Capscrew 8. Oil Hose

2. Water Pump Mounting Flange 9. Fitting
3. Clamps 10. Capscrew
4. Coupling 11. Oil Supply Mounting Flange
5. Oil Cooler Supply Tube (Water Bypass Tube) 12. Sending Unit
6. Oil Filter/Cooler Assembly 13. Oil Filter Mounting Bracket Assembly
7. Vent Fitting

Coolant Manifold Installation 1. Ensure that the front coolant manifold

section (1) is clean. Position a coolant/air
[215 NK] inlet manifold gasket on the mounting
surface.

INSPECTION 2. Lubricate threads of the capscrews (5) with

clean engine oil and secure the front coolant
Check the coolant manifold sections for manifold section in place with the mounting
restrictions, cracks and flange wear. The manifold capscrews.
cannot be repaired. Replace if any signs of
damage are present.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE Early-production engines use hex-head

capscrews and washers; later-production engines
Refer to Figure 303. use flangehead capscrews.

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3. Place couple (2) in position on the couple 6. Lubricate threads of the mounting
mounting flange. Place two clamps (3) over capscrews (5) and secure the rear manifold
the couple. section with the mounting capscrews.
4. Insert the rear manifold section (4) in the 7. Tighten all mounting capscrews to the
couple. specified torque, 25 lb-ft (34 N•m), using
torque wrench J 24406, or equivalent.
5. Place a gasket between the mounting
surfaces of the rear manifold section and the 8. Ensure that the couple is properly installed
cylinder head. and secure it in position with the clamps.
Tighten the clamps to the specified torque,
38 lb-in (4.3 N•m).
303

Figure 303 — Coolant Manifold and Air Inlet Manifold Installation (Shown with Two-Piece Air Inlet Manifold)

1. Coolant Manifold, Front Section 6. Air Inlet Manifold, Rear Section

2. Couple 7. Inlet Air Temperature Sensor (Sending Unit)
3. Clamp 8. Air Inlet Manifold, Front Section
4. Coolant Manifold, Rear Section 9. Capscrew, 12-Point
5. Capscrew

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Air Inlet Manifold Installation Thermostat, Housing and Seal
[214 HD] Installation
[215 NU, NG & LD]
Refer to Figure 303 and Figure 304.
1. For two-piece manifolds place the front air Refer to Figure 305.
inlet manifold section (8) into position on the 1. When replacing a seal for any reason,
cylinder head and insert the 12-point examine the surface of the thermostat
capscrews (9) and washers. Current sleeve, the bore area and the seal to prevent
production one-piece manifolds are premature failure of the new seal. A sealing
positioned on the cylinder heads with all the lip that has been turned back, cut or
retaining 12-point capscrews inserted. otherwise damaged will leak and must be
2. Torque capscrews to 40 lb-ft (54 N•m), using replaced. The lip faces the front of the
torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent. engine.
3. For two-piece manifolds, place the coupling 2. Remove any surface nicks, burrs, sharp
on the rear of the front air inlet section (8). edges and tool marks from the thermostat
Assemble two clamps on the coupling and sleeve and housing bore area using crocus
install the rear air inlet section (6). cloth.
4. Continue assembling the two-piece manifold 3. Check to see that the replacement seals are
by inserting the 12-point capscrews and free from any contaminants such as chips,
torque to 40 lb-ft (54 N•m), using torque grit, dust or any other debris that would
wrench J 24407, or equivalent. prevent the seal from properly seating in the
thermostat housing.
5. Tighten the clamps on the coupling and
torque to 38 lb-in (4.3 N•m). 4. Press the seal into the housing bore with
304 smooth, uniform pressure, using seal
installation tool J 26637-A and driver handle
J 8092.

Tool J 26637-A is designed to regulate the

thermostat seal installation depth. The shoulder
on the tool bottoms on the thermostat bore of the
housing to prevent the seal from being installed
too far.

Wherever possible, an arbor press should be

used to apply assembly pressure. The use of a
hammer is not recommended since uneven
pressure would be applied directly to seal
surfaces. Precautions should be taken against
cocking the seal throughout the installation
operation. Make sure the seal is not cocked when
Figure 304 — One-Piece Air Inlet Manifold (Current installed.
Production)

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5. Position the thermostat (7) in the housing (5) 7. Position the housing assembly on the
with the jiggle pin or caged ball up. coolant manifold (9) mounting surface.
6. Install a gasket (8) on the housing mounting 8. Secure in position with two lower mounting
surface. capscrews (13).
305

Figure 305 — Thermostat Housing Installation

1. Capscrew 8. Gasket
2. Coolant Conditioner Adapter Assembly (if Equipped) 9. Coolant Manifold
3. Check Valve (if Equipped) 10. Clamps
4. O-Ring 11. Oil Cooler Supply (Bypass) Tube
5. Thermostat Housing 12. Coupling (Hose)
6. Thermostat Seal 13. Capscrew
7. Thermostat 14. Coolant Conditioner Filter Element (if Equipped)

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Coolant Conditioner Installation 306

Refer to Figure 305.

1. Position a check valve assembly (3) in the
coolant conditioner head assembly (2). The
ball end of the check valve must be inserted
first.
2. Position an O-ring (4) in the O-ring recess of
the head assembly.
3. Install the head assembly (2) on the
thermostat housing (5) and secure with
capscrews (1).
4. Tighten the capscrews to the specified
torque, 15 lb-ft (20 N•m), using torque
wrench J 24406, or equivalent.
5. Apply a light film of engine coolant on the
face of the coolant conditioner filter gasket
seal.
6. Install the coolant conditioner filter element
(14). Turn the coolant conditioner filter one
full turn after the gasket contacts base. Use
tool J 24783 to tighten.

Fuel Filter Adapter Assembly

Installation Figure 306 — Fuel Filter Adapter Assembly Installation
with Two-Piece Air Inlet Manifold
[231 PB]
1. Fuel Filter Adapter 5. Primary Filter Fitting
Assembly (Out)
Refer to Figure 306 and Figure 307. 2. Secondary Filter Fitting 6. Primary Filter Fitting (In)
1. Install the fuel filter adapter (1) to the air inlet (Out) 7. Air Inlet Manifold
3. Secondary Filter Fitting 8. Mounting Flange
manifold (7). (In)
2. Install the three capscrews (4) and tighten to 4. Capscrews
the specified torque, 35 lb-ft (48 N•m).
3. Install the three fuel lines to the fittings
(2, 3 and 5) and tighten to the specified
torque, 25 lb-ft (34 N•m).

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307

Figure 307 — Fuel Filter Adapter Installation with One-Piece Inlet Manifold

1. Secondary Filter Fitting (Out) 5. Air Inlet Manifold

2. Secondary Filter Fitting (In) 6. Mounting Bracket
3. Primary Filter Fitting (Out) 7. Primary Filter Fitting (In)
4. Coolant Manifold 8. Fuel Filter Adapter

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Engine ECU Installation Oil Cooler-to-Water Pump Inlet Line
[230 EA] Installation
If the engine is equipped with the plate-type oil
Left-Side Mounted Assembly cooler, install the oil cooler-to-water pump inlet
1. Position the EECU and bracket assembly on line (Figure 309) as follows:
the air inlet manifold and install the isolating 1. Place the inlet line in position on the engine
washers and three mounting capscrews and loosely install the capscrews attaching
(Figure 308). Tighten the capscrews to the line to the water pump.
specification, 15 lb-ft (20 N•m).
2. Install the flexible hose coupling and two
2. Connect the wiring harness to the EECU. clamps between the inlet line and the
308
coolant manifold.
3. Tighten the two capscrews securing the inlet
line to the water pump to specification,
60 lb-ft (81 N•m).
309

Figure 309 — Oil Cooler-to-Water Pump Inlet Line

Installation
Figure 308 — Engine ECU Installation (Left-Side
Mounted Unit) 1. Water Pump 3. Water Pump Inlet Pipe
2. Thermostat By-Pass
Hose Connection
1. Air Inlet Manifold 4. EECU
2. Coolant Manifold 5. Upper Mounting Bolts
3. Lower Mounting Bolts (Two)
(Two) 6. Mounting Stud

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Alternator Installation Removing Engine from Engine
[271 CB] Stand
[200 EA]
Refer to Figure 310.
1. Attach a suitable lifting device to lifting points
1. Install the alternator plate and mounting on the engine.
hardware.
2. Position and attach an engine hoist to the
2. Position the alternator on the plate and lifting device; operate the hoist to place
install the capscrews (2), washers and tension on the lifting device.
mounting nuts.
3. With the lifting device now supporting the
3. Connect the electrical wires as tagged engine weight, remove the mounting
during disassembly. capscrews from the engine stand.
4. Install the poly-V drive belt (1). 4. Using the lifting device, place the engine in a
5. Adjust the drive belt tension to specification suitable support rack or install the engine in
as described under Belt Drive System the vehicle (see Engine Installation in the
procedures in the MAINTENANCE section. REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS section).
310

Figure 310 — Alternator Installation

1. Adjusting Capscrew 3. Alternator

2. Mounting Capscrews

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Plate-Type Oil Cooler and Oil Filter 3. Apply the gasket onto the block over the
previously installed alternator stud.
Mounting Bracket Assembly
4. If not previously done, install the cooler-to-
Installation water pipe hose onto the water pump inlet
[215 DW, 219 EP] pipe and slide completely onto the pipe to
allow installation of the oil cooler. Also
loosely install both the hose clamps.
When the engine is equipped with the current-
production plate-type oil cooler, the cooler and oil 5. Install the filter assembly pedestal onto the
filter mounting bracket cannot be installed until stud with the forward end of the assembly
the engine is removed from the repair stand. tilted downward approximately 1 inch (to
allow clearance with the inlet manifold).
Refer to Figure 312 and install the assembly as Once the assembly is mounted on the stud,
follows: pivot the assembly clockwise to align the
remaining three mounting holes of the
1. Install an alternator mounting stud (part pedestal, while making sure the gasket
No. 107AM5009) or stud of the same thread remains in the proper position.
into the upper right-hand corner of the oil
filter pedestal mounting pad. Only one stud 6. With the mounting holes of the pedestal
can be installed due to the close proximity of aligned, install the bolt in the upper front
the oil cooler to the inlet manifold. mounting hole position. Then install the
remaining two bolts in the lower mounting
2. Apply a small amount of grease to the back holes.
of the oil filter mounting bracket pedestal
gasket around the area of the mounting hole 7. Remove the stud from the upper right
on the left-hand side of the gasket as shown mounting hole, then install the mounting
in Figure 311. This will hold the gasket in bolt.
place as the oil cooler and filter assembly is 8. Snug all bolts (7) in a criss-cross pattern,
installed. then tighten to 60 lb-ft (81 N•m).
311

9. Slide the cooler-to-water pipe hose from its

previously positioned location on the pipe to
be centered between the cooler and the
water pipe.
10. Properly position the two hose clamps and
tighten in position.
11. Install the turbocharger lubrication supply
line (2).
12. Connect the harness to the oil pressure and
oil temperature sensors (6 and 5) on the
filter mounting bracket (9).

Figure 311 — Gasket Grease Application

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312

Figure 312 — Plate-Type Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Mounting Bracket Installation

1. Oil Supply Port for Mechanical Oil Pressure Dashboard 5. Oil Temperature Sensor Port
Gauge 6. Oil Pressure Sensor
2. Turbocharger Lubrication Supply Port 7. Mounting Capscrews
3. Oil Cooler 8. Cylinder Block
4. Oil Supply Port for REPTO, Turbo Unloader and 9. Oil Filter Mounting Bracket
Remote-Mounted Oil Filter

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
ENGINE INSTALLATION 2. Install engine mount capscrews to secure
the engine to the engine mounts. Tighten the
capscrews to specification.
General Instructions
3. Remove transmission jack from under
Engine installation details vary from vehicle to transmission.
vehicle. The following procedure provides
general installation guidelines for MACK 4. Install the clutch linkage and bracket-
E-Tech™ engines. retaining capscrews.
5. Install power steering hoses and reservoir, if
Before beginning, make sure all equipment has applicable.
been inspected for safety and is available for use.
Place the vehicle on a flat, level surface. Make 6. Install the hood rest crossmember(s), if
sure the area has ample work space. applicable.
7. Install the exhaust bracket to the flywheel
housing and install exhaust clamp at the
turbocharger.
Torsional idler-gear assemblies are available for
8. Install the starter. Connect wiring and
servicing both 1:1 and 0.7:1 ratio Flywheel Power
cables.
Take-Off (FWPTO) units in E-Tech™ engines
equipped with a T200 series transmission and 9. Install the air cleaner housing, if required.
FWPTO. These assemblies feature a two-piece
10. Install all coolant tubes, ground straps, air
idler gear and torsion spring.
lines, fuel lines, hydraulic hoses or tubes,
throttle linkage and electrical wiring
The torsional idler-gear assembly reduces spline harnesses that were removed from the
wear on the FWPTO input (drive) gear. If the unit engine during removal.
is removed for any reason:
r Inspect the input gear splines for excessive
wear.
On some engine models, the machined V-band
r If the splines show excessive wear, was replaced with a 3.5-inch push-on
disassemble the FWPTO far enough to gain turbocharger discharge connection that is angled
access to the idler-gear assembly. Refer to forward. The remaining models use a 3-inch
MACK Service Manual 10-901, Flywheel push-on connection directed 90 degrees outward
Power Take-Off. from the center line of the turbocharger. You will
need to know which turbocharger type is used on
the engine when ordering replacement parts.
Engine Installation into Vehicle
11. Connect the air inlet tube between the
turbocharger and air cleaner assembly.

Obtain assistance when installing the engine. Be 12. Connect the heater hoses and A/C
sure to watch for obstructions such as engine or refrigerant lines, if applicable, where
chassis components, brackets, clamps or other attached at the lower dash panel behind the
components that may interfere with engine engine.
installation. 13. Install the fan and fan clutch assembly.
14. Install the accessory drive belts and adjust
1. Align engine with the torque converter or the belts to specification.
clutch (as applicable) and install the
transmission bell housing-to-flywheel 15. Using a lifting device, place the radiator in
housing capscrews. Tighten the capscrews position at the front of the engine.
to specification. 16. Install the retaining capscrews to the lower
radiator support mounts.

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17. Install the retaining capscrews to the 25. If the vehicle is equipped with air
radiator support rods. conditioning:
18. Position the fan clutch air solenoid valve, if a. Connect the A/C refrigerant low-
so equipped, on the radiator support and pressure cutout switch to the wiring
install the retaining fastener. harness connector.
19. Locate the engine coolant temperature b. Connect the binary (cycling clutch)
sensor, if applicable, and connect it to the pressure switch on the receiver/dryer to
wiring harness. Fasten the sensor harness the wiring harness connector.
to the radiator support.
c. Connect the A/C line at the receiver/
20. Connect the chassis-mounted charge air dryer.
cooler (CMCAC) outlet hose at the cooler.
d. Connect the A/C compressor discharge
21. Connect the CMCAC inlet hose at the hose to the system at the connection
cooler. point near the radiator support.
22. Place the coolant overflow tank in position e. Recharge the A/C system with
and install the retaining clamps. refrigerant using refrigerant recovery
and recycling equipment (J 38750-A for
23. Connect the lower radiator hose to the
R12 or J 39500-B for R134A).
coolant inlet of the oil cooler assembly.
26. Place the air intake tube in position and
24. Connect the upper radiator hose to the
tighten the clamps securing the intake tube
coolant outlet fitting on the engine.
to the turbocharger and air filter.
27. Install the hood. Refer to the Hood
Installation procedures in the appropriate
vehicle manual.

