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vi c o n t en t s
Index 1100
CONTRIBUTORS
viii
list of co ntr ibutors ix
Security Council Resolution 687 (1991) and the law of treaties, demon-
strating the differences between treaty interpretation and the interpreta-
tion of Security Council resolutions and concluding that ‘[i]t was for the
Security Council, not one or more members of the “coalition of the
willing”, to determine whether there was a material breach [of
Resolution 687] … ’.
In conclusion, the present collection does fulfil the promise of unco-
vering the dynamics of the modern law of treaties and of determining
how particular instruments function within that system. I am convinced
that it will trigger further intra-disciplinary research and thus contribute
to solidify that tower of strength, the international treaty.
Bruno Simma
PREFACE AND ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Finola O’Sullivan has overseen the entire project to its ultimate conclu-
sion; her support has been invaluable to us, too, over these many years.
Our final expression of gratitude is to our authors, who produced a
series of first-rate essays that, we are confident, will make its mark on the
literature of treaties for a good while to come. They have also participated
in a process that, we hope, will put front and centre the importance of a
methodological commitment to the pursuit of research on the law of
treaties that takes on both the conceptual and contextual perspectives
explored in the chapters that follow. However, without exception, they
have also shown an immense patience with the progress of publication,
and that has meant much to us as editors of this work. The fact is that,
while we kept to the structure of our original vision for the project, as it
got under way, we gave in to various temptations to conscript new
authors and chapters to the cause, and this resulted in various delays,
but we believe the volume has been enriched immeasurably. And we took
frequent advantage of the editorial prerogative to probe contributors for
more detail on the themes and arguments being prepared for a wider
readership; the publication of this volume must provide them consider-
able respite that they no longer stand at risk of receiving our voluminous
and often very detailed prods and enquiries. That said, we were pro-
foundly encouraged when one of our contributors was moved to remark
at the London meeting of January 2013 that the extent of editorial
engagement with contributors and their contributions really meant that
this project had acquired a ‘soul’ of its own – that it stood apart from
other similar projects of collective endeavour.
This has all meant that the project has taken a while longer to come to
fruition, with chapters presented to us in their final form on a rolling
basis from October 2013 onwards. Contributors were subsequently
offered a chance to make limited updates to their chapters, but not all
of them were able to avail themselves of this opportunity. The nature of
the exercise has thus precluded us from setting a single deadline for the
law and material contained in each contribution, and we would ask
readers to bear this point in mind as they set to reading the chapters
that we are delighted to include in this volume.
MJB & DK
Nottingham, December 2017
ABBREVIATIONS
AC Appeal Cases
AFDI Annuaire Français de Droit
International
AJIL American Journal of International Law
AJIL Supp. Supplement of the American Journal of
International Law
ALR Australian Law Reports
African HRLJ African Human Rights Law Journal
Am. Pol. Sci. Rev. American Political Science Review
Am. Univ. Int’l L. Rev. American University International Law
Review
Ann. Digest Annual Digest of Public
International Law
Annual Rev. Earth & Planetary Sci. Annual Review of Earth and Planetary
Sciences
Asian J. WTO & Int’l. Health L. & Pol’y Asian Journal of World Trade
Organization and International
Health Law and Policy
Asian YbIL Asian Yearbook of International Law
Austrian Rev. Int’l & European L. Austrian Review of International and
European Law
BYbIL British Yearbook of International Law
Boston Coll. Int’l & Comp. L. Rev. Boston College International and
Comparative Law Review
Brooklyn JIL Brooklyn Journal of International Law
CETS Council of Europe Treaty Series
CLR Commonwealth Law Reports
CTS Consolidated Treaty Series
CYbELS Cambridge Yearbook of European Legal
Studies
California WILJ California Western International Law
Journal
xix
Discovering Diverse Content Through
Random Scribd Documents
Ground oystershell or
7
limestone
Dried milk 5
Salt (fine, sifted) 1
Total 100
As with the simpler ration, the mash should be kept before the
birds at all times, and the scratch can be hand-fed in troughs at the
rate of one-fifth of a pound per bird per day. Clean water should be
provided at all times. The same ingredients can be mixed and fed as
an all-mash ration with good results. The all-mash formula is as
follows:
BLACKHEAD
Lice may cause high mortality among young poults, those badly
infested gradually becoming weaker until they die. Head lice are the
most troublesome and are found close to the skin near the top of
the head, above and in front of the eyes, and under the throat.
