The Impact of Copper in Different Parts of Malt

Whisky Pot Stills on New Make Spirit

Composition and Aroma
Barry Harrison*, Olivier Fagnen, Frances Jack and James Brosnan

ABSTRACT are in turn derived from the amino acids methionine and
cysteine, respectively4.
J. Inst. Brew. 117(1), 106–112, 2011
Copper has been shown previously to be involved in
In Scotch malt whisky production, the use of copper for the both reducing and increasing the levels of sulphur com-
construction of the pot stills for distillation is regarded as having pounds3,4,8–10. Using laboratory scale glass stills to simu-
an important effect on whisky aroma. During distillation in cop-
late malt whisky pot distillation, where copper salts were
per pot stills, the copper acts to reduce sulphury aromas in the
resultant spirit by reducing the levels of sulphur compounds added to model solutions, copper has been found to pro-
such as dimethyl trisulphide (DMTS). This work has shown that mote the formation of DMTS from methionine during dis-
the copper is more effective in this role in some parts of the pot tillation4. Other laboratory scale work has shown that the
stills than others. This information can be used to help distillers addition of copper wool to glass stills has the effect of
maintain or, indeed, to alter new make spirit aroma. It was also reducing the DMTS level in the distillate produced from
noted that in addition to DMTS, other, as yet unidentified, com- malt whisky wash8. Therefore, the role of copper on influ-
pounds make a significant contribution to sulphury aromas, so encing DMTS levels during distillation is not straightfor-
future research efforts should focus on identifying such com- ward. Depending on the circumstances, copper can either
pounds. cause an increase or a reduction in the level of this com-
Key words: copper, dimethyl trisulphide, pot stills, whisky. pound.
In different parts of the stills, copper is exposed to liq-
INTRODUCTION uids and vapours of various compositions and tempera-
tures. If copper was found to be better at removing sul-
The importance of copper in Scotch whisky production phur compounds in some parts of the stills than others,
has long been established6. In malt whisky production, the this information would assist distillers in troubleshooting
pot stills used for distillation are generally constructed new make spirit defects and could allow the manipulation
entirely from copper and the presence of this copper dur- of new make spirit aroma by altering the level of copper
ing distillation is regarded as having a positive effect on contact in the stills. This information would also be essen-
whisky aroma. This positive effect is attributed predomi- tial should the need arise to reduce copper in the distilla-
nantly to a reduction in the level of sulphur compounds1. tion system in order to minimise the environmental bur-
At high levels these compounds are generally considered den of copper in the pot ale and spent lees5. In addition, if
to possess unpleasant, and therefore undesirable, vegeta- copper is found to be particularly effective in some parts,
ble, rotten egg, gassy or rubbery aromas. However, at it may be possible to use knowledge of the characteristics
lower levels sulphur compounds may make a positive con- of the liquid or vapour with which it is interacting at such
tribution to the complexity of whisky aroma. points to help explain the mechanisms of the copper-sul-
One sulphur compound of particular interest in malt phur compound reactions. An increased understanding of
whisky production is dimethyl trisulphide (DMTS)2. The the exact mechanisms of the copper-sulphur compound
aroma of DMTS has been described as rotten vegetables. reactions would allow greater control of new make spirit
Threshold test analysis carried out at the Scotch Whisky quality and help maintain individual distillery character.
Research Institute showed that DMTS has a very low de- In this work, copper laboratory scale pot stills, designed
tection threshold (33 ppt in 20% ethanol), so though only to give more representative copper contact during distilla-
found at very low levels in whisky, can have an influence tion than previously obtained, and identical stainless steel
on aroma. In whisky production, DMTS is thought to be stills have been used to examine the importance of copper
formed from methanethiol and hydrogen sulphide, which in different parts of the stills in influencing both new
make spirit aroma and composition.

Scotch Whisky Research Institute, Riccarton, Edinburgh, EH14

4AP, UK. MATERIALS AND METHODS
* Corresponding author. E-mail: barry.harrison@swri.co.uk
Chemicals and solvents
Publication no. G-2011-0218-1104 Authentic samples of the following sulphur compounds
© 2011 The Institute of Brewing & Distilling were purchased: dimethyl sulphide (DMS), dimethyl di-

106 JOURNAL OF THE INSTITUTE OF BREWING

 Fig. 1. (A) Copper wash still. (B) Copper spirit still. Numbers 1–6 indicate the indi-
vidual sections for copper placement.

