Fast Fish [A Cookbook]

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Also by Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison
Fast Entrées
Wok Fast
Fast Appetizers
Hot Chicken
Hot Pasta
Hot Barbecue
Hot Vegetables
Hot Wok
The Great Ribs Book
Text and photographs copyright © 2005 by Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison
Illustrations copyright © 2005 by Beverly Wilson

All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press,
an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com

Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Carpenter, Hugh.
Fast fish / Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison.
p. cm.
Summary: “The fourth book in the Fast series, featuring buying, storage, and cooking tips for fish,
along with more than 100 easy recipes for black cod (sablefish), catfish, halibut, salmon, snapper, sole,
swordfish, trout, and tuna”—Provided by publisher.
Includes index.
1. Cookery (Fish). 2. Quick and easy cookery. I. Sandison, Teri. II. Title.
TX747.C3375 2005
641.6’92—dc22 2004022455

Hardcover ISBN: 978-1-58008-648-6

eBook ISBN: 978-1-60774-667-6

Cover design by Beverly Wilson

v3.1
This book is lovingly dedicated to
Alex Levin and Susan Vogt
1941–2003.

Teachers, parents, lovers of life—

they lit the path
so the rest of us could see.
Introduction
Fish Tips
Cooking Techniques
Essential Equipment
Essential Pantry

Black Cod (Sablefish)

Catfish
Halibut
Salmon
Snapper
Sole
Swordfish
Trout
Tuna
Tartar Sauces, Salsas, and Relishes
Acknowledgments
Artist Credits
Index
Perfectly cooked fresh fish is a true taste sensation. With its slight firmness
and subtle, sweet taste, fish is as nicely accented by a squeeze of lemon or a
spoonful of tartar sauce as by a more complex salsa or sauce.

This book teaches you how to select the freshest fish, how to store it, and how
to determine when it is perfectly cooked. It also offers 100 simple, flavor-
intense recipes that will turn even the fish skeptic into a fish lover.

Fresh fish is fragile, it overcooks quickly, and it demands supervision. That is

why we usually cook fish for work-night meals and accompany it with
uncomplicated side dishes. Examples of easy accompaniments are lightly
charred flour tortillas, steamed rice, rice pilaf, roasted fingerling potatoes, hot
dinner rolls, or garlic bread. You could also do a quick-to-make salad or
vegetable dish. By keeping the dinner menu straightforward, there are no
distractions from the central fish entrée.

Fish consumption is on the rise, possibly because of its widely acknowledged

health benefits—it is rich in omega-3 fatty acids and low in fat. Eating fish has
been linked to alleviating depression, possibly preventing Type 2 diabetes,
and lowering the risks of heart disease and cancer. According to the U.S.
Commerce Department’s National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration,
Americans ate a record 16.3 pounds of fish and shellfish per person in 2003,
up from 15.6 pounds in 2002. The 2003 figure represents a 4 percent
increase. Over the last thirty years, fish consumption, both for dine-out and
retail sales, has shown a steady increase. Upscale markets offer increasing
varieties of fish, beautifully displayed and sold by knowledgeable staff. At the
same time, supermarket chains are moving toward prepackaged, case-ready
fish with extended shelf life improved by new, modified-atmosphere
packaging. Visit any market and you’ll be likely to find farm-raised striped
bass, sturgeon, and walleyed pike, in addition to farm-raised salmon, catfish,
and trout.

Along with the positive aspects of the wider availability of fresh fish, there
are also cautions to heed. The purity of all of our foods is in various stages of
being compromised. In the case of some fish, this is reflected by reports
showing contamination by mercury and other toxins. Mercury tends to
accumulate in the food chain: the higher on the chain, the greater the
concentration of mercury. But species rich in omega-3 fats also tend to be the
food chain’s higher-ups, and they include swordfish, mackerel, and tuna (but
so far salmon has tested very low for mercury). Putting the concerns about
trace elements and toxins into perspective, the American Heart Association,
in November 2002, re-emphasized its recommendation that adults eat at least
two servings of fish per week.