Applying an insect powder, preferably sodium fluoride, when the hen
is set, is an easy method of preventing lice from getting a start
among poults. Apply the sodium fluoride among the leathers,
working it well down next to the skin, 1 pinch on the head, 1 on the
neck, 2 on the back, 1 on the breast, 1 below the vent, 1 at the base
of the tail, 1 on each thigh, and 1 scattered on the underside of each
wing when spread. If this treatment is not applied, hen-hatched
poults are almost certain to have lice.
If the hen has been treated in this manner before being set and
the poults are not exposed to infested stock or premises, they will
remain free from lice indefinitely. It is well, however, to examine the
poults occasionally and, if lice are found, to apply sodium fluoride
sparingly. It should not be applied until the poults are at least a
week old, and then only two very small pinches should be used.
Distribute one of these on the neck, the top of the head, and the
throat, and the other on the back and below the vent. After the
poults are old enough to roost, control lice by applying nicotine
sulphate solution in a thin line on the top surface of the roosts.
Repeat as often as necessary to keep down the lice and be sure that
each bird is exposed to the treatment. Sodium fluoride applied as
directed for delousing setting hens or as a dip will completely
eliminate all species of lice from mature stock.
The dipping method consists in immersing mature fowls in a
large tub of solution made by mixing 1 ounce or sodium fluoride to
each gallon of tepid water. Immerse the birds for only a few
seconds, raising the feathers at the same time to allow the dip to
penetrate to the skin. Dip the birds on a warm day, preferably in the
morning, so as to give them time to dry before night.
Destroy red mites in the roosting quarters by painting the under
side of the roosts and the roost supports with anthracene oil, crude
oil, crank-case oil, or any coal-tar disinfectant. Make the application
light but thorough, and do it preferably in the morning.
The fowl tick or blue bug is one of the worst pests of turkeys in
the Southwest. It can be controlled by the methods advised for
controlling red mites.
NATURAL INCUBATION
Hatching the eggs under turkey hens is widely practiced and is
often the most practical method. When the turkey hen becomes
broody and has remained consistently on the nest for 2 or 3 days,
she should be given her eggs. If several turkey hens are sitting at
the same time, care should be taken that each gets back into her
own nest. Nests are most conveniently arranged on the ground, in
boxes about 2 feet square or in barrels. If rats are a menace, the
nest should furnish protection against them and should always be
made proof against larger animals so that the turkey hens will not be
disturbed or the eggs destroyed. The nests should be flat and
shallow, as deep nests may result in crushed eggs or crushed baby
poults. Nests with damp sod bottoms and only a little straw to keep
the eggs from rolling into the corners are generally satisfactory.
Nesting batteries in which each hen is provided with a small
individual run so that she can get off and on the nest at will are very
good. With this method the only care necessary is to see that feed
and water are always before the hens and that each one remains
broody. If individual runs are not provided, the hens should be taken
off daily, allowed to exercise and eat, and then returned to their own
nests. Plenty of water to drink and clean, wholesome grain feed,
such as a mixture of wheat, oats, and corn, should be provided, and
fresh green feed or good alfalfa hay should be made available.
Turkey or chicken hens, before being set on turkey eggs, should
be treated with sodium fluoride, as previously directed.