Table I. Sample codes for new make spirits produced with copper tion followed by spirit distillation) using full copper and
placed in various sections of the stills. full stainless steel stills. Subsequently, to determine the
Still Position of Position of most important sections for copper contact within the
construction stainless steel copper stills in terms of impact on new make spirit aroma and
Sample ID materiala placementb placementb
composition, copper was placed in different sections of
C C the stainless steel stills (labelled 1–6 in Fig. 1, sample
S S
S1 S 1
codes are listed in Table I). New make spirits produced
S2 S 2 using these various configurations were compared with
S3 S 3 those produced using full copper and full stainless steel
S4 S 4 stills.
S5 S 5
S6 S 6 Distillations
C1 C 1
C2 C 2 A conditioning distillation using 100% ethanol was
C3 C 3 carried out to clean the stills prior to each experimental
C4 C 4 distillation. All distillations were carried out using wash
C5 C 5
C6 C 6 from the same batch collected from a typical malt distill-
aC
ery. Wash was stored in a freezer at –20°C and left on the
= copper, S = stainless steel.
b See Fig. 1 for explanation of number codes. laboratory bench overnight to thaw prior to use. All distil-
lations were carried out at least in triplicate.
sulphide (DMDS), dimethyl trisulphide (DMTS), methyl- Wash stills were charged with 1.65 L of wash and 0.5
2-methyl-3-furyl disulphide (MMFDS), thianaphthene (all mL antifoam (Y-30 emulsion molecular biology reagent
from Sigma-Aldrich Company Ltd.), thiophene, S-methyl (Sigma-Aldrich Company Ltd.). A few Teflon boiling
thioacetate and diethyl disulphide (DEDS) (all from Alfa stones were added to each still. Isomantles were used to
Aesar). provide the same heating level to each distillation. Con-
Ethanol was purchased from McQuilkin & Co. Ultra denser temperature was maintained at 5°C for each distil-
High Quality (UHQ) water produced using an ELGA lation. Low wines (550 mL) were collected from each
LabWater Purelab UHQ 11 purification system (ELGA 1.65 L wash charge. A 500 mL aliquot of the low wines
LabWater Global Operations). was used for the spirit distillation.
Spirit stills were charged with 500 mL of low wines. A
Laboratory scale stills few Teflon boiling stones were added to each still. Iso-
Laboratory scale wash and spirit stills were manufac- mantles were used to provide the same heating level to
tured in both copper and stainless steel by Forsyths Ltd, each distillation. Condenser temperature was maintained
one of the main producers of distillation equipment for at 5°C for each distillation. Foreshots (25 mL), new make
the Scotch whisky industry. Figure 1 shows the lab scale spirit (100 mL) and feints (160 mL) were collected from
copper wash and spirit stills (the stainless steel stills were each 500 mL of low wines.
produced to the same specification). The capacities of the
wash still pots were 2 L and the spirit still pots 1 L. Sensory analysis
Initial studies were carried out comparing new make Quantitative Descriptive Analysis was used to assess
spirits produced from double distillations (wash distilla- the aroma of the new make spirits. Evaluations were