Environmental issues concerning fish are in constant flux. A species of fish

endangered a few years ago may be more plentiful today. A previously
pristine ocean area may now be degraded by industrial pollution. Commercial
salmon farmers are rushing to modify farming practices in response to public
criticism about feeding methods. It’s the responsibility of each of us to be
better informed and to demand complete information from food experts, food
retailers, and our government.
How to Use This Book
This book focuses on the nine most popular fish sold in the United States. But
there are dozens of other wonderful fish available. At the beginning of each
chapter you’ll find a list of other varieties of fish that can be substituted.

You’ll notice throughout this book our rules for fish: buy fresh, lower the heat
rather than raise it, and err on the side of undercooking (fish can always be
returned to the broiler, barbecue, or pan). Most of the recipes serve four, but
any of them can be cut in half or doubled.

If you are not entirely confident about cooking a particular fish, review the
chapter introduction first. It will only take a few minutes, and the information
can be surprisingly helpful. The section about cooking techniques provides
the foundation for the recipes, and we refer to this often throughout the book.
Essential Equipment surveys everything necessary for cooking fish as well as
gadgets that make recipe preparation quicker. And the Essential Pantry
reviews specialty items and the brands that are the flavor foundations for the
recipes.

Once you choose a recipe, read through the directions. Be sure to complete
all of the preparation steps included in the ingredient list (such as mincing
garlic or making a salsa featured in another chapter of the book); the recipe
directions assume you have completed these steps.
Hugh Carpenter and Teri Sandison
Choosing Fish
Because we live close to the California coast, we always buy fresh fish. But it’s
not true that “fresh” fish is always better than frozen fish. Deep-sea fishing
boats can hold fish at just above the freezing point for two weeks before the
fish is brought to shore and sent to market as “fresh fish.” New super-freezing
techniques that freeze fish at 76 degrees below zero can make it virtually
impossible to tell frozen from fresh. Are you aware, for example, that 50 to
60 percent of all sushi-grade fish in the United States is frozen at some point
in its journey from the ocean to the sushi counter?

Improper freezing is what gives frozen fish its bad reputation. Problems
include poor freezing techniques, or thawing and refreezing the fish at the
processing plant. The higher the fat content, the less adversely the fish is
affected by freezing. Fish that are the least affected by freezing are tuna,
black cod (sablefish), arctic char, and Chilean sea bass.

Once you know how to identify perfect fish, you’ll never have to ask the fish
expert what fish is the freshest. Perfect fish, whether whole or cut into steaks
or fillets, glistens; it has a glossy sheen on the surface. This gloss is caused by
a layer of mucus that protects the flesh. The layer of moisture evaporates with
time, and the gloss dulls to a brown, milky appearance.

Go to the best fish market or supermarket in your area. Notice the difference
in sheen, glossiness, and color between fresh fish and fish that has been in the
fish case for a few days. With fresh fish the light seems to reflect and bounce
as you view the fish from different angles. The flesh appears tightly connected,
with no areas of separation, and there is no liquid around the fish.

Perfect fish cut into fillets and steaks has no odor. If the fish has not been
prepackaged, ask your fish seller to let you examine the fish more closely. If it
doesn’t have a glossy sheen and has any odor, don’t buy it. If the fish is whole,
it should have clear eyes, bright red gills, firm flesh, and tightly adhering
scales.

FOR MORE
INFORMATION
We suggest you monitor the ever-
changing world of fish by consulting the
following websites:
www.mbayaq.org
www.noaa.gov/fisheries.html
www.seafoodchoices.org
Freezing and Thawing Fish
We’re opposed to freezing fresh fish at home. The home freezing process isn’t
quick enough and home freezers are not sufficiently cold to prevent the
texture of the fish from being compromised. Fish frozen at home and then
defrosted will always taste inferior to flawlessly fresh fish or fish that has been
commercially frozen and properly thawed by the market.

Frozen fish should be thawed overnight or throughout the day in the

refrigerator. The slower fish is thawed, the less adversely it is affected by the
freezing process. Never try to speed the process by thawing fish in the
microwave, in cold water, or on the kitchen counter. The texture will be badly
compromised and the fish will be a taste flop!

Storing Fish
Store fresh fish in the coldest environment possible without freezing. Ask the
market to place a bag of crushed ice next to the package of fish so that it
doesn’t warm during the trip home. Once at home, refrigerate the fish
immediately. If you are cooking the fish that day, keep it in its wrapping.