ARTIFICIAL INCUBATION
Correct incubator temperatures are much the same for turkey
eggs as for chicken eggs, but the greater size of the turkey eggs
may necessitate some adjustment of the apparatus used in
measuring the temperature. This is true in nearly all kinds of
incubators except those of the forced-draft type. The relative
position of the thermometer in the egg chamber is important in the
accuracy with which it records the temperature. For hatching turkey
eggs the proper position of the thermometer is usually indicated in
the directions that are furnished by the manufacturer of the
incubator. As a general rule, with the bottom of the bulb 17/8 inches
above the egg tray, the thermometer should read 100.5° F. for the
first week, 101.5° the second, 102.5° the third, and 103° the last
week. Forced-draft incubators are usually run at about 99.5°.
Temperature can best be regulated, however, by using the
thermometer that goes with the machine, placing it in the position
recommended by the manufacturer, and then following the
manufacturer's instructions for hatching turkey eggs, making sure
that the egg trays do not sag.
Turkey eggs lose about 3.5 percent less moisture during
incubation than do chicken eggs, notwithstanding the fact that
turkey eggs require about 7 days longer to hatch. Excellent hatches
have been obtained when the loss of moisture based on the weight
of the eggs just before they were set, ranged within the following
limits: After 6 days of incubation, 2 to 8 percent; after 12 days of
incubation. 4.1 to 6 percent; after 18 days of incubation, 6.2 to 9
percent; and after 24 days of incubation, 9 to 12 percent.
On this basis, a dozen turkey eggs of normal size should lose
about 1 ounce for every 6 days of incubation. The air cells of turkey
eggs are smaller in proportion to the size of the eggs than are those
of chicken eggs because normal evaporation in turkey eggs during
incubation is considerably less than that in chicken eggs. When more
moisture is needed in the incubator it can be provided by putting in
water pans, or by placing burlap wicks in the pans. When less
moisture is needed the water pans may be removed or the
ventilation increased.
As a rule the eggs should be turned at least 3 and preferably 4 to
6 times daily. Four times daily, every 6 hours, day and night, is an
excellent plan. They should be tested preferably on the eighth or
ninth and again on the twentieth to twenty-second days, and all
infertile eggs and those having dead germs should be removed.
Cooling the eggs once or twice a day until they feel slightly cool to
the face may be of value in small incubators. Turning and cooling
should be discontinued about the twenty-third day, and the
incubator door should be darkened and kept closed until hatching is
completed. The poults may then be left in the incubators for about
24 hours or else put in the brooder and fed as soon as hatching is
completed and the poults thoroughly dried off. Poults held in the
incubator should be kept at about 95° F. and should have a rough
surface such as 1/4-inch-mesh hardware cloth to stand on. Keeping
the incubator dark helps to keep the poults quiet and tends to
prevent spraddle legs. There is no good reason for withholding feed
longer than 24 hours. If feed is withheld for a much longer period
when the poults are in the brooder, they may eat the litter.
Therefore, poults should be fed when they are put in the brooder
house.
Shipping day-old poults in specially built strawboard boxes has
been found to be satisfactory. The container is larger than that
ordinarily used for baby chicks, 60 poults commonly being placed in
each box.
RAISING POULTS
There are few turkey-raising problems so important as brooding
and rearing the poults, because the greatest losses in turkey raising
usually occur in the first few weeks of the birds' lives. Heavy
mortality among the poults may indicate that the breeding stock
used was low in vitality or was poorly managed, but it more often
indicates poor feeding or management of the poults. The importance
of keeping both the poults and the breeding turkeys on ground free
from infection and away from chickens cannot be overemphasized.
Improper brooding methods cause great losses, because turkey
poults are very susceptible to cold, dampness, overcrowding,
overheating, unsuitable feeds, and unsuitable litter, and they
succumb readily to attacks of diseases and parasites.
BROODING
The poults may be brooded naturally by turkey hens or artificially
by brooders. Brooding by turkey hens provides a never-failing source
of heat, allows the poults to be raised in small flocks, and permits
taking advantage of free-range conditions. Its disadvantages are
that the young turkeys may contract disease or become infected
with parasites from the hens and they may wander too far and be
killed by storms or predatory animals. Artificial brooding makes it
easier to maintain proper sanitation, keeps down costs, puts the
poults more directly under the control of the operator, and is more
adaptable to large-scale production.