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IN-CHASSIS PART/ 3. On chassis with inlet manifold-mounted fuel
filters, remove both the inlet and outlet fuel
COMPONENT PROCEDURES hoses from the secondary fuel filter. This
This section presents four standalone allows additional fuel to drain from the hose,
replacement operations which can be done in- through the cylinder block, and out of the
chassis and not involve a full engine overhaul. internal passages.
These operations include Electronic Unit Pump On chassis with remote-mounted fuel filters,
Replacement, Camshaft Replacement, Engine remove the fuel hose from the cylinder block
Brake Control Valve Replacement and Valve fuel-inlet fitting, which is behind the EECU at
Lifter H-Ring Installation Check. the top. This allows additional fuel to drain
through the cylinder block and out of the
Electronic Unit Pump (EUP) internal passages.
Replacement 4. Place a drain pan beneath the right side of
the engine. Remove the fuel-outlet fitting
[221 GP] from the cylinder block fuel return gallery
above the air compressor. This allows fuel to
To properly service the electronic unit pumps drain from the internal passages.
(EUPs), it is essential to understand unit pump
removal, pin and tappet installation, and unit
pump installation. Each of these procedures is
covered individually. To ensure that minimal fuel enters crankcase oil
during EUP removal, steps 3 and 4 MUST be
followed. To avoid fuel spillage, do not crank the
UNIT PUMP REMOVAL engine with the starter at any time during EUP
removal or replacement.

5. Remove the injection tube.

When it is necessary to remove more than one
EUP, the removed EUPs must be paint-marked 6. Remove wire terminals from the EUP.
with the cylinder number, and reinstalled at their 7. Remove the inboard EUP screw completely.
original locations. This will eliminate any need to
reprogram EUP information. If a new or 8. Loosen outboard EUP screw and back it out
remanufactured EUP is installed, reprogramming 1/2 inch.
must be performed as described at the 9. Insert screwdrivers under the bolt bosses
conclusion of the EUP installation section. (front and rear) and pry until the EUP comes
out against the screw head. (The EUP may
1. Remove the heat shields. spring out against the screw head.)
2. Clean the EUP and cylinder block around
the EUP to ensure that no debris enters the
engine during EUP removal.
The EUP spring may be preloaded with
significant spring tension, depending upon
cam lobe position. To avoid injury from the
To avoid engine damage due to debris entering EUP springing outward, steps 7–9 must be
EUP bores of the cylinder block, step 2 MUST be followed.
followed.
10. Remove outboard EUP screw completely
and remove EUP from the cylinder block.
Place the EUP in a clean area and cover it to
prevent entry of dirt and other contaminants.

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11. Remove roller tappet from the EUP bore by
hand. Do not use a tool as it could damage
the bore. Place the roller tappet in a clean
area and cover it to prevent the entry of dirt A small amount of scuffing or foreign particle
and other contaminants. scoring in a lifter bore can inhibit static-free
movement of a lifter. While this will not cause a
lifter to hang-up during engine operation, it is
TAPPET GUIDE PIN INSPECTION sometimes noticed during lifter removal or
1. Visually inspect the EUP bore in the cylinder installation. If this condition is encountered, use a
block for protrusion of the guide pin into the brake hone to lightly finish the bottom area of the
bore. If the pin protrudes approximately lifter bore. Trial-fit the lifter until the high spots
2 mm into the bore and is not damaged, it is have been removed and free-movement is
OK and no further action is required. re-established.
2. If the guide pin end is damaged or does not
protrude approximately 2 mm into the bore,
TAPPET INSTALLATION
replace it as follows:
1. Clean the cylinder block at the mounting
a. Using a 1/4-inch diameter punch from
surface and bore, if required.
outside of the cylinder block, drive the
guide pin from its bore.
b. Clean the pin bore in the block and a
new pin, part No. 183GC252, with Use only a soft rag and solvent to clean the
Loctite® primer “T.” Then, coat bore and cylinder block. Minor fretting at the EUP mounting
pin with Loctite® 609, or equivalent. surface is acceptable.
c. Drive the pin into the bore until it is
flush with the cylinder block outer 2. Generously lubricate the roller tappet with
surface as shown in Figure 313. clean engine oil and carefully install it into
the bore using a finger. Refer to Figure 313.
313

Occasionally, a failure will result in severe wear

and breakage of the roller and roller axle, causing
these parts to separate from the lifter body.
Subsequently, the lifter legs (which had retained
the axle in the lifter body) are bent outward and
driven up into the lifter bore by the cam lobe. This
action damages the bottom 1/4 to 3/8 inch of the
bore, preventing installation of a new lifter.
The damaged bore area must be cleaned up with
a file, stone, or emery paper before the new lifter
can be installed. Use care when removing raised
metal so not to enlarge the bore diameter. Any
remaining nicks or scores will not inhibit proper
function of the parts and cause no problem. Figure 313 — Positioning Tappet

The slot in the roller tappet MUST be oriented

outward to align with the pin in the bore. The
roller tappet should slide freely in the bore.

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UNIT PUMP INSTALLATION 5. Reinstall the wire terminals and tighten to
specification, 9 lb-in (1 N•m). Do not bend
1. Install two new O-rings on the replacement
wire terminals down after installation.
EUP in the upper and lower O-ring grooves.
2. Generously lubricate EUP O-rings with clean
engine oil and install the EUP into the
cylinder block (Figure 314). If an EUP has been replaced with a new or
remanufactured unit, the replacement unit must
be calibrated as described under Electronic
Pump Calibration in the Engine Setup and
Minimize oil above top O-ring to avoid weepage Adjustments section. This will ensure optimum
of excess oil (trapped above the top O-ring) onto engine performance.
the cylinder block.
6. Reinstall the heat shields.

Camshaft Replacement (Engine in

To avoid O-ring damage, the cam lobe must be Chassis)
positioned with the base circle up prior to
installation of each EUP. Do not use the starter to [213 CH]
rotate the engine; instead, use the flywheel
barring tool.
The preliminary steps for replacing the camshaft
314 will vary depending on the chassis configuration
and engine model. As such, these steps are
general in nature. Begin the operation by
disconnecting the battery and draining all fluids
from the engine. Then, remove the hood and
fender assembly, radiator, engine accessories/
drives, ducts, valve covers, engine brake
assemblies (if equipped), rocker shaft
assemblies, push rods, oil pan and front cover,
etc. The cylinder heads will remain installed.

CAMSHAFT REMOVAL

Figure 314 — Unit Pump Installation When removing or installing the camshaft, first
remove the idler gear and hub. It is easier to
3. Reinstall the EUP screws and tighten evenly remove the camshaft guide from the camshaft
to draw the EUP into the cylinder block. (after installation) when the idler gear has been
Tighten screws to 42 lb-ft (57 N•m). removed and alignment of the timing marks is not
being attempted at the same time. The final step
4. Reinstall the injection line and torque to in the process is to reinstall the idler gear.
specification as follows:
r Line clamp screw at cylinder head:
35 lb-ft (47 N•m)
r Line nut at cylinder head clamp screw: With the engine in the chassis, the valve lifters
25 lb-ft (34 N•m) must be held in the UP position, using tappet
r Line nut at EUP: 25 lb-ft (34 N•m) holders J 37720-C in combination with J 42425.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
1. Insert the tappet holder in the lifter bore so 316

that the magnetic head of the tool holds the

lifter in position. Check to see if the tool has
captured the valve lifter by drawing upward
on the tool. A resistance will be felt that
cannot be felt if the magnet has contacted
something other than a valve lifter.
2. Secure the lifter in the UP position with
grommets provided with the tappet holders.
The holding tool shafts of two adjacent valve
lifters can be prevented from dropping by
wrapping a rubber band around the two
shafts. This draws the shafts together and
holds them in position. Refer to Figure 315.
315

Figure 316 — Camshaft Thrust Washer Capscrews

Figure 315 — Valve Lifter (Tappet) Holder Tool J 37720-C 1. Thrust Washer 3. Capscrew, 12-Point
2. Openings (8, Current 4. Camshaft Drive Gear
Production)
3. Remove the two 12-point capscrews (3) that
retain camshaft thrust washer (1). Camshaft
may have to be rotated slightly to make the 4. Install the camshaft removal/installation tool
capscrews accessible through openings (2) J 41682 (Figure 317) in position on the rear
in the camshaft drive gear (4). Refer to segment of the camshaft, securing it with the
Figure 316. clip to the shaft.
317

Figure 317 — Camshaft Removal/Installation Tool

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
5. Taking care not to damage camshaft or 2. Install a lifter into the lifter bore by aligning
bushings, pull the camshaft out of the front the lifter flats with the H-ring flats. As the
of the engine. Carefully guide rear of the lifter is seated, it should be possible to rotate
shaft through the journals. If the shaft does it slightly from left to right.
not come out freely, ensure that all valve
lifters are clear of the camshaft cams and
journals.
6. Remove and inspect the valve lifters. With the engine in the chassis, the valve lifters
must be held in the UP position, using tappet
holders J 37720-C in combination with J 42425.

Valve lifters have established wear patterns and 3. As the lifter is installed, it must be held in
should be reinstalled in same locations. Label position by inserting a tappet holder into the
each valve lifter upon removal and place on a opening through the top of the cylinder head
clean work surface. and block. The tappet holder must be
positioned so that the magnetic head of the
tool holds the lifter in position. Check to see
if the tool has captured the valve lifter by
CAMSHAFT INSTALLATION
drawing upward on the tool. A resistance will
General Instructions be felt that cannot be felt if the magnet has
contacted something other than a valve
Before installing a camshaft in any engine, lifter.
ensure that cam is clean. Parts that are free of
4. Secure the lifter in the UP position with
dirt/contamination and are well-lubricated with
grommets provided with the tappet holders.
clean engine oil are essential for initial start-up
The holding tool shafts of two adjacent valve
and run-in. If necessary, wash and brush the
lifters can be prevented from dropping by
camshaft in solvent and blow-dry with
wrapping a rubber band around the two
compressed air. Also, check the camshaft for
shafts. This draws the shafts together and
possible handling burrs on the edges of journals
holds them in position. Refer to Figure 315.
and lobes. Any minor burrs can be removed with
a fine stone. 5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 to install each of
the remaining valve lifters.
6. Apply a generous coating of clean engine oil
to camshaft bushings.
Use camshaft guide tool J 41682 to ease
installation of the camshaft and avoid damage to 7. Clean camshaft with a suitable solvent.
the camshaft bushings.

Procedure Make sure the captured thrust washer and

camshaft gear are properly installed on the
Install the camshaft as follows: camshaft.

8. Install the camshaft installation guide tool

over the large flat of the injector lobe,
In order to use the valve lifter tool to hold the between the last two cam journals (journals
valve lifters in position, the cylinder heads must at back of shaft).
be installed on the engine.
9. Apply clean engine oil to the installation
Arrange valve lifters in order identified so that guide.
they can be reinstalled back into the same hole.

1. Apply a generous coating of clean engine oil

to the valve lifters.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
[213] CAMSHAFT IDLER GEAR
INSTALLATION
The camshaft is heavy, approximately 90 pounds Before installing the idler gear/hub assembly,
with the gear. The installation guide allows the determine which is the top mounting hole on the
camshaft to slide from one cam bushing to the hub.
next without allowing the cam to drop when one
journal clears the bushing bore. The idler gear is held in place by a flanged hub
mounted to the cylinder block by three bolts.
Although the bolt-mounting pattern may appear
10. Slide the camshaft into the block with the
symmetrical, it is not. The non-symmetrical
cam installation guide facing down toward
mounting pattern ensures that oil feed passages
the floor. Refer to Figure 318.
in the hub will be properly aligned with the oil feed
11. Slide the cam all the way into the block. passage in the cylinder block, which lubricates
318
the idler gear hub bushing.

To aid in aligning the hub to the mounting holes in

the cylinder block, the hub mounting-bolt hole at
the 12 o’clock position (engine upright) is
identified by the word “UP” steel-stamped just
below the mounting hole. Refer to Figure 319.
1. With the engine in an upright position and
the hub correctly aligned with the mounting
bolt holes, place the idler hub against the
block and verify good mounting-hole
alignment.
319

Figure 318 — Camshaft Installation

12. After the camshaft is fully installed, install

the thrust washer screws and tighten to
specification.
13. Rotate the crankshaft and camshaft to
facilitate installation guide removal. The
camshaft must be rotated so that the
installation guide faces the cylinder block
pan rail. The crankshaft must be rotated so
the No. 6 connecting rod journal faces the
cylinder block top deck (piston at TDC).
14. Remove the installation guide tool J 41682.

Figure 319 — Hub Correctly Positioned on Block

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
2. Align the timing marks. First look at the 4. Position idler gear timing marks so they align
timing marks on both the camshaft and with the crankshaft and camshaft gear
crankshaft gears. Note that two teeth are timing marks. Then slide the idler gear/hub
marked (side-by-side) on each gear. These assembly into position on the engine block.
two timing marks must align with the single
5. Oil the bolts with clean engine oil. Start bolts
timing marks on the idler gear. When
a few turns.
properly installed, the two single timing
marks on the idler gear will fall between the 6. Tap the hub portion of the assembly with a
two timing marks on the camshaft and brass hammer to seat components.
crankshaft gears. To attain correct
7. Tighten the bolts evenly to specification. Do
alignment, rotate the crankshaft and
not use an impact wrench or other air tool to
camshaft gears until the camshaft timing
tighten bolts.
marks are in approximately the 3:30
position, and the crankshaft gear timing
Final Assembly
marks are in approximately the 1 o’clock
position (with engine in upright position and
Complete the reassembly of the engine by
viewed from the front).
installing the front cover, seals, oil pan, push
rods, rocker shaft assemblies, engine brake
assemblies (if equipped), valve covers, other
engine accessories/drives, radiator, hood and
There are 45 gear teeth on the crankshaft gear, fender assembly, etc.
90 teeth on the camshaft gear and 48 on the idler
gear. Because the idler gear has 3 more teeth Once the engine reassembly has been
than the crankshaft gear, the timing marks align accomplished, follow the procedures under
only once every 16 revolutions of the crankshaft. Engine Setup and Adjustments, and Final
This is called a “hunting tooth” system. Preparation and Operational Check in the
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS section to complete
3. Slide the idler gear onto the hub assembly the camshaft replacement.
with timing marks facing out.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Engine Brake Control Valve units may break or dislodge, allowing oil pressure
to push the control valve components from the
Replacement housing bore. This results in loss of oil pressure
and a poor performing or non-functioning engine
(J-Tech™ Engine Brake) brake unit. In most instances, however, this
condition will go unnoticed until the cylinder head
GENERAL INFORMATION covers are removed. A broken or dislodged
control valve retaining snap ring will not cause
With J-Tech™ engine brake units built prior to any damage to the engine.
June 1999, the possibility exists that the snap ring 320

securing the control valve in the J-Tech™ brake

Figure 320 — Engine Brake Housing Assembly

To prevent breaking or dislodging of the control A control valve update kit (part No. 4559-28190)
valve snap ring, the J-Tech™ control valve for Jacobs 690 (J-Tech™) engine brake is
components have been redesigned to available through the MACK Parts System. The
incorporate a new-style collar (which replaces the kit includes all the necessary components to
old-style valve stop spacer), an outer spring and replace all six control valves on the engine.
a retaining washer (Figure 321). With this
change, the part No. of the engine brake housing
assembly was changed from 757GB58B to
757GB58C (beginning with housing assembly
serial No. D690060001), and was phased into
E-Tech™ engine production June 30, 1999
(beginning with engine serial number 9M4395).

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
321

The control valve stop spacer used with the

previous (non-current) control valve assembly
has been terminated and is no longer available.
Additionally, the new-style collar and outer spring
are not compatible with the non-current control
valves. Use of the collar and outer spring with the
old-style control valve will result in no braking
function.

