An astonishingly intricate condition.

Thus, two years ago, a fundraising project was

project is being undertaken launched by Britain's National Trust 1 to pay for its conservation.
to restore a legendary It turned to textile conservator Zenzie Tinker to do the job.
theatrical dress, Angela Zenzie loves historical dress because of the link with the past.
Wintle explains. 'Working on costumes like the Beetlewing dress gives you
On December 28th, 1888, the a real sense of the people who wore them; you can see the
curtain rose on a daring new sweat stains and wear marks. But it's quite unusual to know
stage revival of Shakespeare's who actually wore a garment. That's the thing that makes the
Macbeth at the Lyceum Theatre Beetlewing project so special.'
in London. Topping the bill, Before any of Zenzie's conservation work can begin, she
playing Lady Macbeth, a main and her team will conduct a thorough investigation to help
character in the play, was Ellen determine what changes have been made to the dress and
Terry. She was the greatest and when. This will involve close examination of the dress for signs
most adored English actress of of damage and wear, and will be aided by comparing it with
the age. But she didn't achieve John Singer Sargent's painting and contemporary photographs.
this devotion through her acting Then Zenzie and the National Trust will decide how far back to
ability alone. She knew the power take the reconstruction, as some members feel that even the
of presentation and carefully
most recent changes are now part of the history of the dress.
cultivated her image. That first
night was no exception. When The first stages in the actual restoration will involve
she walked on stage for the delicate surface cleaning, using a small vacuum suction device.
famous banqueting scene, her Once the level of reconstruction has been determined, the
appearance drew a collective original crocheted z overdress will be stitched onto a dyed net
gasp from the audience. support before repairs begin. 'It's going to be extraordinarily
difficult, because the original cloth is quite stretchy, so we've
She was dressed in the most extraordinary clothes ever to deliberately chosen net because that has a certain amount of
have graced a British stage: a long, emerald and sea-green flexibility in it too,' says Zenzie. When the dress is displayed,
gown with tapering sleeves, surmounted by a velvet cloak, none of our work will be noticeable, but we'll retain all the
which glistened and sparkled eerily in the limelight. Yet this evidence on the reverse so that future experts will be able
was no mere stage trickery. The effect had been achieved to see exactly what we've done - and I'll produce a detailed
using hundreds of wings from beetles. The gown - later named report.'
the 'Beetlewing dress' - became one of the most iconic and
celebrated costumes of the age. Zenzie has estimated that the project, costing about
£30,000, will require more than 700 hours' work. 'It will be a
Terry was every bit as remarkable as her costumes. At huge undertaking and I don't think the Trust has ever spent
31, she became a leading lady at the Lyceum Theatre and for quite as much on a costume before,' she says. 'But this dress
two decades, she set about bringing culture to the masses. is unique. It's very unusual to see this level of workmanship
The productions she worked on were extravagant and daring. on a theatrical costume, and it must have looked spectacular
Shakespeare's plays were staged alongside blood-and-thunder
on stage.' If Terry was alive today, there's no doubt she would
melodramas and their texts were ruthlessly cut. Some people
be delighted. Unlike many other actresses, she valued her
were critical, but they missed the point. The innovations sold
costumes because she kept and reused them time and time
tickets and brought new audiences to see masterpieces that again. 'I'd like to think she'd see our contribution as part of the
they would never otherwise have seen.
ongoing history of the dress,' says Zenzie.
However, it was a painter who immortalised her. John Singer
Sargent had been so struck by Terry's appearance at that 1 A conservation organisation whose work includes the funding of projects
first performance that he asked her to model for him, and his designed to protect and preserve Britain's cultural heritage
famous portrait of 1889, now at the Tate Gallery in London, 2 Produced using wool and a spec1al
showed her with a glint in her eye, holding a crown over her needle with a hook at the end
flame-red hair. But while the painting remains almost as fresh
adapted from Sussex Life magazme
as the day it was painted, the years have not been so kind to
the dress. Its delicate structure, combined with the cumulative
effects of time, has meant it is now in an extremely fragile

@ UnitS
€) Answer Questions 1-10 below. Exam advice Multiple choice
Find the option which expresses the same idea;
Questions 1-6
don't just match words.
Choose the correct letter, A, B, C or D. If you have a question on the title of the passage,
read the subheading again, then skim each
1 What do you learn about Ellen Terry in the first
paragraph quickly to check the overall theme.
paragraph?
A Lady Macbeth was her first leading role.
B The Lyceum was her favourite theatre. Questions 7-10
C She tried hard to look good on stage.
D She wanted to look young for her audience. Do the following statements agree with the
views of the writer in the reading passage?
2 What is the writer's purpose in paragraph 2? Write
A to describe different responses to the
Beetlewing dress YES if the statement agrees with the
B to explain why the Beetlewing dress had views of the writer
such a big impact NO if the statement contradicts the
C to consider the suitability of the Beetlewing views of the writer
dress for the play NOT GIVEN if it is impossible to say what the
D to compare the look of the Beetlewing dress writer thinks about this
on and off the stage
7 The National Trust conducted useful research
3 According to the writer, the main effect of the
to assist Zenzie's plans for the dress.
Lyceum productions was to
8 There will be some discussion over the
A expose more people to Shakespeare's plays.
changes that Zenzie's team should make to the
B reduce the interest in other types of
dress.
production.
9 Zenzie's estimate for the timing of the project
C raise the cost of going to the theatre.
is realistic.
D encourage writers to produce more plays.
10 Ellen Terry's attitude towards her dresses was
4 In the fourth paragraph, what comparison does typical of her time.
the writer make between Sargent's portrait and
the Beetlewing dress?
A The dress has attracted more attention than Exam advice Yes I No I Not Given
the painting. Remember that the ideas in the passage may be
B The dress is worth more money than the worded differently in the questions.
painting. • Once you have found the right place in the
C The painting took longer to produce. passage, read it carefully before you decide on
D The painting looks newer. the answer.
5 Zenzie says the Beetlewing project is • Make sure your choice reflects t he writer's
particularly special because opinion or claim.
A the dress is very old.
B people know who wore the dress. 0 Look at Questions 11-14 on page 80. Underline the
C the dress was designed by someone famous. key ideas in the questions and the box of endings.
D there is evidence that the dress has been 0 Use key words in Questions 11-14 to find the
used. relevant sentences in the passage. Read these
6 Which of the following is the most suitable title carefully and match each question to the correct
for the passage? ending.
A A lesson from the past
B A ch~llenging task
C An unusual fashion show
D An unexpected discovery

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