NATURAL BROODING
Brooding poults by turkey hens
is not difficult, although several
details should receive careful
attention. As soon as the hatch is
completed and the poults begin to
run out from under the sitting hen,
transfer the hen and her brood to
a coop. A coop of simple design,
such as the A-shaped type (fig.
10), large enough to
accommodate a turkey hen
comfortably, and well built to
protect the brood from rains and Figure 10.—A well-built brood coop
natural enemies, is all that is which can be used either for setting a
required. It should be about 5 feet turkey hen or for raising a brood of
long, 3 feet wide, and 3 feet high, poults.
with a raised, rat-proof floor.
Provide good-sized screened
openings for ventilation in hot weather. These openings should be so
fixed that rain will not beat into the coop. Have a separate coop for
each hen, and if there are several broods, place the coops some
distance apart on well-drained soil where the grass is fairly short.
For the first day or so it is well to confine the poults in the coop
with the mother hen. Then make a small yard, using boards or wire
around the front of the coop, and allow the poults to run in and out
at will. However, they should not be allowed to run in long, wet
grass, and during heavy rains they should be confined to the coop.
Move the coop and yard to fresh ground every few days, clean it
once a week or more frequently, and disinfect it occasionally. When
the poults are about a week old the mother hen may be allowed to
roam with her brood, but care should be taken to see that the entire
brood returns in the evening and is protected at night from
predatory animals. Good results may be obtained by keeping the
mother hens confined and allowing the poults to range, but the
brood should be properly sheltered during rainstorms or damp
weather, which are likely to cause high mortality. The poults may be
kept with the mother hen for 3 months or more, but better results
are usually obtained by moving them to a separate rearing field on
clean ground when they are from 8 to 10 weeks old. If they have
shelter and will roost, they are better off without the hens after that
age. A turkey hen will raise up to 20 poults successfully, but more
than 20 can sometimes be placed with a hen in warm weather.
ARTIFICIAL BROODING
SANITATION
The brooder house should be thoroughly cleaned and the litter
changed once every 7 days, or oftener if disease occurs, regardless
of the type of litter used. This cleaning schedule must be adhered to
rigidly if blackhead, coccidiosis, and other diseases are to be
prevented.
Thoroughly clean and disinfect brooder houses and equipment
used for turkeys at the end of each brooding season or oftener if
disease occurs. First clean the house thoroughly and burn all litter
and droppings or haul them to land that is not to be used for poultry
and from which there will be no drainage into the turkey range.
Then scrub the floor and sides of the house, if it is of board
construction, with boiling hot lye solution (one-third of a can to a
pail of water) and allow them to dry out. Next, thoroughly spray the
entire inside of the building with a 3- or 4-percent solution of cresol
compound or any other approved disinfectant. Give the same
treatment once a year to the quarters occupied by the breeding
stock. The "fire gun", a large kerosene torch which involves the
blow-torch principle, has proved to be valuable in disinfecting, if it is
properly used and the house has been thoroughly cleaned.
LITTER
Sand or gravel is recommended for litter for the first 2 or 3
weeks; after that, clean wheat straw is advised as a means of saving
labor. Gravel or sand makes the best litter; but with large flocks,
using it for more than 2 or 3 weeks may require too much labor.
Straw or hay, if used during the first 2 weeks, may cause a stunting
of growth and a high mortality. Many growers have been successful
in using, as a substitute for litter, 1/2-inch wire mesh stretched tightly
a few inches above the floor of the house, but it requires much labor
to clean this, and it seems to have no advantage over clean litter. A
wire-floored sun porch makes a good substitute, for an outside yard
during the brooding period although, as previously stated, a clean
yard in grass is preferable.
EARLY DEVELOPMENT
The poults, when first hatched, are covered with soft down.