Figure 321 — J-Tech™ Control Valve Components

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
INSPECTION AND REPAIR Valve Lifter H-Ring Installation
Remove the cylinder head valve covers and Check
check the control valve bores in each J-Tech™
assembly (Figure 320) for a dislodged or broken
snap ring(s). Should a broken or dislodged
control valve snap ring be encountered, it is
recommended that the control valve components Any valve train failure which results in excessive
for all six control valves on the engine be valve lash can result in the valve lifter H-ring
replaced with these new components. After being dislodged or partially dislodged. If an
installing the new-style control valve components, engine has had such a failure, the affected
the letter “C” should be stamped on the Jake cylinder must be checked for proper positioning of
brake housing identification plate, as shown in the H-ring.
Figure 322 to identify that they have the updated
components. Dislodging of the H-ring from its bore results from
322
valve lifter inertia forcing the H-ring upward.
When the H-ring at a failure cylinder is higher
than that of an adjacent cylinder, the appropriate
action must be taken depending upon how much
the H-ring has been pushed upward. Measure the
installation depth of the H-ring as follows:
1. Remove the push rod and look down the
push rod hole, observing the top of the lifter
and the top of the H-ring.
2. Place an approximate 15-inch length of
welding rod on the top of the H-ring, at the
outboard side. Refer to Figure 323.
323

Figure 322 — J-Tech™ Housing Identification Plate

Figure 323 — H-Ring Measuring Point

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
3. Place a straightedge on the cylinder head 6. Place a long screwdriver or long piece of drill
top rail surface, in contact with the welding rod on the H-ring top surface and using a
rod. cross-alternating pattern as shown in
Figure 324, carefully tap the H-ring back into
4. Mark the welding rod at the straightedge
place. The depth should match that of the
contact point.
adjacent unaffected cylinder as marked
5. Perform the same check at an adjacent previously on the welding rod.
cylinder and mark this location on the 324

welding rod. Compare measurements with

the original mark made at the suspect
cylinder.
r If the H-ring at the failure cylinder is the
same height to 1/16 inch (1.574 mm)
higher as compared to that of an
adjacent cylinder, it is concluded that
no partial dislodging of the H-ring has
occurred. No further action is required.
r If the H-ring at the failure cylinder is
1/16–1/4 inch (1.574–3.175 mm) higher
than that of an adjacent cylinder, only
partial dislodging has taken place, but
H-ring to lifter engagement was
maintained. Proceed to step 6 for Figure 324 — Alternating Pattern for H-Ring
repositioning of the H-ring.
r If the H-ring is more than 1/4 inch
(3.175 mm) higher than that of an
adjacent cylinder, it is very likely that
lifter and camshaft lobe damage has
taken place. The lobe must be
inspected and the camshaft and lifter
replaced as necessary. Proceed to
step 6 for repositioning of the H-ring.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
ENGINE SETUP AND
ADJUSTMENTS
Engine firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4.
Fuel Injection Timing
There is no longer a need to set injection pump- SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED
to-engine timing. Consequently, the timing pointer
on the engine front cover is eliminated. In place of r Engine Barring Socket J 38587-A
the timing procedure, unit pump-to-engine timing
is programmed into and controlled by the EECU. LOCATING AND MARKING FLYWHEEL VALVE
However, the flywheel still has pump timing ADJUSTMENT MARKINGS
marks to accommodate application to both
E-Tech™ and E7 engines; the marks are not
needed for the E-Tech™ engine.
Some engines may be equipped with flywheels
Valve Yoke, Valve Lash and Engine that have missing or illegible valve adjustment
Brake Adjustments markings. If this problem is encountered, a typical
flywheel can be marked while the engine is in the
[213 NB] chassis.

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS TYPICAL FLYWHEELS

On a typical flywheel, the top center (TC)

markings, and the valve adjustment markings,
are directly in line with the clutch mounting bolt/
The pinless type inlet valve yoke is self-leveling bolt holes. To determine if the engine is equipped
and does not have a yoke leveling adjustment with a typical flywheel, view the flywheel through
screw. Inlet valve lash adjustments are performed the timing access hole in the flywheel housing.
in the normal manner with the rocker arm Align the TC markings with the timing pointer. If
adjusting screw. the flywheel is typical, there should be a clutch
mounting bolt/bolt hole directly in line with the TC
Yoke and valve adjustments are done in two marking. In this case, the valve adjustment
stages. Adjust the pin-type yoke clearance markings should be in line with a clutch mounting
FIRST, and then adjust the valve lash. Make sure bolt at three locations. Refer to Figure 325.
both adjustments are done in firing order
sequence. Manually rotate the engine in normal
rotation direction until the center of the timing
pointer hole in the flywheel housing aligns with
the valves 1 and 6 mark on the flywheel and the
No. 1 piston is on the compression stroke. The
flywheel has three stamped locations at 120-
degree intervals for valve settings.

Yoke and valve adjustments must be made under

static conditions with coolant temperature below
100°F (37°C).

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325

Figure 325 — Flywheel Marks

There are 12 clutch mounting bolt holes in the 1. Beginning with the TC mark aligned with the
flywheel, but only 8 of these holes are used to timing pointer, rotate the engine in the
mount the clutch. Every third bolt hole, for a total direction of normal rotation
of four, is not used. These holes are in an open (counterclockwise, viewed from rear) to the
area between the clutch mounting flanges. The next clutch mounting bolt/bolt hole.
unused holes are easy to see through the timing Temporarily mark this location for cylinders
access hole in the flywheel housing. The bolt 1 and 6.
holes where there are clutch mounting bolts are
2. Continue rotating the engine in the normal
more difficult to see because the clutch mounting
direction and count the clutch mounting bolt/
bolt head is somewhat rearward of the timing
bolt holes as they pass the timing access
access opening. To aid in counting the clutch
opening. At the fourth mounting bolt/bolt
mounting bolt/bolt holes, keep in mind that there
hole, make a temporary mark on the
is slightly over four inches between one bolt hole
flywheel for cylinders 2 and 5.
and the next. Locating the clutch mounting bolts
may be made easier by removing the bell housing 3. Rotate the engine another four mounting
inspection cover and viewing or feeling for the bolt/bolt holes and make a temporary mark
bolts through the access hole. on the flywheel for cylinders 3 and 4.
4. Rotate the engine another three clutch
After verifying that there is a clutch mounting bolt/
mounting bolt/bolt holes and verify that the
bolt hole in line with the TC mark, the next step is
flywheel is at the TC mark. Then, rotate the
to find the three locations where the valve
engine one more bolt/bolt hole and verify
adjustment marks should be. Put a temporary
that the flywheel is at the temporary mark
mark (chalk, grease pencil, paint, etc.) at each of
made for cylinders 1 and 6.
the three locations. Proceed as follows:

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
5. Permanently mark the flywheel at this Refer to Figure 326 and Figure 327.
location for cylinders 1 and 6. To gain
1. Using engine barring socket J 38587-A,
access, rotate the engine slightly so that the
manually rotate engine in normal rotation
area to be marked is either to the right or left
direction until pointer in flywheel housing
side of the timing pointer. Place a chisel
aligns with the valves 1 and 6 mark on the
mark directly in line with the clutch mounting
flywheel and the No. 1 piston is on the
bolt/bolt hole. Then, stamp or electric-etch
compression stroke.
the cylinder numbers on either side of the
chisel mark.
6. Rotate the engine to the remaining locations
and make sure to count the clutch mounting Valve lash must be set using the valve
bolt/bolt holes to verify the locations of the adjustment marks on the engine flywheel, which
temporary markings. Once verified, are at 30 degrees ATC. This ensures that the
permanently mark each location as lifter is on the camshaft base circle and not on the
described. brake ramp portion of the lobe.
NON-TYPICAL FLYWHEELS 326

If the engine is equipped with a non-typical

flywheel, the TC markings will be halfway
between two clutch mounting bolts. If this type of
flywheel has no valve adjustment markings, it
should be replaced.

VALVE YOKE ADJUSTMENT

Beginning March 2, 2000 (engine serial
No. 0D0120), pinless valve yokes were
implemented into production on all E-Tech™
engines. The pinless yokes are used for the inlet
valves only. The cylinder heads no longer have
yoke guide pins at the inlet valve locations.
The pinless yoke is self-leveling in operation and
does not have a leveling adjustment screw. Inlet
valve adjustments are performed in the normal
manner with the rocker arm adjusting screw. For
the exhaust valves, it is still necessary to adjust
the valve yoke first, then the rocker arm lash.

Make sure that adjusting screws are retracted

upward in the rocker arms. If they extend too far
below the rocker arm, the push rods can be bent
when tightening the rocker arm assembly
brackets. Figure 326 — Engine Crankshaft Rotation

Verify that the slave piston adjusting screws are 1. Barring Socket 3. Flywheel
fully retracted and that all the spherical jam nuts J 38587-A
are turned down snug against the rocker arms 2. Flywheel Housing
before rotating the engine crankshaft for valve
lash adjustment. Rotating the engine crankshaft
with the spherical jam nuts loose, or the slave
piston adjusting screws not fully retracted, could
damage the brake master pistons.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
2. Back off the valve rocker adjusting screws. 327

3. Loosen the No. 1 cylinder yoke adjusting

screw jam nuts for the inlet and exhaust
valves.
4. Exert moderate force on the yoke by
pressing on the rocker arm slipper end. Turn
down the yoke adjusting screw until it makes
solid contact with the outboard valve stem
tip, as sensed by a light drag on the
adjusting screw.

If the engine is equipped with an engine brake,

the exhaust yoke will be equipped with an
actuator pin adjusting screw.
Do not allow anything to press down on the
actuating pin during adjustment. The pin must be
fully extended, approximately 1/4 inch
(6.350 mm) above the top of the hollow adjusting
screw. If the pin is held down and not fully
extended, an improper adjustment and engine
failure will result.

5. Turn adjusting screw an additional 1/6 turn

(60 degrees) clockwise.
Figure 327 — Yoke Adjusting Screw and Jam Nut

1. Valve Yoke 2. Adjusting Screw

A 1/6 turn is equal to one flat on the adjusting
screw locknut. 7. Check yoke adjustment as follows:
a. Insert a 0.010-inch (0.254-mm)
6. Hold the yoke adjusting screw in this thickness gauge between the yoke and
position while tightening the adjusting screw valve stem, at both the inboard and
jam nut to the specified torque, 33 lb-ft outboard locations.
(45 N•m), using torque wrench J 24407, or
equivalent. b. Exert moderate force on the yoke by
pressing on the rocker arm slipper end
as shown in Figure 328. An equal drag
should be felt on both thickness
gauges. If drag is unequal, readjust the
yoke adjusting screw, as required.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
328
3. After setting adjustment screw, tighten jam
nut to specification, 40 lb-ft (54 N•m), using
torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

Do not allow the adjustment screw to turn.

4. After tightening jam nut, recheck valve lash

clearance. Readjust as necessary.
329

Figure 328 — Checking Yoke Adjustment

1. Rocker Arm 3. Thickness Gauges

2. Valve Yoke

INLET VALVE ADJUSTMENT

Refer to Figure 329.

Inlet valve lash clearance is 0.016 inch

(0.406 mm).

When checking the inlet valve adjustment as part

of a troubleshooting routine, the acceptable
range is 0.012–0.020 inch (0.305–0.508 mm). Do
NOT readjust the lash clearance unless it is
outside of this range.

1. Place a 0.016-inch (0.406-mm) thickness

gauge between the rocker arm and yoke on
the No. 1 cylinder.
2. Turn the adjusting screw until a light drag is Figure 329 — Inlet Valve Adjustment
felt on the thickness gauge.
1. Adjusting Screw 3. Valve Yoke
2. Thickness Gauge

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
EXHAUST VALVE ADJUSTMENT
Refer to Figure 330.
The J-Tech™ exhaust rocker arm adjusting screw
Exhaust valve clearance is 0.024 inch spherical jam nut is a through-hardened nut.
(0.610 mm). When tightening these nuts, be aware of the
following:
r Always use the proper 20-mm size wrench.
Using an improper size wrench to tighten the
When checking the exhaust valve adjustment as
jam nuts can lead to jam nut breakage.
part of a troubleshooting routine, the acceptable
range is 0.020–0.028 inch (0.508–0.711 mm). Do r Overtightening the jam nut when adjusting
NOT readjust the lash clearance unless it is valves may result in jam nut breakage. If
outside of this range. there is too much or too little drag on the
thickness gauge, loosen the jam nut and
1. Place a 0.024-inch (0.610-mm) thickness reading valve lash.
gauge between the rocker arm and yoke on
the No. 1 cylinder. 4. Recheck valve lash clearance after
tightening jam nut. Readjust as necessary.
2. Turn the adjusting screw until a light drag is 330
felt on the thickness gauge.
3. After adjustment is complete, tighten jam nut
to specification, 40 lb-ft (54 N•m), using
torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

Do not allow the adjustment screw to turn.

Figure 330 — Exhaust Valve Adjustment

1. Spherical Jam Nut 3. Valve Yoke

2. Thickness Gauge

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
ENGINE BRAKE ADJUSTMENT (IF
EQUIPPED)
[213] It may be necessary to back off the adjusting
screw slightly to remove the thickness gauge.
Refer to Figure 331. However, be sure to return the adjusting screw to
1. Place a 0.015-inch (0.381-mm) thickness the proper position.
gauge between the slave piston stem and
the actuator pin in the yoke adjusting screw. 3. Tighten the jam nut to specification, 25 lb-ft
2. Turn the slave piston adjusting screw to set (34 N•m).
331
the lash.

Figure 331 — J-Tech™ Exhaust Valve Rocker Arm and Yoke

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
CONTINUATION OF ADJUSTMENTS FOR 3. Make sure that the Jacobs electrical
REMAINING CYLINDERS connector, MACK part No. 4559-17366, is
installed in each of the engine brake cylinder
1. Using the barring socket, manually rotate
head cover spacers. Install one valve cover
the engine crankshaft (Figure 332) in normal
gasket in each spacer and position the
rotation direction 120 degrees until the
spacers on the cylinder heads.
center of the timing pointer hole in flywheel
housing aligns with the “2 & 5” mark on the 4. Connect the solenoid wires to the inside
flywheel and the No. 5 piston is on the terminal of the electrical connectors on the
compression stroke. spacers. Connect the brake lead wires from
332 the engine harness to the outside terminals.
5. Install the gaskets in the cylinder head valve
covers and position the covers on the
spacers.
6. Install six mounting bolts in each of the
cylinder head covers/spacers and tighten
the bolts to 20 lb-ft (27 N•m).

Engine Speed and Position Sensors

Installation and Adjustment
ENGINE SPEED SENSOR
Because the engine speed sensor (Figure 333) is
controlled by the measurement and selection of
proper mounting shims, the installation procedure
is as follows:
1. Using a depth micrometer or vernier caliper,
measure from the sensor mounting surface
on the flywheel housing to the OD of a
flywheel ring tooth.

Measurement must be made to the tooth OD or

an inaccurate measurement will result.

2. Select and install a shim on the sensor

Figure 332 — Engine Crankshaft Rotation mounting flange. Refer to following chart for
shim selection.
1. Barring Socket 3. Flywheel
J 38587-A
SHIM SELECTION CHART FOR ENGINE SPEED AND
2. Flywheel Housing
ENGINE POSITION SENSORS
Use the Following
2. Adjust the final intake and exhaust valve Depth as Measured P/N 505GC28 Shims
lash, and engine brake slave piston lash for
Less than/equal to 1.328 (2) P30
cylinder No. 5 as described in the procedure
for cylinder No. 1. (Continue this process for 1.329 through 1.343 (1) P15 + (1) P30
each of the remaining cylinders, following 1.344 through 1.358 (1) P30
the engine firing order sequence, 1.359 through 1.373 (1) P15
1-5-3-6-2-4.) Equal to/greater than 1.374 None

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
3. Install the sensor with the appropriate shim. OTHER ENGINE-MOUNTED SENSORS
Tighten the capscrew retaining the sensor to
The remaining engine-mounted sensors are
proper specification.
333 thread-mounted and are not adjustable. These
include the Fuel Temperature, Boost Air
Temperature, Boost Pressure Sensor, Coolant
Temperature, Oil Temperature and Oil Pressure
sensors. Refer to the Torque Specifications for
Engine-Mounted Sensors in the
SPECIFICATIONS section for thread sizes and
torque specifications.