VOL. 117, NO. 1, 2011 107

carried out by the Scotch Whisky Research Institute’s mm id (Restek), which was held at 200°C, onto the GC
Sensory Panel, a trained and experienced group of asses- column.
sors with wide experience in the evaluation of whisky, The GC column used was a 30 m RTX-1, 0.32 mm id,
new make spirits and related samples. Tests were carried 5 µm film thickness (Restek). The GC oven temperature
out under controlled conditions, in individual booths with was held at 40°C for 1 min then increased at 10°C/ min up
data collected using Compusense C4 v4.0 (Compusense to 200°C and the final hold time was 5 min. The column
Inc.) sensory software. head pressure was controlled by the autosampler and was
Composites of the replicate samples were prepared, af- maintained at 11 psi.
ter an initial sensory screen to ensure that there were no The plasma burner temperature was 800°C. The air
unusual samples in any of the sets. These were then di- flow to the burner was 40 mL/ min and the hydrogen flow
luted to 20% abv using water and presented to panellists was 100 mL/ min.
in clear 120 mL nosing glasses. These glasses were cov- Quantification. DMS, DMDS, DMTS, MMFDS, thio-
ered using watch glasses and identified using three figure phene, thianaphthene and S-methyl thioacetate were
random codes. Assessments were based on the aroma of quantified using internal standard calibration by relating
the new make spirits, with panellists scoring intensities of sample response ratios with calibration lines prepared for
individual attributes using a line scale of 0–3. Sensory each compound. Calibrated compounds were reported as
comparison of the full copper and full stainless steel sys- ppb in 20% ethanol. Peaks detected in chromatograms for
tems used the following vocabulary: pungent, feinty, ce- which the identity of the compound was unknown were
real, green/grassy, floral, fresh fruit, solventy, soapy, reported as response ratios (peak area/internal standard
sweet, oily, sour, sulphury, meaty, stale and clean. This peak area). Unknowns are identified by their retention
vocabulary was selected from attributes found on the time in min.
Scotch Whisky Flavour Wheel7, based on previous knowl- Data analysis. Analysis of Variance (ANOVA) was
edge of the key characteristics of most importance in new carried out to determine which, if any, sensory or compo-
make spirit. Later sensory work, comparing copper place- sitional attributes showed significant differences between
ment in specific sections of the stills, focussed on the lev- samples (Unistat version 5.0 (Unistat Ltd.)). A p value of
els of sulphury and meaty aromas in the new make spirits. less than 0.05 was considered significant. To relate ana-
Average scores were calculated across the panel. lytical to sensory data, correlation coefficients were calcu-
lated to establish the degree of linear relationship between
Analysis of sulphur compounds the two variables.
Standard preparation. To calibrate the instrument re-
sponse, a dilution series of mixed calibration standards
was prepared for DMS, DMDS, DMTS, MMFDS, thio- RESULTS AND DISCUSSION
phene, thianaphthene and S-methyl thioacetate. Mixed Replacement of copper with stainless steel
calibration standard solutions were prepared in ethanol. A
standard solution of internal standard (DEDS) was also Sensory analysis. Sensory profiles of the new make
prepared in ethanol. spirits produced using the full copper and full stainless
In a 22 mL headspace vial, a 0.4 mL mixed calibration steel stills are shown in Fig. 2.
standard was adjusted to 20% ethanol using 1.6 mL UHQ This analysis showed the impact of using stainless steel
water. A 50 µL internal standard solution was added to stills in place of copper ones. The sensory attributes
this and the vials were capped immediately to minimise which most characterised the copper stills new make spirit
loss of volatiles. were cereal, feinty, pungent and clean. Using stainless
Sample preparation. In a 22 mL headspace vial, a steel resulted in the new make spirit being described as
0.55 mL sample was adjusted to 20% ethanol using 1.45 significantly less clean. This was attributed to, as might be
mL of UHQ water. A 50 µL internal standard solution was expected, a significant increase in the levels of sulphury
added to this and the vials were capped immediately to and meaty aromas when using stainless steel.
minimise loss of volatiles. Sulphur compounds. The new make spirits produced
Analytical instrumentation. A Perkin Elmer Turbo- using the full copper and stainless steel stills were com-
matrix 40 trap headspace autosampler was used in con- pared in terms of sulphur compound levels (Fig. 3). Fig-
junction with a Perkin Elmer Clarus 500 gas chromato- ure 3A shows the levels of known sulphur compounds. Of
graph (GC) and a Sievers 355 Sulphur Chemiluminescence these, only DMTS showed a statistically significant differ-
Detector. ence between the copper and stainless steel stills. This
The headspace autosampler oven was set to equilibrate compound was present at significantly higher levels in
each vial at 70°C for 12 min. The vial was then pressur- new make spirit produced using stainless steel stills.
ised to 30 psi using carrier gas (helium) introduced via the When the aroma detection threshold is considered (33 ppt
autosampler needle which was held at 110°C. The vial in 20% ethanol), DMTS was detected at levels likely to
was pressurised for 1 min, then for 1.5 min, the pressur- have a direct impact on new make spirit aroma. This sug-
ised contents of the vial headspace were passed onto the gested that DMTS was a contributor to the elevated levels
trap (Tenax TA), which had an initial temperature of of sulphury and meaty aromas in the stainless steel stills
35°C. This pressurisation and decay cycle was repeated new make spirit.
twice and subsequently the analytes on the trap were de- Several unknown sulphur compounds were also de-
sorbed by heating the trap to 280°C. The desorbed ana- tected in the new make spirits produced. The levels of the
lytes passed, via the transfer line (Hydroguard FS, 0.32 four most quantitatively important of these are shown in

108 JOURNAL OF THE INSTITUTE OF BREWING

 Fig. 2. Sensory profiles of new make spirits produced using copper and stainless steel stills. * Shows attributes present
at significantly different levels in the two samples (p values less than 0.05).

Fig. 4. Average sensory scores for sulphury (p < 0.0001) and

meaty (p < 0.0001) aromas in new make spirits.