When they are about 10 days old, feathers begin to appear where
the wings join the body, and in about 3 weeks the tail feathers begin
to appear. From then on feather growth is rapid, and when the
poults are 2 months old they are well feathered. About the fifth
week fleshy protuberances called caruncles begin to appear, and by
the seventh week they begin to extend down the neck. The
appearance of caruncles in the poults is termed "shooting the red."
On the top of the head of both males and females a fleshy
protuberance develops into what is called the "dew bill" or "snood";
on males it is larger and more elastic than on females.
The sex of young turkeys can be distinguished by the appearance
of a tuft of hairs on the breast of males between 3 and 4 months
old. The tuft usually does not appear on the breasts of the females
until they are much older, and the hairs of the tuft are shorter and
finer than those on males. The hock joints on the males are much
broader and heavier than on the females. The sex of well-grown
Bronze turkey poults can be distinguished by examining the mature
breast feathers which appear at 12 to 14 weeks. Those of the males
are bronze black with no white, whereas the tip of those of the
females have a narrow white edge. Day-old poults may be sexed as
is done with baby chicks by examining that part of the sex organs
that can be seen at the vent.
MARKING
When large numbers of turkeys are raised it is advisable to adopt
some system of marking the poults that enables the grower to keep
a record of the age and breeding of the different broods, as this is of
assistance in selecting early hatched birds for breeding and
slaughter purposes. Such a system also makes it possible to
separate the poults out of special matings from the rest of the flock
or from neighboring flocks. The poults may be marked by punching
holes in the webs between the toes or slitting these webs. Different
webs may be punched or slit for different broods, and thus provide a
record of all turkeys raised.
Heavy, aluminum, clinch pigeon-wing bands are well adapted for
marking young turkeys. The bands can be applied in two ways:
According to the first, the band is first made round and
clinched, then slipped over the baby poult's toes and
flattened so that it will not come off but at the same time
will allow for some growth of the leg. When the poult is
about 4 weeks old the band is transferred to the wing by
unclinching and inserting it in a hole made in the middle of
the web between the first and second joints of the wing
and about one-fourth inch from the edge. The band is
again clinched and made round so that it is not easily
flattened and its lettering can be read easily. According to
the second method of application the band is put directly
into the wing at hatching time, a thin knife blade being
used to make the hole for the band, near the edge of the
web and midway between the joints of the wing. Turkey
poults, when good sized, may be tattooed on the wing for
identification. When the breeding turkeys are selected as
they approach maturity, heavy wing bands or heavy
permanent leg bands may be used if the birds were not
marked at an earlier age.
Parts by
STARTING MASH NO. 2
weight
Yellow corn (ground) 33
Wheat middlings or shorts 20
Wheat bran 10
Whole oats (pulverized) 10
Meat scrap (50- to 55-percent protein) 10
Alfalfa leaf meal 10
Fish meal (60-percent protein) 5
Cod-liver oil 1 1/ 2
1
Salt (fine, sifted) /2
Total (crude protein 19 percent; crude fiber 6 percent) 100
Starting mash No. 2 is advised for feeding when liquid skim milk
or buttermilk is kept before the poults at all times. Some water is
furnished, allowing one dish of water to several of milk. These
starting mashes are fed without scratch grain; but water, green feed,
and hard grit such as fine gravel, coarse sand, or commercial granite
grit should be supplied. The green feed should be chopped fine and
scattered on top of the mash in the feeders once or twice daily,
allowing all the poults will consume in about half an hour. Tender
alfalfa tops, onion tops, lettuce, and tender, short lawn clippings,
preferably those containing clover, are all good feeds. Tough green
feed should be avoided as it may cause impaction. Green feed as
picked by the birds from the yards is most desirable. In that case
hand feeding is not necessary. The mash in dry form should be kept
before the poults at all times, but only enough mash to last for a day
or two should be supplied at one time. About 1 inch of feeder space
per poult (including both sides of the feeders) is desirable. This
should be increased to 2 or 3 inches after about 2 or 3 weeks. Plans
for feeders are shown in figure 12.