Do not use an E7 English pipe-thread sensor in

place of a metric straight-thread sensor (or vice
versa). Doing so will result in thread damage to
both the sensor and the tapped hole into which
the sensor is installed.
Figure 333 — Engine Speed Sensor

ENGINE POSITION SENSOR Electronic Unit Pump (EUP)

Installation of this sensor (Figure 334) is the Calibration
same as that for the engine speed sensor except
for the first step. When installing the engine [221 GP]
position sensor, make the shim calculation
measurement from the sensor mounting surface Whenever an electronic unit pump(s) is replaced
on the front timing gear cover to the face of the in an engine, it is necessary to recalibrate the
camshaft gear. pump(s) by entering the calibration code into the
engine electronic control unit (EECU). The
calibration code is a four-digit number that can be
found on the data plate of each individual unit
Do not measure into one of the sensing holes in pump. This calibration code is then entered by
the gear face or an inaccurate measurement will using a personal computer that is running the
result. V-MAC® Service Support Software or the
Pro-Link® 9000.
334

The four-digit calibration code can be found on

the EUP data plate, shown after the letters “CAL”
for early production EUPs. For later-production
EUPs, the calibration code is still found in the
same location on the data plate (next to the word
MACK), only the identification letters “CAL” have
been eliminated to provide room for larger bar
codes.

Figure 334 — Engine Position Sensor

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
ENGINE FINAL PREPARATION Engine Lubrication System
AND OPERATIONAL CHECK GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS

Filter Element Installation A lubricating oil film coats rotating parts and
bearings of an overhauled engine, but this may
not provide sufficient lubrication when the engine
is started for the first time. The following briefly
describes the recommended procedure for
All filters and coolant conditioners must meet ensuring proper lubrication.
MACK specifications. Prime oil filters before
installation using the correct specification engine
oil.
Do not mix brands or types of lubricants.
1. Install a new air filter in the air filter housing. Chemical additives may be incompatible and may
2. Install the applicable Centri-Max® (externally contribute to the formation of sludge, acid or
drained) or Centri-Max® PLUS (internally hardening.
drained) filter assembly. Be sure to use a
new rotor element and O-ring.

Usually there are various points on the engine

where a pressure line may be tapped into, but if
There are different rotor assemblies for the no other is apparent, the oil gauge line may be
standard Centri-Max® (externally drained) and disconnected and a pressure tank applied at that
Centri-Max® PLUS (internally drained) filter point.
assemblies. Take care to use the correct rotor for
the applicable configuration. While either of the
two rotors available for the externally drained
configuration will slide on the spindle of the PRIMING THE LUBRICATION SYSTEM
internally drained configuration, they will be loose 1. Fill the engine crankcase to the specified
and not rotate, causing the unit to not function. capacity with the recommended MACK-
specified EO-M engine oil.
3. Using an appropriate filter wrench such as 2. Fill a pressure prelubricator (J 39258-A) with
J 29927, install the two full-flow oil filter the recommended oil and connect the
elements and coolant conditioner element. pressure prelubricator to main oil gallery.
Prime the engine lubrication system with
sufficient oil.

Prime the fuel filter elements before installation. 3. Remove the oil level dipstick and check the
Use only clean, MACK-specified, Grade 2D crankcase level. Add sufficient oil, if
diesel fuel. necessary, to bring it to the FULL mark on
the dipstick. Do not overfill.
4. Prime the PRIMARY fuel filter element (red)
by filling with clean No. 2 fuel oil. Do not fill Turbocharger
the filter through the center hole; it must be
filled using the outer holes. Lubricate the 1. Disconnect the turbocharger oil inlet line and
gasket with oil and install the filter. pour approximately one pint (473 ml) of
clean engine oil into the line. This ensures
5. Prime the SECONDARY fuel filter element that the bearings are properly lubricated for
(green) by filling with clean No. 2 fuel oil. Do initial start-up.
not fill the filter through the center hole; it
must be filled using the outer holes. 2. Reconnect the oil line.
Lubricate the gasket with oil and install the
filter.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Cooling System
1. Check the cooling system. Make sure all
plugs are installed and tight. Make sure the Excessive hand-priming after fuel is seen at the
thermostat is installed. fitting may make the engine difficult to start.
2. Fill the system with the recommended
coolant. 4. Reconnect the inlet hose to the secondary
fuel filter and start the engine.

To ensure that all air is purged from the cooling

system, remove a plug from the top (or end) of If the engine does not start, refill both filters and
the coolant manifold during filling. This will repeat the priming procedure outlined in steps 2,
eliminate any air that is trapped as a result of 3 and 4.
rapid filling.

3. Install a new coolant conditioner and fill with

the recommended coolant mixture. Do not crank the engine continuously for more
4. Check that all plugs and thermostat(s) are than 30 seconds without allowing the starter to
installed. cool for 2 minutes between cranks.

Fuel System
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS The only acceptable method of priming the fuel
1. Check the fuel system to ensure that all system is the hand primer pump. The application
connections are tight. of air pressure to the fuel tank or the use of an
auxiliary pump to prime the fuel system is
2. Remove any trapped air by operating the PROHIBITED. These priming techniques may
manual priming pump located on the side of result in severe engine damage caused by
the fuel supply pump, using the following leakage of fuel past the supply pump seal and
procedure. into the crankcase.

Prime the fuel system with clean, Grade 2D Engine Operational Check
diesel fuel (DF-A). 1. Remove all tools from the engine
compartment.

PRIMING THE FUEL SYSTEM 2. Connect the battery cables (negative cable
last).
Using a hand-priming pump is usually only
necessary when the fuel system has run dry. If 3. Clear the work area of debris and personnel.
the hand-priming pump is needed, use the 4. Start the engine. Check for leaks and
following procedure for priming a dry fuel system. monitor gauges for satisfactory oil pressure,
1. Fill the primary and secondary fuel filters. etc.

2. Disconnect the inlet hose at the secondary 5. After several minutes, shut the engine down.
fuel filter. (This is the center fitting on the Check the fluid levels and fill to capacity
CH/CL fuel filter mounting adapter.) before restarting the engine.

3. Hand-prime until fuel is seen at the inlet 6. Refer to the Rebuilt Engine Run-In
hose fitting. This should take approximately Procedures in this section for testing
50 hand pumps. procedures.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
REBUILT ENGINE RUN-IN The operator must be observant throughout the
entire run-in procedure, in order to detect any
PROCEDURES problems that develop. Constantly monitor the
instrumentation displaying functions of the engine
General Instructions and support systems, and record all readings.
The durability and service life of a rebuilt engine If, during run-in, the engine develops any of the
is directly related to its initial run-in following following abnormal running characteristics, shut it
overhaul. After a complete overhaul or any major down immediately. Investigate and correct the
repair job involving installation of piston rings, problem before continuing the run-in procedure.
pistons, cylinder sleeves or bearings, the engine
must be run-in prior to release for service. Always investigate the following conditions:
Run-in procedures vary depending on method r Unusual noises such as knocking, scraping,
used (i.e., engine dynamometer, chassis etc.
dynamometer or highway run-in). Regardless of r A significant drop in engine oil pressure
method, however, always properly prepare the
engine before starting it for the first time. r A significant rise in coolant temperature,
exceeding 240°F (116°C)
Run-In Check r A significant rise in oil temperature that
exceeds 240°F (116°C)
r An exhaust temperature that exceeds
maximum acceptable limits for the specific
Install any additional instrumentation needed for engine involved, as measured by a
the run-in method selected. pyrometer (if applicable)
r Any oil, coolant or air inlet system leaks
The operator should be familiar with the correct,
established procedure for checking chassis CYLINDER HEAD RETORQUING
power before using chassis dynamometer
After run-in procedure, in sequence, back off
method for run-in (refer to applicable chassis
each cylinder head capscrew individually until
dynamometer operation procedures).
free. Then retorque same capscrew to 205 lb-ft
(278 N•m).

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SPECIFICATIONS

SPECIFICATIONS

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SPECIFICATIONS
E-TECH™ ENGINE E7-310/330 E-TECH™
MECHANICAL Power at Governed Speed — 310 hp
SPECIFICATIONS (231 kW) at 1800 rpm
Peak Power — 330 hp (246 kW) at
Performance Specifications 1500 rpm
Maximum Torque — 1,360 lb-ft (1 844 N•m)
at 1100 rpm
Torque Rise — 50 percent
Retarding power specifications apply only for
engines equipped with the optional J-Tech™ Engine Brake Retarding Power — 335 hp
engine brake. (234 kW) at 2100 rpm

E7-330/350 E-TECH™
EM7-275 E-TECH™
Power at Governed Speed — 330 hp
Power at Governed Speed — 275 hp (246 kW) at 1800 rpm
(205 kW) at 1750 rpm
Peak Power — 350 hp (261 kW) at
Peak Power — 285 hp (212 kW) at 1500 rpm
1500 rpm
Maximum Torque — 1,460 lb-ft (1 979 N•m)
Maximum Torque — 1,305 lb-ft (1 769 N•m) at 1100 rpm
at 1020 rpm
Torque Rise — 52 percent
Torque Rise — 58 percent
Engine Brake Retarding Power — 335 hp
Engine Brake Retarding Power — 330 hp (234 kW) at 2100 rpm
(230 kW) at 2100 rpm
E7-350 E-TECH™
EM7-300 E-TECH™
Power at Governed Speed — 350 hp
Power at Governed Speed — 300 hp (261 kW) at 1800 rpm
(224 kW) at 1750 rpm
Maximum Torque — 1,360 lb-ft (1 844 N•m)
Peak Power — 310 hp (231 kW) at at 1200 rpm
1500 rpm
Torque Rise — 33 percent
Maximum Torque — 1,425 lb-ft (1 932 N•m)
at 1020 rpm Engine Brake Retarding Power — 335 hp
(234 kW) at 2100 rpm
Torque Rise — 58 percent
Engine Brake Retarding Power — 330 hp E7-355/380 E-TECH™
(230 kW) at 2100 rpm
Power at Governed Speed — 355 hp
(265 kW) at 1800 rpm
E7-300 E-TECH™
Peak Power — 380 hp (284 kW) at
Power at Governed Speed — 300 hp 1500 rpm
(224 kW) at 1800 rpm
Maximum Torque — 1,560 lb-ft (2 115 N•m)
Maximum Torque — 1,160 lb-ft (1 572 N•m) at 1100 rpm
at 1200 rpm
Torque Rise — 51 percent
Torque Rise — 33 percent
Engine Brake Retarding Power — 335 hp
Engine Brake Retarding Power — 335 hp (234 kW) at 2100 rpm
(234 kW) at 2100 rpm

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SPECIFICATIONS
E7-400 E-TECH™ Torque Rise — 25 percent
Power at Governed Speed — 400 hp Engine Brake Retarding Power — 360 hp
(298 kW) at 1800 rpm (251 kW) at 2100 rpm
Maximum Torque — 1,460 lb-ft (1 979 N•m)
at 1200 rpm E7-460 E-TECH™
Torque Rise — 25 percent Power at Governed Speed — 460 hp
Engine Brake Retarding Power — 335 hp (342 kW) at 1850 rpm
(234 kW) at 2100 rpm Peak Power — 487 (363 kW) at
1600–1700 rpm
E7-427 E-TECH™ Maximum Torque — 1,660 lb-ft (2 251 N•m)
at 1200 rpm
Power at Governed Speed — 427 hp
(318 kW) at 1800 rpm Torque Rise — 25 percent
Maximum Torque — 1,560 lb-ft (2 115 N•m) Engine Brake Retarding Power — 360 hp
at 1200 rpm (251 kW) at 2100 rpm

Material and Dimensional Data

WEIGHTS AND DIMENSIONS

Item Specification
Weight (wet) — includes oil and coolant 2340 lbs. (1062 kg)
Weight (dry) 2290 lbs. (1039 kg)
Displacement 728 cu. in. (12 L)
Bore and stroke 4-7/8 in. x 6-1/2 in. (124 mm x 165 mm)
Coolant capacity 13 qts. (12.3 L)
Sleeve design Wet/dry
Compression ratio 16.1:1
Fasteners and threads Metric
Flywheel housing — standard Aluminum
Flywheel housing — optional Ductile iron

COMPONENT FEATURES AND MATERIALS

Item Description
Cylinder block Alloyed gray cast iron
Main bearing caps Ductile iron, intermediates supported with buttress screws
Flywheel housing Aluminum, standard SAE No. 1, precision-doweled
Engine front cover (timing gear cover) Die-cast aluminum, precision-doweled
Cylinder sleeve Wet/dry, replaceable, centrifugally cast, alloyed cast iron
Cylinder sleeve crevice seal Teflon®-coated AFLAS/EPDM, intolerant of oil; use glycol for
installation lubricant
Cylinder heads Alloyed gray cast iron, two per engine; four valves per
cylinder
Cylinder head gaskets — body Nonasbestos material with steel core, two per engine
Cylinder head gaskets — fire ring Steel, keyed, six per engine

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SPECIFICATIONS
Item Description
Pistons Two-piece articulated, steel crown with three rings, aluminum
alloy skirt, pin bushings (early production), bushingless
(current production). The crown of bushingless pistons is
manganese-phosphate coated.
Piston rings — compression Keystone, plasma-faced top ring. Rectangular, chrome,
tapered-face second ring
Piston ring — oil Dual chrome-faced rails, conformable with coil spring
expander
Piston pin Full-floating, 2.25-inch (57-mm) diameter, full-pressure
lubrication through rifle-drilled holes in connecting rod
Connecting rods Forged steel, I-beam type with tapered pin end, 35-degree
cap angle, 10.4 inches (264 mm) center-to-center length
Crankshaft Drop-forged, medium carbon steel, elotherm-hardened
journals and fillets, eight integral counterweights, 3.25-inch
(83-mm) pin journal diameter, 4.5-inch (114-mm) main journal
diameter
Bearings — main Steel back, cast copper-lead intermediate layer, lead-tin
overlay
Bearings — connecting rod Steel back, cast copper-lead intermediate layer, lead-tin
overlay, deltawall
Vibration damper Constructed with internal metal inertia ring, viscous fluid filled
Camshaft Carbon steel with induction-hardened journals and lobes,
gear driven
Valves — inlet Poppet type with positive rotators, 20-degree seat, two per
cylinder
Valves — exhaust Poppet type with positive rotators, 30-degree seat, two per
cylinder
Valve lifters Roller follower type
Oil filters Two spin-on disposable; one Centri-Max®
Air compressor Flange-mounted, gear driven, oil-lubricated and water-cooled
from engine; Bendix, Holset or Meritor WABCO
Turbocharger Radial-flow type, exhaust gas driven, oil lubricated from
engine; Schwitzer
Lubrication system Full pressure, wet sump, 28-quart (26.5 L) capacity,
25,000-mile (40 000-km) highway/300-hour stop-and-go
change interval; MACK-approved EO-M oil. If application
meets Line Haul 1 requirements, it qualifies for extended
service interval with MACK-approved EO-M Plus oil.
Valve seat inserts Pressed-in head, replaceable
Manifold — air inlet Two piece, six port
Manifold — exhaust Three piece, six port
Manifold — water Two piece, four port
Fuel injection pumps Electronic unit pumps, Bosch
Fuel supply pump Gear type, Bosch
Fuel injection nozzles 8-hole, 140-degree spray angle, Bosch
Fuel filters Spin-on disposal type with metric mounting threads
Water pump Centrifugal-rotor type, belt driven
Thermostat 180-degree opening with rubber-seated flange seal and
stainless steel caged check-ball vent
Coolant conditioner (optional) Spin-on type, disposable

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SPECIFICATIONS
FITS AND LIMITS good judgment, experience and sound shop
practice.
The specifications as listed are for new parts, and
therefore, maximum wear must be established by