Fig. 3B. It was found that three of these unknown com-

pounds were present at statistically significantly different
levels in the new make spirits produced from the copper
and stainless steel stills. Unknown 15.70 was found at a
higher level in the copper stills new make spirit whilst
unknown 10.25 and unknown 15.04 were found at higher
levels in the stainless steel stills new make spirit. Un-
known 10.25 and unknown 15.04 were therefore more
likely to have made a contribution to the sulphury and
meaty aromas which characterised the stainless steel stills
new make spirit.
Copper placement
Sensory analysis. Copper was separately placed in
individual sections 1–6 of the stainless steel stills. The
Fig. 3. (A) Levels of known sulphur compounds in new make
levels of sulphury and meaty aromas in each of the new
spirit produced from copper and stainless steel stills. (B) Levels make spirits produced are shown in Fig. 4. The level of
of unknown sulphur compounds in new make spirit produced sulphury aroma was particularly high when copper was
from copper and stainless steel stills (only unknowns with a re- placed only in the spirit still condenser (S6). Indeed, in
sponse ratio of 0.10 or over in at least one replicate are pre- this case the sulphury aroma level was similar to the full
sented). stainless steel still new make spirit. When copper was

VOL. 117, NO. 1, 2011 109

 placing copper in any single section could not replicate
the effect of full copper stills, the presence of copper in
any of sections 1–5 generally reduced the meaty aroma
level relative to the full stainless steel stills. However, this
reduction was only marginal for copper in section 1.
Sulphur compounds. The new make spirit samples
produced using stainless steel stills with copper placed
singly in the sections 1–6 were then analysed for sulphur
compounds. This would show in which, if any, sections of
the stills copper had most impact on the sulphur com-
pound levels in new make spirit. Here, only those com-
pounds that were present in full stainless steel stills new
make spirit at significantly higher levels than in full cop-
per stills new make spirit were considered, as these were
most likely to have contributed to sulphury and meaty
aromas (Fig. 5).
The impact of the presence of any copper during distil-
lation was to reduce the DMTS levels in new make spirit
(Fig. 5A). However, it was found that the positioning of
the copper in the stills had a large effect on the ability of
the copper to reduce the level of DMTS in the new make
spirit and placing copper in any single section was unable
to replicate the effect of the full copper stills. There was
found to be opposing trends in the wash and spirit stills.
In the wash still, the pot (S1) was the least effective at
reducing DMTS whilst the condenser (S3) was most ef-
fective. In the spirit still, the pot (S4) was most effective
and the condenser (S6) was least effective. The most ef-
fective sections for reducing the DMTS level were there-
fore the wash still condenser and the spirit still pot (S3
and S4).
The same pattern was found for unknown 15.04 as for
DMTS (Fig. 5B). Again the wash still condenser and
spirit still pot (S3 and S4) were most effective at remov-
ing this compound. The reason why DMTS and unknown
15.04 were more efficiently removed at these sections
may relate to the fact that the wash still condenser and
spirit still pot are areas where copper corrosion is known
to be relatively high in industrial stills. It would appear
therefore, that either sulphur compound-copper reactions
are particularly prevalent in these sections causing an in-
crease in corrosion, or that copper corroded by other
mechanisms is more active in terms of sulphur compound
removal. It has been shown previously that acidification
of sulphur compound model solutions was an important
contributing factor for the removal of these compounds by
copper during distillation8. So it may be that the environ-
ment at these particular sections makes them relatively
Fig. 5. Sulphur compound levels in new make spirit samples.
(A) DMTS (p < 0.0001), (B) unknown 15.04 (p < 0.0001), (C)
susceptible to acid corrosion, which in turn improves their
unknown 10.25 (p < 0.0001). ability to remove sulphur compounds. In this regard, the
usage of the stills may influence the ability of the copper
to remove sulphur compounds. When used for the first
placed in sections 1–5 of the stainless steel stills it was time, the laboratory scale copper stills produced a spirit
found that the presence of copper in any one of these sec- with a relatively sulphury and meaty aroma. Several re-
tions resulted in a new make spirit with higher levels of peat distillations were required prior to the start of this
sulphury aroma than the full copper stills, though not as experiment to reduce this aroma suggesting that some
high as that of S or S6 new make spirit. corrosion of the copper may have been required in order
For meaty aroma, the level of variance was found to be to activate it. The actual mechanism of sulphur compound
somewhat lower than for sulphury aroma when comparing removal, however, remains to be elucidated.
copper in sections 1–6 (Fig. 4). As with sulphury, S6 new Unknown 10.25 did not follow the same pattern as the
make spirit had a level of meaty aroma similar to that of other two compounds (Fig. 5C). Here, the difference in
the full stainless steel stills. Also, as with sulphury, whilst levels in new make spirits produced using the full copper

110 JOURNAL OF THE INSTITUTE OF BREWING

Table II. Correlation between sensory and sulphur compound data
(correlation coefficients calculated using data for C, S and S1-6 new
make spirits).
Compound Sulphury Meaty
DMTS 0.93 0.84
Unknown 10.25 0.02 0.13
Unknown 15.04 0.94 0.78