Rations for growing the poults after the age of 6 to 8 weeks may
include mash and whole grain or liquid milk and whole grain. Many
turkeys are grown and fattened on grain supplemented with
whatever insects and green feed can be obtained from the range. A
better plan is to provide sufficient protein and minerals to give
normal growth. The minimum feeding advised is to allow each day
one liberal feeding of a 20-percent protein mash, or to furnish all the
milk the birds will drink with a feeding of whole grain. Either the
mash or the liquid milk should be used with liberal feedings of whole
grain for fattening in the fall.
Good growing mashes suitable for different conditions may be
made as follows:
Parts by
GROWING MASH NO. 1
weight
Yellow corn or barley (ground) 25
Oats or grain sorghum (ground) 25
Wheat middlings or shorts 20
Meat scrap (50- to 55-percent protein) 19
Wheat bran 10
Salt (fine, sifted) 1
Total (crude protein 19 to 21 percent) 100
Parts by
GROWING MASH NO. 2
weight
Yellow corn or barley (ground) 32
Soybean oil meal 26
Wheat middlings or shorts 15
Wheat bran 10
Oats or grain sorghum (ground) 10
Steamed bonemeal 4
Ground oystershell or limestone 2
Salt (fine, sifted) 1
Total (crude protein 191/2 percent) 100
Parts by
GROWING MASH NO. 3
weight
Yellow corn (ground) 35
Meat scrap (50- to 55-percent protein) 15
Wheat bran 10
Wheat middlings or shorts 10
Oats or barley (ground) 10
Alfalfa leaf meal 10
Dried milk 9
Salt (fine, sifted) 1
Total (crude protein 20 to 21 percent) 100
Parts by
GROWING MASH NO. 4
weight
Yellow corn (ground) 20
Wheat middlings (standard or brown) 15
Oats (finely ground) 15
Wheat bran 10
Alfalfa leaf meal 10
Yellow corn gluten meal 10
Dried milk 10
Meat scrap (50- to 55-percent protein) 5
Steamed bonemeal 2
Ground oystershell or limestone 2
Salt (fine, sifted) 1
Total (crude protein 20 percent; crude fiber 6 percent) 100
These growing mashes are all fed with scratch grains consisting
of such grains as corn, wheat, barley, and oats. Corn, wheat, or
barley may be used as the only scratch grain except with growing
mash No. 4, which should contain from 50 to 75 percent of oats. A
good grain mixture may be made of 40 parts of corn, 40 parts of
wheat, and 20 parts of oats. Mashes 1 and 2 are for flocks having
access to a good green range. In mash No. 2 soybean oil meal,
which has proved to be a good source of protein and is also good for
fattening, is substituted for meat scrap. Mash No. 3 is a more
complete ration and is advised for all conditions where the turkeys
do not have an abundance of growing green feed.
Other combinations of grains and byproducts may be used
successfully, the exact selection depending largely on availability and
cost of feeds. It is best to use at least two grains, and preferably
three or four, in the ration. Corn is the grain most commonly used in
feeding turkeys. Not more than 60 percent of the entire growing
ration should consist of oats or barley or a combination of the two.
Yellow corn tends to produce a deep-yellow skin color while white
corn, barley, and wheat produce turkeys with light-colored skins.
If the birds have all the milk they will drink along with whole
grains, they will consume enough milk to make good growth, if no
water is fed. A mixture of 30 percent of corn, 30 percent of oats, 20
percent of wheat, and 20 percent of barley is satisfactory; so is a
free choice of several grains. However, the whole-grain and liquid-
milk method works well only when the birds are on a good, green
range and is practical to use only when milk products are cheap.
Some loss from pendulous crops is to be expected when liquid milk
is consumed liberally and this is one of the chief objections to its
use. The milk receptacles should be set on a wire screen and
covered to protect them from the weather and from contamination
with droppings. Sanitation is especially important when milk is used.