Tolerances Are Shown Low to High Standard Size or Fit

Component English Metric
AUXILIARY SHAFT
Shaft End Play 0.003–0.012 in. 0.076–0.305 mm
Shaft Journal Clearance 0.0020–0.0072 in. 0.051–0.183 mm
Shaft Bushing, Presized ID (front and rear) 2.064–2.068 in. 52.426–52.527 mm
Shaft Bushing, Presized OD (front and rear) 2.3140–2.3155 in. 58.7756–58.8137 mm
Shaft Bushing, Bore in Block (front and rear) 2.311–2.312 in. 58.699–58.725 mm
Shaft Bushing, Press-Fit in Bore (front and rear) 0.002–0.0045 in. 0.0518–0.1143 mm
Shaft Journal to Bushing (front and rear) 0.0020–0.0072 in. 0.0508–0.1829 mm
Shaft Journal Diameter OD (front and rear) 2.061–2.062 in. 52.349–52.375 mm
Oil Pump Driving Gear ID (press-fit) 1.6255–1.6250 in. 41.2877–41.2750 mm
Auxiliary Shaft Oil Pump Drive Journal 1.6278–1.6272 in. 41.3461–41.3309 mm
Air Compressor Drive Sprocket (press-fit) 1.1250–1.242 in. 28.575–31.547 mm
Auxiliary Shaft Air Compressor Sprocket Journal 1.1272–1.1268 in. 28.6309–28.6207 mm
CAMSHAFT
Bushing Free OD 4.0045–4.0065 in. 101.714–101.765 mm
Bushing Bore in Cylinder Block 3.9995–4.0005 in. 101.587–101.613 mm
Bushing Press-Fit in Bore 0.004–0.007 in. 0.102–0.178 mm
Bushing ID (Installed) 3.8188–3.8213 in. 96.998–97.061 mm
Cam Journal Diameter 3.8150–3.8160 in. 96.901–96.926 mm
Journal-to-Bushing Clearance 0.0028–0.0063 in. 0.071–0.160 mm
Cam Gear Journal OD on Camshaft 2.50205–2.50255 in. 63.552–63.565 mm
Cam Gear Bore ID 2.4983–2.4993 in. 63.457–63.482 mm
Cam Gear-to-Journal Press-Fit 0.00275–0.00425 in. 0.070–0.108 mm
Inlet Valve Lobe Nominal Lift 0.320 in. 8.128 mm
Exhaust Valve Lobe Nominal Lift 0.334 in. 8.484 mm
EUP Lobe Nominal Lift 0.704 in. 17.882 mm
Camshaft End Play 0.003–0.012 in. 0.076–0.305 mm
CONNECTING ROD
Connecting Rod Journal to Bearing Clearance 0.0012–0.0054 in. 0.030–0.137 mm
Side Clearance 0.007–0.014 in. 0.178–0.355 mm
Length between Centers 10.4375 in. 26.5113 cm
Cap Angle 35 degrees
Bore for Bushing 2.4355–2.4345 in. 61.8617–61.8363 mm
Burnish Bushing to: 2.2305–2.2275 in. 56.6547–56.5785 mm
Finish Bore to: 2.2504–2.2500 in. 57.1602–57.1500 mm
Crankpin Bore Diameter (as bored) 3.4305–3.4297 in. 87.1347–87.1144 mm
Crankpin Bore Diameter (reassembled) 3.4309–3.4294 in. 87.1449–87.1068 mm

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SPECIFICATIONS
Tolerances Are Shown Low to High Standard Size or Fit
Component English Metric
Bearing ID (in place) 2.9993–3.0013 in. 76.1822–76.2330 mm
Twist (within 12 in./30.48 cm) 0.010 in. 0.254 mm
Bend (within 12 in./30.48 cm) 0.004 in. 0.1016 mm
CRANKSHAFT
End Play 0.004–0.013 in. 0.102–0.330 mm
Crankpin Journal OD 3.248–3.247 in. 82.4992–82.4738 mm
Main Journal OD 4.4974–4.4964 in. 114.2340–114.2086 mm
Journal Out-of-Round or Taper (maximum diameter) 0.00035 in. 0.00889 mm
Max. Runout at No. 4 Journal (shaft supported on No. 1 0.005 in. 0.127 mm
and No. 7)
Front Oil Seal Installation Depth
Production 0.125 in. 3.175 mm
Service Replacement 0.219 in. 5.563 mm
Main Journal to Bearing Clearance 0.0022–0.0056 in. 0.056–142 mm
Front and Rear Oil Seals Square to Crankshaft (Must Be 0.010 in. 0.254 mm
Held Relative to Main Bearing Bores)
Rear Oil Seal Installation Depth
Production 0.344 in. 8.738 mm
Service Replacement 0.250 in. 6.350 mm
CYLINDER BLOCK
Deck Flatness 0.002 in. 0.0508 mm
Dowel Pin Holes (flywheel housing to block mounting) 0.6237–0.6247 in. 15.8420–15.8674 mm
Cylinder Bore in Block (upper) 5.501–5.500 in. 139.725–139.970 mm
Cylinder Bore in Block (lower) 5.1266–5.1250 in. 130.2156–130.1750 mm
Cylinder Bore Out-of-Round or Taper (on diameter) 0.004 in. max., without torque 0.1016 mm
(During manufacturing the cylinder bores are honed with a plate installed
torque-plate [simulated cylinder head] installed).
Sleeve OD (at upper pilot diameter) 5.5040–5.5030 in. 139.8016–139.7762 mm
Sleeve Bead for Fire Ring (protrusion above sleeve 0.0067–0.010 in. 0.1702–0.2540 mm
channel)
Sleeve in Bore (upper press-fit) 0.004–0.002 in. 0.1016–0.0508 mm
Sleeve in Bore (lower loose fit) 0.0029–0.0003 in. 0.0737–0.0076 mm
Main Bearing Bore in Block 4.818–4.817 in. 122.3772–122.3518 mm
Main Bearing-to-Crankshaft Journal Clearance 0.0022–0.0056 in. 0.0559–0.1422 mm
Main Bearing ID (in place) 4.502–4.4996 in. 104.3508–114.2898 mm
Note: Extension of the cylinder sleeve above the cylinder block deck can vary under the same head, as long as all are within
the 0.023–0.029 inch (0.584–0.737 mm) specification.
Cyl. Sleeve Flange Channel to Block Deck (Do Not 0.023–0.029 in. 0.584–0.737 mm
Measure from Top of Bead)
Cyl. Sleeve ID (Installed, See “NOTE 8 — CYLINDER 4.8755–4.877 in. 123.838–123.876 mm
SLEEVE ID” on page 328.)
EUP Tappet Bore 1.7320–1.7336 in. 43.993–44.033 mm
EUP Tappet OD 1.7299–1.7307 in. 43.939–43.960 mm
EUP Tappet-to-Bore Clearance 0.0013–0.0037 in. 0.033–0.094 mm

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SPECIFICATIONS
Tolerances Are Shown Low to High Standard Size or Fit
Component English Metric
Valve Roller Follower Bore 1.1245–1.1255 in. 28.562–28.588 mm
Valve Roller Follower OD 1.122–1.123 in. 28.499–28.524 mm
Valve Roller Follower-to-Bore Clearance 0.0015–0.0035 in. 0.038–0.089 mm
Valve Roller Follower H-Ring Bore 1.1245–1.1255 in. 28.562–28.588 mm
Valve Roller Follower H-Ring OD 1.1261–1.1265 in. 28.603–28.613 mm
Valve Roller Follower H-Ring-to-Bore Press Fit 0.0006–0.0020 in. 0.015–0.051 mm
CYLINDER HEAD
Alignment Across Exhaust Ports 0.005 in. 0.127 mm
Deck Flatness (over 18 in./45.72 cm) 0.0015 in. 0.0381 mm
Overall Height 6.391–6.397 in. 162.331–162.484 mm
Fire Ring Groove (width) 0.030–0.036 in. 0.762–0.914 mm
Fire Ring Groove (depth) 0.005–0.013 in. 0.127–0.330 mm
Fire Ring Groove (ID) 5.137–5.139 in. 130.479–130.531 mm
Valve Guide OD 0.6886–0.6881 in. 17.4904–17.4777 mm
Valve Guide Ream ID (after installation, inlet and exhaust, 0.3745–0.3755 in. 9.5123–9.5377 mm
used with 3/8 valve stem)
Top End of Valve Guide to Valve Spring Seat 0.959 ± 0.040 in. 24.359 ± 1.016 mm
Valve Guide Bore in Head 0.686–0.687 in. 17.424–17.450 mm
Valve Guide to Bore (press-fit) 0.0011–0.0026 in. 0.0279–0.0660 mm
Valve Guide Extension (fire deck to top of guide) 5.24 ± 0.03 in. 113.096 ± 0.762 mm
Yoke Guide Pin OD 0.4389–0.4392 in. 11.1481–11.1557 mm
Yoke Guide Pin Installed Height 1.848–1.918 in. 46.939–48.717 mm
Valve Seat Width (inlet and exhaust) 0.051–0.081 or 1.295–2.057 or
1/16 ± 1/64 in. 1.588 ± 0.397 mm
Valve Seat Insert Face Angle (inlet) 20° 30′ ± 15′
Valve Seat Insert Face Angle (exhaust) 30° −0′/+30′
Valve Seat-to-Guide Runout 0.002 in. F.I.M. 0.0508 mm
Valve Seat Insert Counterbore Diameter (inlet) 1.8285–1.8295 in. 46.4439–46.4693 mm
Valve Seat Insert Counterbore Diameter (exhaust) 1.6875–1.6885 in. 42.8625–42.8879 mm
Valve Seat OD (inlet) 1.831–1.832 in. 46.507–46.533 mm
Valve Seat OD (exhaust) 1.692–1.693 in. 42.977–43.002 mm
Valve Seat Insert (inlet, press-fit in head) 0.0015–0.0035 in. 0.0381–0.0889 mm
Valve Seat Insert (exhaust, press-fit in head) 0.0035–0.0055 in. 0.0889–0.1397 mm
Valve Seat Counterbore Depth (inlet) 0.360–0.364 in. 9.144–9.246 mm
Valve Seat Counterbore Depth (exhaust) 0.372–0.376 in. 9.449–9.550 mm
Injection Nozzle Holder Insert Bore
Upper and 2nd Bore 1.0740–1.0754 in. 27.280–27.315 mm
Lower Bore 1.058–1.060 in. 26.873–26.924 mm
Lobing (Max. per 30-degree Segment) 0.0004 in. 0.010 mm
Injection Nozzle Holder Insert OD
Upper and 2nd Sealing Diameters 1.0773–1.0781 in. 27.363–27.384 mm
Lower Sealing Diameter 1.06145–1.06225 in. 26.961–26.981 mm

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SPECIFICATIONS
Tolerances Are Shown Low to High Standard Size or Fit
Component English Metric
FLYWHEEL AND HOUSING
Dowel Pin Hole, Flywheel Housing (round pin, LH) 0.6259–0.6263 in. 15.8979–15.9080 mm
Dowel Pin Hole, Flywheel Housing (blade pin, RH) 0.6831–0.6835 in. 17.3507–17.3609 mm
Dowel Pin Diameter (round pin, LH) 0.6251–0.6253 in. 15.8775–15.8826 mm
Dowel Pin Diameter (blade pin, RH) 0.6251–0.6253 in. 15.8775–15.8826 mm
Cylinder Block End 0.6251–0.6253 in. 15.8775–15.8826 mm
Flywheel Housing End 0.6820–0.6825 in. 17.3228–17.3355 mm
Crankshaft Seal Mounting Bore 6.748–6.752 in. 171.3992–171.5008 mm
Starter Motor Mounting Bore 3.625–3.629 in. 92.075–92.117 mm
Transmission Mounting Face Axial Runout 0.008 in. TIR (Max)* 0.203 mm TIR (Max)*
Transmission Pilot Bore Radial Runout 0.010 in. TIR (Max)* 0.254 mm TIR (Max)*
Rear Seal Bore Radial Runout (See “NOTE 9 — REAR 0.009 in. TIR (Max)* 0.2329 mm TIR (Max)*
SEAL BORE RADIAL RUNOUT” on page 328.)
* Note: Must be held relative to main bearing bores. Check runout with an alignment bar installed through the cylinder block
main bearing bores.
FUEL SUPPLY PUMP
Pump Gear End Play (steel gear) 0.008 in. (Max) 0.203 mm (Max)
Pump Gear End Play (plastic gear) 0.019 in. (Max) 0.483 mm (Max)
IDLER GEAR
Gear Journal Clearance 0.0022–0.0045 in. 0.056–0.114 mm
Gear End Play 0.003–0.009 in. 0.076–0.228 mm
JACOBS ENGINE BRAKE
Slave Piston Lash Adjustment 0.015 in. 0.381 mm
OIL PUMP
Gear to Cover End Clearance 0.0035–0.0060 in. 0.089–0.152 mm
Oil Pump OD to Cavity Clearance 0.003–0.0045 in. 0.076–0.114 mm
Oil Pump Gear Backlash (Inside Pump) 0.018–0.035 in. 0.457–0.889 mm
Oil Pump Drive Gear to Driven Gear Backlash 0.008–0.016 in. 0.203–0.406 mm
Relief Valve Spring (free length) 6.4 in. 162.6 mm
Relief Valve Spring Pressure 63 lbs. 28.6 kg
(compressed to 5.56 in./14.12 cm)
Relief Valve Opening Pressure 90–115 psi 621–793 kPa
PISTON
Top Extension Above/Below Cyl. Block Deck at TDC +0.020 to −0.002 in. +0.508 to −0.051 mm
Wrist Pin Bore 2.2501–2.2509 in. 57.153–57.173 mm
Wrist Pin Length 3.820–3.825 in. 97.028–97.155 mm
Wrist Pin-to-Piston/Bore Clearance 0.0012–0.0021 in. 0.0297–0.0547 mm
(The 2-piece piston crown had bushings prior to mid-1999,
and no bushings after that date. Both versions have the
same clearance specifications.)
Wrist Pin OD 2.24875–2.24895 in. 57.11825–57.12333 mm
Piston-to-Liner Clearance 0.0030–0.0050 in. 0.0762–0.1270 mm
(2-piece piston, 90 degrees from pin axis)

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SPECIFICATIONS
Tolerances Are Shown Low to High Standard Size or Fit
Component English Metric
Ring Groove Service Limit, Top 4.912 in. 124.765 mm
(over 0.120 in./3.048 mm pins)
PISTON RINGS
Compression Ring End Gap (No. 349GC3101) 0.016–0.028 in. 0.406–0.711 mm
Compression Ring End Gap (No. 349GC3102) 0.013–0.025 in. 0.330–0.635 mm
Oil Control Ring End Gap (No. 350GC340) 0.013–0.028 in. 0.330–0.711 mm
Piston Ring Side Clearance (new) 0.0016–0.0030 in. 0.0406–0.0762 mm

Piston Ring Side Clearance (used) Maximum 0.0045 in. Maximum 0.1143 mm
Note: End gap checked in 4.875 gauge diameter. For every 0.001-inch (0.0254-mm) increase in gauge diameter, ring gap will
increase by 0.003 inch (0.076 mm). Refer to a MACK branch or dealer for specifications for piston ring part numbers not
listed above.
ROCKER ARM
Rocker Arm Ratio 1.5:1
Rocker Arm Hole ID 1.1306–1.1326 in. 28.7172–28.7680 mm
Rocker Arm Hole-to-Shaft Clearance 0.004–0.0015 in. 0.1016–0.0381 mm
Rocker Arm Shaft OD 1.1286–1.1291 in. 28.6664–28.6791 mm
Push Rod Overall Length 14.108–14.170 in. 358.343–359.918 mm
(from ball end, 0.560 in./14.224 mm ball placed in cup)
TIMING GEAR AND FRONT COVER
Idler Gear to Camshaft Gear Backlash 0.001–0.008 in. 0.025–0.203 mm
Camshaft Gear to Auxiliary Shaft Gear Backlash 0.001–0.009 in. 0.025–0.229 mm
Camshaft Gear to Fuel Supply Pump Gear Backlash 0.001–0.008 in. 0.025–0.203 mm
Crankshaft Gear to Idler Gear Backlash 0.001–0.008 in. 0.025–0.203 mm
Dowel Pin Holes (both, in cylinder block) 0.4987–0.4997 in. 12.6670–12.6924 mm
Dowel Pin Hole (round pin, in front cover, RH) 0.5005–0.5012 in. 12.7127–12.7305 mm
Dowel Pin Hole (blade pin, in front cover, LH) 0.5577–0.5584 in. 14.1656–14.1834 mm
Dowel Pin OD (round pin, RH) 0.5001–0.5003 in. 12.7025–12.7076 mm
Dowel Pin OD (blade pin, in cylinder block, LH) 0.5001–0.5003 in. 12.7025–12.7076 mm
Dowel Pin OD (blade pin, in front cover, LH) 0.5570–0.5575 in. 14.1478–14.1605 mm
Crankshaft Seal Mounting Bore 3.9995–4.0025 in. 101.5873–101.6635 mm
Timing Gear Cover Seal Mounting Bore to Crankshaft 0.015 in. TIR (Max) 0.381 mm TIR (Max)
Runout
Timing Gear Cover Seal Square to Crankshaft 0.010 in. (Max) 0.254 mm (Max)
Hydraulic Steering Pump Mounting Bore 3.2525–3.2545 in. 82.6135–82.6643 mm
Note: Must be held relative to main bearing bores. Check runout with an alignment bar installed through the cylinder block
main bearing bores.
TURBOCHARGER
Shaft End Play (models S300, S400) 0.003–0.006 in. 0.0762–0.1524 mm
Bearing Radial Check (measured at bearings) 0.018–0.029 in. 0.4572–0.7366 mm
VALVES
Lash Setting (Rocker Arm to Valve Guide Yoke Clearance)
Cold*
Inlet (adjustment at scheduled intervals) 0.016 in. 0.406 mm