If the fish isn’t going to be cooked the day of purchase, remove the fish from
its package and wrap in plastic wrap. Cover the fish with a bag of ice and
refrigerate. The surface of the fish next to the ice will not freeze; rather,
because cold air descends, the layer of ice will cause the entire piece of fish to
be much colder than any of the surrounding foods in the refrigerator and it
will stay fresher longer.
If you live on the coast, always cook fish within three days of purchase. If
you live away from the coast, always cook the fish within two days of
purchase. It may not have begun to smell, but it is not perfect fish. At the end
of this time period, if you decide to go out to dinner or to cook something
else, cook the fish anyway. Just rub it with oil, salt, and pepper, and
microwave, broil, or barbecue it. Refrigerated, the cooked fish will stay in
flawless condition for three additional days. Use it for a cold entrée, break it
into small pieces for salads, or slice it thinly to make fish sandwiches.

Rinsing Fish
Among the experts, there is no agreement on whether or not fish should be
rinsed prior to preparation. Most food scientists feel that fish should be given
a brief rinsing. Along with most chefs, I prefer not to rinse fresh fish fillets
and steaks. Fresh fish is absorbent. When rinsed, it will absorb some of the
water. Then, when marinated, the fish will absorb less marinade because it is
already saturated with liquid. This is particularly true for flaky fish such as
salmon, halibut, and sea bass.

But doesn’t washing fish make it “safer” to eat? No. Bacteria that may be
present on fish is colorless and odorless. Rinsing fish does not remove all the
bacteria; they are killed during proper cooking. The bottom line: if the fish
looks as if it should be rinsed, it shouldn’t be bought.
Marinating Fish
Marinating fish before cooking accents its subtle flavors. A marinade can be
as simple as rubbing the fish with extra virgin olive oil, salt, pepper, and a
squeeze of lemon or using an oil and vinegar salad dressing.

Fish varies in its ability to absorb marinade. Flaky fish (salmon, halibut, sea
bass, and cod, for example) absorb a marinade within a matter of minutes.
Firm fish (swordfish, tuna, and shark, for example) have a dense texture; the
marinade will penetrate only slightly into the fish.

Marinate all fish for five to fifteen minutes—no longer—and always in the
refrigerator. If the marinade has salt, longer marinating will extract moisture
from the fish and cause the texture to become spongy. If the marinade
contains an acid such as lemon juice, longer marinating will “cook” the
surface of the fish.

Marinating fish for hours in a salty or high acid mixture is an essential

technique when creating raw fish dishes such as gravlox and ceviche.
However, these recipes are not fast and thus do not appear in this cookbook.

Flouring or Battering Fish

Battering fish is most commonly done when pan-frying. Coating the fish with
flour or a batter protects the fragile flesh from drying, turns the surface a
beautiful golden color, and gives the exterior a pleasing crunch.

For a thin protective layer for pan-frying: Moments before cooking, coat the
fish with flour, cornstarch, or dried powdered bread crumbs, shaking off all
excess. You can dust the fish on a plate, on paper towels, or inside a resealable
plastic bag. Immediately place the fish in the preheated pan.

For a thick protective coating for pan-frying, deep-frying, or roasting: Dust

the fish with white flour, shaking off the excess. Dip the fish in beaten egg.
Turn the fish over on a plate of dried bread crumbs or ground nuts, coating
evenly. Transfer the fish to a wire rack. Cook the fish immediately or
refrigerate and cook up to 6 hours later.
Determining Doneness
Most fish is perfectly cooked when the interior loses its opaque or raw
coloring. Tuna is an exception, since it should always be served with an
interior that ranges from raw to medium rare. Some cooks prefer slightly
undercooked fish so that the thickest part of the fish has not quite lost its
opaque coloring. This is a matter of personal preference.

Use one or a combination of any of the following techniques for determining

doneness. When in doubt, err on the side of undercooking fish. If the fish is
not fully cooked, it can always be returned to the barbecue, broiler,
microwave, or sauté pan. Overcooked fish is a taste disaster.

Using a knife and fork, try separating the flesh. The moment the fish begins
to flake when prodded with a fork, it’s done.

Using the blunt end of a bamboo chopstick, gently push on the fish. The fish
is perfectly cooked when the chopstick sinks easily into the interior of the
fish.