Types of Sewing Machines
Types of Sewing Machines
The bobbin is wound with the thread that will make up the underside of a machine stitch.
Machines have either a top drop-in style of bobbin (like the one shown), or a front-loading
bobbin. The bobbin case holds the bobbin. It is usually not interchangeable between machines.
Use only bobbins recommended by the manufacturer for your particular model, or the machine
may not work properly.
Depending on the machine, a slide plate or hinged bobbin cover allows access to the bobbin.
This removable foot keeps fabric in place as you sew. Different feet are appropriate for different
sewing techniques or fabrics. For example, a zipper foot is used to install a zipper, and a roller or
nonstick foot for sewing leather and oilcloth smoothly.
Sewing-machine needles are removable and come in a variety of sizes. (For more on machine
needles, see our guide.) As its name implies, the needle clamp holds the needle in place.
This metal plate, sometimes called a needle plate, sits below the needle and presser foot. A small
opening in the plate allows the bobbin thread to come out and the needle to pass through to make
stitches. Most throat plates have small lines notched to the right of the presser foot; these serve as
guides for seam allowances and for sewing straight lines. The plate can be removed to clean
underneath.
This dial controls the tension on the top thread. With proper tension the top thread and bobbin
thread will join together in uniform stitches. If the tension is set too tight, the stitch will pucker
and break; if set too loose, the stitches will not hold. For machines with a manual dial, turn the
dial counterclockwise to decrease tension, and clockwise to increase tension. For machines with
computerized tension, which displays digitally, press the control to a higher setting to increase
tension and a lower setting to decrease it.
The top thread passes through this metal lever, which moves up and down in tandem with the
needle. Depending on the machine, the take-up lever may protrude from the front or be hidden
inside the plastic casing (as it is on the machine shown). Before placing fabric under the presser
foot, raise the lever completely (the needle will be at its highest point); this will keep the needle
from snagging the fabric.
On machines that have an external bobbin winder, the tension disk helps guide the thread
between the spool and the winder.
An empty bobbin is placed on this winder to be filled with thread from the spool. To ensure that
the thread winds evenly, always start with an empty bobbin.
From the spool pin, thread passes through these metal loops to help regulate the tension of the
thread.
Spool Pin (12)
This small dowel holds the thread. Some machines come with several spool pins for various
types of thread spools and for decorative or twin-needle sewing. Spool pins can be horizontal or
vertical, but horizontal ones provide smoother thread feed.
Flywheel (13)
This knob, also called a handwheel, raises and lowers the take-up lever. Always turn the
flywheel toward you (it will also turn toward you as you press the foot controller).
On older machines, a dial allows you to choose between different machine stitches. Newer
machines have buttons to select stitches (as shown).
Use this dial or lever to set the length of the stitches on manual and some electronic machines.
Stitches are measured differently, depending on the machine. The stitches may be measured per
inch, usually ranging from zero to 20 (by metric scale, from zero to four stitches per millimeter),
or simply numerically from zero to nine. For general sewing, use medium-length stitches; for
fine fabrics, shorter stitches; for heavier fabrics, or when basting or gathering, use long stitches.
On manual machines, as well as some electronic machines, this dial or lever controls the width of
decorative stitches, such as the zigzag stitch.
Pressing this button will reverse the direction of the stitches, allowing you to secure the thread at
the beginning and end of a seam. (Some manuals call this a backstitch button.)