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SPECIFICATIONS
Tolerances Are Shown Low to High Standard Size or Fit
Component English Metric
Inlet (acceptable range for interim checks) 0.012–0.020 in. 0.305–0.508 mm
Exhaust (adjustment at scheduled intervals) 0.024 in. 0.601 mm
Exhaust (acceptable range for interim checks) 0.020–0.028 in. 0.508–0.711 mm
* ‘Note: Valve Yoke Setting must be completed at each location with the respective piston at TDC firing position prior to
setting the (cold static) rocker arm lash. (See procedure in this manual for engines with J-Tech™ Brake.)
Valve Face to Deck (inlet) +0.0425 ± 0.007 in. +1.0795 ± 0.1778 mm
Valve Face to Deck (exhaust) −0.021 ± 0.007 in. −1.5334 ± 0.1778 mm
Valve Stem-to-Guide (inlet) 0.0015–0.0035 in. 0.0381–0.0889 mm
Valve Stem-to-Guide (exhaust) 0.0025–0.0045 in. 0.0635–0.1143 mm
Valve Stem OD (inlet, 3/8 in.) 0.373–0.372 in. 9.474–9.449 mm
Valve Stem OD (exhaust, 3/8 in.) 0.3720–0.3710 in. 9.4488–9.4234 mm
VALVE SEAT ANGLE
Exhaust 30° + 0´/− 30´
Inlet 20° 30´ ± 15´
VALVE SPRINGS
Free length 2.830 in. 71.882 mm
Spring pressure — when compressed to 1.5 in. (38.1 mm) 190–210 lbs 86.184–95.256 kg

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SPECIFICATIONS
E-Tech™ Component Torque
Specifications

All components are to be clean and free from

foreign material or corrosion. Assemblies are to
be made using suitable tools and procedures so
that no permanent damage will occur as a result
of the assembly.
Threads, washer and underhead of screw or
washer face of nuts should be lubricated with
engine oil, unless otherwise specified.
The following listed fasteners require the use of a
calibrated manual torque wrench.
Fasteners noted by a star * require retorque after
engine run-in.

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS FOR CRITICAL FASTENERS

CRITICAL FASTENERS

Torque
Fastener Name Lb-Ft N•m
AIR COMPRESSOR
Air Compr. Coupling to Air Compr. Retaining Nut 60 81
Air Compr. to Cyl. Block Mounting Screw 80 (Dry) 108 (Dry)
AUXILIARY DRIVE
Aux. Shaft Gear Retaining Nut (See “NOTE 1 — AUXILIARY SHAFT GEAR 300 (Dry) 405 (Dry)
RETAINING NUT INSTALLATION” on page 328.)
Aux. Shaft Thrust Washer to Block Screw 15 20
Aux. Shaft Hole Cover Stud Nut 40 55
BRAKE COMPONENTS — JACOBS
Oil Supply Screw 4-6 5-8
Jake Brake Housing Hold-Down Screw 45 61
Rocker Arm Adjusting Screw Jam Nut 40 55
Cyl. Head Cover Mounting Screw 16 22
Slave Piston Adjusting Screw Jam Nut 25 34
Yoke Adjusting Screw Nut (locknut on actuator pin screw) 33 44
CAMSHAFT
Camshaft Thrust Washer to Cyl. Block Screw 15 20
CONNECTING ROD
Connecting Rod Screw Angle Torque (Rods utilizing M14 threads, and cap- 30 + 90° 41 + 90°
to-rod alignment sleeves)
Connecting Rod Screw (Rod utilizing M16 threads, and no cap-to-rod 150 203
alignment sleeves)

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SPECIFICATIONS
Torque
Fastener Name Lb-Ft N•m
CRANKSHAFT
Vibration Damper Hub to Crank Screw 360 490
Vibration Damper to Hub Screw 45 61
CYLINDER BLOCK
Main Bearing Capscrew (See “NOTE 2 — MAIN BEARING CAP 210 285
INSTALLATION” on page 328.)
Cylinder Block Main Brg. Cap Buttress Screw (See “NOTE 2 — MAIN 95 128
BEARING CAP INSTALLATION” on page 328.)
CYLINDER HEAD
Cylinder Head Capscrew* (See “NOTE 3 — CYLINDER HEAD TORQUING” 205 278
on page 328.)
Cylinder Head Cover Screw* 16 22
Inlet Manifold to Cyl. Head Screw 40 55
ELECTRONIC UNITS
EECU to Cyl. Block Mtg. Screw 31 42
EECU Isolating Studs 18 24
EECU Mounting Nuts 15 20
EECU Cooling Plate Screw 12 16
Electronic Unit Pump Terminal Screw 13 lb-in ± 2 lb-in 1.5 ± 0.2
Electronic Unit Pump to Cyl. Block Screw 42 57
FAN DRIVE
Fan Drive Pulley to Hub Screw 25 34
Poly-V Belt Tensioner Mounting Screw 40 55
FLYWHEEL, FLYWHEEL HOUSING AND CLUTCH
Flywheel Hsg. to Cylinder Block Screw 170 230
Flywheel to Crankshaft Screw 185 250
Clutch to Flywheel Mounting Screw 40 55
Transmission to Flywheel Hsg. Screw 40 55
FUEL SYSTEM
Fuel Filter Brkt. to Inlet Mfld. Screw 35 47
Fuel Supply Gallery Fitting Locknut 27 37
Fuel Return Gallery Ftg. (Check Valve) Locknut 27 37
Fuel Supply Pump to Cyl. Block Screw 40 55
INJECTOR NOZZLE AND NOZZLE FUEL INLET TUBE
Inj. Nozzle Holder Hold-Down Screw 45 61
Noz. Fuel Inlet Tube Clamp Screw to Cyl. Head 35 47
Noz. Fuel Inlet Tube Nut at Cylinder Head 25 34
Noz. Fuel Inlet Tube Nut at EUP 25 34
OIL COOLER – Bundle-Type
Oil Cooler Fitting to Water Pump Mounting Screw 60 81
Oil Cooler Oil Inlet and Outlet Tube Flange Mounting Screw 40 55
Oil Cooler/Oil Filter Fitting to Oil Filter Mounting Adapter Screw 40 55

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SPECIFICATIONS
Torque
Fastener Name Lb-Ft N•m
Oil Cooler Water Inlet and Water Outlet Ftg. to Oil Cooler Screw 20 27
OIL COOLER – Plate-Type
Oil Cooler Tube to Water Pump (MR Model Stud) 20 27
Oil Cooler Tube to Water Pump 40 55
Oil Cooler to Brkt. 20 27
Oil Cooler/Oil Filter Brkt. Fittings 1/4 NPT (Turbo, REPTO) 12 16
Oil Cooler/Oil Filter Brkt. to Cylinder Block 40 55
OIL FILTER
Centrifugal Oil Filter Drain Fitting Stud Nut 40 55
Centrifugal Oil Filter Mounting Adapter 150 203
Centri-Max Plus Spindle (LSR) 15 20
Centri-Max Plus Cover (LSR) 15 20
Oil Filter Pedestal to Cyl. Block Screw 60 81
Oil Filter Relief Valve Plunger Spring Cap 100 135
Oil Filter Adapter to Oil Cooler Brkt. Screw 40 55
OIL PAN
Oil Pan Drain Plug 55 75
Oil Pan to Cyl. Block Fastener (8 mm Screw) 23 31
Oil Pan to Cyl. Block Shoulder Bolt/Stud 15 20
OIL PUMP
Oil Pump Cover to Housing Screw 15 20
Oil Pump to Cyl. Block Mtg. Screw 40 55
Oil Pump Shaft Driven Gear Retaining Nut 60 81
Oil Pump Inlet Ftg. to Oil Pump Hsg. Screw 35 47
Oil Pump Pressure Relief Valve Cap 80 108
PISTON COOLING
Piston Cooling Nozzle to Cyl. Block Screw 15 20
SENSORS (FOR DASH DISPLAY)
Coolant Temp. (1/2 NPT, Side Mount on Water Manifold) 23 31
Oil Temp. (1/4 NPT, Mount on Oil Filter Pedestal 18 24
Oil Temp. (1/2 NPT, Side Mount on Oil Pan) 23 31
SENSORS (V-MAC III)
Ambient Air Temperature (1/2 NPT) 23 31
Boost Air Temperature (M16 x 2) 28 38
Coolant Temperature (3/8 NPT, Rear Mount on Water Manifold) 23 31
Fuel Temperature (3/8 NPT) 23 31
Oil Pressure (M10 x 1.5) 12 16
Engine Speed & Position (Flywheel Hsg. and Engine Front Cover) 7 10
TIMING GEAR COVER (ENGINE FRONT COVER)
Breather Mounting Screws 15 20
Timing Cover and Frt. Support Brkt. to Cyl. Block Screw 70 95

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SPECIFICATIONS
Torque
Fastener Name Lb-Ft N•m
Timing Cover to Cyl. Block Screw 40 55
TURBO AND EXHAUST MANIFOLD
Turbo to Exhaust Manifold Stud Nut 40 55
Turbo Oil Inlet Tube to Turbo Screw 15 20
Turbo Oil Drain Tube to Turbo Screw 15 20
Exh. Mfld. to Cyl. Head Stud (Install with Loctite® 272. See “NOTE 4 — 20 (Dry) 27 (Dry)
EXHAUST MANIFOLD TORQUING” on page 328.)
Exh. Mfld. to Cyl. Head Stud Nut (12 mm Full Threaded Stud, See 80 109
“NOTE 4 — EXHAUST MANIFOLD TORQUING” on page 328)
Oil Fill/Turbo Drain to Block Screw 40 55
VALVE ROCKER ARM
Valve Rocker Arm Bracket to Cylinder Head Screw 40 55
Valve Rocker Arm Adjusting Screw Jam Nut 40 55
Valve Yoke Adjusting Screw Jam Nut (See “NOTE 5 — VALVE YOKE 33 45
SETTING” on page 328.)
Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Locating Screw 23 31
WATER MANIFOLD AND WATER PUMP
Water Pump Shaft Locknut 80 108
Water Manifold to Cylinder Head Screw 33 44
Water Pump Housing to Cylinder Block Screw 60 81
Water Pump Cover to Water Pump Hsg. Screw 15 20
MISCELLANEOUS
Alternator Mtg. Stud Nut 70 95
Coolant Conditioner Adapter/Thermostat Housing Mounting Screw 15 20
Heat Shield-to-Cylinder Block Mounting Studs 15 20
Heat Shield Mounting Nuts 15 20
Heat Shield Standoff Studs 18 24
Hydraulic Steering Pump to Engine Front Cover Stud Nut 40 55
Idler Gear Hub to Cyl. Block Screw 70 95
Oil Dipstick Guide Tube Compression Nut 24 33

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SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS FOR HOSE CLAMPS

HOSE CLAMPS (SEE “NOTE 6 — HOSE CLAMP INSTALLATION POSITIONING INFORMATION” ON PAGE 328)
Torque
Fastener Name Lb-In N•m
For Standard SAE J536 Type F Hose Clamps
Air Inlet Systems 38 4
Oil Drain Systems 28 3
Water or Coolant Systems 28 3
Hi-Torque Heavy-Duty Worm Clamp 80 9
T-Bolt Type Hose Clamp 50 6

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS FOR PIPE PLUGS

PIPE PLUGS (SEE “NOTE 7 — PIPE PLUG SEALING” ON PAGE 328)

Torque
Pipe Plug Size Lb-Ft N•m
1/8 NPT 6 8
1/4 NPT 18 24
3/8 NPT 23 31
1/2 NPT 23 31
3/4 NPT — Cylinder Head 55 68
3/4 NPT — Other 35–65 48–88
1 NPT 43 58
1-1/4 NPT 75 101

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SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS FOR ENGINE-MOUNTED SENSORS

E-TECH™ ENGINE-MOUNTED SENSORS

Description Sensor and Sensor Mounting Hardware Sensor Threads Mounting Torque
V-MAC III Engine Speed 64MT348M sensor and 505GC28 P15 and None 7 lb-ft (10 N•m)
Sensor P30 shims, as required. Sensor is retained
by one 66AM3 capscrew with M6 x 1.0
metric threads.
V-MAC III Fuel 64MT2103 sensor only 3/8-inch NPT English 23 lb-ft (31 N•m)
Temperature Sensor pipe threads
V-MAC III Oil Pressure 64MT2114 sensor only 1/8-inch NPT English 12 lb-ft (16 N•m)
Sensor pipe threads
V-MAC III Boost Air 64MT2102 sensor only (no washer 1/2-inch NPT English 23 lb-ft (31 N•m)
Temperature Sensor required; replaces sensor P/N 64MT2111M pipe threads
sensor and washer P/N 57AM5)
V-MAC III Boost 46MT2101 1/4-inch NPT 18 lb-ft (24 N•m)
Pressure Sensor
(Optional and Electronic
Dash)
Ambient Air Temperature 64MT2118M 1/2-inch NPT English 23 lb-ft (31 N•m)
Sensor (Mounted on pipe threads
front of chassis)
Dash Gauge Coolant 64MT2112M sensor only 1/2-inch NPT English 23 lb-ft (31 N•m)
Temperature Sensor pipe threads
V-MAC III Coolant 64MT2103 sensor only 3/8-inch NPT English 23 lb-ft (31 N•m)
Temperature Sensor pipe threads
V-MAC III Engine 64MT348M sensor and 505GC28 P15 and None 7 lb-ft (10 N•m)
Position Sensor P30 shims, as required. Sensor is retained
by one 66AM3 capscrew with M6 x 1.0
metric threads.
Dash Gauge Oil 64MT2112M (Sensor mounts in oil pan) 1/2-inch NPT English 23 lb-ft (31 N•m)
Temperature Sensor pipe threads
(Standard Dash)
Non-Current
Dash Gauge Oil 64MT2113M (Sensor mounts in oil pan) 1/2-inch NPT English 23 lb-ft (31 N•m)
Temperature Sensor pipe threads
(Electronic Dash)
Non-Current
Dash Gauge Oil 64T2116 (Sensor mounts in oil filter 3/8-inch NPT English 20 lb-ft (27 N•m)
Temperature Sensor pedestal) pipe threads
(Standard Dash)
Current Production
Dash Gauge Oil 64MT2103 (Sensor mounts in oil filter 3/8-inch NPT English 20 lb-ft (27 N•m)
Temperature Sensor pedestal) pipe threads
(Electronic Dash)
Current Production

Overtorquing a sensor or sensor mounting screw

can result in sensor breakage or thread damage.