Fig. 6. Average sensory scores for sulphury (p < 0.0001) and

meaty (p < 0.0001) aromas in new make spirits.

and stainless steel stills was relatively small. Only having

copper in one section did not decrease the level of this
compound relative to the stainless steel stills and, other
than a slightly elevated level in S3 new make spirit, this
compound was found at a similar level irrespective of the Fig. 7. Sulphur compound levels in new make spirit samples.
section where copper was placed. This suggests that it (A) DMTS (p < 0.0001), (B) unknown 15.04 (p < 0.0001).
was the overall surface area of copper, not any specific
positioning, which was important for the removal of this
compound. Spirit still condenser
It was found that the level of DMTS and unknown
Correlation between sensory and sulphur 15.04 generally showed a good correlation with sulphury
compound data and meaty aromas. The high level of these compounds,
To determine how well sulphur compound data could DMTS and unknown 15.04, and high levels of sulphury
explain the sensory data, correlation coefficients between and meaty aromas in the new make spirit from the
sulphury and meaty aromas and analytical data for stainless still stills with copper only in the spirit still con-
DMTS, unknown 10.25 and unknown 15.04 were calcu- denser (S6) suggested that copper in this section was rela-
lated (Table II). tively unimportant for the control of sulphur compounds
Both DMTS and unknown 15.04 showed strong posi- and therefore sulphury and meaty aromas. However, re-
tive correlations with sulphury aroma, and to a slightly placing the copper in the spirit still condenser with
lesser extent, with meaty aroma. This suggests that these stainless steel in copper stills (C6) caused an increase in
compounds may have contributed to these aromas. Un- sulphury and meaty aromas relative to full copper stills
known 10.25 did not correlate well with the sulphury and (C) or stills with copper replaced in any of the other sec-
meaty aromas so this compound was less likely to have tions (C1-C5) (Fig. 6).
been a contributor to these aromas. The fact that DMTS This was despite the level of DMTS or unknown 15.04
and unknown 15.04 were found at a high level in new not being significantly higher in the C6 new make spirit
make spirit from stainless steel stills and stainless steel (Fig. 7). It seems that copper in the spirit still condenser
stills with a copper spirit condenser (S6) might help ex- controls sulphury and meaty aromas by an additional
plain why these new make spirits had a high level of sul- mechanism other than purely by removing sulphur com-
phury and meaty aromas. The new make spirits from S1- pounds and this additional mechanism is only effective
S5 had levels of DMTS higher than the full copper stills, when copper present in the stills prior to the spirit con-
but lower than S6 and the full stainless steel stills. This denser has acted to significantly reduce sulphur com-
correlates somewhat with the levels of sulphury and pound levels.
meaty aromas in these new make spirits, which were also The fact that replacement of copper with stainless steel
found to be between the two extremes. in each of sections 1–6 had very little impact on sulphur

VOL. 117, NO. 1, 2011 111

 would appear to be a good candidate for such a com-
pound, correlating strongly both with DMTS levels and
the sulphury and meaty aromas.

CONCLUSIONS
The presence of copper in pot stills was confirmed as
being important for the control of sulphury and meaty
aromas in new make spirit, and DMTS levels showed a
good correlation with these aromas. In these laboratory
scale distillations, copper was found to reduce the level of
this compound best when placed in the wash still
condenser or spirit still pot. In order to improve control of
this compound, the reasons why these areas of the stills
Fig. 8. Sulphury and meaty aroma levels in spiked and unspiked are more efficient than others at reducing DMTS need to
new make spirits. be elucidated. Copper in the spirit still condenser also
appeared to play a role in controlling sulphury and meaty
aromas, but the mechanism for this effect is, as yet, un-
compound levels and, other than in the case of C6, sul- clear. These results suggest that removing copper from
phury and meaty aromas suggests that replacement of any any of these sections in industrial scale stills is likely to
one of these sections in industrial scale stills could be have the most significant impact on new make spirit
achieved with little effect on new make spirit aroma. aroma. Additionally, it was noted that whilst DMTS made
However, the lower surface area to volume ratio in indus- a significant contribution to sulphury and meaty aromas,
trial scale stills means that there will be a relatively low other, as yet unknown, compounds make an important
level of copper contact overall in these stills, so replace- contribution and future research efforts should focus on
ment of a single section of copper with stainless steel is identifying such compounds.
likely to have a greater impact than in the laboratory scale
stills.
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112 JOURNAL OF THE INSTITUTE OF BREWING