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SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS FOR NON-CRITICAL FASTENERS
PROPERTY CLASS 8.8
Tightening Torques
Size (mm) Pitch Lb-Ft N•m
6 0.75 6 8
6 1.00 6 8
8 1.00 15 20
8 1.25 14 19
10 1.25 30 41
10 1.50 28 38
12 1.25 55 75
12 1.75 50 68
14 1.50 86 117
14 2.00 80 109
16 1.50 133 180
16 2.00 124 168
18 1.50 193 262
18 2.50 172 233
20 1.50 270 366
20 2.50 244 331
22 1.50 365 495
22 2.50 332 450
24 2.00 459 622
24 3.00 421 571
27 2.00 666 903
27 3.00 618 838
30 2.00 928 1258
30 3.50 838 1136
33 2.00 1250 1695
33 3.50 1140 1546
36 3.00 1551 2103
36 4.00 1465 1986

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SPECIFICATIONS
PROPERTY CLASS 9.8
Tightening Torques
Size (mm) Pitch Lb-Ft N•m
6 0.75 7 10
6 1.00 6 8
8 1.00 16 22
8 1.25 15 20
10 1.25 33 45
10 1.50 31 42
12 1.25 59 80
12 1.75 54 73
14 1.50 94 127
14 2.00 87 118
16 1.50 144 195
16 2.00 135 183
18 1.50 210 285
18 2.50 187 254
20 1.50 293 397
20 2.50 264 358
22 1.50 395 536
22 2.50 360 488
24 2.00 498 675
24 3.00 456 618
27 2.00 722 979
27 3.00 669 907
30 2.00 1005 1363
30 3.50 908 1231
33 2.00 1355 1837
33 3.50 1235 1674
36 3.00 1681 2279
36 4.00 1587 2152

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SPECIFICATIONS
PROPERTY CLASS 10.9
Tightening Torques
Size (mm) Pitch Lb-Ft N•m
6 0.75 9 12
6 1.00 8 11
8 1.00 21 29
8 1.25 20 27
10 1.25 42 57
10 1.50 40 54
12 1.25 76 103
12 1.75 69 94
14 1.50 120 163
14 2.00 111 151
16 1.50 184 250
16 2.00 172 233
18 1.50 268 363
18 2.50 239 324
20 1.50 374 507
20 2.50 337 457
22 1.50 505 685
22 2.50 460 624
24 2.00 636 862
24 3.00 583 790
27 2.00 922 1250
27 3.00 855 1159
30 2.00 1284 1741
30 3.50 1159 1571
33 2.00 1730 2346
33 3.50 1578 2140
36 3.00 2146 2910
36 4.00 2027 2748

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SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATION FOOTNOTES NOTE 4 — EXHAUST MANIFOLD TORQUING

NOTE 1 — AUXILIARY SHAFT GEAR Torque exhaust manifold nuts to 35 lb-ft (47 N•m)
RETAINING NUT INSTALLATION in a top-to-bottom sequence. Retorque to 80 lb-ft
(109 N•m) following the same top-to-bottom
r A new nut has pre-applied thread locker. No sequence.
degreasing of a new nut is recommended.
However, degrease shaft threads thoroughly
with Loctite® Primer-T, or equivalent, prior to
nut installation. On some E-Tech™ engines, the exhaust
r It is acceptable to reuse an auxiliary drive manifold-to-cylinder head stud hole may be
gear retaining nut. If reusing a nut, the nut drilled deep enough to allow the stud to enter the
threads, as well as the shaft threads, must push rod bore. In these instances, the 20 lb-ft
also be thoroughly cleaned with Loctite® (27 N•m) torque may not be reached until the
Primer-T, or equivalent, and Loctite® 277 stud contacts the push rod. In all cases, a stud
used on the nut and shaft threads. protrusion of 1.75 inch (44.45 mm) must be
maintained.
NOTE 2 — MAIN BEARING CAP
INSTALLATION
NOTE 5 — VALVE YOKE SETTING
Main bearing cap assembly shall be performed in
the following steps: 1. Push down on the slipper face of yoke. Turn
down yoke adjusting screw until it contacts
1. Buttress screws installed finger-tight in order outboard valve stem tip, as sensed by light
to align the hole in the block and the hole in drag on adjusting screw.
the main bearing cap.
2. Turn adjusting screw an additional
2. Main bearing capscrews torqued. 60 degrees (1/6 turn) clockwise.
3. Buttress screws torqued. 3. Holding yoke adjusting screw in this
position, lock jam nut.
NOTE 3 — CYLINDER HEAD TORQUING
Cylinder head assembly and torquing is to be NOTE 6 — HOSE CLAMP INSTALLATION
performed as follows: POSITIONING INFORMATION

1. Oil all cylinder head capscrew bosses, The band of any hose clamp in all installations
capscrew threads and washers with engine should be a minimum of 0.090 inch (2.3 mm) from
oil prior to assembly. Do not oil threads in the end of the hose and must be clear of tube
cylinder block. Using torque wrench bead.
J 24407, or equivalent, tighten capscrews to
specification in three stages on any one NOTE 7 — PIPE PLUG SEALING
head in the proper sequence, as shown in
the Engine Reassembly procedures section. All pipe plugs must be sealed using Loctite® PST
pipe thread sealant with Teflon®, or equivalent.
a. Initially, torque all capscrews in
sequence to 50 lb-ft (68 N•m).
NOTE 8 — CYLINDER SLEEVE ID
b. Tighten all capscrews in sequence to
125 lb-ft (170 N•m). Cylinder sleeve ID may be 4.872 inch
(123.749 mm) minimum at top of sleeve due to
c. Tighten all capscrews in sequence to close-in from press fit.
the final torque value of 205 lb-ft
(278 N•m).
NOTE 9 — REAR SEAL BORE RADIAL
2. After run-in procedure, in sequence, back off RUNOUT
each capscrew individually until free. Then
retorque same capscrew to 205 lb-ft Runout is to be checked with an alignment bar
(278 N•m). installed through the cylinder block main bearing
bores.

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SPECIFICATIONS
E-TECH™ ENGINE LUBRICANT
AND SEALANT
SPECIFICATIONS All genuine MACK cylinder head gaskets are
precoated and do not require any type of sealing
Use only the following recommended sealing compound. Before installing new gaskets,
compounds and lubricants. degrease both gasket sealing surfaces to avoid
leaks.

Location Sealant or Lubricant

Camshaft gear assembly Loctite® 609
Cup plugs/threaded plugs Loctite® 277 or equivalent/Teflon® thread sealer
Injection nozzle holder inserts (upper and lower end) Loctite® 620
Chassis-mounted charge air cooling system (core sealing) Dow Corning® No. 1200 primer, Dow Corning® RTV 734
adhesive (clear), and naphtha solvent or equivalent
Cylinder sleeve seat MACK Silastic (RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant) part No.
342SX32
Oil filter sealing gasket Clean engine oil
Holding metal parts in place MACK MG-C grease or petroleum jelly (Vaseline®)
Valve stems and guides Dow Corning® BR2 Plus Multi-Purpose Grease
Engine front cover (timing gear cover) MACK Silastic (RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant) part No.
342SX32
Engine parts, fasteners (sides and threads), and washers Clean engine oil
Exhaust manifold studs Loctite® 272 high temperature thread sealer
Oil cooler assembly Permatex® gasket sealer
Oil cooler assembly O-ring Drydene® No. 4000
O-rings (except as noted) MACK O-ring lubricant part No. 243SX41
Sensor, engine oil pressure Sealing compound on threads
Sensor, intake manifold temperature
Sensor, coolant temperature
Sensor, coolant level
Crankshaft flange and wear ring Loctite® 609
Turbocharger mounting nuts Fel Pro C5A
Centri-Max® PLUS Spindle Threads Loctite® 271

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SPECIFICATIONS
FASTENER TORQUE Proper installation is as important as the selection
of the correct fastener. Improperly installing a
Fastener Selection and Installation correct fastener is just as bad as using an
incorrect one. Undertightening and overtightening
Selection and correct installation of threaded
both result in an improperly installed fastener.
fasteners are essential parts of any assembly or
When threaded fasteners are tightened, a slight
rebuild procedure. Fasteners hold much of a
stretching of the fastener occurs, and it is this
vehicle together. If a fastener fails to do its job
stretching that binds the assembly together. If too
properly, it can cause a minor problem such as a
little tightening occurs, the slight stretching does
loose mirror, or a large problem, such as loss of
not happen, and the joint is not clamped securely.
steering control.
If too much tightening occurs, the fastener will be
Because there are so many styles of fasteners, in excessively stretched, causing narrowing of the
various sizes and quality grades, a mechanic fastener and possibly breaking. Correct and
must have a working familiarity with the fasteners consistent use of a torque wrench ensures the
commonly used in vehicles. Only in this way can fasteners are properly tightened, and clamping
the correct selection and installation of the proper the pieces of the assembly together.
fastener be ensured. Each fastener is intended to
do a particular job, and is selected by the vehicle
manufacturer for its suitability for that job.
335

Figure 335 — Fastener Grading System

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SPECIFICATIONS
Fastener Sizes and Types The pitch of metric fasteners is measured by
determining the millimeters per thread. For
The first and most important fact that the example, a bolt with 0.8 pitch would have 125
mechanic must know about a fastener is whether complete threads in a 100-millimeter section
it is a U.S. (Inch System) or a metric thread. Next, (100 mm divided by 125 threads equals 0.8), and
the size of the fastener, which is usually a bolt with 1.0 pitch would have 100 threads in a
determined by the diameter of the shank, the 100-millimeter section. Pitch may be measured
length of the fastener, which is usually measured directly, using a ruler and counting the threads.
from the bottom of the head to the end of the Also, thread pitch gauges are available for both
thread, and the pitch of the threads. U.S. and metric threads, which make it easy to
check the pitch of a fastener.
The pitch of U.S. (Inch System) fasteners is
measured by determining the number of threads In the U.S. system, a typical designation would
per inch. The two pitches commonly used in be: 7/16-20 x 1. This describes a bolt that is
vehicles are coarse thread, officially called 7/16 inch in diameter, has 20 threads per inch,
Unified National Coarse (UNC), and fine thread, and is one inch long. The metric system is similar.
officially called Unified National Fine (UNF). A typical metric designation would be: 10 x 0.8 x
336
25 mm. This describes a bolt that is 10 mm in
diameter, has a thread pitch of 0.8 (0.8 mm per
thread), and is 25 mm long.
337

Figure 337 — Flanged Capscrew

Figure 336 — Fastener Dimensions

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NOTES

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SCHEMATICS & DIAGRAMS

SCHEMATICS & DIAGRAMS

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SCHEMATICS & DIAGRAMS

ENGINE SYSTEM SCHEMATICS (FLUIDS FLOW)
Cooling System Flow Diagram
338

Figure 338 — E-Tech™ Cooling Circuit

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SCHEMATICS & DIAGRAMS

Lubrication System Flow Diagram
339

Figure 339 — E-Tech™ Oil Flow Schematic

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SCHEMATICS & DIAGRAMS

Fuel System Flow Diagram
340

Figure 340 — E-Tech™ Fuel System

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SPECIAL TOOLS & EQUIPMENT

SPECIAL TOOLS & EQUIPMENT

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SPECIAL TOOLS & EQUIPMENT

E-TECH™ ENGINE SPECIAL TOOLS
Special Tools for Engine Overhaul

Tool No. Description

814 Midget Seal Tool
00-18238 Jacobs Slave Piston Tool
014177 Jacobs Thickness Gauge, 0.085 inch (2.16 mm)
018781 Jacobs Thickness Gauge, 0.080 inch (2.03 mm)
021327 Jacobs Thickness Gauge, 0.100 inch (2.54 mm)
022001 Jacobs Thickness Gauge, 0.060 inch (1.52 mm)
945-6041 Connecting Rod Fixture (Sweeney)
HT77136 Valve Seat Insert Counterbore
J 2619-01 Slide Hammer
J 4558-O1 Flywheel Remover
J 5347-B Dial Bore Gauge
J 5853-C Torque Wrench (3/8 DR, 0-600 IN)
J 5902-01 Cylinder Hone and Glaze Breaker
J 6125-1B Slide Hammer (5/16-18 thread with 3/8-16 adapter)
J 6692-B Cylinder Compression Gauge
J 7872 Magnetic Base Indicator Tool
J 8092 Universal Driver Handle (threaded 3/4-10)
J 21428-01 Camshaft Bushing Remover and Installer Set
J 21588 Injector Gasket Retriever
J 21834-4A Two Jaw Adjustable Puller
J 22738-02 Universal Spring Tester, Model MST 50
J 23442 Piston Ring Compressor
J 23775-01 Torque Wrench (100–600 lb-ft)
J 24406 Torque Wrench (15–100 lb-ft)
J 24407 Torque Wrench (30–250 lb-ft)
J 24783 Fuel/Oil Filter Wrench (spin-on)
J 25026-A Flywheel Lifting Sling
J 26589 Nozzle Insert Carbon Reamer
J 26637-A Thermostat Seal Installer
J 26948 Depth Gauge
J 29075-B Fuel Injection Nozzle Tester (use with J 42639 Adapter Set)
J 29109 Engine Stand
J 29294-B Valve Spring Keeper Remover
J 29296 Valve Yoke Guide Pin Installer
J 29297 Nozzle Sleeve Installer
J 29510 Keystone Piston Ring Groove Gauge
J 29539-15 Top Dead Center Indicator Metric Adapter
J 29539-A Top Dead Center (TDC) Indicator

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SPECIAL TOOLS & EQUIPMENT

Tool No. Description
J 29600-C Fire Ring Groove Cutter
J 29653-A Ultrasonic Nozzle Cleaner
J 29880 Nozzle Sleeve Extractor
J 34046-A Compression Gauge Adapter Set
J 34046-5 Compression Tester Metric Adapter (used with J 34046-A)
J 34684 Cylinder Head Core Plug Installer (13/16 inch)
J 34687 Cylinder Head Core Plug Installer (1-1/16 inch)
J 35529 Wear Ring and Seal Installer
J 37077 Position Sensor
J 37093 Injection Nozzle Puller
J 37481 Valve Guide Reamer (3/8-inch diameter)
J 37482 Valve Guide Remover (3/8 inch)
J 37712 Flywheel Housing/Timing Cover Locating Pin Driver
J 37713 Camshaft Bushing Installation Removal Kit (use with J 21428-01 Kit)
J 37715-A Crankshaft Front Seal Installer
J 37715-2 Crankshaft Front Seal Installation Spacer (use with J 37715-A Front Seal Installer)
J 37716-A Rear Seal Installer
J 37716-B Crankshaft Rear Seal Installer
J 37717 Connecting Rod Bushing Remover/Installer
J 37718 Piston Pin Burnishing Broach
J 37719 Fire Ring Groove Cutter
J 37720-C Tappet Holders
J 37721-A Piston Cooling Nozzle Spray Position Set (for 1989/1990 production)
J 37809 Valve Guide Installer (3/8 inch)
J 38048 Engine Stand Adapter Plate
J 38586 Valve Seat Installation Set
J 38587-A Engine Barring Socket
J 38880 Wear Ring Installer
J 39045 Two-Piece Piston Cooling Nozzle Aimer (for 1991 and later production)
J 39258-A Engine Pre-Luber
J 39460 Valve Stem Seal Removal Tool (3/8 in.)
J 39500-B A/C Recovery & Recycling Unit (R-134a)
J 41071 Air Compressor Coupling Holding Wrench
J 41251-B Belt Tension Gauge
J 41461 Camshaft Removal/Installation Tool
J 41473 Charge Air Cooler Tester
J 41682 Camshaft Removal/Installation Guide
J 41683 Valve Roller Follower H-Ring Installer
J 42185 Belt Tension Gauge
J 42377 Camshaft Bushing Remover/Installer (use with J 21428-01 Cam Bushing Remover/
Installer Set)
J 42425 Valve Lifter/Roller Follower Magnetic Retainers (use with top rods from J 37720-B Tappet
Holder Kit)

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SPECIAL TOOLS & EQUIPMENT

Tool No. Description
J 42426 Valve Roller Follower H-Ring Remover (use with J 6125-1B Slide Hammer)
J 42453 Valve Seal Installer
J 42490 Camshaft Cup Plug Installer (use with J 8092 Driver Handle)
J 42595 Fuel Injection Nozzle Sleeve Installer
J 42639 Fuel Injection Nozzle Tester Adapter Set (use with J 29075-B, Nozzle Tester)
J 42678 Fuel Injection Nozzle Sleeve Puller (use with J 2619-01 Slide Hammer)
J 42680 Fuel Injection Nozzle Combustion Gasket Seat Carbon Reamer
J 43887 Valve Spring Compressor
PT2210 Counterbore Tool
PT2210-14 Hex Key Wrench
PT2210-3A Counterbore Cutter Plate
PT5025 Universal Dial Depth Gauge
PT5025-11 3-inch Stylus Extension
PT 5027 Cylinder Head/Block Straightedge (36 in.)
PT5035 Flywheel Housing Dial Indicator Set
PT5035-1 Flywheel Housing Indicator Extension
PT6390 Valve Seat Extractor Kit (complete with collets)
PT6390-4 Collet
PT6391 Valve Seat Extractor Kit (basic)
PT6435 Cylinder Liner/Sleeve Puller (lubricate with extreme pressure lubricant J 23444-A)
PT6570-11 Dowelout, Extractor (7/16 inch)
PT6575 Basic Heavy-Duty Dowelout Kit
PT6587 Piston Ring Expander
PT7070-A Piston Ring Compressor

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SPECIAL TOOLS & EQUIPMENT

V-MAC III Special Tools

Tool No. Description

J 37490 Diesel Electronic Connector Replacement Kit
J 38351-B Serial Link Adapter Assembly
J 38480 Portable Printer (use with J 38500-1)
J 38500-1 Pro-Link Diagnostic Scan Tool
J 38500-60A Pro-Link Cable (to vehicle), 6-Pin Deutsch
J 38500-61 PC Interface Cable
J 38500-63 Serial Link Jumper (Deutsch-to-Deutsch)
J 38500-630A Pro-Link V-MAC III Diagnostic Cartridge
J 38500-1500C Pro-Link Multi-Protocol Cartridge
J 38581 Connector, Test Adapter Kit
J 38582 Terminal Crimping and Removal Tool Kit
J 38675B Pro-Link® 9000 Analyzer with V-MAC III Diagnostic Cartridge
J 38740 V-MAC Hub Barring Tool
J 38748 V-MAC Test Lead, Seven-Pin Connector
J 39200 Fluke Model 87 Digital Multi-Meter

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NOTES

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INDEX

INDEX

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INDEX
A CHASSIS-MOUNTED CHARGE AIR
COOLING TESTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
ABOUT THE E-TECH™ ENGINE AND ITS
CLEANING AND INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . 136
SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
CMCAC PRESSURE TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
ABOUT THIS MANUAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
CMCAC PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE . . . . 70
ADVISORY LABELS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
CMCAC TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . 67
AIR COMPRESSOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
CONNECTING ROD AND PISTON
AIR COMPRESSOR INSTALLATION . . . . . .267
BENCH PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
AIR COMPRESSOR REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . .117
CONNECTING ROD INSPECTION AND
AIR INLET MANIFOLD INSTALLATION . . . .276
RECONDITIONING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
AIR INLET MANIFOLD REMOVAL . . . . . . . .112
COOLANT CONDITIONER ELEMENT
ALTERNATOR INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . .281
REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
ALTERNATOR REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105
COOLANT CONDITIONER
ASSEMBLING CONNECTING ROD
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278
TO PISTON . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180
COOLANT CONDITIONER
AUTOMATICALLY TENSIONED
REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88
COOLANT MANIFOLD INSTALLATION . . . . 274
AUXILIARY SHAFT AND CAMSHAFT
COOLANT MANIFOLD REMOVAL . . . . . . . . 111
BENCH PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . .168
COOLING SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
AUXILIARY SHAFT BUSHING
COOLING SYSTEM COMPONENTS BENCH
REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148
PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
AUXILIARY SHAFT INSPECTION . . . . . . . .168
COOLING SYSTEM FLOW DIAGRAM . . . . . 334
AUXILIARY SHAFT INSTALLATION . . . . . . .245
CORE INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
AUXILIARY SHAFT REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . .127
CRANKCASE BREATHER FILTER
B CLEANING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
CRANKSHAFT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
BELT DRIVE SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24 CRANKSHAFT AND FLYWHEEL BENCH
BELT DRIVE SYSTEM TENSIONING . . . . . . .88 PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
BLOCK HEATER FOR FRONT (WATER CRANKSHAFT DOWEL PIN
PUMP) LOCATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40 REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
CRANKSHAFT FRONT SEAL
C INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248
CAMSHAFT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 CRANKSHAFT GEAR REPLACEMENT . . . . 163
CAMSHAFT BUSHING REPLACEMENT . . .145 CRANKSHAFT HUB INSTALLATION . . . . . . 249
CAMSHAFT CORE PLUG CRANKSHAFT INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .243 CRANKSHAFT INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . 222
CAMSHAFT IDLER GEAR CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .244 INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
CAMSHAFT INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . .168 CRANKSHAFT REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
CAMSHAFT INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . .242 CRANKSHAFT WEAR RING
CAMSHAFT LOBE LIFT CHECK . . . . . . . . . .66 INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
CAMSHAFT REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128 CUP PLUG REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
CAMSHAFT REPLACEMENT (ENGINE CYLINDER BLOCK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
IN CHASSIS) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .288 CYLINDER BLOCK COOLANT PASSAGE
CAMSHAFT TIMING AND LOBE LEAK CHECK — OUT OF CHASSIS . . . . 76
LIFT CHECKS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 CYLINDER BLOCK DOWEL PIN
CAMSHAFT TIMING CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . .66 REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
CENTRI-MAX® OIL FILTER CYLINDER BLOCK RECONDITIONING . . . 134
BREATHER VENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47 CYLINDER BLOCK/CYLINDER HEAD
CHANGES FROM THE EXISTING E-TECH™ COOLANT PASSAGES LEAK
SERVICE PROCEDURES MANUAL . . . . . .6 CHECK — IN CHASSIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72

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INDEX
CYLINDER HEAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 ENGINE FINAL PREPARATION AND
CYLINDER HEAD AND CYLINDER BLOCK OPERATIONAL CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
LEAK TEST PROCEDURE . . . . . . . . . . . .71 ENGINE INFORMATION PLATE . . . . . . . . . . 10
CYLINDER HEAD AND HEAD GASKET ENGINE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
CHECK — IN CHASSIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71 ENGINE INSTALLATION INTO
CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLY VEHICLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122 ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM . . . . . . . . 306
CYLINDER HEAD COOLANT PASSAGE ENGINE MODEL IDENTIFICATION . . . . . . . . 10
LEAK CHECK — OUT OF CHASSIS . . . .75 ENGINE OPERATIONAL CHECK . . . . . . . . 307
CYLINDER HEAD CUP PLUG ENGINE REASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .199 ENGINE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
CYLINDER HEAD FUEL PASSAGES LEAK ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER
CHECK — IN CHASSIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 IDENTIFICATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
CYLINDER HEAD GASKET . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 ENGINE SETUP AND ADJUSTMENTS . . . . 297
CYLINDER HEAD INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . .185 ENGINE SPEED AND POSITION SENSORS
CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION . . . . . . . .252 INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT . . . 304
CYLINDER HEAD OIL PASSAGE LEAK ENGINE SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS . . . . . . . . . 58
CHECK — OUT OF CHASSIS . . . . . . . . .74 ENGINE SYSTEM SCHEMATICS
CYLINDER HEAD OVERHAUL . . . . . . . . . . .181 (FLUIDS FLOW) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334
CYLINDER HEAD PIPE PLUG ENGINE WIRING HARNESS
REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200 INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269
CYLINDER SLEEVE COUNTERBORE . . . . .137 ENGINE WIRING HARNESS REMOVAL . . . 115
CYLINDER SLEEVE INSTALLATION . . . . . .152 E-TECH™ COMPONENT TORQUE
CYLINDER SLEEVE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . .135 SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319
E-TECH™ ENGINE DESIGN FEATURES . . . 14
E E-TECH™ ENGINE LUBRICANT AND
ELECTRICAL TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . .79 SEALANT SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . 329
ELECTRONIC UNIT PUMP (EUP) E-TECH™ ENGINE MECHANICAL
CALIBRATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .305 SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310
ELECTRONIC UNIT PUMP (EUP) E-TECH™ ENGINE SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . 338
INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .219 EXHAUST MANIFOLD INSTALLATION . . . . 255
ELECTRONIC UNIT PUMP (EUP) EXHAUST MANIFOLD REMOVAL . . . . . . . . 114
REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116 EXPLANATION OF NUMERICAL CODE . . . . . 5
ELECTRONIC UNIT PUMP (EUP)
F
REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286
ELECTRONIC UNIT PUMP FASTENER SELECTION AND
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .268 INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
ELECTRONIC UNIT PUMPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 FASTENER SIZES AND TYPES . . . . . . . . . . 331
ENGINE BRAKE CONTROL VALVE FASTENER TORQUE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .293 FILTER ELEMENT INSTALLATION . . . . . . . 306
ENGINE BRAKE TESTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78 FILTER ELEMENT REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99 FILTER ELEMENT REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . 89
ENGINE ECU INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . .280 FINAL TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
ENGINE ECU/COOLING PLATE FIRE RING GROOVE CUTTING . . . . . . . . . 185
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .266 FLYWHEEL HOUSING INSTALLATION . . . . 234
ENGINE ELECTRONIC CONTROL FLYWHEEL HOUSING REMOVAL . . . . . . . . 132
UNIT (EECU) AND COOLING PLATE FLYWHEEL INSPECTION AND
REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .115 RESURFACING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
ENGINE ELECTRONIC CONTROL FLYWHEEL INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . 240
UNIT (EECU) REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . .105 FLYWHEEL REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
FRONT COVER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

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INDEX
FRONT COVER INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . .247 L
FRONT COVER REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . .126
LOW-PRESSURE FUEL SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . 32
FUEL FILTER ADAPTER ASSEMBLY
LUBRICATION SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .278
LUBRICATION SYSTEM BENCH
FUEL FILTER ADAPTER ASSEMBLY
PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107
LUBRICATION SYSTEM FLOW
FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . .93
DIAGRAM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335
FUEL FILTRATION SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
FUEL INJECTION TIMING . . . . . . . . . . . . . .297 M
FUEL INJECTOR ASSEMBLIES . . . . . . . . . . .36
FUEL INJECTOR NOZZLE CLEANING . . . .221 MAIN BEARING CAP INSTALLATION . . . . . 224
FUEL NOZZLE INLET TUBE ASSEMBLY MAIN BEARING CAP REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . 133
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .269 MANUALLY TENSIONED SYSTEM . . . . . . . . 88
FUEL NOZZLE INLET TUBE ASSEMBLY MATERIAL AND DIMENSIONAL DATA . . . . 311
REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .113 MOUNTING ENGINE IN STAND . . . . . . . . . 103
FUEL SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .307
FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS BENCH N
PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .219 NOZZLE HOLDER ASSEMBLY
FUEL SYSTEM FLOW DIAGRAM . . . . . . . . .336 INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257
NOZZLE HOLDER REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . 121
G
GEAR TRAIN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 O
GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . .67, 89, 161 OIL COOLER AND OIL FILTER MOUNTING
GENERAL BRACKET ASSEMBLY REMOVAL . . . . 101
INSTRUCTIONS . . . . .96, 99, 222, 284, 308 OIL COOLER AND OIL FILTER MOUNTING
GLOSSARY OF TERMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 BRACKET INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . 272
OIL COOLER ASSEMBLY
H RECONDITIONING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL INJECTION OIL COOLER RECONDITIONING . . . . . . . . 215
LINES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36 OIL COOLER-TO-WATER PUMP INLET
HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL SYSTEM . . . . . . . . .35 LINE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280
H-RING REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .143 OIL COOLER-TO-WATER PUMP INLET
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL LINE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80 OIL FILL TUBE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . 265
OIL FILL TUBE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
I OIL FILTER ELEMENT REPLACEMENT . . . . 90
OIL PAN INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250
IN-CHASSIS PART/COMPONENT
OIL PAN REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286
OIL PUMP INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246
INJECTION NOZZLE HOLDER INSERT
OIL PUMP RECONDITIONING . . . . . . . . . . . 211
REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .197
OIL PUMP REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
INLET AND EXHAUST VALVE
OPERATIONAL TESTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .181
INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206 P
INSTALLATION OF ELECTRONIC UNIT PUMP
PLUNGER SPRING AND SEAT . . . . . . .219 PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . 310
PIPE PLUG REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
J PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
ASSEMBLY REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
J-TECH™ ENGINE BRAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230

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INDEX
PISTON COOLING SPRAY NOZZLE V
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157
VALVE COVER AND SPACER
PISTON COOLING SPRAY NOZZLE
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264
REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134
VALVE COVER AND SPACER
PISTON INSPECTION AND CLEANING . . . .176
REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
PISTON RING REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . .177
VALVE GUIDE REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . 188
PLATE-TYPE OIL COOLER AND OIL FILTER
VALVE LIFTER H-RING INSTALLATION
MOUNTING BRACKET ASSEMBLY
CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .282
VALVE LIFTER INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . 242
POWER STEERING PUMP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
VALVE REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
PUSH ROD INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . .259
VALVE ROCKER ARM SHAFT BENCH
PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
R
VALVE ROCKER ARM SHAFT DISASSEMBLY
REBUILT ENGINE RUN-IN (WITHOUT/WITH ENGINE BRAKE) . . . . 206
PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .308 VALVE ROCKER ARM SHAFT REASSEMBLY
REMOVAL FROM VEHICLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96 (WITH J-TECH™ ENGINE BRAKE) . . . . 209
REMOVING ENGINE FROM ENGINE VALVE ROCKER ARM SHAFT REASSEMBLY
STAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .281 (WITHOUT ENGINE BRAKE) . . . . . . . . . 207
RESTRICTION PRESSURE TEST . . . . . . . . .69 VALVE SEAT INSERT REPLACEMENT . . . 191
ROCKER ARM AND ENGINE BRAKE VALVE SPRING INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . 196
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .261 VALVE TRAIN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
ROCKER ARM, VALVE YOKE AND PUSH VALVE YOKE, VALVE LASH AND ENGINE
ROD REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .119 BRAKE ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
ROCKER ARMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206 VALVE YOKE GUIDE PIN
RUN-IN CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .308 REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
VALVE YOKE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . 260
S VIBRATION DAMPER AND CRANKSHAFT
SAFETY INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 HUB REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
SERVICE PROCEDURES AND TOOL VIBRATION DAMPER HUB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
USAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 VIBRATION DAMPER INSTALLATION . . . . 249
SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67 V-MAC III . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
SPECIAL TOOLS FOR ENGINE V-MAC III DIAGNOSTICS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
OVERHAUL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .338 V-MAC III SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341
SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED . . . . . . .134, 181
SPECIFICATION FOOTNOTES . . . . . . . . . .328 W
WATER PUMP INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . 271
T WATER PUMP RECONDITIONING . . . . . . . 218
THERMOSTAT REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110 WATER PUMP REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
THERMOSTAT, HOUSING AND SEAL
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .276
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE . . . . . . . . . . . .83
TURBOCHARGER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .306
TURBOCHARGER INSTALLATION . . . . . . .270
TURBOCHARGER REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . .113

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NOTES

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 E-TECH™ ENGINE
SERVICE MANUAL
(Includes Left-Side Redesign)

PRINTED IN U.S.A.
5-106 © MACK TRUCKS, INC. 2000

BDC for engine manuals and specs

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